Ultimate Tibet Journey | Saga Dawa Kailash Kora Trek, Guge Kingdom, Zhangzhung & Western Tibet Jeep Safari
The full moon of the Saga Dawa festival honors Buddha Sakyamuni’s birth, enlightenment and nirvana. Kailash is sacred in four of the world’s major religions: Buddhism, Hinduism, Bon and Jainism, and the source of the the Indus, Sutlej, Brahmaputra and Karnali Rivers.
Our once-in-a-lifetime journey to sacred Mount Kailash in western Tibet begins in Lhasa, the exotic capital of Tibet, where we explore this history-laden city with its ancient Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, the Potala Palace, dzongs (fortresses) and its bustling markets. We visit the resplendent Tashilhunpo Gompa in Shigatse and the Buddhist temples and many-tiered Gyantse Kumbum before embarking on our epic jeep safari across Tibet. We journey via the scenic southern route, experiencing much of the diverse far western Tibet, including rare wildlife and sand dunes, and driving along the Himalayan range en route, to reach Kailash and the ancient Kingdom of Guge.
The Kailash Kora, in the high plateaus of the Ngari region in western Tibet, is one of the most spectacular short treks in the Himalaya, crossing the Dolma La (5630m) to erase the sins of a lifetime. We arrive at Kailash in time for the Saga Dawa festival on the full moon of Saga Dawa, the fourth lunar month in the Tibetan calendar the most important festival in western Tibet. Tibetans from all over the country journey to sacred Mount Kailash for the ritual raising of the prayer-flag pole, which foretells the yearly fortunes of the country. Saga Dawa is a carnival of Buddhist monks and pilgrims, lively, traditional Tibetan music, Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims chanting mantras and lively impromtu markets. Camping beneath the north face of Mount Kailash, we cross the Dolma La and complete our kora trek with a myriad of Tibetan pilgrims, coming from as far away as eastern Tibet to acquire merit for all of humanity. After the Kailash kora, we continue west past the sacred Lake Manasarovar to Tirthapuri Gompa, the third most important pilgrimage site for Tibetan Buddhists.
The Kailash kora trek, on the high plateaus of the Ngari region in western Tibet, is one of the most spectacular short treks in the Himalaya, crossing the Dolma La (5600m) to erase the sins of a lifetime. We arrive at Kailash in time for the Saga Dawa festival during the full moon (of the fourth lunar month), the most important festival in western Tibet celebrating the birth and enlightenment of Lord Buddha. Tibetans from all over the country flock to sacred Mount Kailash for the ritual raising of the prayer-flag pole, which foretell the yearly fortunes of the country. Saga Dawa is a carnival of Tibetan music, chants and a market of Tibetan products, an event not to be missed. Camping beneath the north face of Kailash we complete the trek with a myriad of Tibetan pilgrims, coming from as far away as eastern Tibet to acquire merit for humanity.
Cleansed, we head to the 10th century Guge Kingdom’s Toling Gompa and Tsaparang, the remains of one of the oldest and most powerful civilizations in Tibet, which house some of the most significant murals and statues in Tibet, treasures of Buddhist art. Afterwards, a bit of exploration of the ancient Zhangzhung Kingdom or ‘Garuda Valley’, set in massive canyons along the Sutlej River, where the crumbling troglodyte capital of Kyunglung is all that remains of a Bon-po Kingdom that ruled over most of Tibet, Ladakh and the neighboring regions for over a millennium in the pre-Christian era.
Finally, we embark on the spectacular drive back to Nepal via the northern route, journeying through the high Tibetan Changtang plateau, a region of pristine lakes, sand dunes and populated with traditional Tibetan nomadic settlements and rare Tibetan wildlife. We spend our last night of camping by the turquoise Peiku Tso Lake near Shishapangma, and cross the Himalayan range and the Nepal Tibet border. To end of our journey, we enjoy two blissful nights at the semi-tropical Last Resort, with a sauna, plunge pool and a luxurious tented camps set under banana trees.
Don’t miss this special Kamzang Journeys Tibetan journey deep into Tibet, the ‘Land of the Snows’!
Trip
Ultimate Tibet Journey | Saga Dawa Kailash Kora Trek, Guge Kingdom, Zhangzhung & Western Tibet Jeep Safari
Days 0 + 00 – Early Arrival Kathmandu | Passport Collection
Day 1 – Meet Kathmandu
Day 2 – Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing
Day 3 – Fly Lhasa + Drive Tsetang (Samye)
Day 4 – Drive Lhasa | Visit Yumbulagang + Tradruk Temple (Yarlung Valley) + Samye Gompa
Day 5 – Lhasa | Visit Potala Palace + Jokhang Temple
Day 6 – Lhasa | Visit Sera + Drepung Monasteries
Day 7 – Lhasa | Day Trip Ganden Monastery | Ganden Kora
Day 8 – Drive Gyantse | Cross Khamba La 4790m, Karo La 5060m + Simi La 4348m
Day 9 – Drive Shalu Gompa + Shigatse | Visit Tashi Lunpo Monastery
Day 10 – Drive Saga | Cross Tha La 4050m, Tso La (Yulung La) 4520m + Gyatso La (Lhakpa La) 5230m
Day 11 – Drive Parayang
Day 12 – Drive Darchen (or Tarboche)
Day 13 – Trek Dira Puk
Day 14 – Trek Zutuk Puk | Cross Drolma La 5630m
Day 15 – Trek Tarboche
Day 16 – Saga Dawa Festival. Drive Tirthapuri
Day 17 – Tirthapuri | Day Trip Kyunglung (Zhangzhung Kingdom) + Gurugyam Gompa
Day 18 – Drive Tsaparang (Guge Kingdom) | Cross Mayum La 5225m
Day 19 – Visit Tsaparang + Toling Gompa (Guge Kingdom)
Day 20 – Drive Ali
Day 21 – Drive Rutok
Day 22 – Drive Gegye
Day 23 – Drive Gertse
Day 24 – Drive Tso Chen
Day 25 – Drive Saga
Day 26 – Drive Peiku Tso Lake
Day 27 – Drive Nepal Border (Rasuwa Ghadi) + Nuwakot Famous Farm
Day 28 – Drive Kathmandu
Day 29 – Trip Ends
Travel Advice Nepal + Tibet
+ Purchase travel insurance with helicopter evacuation!
+ Purchase trip cancellation + travel insurance
+ Travelers need 3 working days to get a Chinese Visa in Kathmandu! You’ll need to arrive 2 days before the trip starts, but don’t need to stay in Kathmandu. We can arrange a great trip to Chitwan at Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge or Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, as well as elsewhere.
Private Trips & Customized Journeys
We’d love to customize a private trip or extension for you according to your dates. We can customize your journey to include more days in the Kathmandu Valley, Chitwan or Bardia National Park, Pokhara, Bhutan, Tibet or elsewhere. Inquire for helicopter tours and travel options!
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
Chitwan National Park | Maruni Sanctuary Lodge
Amazing Nepal Heritage Tour | Kathmandu, Chitwan, Bandipur & Pokhara
Chitwan & Bardia Luxury Wildlife Safaris | Tiger Tops Lodges
Tiger Tops Wildlife Safaris | Chitwan Tharu Lodge + Bardia Karnali Lodge
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa.
Kamzang Journeys Products
Duffel bags, t-shirts, camp towels, buffs, handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes + bags, Himalayan textile pillow covers + more available in Kathmandu!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop
Lonely Planet Tibet | Cycling in Tibet
“Many of Nepal’s established trekking companies also run Tibet bike tours, notably the foreign-run Kamzang Journeys.”
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Itinerary
Ultimate Tibet Journey | Saga Dawa Kailash Kora Trek, Guge Kingdom, Zhangzhung & Western Tibet Jeep Safari
Early Arrival Kathmandu | Passports for Chinese Visas
Welcome to Nepal! Plan to arrive 2 days early in Kathmandu as we need your passports for Chinese visas two days before the trip starts (on Day 0). You’ll be met at the Tribuvhan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it. Rajendra +977 9841623270 +/or the Kathmandu Guest House driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden and recover from your jetlag. Kim’s mobile is +977 9803414745 (WhatsApp).
Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically clad backpackers.
Extra Days
We are happy to arrange trips to Bhaktapur, Bandipur, Nuwakot, Pokhara, Chitwan or Bardia National Park, Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort & Spa, Shivapuri Heights or bicycling, hiking or touring in the Kathmandu Valley on your free days. Or consider an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour!
Day 1 – Meet Kathmandu 1340m
The day is free for sightseeing in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley if you haven’t traveled to Chitwan, Bardia, Bandipur, Nuwakot, Pokhara or elsewhere! Shop, visit the spa, have a massage or relax Kathmandu Guest House gardens and cafes. We’ll have time for gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to, and in the evening will head out to New Orleans or Dechenling for dinner. (B)
Day 2 – Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing Tours
Another free day to explore Kathmandu, take excursions into the Kathmandu valley, have a massage, do some yoga, enjoy the cafes or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. In the evening will head out for dinner of wood-oven pizza, beers and wine at the Roadhouse Cafe.
ALTITUDE: We strongly advise taking 250 mg of Diamox before the flight up to Lhasa at 3700 meters. Take either 125 or 250 mg tonight and one tomorrow morning, and then continue for a day or so until we discuss further in Lhasa. (B)
Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square + Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guide, vehicles and guides as required. See Kathmandu Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings for more details.
We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning, and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating, when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.
Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gompas) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.
Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world renown artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman DhokaDurbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.
In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self created’ stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisvatti, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings, when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox to with colorful offerings for the goddess.
Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokhari’s, or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.
Day 3 – Fly Lhasa 3660m (Gonggar Airport) + Drive Tsedang 3570m (Samye Gompa)
We’ll leave the hotel mid-morning for our spectacular hour long China Air flight, which crosses the main Himalayan range, flying over the Himalayan 8000-meter peaks of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kanchenjunga, magnificent Himalayan panoramas! After landing at Gonggar Airport and meeting our Tibetan guide, we’ll drive the approximately 3 1/2 hours to Samye to visit the oldest monastery in Tibet, and spend the night in Tsedang, just before the Yarlung valley . En route we follow the sacred Brahmaputra River which flows from the sacred Mount Kailash, and the landscapes are sublime as we near the green Samye valley. We’ve had a big altitude gain so be sure to take it easy, drink lots of water and stay away from alcohol for the night. We recommend taking Diamox (125 mg 2x/day) to help acclimatize at this high altitude.
Once through at the police check post (lots of these in Tibet) and settled into our hotel in Tsedang, head out to explore this bustling and charming city, perhaps stopping at one of the traditional teahouses along the main avenue. (B)
Day 4 –Drive Lhasa 3655m | Visit Yarlung + Chongye Valley 3635m (Samye Gompa & Yumbulagang 3735m)
A short early morning drive out to the Yarlung Valley to visit the iconic and newly rebuilt Yumbulagang Castle, an incredible sight in the crisp morning mid-winter light. And cold! Hike up the switchbacking steps to the castle for wonderful views of the checkered valley surrounded by peaks. The Yarlung Valley is the cradle of Tibetan civilization, from where Tibet was unified in the 7th century, and Chongye the ancient burial grounds of Tibet’s ancient kings and its first capital. Yumbulagang, Tibet’s oldest building (perhaps 2000 years old) is known for its massive tower, but also houses an ancient chapel and is set in a lovely valley across from Tibet’s first cultivated fields. Tranduk Gompa, another one of Tibet’s most ancient, is on the way out to both of these sites.
Returning back, we’ll visit Samye Gompa, the oldest Buddhist monastery in Tibet, constructed in the late 8th century under the patronage of the great King Trisong Detsen, who sought to revitalize Buddhism after its decline from the time of King Songsten Gampo. The renown Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava) of the Nyingmapa school of Tibetan Buddhist was influential in the gompa’s construction but it was later taken over by the Sakya and Gelugpa schools. These days Tibetans of all traditions come to worship here.
Samye Gompa is famous for its sacred mandala design. The central temple symbolizes the legendary Mount Meru, the center of the universe, the physical location of which is believed to be Mount Kailash in Western Tibet. Samye is said to be modeled on Odantapuri monastery in Bihar, India, and has a strong connection to Lo Gekar in Mustang. The story of Lo Gekar: Samye Gompa, the oldest gompa in Tibet, was repeatedly destroyed by demons when it was being built. The head lama dreamed that Guru Rimpoche could help with the construction and invited him to the site. The great Guru Rimpoche found demons to be the problem, and suggested that they first build Lo Gekar. Guru Rimpoche killed the demons at the spot that Lo Gekar was soon to be constructed. The long mani wall just south of Dhakmar is said to have arisen from the intestines of the demon, and the red cliffs above Dhakmar the blood of the demon. After Lo Gekar was completed, Samye Gompa in eastern Tibet was also successfully built.
After lunch, it’s a three hour drive following the Bramaputra to Lhasa, where we check in to our Tibetan-owned Yak Hotel, situated near the Jokhang Temple and Barkor Square where the character of the old city is still quite Tibetan. Welcome to Lhasa, the ‘City of the Gods’ (or ‘Sunlight City’ due to the 3000 hours of sunshine yearly)!
Day 5 – Lhasa | Barkor Kora Walk
In the morning we’ll walk to the Jokhang Temple and Barkor Kora and do some photography koras with the Tibetan pilgrims from around Tibet and local Lhasa-pa in the intense late afternoon light, endlessly photogenic and always a very powerful experience. Another atmospheric time of day to walk the kora is before breakfast, with the chill still in the air and juniper incense from the burners wafting up into the air. There has been a lot of change in ‘old Lhasa’ in the past 20 years, including the removal of the Tibetan vendors that used to line the Barkor Square Kora, security gates to enter the Jokhang Barkor region, the installation of ‘modern’ old style street lamps, Chinese shops and pseudo Tibetan shops, mostly run by Chinese, but this part of Lhasa still retains some of its old world charm.
Over the following three days we visit some of the most important sites in and around Lhasa with our Tibetan guide. Late afternoons will be free for you to discover the endlessly fascinating bazaars, walk koras around the Jokhang with the myriad other pilgrims, or sit in the Barkor square, immersing yourself in the exoticism of Lhasa. There is also the option of additional tours to places such as the Tibetan Medical Center or Tsurphu Monastery (extra cost).
Some of our favorite restaurants and cafes are Dunya (right next door to the hotel), Makye Ame (along the Barkor Kora), Tibetan Family Kitchen (behind Jokhang, in a small alleyway), Old Lap Rang Tibetan Family Restaurant (last quarter of kora, inside), House of Shambala (back streets of Barkor), Ganglamedo (across the street from the hotel) & Western Cafe (just around the corner towards Barkor) although there are many and it’s fun to explore the Tibetan section of Lhasa. Namaste, Tashi 1 + Snowland also get good marks. Great street eats to be found near the mosque on the opposite side of the Jokhang Temple along the Barkor Kora. (B)
Day 6 – Lhasa | Drepung, Nechung + Jokhang Monasteries
Lhasa! We have three more days to wander the streets of the Tibetan section of Lhasa, and continue with our exploring of Lhasa’s Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and the iconic Potala Palace, once home to the Dalai Lamas. My favorite time of day to walk the kora is before breakfast, with the chill still in the air and incense from the burners wafting up into the air.
Over the following three days we visit some of the most important sites in and around Lhasa with our Tibetan guide. Late afternoons will be free for you to discover the endlessly fascinating bazaars, walk koras around the Jokhang with the myriad other pilgrims, or sit in the Barkor square, immersing yourself in the smoky exoticism and history of Lhasa, once a major stop on the ancient Silk Route.
Our sightseeing in Lhasa might be arranged slightly differently, depending on the availability of entrance tickets to the various monasteries and sights.See the Lhasa tab for full information on sightseeing, shopping, koras + eating in Lhasa! (B)
Lhasa Monasteries, Palaces + Sights
Jokhang Temple + Barkhor Square Kora
The holiest gompa (temple) in Tibet, revered by Tibetans of all sects though officially Gelugpa, shelters the sacred Jowo Sakyamuni statue and was recently partially destroyed by a massive fire (2018), though rebuilt. Jokhang’s architectural style is a mixture of Indian vihara, Tibetan and Nepalese design. Shuffle among the pilgrims, butter lamps permeating the air, and find gruesome Gods in hidden annexes. There is always a procession of devout Tibetans through the complex. After walking the holy inner circle, complete a circuit (kora) of the Barkhor, the market surrounding the Jokhang, for good karma. It is the best market to shop for all things Tibetan, and just about anything else you ever wanted.
“The Jokhang was founded during the reign of King Songtsen Gampo. According to tradition, the temple was built for the king’s two brides: Princess Wencheng of the Chinese Tang dynasty and Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal. Both are said to have brought important Buddhist statues and images from China and Nepal to Tibet, which were housed here, as part of their dowries. The oldest part of the temple was built in 652. Over the next 900 years, the temple was enlarged several times with the last renovation done in 1610 by the Fifth Dalai Lama. Following the death of Gampo, the image in Ramcho Lake temple was moved to the Jokhang temple for security reasons. When King Tresang Detsen ruled from 755 to 797, the Buddha image of the Jokhang temple was hidden, as the king’s minister was hostile to the spread of Buddhism in Tibet. During the late ninth and early tenth centuries, the Jokhang and Ramoche temples were said to have been used as stables. In 1049 Atisha, a renowned teacher of Buddhism from Bengal taught in Jokhang.
Around the 14th century, the temple was associated with the Vajrasana in India. In the 18th century the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing dynasty, following the Gorkha-Tibetan war in 1792, did not allow the Nepalese to visit this temple and it became an exclusive place of worship for the Tibetans. During the Chinese development of Lhasa, the Barkhor Square in front of the temple was encroached. During the Cultural Revolution, Red Guards attacked the Jokhang temple in 1966 and for a decade there was no worship. Renovation of the Jokhang took place from 1972 to 1980. In 2000, the Jokhang became a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an extension of the Potala Palace (a World Heritage Site since 1994). Many Nepalese artists have worked on the temple’s design and construction.” – Wikipedia
Drepung, Nechung + Sera Monasteries
Sera is one of the best preserved monasteries in Tibet, renown for its lively debating sessions in the courtyard each afternoon. Within its whitewashed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study. Drepung was founded in the 14th century and was once the largest gompa in the world with a population of around 10,000 monks. These days the figure has been reduced to several hundred, but there is still much of interest to see here, as the structure escaped relatively unscathed during the Cultural Revolution. Just below Drepung is the tantric monastery of Nechung, referred to as ‘ the Demon Fortress of the Oracle King’. This interesting monastery was the seat of the State Oracle until the Dalai Lama fled Tibet in 1959. The oracle became possessed by the protector deity Pehar and acted as a mouthpiece for the deity, often not having knowledge of what he said. The position of oracle came from the older Bon tradition.
Potala Palace
The magnificent white, black, red and gold Potala Palace dominates the skyline of Lhasa. It was the winter quarters of the Dalai Lama, housing jewel-encrusted gold and silver stupas of previous Dalai Lamas, numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.
“The residence of the Dalai Lama until the 14th Dalai Lama fled to India during the 1959 Tibetan uprising. It is now a museum and World Heritage Site. The palace is named after Mount Potalaka, the mythical abode of the bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. The 5th Dalai Lama started its construction in 1645 after one of his spiritual advisers, Konchog Chophel, pointed out that the site was ideal as a seat of government, situated as it is between Drepung and Sera monasteries and the old city of Lhasa. It may overlay the remains of an earlier fortress called the White or Red Palace on the site, built by Songtsen Gampo in 637. (The substantial structure has) copper poured into the foundations to help proof it against earthquakes. Thirteen storys of buildings, containing over 1000 rooms, 10,000 shrines and about 200,000 statues, soars 117m on top of Marpo Ri, the “Red Hill …). Tradition has it that the three main hills of Lhasa represent the “Three Protectors of Tibet”. Chokpori, just to the south of the Potala, is the soul-mountain of Vajrapani, Pongwari that of Manjusri, and Marpori, the hill on which the Potala stands, represents Avalokiteśvara.” – Wikipedia
Ramoche Gompa
Just north of the Barkhor, at the end of the road to the right of Dunya Restaurant and the Yak Hotel on the left of the busy shopping road.
“Ramoche is considered the sister temple of the Jokhang, completed about the same time. Tradition says that it was built originally to house the much revered Jowo Rinpoche statue, carried to Lhasa via Lhagang in a wooden cart, brought to Tibet when Princess Wencheng came to Lhasa. Unlike the Jokhang, Ramoche was originally built in Chinese style. During Mangsong Mangtsen’s reign (7th c), because of a threat that the Tang Chinese might invade, Princess Wencheng is said to have had the statue of Jowo Rinpoche hidden in a secret chamber in the Jokhang. Princess Jincheng, sometime after 710, had it placed in the central chapel of the Jokhang. It was replaced at Ramoche by a statue of Jowo Mikyo Dorje, a small bronze statue of the Buddha when he was eight years old, crafted by Vishvakarman, and brought to Lhasa by the Nepalese queen, Bhrikuti. It is said to have been badly damaged by the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution.
The temple was badly damaged during the Mongol invasions and there is no certainty that the statue that remained in 1959 was the original one. The original temple was destroyed by fire, and the present three-storied building was constructed in 1474. Soon after it became the Assembly Hall of the Gyuto Tratsang, or Upper Tantric College of Lhasa and was home to 500 monks. There was a close connection with Yerpa which provided summer quarters for the monks.” – Wikipedia
Norbulingka Summer Palace
Norbulingka is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, set in a quiet and relaxing garden which used to house the Dalai Lama’s pets. One particularly interesting mural inside depicts the history of Tibet and all the Dalai Lamas.
Ani Tsarkhung (Canggu) Nunnery
This lovely nunnery is tucked away between the Muslim Great Mosque and vegetable corner of the old city, on the furthest kora around the the Barkor. The yellow ani gompa, with an open courtyard, houses about 100 nuns. The Ani Tsarkhung Nunnery (tshamkhang means place for spiritual retreat) was built in the 7th c by Songsten Gampo, who used its meditation chamber, a spot which is now a sacred spot behind the nunnery. Since the 12th c, the monastery has been used mainly by Buddhist nuns, who support themselves through alms and manufacturing items such as clothing and printed texts. Its main assembly hall contains a beautiful image of Chenrezi, the multi-armed bodhisattva of Compassion.
“As a public nunnery, Canggu Nunnery focuses on passing on and promoting ceremonies and rituals of believing Goddess of Mercy and Buddha Tara. All the nuns are chanting by sutra recitation hall at 8:00 every morning. Then a professional ceremony lasts until about 4 pm … In addition to its unique religious dedication, Canggu Nunnery is popular among local residents also because it manages to raise funds by itself … The nunnery (also) runs a clinic. It employs experienced medical professionals as doctors and some of its nuns who know some medical knowledge as assistants. For years the clinic served the local residents, and because of their kindness, patience and consideration for the people, they are much trusted by the locals. In addition, the nunnery runs a small shop selling petty commodities that are both trustworthy quality and price.
The nunnery also runs a tea house looking on the street, and a small tea garden hiding inside. Everyday, many travelers who come to Barkhor Street to pray, burn joss sticks and stroll around would take a rest under the big umbrellas at the tea house, and have a taste of “Qia A Mao”, a sweet tea made of milk, sugar and black tea, Tibetan noodles or steamed stuffed buns made by the nuns.” – China Highlights
Phabonkha Monastery
About 10 km out of Lhasa, this 1300 year old monastery is one of the Lhasa region’s first buildings, and was founded by Songsten Gampo in the 7thc. “Although originally the site of his castle or fort, the Tibetan Annals have revealed that Pabonka was converted into a monastery, possibly under the reign of the second great Buddhist king of Tibet Trisong Detsen. Trisong Detsen, along with Guru Rinpoche and the first seven monks of the new Tibetan Empire, used to meditate at the hermitage and it became one of Tibet’s very earliest Buddhist monasteries, possibly even pre-dating Jokhang. The original nine-storied monastery was partially destroyed by King Langdharma in 841 during his campaign to destroy monastic Buddhism. It was rebuilt in the 11th century as a two-storied structure that housed 200 monks.” – Wikipedia
Muru Sarpa (New) Gompa
This smaller monastery is related to Maru Nyimpa Gompa, and is locate across the street from Gyan Gyen Hotel, with a printing press. There is anothermonastery just past this one called Gyume Gompa
Barkhor Kora Sights
Jampa (Maitreya) Monastery
A small atmospheric gompa in the middle of the Barkhor kora, access from the eastern side of the kora. There is a protector deities shrine where barley beer and chang are offered to the protector deities. Pilgrims circle the large prayer wheel just in front, and you may hear pilgrims chanting inside the prayer wheel room. The gompa is a bright yellow building just in back of the prayer wheel, with Muru Ngingpa Gompa just behind.
Muru Nyingpa (Old) Gompa
Muru Nyingba Gompa was the Lhasa seat of the former State Oracle, who had his main residence at Nechung Monastery. It is said that Emperor Songtsen Gampo built the first building here, and it is where the great Tibetan scholar, Thonmi Sambhota completed his work developing the Tibetan alphabet in the first half of the 7th c. The present building, first constructed during the reign of King Ralpacan in the 9th century, is built like an Indian vihara around a courtyard, with the lhakang to the north and the monks quarters on the three other sides. The gompa was destroyed during the persecution of Buddhism under Langdarma in the 9th c, but rebuilt by Atisha (980-1054) and became Gelugpa under the Third Dalai Lama, Sonam Gyatso (1543–1589). It became the Lhasa residence of the Nechung Oracle in the 17th c, the oracle who was possessed by Pehar in his trances.
Barkhor + Old Lhasa Back Alleys Walk
From the alley just before Gyan Gyen Hotel, take a left towards the Jokhang Temple and pass House of Shambala, a boutique hotel with a great little downstairs bar and a craft shop, on the right. Continue past several shops selling baskets with leather trim, wooden butter containers, Buddhist statues and dyed textiles amongst the other mostly Chinese shops and teashops. If you head to the right, you will eventually reach Makye Ame restaurant on the Barkhor Kora. Take the left alley back out of the kora to reach Dropenling craft shop, and then the Muslim section of the old city, filled with vegetable and food vendors, homemade noodles, meat shops, and the Great Mosque of Tibet. Continue past the mosque, and take the alley to the left to reach the atmospheric Ani Tsarkhung (Canggu) Nunnery and the wonderful Tibetan Village Artisans craft shop.
Re-enter the Barkhor Kora and have a snack and a glass of sweet tea at the Guangming Kamqung Sweet Tea House, up a set of diagonal steps, just before making the last turn back to the Jokhang Temple. Spend the late afternoon watching the Tibetan pilgrims doing their devotional prostrations in front of Tibet’s most sacred temple.
Heading away from the Jokhang Temple, head back into the bustle of Tibetan pilgrims, pass the shops selling Buddhist goods, and visit the inner Jampa and Muru Temples, inside the kora just past the front of the Jokhang. As you leave the Barkhor kora heading back to the hotel, pass through the large covered market (meats, butter, vegetables and local goods), and continues past a street with several shops selling horse gear, including a Tibetan man with real antique tackle, blankets and woven bags.
Old Town Lhasa | Tibetan + Muslim Quarters
The small alleys in the old Tibetan Quarter of Lhasa are endlessly fascinating, with an incredible variety of delicious street food near the mosque, small gompas tucked away inside the alleyways yersa gumbu on sale in many shops, fruit and vegetable markets, local shops, some boutique hotels and local handicraft shops and great photography opportunities! Don’t miss having a bowl of laphing, the spicy bean noodles with soy sauce and green onions. Delicious!
Lhasa Pilgrim Koras
Barkhor Kora
A cultural as well as religious kora around the Jokhang Temple, busy with Tibetan pilgrims with mani wheels and prayer beads at all times of the day. The Barkhor Kora is especially atmospheric during the misty mornings with incense burning in the massive incense burners, and in the evenings as the sun sets. You’ll walk with prostrating Tibetan pilgrims, collecting small donations from other Tibetans, and should stop into Meru Nyingpa Gompa at the center of the circuit. Plenty of shopping, cafes and restaurants around this fascinating kora, and Tibetans are generally dressed in their traditional chubas, striped aprons, adorned with turquoise, coral, amber, dzi beads and wearing their men’s and women’s Stetson hats. Endlessly photogenic. (20 min)
Potala Kora
This longer pilgrim’s kora does a look of the Potala palace, and was once, like the Barkhor Kora, lined with vendors selling handicrafts, snacks + other goods. The kora is busiest in the mornings, when you’ll often see Tibetans doing their dance exercises to music! The kora is filled with the same Tibetan pilgrims and Lhasa-pa in their traditional clothes and jewelry, and passes under the small lake at the north of the Potala. (45 min)
Lingkhor Kora
The longest of the pilgrim’s koras follows a route through Lhasa, starting from Jiangsu Lu and heading to Chagpo Ri (the Iron Mountain) and the Potala Palace. Again best in the mornings with the Tibetan pilgrims, to really experience the kora’s atmosphere. (2 ½ hrs)
Day 7 – Lhasa | Day Trip Ganden Monastery 4265m
We’ll set off early for a scenic 36-kilometer drive to the Gelugpa Ganden Monastery, on of the ‘three great’ Gelugpa monasteries in Tibet. Ganden is situated atop Wangbur Mountain in Tagtse County. Its full name is Ganden (meaning joyful, the Tibetan name for Tusita, the heaven where the bodhisattva Maitreya is said to reside) and Namgyal Ling (victorious temple). On the way back from Ganden we might have time to visit Dragyelpa Cave.
Ganden was founded by Je Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelugpa tradition, in 1409. It’s history is interesting so I will quote from Wikipedia: ‘The Ganden Tripa or ‘throne-holder of Ganden’ is the head of the Gelukpa school. Tsongkhapa’s preserved body was entombed there in a silver and gold encrusted tomb by his disciples in 1419. Being the farthest from Lhasa of the three university monasteries, Ganden traditionally had a smaller population with some 6,000 monks in the early 20th century (although Waddell reports an estimate of about 3,300 in the 1890s and there were, apparently only 2,000 in 1959. At this time there are about 170 monks.
Ganden Monastery consisted of two principal original colleges, Jangtse and Shartse, meaning North Peak and East Peak respectively. The three main sights in the Ganden Monastery are the Serdung, which contains the tomb of Tsongkhapa, the Tsokchen Assembly Hall and the Ngam Cho Khang the chapel where Tsongkhapa traditionally taught. The monastery houses artifacts which belonged to Tsongkhapa. It contained more than two dozen major chapels with large Buddha statues. The largest chapel was capable of seating 3,500 monks. Tenzin Gyatso, the present Dalai Lama (born 1935), took his final degree examination in Ganden in 1958 and he claims to feel a particularly close connection with Tsongkhapa.
Ganden was completely destroyed during the rebellion of 1959. In 1966 it was severely shelled by Red Guard artillery and monks then had to dismantle the remains. Most of Tsongkhapa’s mummified body was burned but his skull and some ashes were saved from the fire by Bomi Rinpoche, the monk who had been forced to carry the body to the fire. Re-building has been continuing since the 1980s and the “red-painted lhakang in the centre is the reconstruction of Ganden’s sanctum sanctorum containing Tsongkapa’s reliquary chorten called the Tongwa Donden, ‘Meaningful to Behold.’ – Wikipedia
The kora of Ganden, around the small Wangbur Mountain, takes about 45 minutes and is a great way to come into contact with Tibetan pilgrims, attired in their pilgrimage best. You might be lucky to witness a sky burial on a nearby hillside, a tradition rarely found anymore in Tibet; be respectful and keep a distance if you are fortunate enough to chance upon a sky burial. (B)
Day 7 – Drive to Gyantse 4025m
Leaving Lhasa, the ‘city of gods’ (or ‘sunlight city’ due to its 3000 hours of sunshine yearly), we switchback up the Khamba La pass (4795m) to overlook the turquoise Yamdrok Tso far below. Yamdrok Tso is one of the four holy lakes of Tibet, home to wrathful deities, and a spectacular site. Be ready to have your photo taken at the top of the pass with yaks, Tibetan mastiffs and goat by enterprising Tibetans.
After switchbacking down the pass, we continue to drive through the fertile plain of the Nyang River valley, a traditional vingette around every corner. Once in Gyantse, we’ll check into the Yeti Hotel, a great hotel with a wonderful restaurant and friendly staff, and head out for a walk around town to stretch our legs.
Gyantse, strategically located in the Nyang Chu valley, was once part of an ancient trade route from the Chumbi Valley, Yatung and Sikkim. From Gyantse, trade routes led south to Shigatse and also over the Karo La into Central Tibet. The Gyantse Dzong (fort), built in 1390, guarded the southern approaches to the Yarlung Tsangpo Valley and Lhasa, and the town was surrounded by a long, protective wall 3 kilometers in length. Part of this wall still survives and is a dramatic backdrop for photos. Gyantse was once the third largest city in Tibet but was overtaken by Younghusband and the British in 1904. During the fierce battle, Tibetan forces fought the British for most of two months with dire consequences for both sides. (See ‘Younghusband’ by Patrick French).
We will visit the 15th century Palkor Chode Monastery and the magnificent Kumbum, translated as ‘100,000 images’, the largest chorten in Tibet. Kumbum was commissioned by a Gyantse prince in 1427 and was an important center of the Sakya school. It still contains 77 chapels within its six floors and is illustrated with over 10,000 murals, many still intact and exhibiting a strong Nepali influence, the last of their kind to be found in Tibet.
‘The town of Gyantse was nearly destroyed by flooding in 1954, and after rioting in 1959, local industries were dismantled and artisans fled while others were placed in workcamps. Some 400 monks and laypeople were imprisoned in the monastery. During the Cultural Revolution the fort, the monastery and Kumbum were ransacked. Precious objects were destroyed or sent out of Tibet. Fortunately, the chorten was spared. The main building of the Pelkor Chode or Palcho Monastery and the Kumbum have been largely restored but the dzong or fort is still largely in ruins but there is an Anti-British Imperialism Museum there which gives the Chinese version of the 1904 British invasion.’ – Wikipedia.
Day 8 – Drive to Shigatse 3850m
We will spend the morning visiting the gompa complex at Gyantse and hiking up to Gyantse Fort, and then head to Shigatse mid-day. It’s a short but beautiful drive through flat countryside, surrounded by snow peaks, to Shigatse, previously known as Samdruptse. Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet and is home to perhaps the best preserved but most controversial monastery in Tibet, Tashilhunpo. This Gelugpa gompa, administred by the Panchen Lama, is one of the largest functioning monasteries in Tibet and there is much to explore within its surrounding walls.
‘In the 19th century, the ‘Tashi’ or Panchen Lama had temporal power over Tashilhunpo Monastery and three small districts, though not over the town of Shigatse itself, which was administered by two Dzongpön (prefects) appointed from Lhasa. Before military conflict between the PRC’s People’s Liberation Army and the Central Tibetan Administration, the Tibetan territory was divided into 53 prefecture districts called Dzongs. There were two Dzongpöns for every Dzong—a lama (Tse-dung) and a layman. They were entrusted with both civil and military powers and are equal in all respects, though subordinate to the generals and the Chinese Amban in military matters. However, there were only one or two Ambans representing the Chinese emperor residing in Lhasa, directing a little garrison, and their power installed since 1728, progressively declined to end-up as observer at the eve of their expulsion in 1912 by the 13th Dalai Lama. In 1952, shortly after the PRC sent forces to the region, Shigatse had a population of perhaps 12,000 people, making it the second largest city in Tibet.’ – Wikipedia
We will take a few hours for a visit in the late afternoon or early morning. We stay at the Manasarovar Hotel in Shigatse, and head out for a good dinner and Lhasa beers in the evening.
Day 9 – Drive Saga 4600m
It will be a long, wonderful day of jeeping through the high plains of Tibet, soft, beautiful and photogenic. Just after arriving in the dusty truck stop of Lhatse, we’ll cross the Brahmaputra River, which originates from Kailash. The new roads are much better than they were, all paved, and our drive to Saga past lovely Tibetan villages where the spring planting will be in full force, is a scenic one. Saga is a somewhat industrial town so we’ll set up camp on the outskirts in a green meadow.
Day 10 – Drive Parayang 4750m
From Saga, we drive another 255 km west, shouting ‘Ki ki so so, Lha gyalo’ (roughly translated ‘May the gods be victorious!’) as we crest the passes marked with prayer flags and cairns; the first pass is the Laplung La (4565m) after which we pass through open grasslands of grazing yaks to reach Drongpa Tradung where we’ll probably stop for lunch. At Tradung we’ll have time to visit the old Sakya monastery built by Songsten Gampo up on a small hill, from where we’ll be treated to vast, green vistas across the plateau. The panoramas are some of the most beautiful on our journey, with the high mountains bordering Nepal on our right, and pebbly streams, small lakes, small Tibetan villages and soft hills surrounding us. We traverse this amazing Tibetan landscape, crossing the Soge La, and the landscape gently transforms to a plateau of high, rolling sand dunes. There’s time to climb up to the wind-sculpted ridges and gaze over a bordering lake below a panorama of Himalayan peaks. Soon after the sand dunes, in a marshy region, we may spot the rare, migratory Black-necked cranes as they summer in Tibet.
The kids will be out at the camp sight to welcome us to our sand dunes campsite at Parayang, as will the village dogs! This is a wonderful spot to watch sunset and roll down the soft, dun-colored dunes with the village kids. Parayang is a small village of traditional mud-brick houses, small Tibetan tea-houses and several chortens and mani-walls; have a wander through the village!
Day 11 – Drive to Darchen 4650m
Leaving lovely Parayang, we have an easy drive over the Mayum La and past Gunggyu Tso (lake) where we’ll be likely to spot more Tibetan wildlife. Over a small cairn-topped pass and we spot sacred Lake Manasarovar, from which the snowy Gurla Mandata (7694m), the highest peak in Western Tibet, rises to the south. Tibetans call this peak Mapham Yumtsho, ‘the unconquerable turquoise lake’. It is the source (nearly) of four of South Asia’s greatest rivers which flow in four directions towards the sea. These are: the Senge Khabab (‘river from the lion’s mouth’) to the north, the Tamchok Khabab (‘river from the horse’s mouth’) to the east, the Mapcha Khabab (‘the river from the peacock’s mouth’) to the south and the Langchen Khabab (‘the river from the elephant’s mouth) to the west. Translated into western names, it’s the Indus, the Tsangpo (Brahmaputra), the Karnali and the Sutlej respectively. Just to the west is and it’s nemesis, Raksas Tal, the ‘Demon Lake’ . Lake Manasarovar is the second most sacred pilgrimage spot for Hindus, and those on pilgrimage will submerge themselves in this sacred lake and bring some in a plastic bottle back home with them. The clear lake is full of migratory birds, although quite swampy near the fly-infested shores. But sublime all the less! There is a sacred ‘kora’ around the lake, which takes Westerners about six days, Tibetans more like three. There are several gompas en route, including Chiu (Little Bird) Gompa.
We are headed for Darchen, the dusty village near Tarboche and the first stop before our ‘kora’ or circumambulation of Kailash. We’ll have to spend the night in a hotel in Darchen, Chinese government regulations. Gary McCue aptly describes it in the second addition of his ‘Trekking in Tibet’: ‘Darchen has been … transformed into a pit of garage and broken glass, barking dogs, loud Chinese disco music and revving truck engines’. Still, as a pilgrimage destination there’s plenty of people watching, and these days quite a bit of shopping as well …
North of Darchen a paved, fairly new jeep road leads to Gyangdrag Gompa and afterwards to Selung (Serlung) Gompa, Kailash’s first monastery.
Day 12 – Trek to Dira-Puk 5160m
We meet our team of yaks and the local ‘drokpa’ yak drivers who will escort us around the kora, yak bells ringing. From Tarboche and Chuku Gompa, we follow the Lha Chu river through a serene, meadow-lined valley, hopping over small streams, the west face of Mount Kailash towering above us. The river enters a narrow canyon with high, steep cliffs and spectacular waterfalls. Chuku Gompa is perched above the valley at 4780m. Pilgrims will be doing koras and rubbing parts of their body against worn areas of rock, shiny with butter, to start the kora off in an auspicious manner. Inside is a revered marble statue called Chuku Opame and a silver-inlaid conch shell with silver wings which was said to have flown here from afar, and a ‘trulku’, or reincarnated lama, resides in a cozy (but dung-smoke filled) room in the gompa. A blessing by the local lama is an extremely good start for the kora.
To the west of the Tarboche is the Chorten Kangnyi, and auspicious archway previously decorated with yak and sheep heads. Perched above Tarboche is the Sky Burial Site of 84 Mahasiddhas, a spot revered for once having been the burial site for lamas, and containing numerous sacred springs, cairns, and power places. Pilgrims lie down on a flat rock strewn with old clothes, bones, tsampa bowls and personal belongings and visualize their death.
Midway along the trek at the second prostration point the secret entranceway to the Inner Kora is visible to the right. One must complete 13 koras to enter inside. Continuing up the valley, the north face of Kailash comes into view just as we reach the 13th century monastery at Dira-puk. There are two routes to the camp from the convergence of the valleys, and we have the choice of crossing a small moss bridge and following a small path to the gompa, which has awesome views of the north face of Kailash, or continuing on along the main trail. We camp opposite the river from the gompa, immediately below the massive north face of Kailash. Sunset on the north face of Kailash is magnificent. (6 hrs)
Day 13 – Trek to Zutuk Puk Camp (over the Drolma La)
We now leave the Lha Chu Valley just as the sunrise turns the snow peaks gold and pink, and enter the Drolma Chu Valley, heading up towards the 5,630 meter Drolma La. Although the altitude makes the trekking difficult, the masses of pilgrims performing their acts of devotion along the way are continuously intriguing. Those extremely devout pilgrims prostrate themselves the entire way around Kailash, kneeling down and extending their bodies and hands in front of them in prayer (and marking the beginning of the next prostration). The trail is lined with sacred sites: butter, coin & flag-covered rocks, rocks with footprints of saints, rocks to climb over, under or through, hillsides of discarded clothes as offerings and other significant sites. It’s a tough climb to the prayer-flag festooned summit, but it’s all worth if from the top as juniper incense burns and thousands of colorful prayer flags send prayers out into the surrounding valleys. Below us lies the Lake of Compassion, Thukpe Dzingbu, one of the highest lakes in the world. We descend steeply, sometimes over snow but mostly on switchbacking trails, eventually reaching a group of teahouses on the Lham Chu (river) where we will stop for lunch on the grassy river banks.
We have another three hours of trekking along the grassy riverside with the Tibetan pilgrims, some prostrating, to reach our green campsite right on the river, a lovely spot. Have a wash in the icy stream and enjoy the afternoon! (8 hrs)
Day 14 – Trek to Tarboche
An hour of bright early morning trekking along a boulder-filled river brings us to Zutul-puk Gompa (4790m), with Milarepa’s meditation cave and imprints of his hand, food and head prints. A monk with a Polaroid sometimes takes photos of the Tibetan pilgrims in all their finery for 5 RMB. Afterwards, it’s an easy walk along some impressive gorges and around many mani stones and mani walls back to the Barka plains and dusty Darchen where our jeeps await us. The kora is finished – we’ve erased our sins, endured extremely cold nights and mornings, crossed one of the highest passes in the world, met countless fellow pilgrims, sent prayers of peace out to the world. Congratulations!
We’ll spend the night at Tarboche by the prayer flag in preparation for the next day’s festivities, but it will be full of action and color today, too! And tourists. (4 hrs)
Day 15 – Tarboche. Pre-festival Day
We’ll spend the day around Tarboche and Darchen with the pilgrims, with time to take photos at Chuku Gompa with all the pilgrims making their rounds (koras). There may be horseracing, and there will certainly be shoping. And we will have another day with Mount Kailash, the sacred mountain …
If people want to visit the sacred Lake Manasarovar, we can discuss options with the jeep drivers.
Day 16 – Tarboche. Saga Dawa. Drive to Tirthapuri 4550m
NOTE: We plan for Saga Dawa AFTER the kora to save on the pre-Saga Dawa insanity so will stay the morning of Saga Dawa at Tarboche and then drive to Tirthapuri afterwards.
This morning we gather with the hundreds of Tibetan pilgrims from the far reaches of Tibet, all having endured the long journey to Kailash by over-loaded truck, some by yak caravan, and the extremely devout few by full-body prostrations across the continent, some from as far away as Kham or Amdo. It is said to be a two year round trip by prostration from the eastern parts of Tibet to Kailash and back …
The sacred prayer-pole will be ritually raised as it is every year, and the direction the pole tilts, if it tilts at all, will foretell the future of Tibet for the coming year. It is a very significant ceremony, and monks, lamas and Rimpoches will preside over the rituals. During the festival, there is plenty of shopping as a good Tibetan never misses an opportunity to make a sale, and products from all over Tibet are available. And after the ceremony, devout Tibetans will gather for a piece of wooden prayer-pole, a ‘sacred relic’. This is a day for photos, so make sure you have plenty of memory cards and your battery fully charged. Bring small change for ‘festival street-food’ and prayer flags as well!
Good karma acquired all around, we pack up camp and drive along the beautiful bluffs, past Lake Manasarovar and the sacred peak of the Bonpos just to the west of Kailash, to the third most important site on our pilgrimage. Tirthapuri Gompa is spectacularly situated along the Sutej River. This gompa is revered as one of the sacred sites of Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava) and his consort Yeshe Tsogyel, who magically transported themselves through much of the Tibetan Buddhist world in the 8th century. The gompa acquired its name in the 11th century from the great Indian Buddhist scholar, Atisha. It is affiliated with Hemis Gompa in Ladakh, and was destroyed during Cultural Revolution, and subsequently rebuilt about 30 years ago. The footprints of Guru Rimpoche and Yeshe Tsogyel are displayed on a slab of granite within the dimly-lit gompa. Tiny, opaque calcium balls, believed to have powerful medicinal value, can be found along the plateau, and jet-black ravens and rainbows adorn this magical spot. There is a hot-springs ‘complex’ where you can wash off the grime of Tibet for a small fee just minutes from our campsite under the gompa complex.
Take an hour at sunset to walk the kora of Tirthapuri if you have energy left from the day …
Day 17 – Kyunglung (day trip)
Leaving Tirthapuri, we head west to the spectacularly-set Bon-po Gurugyam Gompa, under fluted canyon walls next to the Sutlej river. Built into the cliffs, an ancient cave complex with tunnels, balconies, prayer flags and ancient artifacts mark the spot that Guru Rimpoche and the Bon-po masters meditated over a millennium ago, now used by the resident Rimpoche Lama. This is one of the most important Bongo monasteries in far west Tibet, the present gompa re-built after the Cultural Revolution, and a beautiful spot.
Continuing east, the magnificent Sutlej River is our guide as we follow the canyons to Kyunglung village and then the ruins of old Kyunglung, the ancient capital of the Zhangzhung Kingdom, which ruled over most of Tibet and neighboring Ladakh from the pre-Christian era onwards, a fabled troglodyte community. Set amidst spectacular red-sandstone canyons, these are relatively untouched ruins of one of Tibet’s earliest cities, little visited by tourist of any nationality. The name means ‘Garuda Valley’, and the dzong on top is called Ngulkhar, which translates as ‘Silver Castle of the Kings’; there is much mythology associated with the region, and the population was said to be between two and three thousand. Old paths lead up to crumbling cave-home with wooden doors, tunnels, old stone walls and mani walls. It’s a wonderful day of exploring!
To get there, we cross the Sutlej near a large complex of hot springs and limestone deposits, and hike for about 20 minutes up to the ancient city.
Day 18 – Drive to Tsaparang
It’s a 300 km drive through wild country from Parayang towards Lake Manasarovar, the second most important pilgrimage sight for Tibetan Buddhists, formed in the mind of Brahma and which Tibetans refer to as Maphan Tso, ‘the unconquerable lake’. We cross wide plains, shallow rivers and pass by a few local truck stops with makeshift teahouses and then climb the Mayum La, with magnificent mountain panoramas. Soon afterwards we’ll pass the stunning Mayum Tso (lake). The scenery along this section is some of the most beautiful of the entire journey, and a distant storm drifting in back of Tibetans, horses and sheep is a surreal sight.
Continuing further west, towards the magnificent Nanda Devi in Uttaranchal, India, we head to the Guge Kingdom. The landscapes of western Tibet are breathtaking, sublime, and we’ll have plenty of opportunities to stop for photos. Continuing through historic Dongpo, Dawa and Mangang, we eventually reach the village of Tsaparang in the heart of the ancient the Guge Kingdom, where we stay at a charming local home stay for the night.
Day 19 – Visit Toling & Tsaparang
We have the day to visit 11th century Toling Gompa, the most important monastery in western Tibet in ancient times, and Tsaparang with its royal chapels, the ancient capital of the Guge Kingdom, both now resting silently in far Western Tibet, a fairytale scene of caves and passageways honeycombed into a ridge of ancient deposits. Guge was founded almost a thousand years ago by one of three sons of Lang Darma, the anti-Buddhist king. With its cave dwellings, crumbling Tibetan Buddhist gompas and stupas, exquisite murals, sculptures and stone inscriptions, the Guge Kingdom is a museum of the history of Western Tibet. White Palace, Red Palace, Yamantaka Chapel, Tara Chapel and Mandala Chapel are the major attractions, all historically linked with the Shakyamuni Buddha, King Songtsen Gampo and other historic figures.
EXPLORATORY NORTHERN ROUTE
Day 20 – Drive Ali
We embark on a 6-day exploratory (for us) route via Ali (the gateway to Kashgar) to see the high lakes, grazing plateaus and wildlife of the northern route to Kailash. This is a route I’ve always wanted to do, but never had time to. Now, with the new roads throughout most of Tibet, it’s possible to fit this in. We’ll drive through the Tibetan Changthang plateau, a mythical high plateau of kiang, wild yaks, Tibetan gazelle, chiru (from which the illegal ‘shatoosh’ comes), hare and wolves roam.
We will camp at night near (but mostly not in) the below villages …
Day 21 – Drive Rutok
Day 22 – Drive Gegye
Day 23 – Drive Gertse
Day 24 – Drive Tso Chen
Day 25 – Drive Saga
And finally we’re back where we started, after a glorious drive along the northern route …
Day 26 – Drive Peiko Tso Camp
Back in known territory, our beautiful drive continues as we cut the corner, heading south towards the border of Nepal, and camping near a beautiful turqoise lake with Shishapangma looming above us.
Day 27 – Drive Zangmu 2300m
Our last day of driving in Tibet, we spend all of the day on a good road driving through stunning Tibetan landscapes with Himalayan vistas throughout the drive. After breakfast we’re back on the Friendship Highway heading south towards the border of Nepal,
The first pass we crest is the Lalung La, 5124m and after a short scenic drop between we reach the Tong La 5200m (although often called other names). Here we stop to admire a Himalayan panorama that includes Shishapangma and Khambachen on the west (right) and a hard to recognize Gauri Shankar (Chomo Tseringma for Tibetans and Sherpas). We are standing on the geographic divide, although the main Himalayan mountain divide is further south.
The descent to Nyalam at 3650 meters takes a couple of hours, with Zangmu, at 2250 meters, another 1 1/2 hours further south. Along the way we’ll pass both newly built and old white-washed Tibetan villages, and sometimes herders herding their flocks of sheep and goats or their yaks. This is one of the most impressive gorge roads in the world, a winding road through a green rainforest with waterfalls streaming over the road at points. It’s a relief to reach the winding streets of Zangmu, a typical border town but perched precariously on a steep hill, making the most of its meager land allotment. We will stay at Zhangmu at the Zhangmu Hotel, the best in town …
Day 28 – Drive Last Resort
From Zangmu, it’s a short drive to the Friendship Bridge which spans the Bhote Kosi River and marks the Chinese – Nepalese border. We say goodbye to our Tibetan guide and driver and walk to Nepalese Immigration Control in Kodari where we will be met by our Nepalese staff and driven to the Last Resort, just half an hour south of the border past Tatopani (hotsprings).
The Last Resort is a wonderful place to spend a night after the rigors of Tibet, truly tropical after the hearsh Tibetan climate. It’s a lovely Nepali-style tented resort with a sauna, plunge pool, massage room, big, leafy plans shading the canvas tents and an outdoor, bamboo dining area perfect for lively happy hours! Beers in the bamboo bar is the perfect way to wind down from the rigors of Tibet …
Day 29 – Drive Kathmandu
The 4-5 hour drive to Kathmandu is good look at the rural, middle hills of Nepal. We’ll be ready for our clean rooms, a change of clothes and a good, long, hot shower back at the Kathmandu Guest House. Later in the evening we’ll head for dinner and celebrate our wonderful journey through Tibet …
Day 30 – Depart
Transfer to TIA International Airport for your international flight. We hope you had a wonderful trip into the heart of Tibet, on the roof of the world. The journey of a lifetime …
Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! to put together the perfect journey.
Mountain biking, rafting, vespa tours or yoga retreats around the Kathmandu valley or Pokhara, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic capital cities), a visit to the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas, an Everest sightseeing flight, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining in Pokhara, a spa & wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park Wildlife Safari & Tharu Villages (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or five-star treatment in historic Dwarika’s in Kathmandu.
Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these excursions for you, just inquire!
Date & Price
Dates
May – June 2024
29 Days
+ Custom Departures Available
+ Early Arrival for Chinese Visa!
Trek Price
$6480
+ Tibet Visa – Not Included
+ Single Supplement Hotels Tibet – $350
+ Garden Upgrade Hotels Kathmandu – $60
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House – $150
Guides
Western + Sherpa Guides | Kim Bannister + Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa
Tibetan Guide
Includes
- Western + Sherpa Guides | Kim + Lhakpa Sherpa
- Tibetan Guide
- Kathmandu Guest House (Breakfast)
- Tibet Hotels (Breakfast)
- Humla + Tibet Permits
- Tibet Sightseeing + Entrance Fees
- Kathmandu Lhasa Flight
- Domestic Flights
- Hotels En Route to Trek
- Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
- Airport Transfers
- NO Single Supplement on Trek!
- Kamzang Journeys Boutique Trekking
Marmot Thor (or similar quality) Western tents, ‘gourmet’ food with seasonal, fresh produce, French-press coffee, chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, library, ‘lounge’ with colorful Indian rugs, camp chairs, blankets, occasional tent music in evenings, oxygen & PAC bag (when needed), full medical kit, horses, yaks or porters, Western, Sherpa & local guides (when needed), our 5-star Kamzang staff + the signature yellow Kamzang dining tent!
Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225
Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes
Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140
Safety & Health Precautions | Included in Trek
- Thuraya Satellite Phone (When Allowed)
- InReach Satellite Messaging System (Free Texts on Trek) (When Allowed)
- Updated Route Published on InReach Site (When Allowed)
- Helicopter Evacuation Services (Excluding Cost of Evacuation) (When Allowed)
- Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
- PAC Bag (Portable Oxygen Chamber)
- Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
- Kayadyn Filtered Drinking Water
- SSafe, Sanitary, Delicious + Plentiful Food + Drinks
Excludes
- International Flights to Nepal
- Travel Medical + Travel Insurance (Both Required)
- Nepal or China Visa (We Get Chinese Visas in Kathmandu)
- Helicopter Evacuation
- Meals (While Not on Trek)
- Monastery Donations
- Equipment Rental
- Alcohol, Sodas & Packaged Drinks
- Laundry
- Tips
Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $300 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) + tips. We recommend $300 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew. There are ATMs in Kathmandu + Tibet.
Highlights & Reviews
Trip Advisor Reviews
Client Highlights + Reviews
Travelers’ Comments
Client Highlights
I reckon this was the most amazing trip I’ve been on with you. Clearly with all the major changes & glitches it had to be organised on the run at times so it was a tribute to you all that when problems arose you were able to work around them – the road accident in the valley, the Last Resort, your being ill, the long night drive, Tholing, Darchen, the weather etc, etc. As Pip & I have discussed if people want a trip when everything happens as planned it will be a straight up the Kali Gandaki to Lo and straight back down, a boring and uninteresting type of trip. You might as well just read a book and watch a DVD. I haven’t done 4 trips with you because I want this type of trip!
– Graham N (Australia), Kailash, Guge & Limi Humla Trek 2011
Trek Highlights
- Limi Humla trek in far-west Nepal
- Remote villages & nomadic settlements
- Mount Kailash Kora
- Saga Dawa festival at Kailash
- Ngari and the nomads of western Tibet
- Sacred Tirthapuri Gompa & Lake Manasarovar
- Kyunglung (ancient Zhangzhung Kingdom)
- The Guge Kingdom – Toling Gompa & Tsaparang
- Jeep safari across Tibet with Himalayan vistas
- Three full days in Lhasa
- Shigatse & Gyantse
- Exotic Kathmandu
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip + Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Contact & Details
Guides
Kim & Lhakpa
Tibetan Guide
Kamzang Journeys Contact
Kim Bannister
kim@kamzang.com
kamzangkim@gmail.com
Mobile: +(977) 9803414745 (WhatsApp), 9863196743
WhatsApp: +(977) 9803414745 (WhatsApp)
Kathmandu Contact
Khumbu Adventures
hiking.guide@gmail.com
Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841235461, 9705235461
Doma Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841510833, 9705510833
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa Mobile: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)
Tibet Email Notes
Give kim@kamzang.com as contact information for Kim Tibet as Gmail + Google is almost always blocked by the Chinese Government (as is Facebook). Give hiking.guide@yahoo.com as additional contact information for Lhakpa in Tibet. Doma + Nuru are answering hiking.guide@gmail.com in Nepal.
Tibet Satellite Phone & Communications
Satellite phones are not allowed in Tibet. Mobile numbers work throughout most of Tibet, however. Gmail, FaceBook WhatsApp and other apps and sites are generally blocked unless you have a VPN installed on your phone or computer.
Garmin InReach
Update coming before trek regarding whether or not our Garmin devices are allowed in Tibet.
Garmin InReach | Unlimited On-Trek Text Messages + Route Map
We have a Garmin MapShare page and a Garmin InReach satellite messaging device for sending and receiving messages on the treks guided by Kim + Lhakpa. Give the link to people who want to follow or communicate with us and have them send a message. The ‘message’ button is on the top left of the email link that they receive; the sender needs to input an EMAIL address (instead of mobile number) to get a response. You can email them back directly during the trek (the device is linked to my mobile) as much as you’d like. Messages are free, enjoy!
Follow Us on Facebook
Only if I am able to connect to FaceBook in Tibet with a VPN!
Kamzang Journeys Facebook
I will post InReach updates to our Kamzang Journeys Facebook page if friends & family want to follow our progress.
Kathmandu Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House
Nepal & Chinese Visas
Make sure you have a multiple-entry visa for re-entering Nepal from Tibet. We will submit your passport for the Chinese visa once you arrive in Kathmandu, and we also get the group permit for Tibet.
Nepal Tourist Visas
You can get your Nepal visa at TIA International Airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home at a Nepali Embassy or Consulate. When you arrive at immigration in Kathmandu, scan your passport at the visa machines (no photo needed) or produce your online, printed visa-on-arrival form, pay the visa fee, and go to the appropriate immigration line. Make sure you get a MULTIPLE ENTRY visa for Nepal.
15 Days – $30
30 Days – $50
90 Days – $125
Tourist Visa Extension (15 days) – $45 (+$3 Additional Day))
Nepal Visa
Nepal Visa Information
Kathmandu Guest House
Ward: 16, Street name: Saatghumti, Area: Thamel, District: Bagmati, City: Kathmandu, Zone: Bagmati, Phone: +977 14700004
Chinese Visa Requirements
No RUSH Chinese visas from Kathmandu. We need 3 WORKING DAYS to issue Chinese visas, so you’ll need to arrive early in Kathmandu for a trip to Tibet! Tourist visas are generally $140 for Americans, $100 for Canadians and $40 for other nationalities.
1 – Valid Passport (6 Months+)
2 – Clear Passport Copy
3 – Color Photo (See Requirements)
4 – Visa Filled Out by Client. No Eraser (We supply this form for you to fill out in Kathmandu)
Hotels, Meals + Transport in Tibet
Hotels are generally 3-4 star or heritage hotels, though in more basic towns they will be the best available accommodation. Breakfasts at the hotels are included in the trip, other meals are not included though we will often go out to eat together. You are free to do your own thing if you prefer. Transport will be by private vehicle, either a good quality and new Landcruiser type of SUV or a mini-bus.
Travel Medical Insurance
Required for your own safety. We carry a copy of your insurance with all contact, personal and policy information with us on the trek and our office in Kathmandu keeps a copy. Note that we almost always trek over 4000 meters (13,000′) and that we don’t do any technical climbing with ropes, ice axes or crampons.
Global Rescue Rescue Services
We recommend (but don’t require) that our trekkers sign up for Global Rescue services as a supplement to your travel medical insurance. You can book this directly through our Kamzang Journeys site. It’s trickier to get helicoptoer rescue in in Tibet, and Global Rescue had the best connections to provide a rescue if needed.
Global Rescue
Medical On-Trek
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs and other essentials. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please do have a full check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety.
DO bring all prescription medications and rehydration powders-electrolytes. We advise bringing your own Diamox, Ciprofloxin, Azithromycin + Augmentin. We do have all of these with us, but the Western versions are generallly more reliable than the Indian equivalents. See Gear List for a full list of recommended medications for the trek.
PAC Bag & Oxygen On-Trek
We carry a Portable Oxygen Chamber (Gamow Bag) with us on many treks, and oxygen with us on all treks. There is no charge for use of the PAC Bag, but the oxygen cost is $300 per canister (which you can pass on to your insurance company).
Health Information
CDC Nepal
CDC Tibet
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Notes on Itinerary
Although we try to follow our trek itinerary, it is ONLY a guideline based on years of experience trekking in many Himalayan regions. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group’s acclimatization rate or sickness, or improved campsites and lodges.
The Himalaya are our passion, and we take our trekking and cycling trips seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure …
Note on Traveling in Tibet
NOTE ON TRAVELLING IN TIBET
‘Tibetans employ a lunar calendar, which would in theory assign to each month 29½ days. Since the solar year is 365¼ days, each lunar year (12 lunar months) is 11 days too short. To make up for this, every three years an additional month is added. However, like wild cards in a poker game, the extra month can be added anywhere in the Tibetan calendar year, the position being determined by an astrological forecast indicating what would be the lucky place to add the new month. Actually, even this is a slight oversimplification. In practice Tibetans round off the lunar month to exactly 30 days, but then they go ahead and add the extra month every 3 years anyway. To make up the difference, certain days of the month – again decided by the official astrologers – are simply eliminated, or, if some days are thought to be particularly fortunate, they may be doubled. At the end of each year the official astrologer presents the calendar for the following year. Until then, there is no future calendar. The new year begins in February, except in those years that begin following an added month, when the year begins in March. Hence when modern historical writers on Tibet indicate that some even occurred, say in April of 619 AD it gives one pause for thought.
The 7 days of the Tibetan week are named after the sun, the moon, and the five visible planets; Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, and Saturn. Sa is the Tibetan word for ‘planet’ and the 7 days are then names: Sa Nyi-ma [Sunday – Sun], Sa Da-wa [Monday – Moon], Sa Mik-mar [Tuesday – Mars], Sa Lak-pa [Wednesday – Mercury], Sa Pur-bu [Thursday – Jupiter], Sa Pa-sang [Friday – Venus] and Sa Pen-pa [Saturday – Saturn]. Until the 11th century, a 12-year calendar cycle was used; each year being named after one of the following animals: mouse, ox, tiger, hare, dragon, serpent, horse, sheep, ape, bird, dog, and hog. In the year 1027 AD – one hopes the historian have made the correct conversion – the Tibetans began a 60-year cycle as advocated in the Kalacakra-Tantra, a Sanskrit religious text that was translated into Tibetan that year. To make up the sixty-year cycle, the twelve animals are combined with five elements: wood, fire, earth, iron, and water. Thus the years have colorful names like Fire-Mouse or Iron-Ape. Tibetan historical documents contain phrases like “On the thirteenth day of the 8th month of the Water-Tiger year . . .’
– ‘In the Himalayas’ – Jeremy Bernstein (1989), pp 228-229
Arrival Kathmandu
Arrival in Kathmandu
You will be met at the airport by the Kathmandu Guest House representative. Look for a sign with your name on it as well as the Kathmandu Guest House sign. You will be transferred to the Kathmandu Guest House where your rooms have been pre-booked. Kim will meet you at the Kathmandu Guest House to go over details and get you settled into Kathmandu life … Please hydrate!
If you arrive early and Kim can’t meet you just then, a meeting will be arranged via email. Kim’s mobile (+WhatsApp) number: +977 9803414745 (WhatsApp). Skype is Kim Bannister. Call or text if there is any problem with your flight or pick-up, please!
Nepal Tourist Visas
You can get your Nepal visa at TIA International Airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home at a Nepali Embassy or Consulate. When you arrive at immigration in Kathmandu, scan your passport at the visa machines (no photo needed) or produce your online, printed visa-on-arrival form, pay the visa fee, and go to the appropriate immigration line.
15 Days – $30
30 Days – $50
90 Days – $125
Tourist Visa Extension (15 days) – $45 (+$3 Additional Day))
Nepal Visa
Nepal Visa Information
Kathmandu Guest House
Ward: 16, Street name: Saatghumti, Area: Thamel, District: Bagmati, City: Kathmandu, Zone: Bagmati, Phone: +977 14700004
Chinese Visa Requirements
+ No RUSH Chinese Visas from Kathmandu. We need 3 WORKING DAYS to issue Chinese Visa!
1 – Valid Passport (6 months+)
2 – Clear Passport Copy
3 – Color Photo (See Requirements)
4 – Visa filled out by client. No eraser. We supply this form for you to fill out.
Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House
International Medical Center Kathmandu
CIWEC
Nepal Temperatures + Clothing
See Gear tab for trekking and cycling clothing, as well as medical supplies recommendations.
Kathmandu during the spring and autumn trekking seasons is usually quite warm (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirts) during the day, and gets chilly (light fleece or jacket) in the late afternoon and evenings. Nights can be cold enough for a sweater and/or jacket, or warm enough for t-shirts. Summer is hotter and wetter, and you’ll need a rain jacket and umbrella. The winter months (late Nov – March) are chilly in the mornings and evenings, cold enough that you might start the day in a down jacket, but often warming up enough to wear a t-shirt by mid-day. Nights get cold enough for a down jacket if you’re sitting outside, although many restaurants have heaters or fire pits. It never snows in Kathmandu. Keens, Chacos or other hiking sandals are great for wandering around Kathmandu, and for trekking in lower altitudes. Crocs are good to have for rooms, showers and at camp when trekking or cycling.
Trekking is a mixed bag of temperatures. LAYERS are the key as hot can change quickly to freezing crossing the passes and snowfalls are common. We often have some rain below 3000 meters in the spring and early autumn, and it can rain hard in the summer. Have a wide range of layer-able trekking clothes for summer to winter temperatures. Keep a lightweight down jacket or synthetic jacket with you at all times, available inexpensively in Kathmandu. A lightweight rain poncho and umbrella for trekking rare ecommended in the spring and summer seasons. Be prepared! See our ‘Gear’ tab for full details on gear, shoes, clothing, electronics and meds for the trek.
There are lots of real gear shops (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Sherpa Gear, OR) and many ‘fake’ and Nepali-made shops in Kathmandu, so if you don’t think you have the right gear starting the trip, it is easy to pick up gear once in Kathmandu. We have sleeping bags to rent, duffel bags, camp towels and buffs to purchase, and you’ll get a FREE Kamzang Journeys t-shirt for the trip!
Dress conservatively in Kathmandu and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are okay if they aren’t too short, short mini skirts aren’t recommended. Sleeveless t-shirts are absolutely fine, but perhaps avoid skimpy tank tops on the trail. Super tight lycra and very skimpy doesn’t go over so well with village elders or remote villagers, and will generally limit your ability to have meaningful interactions with Nepali villagers. Many of the younger generation in Nepal wear modern Indian or Western-influenced clothes but remember that you haven’t signed up for a beach or surf vacation. Use your good judgment, and be an ambassador for western travelers! Please ask Kim or your guide if unsure about appropriate clothing, we’re always happy to advise.
Nepal Cultural Issues
Nepalis are very open and welcoming, but there are a few issues you should be aware of to make your stay in Nepal more fulfilling. Use your right hand to pass things, shake hands or do most anything. Left hands are somewhat taboo. Nepalis often place their left hand on the right forearm when passing things to others, a sign of respect. Best not to pat kids on heads, or point feet ahead of you at monasteries. Don’t walk over someone’s legs or feet, but put your hand down in front of you to signal them to pull their legs to the side. Take off shoes and hats when going into Buddhist monasteries and Hindu temples, don’t use flashes inside monasteries or temples if possible and be respectful when attending pujas (prayer ceremonies). You can talk and move around, all religious are very tolerant, but be aware of your level of voice and where you are walking. Don’t sit on Buddhist monastery benches, they are used as tables. You will often be shown to low, carpeted sitting areas in the back of a monastery. If you’re served tea, it’s fine to accept (in fact, the servers will be happy to give you tea), but also fine to say ‘no thank you’, putting your hand up. If you don’t want more tea, often the salt-butter variety, simply cover your cup with your hand.
Nepalis don’t anger quickly in general, so try not to raise your voice if exasperated or angry as it only will make the situation worse. Do bargain at shops, with taxis and rickshaws, but don’t fleece people as many people are quite poor and need to make a living. Give small donations on the streets if you choose to, but try not to encourage begging and be aware of who you are giving your money to. If you do want to donate to a good cause, ask about our Kamzang Fund or other responsible organizations.
Tibet Cultural Issues, Temperatures + Clothing
Tibet is generally in the rainshadow of the monsoon, but Lhasa and Central Tibet (including Kharta Valley) still get quite a bit of precipitation in the summer months. Be prepared with layers and appropriate gear for rain, heat and colder temperatures both in Lhasa, Central Tibet and on a trek or cycling trip. Mornings and evenings-nights on treks and cycle trips, when at higher altitudes, can still reach freezing temperatures so travel with good down jackets and sleeping bags. Otherwise, gear is similar to Nepali Himalayan treks, and ditto for street clothes.
Tibetans are more conservative than Chinese in general, and you’ll see Chinese women dressed in some serious slinky ‘fashion’ in the cities of Tibet and China. Tibetans are quite liberal in general, and of course, the younger generation is liberal in terms of clothing, especially with the Chinese influence. Older Tibetans still dress traditionally and conservatively. You’ll have a richer experience in Tibet if you dress a bit conservatively! The same rules about being thoughtful and conservative in monasteries, villages and in the countryside apply in Tibet. Pass mani walls and chortens on the right, do koras of Buddhist monasteries clockwise, and the opposite for Bon monasteries and chortens. Take shoes and hats off (generally) when entering a monastery. Photography fees are often charged in monasteries if photos are allowed.
Tips for Staff
We recommend $300-$350 per person to go into the tip pool for the staff, which can be given to Kim in Kathmandu in $US. We also pitch in to buy our incredible staff drinks on the last night, or any other night that you feel like treating them to a bottle of Kukure Rum or a few beers!
Tips in General
Tips are always appreciated but they don’t need to be extravagant. 100-300 NRP to carry bags to/from your room is fine, the women who clean your room will be happy with 200-300 NRP when you leave, and 300-500 NRP is great for your airport transfers. Round-up taxi fares, in general. A larger tip would be expected for a day trip in a private car, perhaps 500 NRP, and a tour guide might get 500-100 NRP. 10% is included in most restaurant and hotel bills in Nepal, and if it’s not included it’s still expected. You can round-up the restaurant bills as well. In Tibet, there is not as much tipping but it’s still appreciated and often expected at tourist restaurants …
Cash, Credit Cards & ATMs
ATMs are available all over Kathmandu, and give up to 25,000 NRP per transaction, in general. You can also change money at the hotel counter (a good rate usually) or just outside the hotel at any of the money changers. They’re quite competitive. You’ll want cash in NRP with you on the trek for local shopping, drinks, beers, snacks, beer, laundry and charging electronics. There are usually local crafts and textiles to buy along the way as well! Credit cards are accepted at hotels, most larger restaurants and cafes, and most of the larger gear, craft and pashmina shops in Kathmandu.
There are ATMs all over Tibet as well, and we’ll make stops at the Bank of China to change money.
Pampering Yourself & Shopping in Kathmandu
We’re happy to book your rooms before or after the trek at boutique and luxury hotels, resorts and spas in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley. We’re happy to help with advice on where to purchase the most authentic crafts, pashmina or other hand-made Nepali products in Kathmandu. We sell local handicrafts at our Cafe Caravan at Boudha, as well as delicious cakes, coffees, meals and snacks.
Shopping & Sightseeing in Tibet
See the Tibet tab for many suggestions and advice on all sorts of shopping and sightseeing!
Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Prints & Paintings
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, and more recently the artist Tenzing Samdup also sells his Dolpo prints at the cafe. We also have an extensive selection of ‘caravan’ handicrafts, coffees, teas, t-shirts, ceramic mugs and Himalayan books for sale …
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Journeys duffel bags, Kamzang Journeys t-shirts, Kamzang Journeys camp towels, Kamzang Journeys buffs, handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes and bags, handcrafted Himalayan textile pillow covers and more unique, handcrafted tribal silver and Himalayan textiles available from Kim here in Kathmandu.
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing & Tours
See our Kathmandu Tours tab for lots of idea of how to experience the real Nepal.
Kathmandu & Kathmandu Valley Information
Our ‘Insider’ list of things to do, places to go, what to visit, the most happening restaurants and the best hotels in Kathmandu and the beautiful Kathmandu Valley.
Happenings in Kathmandu
Great Stays
See our ‘Great Stays’ tab for our picks of some of the best heritage, boutique or interesting hotels, guest houses, and lodges in the Kathmandu Valley and elsewhere in Nepal.
Gear
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Journeys duffel bags, t-shirts, camp towels and buffs. Handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes and bags, unique Himalayan textile pillow covers, cashmere stoles and more!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Gear List
A guideline, not a bible, for the gear you will (probably) need on the trek. Do ask (or send gear links) if you have questions! Everyone has their own method of gearing-ups for the mountain, so although these suggestions are based on 20+ years in the Himalayan regions, they may not be exactly what you bring on a trek. Layers are essential for trekking, and quality is more important than quantity. It’s worth investing in some new, warm, lightweight trekking gear! Kim will check your gear before the trek, if needed.
One duffel bag per person. The airline regulations in Nepal (not applicable to India) allow 15 kg per person for mountain flights (including your daypack). We find ways to adjust, but be aware of this limitation and try to limit your duffel bag and daypack to 20 kg (50 lbs) total. 20 kg (50 lbs) is also the weight limit for our treks, although we’re a bit flexible.
- Duffel Bag
- Day Pack (30-40 L)
- Sleeping Bag (-20 to 0F/-30C to -20 Recommended)
- Air Mattress
- Trekking Boots, Trekking Shoes &/or Running Shoes
- Hiking Sandals, Water or Running Shoes (REQUIRED for River Crossings. Inquire for Your Trek)
- Crocs (Evenings & Washing)
- Down Jacket(s) &/or Vests (Can be Lightweight Down Jackets. Layering Recommended)
- Wind/Rain Jacket & Pants (Inquire for Your Trek)
- Trekking Pants (2-3)
- T-Shirts (3-4)
- Long-Sleeve Shirts (3-4)
- Technical Jacket (Depending on Other Jackets)
- Thermal Top & Bottom
- Thermal (Lightweight) Top & Bottom
- Evening Thermal Top & Bottom (Synthetic &/or Down Pants Optional)
- Socks (5-6)
- Down Booties (Optional, Recommended)
- Gloves (Lighter Pair & Heavier Pair for Passes)
- Thermal Hat
- Baseball Cap &/or Wide-Brimmed Hat
- Camp Towel
- Inflatable Camp Pillow (Optional)
- Trekking Poles (Recommended &/or Required. Inquire for Your Trek)
- Sunglasses (Extra Recommended)
- Reading Glasses (Extra Recommended)
- Head Lamp (Extra Recommended)
- Water Bottles | Nalgenes (2-3)
- Water Bladder (Optional, Recommended)
- Travel Umbrella (Optional, Recommended)
- Watch (or Alarm)
- Battery Chargers & Extra Batteries
- USB Adapter with Multiple Ports (Recommended)
- Camera or Smart Phone (Optional)
- Small Water Filter, SteriPen +/or Squeeze Filter Bottle Umbrella (Optional, Recommended)
- Camp Washing Bowl (Optional, Collapsible for Clothes)
- Laundry Detergent or Bio-degradable Clothes Soap
- Small Solar Panel (Optional, Recommended for iPods, Phones, Camera Batteries, e-Readers – We Often Have Solar Charging Capacity)
- Book(s) or Kindle &/or Audiobooks
- Zip-Lock | Plastic Bags
- Soft Toilet Paper | Tissues (Optional)
- Toiletries
- SPF Sunscreen & Lip Balm
- Personal Medical Supplies
- Hand Sanitizers (Small)
- Reusable Wipes (Recommended, Not Single Use)
- Rehydration | Electrolytes (Required)
- Snacks (Required)
Dining Tent Note
We have a ‘dress code’ for the evenings in the tent, which essentially means you’ll be changing out of your trekking clothes and into clean, warm evening clothes (which works well for getting into your sleeping bag after dinner). This is to keep the dining tent as clean as possible, as we eat and sit on the ground in Crazy Creek (style) camp chairs …
Suggested Medical Supplies
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs etc. but please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety!
SUGGESTED MEDS | Dexamethasone, Nifedipine & Diamox (altitude), Azithromycin, Ciprofloxacin & Augmentin (antibiotics), blister bandages, Tegaderm &/or bandages, knee & ankle supports/braces (if required), ACE bandage for sprains & strains, cough drops.
Bring whatever pain meds you generally use (Ibuprofen, Paracetamol/Tylenol, Diclofenac), meds for diarrhea (Loperamide/Imodium) and nausea (Ondansetron), antihistamines (non-drowsy & Benadryl is good for a drowsy antihistamine that might help with sleep), as well as any medications that you take regularly or that your doctor prescribes. We recommend picking up a combination Salmeterol & Fluticasone inhaler locally, good for (from a doctor trekking friend) “high altitude cough due to reactive airways, which is kind of like temporary asthma. The ingredients in the inhaler relax the bronchial passages and calm inflammation in the airways.”Stay away from sleeping medications, drugs in the codeine-opiate-narcotic family and other drugs that suppress your breathing (not a good at altitude). And don’t forget electrolytes! Have some with you in your pack (as well as snacks) daily …
We’re happy to take excess medical supplies off your hands when you leave if you won’t need them. We use lots of the large amount we have with us to treat locals, our staff and our trekkers…
Kim’s Gear Suggestions
I generally wear a trekking t-shirt, trekking pants, a mid-weight long-sleeve shirt, a lightweight synthetic jacket (sometimes paired with a vest), often starting the morning in a lightweight pair of long underwear. I carry a lightweight wind-rain jacket and pants, an extra pair of socks, gloves, a baseball cap and hat in my daypack, and on colder days also have a lightweight down jacket with me.
I use a 35 L Osprey daypack with a bladder, and an extra Nalgene to refill water on the trail, and often use trekking poles. I generally trek in running shoes, although I use boots on very cold days and over passes, and sometimes on hot days I also trek in Keen or Chaco sandalas. I often carry Crocs with me in case of river crossings and to give my feet a break at lunch (Tevas, Chacos and Keen sandals take a long time to dry and are relatively heavy), and I carry micro-spikes on pass days. I always have snacks, electrolytes, my camera or iPhone, sunscreen, hand sanitizer and some toilet paper, a small medical kit and a SteriPen.
Good trekking boots or running shoes that you’ve hiked in before the trek are essential. You don’t ever need climbing or plastic boots (for mini-crampons or micro-spikes). Trekking poles are not required but strongly recommended, especially for going down passes which are often steep and icy, and for treks with river crossings and rocky trails. Bring gators if you tend to use them but they’re not required if you don’t own a pair. Micro-spikes (mini-crampons) or YakTrax are useful (or essential) for pass crossings (inquire before the trek). We have an ice ax and rope with us during some treks for pass crossing days, for extra safety.
Good, polarized sunglasses are essential. Do bring an extra pair in case you lose or break them. Don’t forget a sun hat and/or a baseball cap, perhaps an extra headlamp, and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF! Don’t get caught with blistered lips that don’t heal at altitude!
Nights are chilly to very cold, so a down jacket(s) and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. We recommend a down sleeping bag of -10 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C). Mine is -20 F. At lower altitudes I open it and sleep under it like a quilt, and up higher am toasty warm during cold nights. NOTE sleeping bag ratings don’t correspond to how warm they need to be at altitude. Campsites at higher altitudes can be freezing at night and in the morning. The dining tent is a Tibetan style ‘yurt’ with cotton rugs (dhurries), tables and camp chairs on the ground. It warms up in the evenings when everyone is inside having soup, but it is still important to have warm clothes for the evenings. I change into thermals for the evening at camp and to sleep in when we get to camp; stretchy yoga pants over thermal underwear, light down vest and/or jacket over thermal layers. I love my down (or synthetic) booties at night in the tent! We have blankets for everyone if needed, and we even have a small propane heater on some treks …
Bring XL plastic bags or stuff sacks in your daypack in case of rain. The weather is changeable in the Himalaya, so we recommend that everyone has a strong, waterproof duffel bag for the trek. We supply covers that go over the duffel bags to protect them from rain, dirt + rips.
Day Pack
We recommend a 30-45 liter day pack. Better to have it too large than too small as on pass days you’ll need to carry more warm gear, and you can always cinch daypacks down. Many packs come with internal water bladders, or you can purchase them separately; very good for ensuring that you stay hydrated. Make sure your pack fits comfortably when loaded before bringing it trekking!!
In your day pack, you’ll carry your camera or phone, approx 2 liters of water, a jacket, lightweight wind and/or rain pants (often), a thermal hat, a baseball cap or sun hat, a buff (optional, but great to have on dusty trails), gloves, sunscreen, snacks, electrolytes, maybe something to purify water, hand sanitizer, a small bit of medical supplies, a pack-cover and often a lightweight down jacket. I slip my Crocs in for lunchtime stops or unexpected river crossings, and almost always carry a lightweight down jacket!
Tents
Everyone gets their own North Face style dome tent (3-person, large) without paying a single supplement. Couples share the same sized tent.
Drinking Water
We bring KATADYN (or equivalent) expedition-sized water filters along on the trek for fresh drinking water, ecologically the best way to get water in the Himalaya’s fragile trekking regions. Bring your own SteriPen or Sawyer squeeze filter for a back-up filtered water system during the day if you already have one. We bring ours as well, so this is optional. Please bring at least 2 Nalgene or other water bottles in addition to your water bladder.
WATER NOTE | We do not provide boiled water for filling water bottles on our camping treks although there is endless hot water for herbal, black or green teas, hot chocolate, hot lemon as well as delicious Indian chai and Kashmiri tea.
Snacks
You will NEED snacks hiking at altitude, even if you’re not a big snacker. Bring your favorite energy bars, gels, chocolate bars, dried fruit and nuts, jerky or whatever else gives you quick energy. Emergen-C and/or other electrolyte mixes are important in water bottles or before or after the trekking day; it is ESSENTIAL to bring electrolytes with you in your day packs in case you cramp up, get diarrhea or otherwise need them.
You might want to bring something to share in the dining tent. Any sort of cheese (especially from your hometown) is great as a treat on a cheese board before dinner, and something sweet is always appreciated!
Rentals
We have (approximately) 0F super-down sleeping bags to rent for $2.50 per day on our Nepal & Tibet treks. You might want a warmer sleeping bag (I use a -20F); if so, please do bring your own, as we want you to be warm while sleeping at night!
Packing & Extra Gear Storage
It’s easy to pack and unpack from a duffel bag, especially when the temperature drops. It’s a good idea to invest in a strong, waterproof duffel such as a North Face or one of our Kamzang Journeys duffels. You can store extra gear and computers at the hotel while we’re trekking.
Shopping & Snacks in Nepal (& Tibet)
Almost all gear is now available in Kathmandu, from real (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Sherpa Gear, Marmot or at some shops in Thamel) to inexpensive knock-offs or good Nepali brands. The real gear shops take credit cards. There are many camera and mobile shops, and you can pick up good quality chocolate, snack bars (including gluten free, organic and vegan) and lots of other varieties dried fruits, nuts and snacks in Kathmandu. And, of course, you can shop for pashminas (or cashmere, or fakes, please ask if unsure), good quality silver, handicrafts and locally produced specialty products. We also have a large variety of good quality, unique handicrafts at Café Caravan in Boudhanath.
Our trips to Tibet always start in Kathmandu, so the above advice applies, and you can also pick up interesting Chinese snacks and dried fruits in all of the markets in Lhasa.
Shopping & Snacks in India
You can pick up some trekking gear in Leh, such as trekking poles, sleeping bags (about 0F), lightweight down jackets, duffel bags, some good Western and Chinese or Asian gear, but not shoes or boots. Top up your gear in Leh if you need to, but best not to rely on doing major shopping here although the second hand markets can be a treasure chest of trekking and cycling gear! There is a large variety of good quality dried fruit and nuts available in Leh at the outdoor markets and indoor supermarkets, and you can also pick up good chocolates, snack bars, dried fruit, nuts and seeds, and herbal teas in Leh at Chospa Supermarket.
Lhasa
LHASA MONASTERIES & SIGHTS
JOKHANG TEMPLE & BARKHOR SQUARE
The holiest gompa (temple) in Tibet, revered by Tibetans of all sects though officially Gelugpa, shelters the sacred Jowo Sakyamuni statue and was recently partially destroyed by a massive fire (2018), though rebuilt. Jokhang’s architectural style is a mixture of Indian vihara, Tibetan and Nepalese design. Shuffle among the pilgrims, butter lamps permeating the air, and find gruesome Gods in hidden annexes. There is always a procession of devout Tibetans through the complex. After walking the holy inner circle, complete a circuit (kora) of the Barkhor, the market surrounding the Jokhang, for good karma. It is the best market to shop for all things Tibetan, and just about anything else you ever wanted.
“The Jokhang was founded during the reign of King Songtsen Gampo. According to tradition, the temple was built for the king’s two brides: Princess Wencheng of the Chinese Tang dynasty and Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal. Both are said to have brought important Buddhist statues and images from China and Nepal to Tibet, which were housed here, as part of their dowries. The oldest part of the temple was built in 652. Over the next 900 years, the temple was enlarged several times with the last renovation done in 1610 by the Fifth Dalai Lama. Following the death of Gampo, the image in Ramcho Lake temple was moved to the Jokhang temple for security reasons. When King Tresang Detsen ruled from 755 to 797, the Buddha image of the Jokhang temple was hidden, as the king’s minister was hostile to the spread of Buddhism in Tibet. During the late ninth and early tenth centuries, the Jokhang and Ramoche temples were said to have been used as stables. In 1049 Atisha, a renowned teacher of Buddhism from Bengal taught in Jokhang.
Around the 14th century, the temple was associated with the Vajrasana in India. In the 18th century the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing dynasty, following the Gorkha-Tibetan war in 1792, did not allow the Nepalese to visit this temple and it became an exclusive place of worship for the Tibetans. During the Chinese development of Lhasa, the Barkhor Square in front of the temple was encroached. During the Cultural Revolution, Red Guards attacked the Jokhang temple in 1966 and for a decade there was no worship. Renovation of the Jokhang took place from 1972 to 1980. In 2000, the Jokhang became a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an extension of the Potala Palace (a World Heritage Site since 1994). Many Nepalese artists have worked on the temple’s design and construction.” – Wikipedia
DREPUNG, NECHUNG & SERA GOMPAS
Sera is one of the best preserved monasteries in Tibet, renown for its lively debating sessions in the courtyard each afternoon. Within its whitewashed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study. Drepung was founded in the 14th century and was once the largest gompa in the world with a population of around 10,000 monks. These days the figure has been reduced to several hundred, but there is still much of interest to see here, as the structure escaped relatively unscathed during the Cultural Revolution. Just below Drepung is the tantric monastery of Nechung, referred to as ‘ the Demon Fortress of the Oracle King’. This interesting monastery was the seat of the State Oracle until the Dalai Lama fled Tibet in 1959. The oracle became possessed by the protector deity Pehar and acted as a mouthpiece for the deity, often not having knowledge of what he said. The position of oracle came from the older Bon tradition.
POTALA PALACE
The magnificent white, black, red and gold Potala Palace dominates the skyline of Lhasa. It was the winter quarters of the Dalai Lama, housing jewel-encrusted gold and silver stupas of previous Dalai Lamas, numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.
“The residence of the Dalai Lama until the 14th Dalai Lama fled to India during the 1959 Tibetan uprising. It is now a museum and World Heritage Site. The palace is named after Mount Potalaka, the mythical abode of the bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. The 5th Dalai Lama started its construction in 1645 after one of his spiritual advisers, Konchog Chophel, pointed out that the site was ideal as a seat of government, situated as it is between Drepung and Sera monasteries and the old city of Lhasa. It may overlay the remains of an earlier fortress called the White or Red Palace on the site, built by Songtsen Gampo in 637. (The substantial structure has) copper poured into the foundations to help proof it against earthquakes. Thirteen storys of buildings, containing over 1000 rooms, 10,000 shrines and about 200,000 statues, soars 117m on top of Marpo Ri, the “Red Hill …). Tradition has it that the three main hills of Lhasa represent the “Three Protectors of Tibet”. Chokpori, just to the south of the Potala, is the soul-mountain of Vajrapani, Pongwari that of Manjusri, and Marpori, the hill on which the Potala stands, represents Avalokiteśvara.” – Wikipedia
RAMOCHE GOMPA
Just north of the Barkhor, at the end of the road to the right of Dunya Restaurant and the Yak Hotel on the left of the busy shopping road.
“Ramoche is considered the sister temple of the Jokhang, completed about the same time. Tradition says that it was built originally to house the much revered Jowo Rinpoche statue, carried to Lhasa via Lhagang in a wooden cart, brought to Tibet when Princess Wencheng came to Lhasa. Unlike the Jokhang, Ramoche was originally built in Chinese style. During Mangsong Mangtsen’s reign (7th c), because of a threat that the Tang Chinese might invade, Princess Wencheng is said to have had the statue of Jowo Rinpoche hidden in a secret chamber in the Jokhang. Princess Jincheng, sometime after 710, had it placed in the central chapel of the Jokhang. It was replaced at Ramoche by a statue of Jowo Mikyo Dorje, a small bronze statue of the Buddha when he was eight years old, crafted by Vishvakarman, and brought to Lhasa by the Nepalese queen, Bhrikuti. It is said to have been badly damaged by the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution.
The temple was badly damaged during the Mongol invasions and there is no certainty that the statue that remained in 1959 was the original one. The original temple was destroyed by fire, and the present three-storied building was constructed in 1474. Soon after it became the Assembly Hall of the Gyuto Tratsang, or Upper Tantric College of Lhasa and was home to 500 monks. There was a close connection with Yerpa which provided summer quarters for the monks.” – Wikipedia
NORBULINGKA SUMMER PALACE
Norbulingka is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, set in a quiet and relaxing garden which used to house the Dalai Lama’s pets. One particularly interesting mural inside depicts the history of Tibet and all the Dalai Lamas.
ANI TSARKHUNG (CANGGU) GOMPA (NUNNERY)
This lovely nunnery is tucked away between the Muslim Great Mosque and vegetable corner of the old city, on the furthest kora around the the Barkor. The yellow ani gompa, with an open courtyard, houses about 100 nuns. The Ani Tsarkhung Nunnery (tshamkhang means place for spiritual retreat) was built in the 7th c by Songsten Gampo, who used its meditation chamber, a spot which is now a sacred spot behind the nunnery. Since the 12th c, the monastery has been used mainly by Buddhist nuns, who support themselves through alms and manufacturing items such as clothing and printed texts. Its main assembly hall contains a beautiful image of Chenrezi, the multi-armed bodhisattva of Compassion.
“As a public nunnery, Canggu Nunnery focuses on passing on and promoting ceremonies and rituals of believing Goddess of Mercy and Buddha Tara. All the nuns are chanting by sutra recitation hall at 8:00 every morning. Then a professional ceremony lasts until about 4 pm … In addition to its unique religious dedication, Canggu Nunnery is popular among local residents also because it manages to raise funds by itself … The nunnery (also) runs a clinic. It employs experienced medical professionals as doctors and some of its nuns who know some medical knowledge as assistants. For years the clinic served the local residents, and because of their kindness, patience and consideration for the people, they are much trusted by the locals. In addition, the nunnery runs a small shop selling petty commodities that are both trustworthy quality and price.
The nunnery also runs a tea house looking on the street, and a small tea garden hiding inside. Everyday, many travelers who come to Barkhor Street to pray, burn joss sticks and stroll around would take a rest under the big umbrellas at the tea house, and have a taste of “Qia A Mao”, a sweet tea made of milk, sugar and black tea, Tibetan noodles or steamed stuffed buns made by the nuns.” – China Highlights
PHABONKHA GOMPA
About 10 km out of Lhasa, this 1300 year old monastery is one of the Lhasa region’s first buildings, and was founded by Songsten Gampo in the 7thc. “Although originally the site of his castle or fort, the Tibetan Annals have revealed that Pabonka was converted into a monastery, possibly under the reign of the second great Buddhist king of Tibet Trisong Detsen. Trisong Detsen, along with Guru Rinpoche and the first seven monks of the new Tibetan Empire, used to meditate at the hermitage and it became one of Tibet’s very earliest Buddhist monasteries, possibly even pre-dating Jokhang. The original nine-storied monastery was partially destroyed by King Langdharma in 841 during his campaign to destroy monastic Buddhism. It was rebuilt in the 11th century as a two-storied structure that housed 200 monks.” – Wikipedia
MURU SARPA (NEW) GOMPA
This smaller monastery is related to Maru Nyimpa Gompa, and is locate across the street from Gyan Gyen Hotel, with a printing press. There is another monastery just past this one called Gyume Gompa
BARKOR SQUARE & KORA
JAMPA (MAITREYA) GOMPA
A small atmospheric gompa in the middle of the Barkhor kora, access from the eastern side of the kora. There is a protector deities shrine where barley beer and chang are offered to the protector deities. Pilgrims circle the large prayer wheel just in front, and you may hear pilgrims chanting inside the prayer wheel room. The gompa is a bright yellow building just in back of the prayer wheel, with Muru Ngingpa Gompa just behind.
MURU NYINGPA (OLD) GOMPA
Muru Nyingba Gompa was the Lhasa seat of the former State Oracle, who had his main residence at Nechung Monastery. It is said that Emperor Songtsen Gampo built the first building here, and it is where the great Tibetan scholar, Thonmi Sambhota completed his work developing the Tibetan alphabet in the first half of the 7th c. The present building, first constructed during the reign of King Ralpacan in the 9th century, is built like an Indian vihara around a courtyard, with the lhakang to the north and the monks quarters on the three other sides. The gompa was destroyed during the persecution of Buddhism under Langdarma in the 9th c, but rebuilt by Atisha (980-1054) and became Gelugpa under the Third Dalai Lama, Sonam Gyatso (1543–1589). It became the Lhasa residence of the Nechung Oracle in the 17th c, the oracle who was possessed by Pehar in his trances.
BARKHOR BACK STREET WALK
From the alley just before Gyan Gyen Hotel, take a left towards the Jokhang Temple and pass House of Shambala, a boutique hotel with a great little downstairs bar and a craft shop, on the right. Continue past several shops selling baskets with leather trim, wooden butter containers, Buddhist statues and dyed textiles amongst the other mostly Chinese shops and teashops. If you head to the right, you will eventually reach Makye Ame restaurant on the Barkhor Kora. Take the left alley back out of the kora to reach the Muslim section of the old city, filled with vegetable and food vendors, homemade noodle and meat shops, and the Great Mosque of Tibet. Continue past the mosque, and take
The next turn towards the Jokhang Temple begins with the large covered market (meats, butter, vegetables and local goods), and continues past a street with several shops selling horse gear, including a Tibetan man with real antique tackle, blankets and woven bags.
Tibetan Handicraft Workshop Tour
Lhasa Village Handicraft Development Center (1-2 hrs), led by Shilok. (2 km) (shilokdolma@yahoo.com)
OLD TOWN LHASA | TIBETAN & MUSLIM QUARTERS
The small alleys in the old Tibetan Quarter of Lhasa are endlessly fascinating, with an incredible variety of delicious street food near the mosque, small gompas tucked away inside the alleyways yersa gumbu on sale in many shops, fruit and vegetable markets, local shops, some boutique hotels and local handicraft shops and great photography opportunities! Don’t miss having a bowl of laphing, the spicy bean noodles with soy sauce and green onions. Delicious!
LHASA PILGRIM KORAS
BARKOR KORA
A cultural as well as religious kora around the Jokhang Temple, busy with Tibetan pilgrims with mani wheels and prayer beads at all times of the day. The Barkhor Kora is especially atmospheric during the misty mornings with incense burning in the massive incense burners, and in the evenings as the sun sets. You’ll walk with prostrating Tibetan pilgrims, collecting small donations from other Tibetans, and should stop into Meru Nyingpa Gompa at the center of the circuit. Plenty of shopping, cafes and restaurants around this fascinating kora, and Tibetans are generally dressed in their traditional chubas, striped aprons, adorned with turquoise, coral, amber, dzi beads and wearing their men’s and women’s Stetson hats. Endlessly photogenic. (20 min)
POTALA KORA
This longer pilgrim’s kora does a look of the Potala palace, and was once, like the Barkhor Kora, lined with vendors selling handicrafts, snacks + other goods. The kora is busiest in the mornings, when you’ll often see Tibetans doing their dance exercises to music! The kora is filled with the same Tibetan pilgrims and Lhasa-pa in their traditional clothes and jewelry, and passes under the small lake at the north of the Potala. (45 min)LINGKHOR KORA
The longest of the pilgrim’s koras follows a route through Lhasa, starting from Jiangsu Lu and heading to Chagpo Ri (the Iron Mountain) and the Potala Palace. Again best in the mornings with the Tibetan pilgrims, to really experience the kora’s atmosphere. (2 ½ hrs)
LHASA SHOPPING, INFO & RESTAURANTS
Dropenling Handicraft Center
Authentic Tibetan handmade crafts, very good quality and designs, not inexpensive but worth what they charge.
https://www.asianart.com/articles/dropenling/index.html
Tibetan Village Artisans
Great craft shop just past the Ani Gompa + Great Mosque, heading towards the Barkhor Kora.
Tibetan Handicrafts Tour
Inquire if interested and we can get in touch with the organizers of this wonderful handicraft tour of old Lhasa.
Tromsikhang Market
Dried fruits and nuts, local food specialties and other shopping in a big warehouse, just off the Barkor kora.
House of Shambala
A wonderful boutique hotel where you can watch local handicrafts being produced by the artisans, enjoy a drink at the bar or a good meal at the restaurant.
Guangming Kamqung Sweet Tea House
On the Barkor kora, enjoy a cup of sweet or salt-butter tea, a bowl of thukpa or steamed momos with local Lhasa-pa and Tibetan pilgrims. This is reputedly the oldest teahouse in Lhasa, a coffee-shop atmosphere of passing the time playing dice, and catching up on the news.
Barkor Supermarket
The collection of stalls once around Barkor Square, no antiques but worth a visit for some basic crafts.
Times Square & Baiyi Supermarkets
Both all-purpose supermarkets, from fruit, vegetables and foot to outdoor gear. Times Square is a block from Yak Hotel, same side of the street as Potala, food downstairs. Baiyi Supermarket is closer to Potala, opposite side of street, similar set up.
Gear Shops
Beijing North Street (heading towards Potala) on both sides. Baiyi Supermarket
Massages
Tashi Blind Massage (A block from Yak Hotel on same side as Potala)
Blind Massage (Street leading to Barkor on right)
China Mobile
Across from Baiyi Supermarket
Lhasa Restaurants & Cafes (Kamzang Favorites)
Dunya
Tibetan Family Kitchen
Snowland Restaurant
The Lark Teahouse (inside kora, near Tibetan Family Kitchen)
Old Lap Rang Tibetan Family Restaurant (last quarter of kora, inside courtyard)
Namaste Restaurant
House of Shambala
Tashi 1
LhaSa ChuFang
UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES (From UNESCO)
The Potala Palace, Lhasa
The Potala Palace, winter palace of the Dalai Lama since the 7th century, symbolizes Tibetan Buddhism and its central role in the traditional administration of Tibet. The complex, comprising the White and Red Palaces with their ancillary buildings, is built on Red Mountain in the centre of Lhasa Valley, at an altitude of 3,700m. Also founded in the 7th century, the Jokhang Temple Monastery is an exceptional Buddhist religious complex. Norbulingka, the Dalai Lama’s former summer palace, constructed in the 18th century, is a masterpiece of Tibetan art. The beauty and originality of the architecture of these three sites, their rich ornamentation and harmonious integration in a striking landscape, add to their historic and religious interest.
Enclosed within massive walls, gates and turrets built of rammed earth and stone the White and Red Palaces and ancillary buildings of the Potala Palace rise from Red Mountain in the centre of Lhasa Valley at an altitude of 3,700 metres. As the winter palace of the Dalai Lama from the 7th century CE the complex symbolizes Tibetan Buddhism and its central role in the traditional administration of Tibet. The White Palace contains the main ceremonial hall with the throne of the Dalai Lama, and his private rooms and audience hall are on the uppermost level. The palace contains 698 murals, almost 10,000 painted scrolls, numerous sculptures, carpets, canopies, curtains, porcelain, jade, and fine objects of gold and silver, as well as a large collection of sutras and important historical documents. To the west and higher up the mountain the Red Palace contains the gilded burial stupas of past Dalai Lamas. Further west is the private monastery of the Dalai Lama, the Namgyel Dratshang.
The Potala Palace symbolizes Tibetan Buddhism and its central role in the traditional administration of Tibet. Also founded in the 7th century, the Jokhang Temple Monastery is an exceptional Buddhist religious complex. Norbulingka, the Dalai Lama’s former summer palace, constructed in the 18th century, is a masterpiece of Tibetan art. The beauty and originality of the architecture of these three sites, their rich ornamentation and harmonious integration in a striking landscape, add to their historic and religious interest. Construction of the Potala Palace began at the time of Songtsen of the Thubet (Tubo) dynasty in the 7th century AD. It was rebuilt in the mid-17th century by the 5th Dalai Lama in a campaign that lasted 30 years, reaching its present size in the years that followed, as a result of repeated renovation and expansion.
The Potala is located on Red Mountain, 3700m above sea level, in the centre of the Lhasa valley. The White palace is approached by a winding road leading to an open square in front of the palace. Its central section is the East Main Hall, where all the main ceremonies take place. The throne of the Dalai Lama is on the north side of the hall, the walls of which are covered with paintings depicting religious and historical themes. At the top of the White Palace is the personal suite of the Dalai Lama. The Red Palace lies to the west of the White Palace. Its purpose is to house the stupas holding the remains of the Dalai Lamas. It also contains many Buddha and sutra halls. To the west of the Red Palace is the Namgyel Dratshang, the private monastery of the Dalai Lama. Other important components of the Potala complex are the squares to the north and south and the massive palace walls, built from rammed earth and stone and pierced by gates on the east, south and west sides.
The Jokhang Temple, Lhasa
The Jokhang Temple Monastery was founded by the regime also in the 7th century, in order to promote the Buddhist religion. It comprises an entrance porch, courtyard and Buddhist hall surrounded by accommodation for monks and storehouses on all four sides. The buildings are constructed of wood and stone and are outstanding examples of the Tibetan Buddhist style, with influences from China, India, and Nepal. They house over 3,000 images of Buddha and other deities and historical figures along with many other treasures and manuscripts. Mural paintings depicting religious and historical scenes cover the walls.
Building of the Jokhang Temple Monastery began in the 7th century CE, during the Tang dynasty in China. The Tibetan imperial court eagerly espoused Buddhism when it was introduced. The site of the Temple Monastery was selected, according to legend, when the cart in which Wen Cheng was bringing the statue of Sakyamuni sank into the mud by Wotang Lake. Divination identified this as the site of the Dragon Palace, the malign influence of which could only be counteracted by the building of a monastery. The foundation stone was laid in 647 and the first major reconstruction took place in the early 11th century. During the century following the reunification of the Tibetan kingdom by the Sakya dynasty in the mid-13th century, a number of new developments took place. These included extension of the Hall of Buddha Sakyamuni and construction of a new entrance and the Hall of Buddha Dharmapala. The Temple Monastery is in the centre of the old town of Lhasa. It comprises essentially an entrance porch, a courtyard and a Buddhist hall, surrounded by accommodation for monks and storehouses on all four sides. The buildings are constructed of wood and stone. The 7th Dalai Lama is reported to have had health problems and he used to come here for a cure.
Norbulingka, Lhasa
Norbulingka, the Dalai Lama’s former summer palace constructed in the 18th century, is located on the bank of the Lhasa River about 2km west of the Potala Palace in a lush green environment. It comprises a large garden with four palace complexes and a monastery as well as other halls, and pavilions all integrated into the garden layout to create an exceptional work of art covering 36ha. The property is closely linked with religious and political issues, having been a place for contemplation and for signing political agreements.
The construction of Norbulingka started in 1751 with the Uya Palace. Successive Dalai Lamas continued building pavilions, palaces and halls, making it their summer residence, and soon the site became another religious, political, and cultural centre of Tibet, after the Potala Palace. Norbulingka (treasure garden) is located at the bank of the Lhasa River about 2 km west of the Potala Palace. The site consists of a large garden with several palaces, halls, and pavilions, amounting to some 36 ha. The area is composed of five sections.
The site of Norbulingka was a place with gentle streams, dense and lush forest, birds, and animals known as Lava tsel. The 7th Dalai Lama is reported to have had health problems and he used to come here for a cure. The construction of Norbulingka started in 1751 with the Uya Palace, benefiting from financial assistance from the central government. Successive Dalai Lamas continued building pavilions, palaces, and halls, making it their summer residence, and soon the site became another religious, political, and cultural centre of Tibet, after the Potala Palace. The Gesang Palace was built in 1755 and included a court for debates. The Tsoje Palace and the Jensen Palace were built by the 13th Dalai Lama in the 1920s, influenced by his time in Beijing; the Gesang Deje Palace was constructed in 1926. The Tagtan Migyur Palace was built in 1954-56 with support from the Central People’s Government. Since the departure of the 14th Dalai Lama in 1959, Norbulingka has been managed first by the Culture Management Group under the Preparatory Committee of the Autonomous Region and later directly by the Cultural Management Committee and Bureau.
The Historic Ensemble, Lhasa
The historic ensemble of the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple and Norbulingka embody the administrative, religious and symbolic functions of the Tibetan theocratic government through their location, layout and architecture. The beauty and originality of the architecture of these three sites, their rich ornamentation and harmonious integration in a striking landscape.
History of Lhasa
According to historical records, construction of the Potala Palace began in the time of Songtsen Gampo of the Thubet or Tubo dynasty in the 7th century AD. It was rebuilt in the mid 17th century by the 5th Dalai Lama. It reached its present size and form in the years that foilowed, as a result of repeated renovation and expansion. Songtsen Gampo (reigned c. 609-649) played a very important role in the political, economie, and cultural development of Tibet; he also encouraged close links with central China. He united Tibet and, for political and military reasons, moved the capital from Lalong to Lhasa, where he built a palace on the Red Mountain in the centre of the city. He married Princess Tritsun (Bhrikuti) of the Nepalese Royal House and Princess Wencheng of the Chinese Tang Dynasty. 1t is recorded that his palace was an enormous complex of buildings with three defensive walls and 999 rooms, plus one on the peak of the Red Mountain.
Following the collapse of the Tubo Dynasty in the 9th century, Tibetan society was plunged into a long period of turmoil, during which the Red Mountain Palace fell into disrepair. However, it began to assume the role of a religious site. During the 12th century Khyungpo Drakse of the Kadampa sect preached there, and it was later used for the same purpose by Tshurpu Karmapa and Tsongkapa, founder of the Gelukpa sect, and his disciples.
The Gelukpa sect developed rapidly in Tibet during the 15th century, assuming the dominant place. With the help of Gushri Khan, leader of the Mongol Khoshotd tribe, the 5th Dalai Lama defeated the Karmapa Dynasty in the mid 17th century and founded the Ganden Phodrang Dynasty. The dynasty’s first seat of government was the Drepung Monastery; however, since the Red Mountain Palace bad been the residence of Songtsen Gampo and was close to the three major temples of Drepung, Sera, and Ganden, it was decided to rebuild it in arder to facilitate joint political and religious leadership. Reconstruction began in 1645, and three years later a complex of buildings with the White Palace (Phodrang Karpo) as its nucleus was completed. The 5th Dalai Lama moved there from Drepung Monastery, and ever since that time the Potala Palace bas been the residence and seat of government of succeeding Dalai Lamas.
Building of the Red Palace was begun by Sangye Gyatsho, the chief executive official of the time, eight years after the death of the 5th Dalai Lama, as a memorial to him and to accommodate his funerary stupa. It was completed four years later, in 1694, and is second in size only to the White Palace. With its construction the Potala Palace became a vast complex of palace halls, Buddha halls, and stupas. Funerary stupas (chortens) were added in memory of the 7th, 8th, 9th, and 13th Dalai Lamas, each within its own hall. The most recent is that of the 13th Dalai Lama, the building of which lasted from 1934 to 1936. Special mention should be made of the fact that the Meditation Cave of the Dharma King, situated at the top of the mountain where Songtsen Gampo is said to have studied, and the Lokeshvara Chapel, both of which preceded the building of the present Palace, have been incorporated into the complex.
Building of the Jokhang Temple Monastery began in the reign of Srong-brtsan-sgam-po XXXll in the 7th century CE, during the Tang Dynasty in China. This ruler united Tibet and moved his capital to Demon (present-day Lhasa). The Tibetan imperial court eagerly espoused Buddhism when it was introduced, and this process was intensified when Princess Bhikruti of Nepal and Princess Wen Cheng of the Tang Dynasty came to Tibet as royal consorts.
The site of the Temple Monastery was selected, according to legend, when the cart in which Wen Cheng was bringing the statue of Sakyamuni sank into the mud by Wotang Lake. The Princess used divination to identify this as the site of the Dragon Palace, the malign influence of which could only be counteracted by the building of a monastery. The foundation stone was laid in 647 and the foundations were completed within a year. In 823 the Tibetan regime and the Tang Dynasty entered into an alliance. To commemorate this event a stone was erected outside the monastery, known as the Stone Tablet of Long- Term Unity.
The first major reconstruction of the Jokhang Temple Monastery took place in the early 11th century. The Jokhang Buddhist Hall was extensively renovated and the Hall of Buddha Sakyamuni was added to its eastern side. The circumambulatory corridor around the hall was added around 1167, when the mural paintings were restored. Upward curving tiled eaves were added in the early 13th century. During the century following the reunification of the Tibetan kingdom by the Sakya Dynasty in the mid-13th century, a number of new developments took place. These included extension of the Hall of Buddha Sakyamuni, construction of a new entrance and the Hall of Buddha Dharmapala, and the introduction of sculptures of Srong-brtsan-sgam-po, Wen Cheng, and Bhikruti Devi. Buddhist halls and golden tiled roofs were added on the third storey on the east, west, and north sides. Tsongka Pa founded the reforming Gelugpa School of Tibetan Buddhism in the early 15th century, initiating the Great Prayer Festival. At his instigation part of the inner courtyard of the main Jokhang Hall was roofed.
Tibet was formally included in the Chinese domain during the Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368). In 1642 the 5th Dalai Lama, who had received an Imperial title from the Qing rulers of China, began a project of restoration that was to last thirty years. It was continued during the regency of Sangyetgyatso (1679-1703). The main entrance of the Temple Monastery, the Ten Thousand Buddha Corridor (Qianfolang), the Vendana Path, and the third and fourth storys of the main Buddhist Hall all date from this period.
Notes on Tibet
Note on Traveling in Tibet
‘Tibetians employ a lunar calendar, which would in theory assign to each month 29½ days. Since the solar year is 365¼ days, each lunar year – twelve lunar months – is 11 days too short. To make up for this, every three years an additional month is added. However, like wild cards in a poker game, the extra month can be added anywhere in the Tibetan calendar year, the position being determined by an astrological forecast indicating what would be the lucky place to add the new month. Actually, even this is a slight oversimplification. In practice Tibetans round off the lunar month to exactly thirty days, but then they go ahead and add the extra month every three years anyway. To make up the difference, certain days of the month – again decided by the official astrologers – are simply eliminated, or, if some days are thought to be particularly fortunate, they may be doubled. At the end of each year the official astrologer presents the calendar for the following year. Until then, there is no future calendar. The new year begins in February, except in those years that begin following an added month, when the year begins in March. Hence when modern historical writers on Tibet indicate that some even occurred, say in April of 619 A.D., it gives one pause for thought.
The days of the Tibetan week – seven in number – are named after the sun, the moon, and the five visible planets; Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, and Saturn. Sa is the Tibetan word for “planet” and the seven days are then names: Sa Nyi-ma [Sunday – Sun], Sa Da-wa [Monday – Moon], Sa Mik-mar [Tuesday – Mars], Sa Lak-pa [Wednesday – Mercury], Sa Pur-bu [Thursday – Jupiter], Sa Pa-sang [Friday – Venus] and Sa Pen-pa [Saturday – Saturn]. Until the eleventh century, a twelve-year calendar cycle was used; each year being named after one of the following animals: mouse, ox, tiger, hare, dragon, serpent, horse, sheep, ape, bird, dog, and hog. In the year 1027 A.D. – one hopes the historian have made the correct conversion – the Tibetans began a sixty-year cycle as advocated in the Kalacakra-Tantra, a Sanskrit religious text that was translated into Tibetan that year. To make up the sixty-year cycle, the twelve animals are combined with five elements: wood, fire, earth, iron, and water. Thus the years have colorful names like Fire-Mouse or Iron-Ape. Tibetan historical documents contain phrases like “On the thirteenth day of the eighth month of the Water-Tiger year . . .’
– ‘In the Himalayas’ – Jeremy Bernstein (1989), pp 228-229.
Kathmandu Tours
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.
Namaste!
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Kathmandu Valley Guided Sightseeing Day Tours
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Sightseeing Tour (Full Day) | Pashupatinath, Boudhanath & Swayambunath ($125)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Sightseeing Tour (Half Day) | Pashupatinath & Boudhanath ($75)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Car – No Guide (Morning or Evening) | Swayambunath ($35)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Walking Tour (Half Day) | Kathmandu Durbar Square ($50)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Tour (Half Day) | Patan Durbar Square ($65)
+ Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Sightseeing Tour (Full Day) | Bhaktapur & Changu Narayan ($135)
+ Kathmandu Valley Heritage + Craft Tour (Custom Tours)
+ Cycling Trip in Kathmandu Valley (Custom Trips)
+ Everest Express Sightseeing Flight ($225)
+ Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour (Custom Tours)
TOUR NOTE | Additional tour member + $30. Entrance fees not included.
Kathmandu Heritage Multi Day Tours & Hikes
Kathmandu Valley | Heritage Treks & Tours – Nepal
Kathmandu | Full Day World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Boudhanath, Pashupatinath & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guide, vehicles and guides as required. See Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings for more details.
We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning, and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating, when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.
Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gompas) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.
Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world renown artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.
In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self created’ stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisvatti, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings, when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox to with colorful offerings for the goddess.
Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokhari’s, or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.
+Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Kathmandu | Half Day World Heritage Patan Durbar Square Sightseeing Tour
Visit the third of Kathmandu’s ancient capitals, known as ‘The City of Fine Arts’, best if you have an extra day in hand as Patan is also rich in cultural heritage, has many lovely roof-top cafes for lunch and world-class museums. Some of the highlights of Patan are its Durbar Square, the Krishna Temple within the palace complex of Patan (entirely made of stone, with 21 distinctive spires), and Hiranya Varna Mahavir, or the Golden Buddha Temple.
+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Kathmandu Valley | Full Day World Heritage Bhaktapur & Changu Narayan Sightseeing Tour
One more day in Kathmandu, with a sightseeing excursion by private vehicle to Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur which translates as ‘Place of Devotees’ and is also known as Bhadgaon, is an ancient Newar city approximately 15 kilometers east of the Kathmandu Valley. Bhaktapur is one of three ancient capitals of the Kathmandu valley, the capital of the Newar Kingdom and a city of artisans and craftspeople famous for its art and architecture: intricate carvings, sculptures, paintings, thankas, pottery, statues and temples, or pagodas. Bhaktapur has a well-preserved ‘durbar square’, or palace square, and has been named a World Heritage site by UNESCO because of its incredible temples, pagodas, wood carvings, stone carvings and metalwork. Bhaktapur is also famous for its yogurt, called curd in Asia, a taste which hasn’t been duplicated anywhere.
Spend the day exploring Bhaktapur and its rich cultural heritage, where a majority of enthnic Newaris live in traditional ways, and life seems to stand still. There are many great restaurants and cafes to rejuvenate, and it’s possibly the best spot in Kathmandu for purchasing a thanka after watching the technique, as well as shopping for endless other locally produced crafts. Bhaktapur is home to countless local festivals, so if you are lucky and arrive on a festival day, enjoy the timeless and colorful events unfold.
You’ll also visit at Changu Narayan, a few km from Bhaktapur and one of Kathmandu’s oldest Newari temple villages. Legend has it that Changu Narayan was given to the daughter, Champak, of a Kashmiri king of Nepal when she wedded the prince of Bhaktapur. The important Vishnu temple is one of the oldest temples in all of Nepal, and was damaged during the 2015 earthquakes.
+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Everest Sightseeing Mountain Flight
An hour long extravaganza of the world’s 8000 meter peaks. Airport Transfers not Included. (+$250 or Market Price)
Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour
Inquire for prices and options for a once in a lifetime helicopter trip flying right over Everest Base Camp, Kala Pattar, the Khumbu Glacier, plus incredible views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Pumori and more! Cost per helicopter, option to stop at Everest View Hotel for an ‘Everest breakfast’. (+$Inquire for Options)
Cycling Trip Kathmandu Valley
Many options for day trips, or extended trips, in the Kathmandu Valley. We can customize a cycling trip for you in partnership with one of our knowledgeable partners in Kathmandu. (+$Inquire for Options)
Shivapuri Heights Cottages
A wonderful get away 20 km north of Kathmandu, Shivapuri Heights Cottages are stylishly designed and personal cottages built around a ‘common house’, where you can breakfast overlooking the stunningly beautiful Kathmandu valley. Massages available on request. (+$Inquire for Options)
Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! for ideas to put together the perfect journey.
We recommend Kathmandu Valley heritage tours to Bhaktapur or Patan (the Kathmandu Valley’s other historic capital cities), mountain biking, river rafting, yoga retreats, get-aways to Gorkha, Bandipur, Panauti or Namo Buddha to visit traditional hill villages, temples, monasteries and fortresses or a tour of the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas!
Everest sightseeing flight or an epic helicopter tour over Everest Base Camp, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa in Pokhara or Himalayan Front in Sarangkot, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining over Phewa Lake, a spa + wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing, luxury wildlife excursion to Chitwan National Park staying at Tharu Lodge or Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, a chic wildlife safari in Bardia National Park at Tiger Tops, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or 5-star treatment in historic Dwarika’s Heritage Hotel in Kathmandu.
Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these wonderful excursions for you!
Everest Heli Tours
Everest Helicopter Tour Kwondge | Dinner Sunset & Sunrise over Everest – Yeti Mountain Home
An epic private helicopter tour for an extra day in the spectacular Khumbu region. Sunset dinner and sunrise breakfast overlooking some of the best Himalayan views on the planet! Board your private helicopter from Namche for the quick flight to Kwongde YMH Lodge, and enjoy lunch overlooking this vast panorama of peaks. Views include some of the highest peaks on the planet, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Gyajung Khang (the highest peak under 8000m), and the majestic Ama Dambam. From the YMH Lodge, you can look down on Kwonde Lake, generally hidden, and up the awe-inspiring Khumbu valley. The Kwongde YMH (Yeti Mountain Home) is a luxury lodge, one of the world’s highest hotels in one of the Himalaya’s most dramatic locations. Your epic helicopter tour finishes back in Namche Bazaar, but you have the option to charter the helicopter back to Lukla or Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter – Namche to Namche ($1800)
+ Max 4 Passengers
+ Price Per Person Yeti Mountain Home – Breakfast + Dinner ($175)
+ Single Supplement ($75)
Everest Mountain Helicopter Sightseeing Tour | Namche to Namche | Lukla, Everest Base Camp, Cho La Pass (Gokyo Valley), Renjo La Pass (Thame Valley) & Namche
A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region’s spectacular peaks, glaciers, and Himalayan passes! Your private helicopter picks you up in Namche Bazaar, from where you will fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp, as well as the incredible Everest icefall. You will have a chance to stop on Kala Pattar for photos of this spectacular setting. Back in your helicopter, your flight path takes you over Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass, and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake, with another touch down to splash some sacred lake on yourself before crossing the Renjo La pass to the traditional Thame valley, the old trade route to Tibet. Your epic helicopter tour finishes back in Namche Bazaar, but you have the option to charter the helicopter back to Lukla or Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter ($2750) – Namche to Namche
+ Max 4 Passengers
Everest Mountain Epic Sightseeing Tour | Kathmandu to Kathmandu | Lukla, Everest Base Camp, Cho La Pass (Gokyo Valley) & Namche
The full helicopter deal, all the way from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp, and much more! A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region’s spectacular peaks, glaciers, and Himalayan passes! Your private helicopter picks you up at Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu, from where you will fly up to the fabled Tenzin Norgay airport in Lukla. After a cup of tea in Lukla, you will reboard your helicopter and fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp and the sublime Everest icefall. You will have the unique chance to stop at Everest Base camp for photos of this spectacular setting.
Back in the helicopters, your flight path takes you over beautiful Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass, and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake and down the Gokyo Valley. Your epic helicopter continues by flying back over Namche Bazaar, and back through Nepal’s lush middle hills to Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter ($5000) – Kathmandu to Kathmandu
+ Max 4 Passengers
Great Stays
BOUTIQUE & LUXURY HOTELS | KATHMANDU VALLEY
Kathmandu Guest House
Kathmandu Guest House
The Kathmandu Guest House is one of Kathmandu’s first hotels, originally a Rana Palace. Located in the heart of Thamel, the Kathmandu Guest House is a beautiful, lively hotel with a large garden and lovely outdoor cafes, centrally located in Thamel with a wide range of restaurants, cafes, yoga and shopping surrounding it. KGH offers a wide selection of rooms, including their wonderful deluxe rooms.
“Travelers know that the frenetic pace of a crowded city like Kathmandu needs an escape. The Kathmandu Guest House, a converted Rana dynasty mansion with fragrant gardens and airy corridors, has provided the peaceful refuge of choice since 1967. Since the days of being the first and only hotel in Thamel, the packed tourist district of Kathmandu, it’s become something of an institution. It’s close to everywhere and its gate is the meeting point that nobody can mistake. As a guidebook put it, “Kathmandu Guest House acts as a magnet for mountaineers, pop stars, actors and eccentric characters.” Even the Beatles stayed here in 1968. Whether you’re returning from the mountains or arriving from the airport, come and relax at the courtyard restaurant, order a cup of fine Italian coffee or a chilled Gorkha Beer, and escape for a moment in the historic surroundings of Kathmandu’s most loved guesthouse.”
Kathmandu Guest House Timeline
KGH History
Dwarika’s
Dwarika’s Hotel
Dwarika’s, Kathmandu’s premier hotel built and decorated with traditional Kathmandu valley architecture, is an oasis of calm located near the airport, where you can relax by the pool, visit the award-winning spa, enjoy the serene, historic surroundings and dine at one of their world-class restaurants.
“Dwarika’s Hotel was registered in 1977, with the idea of reviving the architectural splendour of the valley. All the terracotta work was made in the valley, using local clay and skills. The couple also incorporated elements of Nepal’s diverse cultural heritage, including those from beyond the valley, when designing the rooms. The furniture was crafted by families of traditional carpenters, and the linen, textiles and embroideries were hand woven and used Nepali patterns. In all purposes, Dwarika Das Shrestha took some of the finest elements of Nepali crafts, and presented them in a way that had not been done before. In explaining his vision, he once stated: “My project is to recreate a 15th-17th century environment where tourist and Nepali alike would have a sensation of the original. The hotel as a commercial enterprise is merely a vehicle to finance and carry my dream forward.”
History of Newari Culture in Kathmandu. Inspiration for the Heritage Architecture of Dwarika’s
Newari History in Kathmandu
History of Dwarika’s
Dwarika’s History
Dwarika’s Resort Dhulikhel
Dwarika’s Resort
A top-notch resort, with a wonderful spa, and wellness, and yoga retreats, on the Kathmandu Valley rim. “With the belief in the need for maintaining harmony between the body, mind, spirit and the planet for a peaceful, healthy and balanced life; the Dwarika’s Resort is built on the philosophy of respecting nature and self. The resort takes its inspiration from ancient Hindu Vedic scriptures (Vedas), Buddhist medicine and traditional Himalayan knowledge. The Himalayan belt has been home to holistic healing and wellbeing for more than three thousand years. The region’s approach to wellbeing, its serene natural beauty and rare medicinal herbs has attracted great sages through time. The Hindu Vedic scriptures describe Ayurveda, the science of life, as a comprehensive approach to wellbeing that encompasses the study of biology, spirituality, psychology, astronomy, nutrition and beauty. Originating from the same roots the Buddhist approaches to wellbeing also follows similar path and views health as harmony between the mind, body, spirit and one’s environment.
The resort has been designed based on the knowledge of these ancient understanding about holistic wellbeing with all the spaces being consecrated and brought to life. The lifestyle spaces within the resort are designed to attract positive energy and keep negative energy at bay. When you go around the resort you can find details we have placed in various spaces to ensure the energy within the resort is as positive as possible. For example, the resort is surrounded by Cactus (Ketuki), which is believed to cleanse the space around it of all the negative energy and attract positive energy instead. Hence, adding to the calm and nurturing environment offered within the resort. The resort also offers various activities within these spaces to enhance and add value to our guests’ experience.”
Yak & Yeti
Yak & Yeti
Yak & Yeti is one of Kathmandu’s historic 5-star hotels, steeped in history, with a lovely pool and garden, located just off Durbar Marg, a tree-lined, upscale road of shops and hotels. ” Yak & Yeti opened in 1977 as a 120 room, 5-star hotel – the first of its kind in Nepal. A new wing of an additional 150 rooms was built in harmony with the architectural features of the old palace, Lal Durbar, bringing the room total to 270. The whole hotel is a sumptuous array of beautiful artifacts, art, and traditionally crafted fixtures. Attention to detail has been meticulously considered throughout, giving the feeling you aren’t just in a hotel as much as an art gallery or museum. Over the years the hotel has been upgraded and extended and now boasts a shopping arcade, a swimming pool, two tennis courts and a state-of-the-art fitness center and luxury spa.”
Hyatt Regency
Hyatt Regency
The Hyatt is a stylish, 5-star hotel located near Boudhanath, with a large pool, a great buffet breakfast, a gym and a mix of Buddhist and Hindu decor in the lobby and rooms. “Hyatt Regency Kathmandu is a five-star luxury hotel and resort in Kathmandu, set on 37 acres of landscaped grounds and created in the traditional Newari style of Nepalese architecture. This beautiful hotel and resort is located on the road to the Boudhanath Stupa: the most holy of all Tibetan Buddhist shrines outside of Tibet and a UNESCO World Heritage Site located within a five-minute walk from the hotel. The hotel is just 4km (2.4m) from the Tribhuvan International Airport and 6 km (3.7m) from the city center of Kathmandu.”
Hotel Tibet
Hotel Tibet
“Since 1998, Hotel Tibet has set the standard for showcasing the warmth of Tibetan hospitality. Newly renovated post-COVID, we have worked towards merging modern elements with traditional Tibetan aesthetic to provide you with the utmost convenience and comfort and to make your stay with us a memorable experience. We have newly-renovated rooms, divided into deluxe, club, and suite categories that combine contemporary and traditional Tibetan designs. Our rooms are especially designed with your comfort in mind, featuring plush bedding, modern furnishings, and elegant decor.”
Dusit Princess
Dusit Princess
Kathmandu’s BEST rooftop bar, restaurant and pool. Brother of the owner of Hotel Tibet, which shares the property. “Make Dusit Princess Kathmandu your base for exploring Nepal’s vibrant capital. Comfort, value and convenience will define your stay, with warm Thai and Nepalese hospitality woven into every moment. Conveniently located in upmarket Lazimpat, the hotel has international restaurants and Narayanhiti Palace Museum on its doorstep.”
Marriott
Marriott
The Marriot was completed in 2020, located just near Nag Pokhari, with Kathmandu’s best buffet! “Retreat to Kathmandu Marriott Hotel, a 214-room contemporary hotel in the capital city of Kathmandu. Settle into spacious, well-appointed rooms and suites, many with views of the Himalayan range. Dine in our hotel restaurants, featuring International cuisine at Thamel Kitchen and Asian cuisine at Edamame. Relax at Raksi Music Bar with delicious food and beverages overlooking our waterfall terrace. Get pampered in our full-service hotel spa and salon, take a dip in our outdoor pool or work out in our 24-hour fitness center.”
Sheraton Hotel
Sheraton Hotel
One of Kathmandu’s great rooftop bars and pools! “Surrounded by the Himalayas, The Sheraton Kathmandu Hotel is conveniently located along the city’s main road, Kantipath. Once the Royal Palace for the kings of Nepal, The Narayanhiti Palace Museum is nearby as are embassies, banks and corporate offices. Tribhuvan International Airport is forty minutes away.
Kathmandu’s most popular tourist area, Thamel is located adjacent to the hotel and is filled with restaurants, bars, cafés and shops. In addition to traditional woolen items, pashmina shawls and scarves, as well as mountaineering equipment, you can savor some delightful Nepalese cuisine, including dumplings called momos, dal, and kwati, a delicious Newari curry soup made with a variety of beans.
This 20,000 SM GFA, 218-key Sheraton Hotel is located on a 6,647 SM site in the center of Kathmandu. The hotel includes food and beverage, a 900 SM banquet hall, meeting rooms, spa and gymnasium facilities and back-of-house areas.”
The Terraces
The Terraces
“The Terraces Resort and Spa is a luxury resort in Nepal, offering stunning views of the Kathmandu Valley and majestic Himalayas located near the border of Bhaktapur with easy access from Lalitpur. We provide the perfect environment to unwind, reconnect with nature and celebrate life’s special moments. Our friendly and professional staff is dedicated to catering to your every need, guiding you to discover the best of Nepal’s culture and nature through bespoke activities and tours. Immerse yourself in the historical sites of Bhaktapur or venture into the scenic landscapes of Lakuri Bhanjyang, creating unforgettable experiences that embrace the essence of Nepal. The Terraces is not just a luxury resort in Kathmandu – it is a destination where you can savor life to the fullest.
The resort, located just 16km from Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport, fuses international sensibilities with the best of what Nepal has to offer: Stunning mountain views, fresh air, wide open spaces and organic food. Each spacious room or suite comes with a terrace balcony. The only barrier between you and the beautiful world outside is floor-to-ceiling windows.”
BOUTIQUE HOTELS
There are many other boutique and character-filled hotels and guesthouses around the Kathmandu Valley. Just a few that we like listed, but this is not AT ALL an extensive list.
KATHMANDU | THREE CAPITALS
Potala Guesthouse – Thamel
Hotel Roadhouse – Thamel
Kantipur Temple House – Thamel
Nepali Ghar – Thamel
Aloft by Marriot – Thamel
Hotel Mulberry – Thamel (Pool)
1905 Suites – Nag Pokhari
Hotel Manaslu – Lazimpat
Hotel Shambala – Bainsbari – Maharajganj (Pool)
Babar Mahal Vilas – Babar Mahal
Hotel Padma – Boudhanath
Rokpa Guest House – Boudhanath
Hotel Shambaling – Boudhanath
Hotel Tibet International – Boudhanath
Hotel Lotus Gems – Boudhanath (Pool)
Cozy Nepal – Patan
Pahan Chhen – Patan
Traditional Stay Patan – Patan
The Inn Patan – Patan
Traditional Homes | Swota – Patan
Peacock Guest House – Bhaktapur
Hotel Heritage – Bhaktapur
KATHMANDU VALLEY & AROUND
The Fort Resort – Nagarkot
Hotel Mystic Mountain – Nagarkot
Gaia Holiday Home – Dhulikhel
Gokarna Forest Resort – Gokarna
Shivapuri Heights Cottages – Budhanilkanta, Shivapuri
The Old Inn – Bandipur
The Famous Farm – Nuwakot
Gorkha Gaun Resort – Gorkha
Terraces Resort – Lhakuri Bhanjyang Lamatar
Balthali Village Resort – Panauti
Park Village Resort – Budhanilkhanta (Pool)
POKHARA & AROUND
Begnas Lake Resort – Begnas Lake (Pool)
Hotel Karuna – Pokhara
Temple Tree Hotel & Spa – Pokhara (Pool)
Lakeview Resort – Pokhara
Hotel Barahi – Pokhara (Pool)
Summit River Lodge – Kurintar (Kathmandu – Pokhara Highway)
Ghale Gaun Homestay – Ghale Gaun (Near Besi Sahar)
FARMHOUSES & HOMESTAYS
Namo Buddha Resort – Namo Buddha
Herb Nepal – Bhaktapur
Nagarkot Farmhouse – Nagarkot
Srijana Farms – Tansen, Palpa
The Bosan Farmhouse – Bosan Danda
Almost Heaven Farm – Ilam
Barpeepal Bisauni Homestay – Ilam
KATHMANDU POOLS
Hyatt Regency – Boudhanath
Dwarika’s Hotel – Near Airport
Park Village Resort – Budhanilkhanta
Hotel Shanker – Lazimpat
Hotel Shambala – Bainsbari – Maharajganj
Marriott – Nag Pokhari
Yak & Yeti – Durbar Marg
Hotel Mulberry – Thamel
Photos
KIM BANNISTER PHOTOGRAPHY | HIMALAYAN TREKS, CYCLE TRIPS & TRAVELS
Kim Bannister Photography
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The Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness
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