Kharta Valley & Everest Kangshung Face
& Sacred Kailash Kora Saga Dawa Camping Trek
Tibet Himalaya Trek

Kharta Valley & Everest Kangshung Face Camping Trek & Sacred Kailash Kora Trek (Add-On 2024) – Tibet Himalaya Trekking
Day 1 – Sunday, 21 April 2024 Early Arrival Kathmandu | Passports for Chinese Visas | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! Plan to arrive on 21 April in Kathmandu as we need your passports for Chinese visas 5 full days before the trip starts with our drive to Nuwakot on the afternoon of Friday, 26 April. You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it. Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks …

Monday, 22 April – Morning Meeting @8 AM Kathmandu Guest House (Chinese Visas)
Morning meeting at 8 AM in the garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to submit our passports and photos for the Chinese visa, collect insurance information and staf tips, and go over some of our trip details and logistics. We will collect passports and photos from people as we arrive.

The next 4 days (except for Monday which you’ll need free until early afternoon) are free to explore Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley, shop, wander Thamel’s interesting streets, visit the spa, have a massage, or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. (B)

23, 24 & 25 April – Extra Days (Acclimatization, Sightseeing & Travel Options)
We are happy to help arrange trips (day or multi-day trips) for you! Visit Bhaktapur, Bandipur, Nagarkhot, Nuwakot, Pokhara, Chitwan or Bardia National Park, Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort & Spa and Shivapuri Heights. There are many options for cycling, hiking, white water rafting or touring in the Kathmandu Valley; we can point you towards craft, foodie or cultural back-street tours, or can arrange for a Nepali cycling guide show you Kathmandu Valley’s best mountain biking. Spend a night at a Boudhanath hotel and enjoy the atmospheric evening pilgrimage koras, or at a boutique heritage hotel in Patan. We’ll arrange a wonderful morning Everest sightseeing flight, or an epic Everest helicopter tour!

Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing Tours
The day is free to explore Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley, shop, wander Thamel’s interesting streets, visit the spa, have a massage, or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants.

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Day 2 – Drive Nuwakot | The Famous Farm 1010m
We’ll leave the Kathmandu Guest House later in the afternoon, once Lhakpa has collected our Chinese visas, for the drive to Nuwakot where we stay at the wonderful Famous Farm! Driving north through Tokha, we ascend, skirt the eastern fringe of Shivapuri National Park and descend to the Trisuli River where meet Pasang Lhamo Highway. At Betrawoti Bazaar, we head north for another 10 km to reach The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, a heritage (renovated) Newari hotel high up in the hills above the Trisuli. We arrive in time for a fabulous sunset, with beers and dinner later, around a wood fire.

Nearby is Nuwakot Palace, constructed by Prithvi Narayan Shah, Nepal’s first king, in the 18th century. The palace has been in the long process of renovations after being almost completely destroyed in the 2015 earthquakes, and is a UNESCO tentative historical site. “The current main palace was built after Prithivi Narayan Shah conquered Nuwakot in 1745. After the victory of Nuwakot, he relocated the capital from Gorkha to Nuwakot considering it to an appropriate location for the continuation of unification campaign. The palace has seven stories and thus is also called ‘Sat-talle-durbar’ (‘seven storied palace’) by locals. The ground floor was built to keep courtiers and guards. The main meeting room (baitakh), prayer room and living room (shrinagar kakshya) is located on the first floor, the room for the king and queen on the second floor, a prayer room on the third floor, and the armies and guards stayed on the fourth floor. There was a prison on the fifth and sixth floor, where the King of Tanahu, Tri Bikaram Sen, and the King of Kirtipur, Bal Narsingh, were imprisoned. The seventh floor was used as a burja.

The palace imitates the architecture style of Kathmandu, and craftsmen from Lalitpur were used to construct the palace. The roof uses glazed tile, the main door faces towards east, and the palace is built in the form of fortress with 6′ thick walls. Carved windows (aankhi jhyal) are built into various floors. On south-east side of the main palace lies the Ranga Mahal (theatre), constructed in 1726 as the annex of the main palace. The kings of Kathmandu valley also used it for entertainment when they arrived Nuwakot. On eastern side of the main palace lies a guard house (Garad Ghar) where armed force and ammunitions were stationed. On the north-east side is the house of King Rana Bahadur Shah, built in 1795, destroyed in 1957, and reconstructed during the rein of King Mahendra. Lampati, which used to be the palace of Patan’s king, is located adjacent to the Bhairavi Temple. It has two floors with glazed tile in the roof, and currently used as a museum. Around the palace are the Bhairabi Temple (200m south of the main palace), the Narayan and Bishnu Temples (located on the eastern side of the main palace near the Garad Ghar, constructed during the Malla period of Malla. An inscription of Ripu Malla, dating back to 1498, was found at the temple), the Taleju Bhawani Temple (located about 150 meters from the main palace over a small hill, also constructed by the Mallas as Taleju is regarded as the ancestral deity of Mallas. The temple is five storied and the construction date is unknown although it’s believed that it may have been built around 1400s), and the Buddha Stupa (located on the northern side, the original construction date unknown but according to the inscription on the stupa, it was renovated by Prithivi Narayan Shah in 1773).” – Wikipedia (D)
Distance Driving: 80 km (3 hrs)

Day 3 – Drive Rasuwa Ghadi 1814m & Kyirong, Tibet 2700m | Cross Nepal Tibet Border
We have a straight drive north, ascending on a circuitous road as we leave the warmer climes of Nuwakot behind and head for Tibet. We drive past Ramche Bazaar, Dhunche, Syabru Besi and Timure in the Rasuwa (Langtang) region of Nepal to reach the border of Nepal at Rasuwa Ghadi. Rasuwa Ghadi is a relatively newly opened border for foreigners, used for trade between Nepal and Tibet during the earthquake, by Everest expeditions and by local Nepalis and Tibetans. Once through immigration in a sub-tropical part of Tibet, we meet our jeep and Tibetan guide and begin our drive to Lhasa. We head north through a densely wooded canyon, damp, atmospheric and cloud-saturated, to reach Kyirong, once a major trading post in Tibet, where we stay at a hotel for the night. The one saving grace of this now completely Chinese town is the Kyirong Monastery just near the hotel. (B, L)

ALTITUDE ADVICE | We strongly advise taking 125-250 mg of Diamox before driving up to the Tibetan plateau. Take either 125 or 250 mg tonight and one tomorrow morning, and then continue for a day or so until we discuss further in Lhasa. 

Day 4 – Drive Shigatse 3850m | Visit Tashi Lhunpo Monastery & Shigatse Fort
Continuing our drive through western Tibet, we follow Kyirong Chu river, which flows into the Trishuli River in Nepal, passing through more canyons and ending up in green, forested countryside. Continuing to ascend, the landscape changes dramatically, the skies become clearer, and the landscape begins to resemble the high altitude deserts of the Tibetan plateau.

Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet and is home to perhaps the best preserved and most controversial monastery in Tibet, Tashi Lhunpo Gompa. This Gelugpa monastery, administered by the Panchen Lama, the second most important lama in Tibet, is one of the largest functioning monasteries in Tibet, and there is much to explore within its surrounding walls. We will take a few hours for a visit to Tashi Lhunpo, perhaps doing a kora and look over to the massive Shigatse Fort. After visiting Tashi Lhunpo, we’ll have dinner at a nearby restaurant owned by the same people that own our hotel. 

‘In the 19th century, the ‘Tashi’ or Panchen Lama had temporal power over Tashi Lhunpo Monastery and three small districts, though not over the town of Shigatse itself, which was administered by two Dzongpön (prefects) appointed from Lhasa. Before military conflict between the PRC’s People’s Liberation Army and the Central Tibetan Administration, the Tibetan territory was divided into 53 prefecture districts called Dzongs. There were two Dzongpöns for every Dzong—a lama (Tse-dung) and a layman. They were entrusted with both civil and military powers and are equal in all respects, though subordinate to the generals and the Chinese Amban in military matters. However, there were only one or two Ambans representing the Chinese emperor residing in Lhasa, directing a little garrison, and their power installed since 1728, progressively declined to end-up as observer at the eve of their expulsion in 1912 by the 13th Dalai Lama. In 1952, shortly after the PRC sent forces to the region, Shigatse had a population of perhaps 12,000 people, making it the second largest city in Tibet.’ – Wikipedia. (B, L) (Manasarovar Hotel)
Distance Driving: 93m

Day 5 – Drive Lhasa 3650m | Barkhor Koras Evening Walk!
Leaving Shigatse, we have a beautiful drive through green countryside, following the Nyang Chu past barley fields, grazing goats and small villages surrounded by snow peaks heading to Lhasa! We check in to our Tibetan-owned Yak Hotel, situated near the Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Square, where the character of the old city is still quite Tibetan. Welcome to Lhasa, the ‘City of the Gods’, or ‘Sunlight City’, due to the 3000 hours of sunshine yearly …

In the evening, have a walk to the Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Kora, do some koras with the Tibetan pilgrims from around Tibet as well as local Lhasa-pa in the intense late afternoon light, endlessly photogenic and always a very powerful experience. Another atmospheric time of day to walk the Barkhor Kora is before breakfast, with the chill still in the air and juniper incense from the burners wafting up into the clear, Tibetan air. There has been a lot of change in ‘old Lhasa’ in the past 20 years, including the removal of the Tibetan vendors that used to line the Barkhor Square Kora, security gates to enter the Jokhang Barkhor region, the installation of ‘modern’ (Chinese) old style street lamps, Chinese shops and pseudo-Tibetan shops run by Chinese, but this part of Lhasa still retains some of its old world, Central Asian charm. Afternoons are free to wander the endlessly fascinating bazaars of old Lhasa, walk koras around the Potala Palace with the myriad Tibetan pilgrims, or sit in front the Jokhang in the intense afternoon light, immersing yourself in the exoticism of Lhasa.

Some of our favorite restaurants and cafes are Dunya (right next door to the hotel), Makye Ame (along the Barkor Kora), Tibetan Family Kitchen (behind Jokhang, in a small alleyway), Old Lap Rang Tibetan Family Restaurant (last quarter of kora, inside), House of Shambala (back streets of Barkor), Ganglamedo (across the street from the hotel) & Western Cafe (just around the corner towards Barkor) although there are many and it’s fun to explore the Tibetan section of Lhasa. Namaste, Tashi 1 and Snowland also get good marks. Great street eats to be found near the mosque on the opposite side of the Jokhang Temple along the Barkor Kora. (B) (Yak Hotel)
Distance Driving: 

Days 6 & 7 – Lhasa
Lhasa! We have a few wonderful days to wander the streets of the Tibetan section of Lhasa, and continue with our exploring of Lhasa and the Lhasa Kyichu Valley’s Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and the iconic Potala Palace, home to the Dalai Lamas.

Over the following three days we visit some of the most important sites in and around Lhasa with our Tibetan guide. Late afternoons will be free for you to discover the endlessly fascinating bazaars, walk koras around the Jokhang with the myriad other pilgrims, or sit in the Barkor square, immersing yourself in the smoky exoticism and history of Lhasa, once a major stop on the ancient Silk Route.

Our sightseeing in Lhasa might be arranged slightly differently, depending on the availability of entrance tickets to the various monasteries and sights. See the Lhasa tab for full information on sightseeing, shopping, koras and eating in Lhasa! (B) (Yak Hotel)

Lhasa Monasteries, Palaces & Sights
Jokhang Temple & Barkhor Square Kora
The holiest gompa (temple) in Tibet, revered by Tibetans of all sects though officially Gelugpa, shelters the sacred Jowo Sakyamuni statue and was recently partially destroyed by a massive fire (2018), though rebuilt. Jokhang’s architectural style is a mixture of Indian vihara, Tibetan and Nepalese design. Shuffle among the pilgrims, butter lamps permeating the air, and find gruesome Gods in hidden annexes. There is always a procession of devout Tibetans through the complex. After walking the holy inner circle, complete a circuit (kora) of the Barkhor, the market surrounding the Jokhang, for good karma. It is the best market to shop for all things Tibetan, and just about anything else you ever wanted.

“The Jokhang was founded during the reign of King Songtsen Gampo. According to tradition, the temple was built for the king’s two brides: Princess Wencheng of the Chinese Tang dynasty and Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal. Both are said to have brought important Buddhist statues and images from China and Nepal to Tibet, which were housed here, as part of their dowries. The oldest part of the temple was built in 652. Over the next 900 years, the temple was enlarged several times with the last renovation done in 1610 by the Fifth Dalai Lama. Following the death of Gampo, the image in Ramcho Lake temple was moved to the Jokhang temple for security reasons. When King Tresang Detsen ruled from 755 to 797, the Buddha image of the Jokhang temple was hidden, as the king’s minister was hostile to the spread of Buddhism in Tibet. During the late ninth and early tenth centuries, the Jokhang and Ramoche temples were said to have been used as stables. In 1049 Atisha, a renowned teacher of Buddhism from Bengal taught in Jokhang.

Around the 14th century, the temple was associated with the Vajrasana in India. In the 18th century the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing dynasty, following the Gorkha-Tibetan war in 1792, did not allow the Nepalese to visit this temple and it became an exclusive place of worship for the Tibetans. During the Chinese development of Lhasa, the Barkhor Square in front of the temple was encroached. During the Cultural Revolution, Red Guards attacked the Jokhang temple in 1966 and for a decade there was no worship. Renovation of the Jokhang took place from 1972 to 1980. In 2000, the Jokhang became a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an extension of the Potala Palace (a World Heritage Site since 1994). Many Nepalese artists have worked on the temple’s design and construction.” – Wikipedia

Drepung, Nechung & Sera Monasteries
Sera is one of the best preserved monasteries in Tibet, renown for its lively debating sessions in the courtyard each afternoon. Within its whitewashed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study. Drepung was founded in the 14th century and was once the largest gompa in the world with a population of around 10,000 monks. These days the figure has been reduced to several hundred, but there is still much of interest to see here, as the structure escaped relatively unscathed during the Cultural Revolution. Just below Drepung is the tantric monastery of Nechung, referred to as ‘ the Demon Fortress of the Oracle King’. This interesting monastery was the seat of the State Oracle until the Dalai Lama fled Tibet in 1959. The oracle became possessed by the protector deity Pehar and acted as a mouthpiece for the deity, often not having knowledge of what he said. The position of oracle came from the older Bon tradition.

Potala Palace
The magnificent white, black, red and gold Potala Palace dominates the skyline of Lhasa. It was the winter quarters of the Dalai Lama, housing jewel-encrusted gold and silver stupas of previous Dalai Lamas, numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.

“The residence of the Dalai Lama until the 14^th Dalai Lama fled to India during the 1959 Tibetan uprising. It is now a museum and World Heritage Site. The palace is named after Mount Potalaka, the mythical abode of the bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. The 5^th Dalai Lama started its construction in 1645 after one of his spiritual advisers, Konchog Chophel, pointed out that the site was ideal as a seat of government, situated as it is between Drepung and Sera monasteries and the old city of Lhasa. It may overlay the remains of an earlier fortress called the White or Red Palace on the site, built by Songtsen Gampo in 637. (The substantial structure has) copper poured into the foundations to help proof it against earthquakes. Thirteen storys of buildings, containing over 1000 rooms, 10,000 shrines and about 200,000 statues, soars 117m on top of Marpo Ri, the “Red Hill …). Tradition has it that the three main hills of Lhasa represent the “Three Protectors of Tibet”. Chokpori, just to the south of the Potala, is the soul-mountain of Vajrapani, Pongwari that of Manjusri, and Marpori, the hill on which the Potala stands, represents Avalokiteśvara.” – Wikipedia

Ramoche Gompa
Just north of the Barkhor, at the end of the road to the right of Dunya Restaurant and the Yak Hotel on the left of the busy shopping road. “Ramoche is considered the sister temple of the Jokhang, completed about the same time. Tradition says that it was built originally to house the much revered Jowo Rinpoche statue, carried to Lhasa via Lhagang in a wooden cart, brought to Tibet when Princess Wencheng came to Lhasa. Unlike the Jokhang, Ramoche was originally built in Chinese style. During Mangsong Mangtsen’s reign (7^th c), because of a threat that the Tang Chinese might invade, Princess Wencheng is said to have had the statue of Jowo Rinpoche hidden in a secret chamber in the Jokhang. Princess Jincheng, sometime after 710, had it placed in the central chapel of the Jokhang. It was replaced at Ramoche by a statue of Jowo Mikyo Dorje, a small bronze statue of the Buddha when he was eight years old, crafted by Vishvakarman, and brought to Lhasa by the Nepalese queen, Bhrikuti. It is said to have been badly damaged by the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution.

The temple was badly damaged during the Mongol invasions and there is no certainty that the statue that remained in 1959 was the original one. The original temple was destroyed by fire, and the present three-storied building was constructed in 1474. Soon after it became the Assembly Hall of the Gyuto Tratsang, or Upper Tantric College of Lhasa and was home to 500 monks. There was a close connection with Yerpa which provided summer quarters for the monks.” – Wikipedia

Norbulingka Summer Palace
Norbulingka is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, set in a quiet and relaxing garden which used to house the Dalai Lama’s pets. One particularly interesting mural inside depicts the history of Tibet and all the Dalai Lamas.

Ani Tsarkhung (Canggu) Nunnery
This lovely nunnery is tucked away between the Muslim Great Mosque and vegetable corner of the old city, on the furthest kora around the the Barkor. The yellow ani gompa, with an open courtyard, houses about 100 nuns. The Ani Tsarkhung Nunnery (tshamkhang means place for spiritual retreat) was built in the 7^th c by Songsten Gampo, who used its meditation chamber, a spot which is now a sacred spot behind the nunnery. Since the 12^th c, the monastery has been used mainly by Buddhist nuns, who support themselves through alms and manufacturing items such as clothing and printed texts. Its main assembly hall contains a beautiful image of Chenrezi, the multi-armed bodhisattva of Compassion.

“As a public nunnery, Canggu Nunnery focuses on passing on and promoting ceremonies and rituals of believing Goddess of Mercy and Buddha Tara. All the nuns are chanting by sutra recitation hall at 8:00 every morning. Then a professional ceremony lasts until about 4 pm … In addition to its unique religious dedication, Canggu Nunnery is popular among local residents also because it manages to raise funds by itself … The nunnery (also) runs a clinic. It employs experienced medical professionals as doctors and some of its nuns who know some medical knowledge as assistants. For years the clinic served the local residents, and because of their kindness, patience and consideration for the people, they are much trusted by the locals. In addition, the nunnery runs a small shop selling petty commodities that are both trustworthy quality and price.

The nunnery also runs a tea house looking on the street, and a small tea garden hiding inside. Everyday, many travelers who come to Barkhor Street to pray, burn joss sticks and stroll around would take a rest under the big umbrellas at the tea house, and have a taste of “Qia A Mao”, a sweet tea made of milk, sugar and black tea, Tibetan noodles or steamed stuffed buns made by the nuns.” – China Highlights

Phabonkha Monastery
About 10 km out of Lhasa, this 1300 year old monastery is one of the Lhasa region’s first buildings, and was founded by Songsten Gampo in the 7^thc.  “Although originally the site of his castle or fort, the Tibetan Annals have revealed that Pabonka was converted into a monastery, possibly under the reign of the second great Buddhist king of Tibet Trisong Detsen. Trisong Detsen, along with Guru Rinpoche and the first seven monks of the new Tibetan Empire, used to meditate at the hermitage and it became one of Tibet’s very earliest Buddhist monasteries, possibly even pre-dating Jokhang. The original nine-storied monastery was partially destroyed by King Langdharma in 841 during his campaign to destroy monastic Buddhism. It was rebuilt in the 11th century as a two-storied structure that housed 200 monks.” – Wikipedia

Muru Sarpa (New) Gompa
This smaller monastery is related to Maru Nyimpa Gompa, and is locate across the street from Gyan Gyen Hotel, with a printing press. There is anothermonastery just past this one called Gyume Gompa

Barkhor Kora Sights
Jampa (Maitreya) Monastery
A small atmospheric gompa in the middle of the Barkhor kora, access from the eastern side of the kora. There is a protector deities shrine where barley beer and chang are offered to the protector deities. Pilgrims circle the large prayer wheel just in front, and you may hear pilgrims chanting inside the prayer wheel room. The gompa is a bright yellow building just in back of the prayer wheel, with Muru Ngingpa Gompa just behind.

Muru Nyingpa (Old) Gompa
Muru Nyingba Gompa was the Lhasa seat of the former State Oracle, who had his main residence at Nechung Monastery. It is said that Emperor Songtsen Gampo built the first building here, and it is where the great Tibetan scholar, Thonmi Sambhota completed his work developing the Tibetan alphabet in the first half of the 7^th c. The present building, first constructed during the reign of King Ralpacan in the 9th century, is built like an Indian vihara around a courtyard, with the lhakang to the north and the monks quarters on the three other sides. The gompa was destroyed during the persecution of Buddhism under Langdarma in the 9^th c, but rebuilt by Atisha (980-1054) and became Gelugpa under the Third Dalai Lama, Sonam Gyatso (1543–1589). It became the Lhasa residence of the Nechung Oracle in the 17^th c, the oracle who was possessed by Pehar in his trances.

Barkhor & Old Lhasa Back Alleys Walk
From the alley just before Gyan Gyen Hotel, take a left towards the Jokhang Temple and pass House of Shambala, a boutique hotel with a great little downstairs bar and a craft shop, on the right. Continue past several shops selling baskets with leather trim, wooden butter containers, Buddhist statues and dyed textiles amongst the other mostly Chinese shops and teashops. If you head to the right, you will eventually reach Makye Ame restaurant on the Barkhor Kora. Take the left alley back out of the kora to reach Dropenling craft shop, and then the Muslim section of the old city, filled with vegetable and food vendors, homemade noodles, meat shops, and the Great Mosque of Tibet. Continue past the mosque, and take the alley to the left to reach the atmospheric Ani Tsarkhung (Canggu) Nunnery and the wonderful Tibetan Village Artisans craft shop.

Re-enter the Barkhor Kora and have a snack and a glass of sweet tea at the Guangming Kamqung Sweet Tea House, up a set of diagonal steps, just before making the last turn back to the Jokhang Temple. Spend the late afternoon watching the Tibetan pilgrims doing their devotional prostrations in front of Tibet’s most sacred temple.

Heading away from the Jokhang Temple, head back into the bustle of Tibetan pilgrims, pass the shops selling Buddhist goods, and visit the inner Jampa and Muru Temples, inside the kora just past the front of the Jokhang. As you leave the Barkhor kora heading back to the hotel, pass through the large covered market (meats, butter, vegetables and local goods), and continues past a street with several shops selling horse gear, including a Tibetan man with real antique tackle, blankets and woven bags.

Old Town Lhasa | Tibetan & Muslim Quarters
The small alleys in the old Tibetan Quarter of Lhasa are endlessly fascinating, with an incredible variety of delicious street food near the mosque, small gompas tucked away inside the alleyways yersa gumbu on sale in many shops, fruit and vegetable markets, local shops, some boutique hotels and local handicraft shops and great photography opportunities! Don’t miss having a bowl of laphing, the spicy bean noodles with soy sauce and green onions. Delicious!

Lhasa Pilgrim Koras
Barkhor Kora
A cultural as well as religious kora around the Jokhang Temple, busy with Tibetan pilgrims with mani wheels and prayer beads at all times of the day. The Barkhor Kora is especially atmospheric during the misty mornings with incense burning in the massive incense burners, and in the evenings as the sun sets. You’ll walk with prostrating Tibetan pilgrims, collecting small donations from other Tibetans, and should stop into Meru Nyingpa Gompa at the center of the circuit. Plenty of shopping, cafes and restaurants around this fascinating kora, and Tibetans are generally dressed in their traditional chubas, striped aprons, adorned with turquoise, coral, amber, dzi beads and wearing their men’s and women’s Stetson hats. Endlessly photogenic. (20 min)

Potala Kora
This longer pilgrim’s kora does a look of the Potala palace, and was once, like the Barkhor Kora, lined with vendors selling handicrafts, snacks and other goods. The kora is busiest in the mornings, when you’ll often see Tibetans doing their dance exercises to music! The kora is filled with the same Tibetan pilgrims and Lhasa-pa in their traditional clothes and jewelry, and passes under the small lake at the north of the Potala. (45 min)

Lingkhor Kora
The longest of the pilgrim’s koras follows a route through Lhasa, starting from Jiangsu Lu and heading to Chagpo Ri (the Iron Mountain) and the Potala Palace. Again best in the mornings with the Tibetan pilgrims, to really experience the kora’s atmosphere. (2 ½ hrs)

Day 8 – Drive Yamdrok Tso (Lake) 4450m & Gyantse 3980m | Cross Khamba La 4790m, Karo La 5060m & Simi La 4350m | Visit Gyantse Kumbum, Monastery & Gyantse Fort | Optional Ralung Gompa
Our jeep safari through Tibet heading towards Kharta valley and the Kangshung Face of Everest begins! Leaving the bustle of Lhasa, we drive along a scenic, willow and popular lined and paved road following the Lhasa Chu (River) past small Tibetan villages, with freshly planted barley fields, passing the turnoff to Nyethang Drolma Lhakang (Gompa) about 30 km out of Lhasa. En route, we pass Tibetans on leather-studded motorcycles, steering horse carts, or on foot performing prostrations to sacred pilgrimage spots. These days most of the traffic is Chinese-made Mercedes, VWs, Land Rovers and other expensive cars manufactured in China. The roads following the Lhasa Chu are good, adorned with lung-ta (Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags). We pass through a tunnel and then crossing the wide river on a new bridge, reaching the intersection of the Yarlung Sangpo and continuing to follow this masive river for the rest of the day. We’ll drive past Shedrukling Gompa, a Gelugpa monastery with apparently questionable teachings and no resident lama. Look for brown-headed gulls on the river. Passing Changthang village, we switchback 1200 meters up the Khamba La pass (4790m) (over about 23 kilometers) to overlook the turquoise Yamdrok Tso (lake) far below. Yamdrok Tso is one of the four holy lakes of Tibet, shaped like a crab and home to wrathful deities, a spectacular site. Be ready to have your photo taken at the top of the pass with yaks, Tibetan mastiffs and goat by enterprising Tibetans, and perhaps hang some Buddhist prayer flags on top of the pass.

After a long switchback down the pass towards Yamdrok Tso, we stop for lunch just above the lake, near the village of Yamdrok. We continue to drive along the river side road through the fertile plain of the Nyang River valley, a traditional vignette around every corner and migratory birds feeding near the lake. At the end of the lake we’ll make a turn around the last finger of the lake, heading left at Baidi and heading to Nakartse. We pass small villages as we drive up the prayer flag adorned Karo La (5060m), sight of the highest battlefield of the 20th century war with the British. The Karo La cuts a path between Himalayan glaciers. A fast descent past a melting glacier on the right leads to a beautiful, green valley peppered with small Tibetan villages, with peaks in the near distance.

Optional Visit Ralung Gompa 4750m
If time permits, we’ll visit Ralung Monastery. Approximately 15 monks reside at Ralung Gompa, which was founded in 1830. The monastery, the traditional seat of the Drukpa school of Kargyu Buddhism, was mostly destroyed during the cultural revolution, and is filled with atmosphere and history. Have a look down at the ruins of the old stupa and monastery complex from the rooftop. The monasterie’s name originated from the self-emanating goat (ra in Tibetan), and the fact that it’s surrounded by mountains, and the Shabdrung Rimpoche of Bhutan was the 18th abbot of this monastery. Rejoining to the main road 5 km below the gompa, we cross our third pass of the day, the Simi La (4348m), a pass overlooking the dammed Yarlung Sangpo. There is a lookout at the pass, interesting to look down on an old fortress or customs tower and the dammed river.

Driving through green, incredibly beautiful countryside, we pass through more traditional Tibetan villages and newly planted, checkered fields. Passing through two police check posts, we reach the outskirts of the historic city of Gyantse. We check into the Yeti Hotel, a great hotel with a wonderful restaurant and friendly staff, and head out for a walk around town to stretch our legs. Gyantse, strategically located in the Nyang Chu valley, was once part of an ancient trade route from the Chumbi Valley, Yatung and Sikkim. From Gyantse, trade routes led south to Shigatse and also over the Karo La into Central Tibet. The Gyantse Dzong (fort), built in 1390, guarded the southern approaches to the Yarlung Tsangpo Valley and Lhasa, and the town was surrounded by a long, protective wall 3 kilometers in length. Part of this wall still survives and is a dramatic backdrop for photos. Gyantse was once the third largest city in Tibet but was overtaken by Younghusband and the British in 1904. During the fierce battle, Tibetan forces fought the British for most of two months with dire consequences for both sides. (See ‘Younghusband’ by Patrick French).

We’ll visit the 15^th century Palkor Chode Monastery and the magnificent Kumbum, translated as ‘100,000 images’, the largest chorten in Tibet. Kumbum was commissioned by a Gyantse prince in 1427 and was an important center of the Sakya school. It still contains 77 chapels within its six floors and is illustrated with over 10,000 murals, many still intact and exhibiting a strong Nepali influence, the last of their kind to be found in Tibet.

‘The town of Gyantse was nearly destroyed by flooding in 1954, and after rioting in 1959, local industries were dismantled and artisans fled while others were placed in workcamps. Some 400 monks and laypeople were imprisoned in the monastery. During the Cultural Revolution the fort, the monastery and Kumbum were ransacked. Precious objects were destroyed or sent out of Tibet. Fortunately, the chorten was spared. The main building of the Pelkor Chode or Palcho Monastery and the Kumbum have been largely restored but the dzong or fort is still largely in ruins but there is an Anti-British Imperialism Museum there which gives the Chinese version of the 1904 British invasion.’ – Wikipedia. (B, L)
Distance Driving: 265km

Day 9 – Drive Shegar 4355m | Cross Tha La 4050m, Tso La (Yulung La) 4520m & Gyatso La (Lhakpa La) 5230m | via Shalu Gompa. Visit Shegar Fort & Shegar Gompa
Driving along beautiful Ra Chu River, we pass Tashi Lhunpo and cross the Tha La (4050m), a barely noticeable pass, followed a bit later by the Tso La (Yulung La) pass, where we’re rewarded with spectacular Himalayan views. Driving past scenic Tibetan villages, we reach the dusty, busy market town of Lhatse (4012m), the crossroads to sacred Mount Kailash in far western Tibet. Note the statue of the dancing and singing Tibetans just before reaching Lhatse.

After lunch in a local restaurant in Lhatse, we cross the Gyatso La (Lhakpa La on some maps), where we’ll have our first views of Everest. Yaks graze on the hillsides, dotted with local Tibetan doksas. The pass is a wide, busy road, with vendors and a mass of prayer flags, not notable except for the vast Himalayan vistas. We’ll enjoy the long descent towards Shegar, one of the gateways to Everest Base Camp (the other being Tingri).

En route, we turn on a lovely, small road for 3 km to visit Shalu Gompa (3890m). Shalu was founded in 1040, the first of Tibet’s monasteries to be built by a noble family, and packs more culture and atmosphere than most of Tibet’s more visited monasteries. The monastery, of the Sakya tradition, was renown for its incredible murals, and was a center of scholarly learning. Returning back to the road, we soon reach the city limits of Shigatse, previously known as Samdruptse, where we will check into Manasoravar Hotel.

We’ll drive the 7 km to visit Shegar Fort and Shegar Gompa for those who are interested. The site has been unbelievably developed during the past few years, and retains little of the charm or atmosphere of the old ‘Old Shegar’, but is worth a visit to see the wonderful, old Shegar Monastery (4420m) on top of a hill, one side dropping down to the fields far below. We will stay at a hotel in Shegar, our last of this section of the trip. (B, L, D)
Distance Driving: 236km

Day 10 – Drive Kharta Qu 3690m | Cross Pang La 5150m
Ten kilometers past Shegar we divert from the main highway and drive south towards the Tibetan side of the Everest region and the Kangshung Face of Everest. From the top of Pang La, we gain spectacular views of Everest and the surrounding countryside, a checker of textures and colors. From the pass, we descend to the village of Phadhruchi where the jeep track divides; the road to the west leads to the Rongbuk Valley, and the road to the east leading to the (Phung Chu) Arun Valley and the village of Kharta, the administrative headquarters of the region. We’ll set up camp near Kharta Qu while our Tibetan guide, Kim & Lhakpa work with the authorities to procure our yaks for the trek …

Kangshung Face of Everest
“The Kangshung Face is the eastern-facing side of Mount Everest on the Tibetan sides of the mountain. It is 3350 meters (11,000′) from its base on the Kangshung Glacier to the summit. It is a broad face, topped on the right by the upper Northeast Ridge, on the left by the Southeast Ridge and the South Col. Most of the upper part of the face is composed of hanging glaciers, while the lower part consists of steep rock buttresses with couloirs between them. The steep southern third of the Kangshung Face also comprises the Northeastern Face of Lhotse; this section may be considered a separate face altogether following the division of the South ‘Neverest’ Buttress up to the South Col. It is considered a dangerous route of ascent, compared to the standard North Col and South Col routes, and it is the most remote face of the mountain, with a longer approach.

The eastern side of the mountain was relatively unknown to the outside world until the 20th century, owing to the complex and isolated terrain and climate of Tibet, and Buddhist reverence for the mountains prohibiting their ascent. In 1921, George Mallory and Guy Bullock were the first Westerners to witness and survey the Kangshung Face, as a part of the initial 1921 British reconnaissance expedition which had, for the first time ever, gained permission from the Dalai Lama of Tibet to attempt ascents of Everest. Mallory and Bullock were led by local yak herders to the east side the mountain, passing through the Langma La and the rhododendron forests of Kama Chu. 

In 1980, a young American climber, Andy Harvard, undertook a modern reconnaissance of the East Face. A 1981 American attempt led by Richard Blum and Louis Reichardt, including Edmund Hillary, George Lowe, John Roskelley and Kim Momb made progress on the steep rock buttresses, but aborted at around 7000 meters due to high avalanche danger. The first successful ascent of the Kangshung Face was made in 1983 by an American expedition led by James D. Morrissey. After five and a half weeks of effort, Kim Momb, Carlos Buhler, and Louis Reichardt summited on 8 October 1983. George Lowe, Dan Reid and Jay Cassell summited the next day. In 1988, an American & British expedition climbed a new route up the South Buttress on the face to reach the South Col, with a finish to the summit via the standard Southeast Ridge. Stephen Venables, became the first Briton to summit without the use of bottled oxygen. Ed Webster & Robert Anderson (USA) made it to the South Summit but did not reach the summit. Paul Teare (Canada) made it to the South Col, but descended because he was feeling unwell. In 1992 a Chilean expedition successfully climbed this route being the second expedition to do it. Kangshung face is where Lincoln Hall was found alive after he was left for dead on his 2006 expedition to summit Mount Everest.

To climb the face, the 3 kilometer (2 mi) wide base of the wall must be surpassed by climbing up either the deep gashes of avalanche-swept gullies or the vertical, overhanging rock buttresses, full of deadly ice towers and unsteady snow. Since the crux of the route is near the bottom, retreat is more difficult, making the climb more committing; the relative isolation of the face and probable lack of other climbers also add to the commitment factor. The hanging glaciers and snow slopes pose a large risk of avalanches, especially in the case of a storm, adding to the objective danger of the route. Taking into account these challenges, George Mallory noted in his expedition book: “Other men, less wise, might attempt this way if they would, but, emphatically, it was not for us.” – Wikipedia (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.6km

Day 11 – Trek Damphu 4290m or Changtang (Rabuk) Camp 3990m
Our trek into the Kharta Valley begins! We trek along the Dambuk Chu river valley, initially following a jeep trail, passing Yulok and Yulba, settlements of stone houses amid rich barley fields which contrast with the stark hillsides. Tibetan women dressed in their colorfully striped aprons, chubas, turquoise, coral and amber necklaces, and hair ornaments, dzi stones and silver belt fasteners still carry their small children in woven bamboo baskets, although fields are tilled using more modern equipment these days. When the valley narrows the trail divides, the right path leading to the Langma La which we return on; instead we head left and begin climbing along the Sha-u La route to the first possible camping spot near a stream, a two hour hike. Our trail continues to ascend, as we climb through saturated green landscapes, with prayer flags, katas and cairns marking the end of the steeper section. Soon afterwards we reach a good camping spot, followed by another campsite five minutes away, just over a small bridge, at a place called Dambu. The small lhakhang (altar) of Tarpaling is across the Kharta Tsangpo, and lower along the ridge the ruins of Ganden Chopel Gompa are visible. (B, L, D)
Distance: 9.62km

TREK NOTE | As this day of the trek is mostly on jeep tracks, our route or campsite might be slightly different.

Day 12 – Trek Sha-U Tsho (Lake) 4650m
We have only a few hours of trekking today to put us in a good position for crossing the Sha-u La tomorrow, and to help with our acclimatization. From Damphu, we trek about for a short while on a small trail to reach a cairn covered with kata scarves, and continue to ascend gradually following the sparkling stream up on a mostly rocky trail. As the stream widens, we enjoy a world of budding spring flowers and colorful lichen. Cresting several ridges and crossing the stream on stone steps, the trail becomes rockier and more glacial, and the landscape becomes boggy, seeming to fall off the edge of the plateau. We might see Ruddy Shelducks along the widening stream, as we climb along a boulder field towards the beautiful Sha-U Tsho lake, where the staff have set up our campsite amongst the shrubs on the side of the lake. Some of the flowers we see on the Kharta trek are dwarf rhododendron (white papery flowers), a variety of larger rhododendron, purple azaleas, lavender primrose, wild strawberry, yellow butter cups, ‘glacier flowers’ and the very rare, blue poppies!

From camp nearby at the lake, we will be treated to mind-boggling views of Makalu to the south and sister peak Chomo Lonzo (7804m), the north peak of Makalu, to the west. Chomo Lonzo translates as ‘bird goddess’ because of her three peaks. The main southern peak (7804m) is joined via a saddle to the central peak (7565m), which is joined via another saddle to the 7200m northwest peak, all spread out like a birds’ wings. Exploring around the campsite, there is a second large lake and several more smaller lakes nearby. Sunsets and sunrises with the reflections of these majestic peaks in the lakes is sublime!  (B, L, D)
Distance: 5.7km

Chomo Lonzo Climbing History
“On October 30, 1954 the French climbers Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray made the first ascent of the main summit via the gently sloping SW ridge from the 7200m Sakietang La that separates Chomo Lonzo from Makalu. They did this as an afterthought during a reconnaissance expedition to the Makalu, which they first-ascended the next year. The second ascent was on October 24, 1993 by a Japanese expedition which found a route through the NW face that joined the SW ridge half-way. A third and currently last ascent of the main peak in 1994 followed the original SW ridge route. The Central and North peaks remained unclimbed until 2005.

In April 2005, a French expedition first explored the NE face but, finding it too challenging, approached the mountain from the West and Northwest instead. One team (Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff and Patrick Wagnon) climbed the North summit over the NW ridge on May 7, while another (Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz) reached it over the West face on May 16. The first team reascended the North peak and continued to reach the central peak on May 21. The initial plan to traverse all three peaks and descend via the Sakietang La proved impossible.” – Wikipedia

Makalu Climbing History
“Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II (7678m), lies about 3 km north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about 5 km north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo.

The first climb on Makalu was made by an American team led by Riley Keegan in the spring of 1954. The expedition was composed of Sierra Club members including Bill Long and Allen Steck, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. They attempted the southeast ridge but were forced to turn back at 7100m by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team including Sir Edmund Hillary was also active in the spring, but did not get very high due to injury and illness.

1955 French Makalu Expedition: Makalu was first summited on May 15, 1955, by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, Guido Magnone and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa summitted the next day, followed by Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.” – Wikipedia

Day 13 – Trek Joksham 4035m | Cross Sha-U La 4970m 
We’ll start early this morning as we have a fairly challenging day of Tibetan trekking ahead of us. At the end of the lake we begin ascending towards the pass, looking back to the beautiful turquoise lakes. We continue to ascend until we reach the the top of the Sha-U La pass, marked with five-colored lung-ta (prayer flags) and boasting an inspiring view, including Everest (8848m), Makalu (8475m, #5) and Lhotse (8501m, #4). There are also one-meter thick fortification walls at the pass, guarding against Gurkha invasions in the 18th century, and the pass is currently used by local Tibetans to transport timber.

Soon after beginning our descent, the trail forks, and we take the right fork on a rough, rocky trail passing a large pond and marshy area. Soon afterwards the trail becomes slightly bigger, dropping into lush pastures, high alpine meadows and tundra, all the while treated to views of spectacular Himalayan peaks. Descending further, we swing around towards the right to enter a sheer-sided valley, the terrain changing and bounder erratics dumped by glacial retreats peppering the landscape. Passing through rhododendron and birch forests at the base of the valley, we reach another rocky stream surrounded by lovely, green meadows and an open juniper forest. Crossing on a small wooden bridge, we reach our idyllic camp, Jokshim or Joksham, just above the Kaamo Tsangpo valley, next to the stream and at the base of tomorrow’s ascent. (B, L, D)
Distance: 9.03km Elevation Gain: 262m Elevation Loss: 914 m

Day 14 – Trek Thangsum 4365m
Trekking for about 15 minutes to a lower camp, we begin to climb steeply out of Joksham, hiking west through forests of juniper, birch and rhododendron, with usnea lichen hanging low from the trees, typical of Nepali moist cloud forests; some of the most interesting scenery in the Tibet Himalaya. Climbing higher to reach alpine tundra, we enjoy views down to the Karma Tsangpo and the Arun River into Nepal, and not far upstream we spot a glacier originating from Makalu’s snow peak. Look to the right for views of Everest and Lhotse!

Traversing and climbing further we reach a doksa, or seasonal herding settlement, from where we connect with a trail ascending to more doksas and to either Tso Nak, the black lake (4320m) and then to a small pass at 4425m, with views of Lhotse Shar (east) and awesome rock faces on the opposite side of the valley. The rubble in the main valley is the Kangshung Glacier, and the Kangdoshung Glacier spills out from the bottom end. From the north, coming from the Karma Gangri peak, is the massive, glaciated tributary valley of the Rabka Chu. The junction of these valleys form the Karma Tsangpo (river). We descend from another small pass to the third local doksa called Thangsum. As we’ve had a relatively short day, do get out and explore in the afternoon, perhaps having some salt-butter tea or sample local dri (female yak) butter with local herders in their yak hair tent, with whom we share this lovely herding settlement. (B, L, D)
Distance: 4.48km

Day 15 – Trek Rapka 4265m
Leaving Thangsum, we hike through magical green meadows and pass the herding settlement of Chahataphu, where the trail to the Langma La branches off. The Himalayan panoramas are truly awe-inspiring, so take the time to appreciate this sublime setting. Trekking along high, flowering meadows, we have a small climb and descent to the Shalung Tso trail, and eventually reach another small, green doksa from where we briefly climb again to a ridge line cairn, descending steeply to Rapka, a damp, green campsite next to a sparkling spring. To reach our campsite, we drop steeply to the riverbed on a rocky trail, hiking through dwarf rhododendron and scrub juniper, and then gently ascend again. The main valley ahead is the Kangshung Valley glacier valley, which we follow for the next few days. (B, L, D)
Distance: 3.8km

Day 16 – Rapka | Day Hike Sacred Tsechu Tsho (Lake)
A free day at our Rapka campsite to acclimatize and embark on a day hike to Tsechu Tsho, a sacred pilgrimage lake and beyul, or hidden sanctuary. Climbing gently out of Rapka, we cross two small streams and hike through flower-filled meadows, alive with white butterflies, to reach the small trail junction. An obvious trail heads north (right) to the Tsechu Tsho, a holy lake with a Guru Rimpoche cave temple at the back. The views are worth the short 1½ climb to the lake, and the energetic can circumambulate the lake (clockwise), which takes around 2 hours, or an hour to the other side of the lake. Be warned the first section of the kora has no real trail. We’ll return to camp the same way we came, back in time for afternoon chai in the dining tent. (B, L, D)
Distance: 4.7km

Day 17 – Trek Opka 4680m or Pethang Ringmo 4885m
Leaving Rakpa, our small trail soon begins to climb steeply along the Kangshung Valley glacier rim, seemingly never ending as it avoids the glacier below. We trek 45 minutes to Batang (which translates as Land of Juniper), often hiking through dense juniper, dwarf rhododendron shrub, and azaleas. 

The trail eventually flattens, and Himalayan vistas open up spectacularly over the green valley, with the massive Lhotse, Lhotse Shar (east) and the Chomolungma wall dominating the head of the valley. The faces of Chomo Lonzo (7790m) are just as awesome, much closer, and we also see Peak 38 (in Nepal). Although the steepest section is over, we have a few traverses on a high, undulating trail to come. We cross a small stream, turn the corner and descend again to Opka (pronounced more like Wopka), a small stone doksa next to a stream and a lovely green campsite where we’ve had spectacular views of Everest and the surrounding peaks. If we stay at Opka, we have the opportunity to climb Opka Ri tomorrow for more mind-boggling Himalayan panoramas …

The trail continues up the ablation valley for 2½ km, soon reaching the nomad tents on the large meadows of lush grass at Pethang Ringmo. What a panorama, accentuated by white ice floes fall from the peaks into the Kangshung Valley Glacier. Pethang Ringmo was the Base Camp for George Mallory and the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance Team. Although the setting is sublime, we’ve had water issues here previously so have heeded the advice of the yak herders and stayed at Opka, equally beautiful and a bit more sheltered. (B, L, D)
Distance: 5.6km (Opka) + 2.5km (Pethang Ringmo)

Day 18 – Trek Pethang Ringmo | or Climb Opka Ri 5365m
A rest and acclimatization day, with plenty of day trips possible above the campsite besides the climb of Wapka Ri. The beautiful meadows of Wapka and Pethang Ringmo, and the spectacular Himalayan panoramas, are perfect for a relaxing day at camp! Or we might opt to trek up to Pethang Ringmo, 200 meters higher than Opka. (B, L, D)

Day 19 – Day Hike Karbus (Everest Kangshung Face Base Camp) 5290m
We’ll either be be camped at Pethang Ringmo or hike the short-ish distance from Opka this morning, and generally the yaks and yak herders are not able to (or won’t) take the yaks along the sketchy trail to reach Karbus, so we’ve previously only been able to stay at Opka or Petang Ringmo, and have done day hikes up towards Karbus along the glacial moraine …

Continuing north, we’ll trek up the valley to the higher Base Camp, about three hours from Petang Ringmo (5290m). The trail is rough, steep switchbacks through an endless mountainside of scree, with many landslips (and landslides), so we’ll trek carefully, watch for falling rocks, and hope the yaks are able to navigate the trail. Karbus is a stunning location, ringed by mountains and with an awesome view of the Kangshung Face of Everest and Lhotse. Exploring a little further, we’ll spot the steep amphitheater falling from Lhotse. North of camp, on a ridge overlooking the Khangshung Valley, are two greeny-gray lakes, and in between a spur that rises to at least 5800m, probably higher, just a walk up. We might be able to hike north past Base Camp for about 45 minutes, following the crest of the long moraine, for great Himalayan views as well as the glacial lake below. (B, L, D)

Day 20 – Trek Pathang Meadows 4330m or Rapka
Time to enjoy our awesome Himalayan views before heading back down to our lovely campsite at Opka and continuing past the herding settlements back to Rapka, or we might camp at the meadows of Pathang (or Pethang). (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.1km

Day 21 – Trek Shungrim Tsho (Lake) (Langma La Base Camp) 4970m
Returning, the views are always surprisingly different. After the scrub we cross the river for the one hour climb back up to the Rabka Chu Meadow Camp where we separate at the intersection of the Sha-U La trail. At Chahataphu, we traverse and climb out of the valley looping around a few small ridges with spectacular views opening up on the opposite side of a glaciated valley. After a couple of hours we head into the main valley that leads to the pass, hiking by the first lake of Tso Melongma, and then camping by the second lake, Shugrim Tso (lake) 20 minutes further on. Looking back are impressive views of many peaks (not that we saw them) and just above us are more lakes. (B, L, D)
Distance: 10.6km

Day 22 – Trek Lundrubling 4390m | Cross Langma La 5390m
The climb to the Langma La takes two hours with further views back of Chomo Lonzo, Lhotse Shar, Lhotse and Everest (from left to right), Makalu (which dwarfs the others) and Chomo Lonzo as well as some beautiful lakes closer in too, as well as the impressive peak above the pass. Pethangtse is the bullet shaped peak to the right, or west. From the pass (5390m) there is a series of steep descents. After passing the guitar-shaped lake of Damnye Tsho (a Tibetan guitar is called a damnye), there is one more descent along a rocky moraine, along some cliff-side trails, to a series of doksas, often filled with sheep and goats. Gary McCue calls this settlement ‘a medieval-looking collection of stone houses and muddy alleyways’. He also mentions that arak (Tibetan whiskey), chang (Tibetan beer) milk, yogurt and vegetables might be available. Look for blue poppies en route. At the end of the valley the terrain changes, the earth suddenly drier as we reach our camp. Apparently it is possible to see the Kangchenjunga massif rearing above the ridges beyond Kharta on the Nepal-Sikkim Border. Hidden but near our camp is the village of Lundrubling, the end of our trekking during this section of our epic Tibet trip. (B, L, D)
Distance: 7.8km

Day 23 – Drive Kharta, Tashidzong, Drive Everest Base Camp 5150m & Dza Rongphu (Rongbuk) Gompa 4995m
Leaving camp via our private jeeps which now reach Lundrubling, we pass a wonderful village scene of billowing barley fields and old houses where the kids often mob us. It’s a quick drive to Kharta (3645m), the main administrative ‘shang’ in the Everest region. We’ll continue to drive to Tashidzong (4165m) where we’ll stop for a break before continuing to Rongbuk. Less than an hour after leaving Tashidzong we re-enter Chomolungma Nature Preserve and drive on a paved road through a rocky, glacial river, gaining altitude steadily as we drive towards Rongbuk Gompa, or Dza Rongphu (Rongbuk) Monastery, where the staff has set up the highest campsite of the trip at just under 5000 meters, with views of the stunning north face of Everest from camp! (Although we’re probably not permitted to camp near Rongbuk in 2024)

Rongbuk Gompa was first ‘discovered’ by the early Everest expeditions and described as a remote monastic hideaway. The monastery is over a hundred years old and founded by a Nyingmapa lama, although it has been an important religious site for over three hundred years.

After lunch at camp (if we haven’t stopped earlier), we’ll drive 3 km to Tibet Everest Base Camp, where we’re treated to even closer views of the spectacular, massive north face of Everest. Along the way, about 1 km past camp, we pass the ruin of a large nunnery where the nuns fled Tibet in 1959, and just before EBC we will visit the older Rongbuk Gompa, where Milarepa (or Guru Rimpoche) meditated in a cave accessed through a drop vault. Changchub Tarling and Rongchung are older than Rongbuk Gompa. Passing through a parking lot and souvenir stand section where the buses stop, we’ll hike another 2 minutes to where there is a new monument and a small collection of Tibetan prayer flags (lung ta) at the ‘new’ Everest Base Camp. After hanging our prayer flags and sending out our prayers into the universe, we’ll enjoy drive or hike back to camp and hopefully incredible sunset colors over the north face of Everest. (B, L, D)
Distance Driving: 126km 

Day 24 – Drive Tingri 4330m & Saga 4600m | Cross Lamma La 5120m
Back in the vehicles for the drive back to the Friendship Highway via the Lamma La, the first 13 km on the same paved road that we drove up. We drive past marmot and pika on the bumpy road, finally reaching the flat-topped Lamma La pass.

The downhill is an epic drive heading down the pass to reach the river below. The road continues to be washboard for several km, but we eventually reach the paved section of road reaching Tingri. From Tingri, we head west through the high plains of Tibet, soft, beautiful and photogenic, heading towards Kailash and Ngari district. Just after arriving in the dusty truck stop of Lhatse, we’ll cross the Brahmaputra River, which originates from Kailash. The new roads are much better than they were, all paved, and our drive to Saga past lovely Tibetan villages where the spring planting will be in full force, is a scenic one. Saga is a somewhat industrial town so we’ll set up camp on the outskirts in a green meadow. (B, L, D)
Distance Driving: 330km

Day 25 – Drive Parayang & Darchen 4655m (Tarboche 4650m) | Cross Laplung La 4565m & Mayum La 5210m
From Saga, we drive another 255 km west, shouting ‘Ki ki so so, Lha gyalo’ (roughly translated ‘May the gods be victorious!’) as we crest the passes marked with prayer flags and cairns; the first pass is the Laplung La, after which we pass through open grasslands of grazing yaks to reach Drongpa Tradung where we’ll probably stop for lunch. At Tradung we’ll have time to visit the old Sakya monastery built by Songsten Gampo up on a small hill, from where we’ll be treated to vast, green vistas across the plateau. The panoramas are some of the most beautiful on our journey, with the high mountains bordering Nepal on our right, and pebbly streams, small lakes, small Tibetan villages and soft hills surrounding us. We traverse this amazing Tibetan landscape, crossing the Soge La, and the landscape gently transforms to a plateau of high, rolling sand dunes. There’s time to climb up to the wind-sculpted ridges and gaze over a bordering lake below a panorama of Himalayan peaks. Soon after the sand dunes, in a marshy region, we may spot the rare, migratory black-necked cranes as they summer in Tibet.

Parayang (4750m), surrounded by sand dunes, is a large village that we traditionally use to to camp in en route to Kailash, a small village of traditional mud-brick houses, small Tibetan tea-houses and several chortens and mani-walls. And lots of dogs! Leaving lovely Parayang, we have an easy drive over the Mayum La and past Gunggyu Tso (lake) where we’ll be likely to spot more Tibetan wildlife.

Over a small cairn-topped pass and we spot sacred Lake Manasarovar, from which the snowy Gurla Mandata (7694m), the highest peak in Western Tibet, rises to the south (see description after Saga Dawa). We are headed for Darchen, the dusty village near Tarboche and the first stop before our ‘kora’ or circumambulation of Kailash. Gary McCue aptly describes it in the second addition of his ‘Trekking in Tibet’: ‘Darchen has been … transformed into a pit of garage and broken glass, barking dogs, loud Chinese disco music and revving truck engines’. Still, as a pilgrimage destination there’s plenty of people watching, and these days quite a bit of shopping as well …

North of Darchen a paved, jeep road leads to Gyangdrag Gompa and afterwards to Selung (Serlung) Gompa, Kailash’s first monastery. In 2024 we are not allowed to camp at Tarboche, so have booked rooms in Darchen. (B, L, D)
Distance Driving: 485km

Day 26 – Trek Dira Puk 5160m
We meet our team of yaks and the local ‘drokpa’ yak drivers who will escort us around the kora, yak bells ringing. From Tarboche and Chuku Gompa, we follow the Lha Chu river through a serene, meadow-lined valley, hopping over small streams, the west face of Mount Kailash towering above us. The river enters a narrow canyon with high, steep cliffs and spectacular waterfalls. Chuku Gompa is perched above the valley at 4780m. Pilgrims will be doing koras and rubbing parts of their body against worn areas of rock, shiny with butter, to start the kora off in an auspicious manner. Inside is a revered marble statue called Chuku Opame and a silver-inlaid conch shell with silver wings which was said to have flown here from afar, and a ‘trulku’, or reincarnated lama, resides in a cozy (but dung-smoke filled) room in the gompa. A blessing by the local lama is an extremely good start for the kora.

To the west of the Tarboche is the Chorten Kangnyi, and auspicious archway previously decorated with yak and sheep heads. Perched above Tarboche is the Sky Burial Site of 84 Mahasiddhas, a spot revered for once having been the burial site for lamas, and containing numerous sacred springs, cairns, and power places. Pilgrims lie down on a flat rock strewn with old clothes, bones, tsampa bowls and personal belongings and visualize their death.

Midway along the trek at the second prostration point the secret entranceway to the Inner Kora is visible to the right. One must complete 13 koras to enter inside. Continuing up the valley, the north face of Kailash comes into view just as we reach the 13th century monastery at Dira Puk. There are two routes to the camp from the convergence of the valleys, and we have the choice of crossing a small moss bridge and following a small path to the gompa, which has awesome views of the north face of Kailash, or continuing on along the main trail. We camp opposite the river from the gompa, immediately below the massive north face of Kailash. Sunset on the north face of Kailash is magnificent …
Distance: 11.7km

Day 27 – Trek Zutuk Puk Camp | Cross Dolma La 5630m
We leave the Lha Chu Valley just as the sunrise turns the snow peaks gold and pink, and enter the Dolma Chu Valley, heading up towards the Dolma La. Although the altitude makes the trekking difficult, the masses of pilgrims performing their acts of devotion along the way are continuously intriguing. Those extremely devout pilgrims prostrate themselves the entire way around Kailash, kneeling down and extending their bodies and hands in front of them in prayer (and marking the beginning of the next prostration). The trail is lined with sacred sites: butter, coin and flag-covered rocks, rocks with footprints of saints, rocks to climb over, under or through, hillsides of discarded clothes as offerings and other significant sites. It’s a tough climb to the prayer-flag festooned summit of the Dolma La, but it’s all worth if from the pass as juniper incense burns and thousands of colorful prayer flags send prayers out into the surrounding valleys. We’ll do the same, hanging our Tibetan prayer flags and perhaps tossing some colored prayer flag papers up into the wind. Dolma is the Tibetan name of the Goddess Parvati, the wife of Lord Shiva  who reside at the sacred Mount Kailash. Below us lies the Lake of Compassion, Thukpe Dzingbu, one of the highest lakes in the world.

After savoring our time on the top of the Dolma La, we descend steeply, sometimes over snow but mostly on switchbacking trails, eventually reaching a group of teahouses on the Lham Chu (river) where we will stop for lunch on the grassy river banks. We have another three hours of trekking along the grassy riverside with the Tibetan pilgrims, some prostrating, to reach our green campsite right on the river, a lovely spot. Have a wash in the icy stream and enjoy the afternoon!
Distance: 16km

Day 28 – Trek Darchen 4655m (Tarboche 4670m)
An hour of bright early morning trekking along a boulder-filled river brings us to Zutul-puk Gompa (4790m), with Milarepa’s meditation cave and imprints of his hand, food and head prints. A monk with a Polaroid sometimes takes photos of the Tibetan pilgrims in all their finery for 5 RMB. Afterwards, it’s an easy walk along some impressive gorges and around many mani stones and mani walls back to the Barka plains and dusty Darchen where our jeeps await us. The kora is finished – we’ve erased our sins, endured extremely cold nights and mornings, crossed one of the highest passes in the world, met countless fellow pilgrims, sent prayers of peace out to the world. Congratulations!

We’re arriving back in Darchen the day before the main day of the Saga Dawa festival to make sure we have optimal time to absorb the festival tomorrow. We might be able to take the jeeps to Tarboche this afternoon for a look around; it’s an incredibly spiritual place, with lots happening during the Saga Dawa time. We’ll return to our hotel in Darchen, orders of the Chinese, but we’ll also try to have our guide scout out a campsite somewhere near Tarboche, although it’s now allowed. (B, L, D)
Distance: 13km

Day 29 – Drive Tarboche. Saga Dawa Festival! | Drive Lake Manasarovar & Plateau Campsite
2024: Year of the Wood Dragon
We’ll drive from Darchen to Tarboche by the prayer flags for the Saga Dawa festivities, this year’s festival falling during the year of the wood dragon!

Saga Dawa Düchen
Saga Dawa is the holiest festival of the year for Tibetan Buddhists, a month-long festival honoring the Buddha Shakyamuni whose birth, enlightenment and nirvana all took place during the same month! Saga Dawa falls on the 15th day of the 4th lunar month of the year according to the Tibetan calendar. The full moon day is called Saga Dawa Düchen (Düchen translates as ‘great occasion’). Saga Dawa is a festival of Buddhist monks and Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims chanting mantras as they count their well-worn prayer beads, lively, traditional Tibetan music, 5-colored lung-ta (prayer flags) and the inevitable markets. Tibetans from all over the country journey to sacred Mount Kailash for the ritual raising of the prayer-flag pole, which foretells the yearly fortunes of Tibet. We’ll gather with the thousands of Tibetan pilgrims from the far reaches of Tibet, all having endured the long journey to Kailash by over-loaded truck, some by yak caravan, and the extremely devout few by full-body prostrations across the continent, some from as far away as Kham or Amdo. It is said to be a two year round trip by prostration from the eastern parts of Tibet to Kailash and back. 

The sacred prayer-pole will be ritually raised, and the direction the pole tilts (if it tilts at all) will foretell the future of Tibet for the coming year. It is a very significant ceremony, and monks, lamas and Rimpoches will preside over the rituals. Tibetan Buddhists consider that the good deeds, karma and prayers are multiplied 1000 times during the month of Saga Dawa, and in general Tibetans will tend to be more compassionate, generous and will refrain from killing, capturing or eating animals and fish, thus gaining merit for the rest of their lives. The kora around Mt Kailash is by far the most auspicious activity for Tibetan Buddhists around the planet.

During the festival, there is plenty of shopping as a good Tibetan never misses an opportunity to make a sale, and products from all over Tibet are available. And after the ceremony, devout Tibetans will gather for a piece of wooden prayer-pole, a ‘sacred relic’. This is a day for photos, so make sure you have plenty of memory cards and your battery fully charged. Bring small change for ‘festival street-food’ and prayer flags as well!

Lake Manasarovar, Chiu Gompa & Gurla Mandata
After the festivities, we’ll drive to sacred Lake Manasarovar to have a dip or collect some water from the lake. The snowy Gurla Mandata (7694m), the highest peak in Western Tibet, rises to the south. Tibetans call this lake Mapham Yumtsho, ‘the unconquerable turquoise lake’. It is the source (nearly) of four of South Asia’s greatest rivers which flow in four directions towards the sea. These are: the Senge Khabab (‘river from the lion’s mouth’) to the north, the Tamchok Khabab (‘river from the horse’s mouth’) to the east, the Mapcha Khabab (‘the river from the peacock’s mouth’) to the south and the Langchen Khabab (‘the river from the elephant’s mouth) to the west. Translated into western names, it’s the Indus, the Tsangpo (Brahmaputra), the Karnali and the Sutlej respectively. Just to the west is and it’s nemesis, Raksas Tal, the ‘Demon Lake’. Lake Manasarovar is the second most sacred pilgrimage spot for Hindus, and those on pilgrimage will submerge themselves in this sacred lake and bring some in a plastic bottle back home with them. The clear lake is full of migratory birds, although quite swampy near the fly-infested shores. But sublime all the less! There is a sacred ‘kora’ around the lake, which takes Westerners about six days, Tibetans more like three. There are several gompas en route, including Chiu (Little Bird) Gompa which we can visit if we have the time. 

Finally, we’ll get back into our jeeps for a late afternoon drive towards our ‘Plateau Camp’, somewhere in the direction of Kyirong, our last campsite of the journey … (B, L, D)
Distance Driving: 61.4km + Plateau Camp

Day 30 – Drive Dzongka & Kyirong 2810m | Cross Tsalung La 5280m
Ascending from Pelku Tso to a small hill, we’ll have spectacular views down to the lake, and drive through a narrow canyon for several kilometers, passing over a ridge marked with prayer flags at about 4900 meters, and then descending and ascending to the Tsalung La (5280m); we’ll enjoy the long descent of over 1000 meters! We have a stunningly beautul drive through southern Tibet to the Langtang (Rasuwa) region of Nepal, following the Kyirong Chu river, which becomes the Trishuli River in Nepal, passing through canyons and ending up in green, forested countryside. Continuing to descent, the landscape changes dramatically, the clouds increase and the scenery is more and more like Nepal, and less like the high plateaus of Tibet.

We’re not allowed to camp anywhere past the Tsalung La pass unfortunately, so we drive through Dzongka (4130m), the capital of Kyirong County, and continue on past chortens and more villages with planted fields to Kyirong, once a major trading post in Tibet, where we stay in a hotel for the night. The one saving grace of this now completely Chinese town is the Kyirong Monastery just near the hotel. (B, L, D) (Hotel TBA)
Distance: 152km – Plateau Camp

Day 31 – Drive Nepal Border (Rasuwa Ghadi) 1814m | Drive Ramche Bazaar (Langtang) & Kathmandu
Our last few kilometers in Tibet (approximately 10 km depending on our campsite), we drive to the border of Nepal at Rasuwa Ghadi to meet our new trucks to take our gear back to Kathmandu. Rasuwa Ghadi is a newly opened border for foreigners, previously used for trade between Nepal and Tibet during the earthquake, and otherwise by Everest expeditions, and local Nepalis and Tibetans. We’ll continue to drive south on the new Pasang Lhamo Highway, past Timure and Syabru Besi, to Dhunche and Ramche Bazaar.

Driving downhill on a circuitous road, we soon reach much warmer climates in the Nuwakot district of Nepal, continuing south until we meet the Trisuli River at Betrawoti Bazaar, about 20 km. We’ll continue on to Kathmandu the same day, a long drive but worth it to get back to our beautiful rooms at The Kathmandu Guest House. From the Trisulu or slightly further north from our campsite, we drive along the winding, hilly Trisuli Highway to the Kakani intersection from where we continue on the long downhill back to the Kathmandu Guest House. (B, L)
Distance Driving: 113km + 47 km = 150km

Day 32 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
Transfer to TIA International Airport for your flight home. We hope you had an incredible trip into the heart of Tibet, the roof of the world, the journey of a lifetime! (B)

Tashi Delek!

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

Kharta Valley & Everest Kangshung Face Camping Trek & Sacred Kailash Kora Trek (Add-On 2024) – Tibet Himalaya Trekking
Day 1 – Early Arrival Kathmandu | Passports for Chinese Visas | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! Plan to arrive on 21 April in Kathmandu as we need your passports for Chinese visas 5 full days before the trip starts with our drive to Nuwakot on the afternoon of Friday, 26 April. You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it. Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks …

Morning Meeting @9 AM Kathmandu Guest House (Chinese Visas)
Morning meeting at 9 AM in the back garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to collect insurance information and go over some of our trip details and logistics OR you can submit these to us earlier. 

The next 4 days are free to explore Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley, shop, wander Thamel’s interesting streets, visit the spa, have a massage, or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. (B)

Extra Days (Acclimatization, Sightseeing & Travel Options)
We are happy to help arrange trips (day or multi-day trips) for you! Visit Bhaktapur, Bandipur, Nagarkhot, Nuwakot, Pokhara, Chitwan or Bardia National Park, Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort & Spa and Shivapuri Heights. There are many options for cycling, hiking, white water rafting or touring in the Kathmandu Valley; we can point you towards craft, foodie or cultural back-street tours, or can arrange for a Nepali cycling guide show you Kathmandu Valley’s best mountain biking. Spend a night at a Boudhanath hotel and enjoy the atmospheric evening pilgrimage koras, or at a boutique heritage hotel in Patan. We’ll arrange a wonderful morning Everest sightseeing flight, or an epic Everest helicopter tour!

Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing Tours
The day is free to explore Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley, shop, wander Thamel’s interesting streets, visit the spa, have a massage, or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants.

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Day 3 – Fly Lhasa 3655m (Gonggar Airport) | Barkhor Koras Evening Walk!
We’ll leave the hotel mid-morning for our spectacular hour long China Air flight, which crosses the main Himalayan range, flying over the Himalayan 8000-meter peaks of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kanchenjunga, magnificent Himalayan panoramas! After landing at Gonggar Airport and meeting our Tibetan guide, we drive 45 minutes into Lhasa. We check in to our Tibetan-owned Yak Hotel, situated near the Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Square, where the character of the old city is still quite Tibetan. Welcome to Lhasa, the ‘City of the Gods’ (or ‘Sunlight City’ due to the 3000 hours of sunshine yearly)!

In the evening, have a walk to the Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Kora, do some koras with the Tibetan pilgrims from around Tibet as well as local Lhasa-pa in the intense late afternoon light, endlessly photogenic and always a very powerful experience. Another atmospheric time of day to walk the Barkhor Kora is before breakfast, with the chill still in the air and juniper incense from the burners wafting up into the clear, Tibetan air. There has been a lot of change in ‘old Lhasa’ in the past 20 years, including the removal of the Tibetan vendors that used to line the Barkhor Square Kora, security gates to enter the Jokhang Barkhor region, the installation of ‘modern’ (Chinese) old style street lamps, Chinese shops and pseudo-Tibetan shops run by Chinese, but this part of Lhasa still retains some of its old world, Central Asian charm. Afternoons are free to wander the endlessly fascinating bazaars of old Lhasa, walk koras around the Potala Palace with the myriad Tibetan pilgrims, or sit in front the Jokhang in the intense afternoon light, immersing yourself in the exoticism of Lhasa.

Some of our favorite restaurants and cafes are Dunya (right next door to the hotel), Makye Ame (along the Barkor Kora), Tibetan Family Kitchen (behind Jokhang, in a small alleyway), Old Lap Rang Tibetan Family Restaurant (last quarter of kora, inside), House of Shambala (back streets of Barkor), Ganglamedo (across the street from the hotel) & Western Cafe (just around the corner towards Barkor) although there are many and it’s fun to explore the Tibetan section of Lhasa. Namaste, Tashi 1 + Snowland also get good marks. Great street eats to be found near the mosque on the opposite side of the Jokhang Temple along the Barkor Kora. (B) (Yak Hotel)

ALTITUDE ADVICE | We strongly advise taking 125-250 mg of Diamox before the flight up to Lhasa at 3700 meters. Take either 125 or 250 mg tonight and one tomorrow morning, and then continue for a day or so until we discuss further in Lhasa. (B)

Days 4 & 5 – Lhasa
Lhasa! We have three wonderful days to wander the streets of the Tibetan section of Lhasa, and continue with our exploring of Lhasa and the Lhasa Kyichu Valley’s Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and the iconic Potala Palace, home to the Dalai Lamas.

Over the following three days we visit some of the most important sites in and around Lhasa with our Tibetan guide. Late afternoons will be free for you to discover the endlessly fascinating bazaars, walk koras around the Jokhang with the myriad other pilgrims, or sit in the Barkor square, immersing yourself in the smoky exoticism and history of Lhasa, once a major stop on the ancient Silk Route.

Our sightseeing in Lhasa might be arranged slightly differently, depending on the availability of entrance tickets to the various monasteries and sights. See the Lhasa tab for full information on sightseeing, shopping, koras and eating in Lhasa! (B) (Yak Hotel)

Lhasa Monasteries, Palaces & Sights
Jokhang Temple & Barkhor Square Kora
The holiest gompa (temple) in Tibet, revered by Tibetans of all sects though officially Gelugpa, shelters the sacred Jowo Sakyamuni statue and was recently partially destroyed by a massive fire (2018), though rebuilt. Jokhang’s architectural style is a mixture of Indian vihara, Tibetan and Nepalese design. Shuffle among the pilgrims, butter lamps permeating the air, and find gruesome Gods in hidden annexes. There is always a procession of devout Tibetans through the complex. After walking the holy inner circle, complete a circuit (kora) of the Barkhor, the market surrounding the Jokhang, for good karma. It is the best market to shop for all things Tibetan, and just about anything else you ever wanted.

“The Jokhang was founded during the reign of King Songtsen Gampo. According to tradition, the temple was built for the king’s two brides: Princess Wencheng of the Chinese Tang dynasty and Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal. Both are said to have brought important Buddhist statues and images from China and Nepal to Tibet, which were housed here, as part of their dowries. The oldest part of the temple was built in 652. Over the next 900 years, the temple was enlarged several times with the last renovation done in 1610 by the Fifth Dalai Lama. Following the death of Gampo, the image in Ramcho Lake temple was moved to the Jokhang temple for security reasons. When King Tresang Detsen ruled from 755 to 797, the Buddha image of the Jokhang temple was hidden, as the king’s minister was hostile to the spread of Buddhism in Tibet. During the late ninth and early tenth centuries, the Jokhang and Ramoche temples were said to have been used as stables. In 1049 Atisha, a renowned teacher of Buddhism from Bengal taught in Jokhang.

Around the 14th century, the temple was associated with the Vajrasana in India. In the 18th century the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing dynasty, following the Gorkha-Tibetan war in 1792, did not allow the Nepalese to visit this temple and it became an exclusive place of worship for the Tibetans. During the Chinese development of Lhasa, the Barkhor Square in front of the temple was encroached. During the Cultural Revolution, Red Guards attacked the Jokhang temple in 1966 and for a decade there was no worship. Renovation of the Jokhang took place from 1972 to 1980. In 2000, the Jokhang became a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an extension of the Potala Palace (a World Heritage Site since 1994). Many Nepalese artists have worked on the temple’s design and construction.” – Wikipedia

Drepung, Nechung & Sera Monasteries
Sera is one of the best preserved monasteries in Tibet, renown for its lively debating sessions in the courtyard each afternoon. Within its whitewashed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study. Drepung was founded in the 14th century and was once the largest gompa in the world with a population of around 10,000 monks. These days the figure has been reduced to several hundred, but there is still much of interest to see here, as the structure escaped relatively unscathed during the Cultural Revolution. Just below Drepung is the tantric monastery of Nechung, referred to as ‘ the Demon Fortress of the Oracle King’. This interesting monastery was the seat of the State Oracle until the Dalai Lama fled Tibet in 1959. The oracle became possessed by the protector deity Pehar and acted as a mouthpiece for the deity, often not having knowledge of what he said. The position of oracle came from the older Bon tradition.

Potala Palace
The magnificent white, black, red and gold Potala Palace dominates the skyline of Lhasa. It was the winter quarters of the Dalai Lama, housing jewel-encrusted gold and silver stupas of previous Dalai Lamas, numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.

“The residence of the Dalai Lama until the 14^th Dalai Lama fled to India during the 1959 Tibetan uprising. It is now a museum and World Heritage Site. The palace is named after Mount Potalaka, the mythical abode of the bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. The 5^th Dalai Lama started its construction in 1645 after one of his spiritual advisers, Konchog Chophel, pointed out that the site was ideal as a seat of government, situated as it is between Drepung and Sera monasteries and the old city of Lhasa. It may overlay the remains of an earlier fortress called the White or Red Palace on the site, built by Songtsen Gampo in 637. (The substantial structure has) copper poured into the foundations to help proof it against earthquakes. Thirteen storys of buildings, containing over 1000 rooms, 10,000 shrines and about 200,000 statues, soars 117m on top of Marpo Ri, the “Red Hill …). Tradition has it that the three main hills of Lhasa represent the “Three Protectors of Tibet”. Chokpori, just to the south of the Potala, is the soul-mountain of Vajrapani, Pongwari that of Manjusri, and Marpori, the hill on which the Potala stands, represents Avalokiteśvara.” – Wikipedia

Ramoche Gompa
Just north of the Barkhor, at the end of the road to the right of Dunya Restaurant and the Yak Hotel on the left of the busy shopping road. “Ramoche is considered the sister temple of the Jokhang, completed about the same time. Tradition says that it was built originally to house the much revered Jowo Rinpoche statue, carried to Lhasa via Lhagang in a wooden cart, brought to Tibet when Princess Wencheng came to Lhasa. Unlike the Jokhang, Ramoche was originally built in Chinese style. During Mangsong Mangtsen’s reign (7^th c), because of a threat that the Tang Chinese might invade, Princess Wencheng is said to have had the statue of Jowo Rinpoche hidden in a secret chamber in the Jokhang. Princess Jincheng, sometime after 710, had it placed in the central chapel of the Jokhang. It was replaced at Ramoche by a statue of Jowo Mikyo Dorje, a small bronze statue of the Buddha when he was eight years old, crafted by Vishvakarman, and brought to Lhasa by the Nepalese queen, Bhrikuti. It is said to have been badly damaged by the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution.

The temple was badly damaged during the Mongol invasions and there is no certainty that the statue that remained in 1959 was the original one. The original temple was destroyed by fire, and the present three-storied building was constructed in 1474. Soon after it became the Assembly Hall of the Gyuto Tratsang, or Upper Tantric College of Lhasa and was home to 500 monks. There was a close connection with Yerpa which provided summer quarters for the monks.” – Wikipedia

Norbulingka Summer Palace
Norbulingka is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, set in a quiet and relaxing garden which used to house the Dalai Lama’s pets. One particularly interesting mural inside depicts the history of Tibet and all the Dalai Lamas.

Ani Tsarkhung (Canggu) Nunnery
This lovely nunnery is tucked away between the Muslim Great Mosque and vegetable corner of the old city, on the furthest kora around the the Barkor. The yellow ani gompa, with an open courtyard, houses about 100 nuns. The Ani Tsarkhung Nunnery (tshamkhang means place for spiritual retreat) was built in the 7^th c by Songsten Gampo, who used its meditation chamber, a spot which is now a sacred spot behind the nunnery. Since the 12^th c, the monastery has been used mainly by Buddhist nuns, who support themselves through alms and manufacturing items such as clothing and printed texts. Its main assembly hall contains a beautiful image of Chenrezi, the multi-armed bodhisattva of Compassion.

“As a public nunnery, Canggu Nunnery focuses on passing on and promoting ceremonies and rituals of believing Goddess of Mercy and Buddha Tara. All the nuns are chanting by sutra recitation hall at 8:00 every morning. Then a professional ceremony lasts until about 4 pm … In addition to its unique religious dedication, Canggu Nunnery is popular among local residents also because it manages to raise funds by itself … The nunnery (also) runs a clinic. It employs experienced medical professionals as doctors and some of its nuns who know some medical knowledge as assistants. For years the clinic served the local residents, and because of their kindness, patience and consideration for the people, they are much trusted by the locals. In addition, the nunnery runs a small shop selling petty commodities that are both trustworthy quality and price.

The nunnery also runs a tea house looking on the street, and a small tea garden hiding inside. Everyday, many travelers who come to Barkhor Street to pray, burn joss sticks and stroll around would take a rest under the big umbrellas at the tea house, and have a taste of “Qia A Mao”, a sweet tea made of milk, sugar and black tea, Tibetan noodles or steamed stuffed buns made by the nuns.” – China Highlights

Phabonkha Monastery
About 10 km out of Lhasa, this 1300 year old monastery is one of the Lhasa region’s first buildings, and was founded by Songsten Gampo in the 7^thc.  “Although originally the site of his castle or fort, the Tibetan Annals have revealed that Pabonka was converted into a monastery, possibly under the reign of the second great Buddhist king of Tibet Trisong Detsen. Trisong Detsen, along with Guru Rinpoche and the first seven monks of the new Tibetan Empire, used to meditate at the hermitage and it became one of Tibet’s very earliest Buddhist monasteries, possibly even pre-dating Jokhang. The original nine-storied monastery was partially destroyed by King Langdharma in 841 during his campaign to destroy monastic Buddhism. It was rebuilt in the 11th century as a two-storied structure that housed 200 monks.” – Wikipedia

Muru Sarpa (New) Gompa
This smaller monastery is related to Maru Nyimpa Gompa, and is locate across the street from Gyan Gyen Hotel, with a printing press. There is anothermonastery just past this one called Gyume Gompa

Barkhor Kora Sights
Jampa (Maitreya) Monastery
A small atmospheric gompa in the middle of the Barkhor kora, access from the eastern side of the kora. There is a protector deities shrine where barley beer and chang are offered to the protector deities. Pilgrims circle the large prayer wheel just in front, and you may hear pilgrims chanting inside the prayer wheel room. The gompa is a bright yellow building just in back of the prayer wheel, with Muru Ngingpa Gompa just behind.

Muru Nyingpa (Old) Gompa
Muru Nyingba Gompa was the Lhasa seat of the former State Oracle, who had his main residence at Nechung Monastery. It is said that Emperor Songtsen Gampo built the first building here, and it is where the great Tibetan scholar, Thonmi Sambhota completed his work developing the Tibetan alphabet in the first half of the 7^th c. The present building, first constructed during the reign of King Ralpacan in the 9th century, is built like an Indian vihara around a courtyard, with the lhakang to the north and the monks quarters on the three other sides. The gompa was destroyed during the persecution of Buddhism under Langdarma in the 9^th c, but rebuilt by Atisha (980-1054) and became Gelugpa under the Third Dalai Lama, Sonam Gyatso (1543–1589). It became the Lhasa residence of the Nechung Oracle in the 17^th c, the oracle who was possessed by Pehar in his trances.

Barkhor & Old Lhasa Back Alleys Walk
From the alley just before Gyan Gyen Hotel, take a left towards the Jokhang Temple and pass House of Shambala, a boutique hotel with a great little downstairs bar and a craft shop, on the right. Continue past several shops selling baskets with leather trim, wooden butter containers, Buddhist statues and dyed textiles amongst the other mostly Chinese shops and teashops. If you head to the right, you will eventually reach Makye Ame restaurant on the Barkhor Kora. Take the left alley back out of the kora to reach Dropenling craft shop, and then the Muslim section of the old city, filled with vegetable and food vendors, homemade noodles, meat shops, and the Great Mosque of Tibet. Continue past the mosque, and take the alley to the left to reach the atmospheric Ani Tsarkhung (Canggu) Nunnery and the wonderful Tibetan Village Artisans craft shop.

Re-enter the Barkhor Kora and have a snack and a glass of sweet tea at the Guangming Kamqung Sweet Tea House, up a set of diagonal steps, just before making the last turn back to the Jokhang Temple. Spend the late afternoon watching the Tibetan pilgrims doing their devotional prostrations in front of Tibet’s most sacred temple.

Heading away from the Jokhang Temple, head back into the bustle of Tibetan pilgrims, pass the shops selling Buddhist goods, and visit the inner Jampa and Muru Temples, inside the kora just past the front of the Jokhang. As you leave the Barkhor kora heading back to the hotel, pass through the large covered market (meats, butter, vegetables and local goods), and continues past a street with several shops selling horse gear, including a Tibetan man with real antique tackle, blankets and woven bags.

Old Town Lhasa | Tibetan & Muslim Quarters
The small alleys in the old Tibetan Quarter of Lhasa are endlessly fascinating, with an incredible variety of delicious street food near the mosque, small gompas tucked away inside the alleyways yersa gumbu on sale in many shops, fruit and vegetable markets, local shops, some boutique hotels and local handicraft shops and great photography opportunities! Don’t miss having a bowl of laphing, the spicy bean noodles with soy sauce and green onions. Delicious!

Lhasa Pilgrim Koras
Barkhor Kora
A cultural as well as religious kora around the Jokhang Temple, busy with Tibetan pilgrims with mani wheels and prayer beads at all times of the day. The Barkhor Kora is especially atmospheric during the misty mornings with incense burning in the massive incense burners, and in the evenings as the sun sets. You’ll walk with prostrating Tibetan pilgrims, collecting small donations from other Tibetans, and should stop into Meru Nyingpa Gompa at the center of the circuit. Plenty of shopping, cafes and restaurants around this fascinating kora, and Tibetans are generally dressed in their traditional chubas, striped aprons, adorned with turquoise, coral, amber, dzi beads and wearing their men’s and women’s Stetson hats. Endlessly photogenic. (20 min)

Potala Kora
This longer pilgrim’s kora does a look of the Potala palace, and was once, like the Barkhor Kora, lined with vendors selling handicrafts, snacks and other goods. The kora is busiest in the mornings, when you’ll often see Tibetans doing their dance exercises to music! The kora is filled with the same Tibetan pilgrims and Lhasa-pa in their traditional clothes and jewelry, and passes under the small lake at the north of the Potala. (45 min)

Lingkhor Kora
The longest of the pilgrim’s koras follows a route through Lhasa, starting from Jiangsu Lu and heading to Chagpo Ri (the Iron Mountain) and the Potala Palace. Again best in the mornings with the Tibetan pilgrims, to really experience the kora’s atmosphere. (2 ½ hrs)

Day 6 – Lhasa | Day Trip Ganden Monastery 4265m
We’ll set off early for a scenic 36-kilometer drive to the Gelugpa Ganden Monastery, on of the ‘three great’ Gelugpa monasteries in Tibet. Ganden is situated atop Wangbur Mountain in Tagtse County. Its full name is Ganden (meaning joyful, the Tibetan name for Tusita, the heaven where the bodhisattva Maitreya is said to reside) and Namgyal Ling (victorious temple). On the way back from Ganden we might have time to visit Dragyelpa Cave.

Ganden was founded by Je Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelugpa tradition, in 1409. It’s history is interesting so I will quote from Wikipedia: ‘The Ganden Tripa or ‘throne-holder of Ganden’ is the head of the Gelukpa school. Tsongkhapa’s preserved body was entombed there in a silver and gold encrusted tomb by his disciples in 1419. Being the farthest from Lhasa of the three university monasteries, Ganden traditionally had a smaller population with some 6,000 monks in the early 20th century (although Waddell reports an estimate of about 3,300 in the 1890s and there were, apparently only 2,000 in 1959. At this time there are about 170 monks.

Ganden Monastery consisted of two principal original colleges, Jangtse and Shartse, meaning North Peak and East Peak respectively. The three main sights in the Ganden Monastery are the Serdung, which contains the tomb of Tsongkhapa, the Tsokchen Assembly Hall and the Ngam Cho Khang the chapel where Tsongkhapa traditionally taught. The monastery houses artifacts which belonged to Tsongkhapa. It contained more than two dozen major chapels with large Buddha statues. The largest chapel was capable of seating 3,500 monks. Tenzin Gyatso, the present Dalai Lama (born 1935), took his final degree examination in Ganden in 1958 and he claims to feel a particularly close connection with Tsongkhapa.

Ganden was completely destroyed during the rebellion of 1959. In 1966 it was severely shelled by Red Guard artillery and monks then had to dismantle the remains. Most of Tsongkhapa’s mummified body was burned but his skull and some ashes were saved from the fire by Bomi Rinpoche, the monk who had been forced to carry the body to the fire. Re-building has been continuing since the 1980s and the “red-painted lhakang in the centre is the reconstruction of Ganden’s sanctum sanctorum containing Tsongkapa’s reliquary chorten called the Tongwa Donden, ‘Meaningful to Behold.’ – Wikipedia

The kora of Ganden, around the small Wangbur Mountain, takes about 45 minutes and is a great way to come into contact with Tibetan pilgrims, attired in their pilgrimage best. You might be lucky to witness a sky burial on a nearby hillside, a tradition rarely found anymore in Tibet; be respectful and keep a distance if you are fortunate enough to chance upon a sky burial. (B) (Yak Hotel)

Day 7 – Drive Shalu Gompa 3890m & Shigatse 3850m | Visit Tashi Lhunpo Monastery & Shigatse Fort
Leaving Lhasa, we have a beautiful drive through green countryside, following the Nyang Chu past barley fields, grazing goats and small villages surrounded by snow peaks heading to Shigatse!

After about 70 km we turn left on a lovely, small road for 3 km to visit Shalu Gompa. Shalu was founded in 1040, the first of Tibet’s monasteries to be built by a noble family, and packs more culture and atmosphere than most of Tibet’s more visited monasteries. The monastery, of the Sakya tradition, was renown for its incredible murals, and was a center of scholarly learning. Returning back to the road, we soon reach the city limits of Shigatse, previously known as Samdruptse, where we will check into Manasoravar Hotel.

Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet and is home to perhaps the best preserved and most controversial monastery in Tibet, Tashi Lhunpo Gompa. This Gelugpa monastery, administered by the Panchen Lama, the second most important lama in Tibet, is one of the largest functioning monasteries in Tibet, and there is much to explore within its surrounding walls. We will take a few hours for a visit to Tashi Lhunpo, perhaps doing a kora and look over to the massive Shigatse Fort. After visiting Tashi Lhunpo, we’ll have dinner at a nearby restaurant owned by the same people that own our hotel.

‘In the 19th century, the ‘Tashi’ or Panchen Lama had temporal power over Tashi Lhunpo Monastery and three small districts, though not over the town of Shigatse itself, which was administered by two Dzongpön (prefects) appointed from Lhasa. Before military conflict between the PRC’s People’s Liberation Army and the Central Tibetan Administration, the Tibetan territory was divided into 53 prefecture districts called Dzongs. There were two Dzongpöns for every Dzong—a lama (Tse-dung) and a layman. They were entrusted with both civil and military powers and are equal in all respects, though subordinate to the generals and the Chinese Amban in military matters. However, there were only one or two Ambans representing the Chinese emperor residing in Lhasa, directing a little garrison, and their power installed since 1728, progressively declined to end-up as observer at the eve of their expulsion in 1912 by the 13th Dalai Lama. In 1952, shortly after the PRC sent forces to the region, Shigatse had a population of perhaps 12,000 people, making it the second largest city in Tibet.’ – Wikipedia. (B, L) (Manasarovar Hotel)
Distance Driving: 93m

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Original Route

Drive Tingri 4330m & Peiko Tso (Lake) | Cross Lamma La 5120m (Drive Saga)
Back in the vehicles for the drive back to the Friendship Highway via the Lamma La (5120m), the first 13 km on the same paved road that we drove up. We drive past marmot and pika on the bumpy road, finally reaching the flat Lamma La.

The downhill is an epic and beautiful but bumpy drive heading down the pass to reach the river below. The road continues to be washboard for several km, but we eventually reach the paved section of road reaching Tingri. Once back on the main highway, we head south away from Tingri. Old Tingri, once called Ganggar, was once an atmospheric village which includes about 100 mud-brick houses crowded together below the hillside, very old Tibet in style, and worth a walk around for a glimpse of Tibetan village life. There are some real Tibetan characters roaming the streets doing business; or perhaps passing us on the street in their horse-carts or prayer-flag festooned tractors. The wild west of central Tibet! There is an impressive viewpoint at the remains of an old garrison called Ganggar Ri with views of Everest, Cho Oyu and the Nangpa La route to the Khumbu region of Nepal.

We drive to Tsamda, on the snaking river with old-style chortens and flocks of sheep. Turning right and heading west across the Tibetan plateau before reaching the Lalung La (which leads to Kodari, Nepal), we’re treated to great views of Everest and Cho Oyu, passing the ruins of several large forts, which guarded the trade route to Nepal and were destroyed in 18th-century wars. We drive west towards Pelku Tso (Peiku Tso on many maps) lake, driving past the southern turnoff to Shishapangma Base Camp. We drive past several traditional Tibetan villages, with kiang (wild ass) and blue sheep often roaming the nearby plateau. It’s a great drive along this massive plateau, the colors of the hillsides varying shades of mossy green with white snow peaks above, and we descend towards the lake, all the time with incredible views of Shishapangma (8013m), the world’s 14th highest peak, directly to the south (left). 

We camp either at the lake or just over the hill below the Tsalung La. (B, L, D)
Distance: 174km

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Old Route | Zhangmu Kodari Border
Day 24 – Drive to Zhangmu 2250m
Our last day of driving in Tibet, we spend all of the day on a good road driving through stunning Tibetan landscapes with Himalayan vistas throughout the drive. After breakfast we head back west – probably the same way we came – and soon we’re back on the Friendship Highway heading south towards the border of Nepal, driving on a good road through a wide, green valley. We reach (old) Tingri after 1-1 1/2 hours and will stop and hike up to an impressive viewpoint at the remains of an old garrison called Ganggar Ri with views of Everest, Cho Oyu and the Nangpa La route to the Khumbu region of Nepal.

Just past Tingri we pass the ruins of several large fortresses which guarded the trade route to Nepal and were destroyed in 18th century wars, and more ruins of monasteries and deserted villages. Further along the road to Shishapangma north base camp and to Kailash is sign-posted, and above are inspiring views along that road that passes Peiko Tso.

The first pass we crest is the Lalung La, 5124m and after a short scenic drop between we reach the Tong La 5200m (although often called other names). Here we stop to admire a Himalayan panorama that includes Shishapangma and Khambachen on the west (right) and a hard to recognize Gauri Shankar (Chomo Tseringma for Tibetans and Sherpas). We are standing on the geographic divide, although the main Himalayan mountain divide is further south.

The descent to Nyalam at 3650 meters takes a couple of hours, with Zangmu, at 2250 meters, another 1 1/2 hours further south. Along the way we’ll pass both newly built and old white-washed Tibetan villages, and sometimes herders herding their flocks of sheep and goats or their yaks. This is one of the most impressive gorge roads in the world, a winding road through a green rainforest with waterfalls streaming over the road at points. It’s a relief to reach the winding streets of Zangmu, a typical border town but perched precariously on a steep hill, making the most of its meager land allotment. We will stay at Zhangmu at the Zhangmu Hotel, the best in town …

Day 25 – Cross Nepal Border. Drive The Last Resort
From Zhangmu, it’s a short drive to the Friendship Bridge which spans the Bhote Kosi River and marks the Chinese – Nepalese border. We say goodbye to our Tibetan guide and driver and walk to Nepalese Immigration Control in Kodari where we will be met by our Nepalese staff and driven to the Last Resort, just half an hour south.

The Last Resort is a wonderful place to spend a night after the rigors of Tibet. Let’s see if they can get the sauna started! Beers in the bamboo bar/restaurant afterwards is the perfect way to wind down …

Day 26 – Drive Kathmandu
We’ll have the morning to relax at the Last Resort, enough time for a bungy jump if anyone wants! We continue the drive to Kathmandu which, depending on road and weather conditions, should take about five hours. Back in Kathmandu, we’ll send grungy clothes to the laundry, and then head out to The Roadhouse Cafe for some wood-oven pizza and cold beers!

Day 27 – Trip Ends
Transfer to the airport for your flight home. We hope you had a wonderful trip into the heart of Tibet on the roof of the world, the journey of a lifetime! Tashi Delek!

2024 Dates
21 April – Early Arrival Kathmandu (Chinese Group Visa) 
29 April – Meet in Lhasa, Tibet (Chinese Individual Visa)

26 April – 26 May
32 Days (Meet in Kathmandu, Nepal)
28 Days (Meet in Lhasa, Tibet)

22, 23, 24 & 25 April NOT Included in Trip Price

2024 Trek Price
$7180 (Kailash & Kharta Kangshung Everest Trek)
32 Days 

$6880 (Meet in Lhasa)
28 Days

+ FREE Single Supplement for Tents!
+ Single Supplement Tibet (Meet in Lhasa) – $500
+ Single Supplement Tibet Hotels & The Famous Farm – $750
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House – $100 (2 Nights)
+ Deluxe Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House –$160 (2 Nights)
+ Chinese Visas NOT Included in Cost (We obtain the Chinese Group Visas for those arriving in Kathmandu)
+ Flight Lhasa & Hotel Chengdu NOT Included in Cost (Overland Cost IS Included)
+ Price based on 6+ trekkers

Chinese Group Visa Fees
USA – $210
Canada – $140
Other Countries –$115

Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades 
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

Includes

• Western & Sherpa Guides | Kim & Lhakpa Sherpa
• Tibetan Guide
• Tibet Permit
• Tibet Hotels (Breakfast)
• Kathmandu Guest House (Breakfast)
• Tibet Sightseeing & Entrance Fees
• Private Transport to & from Tibet (2024 Departure)
• Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
• Airport Transfers
• NO Single Supplement on Trek!
• Kamzang Journeys Boutique Trekking
  3-person dome tents (per person), ‘gourmet’ food with seasonal, fresh produce, French-press coffee, chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, library, ‘lounge’ with colorful Indian rugs, camp chairs, blankets, occasional tent music in evenings, oxygen & PAC bag (when needed), full medical kit, horses, yaks or porters, Western, Sherpa & local guides (when needed), our 5-star Kamzang staff + the signature yellow Kamzang dining tent!

Safety & Health Precautions | Included in Trek

• Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
• PAC Bag (Portable Oxygen Chamber)
• Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
• Kayadyn Filtered Drinking Water
• Safe, Sanitary, Delicious + Plentiful Food + Drinks

Excludes

• International Flights To & From Nepal
• Flights Kathmandu – Lhasa (2024 Departure)
• Travel Medical & Travel Insurance (Both Required)
• Nepal or China Visas (We Get Chinese Visas in Kathmandu)
• Helicopter Evacuation
• Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu
• Lunch & Dinner in Tibet (At Hotels)
• Monastery Donations
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol, Sodas & Packaged Drinks
• Laundry
• Tips

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $300 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $350 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew. There are ATMs in Kathmandu and Lhasa, and you can change cash easily everywhere.

Kamzang Journeys | Camping Menus
All meals on our Kamzang Journeys camping treks and cycling trips are prepared on site by our excellent chef Junar, our assistant chef Yam, and the hard-working kitchen team. The kitchen staff is well-trained in keeping the kitchen and food sanitized, and we sterilize all dishes, cups and utensils by steaming in boiling water before every use. All fruits and vegetables are soaked in iodine &/or baking soda, and our dining tent is well stocked with hand sanitizer, with soap and water for washing hands in front of the tent. 

Much of our produce on the trip is organic, sourced from local villages to ensuring that it’s fresh, plentiful and sustainable We also buy meat, grains, potatoes, staples and whatever possible en route to provide much needed income to the local villagers. We cater to all sorts of dietary restrictions, including vegetarians and vegans, gluten-free, dairy-free and those with various food allergies and preferences. All of our meals are vegetarian, although most meals have additional meat options. Types of food we serve on our camping trips range from Asian (Nepali, Indian, Tibetan, Thai and Chinese) to Italian and Mexican, and we always have PLENTY of food to fill you up, and keep you fueled for the next day’s adventures!

Just one of the many reasons our trekkers and cyclists return year after year.  A taste of what you’ll enjoy on our camping treks …

Breakfast
Freshly Ground Organic Coffee, Masala Chai & Teas
Freshly Baked Farmers’ Bread
Freshly Baked Wheat, Oat & Raisin Bread
Choice Of Eggs
Mexican, French & Masala Omelets
Aloo Anda (Potatoes & Scrambled Eggs)
Breakfast Burritos (Eggs, Tomatoes, Salsa, Cheese & Chapatti)
Huevos Rancheros (Eggs Rice, Beans Salsa & Chapatti)
Homemade Muesli
Porridges (Oat, Tsampa & Barley)
Crepes (Lemon, Chocolate & Local Apricot Jam)
Croissants (Sesame, Chocolate & Cheese)
Pancakes (Apple, Banana, Stacked & Buckwheat)
Dutch Baby Pancakes
Apple, Currant & Cinnamon Muffins
Cinnamon Spiced Rice Pudding
Cinnamon Rolls
Swedish Cardamon Rolls
Glazed Doughnuts
French Toast & Honey
Tibetan Bread With Local Jam
Cinnamon Sugar Chapattis
Masala Parathas & Sambar
Hash Browns
Fresh Fruit

Breads
Freshly Baked Farmers’ Bread
Freshly Baked Wheat & Oat Bread
Freshly Baked Cinnamon, Raisin & Nut Bread
Sun-Dried Tomato & Rosemary Flat Bread
Olive & Sundried Tomato Bread
Jalapeno & Cheese Corn Bread
Irish Soda & Currant Bread
Banana Bread
Zucchini Bread
Millet & Buckwheat Pancakes
Tai Roti (Paneer & Potato Bread)
Whole Wheat Roti & Chapattis
Cheese Biscuits
T Mo:Mos (Steamed Tibetan Bread)

Trail Lunch
Freshly Baked Breads
Himalayan Cheese
Herb & Olive Oil Paneer (Cottage Cheese)
Homemade Hummus & Baba Ghanoush
Herb & Olive Oil Infused Sun-Dried Tomatoes
Quinoa, Local Beans & Tahini Salad
Beet, Carrot & Cabbage Salad
Vegetable Fried Rice, Pilau & Biriyani
Kashmiri Rice (Coconut, Spices & Raisins)
Egg Fried, Lemon & Caribbean Tomato Rice
Mexican Rice & Beans
Thai Vegetable & Coconut Fried Rice
Vegetable Fried Potatoes
Potato & Celery Salad
Vegetable Fried Noodles
Chop Suey (Crispy Raman Noodles & Vegetables)
Tossed Pasta, Vegetable & Olive Oil Salads
Indian Samosas & Sweet Thai Chili
Millet Tabbouleh & Falafel
Smoked Salami
Tuna Salad
Deviled Eggs

Camp Lunch
Grilled Sandwiches (Tomato & Cheese, Cheese & Salami, Tuna & Cheese)
Tzadziki Wraps (Grilled Vegetables, Yogurt & Garlic)
Roasted Vegetable & Hummus Wraps
Asian Sesame & Bok Choy Noodles
Vegetable Spring Rolls & Asian Dipping Sauce
Chana Puri (Indian Chick Pea & Potato Ragout)
Sherpa Sha-Phaklay (Fried Mutton Flat Bread)
Baked Hand Pies (Vegetable & Paneer, Ham & Pea)
Thai Red Curry Coconut Noodles

Salads
Caesar Salad (Local Greens & Croutons)
Salad Niçoise & Isreali Salad
Beets, Paneer & Bread Panzanella

Soups & Stews
Fresh Pumpkin & Rosemary Soup
Fresh Potato & Spring Onion Soup
Fresh Carrot & Cilantro Soup
Fresh Chinese Tomato, Egg & Bok Choy Soup
Fresh Spinach & Mushroom Soup
Fresh Lentil & Local Beans Soup
French Onion Soup (Croutons & Cheese)
Fresh Nettle Soup
Spiced Coconut Carrot Soup
Fresh Pureed White & Black Bean Soup
Thai Tom Yum & Tom Kaa Soups (Bean Noodles)
Sherpa Shakpa (Potato, Shitake Mushroom & Vegetable Soup)
Tibetan Thukpa Noodle & Vegetable Soup
Asian Dried Mushroom, Ginger & Noodle Soup
Ramen Noodles With Egg & Vegetables
Thai Coconut & Coriander Soup
Tuscan Bread & Tomato Soup
Tomato Egg Drop Soup
Hot & Sour Soup With Chinese Dumplings
Spiced Chickpea Stew With Coconut & Turmeric

Dinner | General
Pizzas
Mexican Burritos
Mexican Baked Enchiladas & Rice-Beans
Southwestern Bean & Spinach Chili
Grilled Chicken & Mashed Potatoes
Quiche
Frittata
Couscous, Ratatouille & Italian Beans
Steamed Mo:Mos (Spinach, Paneer & Garlic, Potato & Cheese, Mutton)
Sherpa Potato Pancakes & Somar (Fermented Cheese, Green Onions & Chili)
Sherpa Shakpa (Potato & Vegetable, Potato (&/Or Meat) Stew)
Tibetan Thukpa (Noodle, Vegetable Soup)
Potato, Cheese, Onion (& Ham) Casserole
Mutton & Vegetable-Lentil Burgers
Polenta, Baked Vegetables & Cheese
Tuscan Fish & Potato Ragout
Gnocchi
Sushi Rolls

Dinner | Pasta
Spaghetti, Linguine & Penne Pastas
Italian Pasta Sauces (Vegetable, Garlic & Olive Oil, Bolognaise, Puttanesca, Carbonara)
Tossed Pastas (Pesto & Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Sautéed Garlic, Olives & Mushroom)
Lasagna (Spinach, Mushroom, Eggplant & Tomato)
Ravioli With Tomato, Spinach & Garlic Sauce (Mushroom & Spinach, Mushroom & Cheese, Ham, Pumpkin & Rosemary)
Mongolian Fried Sesame & Ginger Noodles (Vegetable & Mutton)

Dinner | Rice
Thai Masman, Panang, Red & Green Coconut Curries (Vegetable Or Chicken)
Bhutanese Ema Datsi (Chili & Cheese, Mushroom Or Potato)
Palak Paneer (Spinach & Paneer)
South Indian Coconut Vegetable & Chicken Curries
Shahi Paneer, Vegetable & Chicken Curries (Yogurt)
Butter Chicken & Mutton Masala Curries
Indian Masala Curries (Vegetable, Cauliflower, Mushroom, Pumpkin, Potato & Pea)
Masala Kofta (Potato & Paneer Curry)
Dal Makani (Black Dal & Butter) & Local Dals (Lentil Curries)
Asian Ginger Broccoli & Sesame Cabbage
Asian Black Bean Sauce (Vegetables & Tofu)
Chinese Egg & Tomato Curry
Chinese Stir-Fried Vegetables
Poha (Indian Flattened Rice)

Vegetables, Beans & Potatoes
French Fries (Chips)
Mashed Garlic & Roasted Potatoes
Italian Rosemary Sauteed Potatoes
Roasted Rosemary Beets & Sweet Potatoes
Italian Sauteed White Beans, Cabbage & Potatoes
Italian Sauteed Garlicky White Beans, Broccoli (Kale) & Lemon
Lana’s Stacked Green Vegetables (& Cheese)
Mashed Garlic Cauliflower
Baked Zucchini & Egg Casserole
Eggplant & Zucchini Parmesan
Stuffed Capsicum, Squash & Zucchini
Steamed Broccoli & Cauliflower, Olive Oil & Lemon
Coconut Sesame Vegetables
Japanese Vegetable Tempura
Chinese Ginger Vegetables
Alu Sandekho

Snacks
Cheese, Pate & Crackers
Potato Cheese Balls
Masala Papadum & Peanuts
Jalapeños & Cheese Quesadilla
Bruschetta (Tomato, Olive Oil & Olive Tapenade)
Garlic & Olive Oil Crustini
Tempura (Vegetables, Paneer & Rice Flour)
Pakora (Vegetables & Chick Pea Flour)
Green Pea Guacamole
Stuffed Pea Parathas
Indian Pakora & Tempura
Fried Potato, Rice & Corn Snacks
Cumin Nimkins

Desserts
Fresh Fruit Salad
Coffee-Infused Dark Chocolate Dumplings
Chocolate, Muesli & Nut Fortune Cookie Pastries
‘Marie’ Rum, Raisin & Chocolate Balls
Mango & Apple Cinnamon Crepes
Apple Pie & Crisp (Crumble)
Apple & Apricot Tarte
Apple, Apricot, Banana, Papaya & Plum Cobblers
Apple & Banana Fritters
Banana Flambe
Gulab Jamun (Indian Doughnut Holes)
Homemade Spiced Apple Sauce
Homemade Apple Pie
Apple, Carrot, Ginger & Pumpkin Spice Cakes
Bread & Butter Pudding
Spiced Pumpkin & Apple Suiji
Grated Apple Suji (Indian Semolina)
Soan Papdi (Indian Halva) & Kheer
Dark & White Chocolate Chunk Custard
Chocolate Chunk Pan Cookies
Dark Chocolate-Covered Digestives
Chai Masala Cookies
Lemon Bars
Brownies
No-Bake Chocolate Oat Bars (Peanut Butter)
Dark Chocolates

Coffee, Teas & Hot Drinks
Organic Coffee Beans
Masala Chail
Kashmiri Spiced Green Tea
Green & Assam Teas
Variety Of Dilmah Teas
Hot Chocolate
Lemon Ginger Tea

Grog
Kamzang Hot Rum Punch
Local Beers & Rum

Trip Advisor Reviews

Client Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments

Trek Highlights

• Kharta Valley & Kangshung Face of Everest Trek
• Sacred Kailash Kora
• Vignettes of Old Tibet & Western Tibet Drive
• Lhasa | Potala Palace, Jokhang, Drepung & Sera Gompas, Barkor Square & Tibetan Quarter
• Shigatse & Tashilunpo Monasterys
• Gyantse, Palkor Chode Monastery + Kumbum
• Everest’s Southeast Kangshung Face
• Makalu & Chomo Lonzo Peaks from Tibet
• Spectacular Crossing of Langma La Pass
• Tibet Everest Base Camp
• Rongbuk Monastery
• Rasuwa Ghadi Border from Tibet to Nepal
• Exotic Kathmandu & World Heritage Sightseeing

Kamzang Journeys Camping Menus
Camping Menus

Cafe Caravan | Bistro & Gallery at Boudhanath
Cafe Caravan

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Kamzang Journeys Menus
Camp Menus

Cafe Caravan | Bistro & Gallery at Boudhanath
Cafe Caravan

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Articles & Videos on Tibet
David Koelle | YouTube Video | Kamzang Journeys | The Ladakh Great Himalayan Bicycle Trip

Everesting | Cycling Tips YouTube

50 Years After the Raid into Tibet | Nepali Times

The Lost World of Tibet | BBC

Pico Iyer Tibet | BBC Travel

China Fences in its Nomads & an Ancient Life Withers | New York Times

The Last Dalai Lama? | New York Times

The Extraordinary Life of Alexandra David-Neel

Alexandra David-Neel | Adventure Journal

A Tibetan’s Journey for Justice | New York Times

As the Dalai Lama Turns 80, Tibet Still Suffers | Wall Street Journal

Tibetan Fight to Salvage Fading Culture in China | New York Times

A Showcase of Tibetan Culture Serves Chinese Political Goals | New York Times

Raid into Tibet | The Record Nepal

Raid into Tibet Video | Tashi Phuntsok FB

Tibet Never Before Seen Footage | TIME

The World Has a Third Pole & It’s Melting Quickly | The Guardian

Dancing Below the Potala Palace | Lhasa, Tibet | Kim Bannister YouTube

Jokhang Prostrations | Lhasa, Tibet | Kim Bannister YouTube

Barkor Kora | Lhasa, Tibet | Kim Bannister YouTube

Kangshung Face Articles
Kangshung Face of Everest | American Alpine Club

Four Against the Kangshung | American Alpine Club

Everest by the Venables Direct Route | Mark Horrell Blog

Asian Corridor in Heaven Documentaries
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 1) or (Part 1) | The Last Horse Caravan (no subtitles)
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 2) | Road to Pilgrimage
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 3) | Tea Makes the Road Open
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 4) | The Salt in Yanjing
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 5) | Himalayan Salt Trek
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 6) | Guge Mystery of the Lost Kingdom

Dolpo Prints & Paintings
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath.