The Great Lhasa Kathmandu Bicycle Journey
Tibet Himalaya Cycling Trip
One of the Himalaya’s most spectacular and scenic bicycle rides, our Great Lhasa Kathmandu Bicycle Journey spans over 1000 kilometers across Tibet’s spectacular high plateau, the ‘roof of the world’, crossing the Himalaya as we cycle from Lhasa to Kathmandu. Our challenging Tibet cycling trip includes a ride to Everest Base Camp via Rongbuk Monastery, and our new route takes us from Tingri to the Rasuwa Ghadi (Langtang) border to Kathmandu, cycling on good, paved roads for the entire trip.
Our Tibet bike journey begins in Lhasa, the exotic capital of Tibet, where we explore this history-laden city with its ancient Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, the Potala Palace, dzongs (fortresses) and its bustling markets. During our Tibet bicycle trip, we cycle over six major Himalayan passes on the Lhasa to Kathmandu road, cycling parallel to the Himalayan range which forms the borders of Bhutan, Sikkim and Nepal. En route, we visit Tibet’s famous monastery towns of Gyantse, Shigatse, Tingri and Shegar, visiting their resplendent Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, we explore timelessTibetan towns, camp near traditional nomadic settlements and often share the plateau with yaks and nomads. Cycling towards Everest Base Camp and Rongbuk Monastery, the road climbs through almost fifty hairpin bends to reach the Pang La, which rewards us with a spectacular panorama of the Himalayan range, including Everest.
From Tingri, an old trading post on the ancient Silk Route, we cycle past the turquoise Pelku Tso Lake and Shishapangma to Kyirong and the border of Nepal. Crossing the border out of Tibet, we finish the trip with a long, epic downhill through the Langtang (Rasuwa) region of Nepal to the Trisuli River and Nuwakot, and finally Kathmandu.
An epic bicycle journey from Tibet to Nepal, cycling through the ‘abode of the snows’ and land of Tibetan Buddhist lamas, where nomads in yak-hair tents roam the plateaus with their yaks, a land of spectacular, snow-topped peaks and the wonderful, spirited Tibetans themselves!
Our Tibet bicycling trip has six major Himalayan passes, many over 5000 meters!
Trip
The Great Lhasa Kathmandu Bicycle Journey | Langtang (Rasuwa) Border Route – Tibet Himalayan Bicycle Trip
Day 0 – Early Arrival Kathmandu
Day 00 – Kathmandu | Passport, Visa Photo Collection & Bicycle Rentals (Short Back Streets of Kathmandu Cycle)
Day 1 – Meet in Kathmandu 1340m | Bikes Packed + Collected for Tibet
Day 2 – Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing
Day 3 – Fly Lhasa | Barkor Kora Evening Walk
Day 4 – Lhasa | Jokhang Temple & Potala Palace
Day 5 – Lhasa | Bike Sera + Drepung Monasteries
+ Extra Day – Lhasa | Bike Ganden Gompa 4265m
Day 6 – Bike Khamba Camp (Khamba La Base Camp)
Day 7 – Bike Nakartse Camp (Yamdrok Tso Lake) | Cross Khamba La 4790m
Day 8 – Bike Ralung Gompa + Ralung Camp | Cross Karo La 5060m
Day 9 – Bike Gyantse | Cross Simi La 4348m
Day 10 – Bike Shalu Gompa & Shigatse | Visit Tashi Lunpo Monastery
Day 11 – Bike Gyal Tongso Camp | Cross Tha La 4050m
Day 12 – Bike Gyatso La Base Camp Camp (Chawu) | Cross Tso La (Yulung La) 4520m
Day 13 – Bike Shegar Lolo Camp | Cross Gyatso La (Lhakpa La) 5230m
Day 14 – Bike Panding | Cross Gyawu La (Pang La) 5200
Day 15 – Bike Rongbuk Gompa | Cycle Tibet Everest Base Camp 5150m
Day 16 – Bike Tingri & Tsamda Camp | Cross Lamma La 5120m
Day 17 – Tsamda | Rest Day
Day 18 – Bike Shisha Bridge Camp
Day 19 – Bike Peklu Tso + Talung La Base Camp
Day 20 – Bike Dzongka & Kyirong | Cross Tsalung La 5280m
Day 21 – Bike Nepal Border (Rasuwa Ghadi) | Drive (or Cycle) Dunche or Nuwakot Famous Farm
Day 22 – Drive (or Cycle) Kathmandu
Day 23 – Kathmandu
Day 24 – Trip Ends
Total Cycling Distance
+ 1088 km or 653 miles from Lhasa to Nepal Border
+ 150 Rasuwa Ghadi to Kathmandu.
Travel Advice Nepal & Tibet
+ Purchase travel insurance with helicopter evacuation!
+ Purchase trip cancellation + travel insurance
+ Travelers need 3 working days to get a Chinese Visa in Kathmandu! You’ll need to arrive 2 days before the trip starts, but don’t need to stay in Kathmandu. We can arrange a great trip to Chitwan at Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge or Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, as well as elsewhere.
Private Trips & Customized Journeys
We’d love to customize a private trip or extension for you according to your dates. We can customize your journey to include more days in the Kathmandu Valley, Chitwan or Bardia National Park, Pokhara, Bhutan, Tibet or elsewhere. Inquire for helicopter tours and travel options!
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Lonely Planet Tibet | Cycling in Tibet
“Many of Nepal’s established trekking companies also run Tibet bike tours, notably the foreign-run Kamzang Journeys.”
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
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Cycle the Himalaya
Ladakh Sky Kingdoms Cycle Trip Video | Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa
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Ladakh Sky Kingdoms Cycle Trip Video | David Koelle
Kamzang Journeys | The Ladakh Great Himalayan Bicycle Trip
Chitwan National Park | Maruni Sanctuary Lodge
Amazing Nepal Heritage Tour | Kathmandu, Chitwan, Bandipur & Pokhara
Chitwan & Bardia Luxury Wildlife Safaris | Tiger Tops Lodges
Tiger Tops Wildlife Safaris | Chitwan Tharu Lodge + Bardia Karnali Lodge
Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa.
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Duffel bags, t-shirts, camp towels, buffs, handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes + bags, Himalayan textile pillow covers + more available in Kathmandu!
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Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
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Itinerary
The Great Lhasa Kathmandu Bicycle Journey | Langtang (Rasuwa) Border Route – Tibet Himalayan Cycling Trip
Early Arrival Kathmandu | Passports for Chinese Visas
Welcome to Nepal! Plan to arrive 2 days early in Kathmandu as we need your passports for Chinese visas two days before the trip starts (on Day 0). You’ll be met at the Tribuvhan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it. Rajendra +977 9841623270 +/or the Kathmandu Guest House driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden and cafe(s) and recover from your jetlag. Kim’s mobile is +977 9803414745 (WhatsApp).
Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically clad backpackers.
Extra Days
We are happy to arrange trips to Bhaktapur, Bandipur, Nuwakot, Pokhara, Chitwan or Bardia National Park, Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort & Spa, Shivapuri Heights or bicycling, hiking or touring in the Kathmandu Valley on your free days. Or consider an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour!
Day 00 – Kathmandu | Passport, Visa Photo Collection + Bike Rentals
Meet at 8:30 AM in the garden of the Kathmandu guest house with passports, Chinese visa photos and bikes packed. The bikes will start on their long overland journey to Lhasa today with the staff, and Lhakpa will apply for the Chinese visas with your passports and Chinese visa photos. Those who need to rent bikes will go to SingleTrack Nepal in Thamel to get fitted for rental bikes, and then take the bikes out on a short spin around the back streets of Kathmandu to check them out. You’ll have the rest of the afternoon to do some sightseeing in Kathmandu on foot or by bike.
Day 1 – Kathmandu 1340m | Bikes Packed + Collected for Tibet
he day is free for sightseeing in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley if you haven’t traveled to Chitwan, Bardia, Bandipur, Nuwakot, Pokhara or elsewhere! Shop, visit the spa, have a massage or relax Kathmandu Guest House gardens and cafes. We’ll have time for gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to, and in the evening will head out to New Orleans or Dechenling for dinner. (B)
Day 2 – Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing
Another free day to explore Kathmandu, take excursions into the Kathmandu valley, have a massage, do some yoga, enjoy the cafes or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. In the evening will head out for dinner of wood-oven pizza, beers and wine at the Roadhouse Cafe.
ALTITUDE | We strongly advise taking 250 mg of Diamox before the flight up to Lhasa at 3700 meters. Take either 125 or 250 mg tonight and one tomorrow morning, and then continue for a day or so until we discuss further in Lhasa. (B)
Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!
Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji
Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)
Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.
We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.
Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.
Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.
In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’ stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.
Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.
Day 3 – Fly Lhasa 3660m (Gonggar Airport) | Barkhor Kora Evening Walk
We’ll leave the hotel mid-morning for our spectacular hour long China Air flight, which crosses the main Himalayan range, flying over the Himalayan 8000-meter peaks of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kanchenjunga, magnificent Himalayan panoramas! After landing at Gonggar Airport and meeting our Tibetan guide, we drive 45 minutes into Lhasa. We check in to our Tibetan-owned hotel, the Yak Hotel, situated near the Jokhang Temple and Barkor Square, where the character of the old city is still quite Tibetan. Welcome to Lhasa, the ‘City of the Gods’ (or ‘Sunlight City’ due to the 3000 hours of sunshine yearly)!
In the evening, have a walk to the Jokhang Temple and Barkor Kora and do some photography koras with the Tibetan pilgrims from around Tibet and local Lhasa-pa in the intense late afternoon light, endlessly photogenic and always a very powerful experience. Another atmospheric time of day to walk the kora is before breakfast, with the chill still in the air and juniper incense from the burners wafting up into the air. There has been a lot of change in ‘old Lhasa’ in the past 20 years, including the removal of the Tibetan vendors that used to line the Barkor Square Kora, security gates to enter the Jokhang Barkor region, the installation of ‘modern’ old style street lamps, Chinese shops and pseudo Tibetan shops, mostly run by Chinese, but this part of Lhasa still retains some of its old world charm.
Some of our favorite restaurants and cafes are Dunya (right next door to the hotel), Makye Ame (along the Barkor Kora), Tibetan Family Kitchen (behind Jokhang, in a small alleyway), Old Lap Rang Tibetan Family Restaurant (last quarter of kora, inside), House of Shambala (back streets of Barkor), Ganglamedo (across the street from the hotel) & Western Cafe (just around the corner towards Barkor) although there are many and it’s fun to explore the Tibetan section of Lhasa. Namaste, Tashi 1 + Snowland also get good marks. Great street eats to be found near the mosque on the opposite side of the Jokhang Temple along the Barkor Kora. (B)
Days 4 + 5 – Lhasa | Sightseeing + Cycling Lhasa Valley
Lhasa! We have two days to wander the streets of the Tibetan section of Lhasa, and continue with our cycle explorations of Lhasa’s Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and the iconic Potala Palace, once home to the Dalai Lamas. Lhasa is a very cycle friendly city and cycling to the nearby monasteries is a perfect way to get our cycling legs ready for the upcoming ride through Tibet!
Over the following two days we visit some of the most important sites in and around Lhasa with our Tibetan guide. Late afternoons will be free for you to discover the endlessly fascinating bazaars, walk koras around the Jokhang with the myriad other pilgrims, or sit in the Barkor square, immersing yourself in the exoticism of Lhasa. There is also the option of additional tours to places such as the Tibetan Medical Centre, Ganden Monastery or Tsurphu Monastery (small extra cost). (B)
Drepung + Sera Monasteries Cycle Day Trip
Distance: 36.93km Elevation Gain: 417m Elevation Loss: 416m
Sera is one of the best preserved monasteries in Tibet, renown for its lively debating sessions in the courtyard each afternoon. Within its whitewashed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study. Drepung was founded in the 14th century and was once the largest gompa in the world with a population of around 10,000 monks. These days the figure has been reduced to several hundred, but there is still much of interest to see here, as the structure escaped relatively unscathed during the Cultural Revolution. (20 km)
Lhasa Sightseeing
Jokhang Temple + Barkor Kora
Jokhang, the holiest temple in Tibet, and shelters the sacred Jowo Sakyamuni statue. Shuffle among the pilgrims, butter lamps permeating the air, and find gruesome Gods in hidden annexes. There is always a procession of devout Tibetans throughout the complex. The temple was damaged in a fire in early 2018, but fortunately not much damage was done to the sacred gompa, statues or relics.
After walking the holy inner Jokhang kora, complete a circuit of the Barkhor, the streets surrounding the Jokhang to increase the good karma. The Barkhor kora is a circumambulation of cobbled streets surrounding the Jokhang Temple, once the best ‘market kora’ to shop for all things Tibetan. The market has now been moved a few blocks away inside a covered bazaar; Kim has lots of practice shopping in Tibet, and is happy to assist!
Drepung, Nechung + Sera Monasteries
Sera Gompa is one of the best preserved monasteries in Tibet, renown for its lively debating sessions in the courtyard each afternoon. Within its whitewashed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study. Drepung Gompa was founded in the 14th century and was once the largest gompa in the world with a population of around 10,000 monks. These days the figure has been reduced to several hundred, but there is still much of interest to see here, as the structure escaped relatively unscathed during the Cultural Revolution. Just below Drepung is the tantric monastery of Nechung Gompa, referred to as ‘ the Demon Fortress of the Oracle King’. This interesting monastery was the seat of the State Oracle until the Dalai Lama fled Tibet in 1959. The oracle became possessed by the protector deity Pehar and acted as a mouthpiece for the deity, often not having knowledge of what he said. The position of oracle came from the older Bon tradition …
Potala Palace
The magnificent white, black, red and gold Potala Palace dominates the skyline of Lhasa. It was the winter quarters of the Dalai Lama, housing jewel-encrusted gold and silver stupas of previous Dalai Lamas, numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.
Norbulingka Summer Palace
Norbulingka is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, set in a quiet and relaxing garden which used to house the Dalai Lama’s pets. One particularly interesting mural inside depicts the history of Tibet and all the Dalai Lamas.
Tibetan + Muslim Quarters
The small alleys in the old Tibetan Quarter of Lhasa are endlessly fascinating, with an incredible variety of delicious street food near the mosque, yersa gumbu on sale in many shops, some boutique hotels and shops and great photography opportunities!
Extra Day – Lhasa | Bike Ganden Gompa 4265m
A scenic 36-kilometer cycle to the Gelugpa Ganden Monastery, on of the ‘three great’ Gelugpa monasteries in Tibet. Ganden is situated atop Wangbur Mountain in Tagtse County. Its full name is Ganden (meaning joyful, the Tibetan name for Tusita, the heaven where the bodhisattva Maitreya is said to reside) and Namgyal Ling (victorious temple).
Ganden was founded by Je Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelugpa tradition, in 1409. It’s history is interesting so I will quote from Wikipedia: ‘The Ganden Tripa or ‘throne-holder of Ganden’ is the head of the Gelukpa school. Tsongkhapa’s preserved body was entombed there in a silver and gold encrusted tomb by his disciples in 1419. Being the farthest from Lhasa of the three university monasteries, Ganden traditionally had a smaller population with some 6,000 monks in the early 20th century (although Waddell reports an estimate of about 3,300 in the 1890s and there were, apparently only 2,000 in 1959. At this time there are about 170 monks.
Ganden Monastery consisted of two principal original colleges, Jangtse and Shartse, meaning North Peak and East Peak respectively. The three main sights in the Ganden Monastery are the Serdung, which contains the tomb of Tsongkhapa, the Tsokchen Assembly Hall and the Ngam Cho Khang the chapel where Tsongkhapa traditionally taught. The monastery houses artifacts which belonged to Tsongkhapa. It contained more than two dozen major chapels with large Buddha statues. The largest chapel was capable of seating 3,500 monks. Tenzin Gyatso, the present Dalai Lama (born 1935), took his final degree examination in Ganden in 1958 and he claims to feel a particularly close connection with Tsongkhapa.
Ganden was completely destroyed during the rebellion of 1959. In 1966 it was severely shelled by Red Guard artillery and monks then had to dismantle the remains. Most of Tsongkhapa’s mummified body was burned but his skull and some ashes were saved from the fire by Bomi Rinpoche, the monk who had been forced to carry the body to the fire. Re-building has been continuing since the 1980s and the “red-painted lhakang in the centre is the reconstruction of Ganden’s sanctum sanctorum containing Tsongkapa’s reliquary chorten called the Tongwa Donden, ‘Meaningful to Behold.’ – Wikipedia
The kora of Ganden, around the small Wangbur Mountain, takes about 45 minutes and is a great way to come into contact with Tibetan pilgrims, attired in their pilgrimage best. You might be lucky to witness a sky burial on a nearby hillside, a tradition rarely found anymore in Tibet; be respectful and keep a distance if you are fortunate enough to chance upon a sky burial.
We can either cycle back to Lhasa or throw our bikes into a van and drive the return trip, after our switchbacking descent to the valley below. (70 km) (B)
Day 6 – Bike Khamba Camp (Khamba La Base Camp) 3605m
Distance: 83.67km Elevation Gain: 380m Elevation Loss: 403m
Our Tibetan cycling begins with a 20 km ‘city ride’ out of Lhasa, following the van as there are many turns to get out of the city traffic! The cycle is a long but relatively flat one, a great acclimation to get ready for the many passes and the high Tibetan plateau ahead. Leaving the bustle of Lhasa, we cycle along a scenic, willow and popular lined and paved road following the Lhasa River past small Tibetan villages, with freshly planted barley fields, possibly stopping for a bowl of homemade thukpa at the turnoff to Nyethang Drolma Lhakang (Gompa) about 30 km out of Lhasa. En route, we may pass Tibetans on leather-studded motorcycles, steering horse carts, or on foot performing prostrations to sacred pilgrimage spots. These days most of the traffic is Chinese-made Mercedes, VWs, Land Rovers and other expensive cars manufactured in China.
The roads are very good, following the Lhasa Chu adorned with lung-ta (Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags) for the first approximately 30 km, passing through a tunnel and then crossing the wide river on a new bridge. We reach the intersection of the Yarlung Sangpo after 30 km, and continue to follow this major river for the rest of the dya. We’ll stop for lunch on the river, under some shady trees, with a scenic view of Shedrukling Gompa, a Gelugpa monastery with apparently questionable teachings and no resident lama. Look for brown-headed gulls on the river. The roads for the last 50 km of the ride are still good, but smaller country roads, lovely cycling. We pass a larger village called Changthang near the end of the ride, eventually spotting our campsite ahead.
The team has set up our first Kamzang camp of the trip near the village of Khamba, the base camp for tomorrow’s Khamba La crossing. Khamba is just above Bumthang in Bhutan, an interesting aside. Our jeep drivers called this place Larum, perhaps the village just below our camp where cold beers are available! (B, L, D)
Day 7 – Bike Nakartse Camp (Yamdrok Tso Lake) 4450m | Cross Khamba La 4790m
Distance: 60.69km Elevation Gain: 1,365m Elevation Loss: 540m
The climbing starts early as we switchback 1200 meters up the Khamba La pass (4790m) over about 23 kilometers to overlook the turquoise Yamdrok Tso far below. The road is well graded and incredibly scenic as we cycle up the pass, with plenty of stops for photos and water. Yamdrok Tso is one of the four holy lakes of Tibet, shaped like a crab and home to wrathful deities, a spectacular site. Be ready to have your photo taken at the top of the pass with yaks, Tibetan mastiffs and goat by enterprising Tibetans, and perhaps hang some Buddhist prayer flags on top of the pass.
After an incredible and long switchback down the pass towards Yamdrok Tso, we stop for a well earned lunch just above the lake, near the village of Yamdrok. We continue to cycle along the river side road through the fertile plain of the Nyang River valley, a traditional vignette around every corner and migratory birds feeding near the lake. At the end of the lake we make a turn around the last finger of the lake, heading left at Baidi, the first major village we reach. About 10 more kilometers to reach our grassy campsite at the far end of the lake near the small village of Nakartse, a long but rewarding day of cycling. (B, L, D)
Day 8 – Bike Ralung Gompa 4750m + Ralung Camp 4505m | Cross Karo La 5060m
Distance: 60.69km Elevation Gain: 1,365m Elevation Loss: 540m
Continuing to cycle on good, paved roads, we bike past small villages relatively easily for about 10 km up the prayer flag adorned Karo La (5060m), sight of the highest battlefield of the 20th century war with the British. The Karo La cuts a path between Himalayan glaciers, bring a warm jacket. A fast descent past a melting glacier on our right leads to a beautiful, green valley peppered with small Tibetan villages, with peaks in the near distance. We turn left on a dirt road, cycling for about 5 bumpy km on an unpaved road to Ralung Monastery.
Approximately 15 monks reside at Ralung Gompa, which was founded in 1830. The monastery, the traditional seat of the Drukpa school of Kargyu Buddhism, was mostly destroyed during the cultural revolution, and is filled with atmosphere and history. Have a look down at the ruins of the old stupa and monastery complex from the rooftop. The monasterie’s name originated from the self-emanating goat (ra in Tibetan), and the fact that it’s surrounded by mountains, and the Shabdrung Rimpoche of Bhutan was the 18th abbot of this monastery.
After visiting the gompa, we have about 5 km of bumpy downhill right to our campsite off the road, next to a lovely, warm stream, just below tomorrow’s Simu La pass. This is the only section where a mountain bike is the best option! (B, L, D)
Day 9 – Bike Gyantse 4025m | Cross Simi La 4348m
Distance: 53.65km Elevation Gain: 181m Elevation Loss: 617m
A relatively easy morning’s ascent to the Simi La (4348m), followed by a long, cruising downhill to reach the historic city of Gyantse. Leaving camp at Ralung, the road is quite flat, and we gain altitude gradually as we cycle through some of the trip’s most scenic landscapes. We cycle along the Yarlung Sangpo, gradually gaining a slight bit of altitude as we crest the Simi La, a pass overlooking the dammed river. There is a lookout at the pass, interesting to look down on an old fortress or customs tower and the dammed river. The cruise downhill is a great one, starting on a cliffside road, and soon reaching level ground cycling through more green, incredibly beautiful countryside, passing traditional Tibetan villages and planted, checkered fields. Passing through two police checkposts, we reach the outskirts of Gyantse early afternoon, cycle to the hotel and after a rest, head out with our guide to visit the Gyantse Fort complex.
Once in Gyantse, we’ll check into the Yeti Hotel, a great hotel with a wonderful restaurant and friendly staff, and head out for a walk around town to stretch our legs. Gyantse, strategically located in the Nyang Chu valley, was once part of an ancient trade route from the Chumbi Valley, Yatung and Sikkim. From Gyantse, trade routes led south to Shigatse and also over the Karo La into Central Tibet. The Gyantse Dzong (fort), built in 1390, guarded the southern approaches to the Yarlung Tsangpo Valley and Lhasa, and the town was surrounded by a long, protective wall 3 kilometers in length. Part of this wall still survives and is a dramatic backdrop for photos. Gyantse was once the third largest city in Tibet but was overtaken by Younghusband and the British in 1904. During the fierce battle, Tibetan forces fought the British for most of two months with dire consequences for both sides. (See ‘Younghusband’ by Patrick French).
We’ll visit the 15th century Palkor Chode Monastery and the magnificent Kumbum, translated as ‘100,000 images’, the largest chorten in Tibet. Kumbum was commissioned by a Gyantse prince in 1427 and was an important center of the Sakya school. It still contains 77 chapels within its six floors and is illustrated with over 10,000 murals, many still intact and exhibiting a strong Nepali influence, the last of their kind to be found in Tibet.
‘The town of Gyantse was nearly destroyed by flooding in 1954, and after rioting in 1959, local industries were dismantled and artisans fled while others were placed in workcamps. Some 400 monks and laypeople were imprisoned in the monastery. During the Cultural Revolution the fort, the monastery and Kumbum were ransacked. Precious objects were destroyed or sent out of Tibet. Fortunately, the chorten was spared. The main building of the Pelkor Chode or Palcho Monastery and the Kumbum have been largely restored but the dzong or fort is still largely in ruins but there is an Anti-British Imperialism Museum there which gives the Chinese version of the 1904 British invasion.’ – Wikipedia. (B, L)
Day 10 – Bike Shalu Gompa 3890m + Shigatse 3850m | Visit Tashi Lhunpo Gompa
Distance: 92.70km Elevation Gain: 133m Elevation Loss: 319m
Great riding this morning on a nearly flat road, through more beautiful, green countryside, following the Nyang Chu and cycling past barley fields, grazing goats and small villages surrounded by snow peaks. We’ll stretch our legs, make some time, enjoy the sun and traditional Tibetan scenery, stopping along the way for lunch and perhaps a cup of salt-butter tea.
En route to Shigatse, after about 70 km of cycling, we will take a lovely, small road to the left, cycling for 3 km up (and back) to visit Shalu Gompa. Shalu was founded in 1040, the first of Tibet’s monasteries to be built by a noble family, and packs more culture and atmosphere than most of Tibet’s more visited monasteries. The monastery, of the Sakya tradition, was renown for its incredible murals, and was a center of scholarly learning. Returning back to the road, we soon reach the city limits of Shigatse, previously known as Samdruptse, where we will stop for the evening at Manasoravar Hotel.
Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet and is home to perhaps the best preserved and most controversial monastery in Tibet, Tashi Lhunpo Gompa. This Gelugpa monastery, administered by the Panchen Lama, the second most important lama in Tibet, is one of the largest functioning monasteries in Tibet, and there is much to explore within its surrounding walls. We will take a few hours for a visit to Tashi Lhunpo, perhaps doing a kora and look over to the massive Shigatse Fort.
‘In the 19th century, the ‘Tashi’ or Panchen Lama had temporal power over Tashilhunpo Monastery and three small districts, though not over the town of Shigatse itself, which was administered by two Dzongpön (prefects) appointed from Lhasa. Before military conflict between the PRC’s People’s Liberation Army and the Central Tibetan Administration, the Tibetan territory was divided into 53 prefecture districts called Dzongs. There were two Dzongpöns for every Dzong—a lama (Tse-dung) and a layman. They were entrusted with both civil and military powers and are equal in all respects, though subordinate to the generals and the Chinese Amban in military matters. However, there were only one or two Ambans representing the Chinese emperor residing in Lhasa, directing a little garrison, and their power installed since 1728, progressively declined to end-up as observer at the eve of their expulsion in 1912 by the 13th Dalai Lama. In 1952, shortly after the PRC sent forces to the region, Shigatse had a population of perhaps 12,000 people, making it the second largest city in Tibet.’ – Wikipedia.
After visiting Tashi Lhunpo, will have dinner at a nearby restaurant owned by the same people that own our hotel.
(B, L)
Day 11 – Bike Gyal Tongso Camp 4170m | Cross Tha La 4050m
Distance: 96.63km Elevation Gain: 704m Elevation Loss: 362 m
We start the morning with a gradual climb, cycling along the beautiful Ra Chu River as we approach the Tha La (4050m), a barely noticeable pass. We bike about 10 km past Tashi Lhunpo to get out of Shigatse; the road isn’t as good as on previous days, with more undulations, and not quite as smooth. We cycle about 30 km through green countryside, passing Tibetan villages, to reach the small Tha La, passing many turnoffs to small monasteries en route. After crossing the small Tha La, we descend slightly, but gain about 300 meters in altitude during the course of the day so the descent isn’t very significant. The road improves, and the riding is always scenic as we cycling along the river and head towards our campsite after lunch.
The staff has set up camp at the turnoff past an ancient chorten (mile marker 97), a lovely green campsite between three small, traditional hamlets but without much water for washing. Locals told us this spot is called Jetze, and we’ll probably have some visitors (and sheep) in the afternoon. Enjoy the beautiful setting, and have a wander to one of the small hamlets nearby. (97 km) (B, L, D)
Day 12 – Bike Gyatso La Base Camp Camp (Chawu) 4115m | Cross Tso La (Yulung La) 4520m
Distance: 62.82km Elevation Gain: 538m Elevation Loss: 564m
Another Tibetan pass today, although a bit higher than yesterday’s. We start the morning with an approximately 20 km ascent of the Tso La (Yulung La) pass (4520m), where we’re rewarded with spectacular Himalayan views and a great 450+ meter descent. After photos on the top we continue to cycle a good, flat and relatively straight road past scenic Tibetan villages to the dusty and busy market town of Lhatse (4012m), the crossroads to sacred Mount Kailash in far western Tibet. Note the statue of the dancing and singing Tibetans just before reaching Lhatse.
After lunch in a local restaurant in Lhatse, we turn left have a small but steady climb, again taking the left fork to our camp below the Gyatso La. The camp is another beautiful one, at an official picnic ground on the river, a grassy spot perfect for an afternoon wash. (B, L, D)
Day 13 – Bike Shegar Lolo Camp 4445m | Cross Gyatso La (Lhakpa La) 5230m
Distance: 67.54km Elevation Gain: 1,114m Elevation Loss: 915m
Start the morning with a strong cup of freshly brewed coffee as we begin the day with a challenging but steady climb to the high point of our ride, the Gyatso La (Lhakpa La on some maps) (5230m), where we’ll have our first views of Everest. Yaks graze on the hillsides, dotted with local Tibetan doksas, as we slowly bike up the pass. The pass is a wide, busy road, with vendors and a mass of prayer flags, not notable except for the vast Himalayan vistas. We’ll enjoy the long descent towards Shegar, one of the gateways to Everest Base Camp (the other being Tingri), and stopping for lunch part way down the descent. The last 10 or so kilometers are flat-ish, and we again cycle past a few small villages before reaching our camp before Shegar at Lolo.
We’ll drive the 15 +/- km to visit Shegar Fort and Shegar Gompa for those who are interested. The site has been unbelievably developed during the past few years, and retains little of the charm or atmosphere of the old ‘Old Shegar’, but is worth a visit to see the wonderful, old Shegar Monastery (4420m) on top of a hill, one side dropping down to the fields far below. (B, L, D)
Day 14 – Bike Panding 4235m | Cross Gyawu La (Pang La) 5200
Distance: 60.57km Elevation Gain: 1,052m Elevation Loss: 1,134m
Today’s ride features yet another challenging Himalayan ascent of the high Pang La , only slightly lower than yesterday’s pass. Cycling the nearly 20 km past Shegar, on a flat road, passing villages and colorful prayer flags over the river, we have yet another high pass to cycle over, a challenging but well graded switchback up to the top of the Pang La (Gyawu La) (5200m). Turning left and entering Chomolungma (Everest) National Park, we cycle for about 10 km on a flatish road, with beautiful scenery surrounding us as we bike towards Everest Base Camp. The switchbacks begin abruptly, about 20 km of turns to reach the Pang La, a flat pass with a viewpoint on the Himalayan side where we’re treated to amazing Himalayan views including Everest.
We’ll have lunch at the top, and start on perhaps the most epic descent of the trip, approximately 40 km of great switchbacks! Descending, we follow a smaller country road, passing the Tashi Dzom turnoff, to our scenic camp in Panding village in the backyard of someone’s house. (B, L, D)
Day 15 – Bike Rongbuk Gompa 4995m | Cycle Tibet Everest Base Camp 5150m
Distance: 32.24km Elevation Gain: 729m Elevation Loss: 7m
A great morning ride on a newly paved, relatively flat road through more traditional Tibetan landscapes heading to Rongbuk Monastery, where the staff has set up the highest campsite of the trip at just under 5000 meters, with views of the stunning north face of Everest from camp! We’ll stop at some of the small villages, the most authentic we’ve seen yet on the trip, and perhaps pop our heads into one of the local teahouses.
The road follows the rocky, glacial river, gaining altitude steadily as we cycle towards Rongbuk Gompa. After lunch at camp, it’s a short 3 km ride to Tibet Everest Base Camp, cycling on a graded road for even closer views of the spectacular, massive north face of Everest. Along the way we’ll will pass the ruin of a large nunnery on the left about 1 km outside of Rongbuk Gompa, and just before EBC we will visit the older Rongbuk Gompa to our left, where Milarepa (or Guru Rimpoche) meditated in a cave accessed through a drop vault.
Passing through a parking lot and souvenir stand section where the buses stop, we’ll cycle another 2 minutes to where there is a new monument and a small collection of Tibetan prayer flags (lung ta) at the ‘new’ Everest Base Camp. After hanging our prayer flags and sending out our prayers into the universe, we’ll enjoy the easy cycle back to camp and hopefully incredible sunset colors over the north face of Everest . (B, L, D)
Day 16 – Bike Tingri + Tsamda Camp 4330m | Cross Lamma La 5120m
Distance: 78.23km Elevation Gain: 565m Elevation Loss: 1,207m
An early start for the ride back to the Friendship Highway via the Lamma La (5120m), the first 13 km on the same paved road that we cycled up. This is the second place on the Tibet ride that a mountain bike is preferable, the road up to the Lamma La not being paved. We’ll cycle past marmot and pika on the bumpy road, finally reaching the flat Lamma La.
The downhill is another epic and beautiful one, but a bumpy ride heading down the pass to reach the river below. Just as the road flattens we’ll stop for lunch by the river, and decide how far to cycle from this point. The road continues to be washboard, a challenging riding surface, so perhaps we’ll ride the next beautiful 20 km and then put the bikes into the truck for the last developed section of road reaching Tingri.
Once back on the main highway, we cycle south away from Tingri. Old Tingri, once called Ganggar, was once an atmospheric village which includes about 100 mud-brick houses crowded together below the hillside, very old Tibet in style, and worth a walk around for a glimpse of Tibetan village life. There are some real Tibetan characters roaming the streets doing business; or perhaps passing us on the street in their horse-carts or prayer-flag festooned tractors. The wild west of central Tibet! There is an impressive viewpoint at the remains of an old garrison called Ganggar Ri with views of Everest, Cho Oyu and the Nangpa La route to the Khumbu region of Nepal.
We cycle 11 km bit further south on the good road to our grassy campsite in Tsamda, with old style chortens and a snaking river on the other side of camp, and large flocks of sheep that return to the village at dusk. Sunsets over the Himalaya are sublime! (83 km) (B, L, D)
Day 17 – Tsamda | Rest Day
A rest or catch up day if we need it, and a good day to do laundry, perhaps starting the day with a cycle back the 11 km to Tingri to do some shopping or browsing through the old shops in the village.
Day 18 – Bike Shisha Bridge Camp 4650m
Distance: 70.62km Elevation Gain: 448m Elevation Loss: 149m
Great views of Everest and Cho Oyu as we bike across the Tibetan plateau, passing the ruins of several large forts, which guarded the trade route to Nepal and were destroyed in 18th century wars.
We soon reach our our idyllic camp just below the Lalung La, which leads south towards the traditional Friendship Highway route and Nepal border at Kodari, closed since the 2015 earthquakes. We cycle west towards Pelku Tso (lake) tomorrow, instead of south over the Lalung La. Enjoy the green grass and sparkling stream at camp, and have a walk up the valley to see the nomadic tents. (B, L, D)
Day 19 – Bike Peklu Tso + Talung La Base Camp 4748m
Distance: 77.09km Elevation Gain: 486m Elevation Loss: 403m
Heading west from Lalung La Camp (not crossing the Lalung La, which leads down to Kodari and Nepal), we turn right and cycle towards beautiful, turquoise Pelku Tso (Peiku Tso on many maps) lake, biking past the southern turnoff to Shishapangma Base Camp. We bike past several traditional Tibetan villages, cycling along a mostly flat road, with kiang (wild ass) and blue sheep often roaming the nearby plateau. It’s a great cycle along this massive plateau, the colors of the hillsides varying shades of mossy green with white snow peaks above, and we descend towards the lake, all the time with incredible views of Shishapangma (8013m), the world’s 14th highest peak, directly to the south (left).
Ascending once again from Pelku Tso, we’ll have spectacular views down to the lake before having lunch (with a view) on top of the hill we’ve just cycled up. After lunch, we cycle through a narrow canyon for several kilometers, passing over a ridge marked with prayer flags at about 4900 meters, and then descending to our camp just below tomorrow’s Tsalung La, camping just to the left of the road. (B, L, D)
Day 20 – Bike Dzongka + Kyirong 2810m | Cross Tsalung La 5280m
Distance: 91.10km Elevation Gain: 739m Elevation Loss: 2,668m
We’ve camped just below the Tsalung La, so we start up the well graded switchbacks to the pass first thing in the morning, and enjoy another long descent of over 1000 meters! We have a stunningly beautiful route to ride through southern Tibet to the Langtang (Rasuwa) region of Nepal, following the Kyirong Chu river, which becomes the Trishuli River in Nepal, passing through canyons and ending up in green, forested countryside. Continuing to descent, the landscape changes dramatically, the clouds increase and the scenery is more and more like Nepal, and less like the high plateaus of Tibet.
We’re not allowed to camp anywhere past the Tsalung La pass unfortunately, so we cycle through Dzongka (4130m), the capital of Kyirong County, and continue on past chortens and more villages with planted fields to Kyirong, once a major trading post in Tibet, where we stay in a hotel for the night. The one saving grace of this now completely Chinese town is the Kyirong Monastery just near the hotel. (68 km) (B, L, D)
Day 21 – Bike Nepal Border (Rasuwa Ghadi) 1814m | Drive (or Bike) Dunche 2010m or Nuwakot
Distance: 108.20km
Our last few kilometers of cycling in Tibet, we bike to the border of Nepal at Rasuwa Ghadi to meet our new trucks to take our gear back to Kathmandu. Rasuwa Ghadi is a newly opened border for foreigners, previously used for trade between Nepal and Tibet during the earthquake, and otherwise by Everest expeditions, and local Nepalis and Tibetans. Once at the border, we have a lengthy process at immigration, which we need to reach before 11 am to make the pre-lunch immigration line. We bring our bikes to the opposite side of immigration and cycle a muddy few kilometers past the border to our border contact’s small lodge, where we have lunch while the staff packs up the bikes.
After lunch, we drive south on the new (but small, bumpy and often precipitous) Pasang Lhamo Highway, past Timure and Syabru Besi, to Dhunche, where we stop for the night at a local lodge.
We have the option to continue on to Kathmandu if time permits. Continuing to drive further south to Ramche Bazaar, almost always downhill on a circuitous road, we drive the crowded road to much warmer climates in the Nuwakot district of Nepal, driving south until we meet the Trisuli River at Betrawoti Bazaar and continue to Nuwakot. (25.5 km to border) (B, L)
Alternative Route – Bike Nepal Border (Rasuwa Ghadi) 1814m | Drive Ramche (Langtang) + Nuwakot (The Famous Farm) 650m
Our last few kilometers of cycling in Tibet (approximately 10 km depending on our campsite), we bike to the border of Nepal at Rasuwa Ghadi to meet our new trucks to take our gear back to Kathmandu. Rasuwa Ghadi is a newly opened border for foreigners, previously used for trade between Nepal and Tibet during the earthquake, and otherwise by Everest expeditions, and local Nepalis and Tibetans. We’ll continue to cycle south on the new Pasang Lhamo Highway, past Timure and Syabru Besi, to Dhunche and Ramche Bazaar.
Continuing to cycle further south, almost always downhill on a circuitous road, we cycle to much warmer climates in the Nuwakot district of Nepal. We cycling south until we meet the Trisuli River at Betrawoti Bazaar, about 20 km. Just 6 km uphil from the Trisuli Highway, we’ll cycle up to visit the Nuwakot Fort and spend the night at The Famous Farm, Nuwakot to put it in a good position to get to Kathmandu tomorrow.
UPDATE: We will drive the road from Tibet to Nuwakot as traffic is terrible, the road crowded with cargo trucks headed to and from the Tibet border. We will spend the night at The Famous Farm and cycle to Kathmandu the next day. (10+ km cycle, 66 km drive) (B, L, D)
Nuwakot Durbar
The seven-story Nuwakot Durbar is a historic palace fortress (kot means fort in Nepali) built high above the Trisuli and Tandi rivers, in a strategic position to control ancient trade routes. Nuwakot was the capital of the Kathmandu valley in the days before the unification of Nepal by Privthi Narayan Shah, an important trading center of the Malla kings of that period and a major hub along the ancient trade route between India and Kyirong in Tibet for close to 1000 years. It was later conquered by the Shah Gurkha dynasty in the late 18th century and became the main staging ground of Prithvi Narayan Shah for the conquests of the Malla kingdoms of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhatkapur. Shah expanded the present palace in the 18th century, and the complex includes several Hindu temples including a Bhairab Mandir.
Day 22 – Drive (or Bike) Kathmandu
Distance: 51.84km Elevation Gain: 1,581m Elevation Loss: 1,258m
From the Trisulu or slightly further north from our campsite, we cycle along the winding, hilly Trisuli Highway to the Kakani intersection (52 km), from where we continue on the long downhill cycle back to the Kathmandu Guest House. We’ll head out for dinner and beers to celebrate an incredible cycling trip across Tibet! (75 km) (B, L)
Day 23 – Kathmandu
An extra day in Kathmandu to pack up the bikes, clean up the gear, and relax on the lawn of the Kathmandu Guest House, or do some additional sightseeing if you’d like. We’ll meet again for dinner in the evening. (B)
Day 24 – Trip Ends
Transfer to TIA International Airport for your flight home. We hope you had an incredible trip into the heart of Tibet, the roof of the world, the journey of a lifetime! (B)
Tashi Delek!
Friendship Highway Route
Day 19 – Bike Nyalem 3650m (cross Lalung La 5125m + Shung La 5200m)
Another epic Himalayan cycling day, the ultimate downhill ride! We cycle high on the plateau, where we soon pass the road leading Shishapangma North Base Camp and then on to Kailash and Western Tibet. Lots of inspiring views as we cycle past road that passes Peiko Tso (lake).
Our first challenge of the day is cycling up the high Lalung La (5125m – where’s the oxygen?) and after a short scenic drop with Shishapangma in the foreground we reach the prayer-flag festooned Shung (Tong) La (5200m). Here we stop to admire a Himalayan panorama that includes Shishapangma and Khambachen on the west (right) and a hard to recognize Gauri Shankar (Chomo Tseringma for Tibetans and Sherpas). We are standing on the geographic divide, although the main Himalayan mountain divide is further south. Down, down, down, an epic cruise, into warmer climes to reach our camp which the staff have set up camp near Nyalem. (87 km)
Day 20 – Bike The Last Resort, Nepal
The descent to Zhangmu at 3650m takes a couple of hours of fast and furious downhill. This is one of the most impressive gorge roads in the world, often atmospheric with cloud and waterfalls streaming off the cliffs.
From Zhangmu, it’s a short drive to the Friendship Bridge which spans the Bhote Kosi River and marks the Chinese – Nepalese border. We say goodbye to our Tibetan guide and driver and walk to Nepalese Immigration Control in Kodari where we will be met by our Nepalese jeep and continue to cycle to the Last Resort a few hours further on.
The Last Resort is a wonderful place to spend a night after the rigors of Tibet; let’s see if they can get the sauna started! Beers in the bamboo bar/restaurant afterwards is the perfect way to wind down … (58 km)
Optional Extra Days – Last Resort
Let us know if you would like to book an extra day (or 2 or 3!) in this piece of tropical Nepa! Bungee, canyoning, sauna, hiking anyone?
Day 21 – Bike + Drive Kathmandu
We’re in steamy Nepal, and we cycle through idyllic countryside past terraced fields and traditional villages, always river-side. Eventually we reach the long ascent, past slow trucks, to Dhulikhel on the rim of the Kathmandu Valley. A long-ish ‘city-ride’ brings us finally to the Kathmandu Guest House where cold beers, hot showers and a good dinner out await. (110 km)
Day 22 – Kathmandu
An extra day in Kathmandu to do some more exploring, or to relax in the Kathmandu Guest House garden.
Day 23 – Trip Ends
We send you off to the airport for your flight home. Tashi Delek & Namaste!
Peiko Tso | Lhasa Flight Route
Day 21 – Bike Peiko Tso Camp 4590m
Heading west from Lalung La Camp, we cycle towards beautiful Peiko Tso lake, biking past the southern turnoff to Shishapangma Base Camp and setting up camp near the lake with incredible views of Shishapangma (8013m), the 14th highest mountain in the world.
Day 22 – Drive Sakya 4316m or Shigatse
Back in the jeeps, we begin the scenic drive back to Kathmandu. If all goes as planned we can stop for the night at Sakya Gompa, one of the oldest in Tibet, the turnoff about an hour before Shigatse heading south 25 kilometers off the Friendship Highway.
Sakya Gompa was established in 1268 and is one of Tibet’s largest monasteries, even larger before the Cultural Revolution. The massive, grey monastery of the Sakya sect (the first one) features defensive watchtowers on its four corners, stuffed jackals with barred teeth under the protector deity chapels from the more tantric sect of Buddhism. A white conch shell in the main assembly hall was a gift from Kublai Khan. North of the monastery are the ruins of the Northern Monastery, worth a wander.
Day 23 – Drive Lhasa
Back to Lhasa, with time for a last evening kora of the Barkor Square and Jokhang Temple.
Day 24 – Fly Kathmandu | Transfer Hotel
We board our flight back to Kathmandu, arriving in time for hot showers and a pizza at Roadhouse!
Day 25 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
Transfer to TIA International Airport for your flight home. We hope you had an incredible trip into the heart of Tibet, the roof of the world, the journey of a lifetime!
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.
Namaste!
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Date & Price
Dates
June – July
24(26) Days
+ Arrive 2 Days Early in Kathmandu for Chinese Group Visa
+ Tibet Visa – Not Included in Price
+ Single Supplement Hotels Tibet – $350
+ The Famous Farm Nuwakot Single Upgrade – $85
+ Kathmandu Bike Rental – $25 Per Day
Trip Price
$5680 (8+ Cyclists)
+ $5880 (5-7 Cyclists)
+ $6280 (3-4 Cyclists)
Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225
Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes
Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140
Guides
Western + Sherpa Guides | Kim Bannister + Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa
Tibetan Guide
+ Private Departures with Nepali Bicycling Guide Also Available – Inquire
Includes
- Western + Sherpa Guides | Kim + Lhakpa Sherpa
- Tibet Guide
- Kathmandu-Lhasa Flight
- Tibet Permit
- Tibet Entrance Fees
- Kathmandu Guest House | Breakfast
- Hotels in Tibet | Breakfast
- Transportation by Private Vehicle | Sightseeing + Back Up Jeeps for Bikes
- Staff Truck
- Airport Pick-ups + Drops
- NO Single Supplement for Tents!
- Kamzang Journeys Bicycling Trips
Marmot or North Face dome tents, ‘gourmet’ food with seasonal, fresh produce, French-press coffee, chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, library, ‘lounge’ with colorful Indian rugs, camp chairs, blankets, occasional tent music in evenings, oxygen & PAC bag (when needed), full medical kit, horses, yaks or porters, Western, Sherpa & local guides (when needed), our 5-star Kamzang staff + the signature yellow Kamzang dining tent. NO single supplement for single tents on trek!
Safety & Health Precautions
- Thuraya Satellite Phone (when allowed)
- InReach Satellite Messaging System (Free Texts on Trek) (when allowed)
- Updated Route Published on InReach Site (when allowed)
- Helicopter Evacuation Services (excluding cost of evacuation)
- Support by Khumbu Adventures in Kathmandu + Tibet Kawajian Travel in Lhasa
- Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
- PAC Bag (Portable Oxygen Chamber)
- Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
- Kayadyn Filtered Drinking Water
- Safe, sanitary, delicious & plentiful food + drinks
Excludes
- International Flights (to + from Nepal)
- Bicycle Rental
- Travel Medical + Travel Insurance (both required)
- Chinese Visa (we get for you)
- Nepal Visa
- Helicopter Evacuation
- Lunch + Dinner in Kathmandu
- Lunch + Dinner in Tibet (At Hotels)
- Monastery Donations
- Equipment Rental
- Alcohol, Sodas & Packaged Drinks
- Laundry
- Tips
Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $300 for meals + drinks. We recommend $300 – $350 per person thrown into the tips pool for the crew.
Map
Highlights & Reviews
Trip Advisor Reviews
Client Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments
Kamzang Journeys Menus
Camp Menus
Lonely Planet Tibet
Cycling in Tibet
“Many of Nepal’s established trekking companies also run Tibet bike tours, notably the foreign-run Kamzang Journeys.”
Cycling Trip Highlights
- Cycling the vast, beautiful + diverse high Tibetan Plateau
- Cycling the New Route to Nepal’s Rasuwa Ghadi (Langtang) Border
- Cycling to Tibet Everest Base Camp
- Spectacular Himalayan Panoramas
- Cycling Across 6+ Himalayan PassesLhasa, Shigatse + GyantsePotala Palace, Drepung + Sera Gompas, Jokhang Lhakhang + Barkor Kora
- Tashilumpo Gompa + Shigatse FortGyantse Kumbum + Fortress
- Rangdum Gompa
- Shegar Fort
- Traditional Tibetan Villages + CultureTibetan Buddhist Monasteries
- Yamdrok Tso + Peiko Tso Lakes
- Drinking Salt-Butter Tea with Tibetans
- Cycling from Tibet Through Langtang to Kathmandu!
- Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing
- Kathmandu Guest House + The Famous Farm at Nuwakot
- Idyllic Campsites
- Central Asian Wildlife
- Challenging Cycling – Both On + Off Road
- Lots of Exploration
- Our Kamzang Journeys ‘Boutique’ Campsites!
- Our Kamzang Journeys Wonderful Food!
Clients’ Highlights & Comments
A wonderful bicycle tour of Ladakh & Zanskar, the Indian Himalaya!
Cycle-eat-relax-repeat. I had met Kim Bannister & Lhakpa Dorji previously, but this was my first trip with them as formal leaders. Kim & Lhakpa have all of the logistics for fun and relaxing Ladakh travel completely dialed in. The itinerary was challenging but not overly so, with the flexibility to ride in the support vehicle completely open at any time. Very importantly, our two drivers were 100% calm and safe. Cycling ranged from 4 – 8 hours a day. The team uses cell phones and radios for communications to coordinate camps and timing. Each cyclist also has a personal radio for potential emergency use, but in reality, even though we had some tough days, there were zero emergencies. Camp is set up and struck efficiently by the crew. Snacks and hot and cold drinks await on arrival in the afternoon, with large, comfy personal tents set up in nice locations and your personal gear stashed inside. It has been said an army marches on its stomach, and for any trip of this sort, the food is of paramount importance. Junar and the rest of the crew never failed to impress with tasty, copious and varied food choices, including melons, momos, salads, and a birthday cake!
– David K (USA), Ladakh Sky Kingdoms Ladakh Cycling Journey 2019
Excellent! Most challenging but very good, and everything was well organized, so no complains. I would recommend this trip to anyone who is interested in a bit of cycling adventure!
– Herb B (Australia), The Great Nepal Bicycle Journey 2022
From Lhasa to Kathmandu – Cycling across the Tibetan Plateau!
I can only highly (once more, highly) recommend Kamzang Journeys. Absolutely top notch experience, when it comes to exploring the remote Himalayas, by either hiking or biking. This time, we have cycled across the Tibetan Plateau for about 1000 kms. Stunning. Magnificent. Mesmerizing. Adventurous. And safe. Superb logistics, organization and team (really!). Deep insights into the Tibetan culture from a beautiful soul who has been living the Himalayan spirit for nearly 20 years. Kamzang Journeys will make your experience an unforgettable memory. Kim & Lhakpa are knowledgeable (this is an understatement), are passionate about the region, its people and their culture & traditions. Food is truly beyond expectations, camp sites always stunning & relaxing, and Kim & her Team will go the extra mile to secure your safety. Full disclosure: over the past 11 years or so, I have repeatedly returned to Kamzang Journeys for the joy of experiencing the Himalayan region, with authenticity & simplicity, as most of their customers do. (and this is a testimony of the quality & the love of their ‘services’). Kamzang Journeys: you rock!
– Laurence V (France), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018
Lhasa to Kathmandu Bicycle Trip. A difficult trip to organize went wonderfully with Kamzang Journeys. Fantastic food. Great people. Don’t know how it could have been better!
– Grant E (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018
The experience I had when I cycled with Kamzang Journeys was incredible. The team, as well as the guides, were fantastic and extremely helpful. Kim made you feel very safe and comfortable and had great knowledge, and the sights, characters and the culture were a dream. Definitely worth it and I will definitely go again.
– Nita B (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018
The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip!
When I first searched online for a Nepal trekking guide in 2006, I found Kim Bannister. I was most impressed by the fact that the person leading my trek was the one answering my emails and that she evidenced a commitment to an environmental ethic and to treating her staff (and, when relevant, the pack animals) with respect and fairness. Not one other company mentioned any kind of valued ethic, let alone provided a personal response. Back then I was inquiring about a trek to the Everest Region, a bucket list dream of mine. Though I have since made that journey with Kim, I did not go in 2006, because Kim provided the honest insight that summer was not a good time to go to the that region due to the monsoon and suggested Ladakh instead.
Though I was sure Everest was the only place I wanted to go, I jumped at the alternative adventure, already trusting Kim’s expertise and knowing that I was to be led by a capable, reasoned guide. I have since trekked with Kim to Dolpo, Everest High Passes, and just returned from the cycling trek with Kim from Lhasa to Kathmandu. In 2007 Kim also set up a Tibet jeep trip for me and has connected me to contacts in India. I trust Kim implicitly. Every place one might travel in the entire Himalayan region — Nepal, India, China, Bhutan — is, by its nature, wildly unpredictable, from the weather, to closed borders, cancelled flights, lost luggage, runaway animals, altitude sickness, and beyond. Kim manages such fluidness with impressive agility, resource, and calm. We have shared quite a few wonderful stories, laughs, amazing food, and our share of beer over these adventures. As myself an experienced outdoor educator and leader, risk management consultant, and now attorney, my 2006 bet with Kim has paid off exquisitely. Stop looking now — you have found the best.
– Anne M (USA), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018
I reckon this was the most amazing trip I’ve been on with you. Clearly with all the major changes & glitches it had to be organised on the run at times so it was a tribute to you all that when problems arose you were able to work around them – the road accident in the valley, the Last Resort, your being ill, the long night drive, Tholing, Darchen, the weather etc. I haven’t done 4 trips with you because I want this type of trip!
– Graham N (Australia), Kailash, Guge & Limi Humla Trek 2011
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Articles & Videos on Tibet
David Koelle | YouTube Video | Kamzang Journeys | The Ladakh Great Himalayan Bicycle Trip
Everesting | Cycling Tips YouTube
50 Years After the Raid into Tibet | Nepali Times
The Lost World of Tibet | BBC
Pico Iyer Tibet | BBC Travel
China Fences in its Nomads & an Ancient Life Withers | New York Times
The Last Dalai Lama? | New York Times
The Extraordinary Life of Alexandra David-Neel
Alexandra David-Neel | Adventure Journal
A Tibetan’s Journey for Justice | New York Times
As the Dalai Lama Turns 80, Tibet Still Suffers | Wall Street Journal
Tibetan Fight to Salvage Fading Culture in China | New York Times
A Showcase of Tibetan Culture Serves Chinese Political Goals | New York Times
Raid into Tibet | The Record Nepal
Raid into Tibet Video | Tashi Phuntsok FB
Tibet Never Before Seen Footage | TIME
The World Has a Third Pole & It’s Melting Quickly | The Guardian
Dancing Below the Potala Palace | Lhasa, Tibet | Kim Bannister YouTube
Jokhang Prostrations | Lhasa, Tibet | Kim Bannister YouTube
Barkor Kora | Lhasa, Tibet | Kim Bannister YouTube
Asian Corridor in Heaven Documentaries
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 1) or (Part 1) | The Last Horse Caravan (no subtitles)
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 2) | Road to Pilgrimage
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 3) | Tea Makes the Road Open
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 4) | The Salt in Yanjing
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 5) | Himalayan Salt Trek
Asian Corridor in Heaven (Part 6) | Guge Mystery of the Lost Kingdom
Contact & Details
Guides
Kim & Lhakpa
Tibetan Guide
Kamzang Journeys Contact
Kim Bannister
kim@kamzang.com
kamzangkim@gmail.com
Mobile: +(977) 9803414745 (WhatsApp), 9863196743
WhatsApp: +(977) 9803414745 (WhatsApp)
Kathmandu Contact
Khumbu Adventures
hiking.guide@gmail.com
Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841235461, 9705235461
Doma Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841510833, 9705510833
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa Mobile: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)
Tibet Email Notes
Give kim@kamzang.com as contact information for Kim Tibet as Gmail + Google is almost always blocked by the Chinese Government (as is Facebook). Give hiking.guide@yahoo.com as additional contact information for Lhakpa in Tibet. Doma + Nuru are answering hiking.guide@gmail.com in Nepal.
Tibet Satellite Phone & Communications
Satellite phones are not allowed in Tibet. Mobile numbers work throughout most of Tibet, however. Gmail, FaceBook WhatsApp and other apps and sites are generally blocked unless you have a VPN installed on your phone or computer.
Garmin InReach
Update coming before trek regarding whether or not our Garmin devices are allowed in Tibet.
Garmin InReach | Unlimited On-Trek Text Messages + Route Map
We have a Garmin MapShare page and a Garmin InReach satellite messaging device for sending and receiving messages on the treks guided by Kim + Lhakpa. Give the link to people who want to follow or communicate with us and have them send a message. The ‘message’ button is on the top left of the email link that they receive; the sender needs to input an EMAIL address (instead of mobile number) to get a response. You can email them back directly during the trek (the device is linked to my mobile) as much as you’d like. Messages are free, enjoy!
Follow Us on Facebook
Only if I am able to connect to FaceBook in Tibet with a VPN!
Kamzang Journeys Facebook
I will post InReach updates to our Kamzang Journeys Facebook page if friends & family want to follow our progress.
Kathmandu Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House
Nepal & Chinese Visas
Make sure you have a multiple-entry visa for re-entering Nepal from Tibet. We will submit your passport for the Chinese visa once you arrive in Kathmandu, and we also get the group permit for Tibet.
Nepal Tourist Visas
You can get your Nepal visa at TIA International Airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home at a Nepali Embassy or Consulate. When you arrive at immigration in Kathmandu, scan your passport at the visa machines (no photo needed) or produce your online, printed visa-on-arrival form, pay the visa fee, and go to the appropriate immigration line. Make sure you get a MULTIPLE ENTRY visa for Nepal.
15 Days – $30
30 Days – $50
90 Days – $125
Tourist Visa Extension (15 days) – $45 (+$3 Additional Day))
Nepal Visa
Nepal Visa Information
Kathmandu Guest House
Ward: 16, Street name: Saatghumti, Area: Thamel, District: Bagmati, City: Kathmandu, Zone: Bagmati, Phone: +977 14700004
Chinese Visa Requirements
No RUSH Chinese visas from Kathmandu. We need 3 WORKING DAYS to issue Chinese visas, so you’ll need to arrive early in Kathmandu for a trip to Tibet! Tourist visas are generally $140 for Americans, $100 for Canadians and $40 for other nationalities.
1 – Valid Passport (6 Months+)
2 – Clear Passport Copy
3 – Color Photo (See Requirements)
4 – Visa Filled Out by Client. No Eraser (We supply this form for you to fill out in Kathmandu)
Hotels, Meals + Transport in Tibet
Hotels are generally 3-4 star or heritage hotels, though in more basic towns they will be the best available accommodation. Breakfasts at the hotels are included in the trip, other meals are not included though we will often go out to eat together. You are free to do your own thing if you prefer. Transport will be by private vehicle, either a good quality and new Landcruiser type of SUV or a mini-bus.
Travel Medical Insurance
Required for your own safety. We carry a copy of your insurance with all contact, personal and policy information with us on the trek and our office in Kathmandu keeps a copy. Note that we almost always trek over 4000 meters (13,000′) and that we don’t do any technical climbing with ropes, ice axes or crampons.
Global Rescue Rescue Services
We recommend (but don’t require) that our trekkers sign up for Global Rescue services as a supplement to your travel medical insurance. You can book this directly through our Kamzang Journeys site. It’s trickier to get helicoptoer rescue in in Tibet, and Global Rescue had the best connections to provide a rescue if needed.
Global Rescue
Medical On-Trek
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs and other essentials. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please do have a full check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety.
DO bring all prescription medications and rehydration powders-electrolytes. We advise bringing your own Diamox, Ciprofloxin, Azithromycin + Augmentin. We do have all of these with us, but the Western versions are generallly more reliable than the Indian equivalents. See Gear List for a full list of recommended medications for the trek.
PAC Bag & Oxygen On-Trek
We carry a Portable Oxygen Chamber (Gamow Bag) with us on many treks, and oxygen with us on all treks. There is no charge for use of the PAC Bag, but the oxygen cost is $300 per canister (which you can pass on to your insurance company).
Health Information
CDC Nepal
CDC Tibet
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Notes on Itinerary
Although we try to follow our trek itinerary, it is ONLY a guideline based on years of experience trekking in many Himalayan regions. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group’s acclimatization rate or sickness, or improved campsites and lodges.
The Himalaya are our passion, and we take our trekking and cycling trips seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure …
Note on Traveling in Tibet
NOTE ON TRAVELLING IN TIBET
‘Tibetans employ a lunar calendar, which would in theory assign to each month 29½ days. Since the solar year is 365¼ days, each lunar year (12 lunar months) is 11 days too short. To make up for this, every three years an additional month is added. However, like wild cards in a poker game, the extra month can be added anywhere in the Tibetan calendar year, the position being determined by an astrological forecast indicating what would be the lucky place to add the new month. Actually, even this is a slight oversimplification. In practice Tibetans round off the lunar month to exactly 30 days, but then they go ahead and add the extra month every 3 years anyway. To make up the difference, certain days of the month – again decided by the official astrologers – are simply eliminated, or, if some days are thought to be particularly fortunate, they may be doubled. At the end of each year the official astrologer presents the calendar for the following year. Until then, there is no future calendar. The new year begins in February, except in those years that begin following an added month, when the year begins in March. Hence when modern historical writers on Tibet indicate that some even occurred, say in April of 619 AD it gives one pause for thought.
The 7 days of the Tibetan week are named after the sun, the moon, and the five visible planets; Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, and Saturn. Sa is the Tibetan word for ‘planet’ and the 7 days are then names: Sa Nyi-ma [Sunday – Sun], Sa Da-wa [Monday – Moon], Sa Mik-mar [Tuesday – Mars], Sa Lak-pa [Wednesday – Mercury], Sa Pur-bu [Thursday – Jupiter], Sa Pa-sang [Friday – Venus] and Sa Pen-pa [Saturday – Saturn]. Until the 11th century, a 12-year calendar cycle was used; each year being named after one of the following animals: mouse, ox, tiger, hare, dragon, serpent, horse, sheep, ape, bird, dog, and hog. In the year 1027 AD – one hopes the historian have made the correct conversion – the Tibetans began a 60-year cycle as advocated in the Kalacakra-Tantra, a Sanskrit religious text that was translated into Tibetan that year. To make up the sixty-year cycle, the twelve animals are combined with five elements: wood, fire, earth, iron, and water. Thus the years have colorful names like Fire-Mouse or Iron-Ape. Tibetan historical documents contain phrases like “On the thirteenth day of the 8th month of the Water-Tiger year . . .’
– ‘In the Himalayas’ – Jeremy Bernstein (1989), pp 228-229
Arrival Kathmandu
Arrival in Kathmandu
You will be met at the airport by the Kathmandu Guest House representative. Look for a sign with your name on it as well as the Kathmandu Guest House sign. You will be transferred to the Kathmandu Guest House where your rooms have been pre-booked. Kim will meet you at the Kathmandu Guest House to go over details and get you settled into Kathmandu life … Please hydrate!
If you arrive early and Kim can’t meet you just then, a meeting will be arranged via email. Kim’s mobile (+WhatsApp) number: +977 9803414745 (WhatsApp). Skype is Kim Bannister. Call or text if there is any problem with your flight or pick-up, please!
Nepal Tourist Visas
You can get your Nepal visa at TIA International Airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home at a Nepali Embassy or Consulate. When you arrive at immigration in Kathmandu, scan your passport at the visa machines (no photo needed) or produce your online, printed visa-on-arrival form, pay the visa fee, and go to the appropriate immigration line.
15 Days – $30
30 Days – $50
90 Days – $125
Tourist Visa Extension (15 days) – $45 (+$3 Additional Day))
Nepal Visa
Nepal Visa Information
Kathmandu Guest House
Ward: 16, Street name: Saatghumti, Area: Thamel, District: Bagmati, City: Kathmandu, Zone: Bagmati, Phone: +977 14700004
Chinese Visa Requirements
+ No RUSH Chinese Visas from Kathmandu. We need 3 WORKING DAYS to issue Chinese Visa!
1 – Valid Passport (6 months+)
2 – Clear Passport Copy
3 – Color Photo (See Requirements)
4 – Visa filled out by client. No eraser. We supply this form for you to fill out.
Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House
International Medical Center Kathmandu
CIWEC
Nepal Temperatures + Clothing
See Gear tab for trekking and cycling clothing, as well as medical supplies recommendations.
Kathmandu during the spring and autumn trekking seasons is usually quite warm (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirts) during the day, and gets chilly (light fleece or jacket) in the late afternoon and evenings. Nights can be cold enough for a sweater and/or jacket, or warm enough for t-shirts. Summer is hotter and wetter, and you’ll need a rain jacket and umbrella. The winter months (late Nov – March) are chilly in the mornings and evenings, cold enough that you might start the day in a down jacket, but often warming up enough to wear a t-shirt by mid-day. Nights get cold enough for a down jacket if you’re sitting outside, although many restaurants have heaters or fire pits. It never snows in Kathmandu. Keens, Chacos or other hiking sandals are great for wandering around Kathmandu, and for trekking in lower altitudes. Crocs are good to have for rooms, showers and at camp when trekking or cycling.
Trekking is a mixed bag of temperatures. LAYERS are the key as hot can change quickly to freezing crossing the passes and snowfalls are common. We often have some rain below 3000 meters in the spring and early autumn, and it can rain hard in the summer. Have a wide range of layer-able trekking clothes for summer to winter temperatures. Keep a lightweight down jacket or synthetic jacket with you at all times, available inexpensively in Kathmandu. A lightweight rain poncho and umbrella for trekking rare ecommended in the spring and summer seasons. Be prepared! See our ‘Gear’ tab for full details on gear, shoes, clothing, electronics and meds for the trek.
There are lots of real gear shops (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Sherpa Gear, OR) and many ‘fake’ and Nepali-made shops in Kathmandu, so if you don’t think you have the right gear starting the trip, it is easy to pick up gear once in Kathmandu. We have sleeping bags to rent, duffel bags, camp towels and buffs to purchase, and you’ll get a FREE Kamzang Journeys t-shirt for the trip!
Dress conservatively in Kathmandu and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are okay if they aren’t too short, short mini skirts aren’t recommended. Sleeveless t-shirts are absolutely fine, but perhaps avoid skimpy tank tops on the trail. Super tight lycra and very skimpy doesn’t go over so well with village elders or remote villagers, and will generally limit your ability to have meaningful interactions with Nepali villagers. Many of the younger generation in Nepal wear modern Indian or Western-influenced clothes but remember that you haven’t signed up for a beach or surf vacation. Use your good judgment, and be an ambassador for western travelers! Please ask Kim or your guide if unsure about appropriate clothing, we’re always happy to advise.
Nepal Cultural Issues
Nepalis are very open and welcoming, but there are a few issues you should be aware of to make your stay in Nepal more fulfilling. Use your right hand to pass things, shake hands or do most anything. Left hands are somewhat taboo. Nepalis often place their left hand on the right forearm when passing things to others, a sign of respect. Best not to pat kids on heads, or point feet ahead of you at monasteries. Don’t walk over someone’s legs or feet, but put your hand down in front of you to signal them to pull their legs to the side. Take off shoes and hats when going into Buddhist monasteries and Hindu temples, don’t use flashes inside monasteries or temples if possible and be respectful when attending pujas (prayer ceremonies). You can talk and move around, all religious are very tolerant, but be aware of your level of voice and where you are walking. Don’t sit on Buddhist monastery benches, they are used as tables. You will often be shown to low, carpeted sitting areas in the back of a monastery. If you’re served tea, it’s fine to accept (in fact, the servers will be happy to give you tea), but also fine to say ‘no thank you’, putting your hand up. If you don’t want more tea, often the salt-butter variety, simply cover your cup with your hand.
Nepalis don’t anger quickly in general, so try not to raise your voice if exasperated or angry as it only will make the situation worse. Do bargain at shops, with taxis and rickshaws, but don’t fleece people as many people are quite poor and need to make a living. Give small donations on the streets if you choose to, but try not to encourage begging and be aware of who you are giving your money to. If you do want to donate to a good cause, ask about our Kamzang Fund or other responsible organizations.
Tibet Cultural Issues, Temperatures + Clothing
Tibet is generally in the rainshadow of the monsoon, but Lhasa and Central Tibet (including Kharta Valley) still get quite a bit of precipitation in the summer months. Be prepared with layers and appropriate gear for rain, heat and colder temperatures both in Lhasa, Central Tibet and on a trek or cycling trip. Mornings and evenings-nights on treks and cycle trips, when at higher altitudes, can still reach freezing temperatures so travel with good down jackets and sleeping bags. Otherwise, gear is similar to Nepali Himalayan treks, and ditto for street clothes.
Tibetans are more conservative than Chinese in general, and you’ll see Chinese women dressed in some serious slinky ‘fashion’ in the cities of Tibet and China. Tibetans are quite liberal in general, and of course, the younger generation is liberal in terms of clothing, especially with the Chinese influence. Older Tibetans still dress traditionally and conservatively. You’ll have a richer experience in Tibet if you dress a bit conservatively! The same rules about being thoughtful and conservative in monasteries, villages and in the countryside apply in Tibet. Pass mani walls and chortens on the right, do koras of Buddhist monasteries clockwise, and the opposite for Bon monasteries and chortens. Take shoes and hats off (generally) when entering a monastery. Photography fees are often charged in monasteries if photos are allowed.
Tips for Staff
We recommend $300-$350 per person to go into the tip pool for the staff, which can be given to Kim in Kathmandu in $US. We also pitch in to buy our incredible staff drinks on the last night, or any other night that you feel like treating them to a bottle of Kukure Rum or a few beers!
Tips in General
Tips are always appreciated but they don’t need to be extravagant. 100-300 NRP to carry bags to/from your room is fine, the women who clean your room will be happy with 200-300 NRP when you leave, and 300-500 NRP is great for your airport transfers. Round-up taxi fares, in general. A larger tip would be expected for a day trip in a private car, perhaps 500 NRP, and a tour guide might get 500-100 NRP. 10% is included in most restaurant and hotel bills in Nepal, and if it’s not included it’s still expected. You can round-up the restaurant bills as well. In Tibet, there is not as much tipping but it’s still appreciated and often expected at tourist restaurants …
Cash, Credit Cards & ATMs
ATMs are available all over Kathmandu, and give up to 25,000 NRP per transaction, in general. You can also change money at the hotel counter (a good rate usually) or just outside the hotel at any of the money changers. They’re quite competitive. You’ll want cash in NRP with you on the trek for local shopping, drinks, beers, snacks, beer, laundry and charging electronics. There are usually local crafts and textiles to buy along the way as well! Credit cards are accepted at hotels, most larger restaurants and cafes, and most of the larger gear, craft and pashmina shops in Kathmandu.
There are ATMs all over Tibet as well, and we’ll make stops at the Bank of China to change money.
Pampering Yourself & Shopping in Kathmandu
We’re happy to book your rooms before or after the trek at boutique and luxury hotels, resorts and spas in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley. We’re happy to help with advice on where to purchase the most authentic crafts, pashmina or other hand-made Nepali products in Kathmandu. We sell local handicrafts at our Cafe Caravan at Boudha, as well as delicious cakes, coffees, meals and snacks.
Shopping & Sightseeing in Tibet
See the Tibet tab for many suggestions and advice on all sorts of shopping and sightseeing!
Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Prints & Paintings
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, and more recently the artist Tenzing Samdup also sells his Dolpo prints at the cafe. We also have an extensive selection of ‘caravan’ handicrafts, coffees, teas, t-shirts, ceramic mugs and Himalayan books for sale …
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Journeys duffel bags, Kamzang Journeys t-shirts, Kamzang Journeys camp towels, Kamzang Journeys buffs, handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes and bags, handcrafted Himalayan textile pillow covers and more unique, handcrafted tribal silver and Himalayan textiles available from Kim here in Kathmandu.
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing & Tours
See our Kathmandu Tours tab for lots of idea of how to experience the real Nepal.
Kathmandu & Kathmandu Valley Information
Our ‘Insider’ list of things to do, places to go, what to visit, the most happening restaurants and the best hotels in Kathmandu and the beautiful Kathmandu Valley.
Happenings in Kathmandu
Great Stays
See our ‘Great Stays’ tab for our picks of some of the best heritage, boutique or interesting hotels, guest houses, and lodges in the Kathmandu Valley and elsewhere in Nepal.
Gear
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Journeys duffel bags, t-shirts, camp towels and buffs. Handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes and bags, unique Himalayan textile pillow covers, cashmere stoles and more!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Gear List
A guideline, not a bible, for the gear you will (probably) need on the trek. Do ask (or send gear links) if you have questions! Everyone has their own method of gearing-ups for the mountain, so although these suggestions are based on 20+ years in the Himalayan regions, they may not be exactly what you bring on a trek. Layers are essential for trekking, and quality is more important than quantity. It’s worth investing in some new, warm, lightweight trekking gear! Kim will check your gear before the trek, if needed.
One duffel bag per person. The airline regulations in Nepal (not applicable to India) allow 15 kg per person for mountain flights (including your daypack). We find ways to adjust, but be aware of this limitation and try to limit your duffel bag and daypack to 20 kg (50 lbs) total. 20 kg (50 lbs) is also the weight limit for our treks, although we’re a bit flexible.
- Duffel Bag
- Day Pack (30-40 L)
- Sleeping Bag (-20 to 0F/-30C to -20 Recommended)
- Air Mattress
- Trekking Boots, Trekking Shoes &/or Running Shoes
- Hiking Sandals, Water or Running Shoes (REQUIRED for River Crossings. Inquire for Your Trek)
- Crocs (Evenings & Washing)
- Down Jacket(s) &/or Vests (Can be Lightweight Down Jackets. Layering Recommended)
- Wind/Rain Jacket & Pants (Inquire for Your Trek)
- Trekking Pants (2-3)
- T-Shirts (3-4)
- Long-Sleeve Shirts (3-4)
- Technical Jacket (Depending on Other Jackets)
- Thermal Top & Bottom
- Thermal (Lightweight) Top & Bottom
- Evening Thermal Top & Bottom (Synthetic &/or Down Pants Optional)
- Socks (5-6)
- Down Booties (Optional, Recommended)
- Gloves (Lighter Pair & Heavier Pair for Passes)
- Thermal Hat
- Baseball Cap &/or Wide-Brimmed Hat
- Camp Towel
- Inflatable Camp Pillow (Optional)
- Trekking Poles (Recommended &/or Required. Inquire for Your Trek)
- Sunglasses (Extra Recommended)
- Reading Glasses (Extra Recommended)
- Head Lamp (Extra Recommended)
- Water Bottles | Nalgenes (2-3)
- Water Bladder (Optional, Recommended)
- Travel Umbrella (Optional, Recommended)
- Watch (or Alarm)
- Battery Chargers & Extra Batteries
- USB Adapter with Multiple Ports (Recommended)
- Camera or Smart Phone (Optional)
- Small Water Filter, SteriPen +/or Squeeze Filter Bottle Umbrella (Optional, Recommended)
- Camp Washing Bowl (Optional, Collapsible for Clothes)
- Laundry Detergent or Bio-degradable Clothes Soap
- Small Solar Panel (Optional, Recommended for iPods, Phones, Camera Batteries, e-Readers – We Often Have Solar Charging Capacity)
- Book(s) or Kindle &/or Audiobooks
- Zip-Lock | Plastic Bags
- Soft Toilet Paper | Tissues (Optional)
- Toiletries
- SPF Sunscreen & Lip Balm
- Personal Medical Supplies
- Hand Sanitizers (Small)
- Reusable Wipes (Recommended, Not Single Use)
- Rehydration | Electrolytes (Required)
- Snacks (Required)
Dining Tent Note
We have a ‘dress code’ for the evenings in the tent, which essentially means you’ll be changing out of your trekking clothes and into clean, warm evening clothes (which works well for getting into your sleeping bag after dinner). This is to keep the dining tent as clean as possible, as we eat and sit on the ground in Crazy Creek (style) camp chairs …
Suggested Medical Supplies
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs etc. but please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety!
SUGGESTED MEDS | Dexamethasone, Nifedipine & Diamox (altitude), Azithromycin, Ciprofloxacin & Augmentin (antibiotics), blister bandages, Tegaderm &/or bandages, knee & ankle supports/braces (if required), ACE bandage for sprains & strains, cough drops.
Bring whatever pain meds you generally use (Ibuprofen, Paracetamol/Tylenol, Diclofenac), meds for diarrhea (Loperamide/Imodium) and nausea (Ondansetron), antihistamines (non-drowsy & Benadryl is good for a drowsy antihistamine that might help with sleep), as well as any medications that you take regularly or that your doctor prescribes. We recommend picking up a combination Salmeterol & Fluticasone inhaler locally, good for (from a doctor trekking friend) “high altitude cough due to reactive airways, which is kind of like temporary asthma. The ingredients in the inhaler relax the bronchial passages and calm inflammation in the airways.”Stay away from sleeping medications, drugs in the codeine-opiate-narcotic family and other drugs that suppress your breathing (not a good at altitude). And don’t forget electrolytes! Have some with you in your pack (as well as snacks) daily …
We’re happy to take excess medical supplies off your hands when you leave if you won’t need them. We use lots of the large amount we have with us to treat locals, our staff and our trekkers…
Kim’s Gear Suggestions
I generally wear a trekking t-shirt, trekking pants, a mid-weight long-sleeve shirt, a lightweight synthetic jacket (sometimes paired with a vest), often starting the morning in a lightweight pair of long underwear. I carry a lightweight wind-rain jacket and pants, an extra pair of socks, gloves, a baseball cap and hat in my daypack, and on colder days also have a lightweight down jacket with me.
I use a 35 L Osprey daypack with a bladder, and an extra Nalgene to refill water on the trail, and often use trekking poles. I generally trek in running shoes, although I use boots on very cold days and over passes, and sometimes on hot days I also trek in Keen or Chaco sandalas. I often carry Crocs with me in case of river crossings and to give my feet a break at lunch (Tevas, Chacos and Keen sandals take a long time to dry and are relatively heavy), and I carry micro-spikes on pass days. I always have snacks, electrolytes, my camera or iPhone, sunscreen, hand sanitizer and some toilet paper, a small medical kit and a SteriPen.
Good trekking boots or running shoes that you’ve hiked in before the trek are essential. You don’t ever need climbing or plastic boots (for mini-crampons or micro-spikes). Trekking poles are not required but strongly recommended, especially for going down passes which are often steep and icy, and for treks with river crossings and rocky trails. Bring gators if you tend to use them but they’re not required if you don’t own a pair. Micro-spikes (mini-crampons) or YakTrax are useful (or essential) for pass crossings (inquire before the trek). We have an ice ax and rope with us during some treks for pass crossing days, for extra safety.
Good, polarized sunglasses are essential. Do bring an extra pair in case you lose or break them. Don’t forget a sun hat and/or a baseball cap, perhaps an extra headlamp, and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF! Don’t get caught with blistered lips that don’t heal at altitude!
Nights are chilly to very cold, so a down jacket(s) and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. We recommend a down sleeping bag of -10 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C). Mine is -20 F. At lower altitudes I open it and sleep under it like a quilt, and up higher am toasty warm during cold nights. NOTE sleeping bag ratings don’t correspond to how warm they need to be at altitude. Campsites at higher altitudes can be freezing at night and in the morning. The dining tent is a Tibetan style ‘yurt’ with cotton rugs (dhurries), tables and camp chairs on the ground. It warms up in the evenings when everyone is inside having soup, but it is still important to have warm clothes for the evenings. I change into thermals for the evening at camp and to sleep in when we get to camp; stretchy yoga pants over thermal underwear, light down vest and/or jacket over thermal layers. I love my down (or synthetic) booties at night in the tent! We have blankets for everyone if needed, and we even have a small propane heater on some treks …
Bring XL plastic bags or stuff sacks in your daypack in case of rain. The weather is changeable in the Himalaya, so we recommend that everyone has a strong, waterproof duffel bag for the trek. We supply covers that go over the duffel bags to protect them from rain, dirt + rips.
Day Pack
We recommend a 30-45 liter day pack. Better to have it too large than too small as on pass days you’ll need to carry more warm gear, and you can always cinch daypacks down. Many packs come with internal water bladders, or you can purchase them separately; very good for ensuring that you stay hydrated. Make sure your pack fits comfortably when loaded before bringing it trekking!!
In your day pack, you’ll carry your camera or phone, approx 2 liters of water, a jacket, lightweight wind and/or rain pants (often), a thermal hat, a baseball cap or sun hat, a buff (optional, but great to have on dusty trails), gloves, sunscreen, snacks, electrolytes, maybe something to purify water, hand sanitizer, a small bit of medical supplies, a pack-cover and often a lightweight down jacket. I slip my Crocs in for lunchtime stops or unexpected river crossings, and almost always carry a lightweight down jacket!
Tents
Everyone gets their own North Face style dome tent (3-person, large) without paying a single supplement. Couples share the same sized tent.
Drinking Water
We bring KATADYN (or equivalent) expedition-sized water filters along on the trek for fresh drinking water, ecologically the best way to get water in the Himalaya’s fragile trekking regions. Bring your own SteriPen or Sawyer squeeze filter for a back-up filtered water system during the day if you already have one. We bring ours as well, so this is optional. Please bring at least 2 Nalgene or other water bottles in addition to your water bladder.
WATER NOTE | We do not provide boiled water for filling water bottles on our camping treks although there is endless hot water for herbal, black or green teas, hot chocolate, hot lemon as well as delicious Indian chai and Kashmiri tea.
Snacks
You will NEED snacks hiking at altitude, even if you’re not a big snacker. Bring your favorite energy bars, gels, chocolate bars, dried fruit and nuts, jerky or whatever else gives you quick energy. Emergen-C and/or other electrolyte mixes are important in water bottles or before or after the trekking day; it is ESSENTIAL to bring electrolytes with you in your day packs in case you cramp up, get diarrhea or otherwise need them.
You might want to bring something to share in the dining tent. Any sort of cheese (especially from your hometown) is great as a treat on a cheese board before dinner, and something sweet is always appreciated!
Rentals
We have (approximately) 0F super-down sleeping bags to rent for $2.50 per day on our Nepal & Tibet treks. You might want a warmer sleeping bag (I use a -20F); if so, please do bring your own, as we want you to be warm while sleeping at night!
Packing & Extra Gear Storage
It’s easy to pack and unpack from a duffel bag, especially when the temperature drops. It’s a good idea to invest in a strong, waterproof duffel such as a North Face or one of our Kamzang Journeys duffels. You can store extra gear and computers at the hotel while we’re trekking.
Shopping & Snacks in Nepal (& Tibet)
Almost all gear is now available in Kathmandu, from real (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Sherpa Gear, Marmot or at some shops in Thamel) to inexpensive knock-offs or good Nepali brands. The real gear shops take credit cards. There are many camera and mobile shops, and you can pick up good quality chocolate, snack bars (including gluten free, organic and vegan) and lots of other varieties dried fruits, nuts and snacks in Kathmandu. And, of course, you can shop for pashminas (or cashmere, or fakes, please ask if unsure), good quality silver, handicrafts and locally produced specialty products. We also have a large variety of good quality, unique handicrafts at Café Caravan in Boudhanath.
Our trips to Tibet always start in Kathmandu, so the above advice applies, and you can also pick up interesting Chinese snacks and dried fruits in all of the markets in Lhasa.
Shopping & Snacks in India
You can pick up some trekking gear in Leh, such as trekking poles, sleeping bags (about 0F), lightweight down jackets, duffel bags, some good Western and Chinese or Asian gear, but not shoes or boots. Top up your gear in Leh if you need to, but best not to rely on doing major shopping here although the second hand markets can be a treasure chest of trekking and cycling gear! There is a large variety of good quality dried fruit and nuts available in Leh at the outdoor markets and indoor supermarkets, and you can also pick up good chocolates, snack bars, dried fruit, nuts and seeds, and herbal teas in Leh at Chospa Supermarket.
Lhasa
LHASA MONASTERIES & SIGHTS
JOKHANG TEMPLE & BARKHOR SQUARE
The holiest gompa (temple) in Tibet, revered by Tibetans of all sects though officially Gelugpa, shelters the sacred Jowo Sakyamuni statue and was recently partially destroyed by a massive fire (2018), though rebuilt. Jokhang’s architectural style is a mixture of Indian vihara, Tibetan and Nepalese design. Shuffle among the pilgrims, butter lamps permeating the air, and find gruesome Gods in hidden annexes. There is always a procession of devout Tibetans through the complex. After walking the holy inner circle, complete a circuit (kora) of the Barkhor, the market surrounding the Jokhang, for good karma. It is the best market to shop for all things Tibetan, and just about anything else you ever wanted.
“The Jokhang was founded during the reign of King Songtsen Gampo. According to tradition, the temple was built for the king’s two brides: Princess Wencheng of the Chinese Tang dynasty and Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal. Both are said to have brought important Buddhist statues and images from China and Nepal to Tibet, which were housed here, as part of their dowries. The oldest part of the temple was built in 652. Over the next 900 years, the temple was enlarged several times with the last renovation done in 1610 by the Fifth Dalai Lama. Following the death of Gampo, the image in Ramcho Lake temple was moved to the Jokhang temple for security reasons. When King Tresang Detsen ruled from 755 to 797, the Buddha image of the Jokhang temple was hidden, as the king’s minister was hostile to the spread of Buddhism in Tibet. During the late ninth and early tenth centuries, the Jokhang and Ramoche temples were said to have been used as stables. In 1049 Atisha, a renowned teacher of Buddhism from Bengal taught in Jokhang.
Around the 14th century, the temple was associated with the Vajrasana in India. In the 18th century the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing dynasty, following the Gorkha-Tibetan war in 1792, did not allow the Nepalese to visit this temple and it became an exclusive place of worship for the Tibetans. During the Chinese development of Lhasa, the Barkhor Square in front of the temple was encroached. During the Cultural Revolution, Red Guards attacked the Jokhang temple in 1966 and for a decade there was no worship. Renovation of the Jokhang took place from 1972 to 1980. In 2000, the Jokhang became a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an extension of the Potala Palace (a World Heritage Site since 1994). Many Nepalese artists have worked on the temple’s design and construction.” – Wikipedia
DREPUNG, NECHUNG & SERA GOMPAS
Sera is one of the best preserved monasteries in Tibet, renown for its lively debating sessions in the courtyard each afternoon. Within its whitewashed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study. Drepung was founded in the 14th century and was once the largest gompa in the world with a population of around 10,000 monks. These days the figure has been reduced to several hundred, but there is still much of interest to see here, as the structure escaped relatively unscathed during the Cultural Revolution. Just below Drepung is the tantric monastery of Nechung, referred to as ‘ the Demon Fortress of the Oracle King’. This interesting monastery was the seat of the State Oracle until the Dalai Lama fled Tibet in 1959. The oracle became possessed by the protector deity Pehar and acted as a mouthpiece for the deity, often not having knowledge of what he said. The position of oracle came from the older Bon tradition.
POTALA PALACE
The magnificent white, black, red and gold Potala Palace dominates the skyline of Lhasa. It was the winter quarters of the Dalai Lama, housing jewel-encrusted gold and silver stupas of previous Dalai Lamas, numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.
“The residence of the Dalai Lama until the 14th Dalai Lama fled to India during the 1959 Tibetan uprising. It is now a museum and World Heritage Site. The palace is named after Mount Potalaka, the mythical abode of the bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. The 5th Dalai Lama started its construction in 1645 after one of his spiritual advisers, Konchog Chophel, pointed out that the site was ideal as a seat of government, situated as it is between Drepung and Sera monasteries and the old city of Lhasa. It may overlay the remains of an earlier fortress called the White or Red Palace on the site, built by Songtsen Gampo in 637. (The substantial structure has) copper poured into the foundations to help proof it against earthquakes. Thirteen storys of buildings, containing over 1000 rooms, 10,000 shrines and about 200,000 statues, soars 117m on top of Marpo Ri, the “Red Hill …). Tradition has it that the three main hills of Lhasa represent the “Three Protectors of Tibet”. Chokpori, just to the south of the Potala, is the soul-mountain of Vajrapani, Pongwari that of Manjusri, and Marpori, the hill on which the Potala stands, represents Avalokiteśvara.” – Wikipedia
RAMOCHE GOMPA
Just north of the Barkhor, at the end of the road to the right of Dunya Restaurant and the Yak Hotel on the left of the busy shopping road.
“Ramoche is considered the sister temple of the Jokhang, completed about the same time. Tradition says that it was built originally to house the much revered Jowo Rinpoche statue, carried to Lhasa via Lhagang in a wooden cart, brought to Tibet when Princess Wencheng came to Lhasa. Unlike the Jokhang, Ramoche was originally built in Chinese style. During Mangsong Mangtsen’s reign (7th c), because of a threat that the Tang Chinese might invade, Princess Wencheng is said to have had the statue of Jowo Rinpoche hidden in a secret chamber in the Jokhang. Princess Jincheng, sometime after 710, had it placed in the central chapel of the Jokhang. It was replaced at Ramoche by a statue of Jowo Mikyo Dorje, a small bronze statue of the Buddha when he was eight years old, crafted by Vishvakarman, and brought to Lhasa by the Nepalese queen, Bhrikuti. It is said to have been badly damaged by the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution.
The temple was badly damaged during the Mongol invasions and there is no certainty that the statue that remained in 1959 was the original one. The original temple was destroyed by fire, and the present three-storied building was constructed in 1474. Soon after it became the Assembly Hall of the Gyuto Tratsang, or Upper Tantric College of Lhasa and was home to 500 monks. There was a close connection with Yerpa which provided summer quarters for the monks.” – Wikipedia
NORBULINGKA SUMMER PALACE
Norbulingka is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, set in a quiet and relaxing garden which used to house the Dalai Lama’s pets. One particularly interesting mural inside depicts the history of Tibet and all the Dalai Lamas.
ANI TSARKHUNG (CANGGU) GOMPA (NUNNERY)
This lovely nunnery is tucked away between the Muslim Great Mosque and vegetable corner of the old city, on the furthest kora around the the Barkor. The yellow ani gompa, with an open courtyard, houses about 100 nuns. The Ani Tsarkhung Nunnery (tshamkhang means place for spiritual retreat) was built in the 7th c by Songsten Gampo, who used its meditation chamber, a spot which is now a sacred spot behind the nunnery. Since the 12th c, the monastery has been used mainly by Buddhist nuns, who support themselves through alms and manufacturing items such as clothing and printed texts. Its main assembly hall contains a beautiful image of Chenrezi, the multi-armed bodhisattva of Compassion.
“As a public nunnery, Canggu Nunnery focuses on passing on and promoting ceremonies and rituals of believing Goddess of Mercy and Buddha Tara. All the nuns are chanting by sutra recitation hall at 8:00 every morning. Then a professional ceremony lasts until about 4 pm … In addition to its unique religious dedication, Canggu Nunnery is popular among local residents also because it manages to raise funds by itself … The nunnery (also) runs a clinic. It employs experienced medical professionals as doctors and some of its nuns who know some medical knowledge as assistants. For years the clinic served the local residents, and because of their kindness, patience and consideration for the people, they are much trusted by the locals. In addition, the nunnery runs a small shop selling petty commodities that are both trustworthy quality and price.
The nunnery also runs a tea house looking on the street, and a small tea garden hiding inside. Everyday, many travelers who come to Barkhor Street to pray, burn joss sticks and stroll around would take a rest under the big umbrellas at the tea house, and have a taste of “Qia A Mao”, a sweet tea made of milk, sugar and black tea, Tibetan noodles or steamed stuffed buns made by the nuns.” – China Highlights
PHABONKHA GOMPA
About 10 km out of Lhasa, this 1300 year old monastery is one of the Lhasa region’s first buildings, and was founded by Songsten Gampo in the 7thc. “Although originally the site of his castle or fort, the Tibetan Annals have revealed that Pabonka was converted into a monastery, possibly under the reign of the second great Buddhist king of Tibet Trisong Detsen. Trisong Detsen, along with Guru Rinpoche and the first seven monks of the new Tibetan Empire, used to meditate at the hermitage and it became one of Tibet’s very earliest Buddhist monasteries, possibly even pre-dating Jokhang. The original nine-storied monastery was partially destroyed by King Langdharma in 841 during his campaign to destroy monastic Buddhism. It was rebuilt in the 11th century as a two-storied structure that housed 200 monks.” – Wikipedia
MURU SARPA (NEW) GOMPA
This smaller monastery is related to Maru Nyimpa Gompa, and is locate across the street from Gyan Gyen Hotel, with a printing press. There is another monastery just past this one called Gyume Gompa
BARKOR SQUARE & KORA
JAMPA (MAITREYA) GOMPA
A small atmospheric gompa in the middle of the Barkhor kora, access from the eastern side of the kora. There is a protector deities shrine where barley beer and chang are offered to the protector deities. Pilgrims circle the large prayer wheel just in front, and you may hear pilgrims chanting inside the prayer wheel room. The gompa is a bright yellow building just in back of the prayer wheel, with Muru Ngingpa Gompa just behind.
MURU NYINGPA (OLD) GOMPA
Muru Nyingba Gompa was the Lhasa seat of the former State Oracle, who had his main residence at Nechung Monastery. It is said that Emperor Songtsen Gampo built the first building here, and it is where the great Tibetan scholar, Thonmi Sambhota completed his work developing the Tibetan alphabet in the first half of the 7th c. The present building, first constructed during the reign of King Ralpacan in the 9th century, is built like an Indian vihara around a courtyard, with the lhakang to the north and the monks quarters on the three other sides. The gompa was destroyed during the persecution of Buddhism under Langdarma in the 9th c, but rebuilt by Atisha (980-1054) and became Gelugpa under the Third Dalai Lama, Sonam Gyatso (1543–1589). It became the Lhasa residence of the Nechung Oracle in the 17th c, the oracle who was possessed by Pehar in his trances.
BARKHOR BACK STREET WALK
From the alley just before Gyan Gyen Hotel, take a left towards the Jokhang Temple and pass House of Shambala, a boutique hotel with a great little downstairs bar and a craft shop, on the right. Continue past several shops selling baskets with leather trim, wooden butter containers, Buddhist statues and dyed textiles amongst the other mostly Chinese shops and teashops. If you head to the right, you will eventually reach Makye Ame restaurant on the Barkhor Kora. Take the left alley back out of the kora to reach the Muslim section of the old city, filled with vegetable and food vendors, homemade noodle and meat shops, and the Great Mosque of Tibet. Continue past the mosque, and take
The next turn towards the Jokhang Temple begins with the large covered market (meats, butter, vegetables and local goods), and continues past a street with several shops selling horse gear, including a Tibetan man with real antique tackle, blankets and woven bags.
Tibetan Handicraft Workshop Tour
Lhasa Village Handicraft Development Center (1-2 hrs), led by Shilok. (2 km) (shilokdolma@yahoo.com)
OLD TOWN LHASA | TIBETAN & MUSLIM QUARTERS
The small alleys in the old Tibetan Quarter of Lhasa are endlessly fascinating, with an incredible variety of delicious street food near the mosque, small gompas tucked away inside the alleyways yersa gumbu on sale in many shops, fruit and vegetable markets, local shops, some boutique hotels and local handicraft shops and great photography opportunities! Don’t miss having a bowl of laphing, the spicy bean noodles with soy sauce and green onions. Delicious!
LHASA PILGRIM KORAS
BARKOR KORA
A cultural as well as religious kora around the Jokhang Temple, busy with Tibetan pilgrims with mani wheels and prayer beads at all times of the day. The Barkhor Kora is especially atmospheric during the misty mornings with incense burning in the massive incense burners, and in the evenings as the sun sets. You’ll walk with prostrating Tibetan pilgrims, collecting small donations from other Tibetans, and should stop into Meru Nyingpa Gompa at the center of the circuit. Plenty of shopping, cafes and restaurants around this fascinating kora, and Tibetans are generally dressed in their traditional chubas, striped aprons, adorned with turquoise, coral, amber, dzi beads and wearing their men’s and women’s Stetson hats. Endlessly photogenic. (20 min)
POTALA KORA
This longer pilgrim’s kora does a look of the Potala palace, and was once, like the Barkhor Kora, lined with vendors selling handicrafts, snacks + other goods. The kora is busiest in the mornings, when you’ll often see Tibetans doing their dance exercises to music! The kora is filled with the same Tibetan pilgrims and Lhasa-pa in their traditional clothes and jewelry, and passes under the small lake at the north of the Potala. (45 min)LINGKHOR KORA
The longest of the pilgrim’s koras follows a route through Lhasa, starting from Jiangsu Lu and heading to Chagpo Ri (the Iron Mountain) and the Potala Palace. Again best in the mornings with the Tibetan pilgrims, to really experience the kora’s atmosphere. (2 ½ hrs)
LHASA SHOPPING, INFO & RESTAURANTS
Dropenling Handicraft Center
Authentic Tibetan handmade crafts, very good quality and designs, not inexpensive but worth what they charge.
https://www.asianart.com/articles/dropenling/index.html
Tibetan Village Artisans
Great craft shop just past the Ani Gompa + Great Mosque, heading towards the Barkhor Kora.
Tibetan Handicrafts Tour
Inquire if interested and we can get in touch with the organizers of this wonderful handicraft tour of old Lhasa.
Tromsikhang Market
Dried fruits and nuts, local food specialties and other shopping in a big warehouse, just off the Barkor kora.
House of Shambala
A wonderful boutique hotel where you can watch local handicrafts being produced by the artisans, enjoy a drink at the bar or a good meal at the restaurant.
Guangming Kamqung Sweet Tea House
On the Barkor kora, enjoy a cup of sweet or salt-butter tea, a bowl of thukpa or steamed momos with local Lhasa-pa and Tibetan pilgrims. This is reputedly the oldest teahouse in Lhasa, a coffee-shop atmosphere of passing the time playing dice, and catching up on the news.
Barkor Supermarket
The collection of stalls once around Barkor Square, no antiques but worth a visit for some basic crafts.
Times Square & Baiyi Supermarkets
Both all-purpose supermarkets, from fruit, vegetables and foot to outdoor gear. Times Square is a block from Yak Hotel, same side of the street as Potala, food downstairs. Baiyi Supermarket is closer to Potala, opposite side of street, similar set up.
Gear Shops
Beijing North Street (heading towards Potala) on both sides. Baiyi Supermarket
Massages
Tashi Blind Massage (A block from Yak Hotel on same side as Potala)
Blind Massage (Street leading to Barkor on right)
China Mobile
Across from Baiyi Supermarket
Lhasa Restaurants & Cafes (Kamzang Favorites)
Dunya
Tibetan Family Kitchen
Snowland Restaurant
The Lark Teahouse (inside kora, near Tibetan Family Kitchen)
Old Lap Rang Tibetan Family Restaurant (last quarter of kora, inside courtyard)
Namaste Restaurant
House of Shambala
Tashi 1
LhaSa ChuFang
UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES (From UNESCO)
The Potala Palace, Lhasa
The Potala Palace, winter palace of the Dalai Lama since the 7th century, symbolizes Tibetan Buddhism and its central role in the traditional administration of Tibet. The complex, comprising the White and Red Palaces with their ancillary buildings, is built on Red Mountain in the centre of Lhasa Valley, at an altitude of 3,700m. Also founded in the 7th century, the Jokhang Temple Monastery is an exceptional Buddhist religious complex. Norbulingka, the Dalai Lama’s former summer palace, constructed in the 18th century, is a masterpiece of Tibetan art. The beauty and originality of the architecture of these three sites, their rich ornamentation and harmonious integration in a striking landscape, add to their historic and religious interest.
Enclosed within massive walls, gates and turrets built of rammed earth and stone the White and Red Palaces and ancillary buildings of the Potala Palace rise from Red Mountain in the centre of Lhasa Valley at an altitude of 3,700 metres. As the winter palace of the Dalai Lama from the 7th century CE the complex symbolizes Tibetan Buddhism and its central role in the traditional administration of Tibet. The White Palace contains the main ceremonial hall with the throne of the Dalai Lama, and his private rooms and audience hall are on the uppermost level. The palace contains 698 murals, almost 10,000 painted scrolls, numerous sculptures, carpets, canopies, curtains, porcelain, jade, and fine objects of gold and silver, as well as a large collection of sutras and important historical documents. To the west and higher up the mountain the Red Palace contains the gilded burial stupas of past Dalai Lamas. Further west is the private monastery of the Dalai Lama, the Namgyel Dratshang.
The Potala Palace symbolizes Tibetan Buddhism and its central role in the traditional administration of Tibet. Also founded in the 7th century, the Jokhang Temple Monastery is an exceptional Buddhist religious complex. Norbulingka, the Dalai Lama’s former summer palace, constructed in the 18th century, is a masterpiece of Tibetan art. The beauty and originality of the architecture of these three sites, their rich ornamentation and harmonious integration in a striking landscape, add to their historic and religious interest. Construction of the Potala Palace began at the time of Songtsen of the Thubet (Tubo) dynasty in the 7th century AD. It was rebuilt in the mid-17th century by the 5th Dalai Lama in a campaign that lasted 30 years, reaching its present size in the years that followed, as a result of repeated renovation and expansion.
The Potala is located on Red Mountain, 3700m above sea level, in the centre of the Lhasa valley. The White palace is approached by a winding road leading to an open square in front of the palace. Its central section is the East Main Hall, where all the main ceremonies take place. The throne of the Dalai Lama is on the north side of the hall, the walls of which are covered with paintings depicting religious and historical themes. At the top of the White Palace is the personal suite of the Dalai Lama. The Red Palace lies to the west of the White Palace. Its purpose is to house the stupas holding the remains of the Dalai Lamas. It also contains many Buddha and sutra halls. To the west of the Red Palace is the Namgyel Dratshang, the private monastery of the Dalai Lama. Other important components of the Potala complex are the squares to the north and south and the massive palace walls, built from rammed earth and stone and pierced by gates on the east, south and west sides.
The Jokhang Temple, Lhasa
The Jokhang Temple Monastery was founded by the regime also in the 7th century, in order to promote the Buddhist religion. It comprises an entrance porch, courtyard and Buddhist hall surrounded by accommodation for monks and storehouses on all four sides. The buildings are constructed of wood and stone and are outstanding examples of the Tibetan Buddhist style, with influences from China, India, and Nepal. They house over 3,000 images of Buddha and other deities and historical figures along with many other treasures and manuscripts. Mural paintings depicting religious and historical scenes cover the walls.
Building of the Jokhang Temple Monastery began in the 7th century CE, during the Tang dynasty in China. The Tibetan imperial court eagerly espoused Buddhism when it was introduced. The site of the Temple Monastery was selected, according to legend, when the cart in which Wen Cheng was bringing the statue of Sakyamuni sank into the mud by Wotang Lake. Divination identified this as the site of the Dragon Palace, the malign influence of which could only be counteracted by the building of a monastery. The foundation stone was laid in 647 and the first major reconstruction took place in the early 11th century. During the century following the reunification of the Tibetan kingdom by the Sakya dynasty in the mid-13th century, a number of new developments took place. These included extension of the Hall of Buddha Sakyamuni and construction of a new entrance and the Hall of Buddha Dharmapala. The Temple Monastery is in the centre of the old town of Lhasa. It comprises essentially an entrance porch, a courtyard and a Buddhist hall, surrounded by accommodation for monks and storehouses on all four sides. The buildings are constructed of wood and stone. The 7th Dalai Lama is reported to have had health problems and he used to come here for a cure.
Norbulingka, Lhasa
Norbulingka, the Dalai Lama’s former summer palace constructed in the 18th century, is located on the bank of the Lhasa River about 2km west of the Potala Palace in a lush green environment. It comprises a large garden with four palace complexes and a monastery as well as other halls, and pavilions all integrated into the garden layout to create an exceptional work of art covering 36ha. The property is closely linked with religious and political issues, having been a place for contemplation and for signing political agreements.
The construction of Norbulingka started in 1751 with the Uya Palace. Successive Dalai Lamas continued building pavilions, palaces and halls, making it their summer residence, and soon the site became another religious, political, and cultural centre of Tibet, after the Potala Palace. Norbulingka (treasure garden) is located at the bank of the Lhasa River about 2 km west of the Potala Palace. The site consists of a large garden with several palaces, halls, and pavilions, amounting to some 36 ha. The area is composed of five sections.
The site of Norbulingka was a place with gentle streams, dense and lush forest, birds, and animals known as Lava tsel. The 7th Dalai Lama is reported to have had health problems and he used to come here for a cure. The construction of Norbulingka started in 1751 with the Uya Palace, benefiting from financial assistance from the central government. Successive Dalai Lamas continued building pavilions, palaces, and halls, making it their summer residence, and soon the site became another religious, political, and cultural centre of Tibet, after the Potala Palace. The Gesang Palace was built in 1755 and included a court for debates. The Tsoje Palace and the Jensen Palace were built by the 13th Dalai Lama in the 1920s, influenced by his time in Beijing; the Gesang Deje Palace was constructed in 1926. The Tagtan Migyur Palace was built in 1954-56 with support from the Central People’s Government. Since the departure of the 14th Dalai Lama in 1959, Norbulingka has been managed first by the Culture Management Group under the Preparatory Committee of the Autonomous Region and later directly by the Cultural Management Committee and Bureau.
The Historic Ensemble, Lhasa
The historic ensemble of the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple and Norbulingka embody the administrative, religious and symbolic functions of the Tibetan theocratic government through their location, layout and architecture. The beauty and originality of the architecture of these three sites, their rich ornamentation and harmonious integration in a striking landscape.
History of Lhasa
According to historical records, construction of the Potala Palace began in the time of Songtsen Gampo of the Thubet or Tubo dynasty in the 7th century AD. It was rebuilt in the mid 17th century by the 5th Dalai Lama. It reached its present size and form in the years that foilowed, as a result of repeated renovation and expansion. Songtsen Gampo (reigned c. 609-649) played a very important role in the political, economie, and cultural development of Tibet; he also encouraged close links with central China. He united Tibet and, for political and military reasons, moved the capital from Lalong to Lhasa, where he built a palace on the Red Mountain in the centre of the city. He married Princess Tritsun (Bhrikuti) of the Nepalese Royal House and Princess Wencheng of the Chinese Tang Dynasty. 1t is recorded that his palace was an enormous complex of buildings with three defensive walls and 999 rooms, plus one on the peak of the Red Mountain.
Following the collapse of the Tubo Dynasty in the 9th century, Tibetan society was plunged into a long period of turmoil, during which the Red Mountain Palace fell into disrepair. However, it began to assume the role of a religious site. During the 12th century Khyungpo Drakse of the Kadampa sect preached there, and it was later used for the same purpose by Tshurpu Karmapa and Tsongkapa, founder of the Gelukpa sect, and his disciples.
The Gelukpa sect developed rapidly in Tibet during the 15th century, assuming the dominant place. With the help of Gushri Khan, leader of the Mongol Khoshotd tribe, the 5th Dalai Lama defeated the Karmapa Dynasty in the mid 17th century and founded the Ganden Phodrang Dynasty. The dynasty’s first seat of government was the Drepung Monastery; however, since the Red Mountain Palace bad been the residence of Songtsen Gampo and was close to the three major temples of Drepung, Sera, and Ganden, it was decided to rebuild it in arder to facilitate joint political and religious leadership. Reconstruction began in 1645, and three years later a complex of buildings with the White Palace (Phodrang Karpo) as its nucleus was completed. The 5th Dalai Lama moved there from Drepung Monastery, and ever since that time the Potala Palace bas been the residence and seat of government of succeeding Dalai Lamas.
Building of the Red Palace was begun by Sangye Gyatsho, the chief executive official of the time, eight years after the death of the 5th Dalai Lama, as a memorial to him and to accommodate his funerary stupa. It was completed four years later, in 1694, and is second in size only to the White Palace. With its construction the Potala Palace became a vast complex of palace halls, Buddha halls, and stupas. Funerary stupas (chortens) were added in memory of the 7th, 8th, 9th, and 13th Dalai Lamas, each within its own hall. The most recent is that of the 13th Dalai Lama, the building of which lasted from 1934 to 1936. Special mention should be made of the fact that the Meditation Cave of the Dharma King, situated at the top of the mountain where Songtsen Gampo is said to have studied, and the Lokeshvara Chapel, both of which preceded the building of the present Palace, have been incorporated into the complex.
Building of the Jokhang Temple Monastery began in the reign of Srong-brtsan-sgam-po XXXll in the 7th century CE, during the Tang Dynasty in China. This ruler united Tibet and moved his capital to Demon (present-day Lhasa). The Tibetan imperial court eagerly espoused Buddhism when it was introduced, and this process was intensified when Princess Bhikruti of Nepal and Princess Wen Cheng of the Tang Dynasty came to Tibet as royal consorts.
The site of the Temple Monastery was selected, according to legend, when the cart in which Wen Cheng was bringing the statue of Sakyamuni sank into the mud by Wotang Lake. The Princess used divination to identify this as the site of the Dragon Palace, the malign influence of which could only be counteracted by the building of a monastery. The foundation stone was laid in 647 and the foundations were completed within a year. In 823 the Tibetan regime and the Tang Dynasty entered into an alliance. To commemorate this event a stone was erected outside the monastery, known as the Stone Tablet of Long- Term Unity.
The first major reconstruction of the Jokhang Temple Monastery took place in the early 11th century. The Jokhang Buddhist Hall was extensively renovated and the Hall of Buddha Sakyamuni was added to its eastern side. The circumambulatory corridor around the hall was added around 1167, when the mural paintings were restored. Upward curving tiled eaves were added in the early 13th century. During the century following the reunification of the Tibetan kingdom by the Sakya Dynasty in the mid-13th century, a number of new developments took place. These included extension of the Hall of Buddha Sakyamuni, construction of a new entrance and the Hall of Buddha Dharmapala, and the introduction of sculptures of Srong-brtsan-sgam-po, Wen Cheng, and Bhikruti Devi. Buddhist halls and golden tiled roofs were added on the third storey on the east, west, and north sides. Tsongka Pa founded the reforming Gelugpa School of Tibetan Buddhism in the early 15th century, initiating the Great Prayer Festival. At his instigation part of the inner courtyard of the main Jokhang Hall was roofed.
Tibet was formally included in the Chinese domain during the Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368). In 1642 the 5th Dalai Lama, who had received an Imperial title from the Qing rulers of China, began a project of restoration that was to last thirty years. It was continued during the regency of Sangyetgyatso (1679-1703). The main entrance of the Temple Monastery, the Ten Thousand Buddha Corridor (Qianfolang), the Vendana Path, and the third and fourth storys of the main Buddhist Hall all date from this period.
Note on Tibet
Note on Traveling in Tibet
‘Tibetians employ a lunar calendar, which would in theory assign to each month 29½ days. Since the solar year is 365¼ days, each lunar year – twelve lunar months – is 11 days too short. To make up for this, every three years an additional month is added. However, like wild cards in a poker game, the extra month can be added anywhere in the Tibetan calendar year, the position being determined by an astrological forecast indicating what would be the lucky place to add the new month. Actually, even this is a slight oversimplification. In practice Tibetans round off the lunar month to exactly thirty days, but then they go ahead and add the extra month every three years anyway. To make up the difference, certain days of the month – again decided by the official astrologers – are simply eliminated, or, if some days are thought to be particularly fortunate, they may be doubled. At the end of each year the official astrologer presents the calendar for the following year. Until then, there is no future calendar. The new year begins in February, except in those years that begin following an added month, when the year begins in March. Hence when modern historical writers on Tibet indicate that some even occurred, say in April of 619 A.D., it gives one pause for thought.
The days of the Tibetan week – seven in number – are named after the sun, the moon, and the five visible planets; Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, and Saturn. Sa is the Tibetan word for “planet” and the seven days are then names: Sa Nyi-ma [Sunday – Sun], Sa Da-wa [Monday – Moon], Sa Mik-mar [Tuesday – Mars], Sa Lak-pa [Wednesday – Mercury], Sa Pur-bu [Thursday – Jupiter], Sa Pa-sang [Friday – Venus] and Sa Pen-pa [Saturday – Saturn]. Until the eleventh century, a twelve-year calendar cycle was used; each year being named after one of the following animals: mouse, ox, tiger, hare, dragon, serpent, horse, sheep, ape, bird, dog, and hog. In the year 1027 A.D. – one hopes the historian have made the correct conversion – the Tibetans began a sixty-year cycle as advocated in the Kalacakra-Tantra, a Sanskrit religious text that was translated into Tibetan that year. To make up the sixty-year cycle, the twelve animals are combined with five elements: wood, fire, earth, iron, and water. Thus the years have colorful names like Fire-Mouse or Iron-Ape. Tibetan historical documents contain phrases like “On the thirteenth day of the eighth month of the Water-Tiger year . . .’
– ‘In the Himalayas’ – Jeremy Bernstein (1989), pp 228-229.
Kathmandu Tours
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.
Namaste!
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Kathmandu Valley Guided Sightseeing Day Tours
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Sightseeing Tour (Full Day) | Pashupatinath, Boudhanath & Swayambunath ($125)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Sightseeing Tour (Half Day) | Pashupatinath & Boudhanath ($75)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Car – No Guide (Morning or Evening) | Swayambunath ($35)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Walking Tour (Half Day) | Kathmandu Durbar Square ($50)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Tour (Half Day) | Patan Durbar Square ($65)
+ Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Sightseeing Tour (Full Day) | Bhaktapur & Changu Narayan ($135)
+ Kathmandu Valley Heritage + Craft Tour (Custom Tours)
+ Cycling Trip in Kathmandu Valley (Custom Trips)
+ Everest Express Sightseeing Flight ($225)
+ Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour (Custom Tours)
TOUR NOTE | Additional tour member + $30. Entrance fees not included.
Kathmandu Heritage Multi Day Tours & Hikes
Kathmandu Valley | Heritage Treks & Tours – Nepal
Kathmandu | Full Day World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Boudhanath, Pashupatinath & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guide, vehicles and guides as required. See Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings for more details.
We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning, and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating, when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.
Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gompas) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.
Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world renown artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.
In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self created’ stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisvatti, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings, when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox to with colorful offerings for the goddess.
Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokhari’s, or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.
+Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Kathmandu | Half Day World Heritage Patan Durbar Square Sightseeing Tour
Visit the third of Kathmandu’s ancient capitals, known as ‘The City of Fine Arts’, best if you have an extra day in hand as Patan is also rich in cultural heritage, has many lovely roof-top cafes for lunch and world-class museums. Some of the highlights of Patan are its Durbar Square, the Krishna Temple within the palace complex of Patan (entirely made of stone, with 21 distinctive spires), and Hiranya Varna Mahavir, or the Golden Buddha Temple.
+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Kathmandu Valley | Full Day World Heritage Bhaktapur & Changu Narayan Sightseeing Tour
One more day in Kathmandu, with a sightseeing excursion by private vehicle to Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur which translates as ‘Place of Devotees’ and is also known as Bhadgaon, is an ancient Newar city approximately 15 kilometers east of the Kathmandu Valley. Bhaktapur is one of three ancient capitals of the Kathmandu valley, the capital of the Newar Kingdom and a city of artisans and craftspeople famous for its art and architecture: intricate carvings, sculptures, paintings, thankas, pottery, statues and temples, or pagodas. Bhaktapur has a well-preserved ‘durbar square’, or palace square, and has been named a World Heritage site by UNESCO because of its incredible temples, pagodas, wood carvings, stone carvings and metalwork. Bhaktapur is also famous for its yogurt, called curd in Asia, a taste which hasn’t been duplicated anywhere.
Spend the day exploring Bhaktapur and its rich cultural heritage, where a majority of enthnic Newaris live in traditional ways, and life seems to stand still. There are many great restaurants and cafes to rejuvenate, and it’s possibly the best spot in Kathmandu for purchasing a thanka after watching the technique, as well as shopping for endless other locally produced crafts. Bhaktapur is home to countless local festivals, so if you are lucky and arrive on a festival day, enjoy the timeless and colorful events unfold.
You’ll also visit at Changu Narayan, a few km from Bhaktapur and one of Kathmandu’s oldest Newari temple villages. Legend has it that Changu Narayan was given to the daughter, Champak, of a Kashmiri king of Nepal when she wedded the prince of Bhaktapur. The important Vishnu temple is one of the oldest temples in all of Nepal, and was damaged during the 2015 earthquakes.
+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Everest Sightseeing Mountain Flight
An hour long extravaganza of the world’s 8000 meter peaks. Airport Transfers not Included. (+$250 or Market Price)
Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour
Inquire for prices and options for a once in a lifetime helicopter trip flying right over Everest Base Camp, Kala Pattar, the Khumbu Glacier, plus incredible views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Pumori and more! Cost per helicopter, option to stop at Everest View Hotel for an ‘Everest breakfast’. (+$Inquire for Options)
Cycling Trip Kathmandu Valley
Many options for day trips, or extended trips, in the Kathmandu Valley. We can customize a cycling trip for you in partnership with one of our knowledgeable partners in Kathmandu. (+$Inquire for Options)
Shivapuri Heights Cottages
A wonderful get away 20 km north of Kathmandu, Shivapuri Heights Cottages are stylishly designed and personal cottages built around a ‘common house’, where you can breakfast overlooking the stunningly beautiful Kathmandu valley. Massages available on request. (+$Inquire for Options)
Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! for ideas to put together the perfect journey.
We recommend Kathmandu Valley heritage tours to Bhaktapur or Patan (the Kathmandu Valley’s other historic capital cities), mountain biking, river rafting, yoga retreats, get-aways to Gorkha, Bandipur, Panauti or Namo Buddha to visit traditional hill villages, temples, monasteries and fortresses or a tour of the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas!
Everest sightseeing flight or an epic helicopter tour over Everest Base Camp, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa in Pokhara or Himalayan Front in Sarangkot, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining over Phewa Lake, a spa + wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing, luxury wildlife excursion to Chitwan National Park staying at Tharu Lodge or Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, a chic wildlife safari in Bardia National Park at Tiger Tops, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or 5-star treatment in historic Dwarika’s Heritage Hotel in Kathmandu.
Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these wonderful excursions for you!
Everest Heli Tours
Everest Helicopter Tour Kwondge | Dinner Sunset & Sunrise over Everest – Yeti Mountain Home
An epic private helicopter tour for an extra day in the spectacular Khumbu region. Sunset dinner and sunrise breakfast overlooking some of the best Himalayan views on the planet! Board your private helicopter from Namche for the quick flight to Kwongde YMH Lodge, and enjoy lunch overlooking this vast panorama of peaks. Views include some of the highest peaks on the planet, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Gyajung Khang (the highest peak under 8000m), and the majestic Ama Dambam. From the YMH Lodge, you can look down on Kwonde Lake, generally hidden, and up the awe-inspiring Khumbu valley. The Kwongde YMH (Yeti Mountain Home) is a luxury lodge, one of the world’s highest hotels in one of the Himalaya’s most dramatic locations. Your epic helicopter tour finishes back in Namche Bazaar, but you have the option to charter the helicopter back to Lukla or Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter – Namche to Namche ($1800)
+ Max 4 Passengers
+ Price Per Person Yeti Mountain Home – Breakfast + Dinner ($175)
+ Single Supplement ($75)
Everest Mountain Helicopter Sightseeing Tour | Namche to Namche | Lukla, Everest Base Camp, Cho La Pass (Gokyo Valley), Renjo La Pass (Thame Valley) & Namche
A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region’s spectacular peaks, glaciers, and Himalayan passes! Your private helicopter picks you up in Namche Bazaar, from where you will fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp, as well as the incredible Everest icefall. You will have a chance to stop on Kala Pattar for photos of this spectacular setting. Back in your helicopter, your flight path takes you over Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass, and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake, with another touch down to splash some sacred lake on yourself before crossing the Renjo La pass to the traditional Thame valley, the old trade route to Tibet. Your epic helicopter tour finishes back in Namche Bazaar, but you have the option to charter the helicopter back to Lukla or Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter ($2750) – Namche to Namche
+ Max 4 Passengers
Everest Mountain Epic Sightseeing Tour | Kathmandu to Kathmandu | Lukla, Everest Base Camp, Cho La Pass (Gokyo Valley) & Namche
The full helicopter deal, all the way from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp, and much more! A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region’s spectacular peaks, glaciers, and Himalayan passes! Your private helicopter picks you up at Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu, from where you will fly up to the fabled Tenzin Norgay airport in Lukla. After a cup of tea in Lukla, you will reboard your helicopter and fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp and the sublime Everest icefall. You will have the unique chance to stop at Everest Base camp for photos of this spectacular setting.
Back in the helicopters, your flight path takes you over beautiful Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass, and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake and down the Gokyo Valley. Your epic helicopter continues by flying back over Namche Bazaar, and back through Nepal’s lush middle hills to Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter ($5000) – Kathmandu to Kathmandu
+ Max 4 Passengers
Great Stays
BOUTIQUE & LUXURY HOTELS | KATHMANDU VALLEY
Kathmandu Guest House
Kathmandu Guest House
The Kathmandu Guest House is one of Kathmandu’s first hotels, originally a Rana Palace. Located in the heart of Thamel, the Kathmandu Guest House is a beautiful, lively hotel with a large garden and lovely outdoor cafes, centrally located in Thamel with a wide range of restaurants, cafes, yoga and shopping surrounding it. KGH offers a wide selection of rooms, including their wonderful deluxe rooms.
“Travelers know that the frenetic pace of a crowded city like Kathmandu needs an escape. The Kathmandu Guest House, a converted Rana dynasty mansion with fragrant gardens and airy corridors, has provided the peaceful refuge of choice since 1967. Since the days of being the first and only hotel in Thamel, the packed tourist district of Kathmandu, it’s become something of an institution. It’s close to everywhere and its gate is the meeting point that nobody can mistake. As a guidebook put it, “Kathmandu Guest House acts as a magnet for mountaineers, pop stars, actors and eccentric characters.” Even the Beatles stayed here in 1968. Whether you’re returning from the mountains or arriving from the airport, come and relax at the courtyard restaurant, order a cup of fine Italian coffee or a chilled Gorkha Beer, and escape for a moment in the historic surroundings of Kathmandu’s most loved guesthouse.”
Kathmandu Guest House Timeline
KGH History
Dwarika’s
Dwarika’s Hotel
Dwarika’s, Kathmandu’s premier hotel built and decorated with traditional Kathmandu valley architecture, is an oasis of calm located near the airport, where you can relax by the pool, visit the award-winning spa, enjoy the serene, historic surroundings and dine at one of their world-class restaurants.
“Dwarika’s Hotel was registered in 1977, with the idea of reviving the architectural splendour of the valley. All the terracotta work was made in the valley, using local clay and skills. The couple also incorporated elements of Nepal’s diverse cultural heritage, including those from beyond the valley, when designing the rooms. The furniture was crafted by families of traditional carpenters, and the linen, textiles and embroideries were hand woven and used Nepali patterns. In all purposes, Dwarika Das Shrestha took some of the finest elements of Nepali crafts, and presented them in a way that had not been done before. In explaining his vision, he once stated: “My project is to recreate a 15th-17th century environment where tourist and Nepali alike would have a sensation of the original. The hotel as a commercial enterprise is merely a vehicle to finance and carry my dream forward.”
History of Newari Culture in Kathmandu. Inspiration for the Heritage Architecture of Dwarika’s
Newari History in Kathmandu
History of Dwarika’s
Dwarika’s History
Dwarika’s Resort Dhulikhel
Dwarika’s Resort
A top-notch resort, with a wonderful spa, and wellness, and yoga retreats, on the Kathmandu Valley rim. “With the belief in the need for maintaining harmony between the body, mind, spirit and the planet for a peaceful, healthy and balanced life; the Dwarika’s Resort is built on the philosophy of respecting nature and self. The resort takes its inspiration from ancient Hindu Vedic scriptures (Vedas), Buddhist medicine and traditional Himalayan knowledge. The Himalayan belt has been home to holistic healing and wellbeing for more than three thousand years. The region’s approach to wellbeing, its serene natural beauty and rare medicinal herbs has attracted great sages through time. The Hindu Vedic scriptures describe Ayurveda, the science of life, as a comprehensive approach to wellbeing that encompasses the study of biology, spirituality, psychology, astronomy, nutrition and beauty. Originating from the same roots the Buddhist approaches to wellbeing also follows similar path and views health as harmony between the mind, body, spirit and one’s environment.
The resort has been designed based on the knowledge of these ancient understanding about holistic wellbeing with all the spaces being consecrated and brought to life. The lifestyle spaces within the resort are designed to attract positive energy and keep negative energy at bay. When you go around the resort you can find details we have placed in various spaces to ensure the energy within the resort is as positive as possible. For example, the resort is surrounded by Cactus (Ketuki), which is believed to cleanse the space around it of all the negative energy and attract positive energy instead. Hence, adding to the calm and nurturing environment offered within the resort. The resort also offers various activities within these spaces to enhance and add value to our guests’ experience.”
Yak & Yeti
Yak & Yeti
Yak & Yeti is one of Kathmandu’s historic 5-star hotels, steeped in history, with a lovely pool and garden, located just off Durbar Marg, a tree-lined, upscale road of shops and hotels. ” Yak & Yeti opened in 1977 as a 120 room, 5-star hotel – the first of its kind in Nepal. A new wing of an additional 150 rooms was built in harmony with the architectural features of the old palace, Lal Durbar, bringing the room total to 270. The whole hotel is a sumptuous array of beautiful artifacts, art, and traditionally crafted fixtures. Attention to detail has been meticulously considered throughout, giving the feeling you aren’t just in a hotel as much as an art gallery or museum. Over the years the hotel has been upgraded and extended and now boasts a shopping arcade, a swimming pool, two tennis courts and a state-of-the-art fitness center and luxury spa.”
Hyatt Regency
Hyatt Regency
The Hyatt is a stylish, 5-star hotel located near Boudhanath, with a large pool, a great buffet breakfast, a gym and a mix of Buddhist and Hindu decor in the lobby and rooms. “Hyatt Regency Kathmandu is a five-star luxury hotel and resort in Kathmandu, set on 37 acres of landscaped grounds and created in the traditional Newari style of Nepalese architecture. This beautiful hotel and resort is located on the road to the Boudhanath Stupa: the most holy of all Tibetan Buddhist shrines outside of Tibet and a UNESCO World Heritage Site located within a five-minute walk from the hotel. The hotel is just 4km (2.4m) from the Tribhuvan International Airport and 6 km (3.7m) from the city center of Kathmandu.”
Hotel Tibet
Hotel Tibet
“Since 1998, Hotel Tibet has set the standard for showcasing the warmth of Tibetan hospitality. Newly renovated post-COVID, we have worked towards merging modern elements with traditional Tibetan aesthetic to provide you with the utmost convenience and comfort and to make your stay with us a memorable experience. We have newly-renovated rooms, divided into deluxe, club, and suite categories that combine contemporary and traditional Tibetan designs. Our rooms are especially designed with your comfort in mind, featuring plush bedding, modern furnishings, and elegant decor.”
Dusit Princess
Dusit Princess
Kathmandu’s BEST rooftop bar, restaurant and pool. Brother of the owner of Hotel Tibet, which shares the property. “Make Dusit Princess Kathmandu your base for exploring Nepal’s vibrant capital. Comfort, value and convenience will define your stay, with warm Thai and Nepalese hospitality woven into every moment. Conveniently located in upmarket Lazimpat, the hotel has international restaurants and Narayanhiti Palace Museum on its doorstep.”
Marriott
Marriott
The Marriot was completed in 2020, located just near Nag Pokhari, with Kathmandu’s best buffet! “Retreat to Kathmandu Marriott Hotel, a 214-room contemporary hotel in the capital city of Kathmandu. Settle into spacious, well-appointed rooms and suites, many with views of the Himalayan range. Dine in our hotel restaurants, featuring International cuisine at Thamel Kitchen and Asian cuisine at Edamame. Relax at Raksi Music Bar with delicious food and beverages overlooking our waterfall terrace. Get pampered in our full-service hotel spa and salon, take a dip in our outdoor pool or work out in our 24-hour fitness center.”
Sheraton Hotel
Sheraton Hotel
One of Kathmandu’s great rooftop bars and pools! “Surrounded by the Himalayas, The Sheraton Kathmandu Hotel is conveniently located along the city’s main road, Kantipath. Once the Royal Palace for the kings of Nepal, The Narayanhiti Palace Museum is nearby as are embassies, banks and corporate offices. Tribhuvan International Airport is forty minutes away.
Kathmandu’s most popular tourist area, Thamel is located adjacent to the hotel and is filled with restaurants, bars, cafés and shops. In addition to traditional woolen items, pashmina shawls and scarves, as well as mountaineering equipment, you can savor some delightful Nepalese cuisine, including dumplings called momos, dal, and kwati, a delicious Newari curry soup made with a variety of beans.
This 20,000 SM GFA, 218-key Sheraton Hotel is located on a 6,647 SM site in the center of Kathmandu. The hotel includes food and beverage, a 900 SM banquet hall, meeting rooms, spa and gymnasium facilities and back-of-house areas.”
The Terraces
The Terraces
“The Terraces Resort and Spa is a luxury resort in Nepal, offering stunning views of the Kathmandu Valley and majestic Himalayas located near the border of Bhaktapur with easy access from Lalitpur. We provide the perfect environment to unwind, reconnect with nature and celebrate life’s special moments. Our friendly and professional staff is dedicated to catering to your every need, guiding you to discover the best of Nepal’s culture and nature through bespoke activities and tours. Immerse yourself in the historical sites of Bhaktapur or venture into the scenic landscapes of Lakuri Bhanjyang, creating unforgettable experiences that embrace the essence of Nepal. The Terraces is not just a luxury resort in Kathmandu – it is a destination where you can savor life to the fullest.
The resort, located just 16km from Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport, fuses international sensibilities with the best of what Nepal has to offer: Stunning mountain views, fresh air, wide open spaces and organic food. Each spacious room or suite comes with a terrace balcony. The only barrier between you and the beautiful world outside is floor-to-ceiling windows.”
BOUTIQUE HOTELS
There are many other boutique and character-filled hotels and guesthouses around the Kathmandu Valley. Just a few that we like listed, but this is not AT ALL an extensive list.
KATHMANDU | THREE CAPITALS
Potala Guesthouse – Thamel
Hotel Roadhouse – Thamel
Kantipur Temple House – Thamel
Nepali Ghar – Thamel
Aloft by Marriot – Thamel
Hotel Mulberry – Thamel (Pool)
1905 Suites – Nag Pokhari
Hotel Manaslu – Lazimpat
Hotel Shambala – Bainsbari – Maharajganj (Pool)
Babar Mahal Vilas – Babar Mahal
Hotel Padma – Boudhanath
Rokpa Guest House – Boudhanath
Hotel Shambaling – Boudhanath
Hotel Tibet International – Boudhanath
Hotel Lotus Gems – Boudhanath (Pool)
Cozy Nepal – Patan
Pahan Chhen – Patan
Traditional Stay Patan – Patan
The Inn Patan – Patan
Traditional Homes | Swota – Patan
Peacock Guest House – Bhaktapur
Hotel Heritage – Bhaktapur
KATHMANDU VALLEY & AROUND
The Fort Resort – Nagarkot
Hotel Mystic Mountain – Nagarkot
Gaia Holiday Home – Dhulikhel
Gokarna Forest Resort – Gokarna
Shivapuri Heights Cottages – Budhanilkanta, Shivapuri
The Old Inn – Bandipur
The Famous Farm – Nuwakot
Gorkha Gaun Resort – Gorkha
Terraces Resort – Lhakuri Bhanjyang Lamatar
Balthali Village Resort – Panauti
Park Village Resort – Budhanilkhanta (Pool)
POKHARA & AROUND
Begnas Lake Resort – Begnas Lake (Pool)
Hotel Karuna – Pokhara
Temple Tree Hotel & Spa – Pokhara (Pool)
Lakeview Resort – Pokhara
Hotel Barahi – Pokhara (Pool)
Summit River Lodge – Kurintar (Kathmandu – Pokhara Highway)
Ghale Gaun Homestay – Ghale Gaun (Near Besi Sahar)
FARMHOUSES & HOMESTAYS
Namo Buddha Resort – Namo Buddha
Herb Nepal – Bhaktapur
Nagarkot Farmhouse – Nagarkot
Srijana Farms – Tansen, Palpa
The Bosan Farmhouse – Bosan Danda
Almost Heaven Farm – Ilam
Barpeepal Bisauni Homestay – Ilam
KATHMANDU POOLS
Hyatt Regency – Boudhanath
Dwarika’s Hotel – Near Airport
Park Village Resort – Budhanilkhanta
Hotel Shanker – Lazimpat
Hotel Shambala – Bainsbari – Maharajganj
Marriott – Nag Pokhari
Yak & Yeti – Durbar Marg
Hotel Mulberry – Thamel
Photos
KIM BANNISTER PHOTOGRAPHY | HIMALAYAN TREKS, CYCLE TRIPS & TRAVELS
Kim Bannister Photography
CYCLE THE HIMALAYA PHOTOS
Guided Cycling Trips
KAMZANG JOURNEYS | ALL ABOUT US IN PHOTOS
Explore Kamzang Journeys
KAMZANG JOURNEYS | YELLOW TENT PHOTOS
The Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness
HIMALAYAN WILDLIFE, BIRDS & FLOWERS PHOTOS
Himalayan Wildlife, Birds & Plants
HIMALAYAN DESIGN & CULTURAL PHOTOS
Himalayan Design & Cultural Photos
KAMZANG JOURNEYS GROUP PHOTOS
Kamzang Journeys Groups
KAMZANG JOURNEYS STAFF PHOTOS
Kamzang Journeys Staff
THE KAMZANG FUND & KAMZANG KIDS PHOTOS
The Kamzang Fund
NEPAL JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Nepal Journey
INDIA JOURNEY PHOTOS
India Journeys
TIBET JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Tibet Journeys
BHUTAN JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Bhutan Journeys
MYANMAR (BURMA) JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Myanmar (Burma) Photos
MONGOLIA JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Mongolia Journeys
SOUTHEAST ASIA PHOTOS
South East Asia Photos