Sky Caves of Upper Mustang Boutique & Traditional Lodge Treks
Lo Manthang Tiji Festival (Lama Dance) Optional (May)
Nepal Himalaya Treks

Upper Mustang Boutique & Lo Manthang Lodge Trek | Tiji Festival Options – Nepal Himalaya Trekking
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House 
Welcome to Nepal! You will be met at Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from Kamzang Journeys or Khumbu Adventures (our partners in Kathmandu) Doma, Lhakpa and Nuru Sherpa). Look for a sign with your name on it as you leave the arrival area. We strongly suggest purchasing a NTC (Nepal Telecom) SIM card as you leave the airport if you have an unlocked phone. It’s very useful for data in the remote regions of Nepal. We will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House (or see Great Stays tab for luxury, boutique, and other hotel options in the Kathmandu Valley) where your room has been booked for you. Drink plenty of water to hydrate after your flight, and enjoy your first evening in Kathmandu …

We’ll need your travel medical insurance and a copy of your passport and Nepali visa. Please have them ready to give to Lhakpa, Doma or Nuru. And please ask if you need your gear checked, or have shopping or sightseeing questions.

Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Enjoy dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants … (B)

Day 2 – Kathmandu
Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (See Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Day 3 – Fly Pokhara 800m (2625′) | Transfer Lakeview Resort, Hotel Barahi or Temple Tree Resort
You’ll start your Upper Mustang journey with a short, scenic 20-minute flight to Pokhara, 198 kilometers west of Kathmandu, flying above the rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. From the plane, look down on terraced villages and green hills, with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance, and land in balmy, sub-tropical Pokhara. You will transfer to the wonderful Hotel Barahi just off Lakeside Road, with a spa, a lovely pool and beautifully designed rooms.

Enjoy the afternoon in relaxing Pokhara; wander the shore of Phewa Lake, go paragliding or zip-lining, wander along the lakeside (Lakeside Road takes you all the way along the southeast side of the lake and there is a beautiful new walking trail right along the lake), rent a bicycle, paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views (or bike around the lake and to the stupa, a challenging ride), enjoy a glass of fresh juice while doing some shopping, or just sit and relax at the pool, you might want to bring a swimsuit with a book. We recommend Moondance Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, a great restaurant just up Lakeside Road. (B)

Day 4 – Fly Jomsom 2720m. Drive Kagbeni & Chhusang 2955m (9695′) (Bhirkuti Guest House) | Explore Tetang 2955m
Up early for the spectacular mountain flight to the district headquarters of Mustang, Jomsom. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet, you’ll be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans. From the airport enjoy the fantastic panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

After breakfast at Trekkers Inn in Jomsom (where you stay when you return, unless you’ve upgraded to Om’s Home next door), you’ll drive up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni (2900m). The jeep track follows the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. Once in Kagbeni, take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while your guide checks you into restricted Upper Mustang.

Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sayka Gompa, 800 years old. We’ll also wander past the ancient, crumbing, 100-room King’s Palace. At the police check post at the north end of the village where a sign reads ‘Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point’. You can hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint to enjoy the fantastic views over the patchwork of fields in Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligiri.

Back in the jeeps, continue the drive above the Kali Gandaki on the plateau above the riverbed, all the time with magnificent vistas. You will drive north past the red, white, and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m), a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat, and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley. Soon past Tangbe, we reach Chhusang (2955m), an interesting Tibetan village with a salt mine two hours up the Nari Khola river valley, past Tetang. The salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of these villages came from this trade.

Across the Kali Gandaki, high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to seventeenth centuries. The historian Gucci believes these caves to have been homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit monks as retreats. Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently, and many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests, and plentiful game to hunt.

Chhusang
Your first lodge stay is in the lively village of Chhusang, at Bhirkuti Guest House. Enjoy the rest of the day to wander up the valley past Tetang with your guide, head out to the caves across the river and explore, or sit in Chhusang and watch the world life unfold in the late afternoon. You have the rest of the day to hike up to Tetang, 15-minutes upriver from camp (generally, sandals for crossing the small Nari Khola) – or you can have your driver drive you to Tetang along the opposite side of the river.

Tetang
Tetang is an endlessly fascinating, fortified village with massive houses pock-marked with old scaffolding holes. The ruins of an ancient, crumbling dzong stand majestically on a crest at the northern end of the village, with several families living in this ancient monument. Years ago, we witnessed a village women’s council arguing over the use and shortage of water, a heated discussion. It is an extremely photographic and timeless village with lively (and funny) inhabitants, which loses the sun before 5 pm. Watch village life unfold in the afternoon, as the animals are brought back to the village. Above Tetang are many multi-hued chortens that mark the entrance to this remote village from the Annapurna side, a long mani wall, green, terraced fields of buckwheat and barley, and the ancient Tetang Dzong and Tetang Monastery. (2 hrs driving) (B, L, D)
Distance: 23.5km driving

Extra Acclimatization Day Lower Mustang | Drive Muktinath Temple Complex, Lupra & Tiri.  Kagbeni 2900m (9512”) (Red House)
An early morning transfer to Pokhara airport for the spectacular 20-minute mountain flight to Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang and the start of our Nepal trek into Upper Mustang. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet, note the panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

You’ll meet your Mustangi guide at the Jomsom airport, and will be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans, and beautiful textiles are woven by handlooms in the traditional style, readily available for sale. (I have to keep this description as we got such a good laugh out of it in 2022, greeted by the sound (and smells) of tractors, buses and jeeps!). After breakfast in Jomsom, you’ll drive up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni to begin your Himalayan journey. . The village of Tiri Gaon is set on the west bank of the river, part of Lower Mustang, and you have plenty of time to take a short detour to visit this remote village. The road follows a road above the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed and provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif.Visit Muktinath and Bon-pa Lubra village. After breakfast, you’ll drive north to Muktinath, where you have plenty of time to soak up the atmosphere of this Hindu and Buddhist temple complex. The drive up to Muktinath takes you past traditional villages, a patchwork of fields, Buddhist monasteries, and the ponds of Lower Mustang.

Muktinath Complex 3900m (12,792′)
Spend a few hours visiting the Muktinath Temple Complex with the Nepali and Indian pilgrims, and the many saffron-clad saddhus. Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows’ heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai Buddhist temple with a perpetual spouting flame, and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. Descending the 300-something steps that you walked up, you will pass through Ranipauwa where there is lots of local shopping, and yak tails to adorn your horses or dust your house are also sold.

On the way back to Kagbeni, you’ll take a left turn, driving about 1 km up the intersecting riverbed, and visit little-visited Lubra, Mustang’s renown Bon-po village. “The people of Lubra, who believe the village was founded in the late 12th century, have preserved their traditional way of life. A village of just fourteen families, Lubra is one of the few fully Bon villages in Nepal. According to local legend, the Bon Lama Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen came from Tibet via Dolpo and subdued the unruly local spirits, allowing the area to become suitable for human settlement. He planted a walnut tree as a divination to determine whether a village would flourish there. The ancient, gnarled walnut tree survives to this day.

Once tamed, the most powerful spirit among them hollowed out a sunny meditation cave on the hillside opposite the Panda Khola from modern-day Lubra as an offering to Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen, so he would have a suitable place for his practice. The name ‘Lubra’ refers to uniquely textured cliffs on that side of the Panda Khola, which look like snakeskin, spread out and frozen in time on the rock face. Serpentine naga spirits are known as ‘lu’ in the local Mustangi dialect of Tibetan, and ‘bra’ (also pronounced ‘dak’), means rock cliffs.

Traditionally, the people of Lubra built their houses with combined techniques of stacked foundation stones and rammed earth walls, topped with earthen roofs. As in other Baragaon and Thakali villages, they plaster the outer walls with red and white clay for decoration, and store firewood on the top edges of their flat roofs. Lubra belongs to one of the nineteen villages of the Baragaon region of Lower Mustang, which is commonly misunderstood to mean the “twelve villages” that lie above Jomsom and below Lo Manthang (now referred to as Upper Mustang). Baragaon is a Nepali mispronunciation of the Mustangi word Bar Gun, which means “the area in between,” referring to the region sandwiched between Lo Manthang above and the Thak Khola Valley below.

As all over the Himalayas, climate change has altered the water cycle, and overgrazing on the slopes above the Panda Khola has reduced the capacity of the mountainside to retain water, resulting in the loss of top soil due to erosion and more intense higher-level flooding. In the past five years or so, glacial runoff has been increasing rapidly, eating away at agricultural fields along the river bed. Nowadays, during flash floods, the river violently carves away at the banks below the village, causing field edges to be lost to the torrent. During the summer monsoon of 2017, dozens of square meters of farmland were washed away, along with a 70-year-old chorten, an important local religious monument.

Recently, the families of Lubra organized a community homestay project called Mustang Bon Homestay Village, to support the preservation of the unique culture and traditions of Mustang, which are slowly being lost due to the pressures of modernization and emigration abroad. By offering visitors homestay accommodations in the village, the community hopes to create an economic incentive for young entrepreneurs to both remain in the village and maintain local cultural and agricultural practices by involving visitors in unique local experiences. Examples of such experiences include participating in local dancing, mask dancing, cultural songs, and learning alongside traditional agricultural practices, which include planting and harvesting buckwheat, barley, maize, millet, potatoes, and other vegetables, kidney beans, fruit trees such as apricots, walnuts, and apples, and animal husbandry with goats, horses, cows, sheep, chickens, and dzo, the common cross between a male yak and cow, which is more suited to the altitude and climate.

In the center of Lubra village stands Yungdung Phuntsok Ling, an ancient Bon monastery with unique wall paintings and statues, where a five-day masked dancing festival occurs every September or October, depending on the lunar calendar. There are other Bon monasteries in Lower Mustang, such as in Kobang and Naurikot, but none are maintained in the ancient traditional way of hereditary priesthood such as in Lubra, where the eldest son of every family must strictly perform ritual duties and participate in prayers on auspicious days throughout the year. Due to this system, the local traditions have been well maintained in a way that is uncommon in the modern Himalayas.

When visiting Lubra, one should make time to sit in the small Bon temple on the mountainside above the village, called Gon Phuk, which means “winter cave.” It is the site of one of the natural meditation caves where the founder of Lubra village spend many years in meditation retreat, which was later developed into a temple. From the temple, one can climb to see ancient meditation caves on the rock cliffs above the village, which are seldom visited.. – Inside, Himalaya. “Lubra, the Hidden Bon Village of Lower Mustang” (https://www.insidehimalayas.com/lubra-hidden-bon-village-lower-mustang/)

Take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while your guie checks you into the restricted Upper Mustang region of Nepal, bordering Tibet. Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley, and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sakya Gonpa (monastery), 800 years old. Wander past the ancient, crumbling, 100-room King’s Palace, and hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint at the end of town to enjoy the fantastic views Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligiri. Your lodge, Red House, is a wonderful traditionally styled but boutique hotel in the heart of Muktinath, with big windows and lots of Mustangi light! (B, L, D)
3 hour driving + extra sightseeing time

Day 5 – Drive Samar & Geling or Tamagaon 3700m (12,136′) | Cross Dajori La 3610m (11,845′) & Shyangboche La 3825m (12,495′) | Trek Chungsi Caves & Cross Chungsi La 3810m (12,497’)
A bit of driving during our trekking day to maximize your time in Upper Mustang and keep from hiking on jeep roads, and also some epic hiking. Leaving Chhusang, you’ll pass the village archery field and apple orchards at the northern end of town and drive along the rocky Kali Gandaki riverbed, where people search for saligrams from the Jurassic period (160 million years old), fossils embedded in the sediment of the seafloor. You’ll cross the river just below a naturally formed tunnel (from a rock-fall) through which the Kali Gandaki flows. Look above the bridge for views of some of the ancient caves explored in the Peter Athens National Geographic documentaries. The caves are all empty, assumed to be mediation caves, and believed to be haunted by the spirit or zombie of the ‘Chhuksang woman’. Two of the National Geographic explorers were almost fatally injured while exploring these caves.

Drive up the rocky hillside to the village of Tsaile (3060m) just above us on the plateau, a lively village with extensive wheat and barley fields. The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’, which date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion, do what they look like they might do: capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household. You will also see women wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral, and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks. 

Next on the jeep safari, the winding ascent up to the Dajori La on a breathtaking trail meandering its way towards Samar. We drive past the long suspension bridge to the Gurung, Bon-po village of Ghyakar, with its pink flowering apricot orchards (the seeds brought over from Ladakh), the canyon becoming deeper and more dramatic as we ascend to the Dajori La pass (3600m), marked by rock cairns. Lovely Samar (3605m), a green village with poplar groves and flat-roofed houses, was formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet. There is a vertical Tibetan flag (tarchok) on every rooftop, erected for every member of the village. You might stop for a cup of tea at The Annapurna Lodge, one of our favorite lodges owned by good friend Namygal Gurung, the headman of the village (until 2022), and his wife. His brother Karma used to be our horseman, later became one of our guides and is now living in New York City.  The Kamzang Fund also sponsors Tenzing Doma, a lovely girl from Samar, who’s parents live in their traditional home on the right of the long mani wall. Ask your guide to visit them!

Tsaile 3060m (10,036”)
You’ll drive up the rocky hillside to the village of Tsaile (3060m) just above us on the plateau, a lively village with extensive wheat and barley fields. The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’, which date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion, do what they look like they might do: capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household. You will also see women wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral, and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks.

Samar 3600m (11,808′)
Next on your jeep safari, the winding ascent up to the Dajori La on a breathtaking trail meandering its way towards Samar. You’ll drive past the long suspension bridge to the Gurung, Bon-po village of Ghyakar, with its pink flowering apricot orchards (the seeds brought over from Ladakh), the canyon becoming deeper and more dramatic as we ascend to the Dajori La pass, marked by rock cairns. Lovely Samar (3605m), a green village with poplar groves and flat-roofed houses, was formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet. There is a vertical Tibetan flag (tarchok) on every rooftop, erected for every member of the village. You might stop for a cup of tea at The Annapurna Lodge, one of our favorite lodges owned by good friend Namygal Gurung, the headman of the village (until 2022) and his lovely wife. His brother Karma used to be our horseman, later became one of our guides and is now living in New York City. The Kamzang Fund also sponsors Tenzing Doma, a lovely girl from Samar, and you could stop by to see her parents in their traditional home on the right of the long mani wall.

The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’, which date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion, do what they look like they might do: capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household. You will also see women wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral, and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks.

Trek Chungsi Caves | Cross Chungsi La 3810m (12,497′)
Passing through the cluster of traditional houses and mani walls of Samar, exit through the ‘kane’ chorten, cleansing yourselves as you pass through, and descend steeply on a switchbacking trail to the Samarkyung Khola. Cross on a new suspension bridge, after which you have another drop into the next valley, the Jhuwa Khola, and another climb out. After a break at the plateau, take the right fork and trek past a small doska (seasonal herding settlement, kharka in Nepali), and continue to climb and contour for a short time to the Chungsi La (3810m), about 350 meters of climbing. From the cairns at the top of the pass you are treated to spectacular views down into the deep canyon beyond us, and back over the Annapurnas.

Switchbacking steeply downhill, you drop into this incredible, vast canyon, with wonderful, expansive views as we hike. High above the Kali Gandaki, which snakes its way through the canyons far, far below, the trail descends steeply, eventually rounding the corner just past large look-out rocks. It doesn’t take long to round the corner and reach the intersection to the sacred Buddhist Chungsi Caves, about 500 meters below the pass. Keep an eye out for blue sheep, as well as snow leopard prints and markings in this valley. The Chungsi Caves (3425m), about 250 steps uphill, are one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s meditation caves. Inside are fantastic ‘rangjung’ or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens, ‘Tara’s terraced fields’ and other Buddhist statues. A previous caretaker was a monk from Tibet who had been living in the cave for 2+ years many years ago, and the newer caretaker is also a Tibetan monk. (See page 144, Tucci).

Back down the steps, you meet the main trail and begin to hike up through the canyon, looking for the many nests of Himalayan griffins high up in the cliff-faces noticeable from the white below them (guano, vulture droppings) as well as these majestic birds, with their three-meter wingspans, circling high above.

Drive Chungsi Caves | Cross Bhene La 3840m & Yamda La 3985m
Those wanting to drive much of the route to the Chungsi Caves will stay in the jeeps and continue on the switchbacking road over the Bhena La (3840m) and the Yamda La (3985m), staying at relatively the same altitude between passes. Once over second pass, the jeep takes a sharp right and continues down the jeep trail to the northern side of the Chungsi Caves trail. You’ll get out of the jeep and hike along the trail for about 10 minutes before climbing the many steps to the cave. (see above)

Drive Geling 3565m (12,136′) | Cross Shyangboche La 3825m (12,546′) (Gunga Lodge)
You meet your jeeps and drive to the small hamlet of Shyangboche (3765m), originally a seasonal kharka named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan), passing a small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats; watch out for the guard dogs. You’ll stop for lunch at the first Tibetan lodge on the left, enjoying spectacular Annapurna views from the slate deck.After lunch, a very short drive to the Shyangboche La (3825m), just 50 meters above the village. We’ll stop for photos of the dramatic Himalayan vista, including Annapurna I, Niligiri and the peaks north bordering Tibet.

Descend gradually on the new road, crossing a small stream and ascending on the eastern road leading to Geling. The upper section of road passes by the small hamlet of Tamagaon (3700m), where our Kamzang Journeys camping groups camp at The New Tenzin Hotel & Restaurant, run by a lovely older couple Sherap Tenzin and his wife Dolma, and recently their son and daughter-in-law with a new baby. Only 2 families remain in the tiny hamlet of Tamagaon, the remaining 3 families having moved to Pokhara or Kathmandu.

You’ll continue to drive to lovely, green Geling where you’ll stay a a lodge for the evening, and enjoy some traditional Mustangi fare. Geling is a picturesque village always bustling with local life, the white-washed Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields. Above Geling is the newly renovated brick-red Geling Gompa, its protector chapel above, and ancient meditation caves in the eroded cliffs, a fascinating and atmospheric monastery. Across the road to the west are the ruins of an old ‘dzong’ (or fortress, also called ‘khar’ in Tibetan) and ani-gompa (nunnery).

Syangboche 3765m (12,349′) & Geling 3565m (12,136′)
You’ll drive to the small hamlet of Shyangboche (3765m), originally a seasonal kharka named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan), passing a small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats; watch out for the guard dogs. Stop for lunch in Syangboche, at the first Tibetan lodge on the left, enjoying spectacular Annapurna views from the slate deck. After lunch, a very short drive to the Shyangboche La (3825m), just 50 meters above the village where you’ll stop for photos of the dramatic Himalayan vista, including Annapurna I, Niligiri and the peaks north bordering Tibet. After lunch, descend gradually on the new road, crossing a small stream and ascending on the eastern road to Geling, a picturesque village always bustling with local life, the white-washed Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields. Above Geling is the newly renovated brick-red Geling Gompa, its protector chapel above, and ancient meditation caves in the eroded cliffs, a fascinating and atmospheric monastery. Across the road to the west are the ruins of an old ‘dzong’ (or fortress, also called ‘khar’ in Tibetan) and ani-gompa (nunnery). In Geling, you will stay for the night in Kunga Hotel, one of Mustang’s traditional-style lodges. (B, L, D)

Day 6 – Trek Dhakmar 3785m (12,420′) | Cross Karki La 4026m (13,205′) & Ghemi La 3520m (11,550′) 
Staying high out of Geling, follow a small trail that contours around the arid hillsides, often following snow leopard tracks. Tibetan partridges chortle as they scurry away. You’ll ascend gradually to reach the Karki La (4026m), from where you drop down to the jeep track, cross the road, and connect with the track to the Ghemi La. Descend steeply down to Ghemi (3750m), built along the steep edges of the cliff as are many fortified villages in Mustang. There are ruins of an old fortress somewhere in Ghemi, largely abandoned until the Khampa fighters set up a magar (war camp) here and brought new life and wealth to the village. Wander a bit through this interesting village, passing the mani walls and prayer wheels, perhaps finding the key-keeper to open Ghemi Gompa. Descending to the sparkling, green river, stop for an idyllic rest on rounded river rocks. Afterward, cross the river on a smaller, wooden bridge adorned with prayer flags (and Buddhist texts in 2022) and climb for about half an hour to a small pass overlooking the massive chorten complex (see below) as well as Ghemi and Dhakmar valleys, a spectacular vantage point which takes us down to the left of Dhakmar.

Continue to hike through this scenic, green valley, stopping occasionally for passing herds of sheep and goats, and soon arriving at the lively, sprawling village of Dhakmar, dominated by a dramatic, red canyon wall with many ancient cave dwellings. Following the small stream through the lower part of the village, green with old willows and more recently planted poplars, you’ll pass by the ancient king’s house on the right, and look across the stream to the old Dhakmar Gonpa. 

The red cliffs, which house Himalayan griffins and lammergeyers as well as incredible cave complexes, are fantastic! Get out and explore Dhakmar, where villagers are threshing and sorting flax seed, poplars are cut and drying in fields, and wander under the dramatic red cliffs for the rest of the afternoon. One of the ancient cliff caves, striped with ochre and white, has a narrow access trail so it’s possible to get inside. The monastery was recently renovated for a visit from Sakya Rimpoche in 2018. You’ll spend the night at a more basic lodge tonight, with the chance to experience some real Mustangi culture and have a traditional meal. (6½ hrs) (B, L, D)

‘Dhakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures illustrate a well-known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rimpoche eviscerated a huge demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red and purple-grey.’ –  Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door

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Optional Drive Ghemi & Dhakmar 3785m (12,420′) | Cross Syangboche La 3825m (12,550′) & Nyi La 4010m (13,155′) | via Chortens & Mani Wall
The jeep roads meet near the small hamlet of Chhunggar (3750m) and Zaite (3480m), and the large, colorfully striped chorten, surrounded by weatherworn granite boulders. We drive up the switch-backing road to the Nyi La (4010m) from where we’ll have Himalayan panoramas including Annapurna l and Niligiri. More of Upper Mustang opens up in front of us, including the new jeep road snaking its way to Tibet.

After exploring Ghemi, we take a small, rocky trail following a willow-lined stream down to a bridge crossing the Tangmar Chu. We’ll cross the bridge and climb a steep, dusty hill. The trail looks across the valley to ochre, blue and steel-grey cliffs, and leads us past tri-colored chortens and perhaps the longest and most spectacular mani wall in Mustang, behind which is the hospital. Looming ahead is a cluster of ancient chortens, some of the most massive in the Tibetan world, backed by dramatic, sculpted cliff-faces and said to be 1500 years old (the same as Lo Gekar); an awesome sight! (+$)

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Day 7 – Trek Tsarang 3570m (11,710′) | Cross Cross Choku La 4298m or Dhakmar La 3950m | Visit Lo Gekar via Choku La
From Dhakmar, trek up through the fluted hoodoos and craggy spires just north of the village, perhaps a 45-minute climb to reach the plateau about 200 meters above, below the Mui La. The views looking down through the canyons to Dhakmar are breathtaking. From the plateau it’s an easy hour walk down the ridge to the valley, where you will follow the Tsarang Khola, with scenic Marang across the river. Passing through the patchwork of fields, you will soon reach the fortified village of Tsarang, meaning ‘cock’s crest’, one of Mustang’s ancient capitals perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon. Walk between high walls to the south of the village, green with poplar and willow trees, and stop to gaze at Tsarang Gompa and its ruins, impressively built on a crag of rock.

Tsarang is a large village of 83 houses (population 400) built on top of the Tsarang Khola canyon, one of the later capitals of the Kingdom of Lo in the 14th century. Stone walls separate the houses and form tunnel-like paths, a new irrigation ditch lines the main street, and willow groves turn the village green. Tsarang bustles with its many shops, its own hydro-electric plant and quite a few guest houses and visitors. It is dominated by the massive, crumbling five-story Tsarang Dzong, a Tibetan-styled fortified palace built in 1378 (after the palace at Lo Manthang), and the large, ochre-hued Tsarang Gompa, built in 1385, of the Sakya sect and with the greatest library in Lo (the palace also has a great library). The dzong and palace were both built by Ame Pal and the other of the ‘Three Sangpos’. The palace has a wonderful, old prayer room with a gold-printed prayer book and a fascinating array of statues, thankas and large Buddha paintings that the resident lama will show you, and the withered 500-year-old hand of the master architect of the palace. Tsarang Gompa is adorned with fantastic 15th century frescos on the assembly hall walls; don’t miss the older prayer room in back, once an ‘ani gompa’, or nunnery. Elaborate sand mandalas are created at the gompa at festival time, and then ceremonially deposited into the river at the festival’s end. Ekai Kawaguchi stayed nine months here in 1899, and Michel Peissel spent time with the Abbot of Tsarang, the king’s brother (the present king’s father) during his time in Mustang.

You’ll stay at Maya’s Guest House or you can opt to upgrade to Maya’s Inn, owned and run by Maya and brother Tsewang Bista, cousins of the King, with the Palace and Gompa visible in the near distance. Take the chance to have a cup of traditional salt-butter tea in the kitchen with Maya and the staff of the inn, Enjoy an afternoon walk through the maze of paths to the dzong and friendly gompa before dinner, and stop in at one of the many shops for a look. Many of the wealthier homes here have family shrines which you might be lucky enough to be invited to see. The local women will be herding their sheep through the narrow, walled paths at dusk as the snow pigeons circle, shimmering, under the setting sun.

TREK NOTE | If you are in need of a more restful day, it’s possible to trek up the trail which traverses the road and leads to the Tsarang La (3870m), and then down on the road to Tsarang. (4 hrs) (B, L, D)

HOTEL UPGRADE TSARANG | Maya’s Inn (+$$)

Day 8 – Trek Lo Manthang 3820m (12,533′) | Visit Jampa, Thubchen & Chhoede Buddhist Monasteries
Leaving Tsarang, cross the wide river gully which heads to Lo Gekar (you’ll visit this on the way back), and trek for about two hours past the ruins of ancient fortresses and monasteries, stopping at the massive, newly renovated chorten, towards the walls surrounding Lo Manthang. Horses roam freely amongst the the crumbling walls and fields that surround Lo. After crossing the small Lo La pass, you will enter Lo Manthang by crossing a small bridge and passing through the outer maze of walls. Finally, the fabled city of Lo Manthang!

Your guide will take you to Pema Bista’s Lotus Inn, or Tsewang Bista’s Lo Manthang Guest House, both lovely, traditional lodges owned by local Lo Manthang-pa. Start exploring the maze-like alleyways of this fascinating village. Be prepared for the onslaught of tourism as Lo Manthang is not as pristine as it used to be, but it’s just as mystical in the golden, yellow light as the local men bring their sheep and horses inside the city gates for the night. We recommend visiting Pema or Tsewang’s wonderful shops, treasure chests of antiques and textiles. You will have plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan peaks bordering Tibet.

To the north of Lo Manthang, in the direction of Tibet and at the bottom of the Namgyal valley, are the impressive ruins of Khochoe Dzong, meaning ‘white sheep dzong’, Ame Pal’s original palace dzong built in 1440. The other ruins, slightly lower, was a monastery of a similar period. Both catch incredible morning and evening light, very photogenic sights, and at least the lower ruins are accessible from the Namgyal Tingger vallley.

Lo Manthang 3820m (12,533′)
After lunch, start to explore the maze-like alleyways of this fascinating village. Be prepared for the onslaught of tourism as Lo Manthang is not as pristine as it used to be, but it’s just as mystical in the golden, yellow light as the local men bring their sheep and horses inside the city gates for the night. Horses roam freely amongst the the crumbling walls and fields that surround Lo. We recommend visiting Pema Bista or Tsewang Bista’s wonderful shops, treasure chests of antiques and textiles. You will have plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan peaks bordering Tibet.

Spend the rest of the day visiting the famous monasteries, wandering the labyrinthine alleyways of Lo Manthang, shopping for Tibetan and Mustangi artifacts and doing a ‘kora’ of the large, walled complex. There are several amchis that run Tibetan herbal medicine clinics in town, two schools, a growing number of coffee shops, plenty local shops selling goods from Tibet along with the increasing number of souvenir, thanka and antique shops. (They do take credit cards!) And do visit the wonderful Royal Mustang Resort just outside the city walls, owned and operated by Jigme Bista-La, the ruling King of Lo Manthang and his family. (B, L, D)

HOTEL UPGRADE LO MANTHANG | Royal Mustang Resort (owned and operated by the Jigme-La, the King of Mustang (+$$$)

History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital and its inhabitants called Lobas. Legend has it that the palace in Lo Manthang was constructed after Ame Pal send a godess to find an auspicious spot; she landed at the site of the present (crumbling) palace. The summer palace at Tingger was built later, and was used mostly be the earlier kings in the summer. Later kings spent their summers in Lo Manthang and their winters in Kathmandu.

Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings which we’ll have a chance to visit. There are even yeti (known here as mehti) prints rumored to be found.

Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (Abbot) were allowed to ride. All others must walk, to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, still resides at his four-storied palace inside the city walls; that is, when he’s not in Kathmandu. He is an avid horseman, and keeps his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, the king plays a somewhat ceremonial role although he is well loved and respected throughout Mustang. The present king is the 25th descendent of Ame Pal.

There are four major temples within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang, the 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang (the oldest gompa, built in 1387, with the striking 50 foot ‘Jampa’ (Future) Buddha, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago), 15th century Thubchen Gompa (Great Assembly hall, pillars 30 feet high, the second oldest gompa with fantastic murals in the Dukhang), Chhoede Gompa (where the Kempo lives, with a monastic school) and Choprang Gompa. There is also the Raja’s Palace, home to the present King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (who is from an aristocratic Lhasa family) and an interesting maze of a village to explore. There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry.

Lo Manthang Tiji Festival (Buddhist Lama Dance)
The Tiji festival, held in the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang, is the most auspicious of Upper Mustang’s colorful lama (cham) dances and prayer chants. The festival is a colorful and dramatic celebration of good presiding over evil, the story of Dorje Jono defeating a demon that was destroying the Kingdom of Mustang by taking its precious water source and spreading disease. The lunar Tiji Festival, started in the 17^th century, was originally performed at the Royal Palace but is now held at the larger Choede Monastery which has a monastic community of thawas (young monks), monks and lamas.

Kamzang Journeys goes to Lo Manthang for this incredibly interesting and photographic festival during some of our ‘Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Camping Treks’, run every Spring in Nepal.

Day 9 – Lo Manthang | Explore Chhoser Valley & Jhong Caves (Jeep) | Optional Visit Rinchin Ling &/or Drakphuk Konchok Ling Caves (+$)
Lots of incredible options for today. You can visit the Chhoser valley on foot, by jeep (+$ jeep trip) or by horseback (+$ horse trip, market price). You can also opt to add a few extra days into your trip before arriving in Nepal, as there are so many fabulous options in and around Lo Manthang and the Chhoser Valley. 

CAVES DISCLAIMER | Visiting the sky caves can also be dangerous as trails crumble away, and although the guide for Kamzang Journeys only take travelers to the caves that we deem safe, you are ultimately responsible for the decision to climb into these caves. It is not required.

HORSE DISCLAIMER | Horses are a good way to visit both of these valleys as Mustang is a region famous for its horses, but even on horseback it will be a long day. We take no responsibility for anything that may happen on a horse, and horses must be hired from the horse owners, not from Kamzang Journeys. We will help with the arrangements if you want to do a day of horseback riding in Mustang, but bear no responsibility.

Chhoser Valley | Nyphu & Garphu Gompas & Jhong Cave Complex (Jeep, Hike or Horseback)
Leaving Lo Manthang, descend past the brick-red Chamba Gompa at the corner of Lo Manthang to the lower cast community living along the willows of the riverbed, climbing out along the jeep road which you follow for about an hour. You will hike along the wide road, passing the ruins of the original Choede Gompa, passing through crumbling canyons, dry gullies, past ruined fortresses and the remains of ancient monasteries, relics of a more prosperous time past. Behind, leaving Lo, are the snow-peaks bordering Tibet, the ruins of the once-imposing Lo Dzong.

The Chosar valley was the main trading route with Tibet and Lhasa, and is peppered with the ruins of old fortresses guarding this strategic valley. Just north of this valley, over the border in Tibet, Lhakpa and I met a Tibetan man who still dealt in the trade of rare animal skins with Mustangi traders, a risky and of forbidden endeavor. It will be interesting to see if we can find out anything of this trade on the Nepal side of the border.

Crossing a bridge across intersecting stream on the main road, head right, cross the stream on a wooden bridge, and take the trail heading towards our favorite troglodyte village, hiking through lovely, textured cultivated regions. Taking a bit of time to explore this interesting cave village, perhaps visiting a cave-house, you will hike for another 20 minutes or so before we see the Jhong Caves valley. Passing Nyphu Gompa to the left, hike for about 15 minutes to the incredible cave-dwelling complex of Jhong, which you negotiate by ladders and through small tunnels (bring a headlamp), very interesting and reputed to be 2500 years old. In front, a range of spectacular snow-peaks marks the border with Tibet, and around us gurgling streams and green meadows line the trail.

After the Jhong caves, return to visit the Sakya Ngorpa sect Nyphu Gompa (3760m) ahead, with its Lo Khenchen cave (Lo Khenchen was an early monk who came from Tsarang and meditated in this cave) and some older meditation caves which were destroyed in the earthquake. The cave monastery is home to Khenpo Samdup, an important lama. Nyphu Gompa has 30 resident monks and lamas and 40 thawas, and is built directly into the rock face. A Sakya Rimpcoche came in 2001 and built the new school. just below the gompa. The students spend 7 months in Mustang, and 5 months in Pokhara during the winter months. The ruins across the mostly dry riverbed are an old monastery which none of the villagers seem to know much about. ‘Nyphu had all the elements one could wish in a mysterious sacred retreat, possessing all the snugness of an underground hive and the grandeur of an eagle’s nest.’ –  Mustang; A Lost Tibetan Kingdom – Michel Peissel

Trek through small lanes, passing houses with red posts and often young Mustangi women weaving in the courtyards. Looking up to more eroded cave complexes, we soon round the corner and trek past a large chorten to reach the interesting Garphu Gompa on the east banks of the Mustang Khola. Garphu, built in the 9^th century, is the second cave gompa (the first is Nyphu), belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is associated with Guru Rimpoche. The furthest monastery in this valley is Nyamdo Gompa which we may have time to visit later in the afternoon, depending on where we’re camped. High up in this valley, between the Jhong Caves and Rinchin Ling, many ruins are perched high up on craggy cliffsides, in impossible locations. Locals say they are only houses, but we imagine that several of them were dzongs, gompas or lookouts. Return to Lo Manthang via the dirt jeep road. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)

Extra Day Lo Manthang | Day Hike Namgyal & Tingger Valley
Before booking this Mustang trek, you have the opportunity to spend extra days in Lo Manthang, worth every day in the magical capital!

Enjoy a hike through the Namgyal and Tingger valleys, a walk that will take a good part of the day but is worth the effort. Leaving Lo Monthang behind the main gate and passing through the willow-lined, lower caste villages below, climb up to Namgyal Gompa (the Monastery of Victory), set spectacularly on top of a desolate ridge and the newest and most active gompa in Lo. The young novices studying here are from all reaches of the Tibetan Buddhist world. The village of Namgyal spreads out past the Gompa, worth a quick wander. Continuing north on the road and passing several ruins of ancient, crumbling monasteries we soon reach the old capital of Thingger (4025m) where the king still has his small summer palace, now not in top condition. The small village gompa has been newly renovated, and it’s an interesting and colorful village to explore.

There are many ancient ruins surrounding the village, some gompas and others old fortresses. Once on the opposite side of the winding alleyways, continue to hike north for about half an hour to Kimaling (4030m), just across a long suspension bridge. We’ve had some lovely experiences with the local villagers at Kimaling, who don’t see very many trekkers. You’ll find them weaving, washing textiles and herding their sheep and goats. We might stop for salt-butter tea at a new friend’s small homestay (home) near the local lhakang (temple). Kimaling Gompa is below the village, on the way out as you head towards Phuwa and its gompa on the way down towards Lo. There are tremendous views of Namgyal Gompa backed by snow-peaks behind us as we wander up the valley, and white peaks in front of us bordering Tibet. The return route heads straight down the valley to Phuwa village and eventually back to Lo Manthang.

OPTIONAL EXTRA DAY LO MANTHANG | Day Hike Namgyal & Thinggar Valley ($175)

Extra Day Lo Manthang | Sky Caves Trip | Rinchin Ling or Drakphuk Konchok Ling Caves
Include an extra day in your itinerary to visit the newly discovered Rinchin Ling cave complex, which requires a jeep, hiking up a steep hillside and entering the caves by a series of roped-together ladders carried up by local villagers for a fee. Better to keep the details of these caves a bit quiet. There is also an option to visit the Drakphuk Konchok Ling cave if the trail is in good condition. This little visited cave requires a seriously exposed hike along steep sided ridges, and a drop down using a rope, and is located north of the Chosar Cave complex. Both of these options probably require a jeep leaving Lo Manthang to get you nearer to the caves.

“The Ritseling Cave is located in Upper Mustang on a peak West of the Konchog Ling Cave. Prior to the last few years it appears as though no one has entered the small cave complex in several hundred years. It has an assortment of murals with a large mandala close to the entrance along with several Buddha figures. Towards the back of the cave there is a mural depicting narrative scenes possibly of one of the occupants of the cave and his travels through Tibet and especially to Lhasa. Various protector deities are found along with a stunning image – large in size – of the nine faced, eighteen armed Garuda. The only other image of this Garuda in a Buddhist context is found in Phyang Monastery, Ladakh, India.” Excerpt from Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art

OPTIONAL EXTRA DAY LO MANTHANG | Visit Rinchin Ling or Drakphuk Konchok Ling Cave ($250)

Extra Day Lo Manthang | Nomads Day Trip West Nomad Camp 4280m
An option to visit the beautiful, green nomadic encampment, our ‘last nomads of Mustang’ from Lo Manthang. The scenic valley is dotted with nomadic tents of yak-hair, yaks, herds of sheep and goats, piles of yak dung and nomads. Several families live in this valley in their tents, and a few more in the valley over the next ridge. Their encampment is idyllic, set right next to a clear stream on a grassy, flat plateau looking down-valley over Himalayan peaks. Visit the lively doksa in the afternoon, perhaps being invited for a steaming cup of salt-butter tea and dried cheese. This is one of the last nomadic settlements in all of Nepal, a rare chance to see how real Tibetan nomads exist. It is quite high and gets cold in the late afternoons. Shopping for textiles is always an option, ask your guide to translate for you, and do have a look (in any case) at the hand-spun, hand-dyed and hand-woven textiles!

OPTIONAL EXTRA DAY LO MANTHANG | Day Jeep Trip West Nomad Camp ($225)

Day 10 – Trek Yara 3610m
Leaving Lo Manthang, make the short descent to the Lo La pass, descend on the main road, and then take a sharp left turn at a nearby signpost, dropping steeply into a dramatic canyon, and descending for several hours to the Kali Gandaki River bottom. An exciting and extremely photographic descent! You reach Dhi village once at the valley bottom, and pass through the village before crossing a bridge and continuing to trek for another hour to Yara, where you will stay for the night at Saribung Guest House, in the middle section of Yara, a bustling village full of Mustangi life.

Have a walk above the village in the afternoon, lovely with the sun shining through the willow leaves which brighten the village. The Kamzang Fund sponsors a young girl from Yara, Tsering Kondo, for her hearing impairment, and her sister Pasang Lhamo for school. You might be able to visit these lovely girls (or at least Tsering Kondo) and their parents at the top of Yara There is a gompa and school in the lower reaches of the village for those wanting a short walk, and you might be treated to a cultural dance in the evening, so be ready for a lively Mustangi party! (B, L, D)

Day 11 – Yara | Visit Ghara, Luri Gompa & Tashi Kabum
You have a higher route option via the lovely Ghara village, or a lower option via the riverbed and trail just below Ghara. Ghara is a traditional, less-visited village surrounded by a patchwork of terraced fields of barley, past a grove of sacred junipers, and past the ruins of an old village and gonpa and Buddhist chortens, with wonderful views back towards, Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. Ahead, you’ll spot the impressive red and white striped Luri Gonpa, a highlight of the Upper Mustang trek …

The fabled Druk-pa Luri Gompa and its complex of Tibetan Buddhist caves, some of which are accessible others now ‘closed’ forever, are one of the highlights of Upper Mustang. One of the older Kings of Lo married a Bhutanese princess, thus the Druk-pa influence. The main Luri Gompa is situated down near the riverbed; the teacher, kids in tow, will lead on a crumbling trail us up to the upper prayer-room and the fifteenth century ‘Kabum Stupa’, made of highly polished stucco and painted with intricately detailed Newari-styled Buddhist frescos of the Kagyupa saints Tilopa, Naropa and Marpa. Historians estimate them to be from the 13th or 14th century, and linked to the Tashi Kumbum caves, one of a group of connected cave dwellings throughout this particular region. Unfortunately, or fortunately, most have been rendered inaccessible due to the intense erosion in Mustang, so will remain hidden throughout history.

Trekking the short way down to the river, you hike past fantastic, sculpted canyons with the remains of a network of ancient caves, now eroded enough to be inaccessible. You’ll soon reach little visited Tashi Kumbum complex, accessible via a narrow ledge of a trail. Tashi Kumbum is a newly discovered group of six cave dwellings dating from the 15th century, with fantastic Buddhist murals and a large exquisitely painted chorten. Gary McCue, who went there over fifteen years ago, wrote that the approach is very difficult and often dangerous. Your lodge owner’s ex-husband was actually the one who discovered the ancient Tashi Kumbum, and then went there with Gary McCue.  (5 hrs) (B, L, D)

Day 12 – Trek Tsarang 3570m | Visit Tsarang Monastery & Palace | Option to Visit Lo Gekar (Ghar Gompa) by Jeep
Trekking back to the Kali Gandaki River, you’ll cross the bridge and hike up the trail to Tsarang, where you will have the afternoon to visit Lo Gekar, ‘Pure Virtue of Joy’, set majestically in the valley just above Tsarang. Lo Ghekar or Ghar Gompa, built in the 8th century, is one of the oldest gompas in Nepal. It belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet as well as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means ‘house gompa’ after the style of architecture, and harbors many exemplary frescoes as well as wonderfully carved and painted mani stones. Surrounding the gompa are massive, block-like chortens of a unique style and strings of colorful prayer flags fluttering in the winds of Mustang.

The story of Lo Gekar (Ghar Gonpa) | Samye Gompa, the oldest gompa in Tibet, was repeatedly destroyed by demons when it was being built. The head lama dreamed that Guru Rimpoche could help with the construction and invited him to the site. The great Guru Rimpoche found demons to be the problem, and suggested that they first build Lo Gekar. Guru Rimpoche killed the demons at the spot that Lo Gekar was soon to be constructed. The long mani wall just south of Dhakmar is said to have arisen from the intestines of the demon, and the red cliffs above Dhakmar the blood of the demon. After Lo Gekar was completed, Samye in eastern Tibet was also successfully built. After a look at the ‘lha-khangs’ or prayer rooms of the gompa, you return down valley to Tsarang for the evening. (B, L, D)

+ Hotel Upgrade Maya’s Inn ($100 Single, $75 Per Person Double)

Day 13 – Drive Jomsom | via Ghemi (Optional Visit Muktinath Temple Complex)
A private 4WD vehicle is waiting at Tsarang to drive you on an exciting, mountain road back to Jomsom! Once in Jomsom, you’ll be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans, and beautiful textiles are woven by hand looms in the traditional style, readily available for sale. Yak tails to adorn your horses or dust your house are also sold. You have the afternoon free to wander, wash and shop. The Mustang group will stay for the night at Trekkers Inn. (B, L, D)

Optional Muktinath Complex Visit
For those wanting to visit the sacred pilgrimage site at Muktinath, it is do-able the same day by hired (or shared) jeep. Drive 30 minutes from Chhungar to the Muktinath complex, and then return via Ranipawa and Jharkot. Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. Note that it’s a long drive from Tsarang, you many not have time for this visit …

+ Muktinath Complex Visit ($65 Jeep)

Day 14 – Fly Pokhara & Kathmandu | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
We’ll be up early again for our mountain flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, flying between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South before landing in balmy Pokhara. Transfer to another plane for the short, scenic flight to Kathmandu, 198 east of Pokhara, flying high above the north-south rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. We pass over terraced villages and green hills with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance. In Kathmandu, you’ll be transferred by Doma Sherpa to the Kathmandu Guest House, where rooms are booked, showers are hot and the garden awaits. Enjoy a last meal and a glass of wine (or two) in Thamel! (B)

NOTE | In the case of flight cancellation out of Jomsom everyone will be responsible for their rooms and meals at Trekkers Inn.

Day 15 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
We send you off to the airport for your flight home, and hope to see you again soon. Namaste! (B)

TRAVEL NOTE | We STRONGLY suggest you add at least one, and perhaps two days in Kathmandu at the end of the trek that allow for flight delays or cancellations leaving Jomsom.

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

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Alternative Trekking Route (No Jeep)
Trek Gyakar 3360m & Samar 3605m | Cross Dajori La 3610m
Leaving Chhusang, cross the small Narsing Khola, and wind your way through the village, passing the archery field and apple orchards. You’ll trek up the rocky Kali Gandaki riverbed, where you might find saligrams from the Jurassic period (160 million years old) embedded in sediment of the sea floor. Cross the Kali Gandaki on a bridge built at a naturally formed tunnel through which the Kali Gandaki flows on to the trail leading to Tsaile (3060 m), which sits above on the plateau.  It’s a very steep but short climb up the rocky gully to Tsaile, a lively village with extensive wheat and barley fields. Look above the bridge for views of some of the ancient caves explored in the Peter Athens National Geographic documentaries. The caves are all empty, assumed to be mediation caves, and believed to be haunted by the spirit or zombie of the ‘Chhuksang woman’. Two of the National Geographic explorers were almost fatally injured while exploring these caves.

The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’ do what the look like they might do, capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household, and date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion. You will also see woman wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains.

Next the ascent up the Dajori La on a breathtaking trail towards Samar. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks. We trek on this slightly precipitous cliff-side trail (partly road, which we leave) past the long suspension bridge to the Gurung village of Ghyakar, the canyon becoming deeper and more dramatic as we ascend. The Dajori La, at 3600 meters, is marked by rock cairns, a 2 ½ – 3 hour trek from Tsaile.

The new trekking route (while the above route is being fixed), an alternative to the trail which is being widened, is to cross the long suspension bridge and trek through Bon-po Gyakar to the pass. The trail is good, a straight forward ascent to the top of the hill, followed by two steep ravines before reaching the Dajori La. Lovely Samar, which means ‘red earth’ in Tibetan, is visible just below us, a 15 minute traverse to a group of three chortens on the ridge above the village. Samar, a green village with lovely poplar groves and flat-roofed houses, was formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet. There is a vertical Tibetan flag, called a tarchok, on every rooftop, erected for every member of the village.

Your lodge is the green Annapurna Guest House, one of our favorite lodges, owned by good friend Namygal Gurung. His brother Karma used to be our horseman, and is now one of our guides. Relax, and enjoy the afternoon and sunset over the Himalayan peaks, still dominated by Niligiri I, in this charming village. Showers are available, and feel free to go into the kitchen for a cup of salt-butter tea. Don’t miss the sunset and sunrise Himalayan views from the deck. (6 hrs) 

Trek Chungsi Caves 3425m & Syangboche 3765m | Cross Chungsi La 3810m
Passing through the cluster of traditional houses and mani walls of Samar, exit through the ‘kane’ chorten and descend steeply on a switchbacking trail to the Samarkyung Khola, after which you have another drop into the next valley, the Jhuwa Khola, and another climb out. At the plateau, take the right fork and trek past a small doska, or seasonal hearding settlement, and continue to climb for a short time to the Chungsi La (3810m), from where you’re treated to spectacular views down into the deep canyon beyond us, and back over the Annapurnas.

Again switchbacking steeply, drop into this incredible, vast canyon, with wonderful, expansive views the entire time. Staying high above the Kali Gandaki, which snakes its way through the canyons far, far below us, the trail descends steeply, eventually rounding the corner just past our large look-out rock. It doesn’t take long to round the corner and reach the intersection to the sacred Buddhist Chungsi Caves, about 500 meters below the pass. Those who are feeling tired should continue on and not climb the many steps to the caves in the middle of the day; the team can form two groups once at the caves.

The Chungsi Caves, about 300 steps up, are one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s meditation caves. Inside are fantastic ‘rangjung’ or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens, ‘Tara’s terraced fields’ and others Buddhist relics. The old caretaker was from Gheling, the new caretaker is a monk from Tibet who has been living in the cave for 2+ years. (See page 144, Tucci)

Back down the steps, continue to head north, climbing back up through the canyon on a widened trail, soon to be a road. En route you can expect to see many nests of Himalayan Griffins high up in the cliff-faces, noticeable from their white below them (vulture droppings), and will see these majestic birds with their three-meter wingspans circling high above us. Ascend to the small hamlet of Shyangboche, originally a seasonal kharka and named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan), passing a small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats. Watch out for dogs. You will stay first Tibetan lodge on the left, with a lovely, green campsite just below the lodge and spectacular Annapurna views at sunset and sunrise! (6 hrs) 

High Route Option | Cross Bhene La 3840m & Yamda La 3985m to Syangboche
There is another slightly shorter and easier route, which entails hiking over the Bhena La (3840m) and the Yamda La (3985m) on a ‘Himalayan flat’ trail, so the ups and downs aren’t so steep and you’ll stay relatively at the same altitude between passes. You miss the Chungsi Caves on this trail unfortunately.

Trek Dhakmar 3765m | Cross Syangboche La 3825m, Nyi La 4010m & Ghemi La 3520m
A very short morning climb to the Shyangboche La (3825m), just 50 meters above the village. Stop for photos of the dramatic Himalayan vista, including Annapurna I, Niligiri and the peaks north bordering Tibet. Look down to the east to the picturesque village of Geling. Above Geling is an old, brick-red gompa and ancient meditation caves in the eroded cliffs, and in the village a new school and white-washed Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields.

Descending gradually on the new road, you will cutting down to a smaller trail which leads over a small stream. Climb to the small hamlet of Tamagaon (3700m) and continue along a lovely trail amongst rounded granite boulders to the small hamlets of Chhunggar (3750m), where there is a large, colorfully striped chorten at each end of the village. While trekking north, passing the small hamlet of Zaite (3480m) on a newly constructed dirt road (there aren’t many, but this short section is unavoidable), you will be treated to more great views of the Himalayan peaks to our south: Thorung Peak, Annapurna l and Tilicho amongst them.

Leaving Zaite, pass the intersecting trail (road) from Geling, a lovely village with an ancient, ochre gompa, a sponsored school and cave complexes.  Climb the trail that intersects the switch-backing road leading to the Nyi La (4010m), a half an hour ascent. From the cairn at the pass you are again treated to Himalayan panoramas including Annapurna I and beautiful Niligiri, as well as the clusters of white-washed villages below.More of Upper Mustang opens up, including the new road snaking its way to the border of Tibet. Descend on the road for a bit, but soon head off on a small trail and continue contouring around hillsides to the Ghemi La, from where there are wonderful views down to the checkered fields and large, beautiful village of Ghemi. Descend steeply down to Ghemi (3750m), built along the steep edges of the cliff as are many fortified villages in Mustang. There are actually the ruins of an old fortress somewhere in Ghemi, which was largely abandoned until the Khampa fighters set up a magar (war camp) here and brought new life and wealth to the village. Your guide will take you for a wander through this interesting village, passing the mani walls and prayer wheels, perhaps finding the key-keeper to open the Ghemi Gompa.

Afterward lunch in Ghemi, take the small, rocky trail following a willow lined stream down to a bridge crossing the Tangmar Chu. Cross the bridge and climb a steep, dusty hill. The trail looks across the valley to ochre, blue and steel-grey cliffs, and leads past tri-colored chortens and perhaps the longest and most spectacular mani wall in Mustang, behind which is the hospital. Looming ahead is a cluster of ancient chortens, some of the most massive in the Tibetan world, backed by dramatic, sculpted cliff-faces and said to be 1500 years old (the same as Lo Gekar); an awesome sight!

Continue hiking through a scenic, green valley, stopping occasionally for passing herds of sheep and goats, soon arriving at the lively, sprawling village of Dhakmar, dominated by a dramatic, red canyon wall with many ancient cave dwellings. Following the small stream through the lower part of the village, green with old willows and more recently planted poplars, and look across the stream to old gompa. The red cliffs, which house Himalayan Griffins and Lammergeyers, are fantastic, and you will stay for the night in a scenic lodge to enjoy the awe-inspiring views! Get out and explore Dhakmar, look out for villagers threshing and sorting flax seed, and wander under the the dramatic red cliffs for the rest of the afternoon. One of the ancient cliff caves, striped with ochre and white, has a narrow access trail so it’s possible to get inside.

‘Dhakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures illustrate a well known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rimpoche eviscerated a huge demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red and purple-grey.’ –  Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door (5-6 hrs) 

Dates
Custom Departures
15 Days

Traditional Lodge Trek Price
$4280

Luxury Lodge Trek Price
$4680

+ Single Supplement Lodges (Traditional Trek) – $225
+ Domestic Flights Included (4)
+ Upper Mustang & ACAP Permits Included
+ All Jeeps, Lodges, Hotels, Meals, Guide & Porterage Included

Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades 
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

Hotel Upgrades Boutique & Luxury Treks
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House – $150 (Single & Double/3 Nights)
+ Deluxe Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House – $240 (Single & Double/3 Nights)
+ Hotel Barahi Upgrade – $70 Single | $45 Double/Per Room
+ Maya’s Heritage Inn (Tsarang) Upgrade – $150 Deluxe | $250 Suite Per Room/Per Night
+ Royal Mustang Resort (Lo Manthang) Upgrade – $225 Standard | $285 Deluxe | $475 Suite Per Room/Per Night
+ Royal Mustang Resort Tiji Festival Rates – Extra $200 Per Room/Per Night
+ Om’s Home (Jomsom) Upgrade – $65 Single | $40 Double

Upper Mustang Extra Days & Excursions
+ Extra Day Lo Manthang | Tiji Festival
+ Extra Day Lo Manthang | Day Hike Namgyal & Thinggar Valley
+ Extra Day Lo Manthang | Jeep Safari & Hike Rinchin Ling &/or Drakphuk Konchok Ling Cave 
+ Extra Day Lo Manthang | Jeep Safari & Textile Shopping Nomad Camp
+ Extra Day Tangge | Trek &/or Drive (Certain Months of the Year) 
+ Jeep Safari | Visit Muktinath Temple Complex en Route to Jomsom ($35)
+ Jeep Safari | Tsarang – Lo Gekar – Tsarang Jeep ($65)
+ Jeep Per Day ($125 – Approx)
+ Jeep Excursions from Lo Manthang ($ Customized)

Includes

• Kathmandu Guest House (Kathmandu)
• Pokhara Hotel
• Upper Mustang Permit & Annapurna Conservation Area Permit
• Domestic Flights (4)
• Trekking Guide & Porter(s)
• Airport Transfers
• Group Transportation by Private Jeep (when required)
• Hotel + Lodge Accommodation
• Entrance Fees
• All Meals at Lodges, Filtered Drinking Water + Hot Drinks
• Helicopter Trip or Rescue Services (Cost of Helicopter NOT Included)

Excludes

• Travel Medical & Travel Insurance (both required)
• Nepal Visa
• Helicopter Rescue Service Cost
• Helicopter shuttle service to or from Jomsom in case of flight delays or cancellations
• Lunch & Dinner (Kathmandu & Pokhara)
• International Flights
• Monastery Donations
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol & Packaged Drinks
• Laundry
• Tips

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $250 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

Travelers’ Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments

Nepal Times
Gift a Goat to Tibet Nomads in Nepal
“Local communities and trekking groups have been helping the nomads living near Lo Manthang recover. One of them is Kamzang Journeys, which specializes in taking trekking teams to camp and travel with the nomads. It has set up The Nomad Fund, and says the money collected from its Adopt a Goat program is delivered directly to nomad families. Despite its name, the $150 per goat collected can be used by the nomads as they need, whether for food and supplies, medical care or to purchase replacement livestock. “The Adopt a Goat project is very close to our hearts as we have been trekking with these resilient, warm, generous and tough nomads for nearly two decades,” says Kim Bannister of Kamzang Journeys. “We provide families with financial help when they lose their animals during winters, and help with sales of their hand-woven textiles.” 

Trip Advisor Reviews

Trek Highlights

• Wonderful + Remote Mustang Lodge Trekking! (Virtually NO Road Trekking)
• Once Forbidden Walled City of Lo Manthang (Lo Monthang)
• Luri Gompa, Tashi Kabum + the Sky Caves of Upper Mustang (Tibetan Buddhist + Burial Caves)
• Ancient, Crumbling Fortresses, Palaces + Buddhist Hermitages
• The Incredible Buddhist Monasteries + Murals of Upper Mustang
• Remote Trek Through ‘Old Tibet’
• Incredible Sculpted Valleys, Wild Rock Formations, Deep River Gorges + Saligrams
• Remote, Endlessly Fascinating Nar Village
• Classic Scenery of the High Tibetan Plateau
• The Kali Gandaki Gorge + Fossil Collecting

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Clients’ Highlights
Kamzang Journeys trips are, without a doubt, the best way to take a ‘regular’ destination and turn it into a great adventure that goes above and beyond. If a normal tour trip does something, Kamzang Kim will do it better. If the normal itinerary goes to the normal spots, Kamzang Journeys will take you to the less-known, rarely-visited, special and fantastic places. And on top of that? Kim and Lhakpa are a true pleasure to deal with, and make the process fun. The details are taken care of. The camps have a personal touch. Everywhere you go, they know the locals. Everywhere you camp, you feel at home. What more could a trekker ask for?
– Alex P, (Canada) Sky Caves + Last Nomads of Upper Mustang Trek 2017

I have done numerous treks in the Himalayan region over the last 25 years, and I would rate Kamzang Journeys at the top of my list for trekking companies. Excellent service, attention to detail, great food, good equipment, friendly and competent staff. We had far more snow than normal on our March-April trek, and alternate plans were made while sticking as much as possible to the original itinerary. The crew went above and beyond to help us get where we wanted to go. Pay attention to the trip description. They travel to out of the way places and take the more difficult route – on purpose!
– Kate C (USA), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2015

Thanks again for the absolutely spectacular trip, and hopefully we won’t delay nearly as long next time in making our way back to Nepal!
– Anne P (Canada), Nar Phu to Upper Mustang 2014

Thanks for looking after my friends Ian & Adam so well! They were really pleased and very impressed with the arrangements made by Kamzang Journeys and particularly pleased with the guide, Karma, who did a wonderful job of looking after them on their trek. Everything went to their satisfaction and it exceeded their expectations. He’s now got a taste of Nepal and thinking about doing another trek there sometime!
– Viv D (Australia), friend of Paul & Patrick, Private Annapurna Peaks & Villages, Helambu Trek 2014

I have traveled the world and I have never been as cared for as I was in my trek in Nepal. Karma was beyond attentive and professional. He has become family. The very best of Nepal and mankind can be found in this young man.
– Dave M (USA), Annapurna Peaks & Villages 2013

Thank you for making this trip one of the most memorable ones in my lifetime. You have been a friend when I needed one, a leader when the group needed one, an impeccable organizer and a great conversationalist. I marvel at your unlimited energy.
– Shiven M (India + USA), Last Nomads of Mustang 2011

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Clear Sky, Red Earth: A Himalayan Story – Sienna Craig & Tenzin Norbu

Articles, Videos & Documentaries on Mustang
Gift a Goat to Upper Mustang Nomads | Nepali Times (Kamzang Journeys, The Kamzang Fund)

Interviews with Tibetan Nomads of Upper Mustang | Video (Lhakpa Dorji & Nuru Sherpa, The Kamzang Fund)

This Ancient Himalayan Kingdom Has Been Isolated from the World – Until Now | National Geographic

Magnificent Mustang Trekking Nepal’s Mountain Deserts | Lonely Planet (Bradley Mayhew)

Myths & Mountains in Nepal | NY Times (Edward Wong)

As Himalaya Warms, Nepal’s Climate Migrants Struggle to Survive | NY Times

Yak Herders’ Vanishing Way of Life | NY Times

Buddhists, Reconstructing Sacred Tibetan Murals, Wield Their Brushes in Nepal | NY Times

Nepal, the Great Plunder | Al Jazeera 101 East Video

Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge | Al Jazeera 101 East

Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge | Al Jazeera 101 East Video

Cave People of the Himalayas | National Geographic

Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic

New Death Ritual Found in Himalaya | National Geographic

Lost Treasures of Tibet | PBS Documentary

Cave People of the Himalaya | PBS Documentary

The Ancient Mysteries of Mustang’s Caves | BBC

How Tibetans Survive on the Roof of the World | BBC

Before They Pass Away (Photos) | Jimmy Nelson

Earth Door Sky Door – Paintings of Mustang by Robert Powell | Asian Art

Foreign Correspondent: The Road | ABC Australia

Inside the Forbidden Kingdom of Lo | ABC Australia

Mustang & Its Eastern Route | The Khampa Route | Jeff Fuchs Tea + Mountain Journals

Mustang & the Kingdom of Lo | In the Himalayas of Nepal with Explorer Jeff Fuchs | Outpost Magazine

Mustang: Lives & Landscape of the Lost Tibetan Kingdom | Photo Essay – Global Oneness Project

Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art

Nepal Diary: A Gift of Sight Expedition | The Active Times

Modernizing Mustang | Global Oneness Project

A Fortress in the Sky: The Last Forbidden Kingdom of Tibetan Culture (Photo Essay) | Washington Post

Himalayan Healers | Nepali Times

Mustang, the Kingdom of Lo | (excerpts from Kamzang Journeys)

Last King of Mustang Dies at 86 | My Republica

Last King of Remote Buddhist Kingdom Dies in Nepal | Indian Express

The Heights We Go To | Archeology

Just 700 Speak This Language | NY Times

Mustang, the Hidden Kingdom | YouTube

Upper Mustang – Kamzang Journeys Trek | Colin + Pauline’s Blog

Ammonites | National Geographic

The Familliar Strange (Saligrams) | Dr Holly Walters Blog

Documentary Movies on Mustang
Sky Caves of Nepal | National Geographic Documentaries (Previews)
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic | Leisl Clark (Director)
YouTube Download
YouTube Preview

Mustang: Hidden World Beyond the Himalaya | Ghang-Tuk Tsokpa Film (Available in Kathmandu)

The Last Yak Herder of Dhe | Fidel Devkota
Part 1
Part 2

Talking to the Air | Rare Equine Trust