Upper Mustang & Sky Caves Boutique Horseback Trek – Nepal Horseback Trip
‘Mustang is a centre of the sky, the middle of the earth, the head of all rivers where horses grow swift.’ – Sienna Craig – Horses Like Lightning
NOTE | We offer this wonderful horseback trek through Upper Mustang as a boutique-luxury tour, or as a traditional lodge tour.
A specially crafted Upper Mustang horseback trek for private excursions by the sturdy Mustangi horse into this magical kingdom! Our wonderful horse trek into the hidden Buddhist kingdom of Upper Mustang ventures deep into the world of ‘sky-caves’, including the renown Luri Gompa and Tashi Kabum, adorned with some of the most exquisite murals of the Tibetan Buddhist world and dating back to antiquity.
Situated in the rain shadow of the Dhaulagiri range, Mustang is one of Nepal’s most diverse and spectacularly beautiful regions. Sculpted canyons and fantastic rock formations, traditional, white-washed Tibetan-style villages, crumbling fortresses, royal palaces, unexplored cave complexes, Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and Himalayan snow-peaks characterize this spectacular region, a thumb sticking up into the Tibetan plateau.
Upper Mustang and its walled capital, Lo Monthang, is a remote and starkly beautiful region, home to Tibetan Buddhism as well as the remnants of the more mystical Bon religion which pre-dates Buddhism. Mustang was first explored by a handful of intrepid Himalayan travelers and pilgrims in in the 50s and 60s, and we continue in their spirit of exploration. We journey along some of the least known routes to the more isolated villages in this sun-drenched region, often following the rocky Kali Gandaki river-bed, other times trekking on spectacular trails high above it, and descending through marvelously sculpted and multi-hued gorges.
Upper Mustang is the realm of the last nomads of Mustang, still living their traditional migratory lifestyle on the high plateaus bordering Tibet. We visit some of Mustang’s most far-flung villages such as Ghara, Yara and Tangge (in the Spring), having salt-butter tea and bartering for locally-woven textiles with the villagers.
Don’t miss this unique journey by horseback into magical Upper Mustang, Nepal!
Trip
Upper Mustang & Sky Caves Horseback Trek – Nepal Horseback Trek
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House (Luxury Rooms)
Day 2 – Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing
Day 3 – Fly Pokhara | Transfer Himalayan Front Resort (Sarangkot) or Waterfront Resort (Lakeside)
Day 4 – Fly Jomsom. Ride Kagbeni + Chhusang
Day 5 – Ride Syangboche | Cross Cross Dajori La 3610m, Bhene La 3840m + Yamda La 3985m
Day 6 – Ride Tsarang | Cross Syangboche La 3825m, Nyi La 4010m, Ghemi La 3520m + Tsarang La 3870m
Day 7 – Ride Lo Manthang | Visit Buddhist Monasteries
Day 8 – Lo Manthang | Ride Chhoser Valley + Jhong Caves. Return via Namgyal + Thinggar Valley
Day 9 – Ride Dhakmar | Visit Nomads + Lo Gekar | Cross Marang La 4305m + Dhakmar La 3950m
Day 10 – Ride Ghemi + Gheling
Day 11 – Ride Chhusang
Day 12 – Ride Muktinath | Cross Gyu La 4080m
Day 13 – Ride Jomsom
Day 14 – Fly Pokhara + Kathmandu
Day 15 – Trip Ends | Transfer Airport
+ Extra Day Lo Manthang | Optional Day Ride Sam Dzong (Hiking Required)
+ Extra Day Lo Manthang | Visit Rinchin Ling or Drakphuk Konchok Ling Caves (Hiking Required)
NOTE | Lodges included in this itinerary are the boutique-luxury lodges. Traditional lodges also available + we can further customize to add Royal Mustang Resort (for example) in Lo Manthang into a traditional lodge itinerary.
Customized Upper Mustang Trip + Helicopter Options
We can customize this Upper Mustang itinerary! Choose number of days, drive directly from Lo Monthang to Jomsom or include other Mustang stops or extra days.
+ We offer charter helicopter trips out of Lo Manthang to Jomsom, Pokhara or Kathmandu, or to Annapurna Base Camp and then back to Jomsom, Pokhara or Kathmandu.
+ We can customize your trip to include the TIJI FESTIVAL (Lama Dance in Lo Manthang) in May if dates fit.
Chitwan + Bardia Luxury Wildlife Safaris | Tiger Tops Lodges
Tiger Tops Wildlife Safaris | Chitwan Tharu Lodge + Bardia Karnali Lodge
Chitwan National Park | Maruni Sanctuary Lodge
Amazing Nepal Heritage Tour | Kathmandu, Chitwan, Bandipur & Pokhara
Upper Mustang Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Camping Trek (Kim’s)
Upper Mustang Sky Caves & Nomads Camping Trek
Upper Mustang Jeep Safari
Upper Mustang Jeep Safari – Nepal
Upper Mustang Boutique Jeep Safari
Upper Mustang Boutique Jeep Safari
Travel Advice
+ We strongly recommend keeping an extra day post-trek in Kathmandu in case of flight delays out of Jomsom.
+ Travel insurance with helicopter evacuation required!
+ We recommend purchasing trip cancellation & travel insurance!
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Itinerary
Upper Mustang Boutique Horseback Trek – Luxury & Heritage Nepal Horseback Trek
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! You will be met at Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from Kamzang Journeys or Khumbu Adventures (our partners in Kathmandu) Doma, Lhakpa and Nuru Sherpa). Look for a sign with your name on it as you leave the arrival area. We strongly suggest purchasing a NTC (Nepal Telecom) SIM card as you leave the airport if you have an unlocked phone. It’s very useful for data in the remote regions of Nepal. We will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House (or see Great Stays tab for luxury, boutique, and other hotel options in the Kathmandu Valley) where your room has been booked for you. Drink plenty of water to hydrate after your flight, and enjoy your first evening in Kathmandu …
We’ll need your travel medical insurance, a copy of your passport and Nepali visa, and one (or more) visa-sized photos (inquire if we need for your trek); please have them ready to give to Lhakpa, Doma or Nuru. And please ask if you need your gear checked, or have shopping or sightseeing questions!
Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Enjoy dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants … (B)
Day 2 – Kathmandu
Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (See Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples. (B)
Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!
Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)
Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji
Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.
We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.
Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.
Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.
In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’ stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.
Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.
Day 3 – Fly Pokhara 800m | Transfer Himalayan Front Resort (Sarangkot) or Waterfront Resort (Lakeside Pokhara)
Start the day with a short but scenic flight to Pokhara, 198 kilometers west of Kathmandu, flying above the rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. From the flight we’ll look down on terraced villages and green hills, with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance, and land in balmy, sub-tropical Pokhara. We will transfer to the fabulous Himalayan Front Resort high above Phewa Lake, with breathtaking Himalayan sunset and sunrise views! You have the choice of staying at the equally wonderful Waterfront Resort right on the lake …
Enjoy the afternoon at the resort or back down in Pokhara; wander the shore of Phewa Lake, go paragliding or zip lining, wander along the lakeside (Lakeside Road takes you all the way along the southeast side of the lake), rent a bicycle, paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views, drink a huge glass of fresh juice and do some shopping in town, or just sit and relax at the Himalayan Front Resort or Waterfront Resort and enjoy the Himalayan peak views! (B)
Day 4 – Fly Jomsom 2720m. Ride Kagbeni + Chhusang 2955m (Bhirkuti Guest House)
Up early for the spectacular mountain flight to the district headquarters of Mustang, Jomsom. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet, you’ll be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans. From the airport enjoy the fantastic panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.
After breakfast at Trekkers Inn in Jomsom (where you stay when you return to Jomsom), you’ll meet your Mustangi horse guide, and get fitted for your horses for the Upper Mustang horseback trip.
Leaving Jomsom, you’ll ride up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni (2900m). You’ll start on a jeep track, which follows the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. Once in Kagbeni, take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while your guide checks you into restricted Upper Mustang.
Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sayka gompa, 800 years old. We’ll also wander past the ancient, crumbing, 100-room King’s Palace. At the police check post at the north end of the village where a sign reads ‘Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point’. You can hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint to enjoy the fantastic views over the patchwork of fields in Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligiri.
Next, ride on a newly built jeep road high above the Kali Gandaki, or take the older track above the jeep road. We’ll ride on the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, high up on the plateaus above the river-bed, all the time with magnificent views from all sides. The village of Tiri Gaon sits on the west bank of the river. We head north past the red, white and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m). Tangbe is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley.
An hour or so past Tangbe, you’ll reach Chhusang village (2955m), an interesting Tibetan village with lots to explore. There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade.
Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to the seventeenth centuries. Of these caves, the historian Gucci believes that they were the homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit-monks as retreats. (As Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently). Many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests and plentiful game to hunt.
Your first lodge stay is in the lively village of Chhusang at Bhirkuti Guest House. Enjoy the rest of the day to wander up the valley past Tetang with your guide, head out to the caves across the river and explore, or sit in Chhusang and watch the world life unfold in the late afternoon. (B, L, D)
Day 5 – Ride Syangboche via Samar | Cross Cross Dajori La 3610m, Bhene La 3840m + Yamda La 3985m (Dhaulagiri Guest House)
Leaving Chhusang, cross the small Narsing Khola, and ride for a short while up the rocky Kali Gandaki riverbed, where you might see saligrams from the Jurassic period (160 million years old) embedded in sediment of the sea floor. You’ll cross the Kali Gandaki on a bridge (note the naturally formed tunnel through which the Kali Gandaki flows to the north) and wind your way up to to Tsaile (3060m), which sits high on the plateau. Tsaile is lively village with extensive wheat and barley fields, and traditional architecure. Look above the bridge for views of some of the ancient caves explored in the Peter Athens National Geographic documentaries. The caves are all empty, assumed to be mediation caves, and believed to be haunted by the spirit or zombie of the ‘Chhuksang woman’. Two of the National Geographic explorers were almost fatally injured while exploring these caves.
The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’ do what the look like they might do, capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household, and date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion. You will also see woman wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains.
Next the ascent up the Dajori La on a breathtaking trail towards Samar. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks. We trek on this slightly precipitous cliff-side trail (partly road, which we leave) past the long suspension bridge to the Gurung village of Ghyakar, the canyon becoming deeper and more dramatic as we ascend. The Dajori La, at 3600 meters, is marked by rock cairns, a 2 ½ – 3 hour trek from Tsaile.
The new trekking route (while the above route is being fixed), an alternative to the trail which is being widened, is to cross the long suspension bridge and trek through Bon-po Gyakar to the pass. The trail is good, a straight forward ascent to the top of the hill, followed by two steep ravines before reaching the Dajori La.
Lovely Samar, which means ‘red earth’ in Tibetan, is visible just below, a 5 minute ride to a group of three chortens on the ridge above the village. Samar, a green village with lovely poplar groves and flat-roofed houses, was formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet. There is a vertical Tibetan flag, called a tarchok, on every rooftop, erected for every member of the village. To the right, across the valley, is the Chungsi La (3810m), a vast canyon and the sacred Buddhist Chungsi Caves, about 500 meters below the pass.
Passing through the cluster of traditional houses and mani walls of Samar on your horses, you will descend to the Samarkyung and the Jhuwa Kholas (rivers), and then ride gradually up the Bhena La (3840m), followed by the the Yamda La (3985m), both with spectacular views towards Upper Mustang and back towards the Annapurnas. A switchback takes you easily to the bottom of the pass, where you’ll ride for another 20 minutes to reach the lodge at Shyangboche (3765m). Shyangboche was originally a seasonal kharka named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan). Below are small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats. Watch out for dogs. You will stay first Tibetan lodge on the left, with a lovely, green campsite just below the lodge and spectacular Annapurna views at sunset and sunrise! (B, L, D)
Alternate Riding Route | Chungsi Caves 3425m + Syangboche 3765m | Cross Chungsi La 3810m
An exposed and steep trail from Samar to Shyangboche, I’ll leave the route in just in case the trail improves. Passing through the cluster of traditional houses and mani walls of Samar, exit through the ‘kane’ chorten and descend steeply on a switchbacking trail to the Samarkyung Khola, after which you have another drop into the next valley, the Jhuwa Khola, and another climb out. At the plateau, take the right fork and trek past a small doska, or seasonal hearding settlement, and continue to climb for a short time to the Chungsi La (3810m), from where you’re treated to spectacular views down into the deep canyon beyond us, and back over the Annapurnas.
Again switchbacking steeply, drop into this incredible, vast canyon, with wonderful, expansive views the entire time. Staying high above the Kali Gandaki, which snakes its way through the canyons far, far below us, the trail descends steeply, eventually rounding the corner just past our large look-out rock. It doesn’t take long to round the corner and reach the intersection to the sacred Buddhist Chungsi Caves, about 500 meters below the pass. Those who are feeling tired should continue on and not climb the many steps to the caves in the middle of the day; the team can form two groups once at the caves.
The Chungsi Caves, about 300 steps up, are one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s meditation caves. Inside are fantastic ‘rangjung’ or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens, ‘Tara’s terraced fields’ and others Buddhist relics. The old caretaker was from Gheling, the new caretaker is a monk from Tibet who has been living in the cave for 2+ years. (See page 144, Tucci). Back down the steps, continue to head north, climbing back up through the canyon on a widened trail, soon to be a road. En route you can expect to see many nests of Himalayan Griffins high up in the cliff-faces, noticeable from their white below them (vulture droppings), and will see these majestic birds with their three-meter wingspans circling high above us. Ascend to the small hamlet of Shyangboche, originally a seasonal kharka and named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan), passing a small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats. Watch out for dogs. You will stay first Tibetan lodge on the left, with a lovely, green campsite just below the lodge and spectacular Annapurna views at sunset and sunrise! H
Day 6 – Ride Tsarang 3570m via Gheling + Ghemi | Cross Syangboche La 3825m, Nyi La 4010m, Ghemi La 3520m + Tsarang La 3870m
We start the morning with a quick ride up to the Syangboche La (3825m), just 50 meters above the village. Stop for photos of the dramatic Himalayan vista, including Annapurna I, Niligiri and the peaks north bordering Tibet, and look down to the east to the picturesque village of Geling. Above Geling is an old, brick-red gompa, ancient meditation caves and cave complexes in the eroded cliffs, and in the village a new school and white-washed Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields. Descending on a switchbacking jeep track, enjoy the dramatic scenery as you reach the stream and ascend to green, lovely Geling. Above Geling is an old, brick-red gompa and ancient meditation caves in the eroded cliffs, and in the village a new school and white-washed Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields.
Ascending gradually on the new road, you will cutting down to a smaller trail which leads over a small stream. Climb to the small hamlet of Tamagaon (3700m) and continue to ride along a lovely trail amongst rounded granite boulders to the small hamlets of Chhunggar (3750m), where there is a large, colorfully striped chorten at each end of the village. While trekking north, passing the small hamlet of Zaite (3480m) on a newly constructed dirt road (there aren’t many, but this short section is unavoidable), you will be treated to more great views of the Himalayan peaks to our south: Thorung Peak, Annapurna l and Tilicho amongst them.
Leaving Zaite, you and our horse will climb the trail that intersects the switch-backing road leading to the Nyi La (4010m), a half an hour ascent. From the cairn at the pass you are again treated to Himalayan panoramas including Annapurna I and beautiful Niligiri, as well as the clusters of white-washed villages below. More of Upper Mustang opens up, including the new road snaking its way to the border of Tibet. Descend on the road for a bit, but soon head off on a small trail and continue contouring around hillsides to the Ghemi La, from where there are wonderful views down to the checkered fields and large, beautiful village of Ghemi. Ride steeply down to Ghemi (3750m), built along the steep edges of the cliff as are many fortified villages in Mustang. There are actually the ruins of an old fortress somewhere in Ghemi, which was largely abandoned until the Khampa fighters set up a magar (war camp) here and brought new life and wealth to the village. Your guide will take you for a wander through this interesting village, passing the mani walls and prayer wheels, perhaps finding the key-keeper to open the Ghemi Gompa.
Afterward lunch in Ghemi, take the small, rocky trail following a willow lined stream down to a bridge crossing the Tangmar Chu. Cross the bridge and climb a steep, dusty hill. The trail looks across the valley to ochre, blue and steel-grey cliffs, and leads past tri-colored chortens and perhaps the longest and most spectacular mani wall in Mustang, behind which is the hospital. Looming ahead is a cluster of ancient chortens, some of the most massive in the Tibetan world, backed by dramatic, sculpted cliff-faces and said to be 1500 years old (the same as Lo Gekar); an awesome sight!
One last small pass to ride up, the Tsarang La, before reaching Tsarang, meaning ‘cock’s crest’, one of Mustang’s ancient capitals perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon. After checking into Maya Inn, your guide will lead you on a walk between high walls to the south of the village, green with poplar and willow trees, and stop to gaze at Tsarang Gompa and its ruins, impressively built on a crag of rock. Wander through the maze of paths to the dzong and friendly gompa before dinner, and stop in at one of the many shops for a look. Many of the wealthier homes here have family shrines which you might be lucky enough to be invited to see. The local women will be herding their sheep through the narrow, walled paths at dusk as the snow pigeons circle, shimmering, under the setting sun.
Tsarang is a large village of 83 houses (population 400) built on top of the Tsarang Khola canyon, one of the later capitals of the Kingdom of Lo in the 14th century. Stone walls separate the houses and form tunnel-like paths, a new irrigation ditch lines the main street, and willow groves turn the village green. Tsarang bustles with its many shops, its own hydro-electric plant and quite a few guest houses and visitors. It is dominated by the massive, crumbling five-story Tsarang Dzong, a Tibetan-styled fortified palace built in 1378 (after the palace at Lo Manthang), and the large, ochre-hued Tsarang Gompa, built in 1385, of the Sakya sect and with the greatest library in Lo (the palace also has a great library). The dzong and palace were both built by Ame Pal and the other of the ‘Three Sangpos’. The palace has a wonderful, old prayer room with a gold-printed prayer book and a fascinating array of statues, thankas and large Buddha paintings that the resident lama will show you, and the withered 500-year-old hand of the master architect of the palace. Tsarang Gompa is adorned with fantastic 15th century frescos on the assembly hall walls; don’t miss the older prayer room in back, once an ‘ani gompa’, or nunnery. Elaborate sand mandalas are created at the gompa at festival time, and then ceremonially deposited into the river at the festival’s end. Ekai Kawaguchi stayed nine months here in 1899, and Michel Peissel spent time with the Abbot of Tsarang, the king’s brother (the present king’s father) during his time in Mustang.
Enjoy the rest of the afternoon at Maya’s Inn, owned and run by Maya Bista, a relative of the King, the palace and gompa visible in the near distance. Take the chance to have a cup of traditional salt-butter tea in the kitchen with Maya! Your horses will bed down for the night in the stables right across from Maya Inn’s door. (B, L, D)
Day 7 – Ride Lo Manthang 3820m | Cross Tsarang La 3870m | Visit Buddhist Monasteries
A short, flatter ride this morning to have plenty of time in Lo Manthang! Ride down the plateau, cross the bridge, ride back up and end up across the river from Tsarang. From here you will have a flat ride past a massive, newly renovated chorten. Another bit of flat riding, and you will cross the small Lo La pass and finally reach to the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang! Ride directly to your lodge, Pema’s Lotus Inn or Tsewang’s Lo Manthang Guest House. After lunch, start to explore the maze-like alleyways of this fascinating village. Be prepared for the onslaught of tourism as Lo Manthang is not as pristine as it used to be, but it’s just as mystical in the golden, yellow light as the local men bring their sheep and horses inside the city gates for the night. Horses roam freely amongst the the crumbling walls and fields that surround Lo. We recommend visiting Pema Bista or Tsewang Bista’s wonderful shops, treasure chests of antiques and textiles. You will have plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan peaks bordering Tibet.
Spend the rest of the day wandering the labyrinthine alleyways of Lo Manthang, shopping for Tibetan and Mustangi artifacts and doing a ‘kora’ of the large, walled complex. There are several amchis that run Tibetan herbal medicine clinics in town, two schools, a growing number of coffee shops, plenty local shops selling goods from Tibet along with the increasing number of souvenir, thanka and antique shops. (They do take credit cards!) (B, L, D)
History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital and its inhabitants called Lobas. Legend has it that the palace in Lo Manthang was constructed after Ame Pal send a godess to find an auspicious spot; she landed at the site of the present (crumbling) palace. The summer palace at Tingger was built later, and was used mostly be the earlier kings in the summer. Later kings spent their summers in Lo Manthang and their winters in Kathmandu.
Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings which we’ll have a chance to visit. There are even yeti (known here as mehti) prints rumored to be found.
Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (Abbot) were allowed to ride. All others must walk, to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, still resides at his four-storied palace inside the city walls; that is, when he’s not in Kathmandu. He is an avid horseman, and keeps his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, the king plays a somewhat ceremonial role although he is well loved and respected throughout Mustang. The present king is the 25th descendent of Ame Pal.
Day 8 – Lo Manthang | Ride Chhoser Valley (Nyphu + Garphu Gompas) + Jhong Cave Comples. Return via Namgyal + Thinggar Valley
A day ride through the historic Chhoser and Namgyal valleys. Leaving Lo Manthang, descend past the brick-red Chamba Gompa at the corner of Lo Manthang to the lower cast community living along the willows of the riverbed, climbing out along the jeep road which you follow for about an hour. You will ride along the wide road, passing the ruins of the original Choede Gompa, passing through crumbling canyons, dry gullies, past ruined fortresses and the remains of ancient monasteries, relics of a more prosperous time past. Behind, leaving Lo, are the snow-peaks bordering Tibet, the ruins of the once-imposing Lo Dzong.
The Chosar valley was the main trading route with Tibet and Lhasa, and is peppered with the ruins of old fortresses guarding this strategic valley. Just north of this valley, over the border in Tibet, Lhakpa and I met a Tibetan man who still dealt in the trade of rare animal skins with Mustangi traders, a risky and of forbidden endeavor. It will be interesting to see if we can find out anything of this trade on the Nepal side of the border.
Crossing a bridge across intersecting stream on the main road, head right, cross the stream on a wooden bridge, and take the trail heading towards our favorite troglodyte village, riding through lovely, textured cultivated regions. Taking a bit of time to explore this interesting cave village, perhaps visiting a cave-house, you will hike for another 20 minutes or so before we see the Jhong Caves valley.
Passing Nyphu Gompa to the left, hike for about 15 minutes to the incredible cave-dwelling complex of Jhong, which you negotiate by ladders and through small tunnels (bring a headlamp), very interesting and reputed to be 2500 years old. In front, a range of spectacular snow-peaks marks the border with Tibet, and around us gurgling streams and green meadows line the trail.
After the Jhong caves, return to visit the Sakya Ngorpa sect Nyphu Gompa (3760m) ahead, with its Lo Khenchen cave (Lo Khenchen was an early monk who came from Tsarang and meditated in this cave) and some older meditation caves which were destroyed in the earthquake. The cave monastery is home to Khenpo Samdup, an important lama. Nyphu Gompa has 30 resident monks and lamas and 40 thawas, and is built directly into the rock face. A Sakya Rimpcoche came in 2001 and built the new school. just below the gompa. The students spend 7 months in Mustang, and 5 months in Pokhara during the winter months. The ruins across the mostly dry riverbed are an old monastery which none of the villagers seem to know much about. ‘Nyphu had all the elements one could wish in a mysterious sacred retreat, possessing all the snugness of an underground hive and the grandeur of an eagle’s nest.’ – Mustang; A Lost Tibetan Kingdom – Michel Peissel
Ride through small lanes, passing houses with red posts and often young Mustangi women weaving in the courtyards. Looking up to more eroded cave complexes, we soon round the corner and trek past a large chorten to reach the interesting Garphu Gompa on the east banks of the Mustang Khola. Garphu, built in the 9th century, is the second cave gompa (the first is Nyphu), belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is associated with Guru Rimpoche. The furthest monastery in this valley is Nyamdo Gompa. High up in this valley, between the Jhong Caves and Rinchin Ling, many ruins are perched high up on craggy cliffsides, in impossible locations. Locals say they are only houses, but we imagine that several of them were dzongs, gompas or lookouts. Return to Lo Manthang via the dirt jeep road. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Day 9 – Ride Dhakmar 3765m | Visit Nomads + Lo Gekar 3940m | Cross Marang La 4305m + Dhakmar La 3950m
Leaving Lo Manthang, you’ll ride through a scenic, green valley, stopping occasionally for passing herds of sheep and goats, and riding past the ruins of ancient fortresses and monasteries, crossing a small, wide pass to reach our Tibetan nomads.
After some textile shopping with these Tibetan nomads, you’ll ride up an easy trail to the Marang La, riding down the narrower valley on a rockier trail to Lo Gekar, ‘Pure Virtue of Joy’, set majestically in the valley below. Lo Ghekar or Ghar Gompa, built in the 8th century, is one of the oldest gompas in Nepal. It belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet as well as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means ‘house gompa’ after the style of architecture, and harbors many exemplary frescoes as well as wonderfully carved and painted mani stones. Surrounding the gompa are massive, block-like chortens of a unique style and strings of colorful prayer flags fluttering in the winds of Mustang.
The story of Lo Gekar: Samye Gompa, the oldest gompa in Tibet, was repeatedly destroyed by demons when it was being built. The head lama dreamed that Guru Rimpoche could help with the construction and invited him to the site. The great Guru Rimpoche found demons to be the problem, and suggested that they first build Lo Gekar. Guru Rimpoche killed the demons at the spot that Lo Gekar was soon to be constructed. The long mani wall just south of Dhakmar is said to have arisen from the intestines of the demon, and the red cliffs above Dhakmar the blood of the demon. After Lo Gekar was completed, Samye in eastern Tibet was also successfully built.
After a look at the ‘lha-khangs’ or prayer rooms of the gompa, you return down valley, cross the bridge and end up across the river from Tsarang, from you will have a short drive past a massive, newly renovated chorten, cross the small Lo La pass, and finally reach to the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang! You will drive directly to the Royal Mustang Resort, a wonderful luxury and heritage property just outside the city walls. This hotel is owned and operated by Jigme Bista-La, the ruling King of Mustang, and his family, and is decorated in traditional Mustangi textiles, furniture and designs. Your stay in the Royal Mustang Resort is a chance to experience the best of Mustangi culture and cuisine in a luxury resort!
Leaving Lo Gekar, you’ll cross the dramatic Dhakmar La before descending through fluted canyons to Dhakmar
soon arriving at the lively, sprawling village of Dhakmar, dominated by a dramatic, red canyon wall with many ancient cave dwellings. Following the small stream through the lower part of the village, green with old willows and more recently planted poplars, and look across the stream to old gompa. The red cliffs, which house Himalayan Griffins and Lammergeyers, are fantastic, and you will stay for the night in a scenic lodge to enjoy the awe-inspiring views! Get out and explore Dhakmar, look out for villagers threshing and sorting flax seed, and wander under the the dramatic red cliffs for the rest of the afternoon. One of the ancient cliff caves, striped with ochre and white, has a narrow access trail so it’s possible to get inside.
‘Dhakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures illustrate a well known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rimpoche eviscerated a huge demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red and purple-grey.’ – Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door (5-6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Day 10 – Ride Ghemi + Gheling
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Day 11 – Ride Chhusang
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Day 12 – Ride Muktinath | Cross Gyu La 4080m
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Day 13 – Ride Jomsom
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+ Option to stay at the wonderful, new boutique hotel The Moksha Mustang in Jomsom for an extra charge. (+$125)
Day 14 – Fly Pokhara + Kathmandu
You’ll be up early again for our mountain flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, flying between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South before landing in balmy Pokhara. We then board another flight out of Pokhara for our short, scenic flight to Kathmandu, 198 east of Pokhara, flying high above the north-south rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. We pass over terraced villages and green hills with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance.
In Kathmandu, rooms are booked, showers are hot and laundry can be dropped off. We’ll meet for a farewell dinner tonight although we advise keeping an extra few days in Kathmandu post-trek. NOTE: In the case of flight cancellation out of Jomsom everyone will be responsible for their rooms and meals at Trekkers Inn. (B)
Day 15 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
We send you off to the airport for your flight home, and hope to see you again soon! Tashi Delek + Namaste! (B)
Not Enough of Nepal?
We can suggest at trips to the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, Chitwan + Bardia National Parks. Spend a night at The Old Inn Bandipur (or Three Mountain Lodge on luxury trips) en route to the drive to Pokhara, where you might spend several nights at Temple Tree Resort & Spa. Refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending at least 2 nights at either Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge. Tiger tops also has a heritage lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu. Namaste!
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Trek Dhakmar 3765m | Cross Syangboche La 3825m, Nyi La 4010m + Ghemi La 3520m
Cross Dhakmar La 3950m
From Dhakmar, trek up through the fluted hoodoos and craggy spires just north of the village, perhaps a 45-minute climb to reach the plateau about 200 meters above, below the Mui La. The views looking down through the canyons to Dhakmar are breathtaking. From the plateau it’s an easy hour walk down the ridge to the valley, where you will follow the Tsarang Khola, with scenic Marang across the river. Passing through the patchwork of fields, you will soon reach the fortified village of Tsarang, meaning ‘cock’s crest’, one of Mustang’s ancient capitals perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon. Walk between high walls to the south of the village, green with poplar and willow trees, and stop to gaze at Tsarang Gompa and its ruins, impressively built on a crag of rock.
Trek Lo Manthang 3820m | Visit Lo Manthang Buddhist Monasteries
Leaving Tsarang, cross the wide river gully which heads to Lo Gekar (you’ll visit this on the way back), and trek for about two hours past the ruins of ancient fortresses and monasteries, stopping at the massive, newly renovated chorten, towards the walls surrounding Lo Manthang. Horses roam freely amongst the the crumbling walls and fields that surround Lo. After crossing the small Lo La pass, you will enter Lo Manthang by crossing a small bridge and passing through the outer maze of walls. Finally, the fabled city of Lo Manthang!
Your guide will take you to Pema Bista’s Lotus Inn, or Tsewang Bista’s Lo Manthang Guest House, both lovely, traditional lodges owned by local Lo Manthang-pa. Start exploring the maze-like alleyways of this fascinating village. Be prepared for the onslaught of tourism as Lo Manthang is not as pristine as it used to be, but it’s just as mystical in the golden, yellow light as the local men bring their sheep and horses inside the city gates for the night. We recommend visiting Pema or Tsewang’s wonderful shops, treasure chests of antiques and textiles. You will have plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan peaks bordering Tibet.
To the north of Lo Mantang, in the direction of Tibet and at the bottom of the Namgyal valley, are the impressive ruins of Khochoe Dzong, meaning ‘white sheep dzong’, Ame Pal’s original palace dzong built in 1440. The other ruins, slightly lower, was a monastery of a similar period. Both catch incredible morning and evening light, very photogenic sights, and at least the lower ruins are accessible from the Namgyal Tingger vallley.
Spend the rest of the day visiting the famous monasteries, wandering the labyrinthine alleyways of Lo Manthang, shopping for Tibetan and Mustangi artifacts and doing a ‘kora’ of the large, walled complex. There are several amchis that run Tibetan herbal medicine clinics in town, two schools, a growing number of coffee shops, plenty local shops selling goods from Tibet along with the increasing number of souvenir, thanka and antique shops. (They do take credit cards!) And do visit the wonderful Royal Mustang Resort just outside the city walls, owned and operated by Jigme Bista-La, the ruling King of Lo Manthang and his family. (B, L, D)
HOTEL NOTE | Option to upgrade to the Royal Mustang Resort, owned and operated by the royal Mustang family (+$125 per night per person)
History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital and its inhabitants called Lobas. Legend has it that the palace in Lo Manthang was constructed after Ame Pal send a godess to find an auspicious spot; she landed at the site of the present (crumbling) palace. The summer palace at Tingger was built later, and was used mostly be the earlier kings in the summer. Later kings spent their summers in Lo Manthang and their winters in Kathmandu.
Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings which we’ll have a chance to visit. There are even yeti (known here as mehti) prints rumored to be found.
Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (Abbot) were allowed to ride. All others must walk, to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, still resides at his four-storied palace inside the city walls; that is, when he’s not in Kathmandu. He is an avid horseman, and keeps his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, the king plays a somewhat ceremonial role although he is well loved and respected throughout Mustang. The present king is the 25th descendent of Ame Pal.
There are four major temples within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang, the 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang (the oldest gompa, built in 1387, with the striking 50 foot ‘Jampa’ (Future) Buddha, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago), 15th century Thubchen Gompa (Great Assembly hall, pillars 30 feet high, the second oldest gompa with fantastic murals in the Dukhang), Chhoede Gompa (where the Kempo lives, with a monastic school) and Choprang Gompa. There is also the Raja’s Palace, home to the present King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (who is from an aristocratic Lhasa family) and an interesting maze of a village to explore. There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry.
Day 10 – Visit Chhoser Valley | Nyphu + Garphu Gompas + Jhong Cave Complex
You can visit the Chhoser valley on foot, by jeep or by horseback. (NOTE that Kamzang Journeys does not take responsibility for horseback riding. You will contract a horse directly from a horse owner. Kamzang Journeys has no legal responsibility and cannot be held responsible for injuries while on horseback. See disclaimer further down in itinerary)
Leaving Lo Manthang, descend past the brick-red Chamba Gompa at the corner of Lo Manthang to the lower cast community living along the willows of the riverbed, climbing out along the jeep road which you follow for about an hour. You will hike along the wide road, passing the ruins of the original Choede Gompa, passing through crumbling canyons, dry gullies, past ruined fortresses and the remains of ancient monasteries, relics of a more prosperous time past. Behind, leaving Lo, are the snow-peaks bordering Tibet, the ruins of the once-imposing Lo Dzong.
The Chosar valley was the main trading route with Tibet and Lhasa, and is peppered with the ruins of old fortresses guarding this strategic valley. Just north of this valley, over the border in Tibet, Lhakpa and I met a Tibetan man who still dealt in the trade of rare animal skins with Mustangi traders, a risky and of forbidden endeavor. It will be interesting to see if we can find out anything of this trade on the Nepal side of the border.
Crossing a bridge across intersecting stream on the main road, head right, cross the stream on a wooden bridge, and take the trail heading towards our favorite troglodyte village, hiking through lovely, textured cultivated regions. Taking a bit of time to explore this interesting cave village, perhaps visiting a cave-house, you will hike for another 20 minutes or so before we see the Jhong Caves valley.
Passing Nyphu Gompa to the left, hike for about 15 minutes to the incredible cave-dwelling complex of Jhong, which you negotiate by ladders and through small tunnels (bring a headlamp), very interesting and reputed to be 2500 years old. In front, a range of spectacular snow-peaks marks the border with Tibet, and around us gurgling streams and green meadows line the trail.
After the Jhong caves, return to visit the Sakya Ngorpa sect Nyphu Gompa (3760m) ahead, with its Lo Khenchen cave (Lo Khenchen was an early monk who came from Tsarang and meditated in this cave) and some older meditation caves which were destroyed in the earthquake. The cave monastery is home to Khenpo Samdup, an important lama. Nyphu Gompa has 30 resident monks and lamas and 40 thawas, and is built directly into the rock face. A Sakya Rimpcoche came in 2001 and built the new school. just below the gompa. The students spend 7 months in Mustang, and 5 months in Pokhara during the winter months. The ruins across the mostly dry riverbed are an old monastery which none of the villagers seem to know much about. ‘Nyphu had all the elements one could wish in a mysterious sacred retreat, possessing all the snugness of an underground hive and the grandeur of an eagle’s nest.’ – Mustang; A Lost Tibetan Kingdom – Michel Peissel
Trek through small lanes, passing houses with red posts and often young Mustangi women weaving in the courtyards. Looking up to more eroded cave complexes, we soon round the corner and trek past a large chorten to reach the interesting Garphu Gompa on the east banks of the Mustang Khola. Garphu, built in the 9th century, is the second cave gompa (the first is Nyphu), belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is associated with Guru Rimpoche. The furthest monastery in this valley is Nyamdo Gompa which we may have time to visit later in the afternoon, depending on where we’re camped. High up in this valley, between the Jhong Caves and Rinchin Ling, many ruins are perched high up on craggy cliffsides, in impossible locations. Locals say they are only houses, but we imagine that several of them were dzongs, gompas or lookouts. Return to Lo Manthang via the dirt jeep road. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Extra Day Lo Manthang | Day Hike Namgyal + Tingger Valley + Visit Monasteries
Before booking this Mustang trek, you have the opportunity to spend extra days in Lo Manthang, worth every day in the magical capital!
An optional day hike through the Namgyal and Tingger valleys, a trek that will take a good part of the day but is worth the effort. Leaving Lo Monthang behind the main gate and passing threw the willow-lined, lower caste villages below, climb up to Namgyal Gompa (the Monastery of Victory), set spectacularly on top of a desolate ridge and the newest and most active gompa in Lo. The young novices studying here are from all reaches of the Tibetan Buddhist world. The village of Namgyal spreads out past the Gompa, worth a quick wander. Continuing north on the road and passing several ruins of ancient, crumbling monasteries we soon reach the old capital of Thinggar (4025m) where the king still has his small summer palace, now not in top condition. The small village gompa has been newly renovated, and it’s an interesting and colorful village to explore.
There are many ancient ruins surrounding the village, some gompas and others old fortresses. Once on the opposite side of the winding alleyways, continue to hike north for about half an hour to Kimaling (4030m), just across a long suspension bridge. We’ve had some lovely experiences with the local villagers at Kimaling, who don’t see very many trekkers. You’ll find them weaving, washing textiles and herding their sheep and goats. We might stop for salt-butter tea at a new friend’s small homestay (home) near the local lhakang (temple). Kimaling Gompa is below the village, on the way out as you head towards Phuwa and its gompa on the way down towards Lo. There are tremendous views of Namgyal Gompa backed by snow-peaks behind us as we wander up the valley, and white peaks in front of us bordering Tibet.
The return route heads straight down the valley to Phuwa village and eventually back to Lo Manthang.
Extra Day Lo Manthang – Sky Caves | Rinchin Ling Cave + Drakphuk Koncho Ling Cave
Include an extra day in your itinerary to visit the newly discovered Rinchin Ling cave complex, which requires a jeep, hiking up a steep hillside and entering the caves by a series of roped-together ladders carried up by local villagers for a fee. Better to keep the details of these caves a bit quiet. There is also an option to visit the Drakphuk Konchok Ling cave if the trail is in good condition. This little visited cave requires a seriously exposed hike along steep sided ridges, and a drop down using a rope, and is located north of the Chosar Cave complex. Both of these options probably require a jeep leaving Lo Manthang to get you nearer to the caves.
“The Ritseling Cave is located in Upper Mustang on a peak West of the Konchog Ling Cave. Prior to the last few years it appears as though no one has entered the small cave complex in several hundred years. It has an assortment of murals with a large mandala close to the entrance along with several Buddha figures. Towards the back of the cave there is a mural depicting narrative scenes possibly of one of the occupants of the cave and his travels through Tibet and especially to Lhasa. Various protector deities are found along with a stunning image – large in size – of the nine faced, eighteen armed Garuda. The only other image of this Garuda in a Buddhist context is found in Phyang Monastery, Ladakh, India.” Excerpt from Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art
DISCLAIMER: Horses are a good way to visit both of these valleys as Mustang is a region famous for its horses, but even on horseback it will be a long day. We take no responsibility for anything that may happen on a horse, and horses must be hired from the horse owners, not from Kamzang Journeys. We will help with the arrangements if you want to do a day of horseback riding in Mustang, but bear no responsibility.
Visiting the sky caves can also be dangerous as trails crumble away, and although the guide for Kamzang Journeys only take travelers to the caves that we deem safe, you are ultimately responsible for the decision to climb into these caves. It is not required.
Optional Nomads Day Trip – Lo Manthang | West Nomad Camp 4280m
An option to visit the beautiful, green nomadic encampment, our ‘last nomads of Mustang’ from Lo Manthang. The scenic valley is dotted with nomadic tents of yak-hair, yaks, herds of sheep and goats, piles of yak dung and nomads. Several families live in this valley in their tents, and a few more in the valley over the next ridge. Their encampment is idyllic, set right next to a clear stream on a grassy, flat plateau looking down-valley over Himalayan peaks. Visit the lively doksa in the afternoon, perhaps being invited for a steaming cup of salt-butter tea and dried cheese. This is one of the last nomadic settlements in all of Nepal, a rare chance to see how real Tibetan nomads exist. It is quite high and gets cold in the late afternoons. Shopping for textiles is always an option, ask your guide to translate for you, and do have a look (in any case) at the hand-spun, hand-dyed and hand-woven textiles!
Day 11 – Trek Yara 3610m
Leaving Lo Manthang, make the short descent to the Lo La pass, descend on the main road, and then take a sharp left turn at a nearby signpost, dropping steeply into a dramatic canyon, and descending for several hours to the Kali Gandaki River bottom. An exciting and extremely photographic descent! You reach Dhi village once at the valley bottom, and pass through the village before crossing a bridge and continuing to trek for another hour to Yara, where you will stay for the night at Saribung Guest House, in the middle section of Yara, a bustling village full of Mustangi life.
Have a walk above the village in the afternoon, lovely with the sun shining through the willow leaves which brighten the village. The Kamzang Fund sponsosr a young girl from Yara, Tsering Kondo, for her hearing impairment, and her sister Pasang Lhamo for school, so you might be able to visit these lovely girls and their family in upper Yara There is a gompa and school in the lower reaches of the village for those wanting a short walk, and you might be treated to a cultural dance in the evening, so be ready for a lively Mustangi party! (B, L, D)
Day 12 – Yara | Visit Luri Gompa + Tashi Kabum
The fabled Druk-pa Luri Gompa and its complex of Tibetan Buddhist caves, some of which are accessible others now ‘closed’ forever, are one of the highlights of Upper Mustang. One of the older Kings of Lo married a Bhutanese princess, thus the Druk-pa influence. The main Luri Gompa is situated down near the riverbed; the teacher, kids in tow, will lead on a crumbling trail us up to the upper prayer-room and the fifteenth century ‘Kabum Stupa’, made of highly polished stucco and painted with intricately detailed Newari-styled Buddhist frescos of the Kagyupa saints Tilopa, Naropa and Marpa. Historians estimate them to be from the 13th or 14th century, and linked to the Tashi Kumbum caves, one of a group of connected cave dwellings throughout this particular region. Unfortunately, or fortunately, most have been rendered inaccessible due to the intense erosion in Mustang, so will remain hidden throughout history.
Trekking a short way down to the river, we hike past fantastic, sculpted canyons with the remains of a network of ancient caves, now eroded enough to be inaccessible. We soon reach little visited Tashi Kumbum complex, accessible via a narrow ledge of a trail. Tashi Kumbum is a newly discovered group of six cave dwellings dating from the 15th century, with fantastic Buddhist murals and a large exquisitely painted chorten. Gary McCue, who went there over fifteen years ago, wrote that the approach is very difficult and often dangerous. Our lodge owner was actually the one who discovered the ancient Tashi Kumbum, and then went there with Gary McCue.
We have a walk of less than an hour along the rocky, saligram dotted Puyung Khola riverbed from the Tashi Kumbum cave complex to our camp at Yara. We camp for the night in the new campsite above of Saribung Guest House, in the middle section of Yara, a bustling village full of Mustangi life. Have a walk above the village in the afternoon, lovely with the sun shining through the willow leaves which brighten the village. We sponsor a young girl from Yara, Tsering Kondo, for her hearing impairment so we’ll hope to get a visit from her and her family. There is a gompa and school in the lower reaches of the village for those wanting a short walk. You might be treated to a cultural dance (for a donation to the women’s group) in the evening, so be ready for a lively Mustangi party! (5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Day 13 – Trek Tsarang | Jeep to Visit Lo Gekar
Trekking back to the Kali Gandaki River, you’ll cross the bridge and hike up the trail to Tsarang, where you will have the afternoon to visit Lo Gekar, ‘Pure Virtue of Joy’, set majestically in the valley just above Tsarang. Lo Ghekar or Ghar Gompa, built in the 8th century, is one of the oldest gompas in Nepal. It belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet as well as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means ‘house gompa’ after the style of architecture, and harbors many exemplary frescoes as well as wonderfully carved and painted mani stones. Surrounding the gompa are massive, block-like chortens of a unique style and strings of colorful prayer flags fluttering in the winds of Mustang.
The story of Lo Gekar: Samye Gompa, the oldest gompa in Tibet, was repeatedly destroyed by demons when it was being built. The head lama dreamed that Guru Rimpoche could help with the construction and invited him to the site. The great Guru Rimpoche found demons to be the problem, and suggested that they first build Lo Gekar. Guru Rimpoche killed the demons at the spot that Lo Gekar was soon to be constructed. The long mani wall just south of Dhakmar is said to have arisen from the intestines of the demon, and the red cliffs above Dhakmar the blood of the demon. After Lo Gekar was completed, Samye in eastern Tibet was also successfully built.
After a look at the ‘lha-khangs’ or prayer rooms of the gompa, you return down valley to Tsarang for the evening. (B, L, D)
Day 14 – Drive Jomsom 2720m
A private 4WD vehicle is waiting at Tsarang to drive you on an exciting, mountain road back to Jomsom! Once in Jomsom, you’ll be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans, and beautiful textiles are woven by hand looms in the traditional style, readily available for sale. Yak tails to adorn your horses or dust your house are also sold. You have the afternoon free to wander, wash and shop. The Mustang group will stay for the night at Trekkers Inn. (B, L, D)
Optional Muktinath Complex Visit
For those wanting to visit the sacred pilgrimage site at Muktinath, it is do-able the same day by hired (or shared) jeep. Drive 30 minutes from Chhungar to the Muktinath complex, and then return via Ranipawa and Jharkot. Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. Note that it’s a long drive from Tsarang, you many not have time for this visit.
HOTEL NOTE | Option to stay at the wonderful, new boutique hotel The Moksha Mustang in Jomsom for an extra charge. (+$125 per person/per night)
Day 15 – Fly Pokhara + Kathmandu | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
We’ll be up early again for our mountain flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, flying between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South before landing in balmy Pokhara. Transfer to another plane for the short, scenic flight to Kathmandu, 198 east of Pokhara, flying high above the north-south rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. We pass over terraced villages and green hills with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance.
In Kathmandu, you’ll be transferred by Doma Sherpa to the Kathmandu Guest House, where rooms are booked, showers are hot and the garden awaits. Enjoy a last meal and a glass of wine (or two) in Thamel! (B)
TRAVEL NOTE | In the case of flight cancellation out of Jomsom everyone will be responsible for their meals at the Jomsom hotel.
Day 16 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
We send you off to the airport for your flight home, and hope to see you again soon. Namaste! (B)
TRAVEL NOTE | We STRONGLY suggest you add at least one, and perhaps two days in Kathmandu at the end of the trek that allow for flight delays or cancellations leaving Jomsom.
Not Enough of Nepal?
We can suggest at trips to the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, Chitwan + Bardia National Parks. Spend a night at The Old Inn Bandipur (or Three Mountain Lodge on luxury trips) en route to the drive to Pokhara, where you might spend several nights at Temple Tree Resort & Spa. Refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending at least 2 nights at either Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge. Tiger tops also has a heritage lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu. Namaste!
Date & Price
Trip Dates
Custom Departures
15 Days
+ Spring, Summer or Autumn Departures
Horseback Trek Price (Boutique-Luxury Lodges)
$4580
+ Price for 2+ Travelers
+ Single Supplement – $500
+ Domestic Flights Included (4)
+ Upper Mustang ($500) + ACAP Permits Included
+ All Horses, Jeep Support, Lodges, Hotels, Meals + Guide Included
+ During Tiji Festival, Rates at Royal Mustang Resort +$65 Per Room
Horseback Trek Price (Traditional LodgeS)
$4180
+ Price for 2+ Travelers
+ Single Supplement – $150
+ FREE Single Supplement (Single Tents & Kathmandu Guest House)!
+ Domestic Flights Included (4)
+ 18-Day Upper Mustang + ACAP Permits Included
+ Hotel Barahi Upgrade – $65 (Per Room)
+ Om’s Home Upgrade – $45 (Per Room)
+ Trekkers Inn Jomsom – $10 (Single Room)
+ Price for 5+ Trekkers
Hotel & Lodge Upgrades (Camping Trek)
+ Lakeview Resort Single Upgrade A/C Cottage – $50 (Single Room)
+ Hotel Barahi Upgrade – $65 (Per Room)
+ Trekkers Inn Jomsom Single Upgrade – $10
Lodge Room Upgrades (Lodge Trek)
+ Temple Tree Upgrade – $90 Single & $45 Double (Per Person)
+ Maya’s Heritage Inn – $135 Single & $65 Double (Per Person, Deluxe Room)
+ Royal Mustang Resort Deluxe or Suite Room Upgrade – $165 & $250 Deluxe & Suite (Per Room)
+ Tiji Festival Rates Royal Mustang Resort – $65 Per Room
+ Om’s Home Upgrade – $45 (Per Room)
+ The Moksha Upgrade – $375 Single & $200 Double (Per Person), Lunch $30 Dinner $35 (+ 24% Taxes)
Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225
Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes
Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140
Chitwan Extensions | Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge or Barahi Jungle Lodge
$ Inquire
Includes
- Western + Sherpa Guide | Kim + Lhakpa Sherpa
- Upper Mustang Permit
- Annapurna Conservation Area Permit
- Kathmandu Guest House
- Hotels En Route to Trek
- Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
- Airport Transfers
- Domestic Flights + Departure Taxes
- NO Single Supplement on Trek
- Kamzang Journeys Trekking
Marmot, North Face (or similar) expedition tents, gourmet food with seasonal, fresh produce, French Press organic coffee, chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, library with regional books, ‘lounge’ with colorful Indian dhurrie rugs, Crazy Creek camp chairs, blankets, occasional tent music in evenings, oxygen & PAC bag (when needed), full medical kit, horses, yaks or porters, Western, Sherpa & local guides (when needed), our 5-star Kamzang team + (of course) our signature yellow Kamzang dining tent (The Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness). NO single supplement for single tents on our treks!
Safety & Health Precautions
- Thuraya Satellite Phone
- InReach Satellite Messaging System (Free Texts on Trek)
- Updated Route Published on InReach Site
- Helicopter Evacuation Services (excluding cost of evacuation)
- Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
- PAC Bag (Portable Oxygen Chamber)
- Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
- Kayadyn Filtered Drinking Water
- Safe, sanitary, delicious & plentiful food + drinks
Excludes
- International Flights
- Travel Medical + Travel Insurance (both required)
- Nepal Visa
- Helicopter Evacuation
- Meals (while not on trek)
- Monastery Donations
- Equipment Rental
- Alcohol, Sodas & Packaged Drinks
- Laundry
- Tips
Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $300 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.
Map
Highlights & Reviews
Trip Advisor Reviews
Trek Highlights
- Wonderful + Remote Mustang Lodge Trekking!
- Once Forbidden Walled City of Lo Manthang (Lo Monthang)
- Luri Gompa, Tashi Kabum + the Sky Caves of Upper Mustang (Tibetan Buddhist + Burial Caves)
- Ancient, Crumbling Fortresses, Palaces + Vave Hermitages
- The Incredible Buddhist Monasteries + Murals of Upper Mustang
- Remote Trek Through ‘Old Tibet’,
- Khampa Settlements, Tibetan Architecture + Customs
- Camping with Tibetan Nomads with their Yaks, Sheep + Pashmina Goats
- Incredible Sculpted Valleys, Wild Rock Formations, Deep River Gorges + Saligrams
- Remote, Endlessly Fascinating Nar Village
- Classic Scenery of the High Tibetan Plateau
- The Kali Gandaki Gorge + Fossil Collecting
Client Highlights + Reviews
Travelers’ Comments
Clients’ Highlights
Kamzang Journeys trips are, without a doubt, the best way to take a ‘regular’ destination and turn it into a great adventure that goes above and beyond. If a normal tour trip does something, Kamzang Kim will do it better. If the normal itinerary goes to the normal spots, Kamzang Journeys will take you to the less-known, rarely-visited, special and fantastic places. And on top of that? Kim and Lhakpa are a true pleasure to deal with, and make the process fun. The details are taken care of. The camps have a personal touch. Everywhere you go, they know the locals. Everywhere you camp, you feel at home. What more could a trekker ask for?
– Alex P, (Canada) Sky Caves + Last Nomads of Upper Mustang Trek 2017
I have done numerous treks in the Himalayan region over the last 25 years, and I would rate Kamzang Journeys at the top of my list for trekking companies. Excellent service, attention to detail, great food, good equipment, friendly and competent staff. We had far more snow than normal on our March-April trek, and alternate plans were made while sticking as much as possible to the original itinerary. The crew went above and beyond to help us get where we wanted to go. Pay attention to the trip description. They travel to out of the way places and take the more difficult route – on purpose!
– Kate C (USA), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2015
Thanks again for the absolutely spectacular trip, and hopefully we won’t delay nearly as long next time in making our way back to Nepal!
– Anne P (Canada), Nar Phu to Upper Mustang 2014
Thanks for looking after my friends Ian & Adam so well! They were really pleased and very impressed with the arrangements made by Kamzang Journeys and particularly pleased with the guide, Karma, who did a wonderful job of looking after them on their trek. Everything went to their satisfaction and it exceeded their expectations. He’s now got a taste of Nepal and thinking about doing another trek there sometime!
– Viv D (Australia), friend of Paul & Patrick, Private Annapurna Peaks & Villages, Helambu Trek 2014
I have traveled the world and I have never been as cared for as I was in my trek in Nepal. Karma was beyond attentive and professional. He has become family. The very best of Nepal and mankind can be found in this young man.
– Dave M (USA), Annapurna Peaks & Villages 2013
Thank you for making this trip one of the most memorable ones in my lifetime. You have been a friend when I needed one, a leader when the group needed one, an impeccable organizer and a great conversationalist. I marvel at your unlimited energy.
– Shiven M (India + USA), Last Nomads of Mustang 2011
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip + Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Clear Sky, Red Earth: A Himalayan Story – Sienna Craig + Tenzin Norbu
Articles + Documentaries on Mustang
Upper Mustang – Kamzang Journeys Trek | Colin + Pauline’s Blog
Myths & Mountains in Nepal | New York Times
Cave People of the Himalayas | National Geographic
Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic
Lost Treaures of Tibet | PBS Documentary
The Ancient Mysteries of Mustang’s Caves | BBC
Sky Caves of Nepal | National Geographic
Cave People of the Himalaya | PBS
New Death Ritual Found in Himalaya | National Geographic
Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge | Al Jazeera
Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge (YouTube) | Al Jazeera
Foreign Correspondent: The Road | ABC
Mustang: Lives & Landscape of the Lost Tibetan Kingdom | Photo Essay – Global Oneness Project
Before They Pass Away (Photos) | Jimmy Nelson
Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art
Nepal Diary: A Gift of Sight Expedition
Buddhists, Reconstructing Sacred Tibetan Murals, Wield Their Brushes in Nepal | New York Times
Earth Door Sky Door – Paintings of Mustang by Robert Powell | Asian Art
How Tibetans Survive on the Roof of the World |
A Fortress in the Sky: The Last Forbidden Kingdom of Tibetan Culture (Photo Essay) | Washington Post
Himalayan Healers | Nepali Times
Mustang, the Kingdom of Lo (parts from Kamzang Journeys)
Last King of Mustang Dies at 86 – My Republica
Last King of Remote Buddhist Kingdom Dies in Nepal – Indian Express
Documentary Movies on Mustang
Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic | Leisl Clark (Director)YouTube Download
YouTube Preview
Mustang: Hidden World Beyond the Himalaya | Ghang-Tuk Tsokpa Film (Available in Kathmandu)
Contact & Details
Kamzang Journeys Contact
Kim Bannister
kim@kamzang.com
kamzangkim@gmail.com
Mobile: +(977) 9803414745 (WhatsApp), 9863196743
On-Trek Satellite Phone: +88216 21277980 (Nepal)
Kathmandu Contact
Khumbu Adventures
hiking.guide@gmail.com
Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841235461, 9705235461
Doma Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841510833, 9705510833
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa Mobile: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)
Follow Us on Facebook
Kamzang Journeys Facebook
Kathmandu Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House
Nepal Tourist Visas
You can get your Nepal visa at TIA International Airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home at a Nepali Embassy or Consulate. When you arrive at immigration in Kathmandu, scan your passport at the visa machines (no photo needed) or produce your online, printed visa-on-arrival form, pay the visa fee, and go to the appropriate immigration line.
15 Days – $30
30 Days – $50
90 Days – $125
Tourist Visa Extension (15 days) – $45 (+$3 Additional Day))
Nepal Visa
Nepal Visa Information
Kathmandu Guest House
Ward: 16, Street name: Saatghumti, Area: Thamel, District: Bagmati, City: Kathmandu, Zone: Bagmati, Phone: +977 14700004
Health Information
Nepal Health Information
CDC
We also recommend bringing probiotics with you to help prevent infections while on trek. Doctor’s recommendation!
Travel Medical Insurance
Required for your own safety. We carry a copy of your insurance with all contact, personal and policy information with us on the trek and our office in Kathmandu keeps a copy. Note that we almost always trek over 4000 meters (13,000′) and that we don’t do any technical climbing with ropes, ice axes or crampons.
Global Rescue Rescue Services
We recommend (but don’t require) that our trekkers sign up for Global Rescue services as a supplement to your travel medical insurance. You can book this directly through our Kamzang Journeys site.
Global Rescue
Medical On-Trek
Please do have a full check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety. Your guides bring a small medical kit, but you’ll want your own medications with you.
DO bring all prescription medications and rehydration powders-electrolytes. We advise bringing your own Diamox, Ciprofloxin, Azithromycin + Augmentin. We do have all of these with us, but the Western versions are generally more reliable than the Indian equivalents. See Gear List for a full list of recommended medications for the trek.
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Notes on Itinerary
Although we try to follow our trek itinerary, it is ONLY a guideline based on years of experience trekking in many Himalayan regions. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group’s acclimatization rate or sickness, or improved campsites and lodges.
The Himalaya are our passion, and we take our trekking and cycling trips seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure …
Arrival Kathmandu
Arrival in Kathmandu
You will be met at the airport by a representative from Khumbu Adventures (see Contact & Details tab). Look for a sign with your name on it as you leave the airport. You will be transferred to the Kathmandu Guest House where your rooms have been pre-booked … Please hydrate!
Nepal Tourist Visas
You can get your Nepal visa at TIA International Airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home at a Nepali Embassy or Consulate. When you arrive at immigration in Kathmandu, scan your passport at the visa machines (no photo needed) or produce your online, printed visa-on-arrival form, pay the visa fee, and go to the appropriate immigration line.
15 Days – $30
30 Days – $50
90 Days – $125
Tourist Visa Extension (15 days) – $45 (+$3 Additional Day))
Nepal Visa
Nepal Visa Information
Kathmandu Guest House
Ward: 16, Street name: Saatghumti, Area: Thamel, District: Bagmati, City: Kathmandu, Zone: Bagmati, Phone: +977 14700004
Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House
International Medical Center Kathmandu
CIWEC
Nepal Temperatures + Clothing
See Gear Tab for trekking and cycling clothing, as well as medical supplies recommendations.
Kathmandu during the spring and autumn trekking seasons is usually quite warm (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirts) during the day, and gets chilly (light fleece or jacket) in the late afternoon and evenings. Nights can be cold enough for a sweater and/or jacket, or warm enough for t-shirts. Summer is hotter and wetter, and you’ll need a rain jacket and umbrella. The winter months (late Nov – March) are chilly in the mornings and evenings, cold enough that you might start the day in a down jacket, but often warming up enough to wear a t-shirt by mid-day. Nights get cold enough for a down jacket if you’re sitting outside, although many restaurants have heaters or fire pits. It never snows in Kathmandu. Keens, Chacos or other hiking sandals are great for wandering around Kathmandu, and for trekking in lower altitudes. Crocs are good to have for rooms, showers and at camp when trekking or cycling.
Trekking is a mixed bag of temperatures. LAYERS are the key as hot can change quickly to freezing crossing the passes and snowfalls are common. We often have some rain below 3000 meters in the spring and early autumn, and it can rain hard in the summer. Have a wide range of layer-able trekking clothes for summer to winter temperatures. Keep a lightweight down jacket or synthetic jacket with you at all times, available inexpensively in Kathmandu. A lightweight rain poncho and umbrella for trekking are recommended in the spring and summer seasons. Be prepared! See our ‘Gear’ tab for full details on gear, shoes, clothing, electronics, and meds for the trek.
There are lots of real gear shops (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Sherpa Gear, OR) and many ‘fake’ and Nepali-made shops in Kathmandu, so if you don’t think you have the right gear starting the trip, it is easy to pick up gear once in Kathmandu. We have sleeping bags to rent, duffel bags, camp towels and buffs to purchase, and you’ll get a FREE Kamzang Journeys t-shirt for the trip!
Dress conservatively in Kathmandu and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are okay if they aren’t too short, short mini skirts aren’t recommended. Sleeveless t-shirts are absolutely fine, but perhaps avoid skimpy tank tops on the trail. Super tight lycra and very skimpy doesn’t go over so well with village elders or remote villagers, and will generally limit your ability to have meaningful interactions with Nepali villagers. Many of the younger generation in Nepal wear modern Indian or Western-influenced clothes but remember that you haven’t signed up for a beach or surf vacation. Use your good judgment, and be an ambassador for western travelers! Please ask Kim or your guide if unsure about appropriate clothing, we’re always happy to advise.
Nepal Cultural Issues
Nepalis are very open and welcoming, but there are a few issues you should be aware of to make your stay in Nepal more fulfilling. Use your right hand to pass things, shake hands or do most anything. Left hands are somewhat taboo. Nepalis often place their left hand on the right forearm when passing things to others, a sign of respect. Best not to pat kids on heads, or point feet ahead of you at monasteries. Don’t walk over someone’s legs or feet, but put your hand down in front of you to signal them to pull their legs to the side. Take off shoes and hats when going into Buddhist monasteries and Hindu temples, don’t use flashes inside monasteries or temples if possible and be respectful when attending pujas (prayer ceremonies). You can talk and move around, all religious are very tolerant, but be aware of your level of voice and where you are walking. Don’t sit on Buddhist monastery benches, they are used as tables. You will often be shown to low, carpeted sitting areas in the back of a monastery. If you’re served tea, it’s fine to accept (in fact, the servers will be happy to give you tea), but also fine to say ‘no thank you’, putting your hand up. If you don’t want more tea, often the salt-butter variety, simply cover your cup with your hand.
Nepalis don’t anger quickly in general, so try not to raise your voice if exasperated or angry as it only will make the situation worse. Do bargain at shops, with taxis and rickshaws, but don’t fleece people as many people are quite poor and need to make a living. Give small donations on the streets if you choose to, but try not to encourage begging and be aware of who you are giving your money to. If you do want to donate to a good cause, ask about our Kamzang Fund or other responsible organizations.
Tips for Staff
We recommend $250-300 per person to go into the tip pool for the staff, which can be given to Kim in Kathmandu in $US. We also pitch in to buy our incredible staff drinks on the last night, or any other night that you feel like treating them to a bottle of Kukure Rum or a few beers!
Tips in General
Tips are always appreciated but they don’t need to be extravagant. 100-300 NRP to carry bags to/from your room is fine, the women who clean your room will be happy with 200-300 NRP when you leave, and 300-500 NRP is great for your airport transfers. Round-up taxi fares, in general. A larger tip would be expected for a day trip in a private car, perhaps 500 NRP, and a tour guide might get 500-100 NRP. 10% is included in most restaurant and hotel bills in Nepal, and if it’s not included it’s still expected. You can round-up the restaurant bills as well.
Cash, Credit Cards & ATMs
ATMs are available all over Kathmandu, and give up to 25,000 NRP per transaction, in general. You can also change money at the hotel counter (a good rate usually) or just outside the hotel at any of the money changers. They’re quite competitive. You’ll want cash in NRP with you on the trek for local shopping, drinks, beers, snacks, beer, laundry and charging electronics. There are usually local crafts and textiles to buy along the way as well! Credit cards are accepted at hotels, most larger restaurants and cafes, and most of the larger gear, craft and pashmina shops in Kathmandu.
Pampering Yourself & Shopping in Kathmandu
We’re happy to book your rooms before or after the trek at boutique and luxury hotels, resorts and spas in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley. We’re happy to help with advice on where to purchase the most authentic crafts, pashmina or other hand-made Nepali products in Kathmandu. We sell local handicrafts at our Cafe Caravan at Boudha, as well as delicious cakes, coffees, meals and snacks.
Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Prints & Paintings
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, and more recently the artist Tenzing Samdup also sells his Dolpo prints at the cafe. We also have an extensive selection of ‘caravan’ handicrafts, coffees, teas, t-shirts, ceramic mugs and Himalayan books for sale …
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Journeys duffel bags, Kamzang Journeys t-shirts, Kamzang Journeys camp towels, Kamzang Journeys buffs, handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes and bags, handcrafted Himalayan textile pillow covers and more unique, handcrafted tribal silver and Himalayan textiles available from Kim here in Kathmandu.
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop
Great Stays
See our ‘Great Stays’ tab for our picks of some of the best heritage, boutique or interesting hotels, guest houses, and lodges in the Kathmandu Valley and elsewhere in Nepal.
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing & Tours
See our Kathmandu Tours tab for lots of idea of how to experience the real Nepal.
Kathmandu & Kathmandu Valley Information
Our ‘Insider’ list of things to do, places to go, what to visit, the most happening restaurants and the best hotels in Kathmandu and the beautiful Kathmandu Valley.
Happenings in Kathmandu
Gear
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Journeys duffel bags, t-shirts, camp towels and buffs. Handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes and bags, unique Himalayan textile pillow covers, cashmere stoles and more!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Gear List
A guideline, not a bible, for the gear you will (probably) need on the trek. Do ask (or send gear links) if you have questions! Everyone has their own method of gearing-ups for the mountain, so although these suggestions are based on 20+ years in the Himalayan regions, they may not be exactly what you bring on a trek. Layers are essential for trekking, and quality is more important than quantity. It’s worth investing in some new, warm, lightweight trekking gear! Kim will check your gear before the trek, if needed.
One duffel bag per person. The airline regulations allow 15 kg per person for mountain flights (including your daypack). We find ways to adjust, but be aware of this limitation and please try to limit your duffel bag and daypack combined to no more than 20 kg (50 lbs) total.
- Duffel Bag
- Day Pack (30-40 L)
- Sleeping Bag (-20 to 0F/-15 to -25C Recommended. NOTE the lodges in the Everest region have quilts or duvets in the rooms, so your sleeping bag doesn’t need to be quite as warm. Other trekking regions do not necessarily provide quilts or duvets)
- Trekking Boots, Trekking Shoes &/or Running Shoes
- Crocs (Evenings & Washing)
- Down Jacket(s) &/or Vests (Can be Lightweight Down Jackets. Layering Recommended)
- Wind/Rain Jacket & Pants (Inquire for Your Trek)
- Trekking Pants (2)
- T-Shirts (2)
- Long-Sleeve Shirts (2)
- Technical Jacket (Depending on Other Jackets)
- Thermal (Lightweight) Top & Bottom
- Evening Thermal Top & Bottom (Synthetic &/or Down Pants Optional)
- Socks (3-5)
- Down Booties (Optional)
- Gloves (Lighter Pair & Heavier Pair for Passes)
- Thermal Hat
- Baseball Cap &/or Wide-Brimmed Hat
- Camp Towel
- Trekking Poles (Recommended)
- Micro Spikes (REQUIRED for Passes. INQUIRE)
- Sunglasses (Extra Pair Recommended)
- Reading Glasses (Extra Pair Recommended)
- Head Lamp (Extra Recommended)
- Water Bottles | Nalgenes (2-3)
- Water Bladder (Optional, Recommended)
- Watch (with Alarm)
- Battery Chargers & Extra Batteries
- Camera or Smart Phone (Optional)
- USB Adapter with Multiple Ports (Recommended)
- SteriPen &/or Squeeze Filter Bottle (Optional)
- Travel Umbrella (Optional)
- Laundry Detergent or Bio-degradable Clothes Soap (Purchase in Mountains)
- Book(s) or Kindle &/or Audiobooks
- Zip-Lock | Plastic Bags
- Toilet Paper
- Toiletries
- SPF Sunscreen & Lip Balm
- Personal Medical Supplies
- Hand Sanitizers (Small)
- Reusable Wipes (Recommended, Not Single Use)
- Rehydration | Electrolytes (Required)
- Snacks (Required, Namche)
Available in Namche Bazaar
- Snacks, Chocolate, Snack Bars, Dried Fruit & Nuts
- Laundry Detergent
- Most Trekking Gear (Real + Knock-offs)
- Lemon Tang (Make Lemonade!)
- Batteries
- Trekking Poles
- Micro Spikes
Shopping & Snacks in Nepal
Almost all gear is now available in Kathmandu, from real (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Sherpa Gear, Marmot or at some shops in Thamel) to inexpensive knock-offs or good Nepali brands. The real gear shops take credit cards. There are many camera and mobile shops, and you can pick up good quality chocolate, snack bars (including gluten free, organic and vegan) and lots of other varieties dried fruits, nuts and snacks in Kathmandu. And, of course, you can shop for pashminas (or cashmere, or fakes, please ask if unsure), good quality silver, handicrafts and locally produced specialty products. We also have a large variety of good quality, unique handicrafts at Café Caravan in Boudhanath.
Lodge Note
Inside the lodge dining rooms, the wood or yak-dung stoves heat the room very well and you’ll often strip down to a t-shirt! Mornings and evenings in your rooms are chilly to cold though, and before the fires are lit you’ll want to put on your thermals! In the Everest region, there are always duvets or quilts available, but not always in other trekking regions, so bring an appropriate sleeping bag for your trek.
Suggested Medical Supplies
Your guide will have a have a small medical kit, including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, bandages, re-hydration, antihistimines, painkillers and anti-inflammatory drugs. Please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety!
SUGGESTED MEDS | Dexamethasone, Nifedipine & Diamox (altitude), Azithromycin, Ciprofloxacin & Augmentin (antibiotics), blister bandages, Tegaderm &/or bandages, knee & ankle supports/braces (if required), ACE bandage for sprains & strains, cough drops.
Bring whatever pain meds you generally use (Ibuprofen, Paracetamol/Tylenol, Diclofenac), meds for diarrhea (Loperamide/Imodium) and nausea (Ondansetron), antihistamines (non-drowsy & Benadryl is good for a drowsy antihistamine that might help with sleep), as well as any medications that you take regularly or that your doctor prescribes. We recommend picking up a combination Salmeterol & Fluticasone inhaler locally, good for (from a doctor trekking friend) “high altitude cough due to reactive airways, which is kind of like temporary asthma. The ingredients in the inhaler relax the bronchial passages and calm inflammation in the airways.”Stay away from sleeping medications, drugs in the codeine-opiate-narcotic family and other drugs that suppress your breathing (not a good at altitude). And don’t forget electrolytes! Have some with you in your pack (as well as snacks) daily …
We’re happy to take excess medical supplies off your hands when you leave if you won’t need them. We use lots of the large amount we have with us to treat locals, our staff and our trekkers…
Kim’s Gear Suggestions
I generally wear a trekking t-shirt, trekking pants, a mid-weight long-sleeve shirt, a lightweight synthetic jacket (sometimes paired with a vest), often starting the morning in a lightweight pair of long underwear. I carry a lightweight wind-rain jacket and pants, an extra pair of socks, gloves, a baseball cap and hat in my daypack, and on colder days also have a lightweight down jacket with me.
I use a 35 L Osprey daypack with a bladder, and an extra Nalgene to refill water on the trail, and often use trekking poles. I generally trek in running shoes, although I use boots on very cold days and over passes, and sometimes on hot days I also trek in Keen or Chaco sandalas. I often carry Crocs with me in case of river crossings and to give my feet a break at lunch (Tevas, Chacos and Keen sandals take a long time to dry and are relatively heavy), and I carry micro-spikes on pass days. I always have snacks, electrolytes, my camera or iPhone, sunscreen, hand sanitizer and some toilet paper, a small medical kit and a SteriPen.
Good trekking boots or running shoes that you’ve hiked in before the trek are essential. You don’t ever need climbing or plastic boots (for mini-crampons or micro-spikes). Trekking poles are not required but strongly recommended, especially for going down passes which are often steep and icy, and for treks with river crossings and rocky trails. Bring gators if you tend to use them but they’re not required if you don’t own a pair. Micro-spikes (mini-crampons) or YakTrax are useful (or essential) for pass crossings (inquire before the trek). We have an ice ax and rope with us during some treks for pass crossing days, for extra safety.
Good (polarized) sunglasses are essential. Do bring an extra pair in case you lose or break them. Don’t forget a sun hat and/or a baseball cap, perhaps an extra headlamp, and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF! Don’t get caught with blistered lips that don’t heal at altitude!
Nights are chilly to very cold, so a down jacket(s) and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. We recommend a down sleeping bag of -10 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C). Mine is -20 F. At lower altitudes I open it and sleep under it like a quilt, and up higher am toasty warm during cold nights. NOTE sleeping bag ratings don’t correspond to how warm they need to be at altitude. Campsites at higher altitudes can be freezing at night and in the morning. The dining tent is a Tibetan style ‘yurt’ with cotton rugs (dhurries), tables and camp chairs on the ground. It warms up in the evenings when everyone is inside having soup, but it is still important to have warm clothes for the evenings. I change into thermals for the evening at camp and to sleep in when we get to camp; stretchy yoga pants over thermal underwear, light down vest and/or jacket over thermal layers. I love my down (or synthetic) booties at night in the tent! We have blankets for everyone if needed, and we even have a small propane heater on some treks …
Bring XL plastic bags or stuff sacks in your daypack in case of rain. The weather is changeable in the Himalaya, so we recommend that everyone has a strong, waterproof duffel bag for the trek. We supply covers that go over the duffel bags to protect them from rain, dirt + rips.
Day Pack
We recommend a 30-45 liter day pack. Better to have it too large than too small as on pass days you’ll need to carry more warm gear, and you can always cinch daypacks down. Many packs come with internal water bladders, or you can purchase them separately; very good for ensuring that you stay hydrated. Make sure your pack fits comfortably when loaded before bringing it trekking!!
In your day pack, you’ll carry your camera or phone, approx 2 liters of water, a jacket, lightweight wind and/or rain pants (often), a thermal hat, a baseball cap or sun hat, a buff (optional, but great to have on dusty trails), gloves, sunscreen, snacks, electrolytes, maybe something to purify water, hand sanitizer, a small bit of medical supplies, a pack-cover and often a lightweight down jacket. I slip my Crocs in for lunchtime stops or unexpected river crossings, and almost always carry a lightweight down jacket!
Drinking Water
We bring KATADYN (or equivalent) expedition-sized water filters along on the trek for fresh drinking water, ecologically the best way to get water in the Himalaya’s fragile trekking regions. Bring your own SteriPen or Sawyer squeeze filter for a back-up filtered water system during the day if you already have one. We bring ours as well, so this is optional. Please bring at least 2 Nalgene or other water bottles in addition to your water bladder.
WATER NOTE | We do not provide boiled water for filling water bottles on our camping treks although there is endless hot water for herbal, black or green teas, hot chocolate, hot lemon as well as delicious Indian chai and Kashmiri tea.
Snacks
You will NEED snacks hiking at altitude, even if you’re not a big snacker. Bring your favorite energy bars, gels, chocolate bars, dried fruit and nuts, jerky or whatever else gives you quick energy. Emergen-C and/or other electrolyte mixes are important in water bottles or before or after the trekking day; it is ESSENTIAL to bring electrolytes with you in your day packs in case you cramp up, get diarrhea or otherwise need them.
Rentals
We have (approximately) 0F super-down sleeping bags to rent for $2.50 per day on our Nepal & Tibet treks. You might want a warmer sleeping bag (I use a -20F); if so, please do bring your own, as we want you to be warm while sleeping at night!
Packing & Extra Gear Storage
It’s easy to pack and unpack from a duffel bag, especially when the temperature drops. It’s a good idea to invest in a strong, waterproof duffel such as a North Face or one of our Kamzang Journeys duffels. You can store extra gear and computers at the hotel while we’re trekking.
Shopping & Snacks in Nepal
Almost all gear is now available in Kathmandu, from real (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Sherpa Gear, Marmot or at some shops in Thamel) to inexpensive knock-offs or good Nepali brands. The real gear shops take credit cards. There are many camera and mobile shops, and you can pick up good quality chocolate, snack bars (including gluten free, organic and vegan) and lots of other varieties dried fruits, nuts and snacks in Kathmandu. And, of course, you can shop for pashminas (or cashmere, or fakes, please ask if unsure), good quality silver, handicrafts and locally produced specialty products. We also have a large variety of good quality, unique handicrafts at Café Caravan in Boudhanath.
Upper Mustang
Mustang is a center of the sky, the middle of the earth, the head of all rivers where horses grow swift.’
– Sienna Craig, ‘Horses Like Lightning’
Upper Mustang
Formerly the Kingdom of Lo and a part of the Western Tibetan Kingdom of Ngari, ‘forbidden’ Mustang has lured intrepid travelers to its remote realm for centuries, but only the most adventurous made it to this mountainous and inaccessible bastion of Tibetan Buddhism and its mythical walled city of Lo Manthang.
People have inhabited this harsh region for thousands of years, some of the early dwellers living or meditating in ancient caves, rich in Buddhist art, which pepper the bizarre rock formations. Mustang became part of the Yarlung Dynasty of central Tibet, later falling under the jurisdiction of the Malla Kingdom of Nepal (Jumla) and in the fifteenth century, the independent Kingdom of Lo was founded, ruling such other remote regions as Dolpo. It was only incorporated into the Kingdom of Nepal in 1951. Soon afterwards, renegade Khampa freedom fighters battling the Chinese used Mustang as a base of operations, and it was closed to all Westerners until 1992.
This mythical land north of the 8000-meter peaks Annapurna and Dhaulagiri still requires a special restricted area permit to enter, and numbers are limited, thus helping to preserve its unique heritage. There are 9 sacred kabums, or cave monasteries, in Mustang, and an estimated 10,000 caves. Ka = ‘teaching of Buddha’ & bum = ‘rimpoche’.
A Brief History Of Mustang
+ 7th century: Mustang was part of the Tibetan empire, and the mystic Milarepa spent a summer here in 651.
+ 11th century: Upper Mustang had followed the Bon religion, based on a cult of royal tombs and sacrifices. Upper Mustang was visited by masters from southwest Tibet. Lo was ruled by kings of western Tibet, and Buddhism was reestablished.
+ 13th -14th century: In the 13th century a Kashmiri scholar from Tibet, Sherap Rinchin, visited Mustang and translated 5 texts of the Tengyur. During the 13th & 14th centuries, Mustang was ruled by kings of Guntang in Tibet and protected by the fort in Muktinath. They had close ties with the Sakya sect of Buddhism in Tibet, which had the patronage of the Yuan dynasty in China. The fortresses may have been built to protect Mustang against the rulers of Jumla.
+ 14th century: There had been a practice of cremating 1/2 dozen men alive whenever a man died until the 14th century, which was put to an end along with the slaughter of animals. The Tibetan governor of Guntang’s son, Chokyongbum, reconquered the western Tibet region of Purang (1380s) and gained governorship of Purang Fort (Barang?), presiding over Lo & Dolpo.
+ 14th – 15th century: Chokyongbum’s son Ampel extended Lo’s rule to include Purang and western Tibet. Lo gained independence from Guntang and gained an important fortress at Khochoe Dzong, just above Lo Manthang.
+ 15th – early 17th century: Mustang went to war with Tibet in the 15th century. Mustang was called the Kingdom of Lo, and then dominated the salt trade along the Kali Gandaki River and throughout the Tibetan region . It was a wealthy and powerful region.
+ 17th century: Mustang was forced to pay levies (taxes) to the Kingdom of Jumla and came under their extended Kingdom.
+ 1795: Jumla was defeated by the Gorkhas and the Kingdom of Lo (Mustang) transferred its allegiances to Gorkha, which by then was the capital of a unified Nepal.
+ 1855: Lo supported Nepal against the Tibetans. The King of Nepal thus allowed the King of Mustang to keep his title of ‘Raja of Mustang’ although he had little political power.
+ Sadly the previous King of Mustang, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, passed away in Dec 2016. His son, Jigme-La, is the current King of Mustang.
History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital. Legend has it that the palace in Lo Manthang was constructed after Ame Pal send a goddess to find an auspicious spot, and she landed at the site of the present palace. The summer palace at Tinggar was built later, and was used mostly by the earlier kings during the summer months. Later kings spent their summers in Lo Manthang and their winters in Kathmandu. Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gonpas (monasteries) and murals in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings.
The Raja’s palace, home to the former King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (from an aristocratic Lhasa family, now living at Royal Mustang Resort), is the largest building inside the city walls. Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (abbot) were allowed to ride. All others had to walk through the gate to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. Former King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, was the last king to reside at the four-storied palace inside the city walls, in disrepair but presently being rebuilt. The king was an avid horseman and kept his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, Lo Gyalpo, the king of Mustang, plays a somewhat ceremonial role although they have always been well-loved and respected throughout Mustang. Jigme-La, the present king of Mustang, is the 27th descendent of Ame Pal.
Within the walls of Lo Manthang is an interesting maze of village lanes to explore, cafes, hotels, shops, stupas and mani walls. The inhabitants of Lo Manthang are called Lo-pas (Lobas). There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry. There are even yeti (known in Mustangi as mehti) prints rumored to be found in the region.
Buddhist Monasteries of Lo Monthang
There are four major monasteries within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang. The 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang, constructed in 1387, is the oldest gonpa, with a striking 50-foot ‘Jampa’ (future) Buddha statue, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago. The 15th c Thubchen Gompa boasts a Great Assembly Hall with pillars 30 feet high, and is the second oldest gonpa in Lo Manthang, with fantastic murals in the dukhang (assembly hall). The Chhoede Gonpa complex, where the present abbot (Kempo) resides, includes a large monastic school, a museum, and the older Choprang Gompa.
Birdlife
Hill and rock pigeons, crag martins, rose finches, pied wagtails, rock buntings, black redstarts, impeyan pheasants, grandala, snowcock and white-capped river chats, Himalayan griffin, lammergeiers, golden eagles (and many more).
Wildlife
Snow leopards, black bear, marmot, lynx, black wolf (chango), Himalayan wooly hare, blue sheep, red fox, pikas (and more).
Sky Caves (Burial Caves)
There are three distinct cultural phases of the Annapurna Conservation Area: Chokhopani (3150–2400 years ago), Mebrak (2400–1850 years ago), and Samdzong (1750–1250 years ago). The ‘sky caves’ found in Upper Mustang relate to one of these three periods.
“The cold and dry conditions of the Himalayan sites have resulted in extraordinary ancient DNA preservation. In some cases, more than 50 percent of the DNA recovered from prehistoric skeletal remains is endogenous, or of local origin. In the Upper Mustang region of Nepal, thousands of rock-cut tombs are scattered across towering Himalayan cliff faces. It’s only in the last few decades that archaeologists—led by expert climbers—have been able to explore these remote “sky caves.” They’ve discovered a wealth of artifacts, including intact silk fabric, bronze jewelry, and bamboo baskets still full of rice among skeletons of people laid to rest hundreds of years ago.
Scientists recently sequenced the whole genomes of eight individuals found in these ancient chambers, revealing the secrets of the first inhabitants of the Himalayas. It turns out their descendants still live in the region. The researchers published their findings yesterday in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. “The big question we had was, ‘Who were these people?’ We didn’t really have any idea where they came from,” Christina Warinner, a senior author of the new study and an anthropologist at the University of Oklahoma, told Mental Floss.
Thousands of human-made caves dot the Himalayan landscape. Since prehistory, these caves have been used as tombs, dwellings, and apartments. Image credit: Christina Warinner Though strategically located between the Indian subcontinent and the Tibetan plateau, the Himalayan high mountain valleys were among the last places on Earth to be colonized by humans—and it’s easy to see why. Little rain, meager vegetation, and low levels of oxygen make it difficult to live there. The first known settlers only arrived a little more than 3000 years ago. But where those first intrepid people arrived from has been a matter of debate.
Some archaeological similarities had suggested that the first Himalayan settlers came from the south. But by looking at the ancient DNA, Warinner and her colleagues found that the first inhabitants of the Himalayas came down from the north, from East Asian populations of the Tibetan plateau. Their genetic profile most closely resembles modern-day Sherpa and Tibetan populations.
“Each one of these cultures is associated with significant changes in artifacts as well as changes in mortuary practices, which archaeologists typically see as a reflection of religious beliefs. The earliest Chokhopani tombs date back to about 3150 years ago and contain artifacts like jewelry made from faience, bronze, and copper, as well as ceramic, wooden, and stone objects among the dead, who were buried in groups. The Mebrak tombs of the next cultural phase often contained a more elaborate set of grave goods, including the mummified heads of sheep and goats, and disarticulated horse remains. The dead were also placed on decorated wooden platforms.
A gruesome new death ritual—defleshing—was introduced during the Samdzong culture (1750–1250 years ago), according to recent excavations led by Mark Aldenderfer, of the University of California, Merced (who is also an author on the new study). Cut marks on the bones suggest that the bodies were stripped of their flesh before being laid out on wooden platforms—a practice that may have been adopted from Zoroastrians of West Asia and that may have in turn influenced the Tibetan “sky burials” of later periods. Perhaps this influence was made possible by the Samdzongs’ connection to the Silk Road, which the archaeologists recently discovered thanks to well-preserved cloth artifacts.
“If it was the same population through all these cultural phases, that’s pretty amazing, because other places around the world that experience that much cultural change are typically associated with a turnover in population or a conquest event,” Warinner said.
Local villagers assist with the identification of 1500-year-old artifacts recovered from prehistoric cliff tombs at the site of Samdzong, Nepal.
The study also marks the first five whole genomes to be published for ancient people from East Asia (excluding Siberia). “There’s been very little work done on whole ancient genomes anywhere outside of Europe,” Warinner said. That’s because the first labs to do this type of analysis were in Europe, where there also is a wealth of well-preserved ancient European human remains. Warinner is hopeful that with improvements in the study of ancient DNA, scientists can start to study samples from overlooked places, like archaeological sites closer to the equator, where preservation of human remains isn’t as stellar. “The field of ancient DNA has matured dramatically in the last five years,” Warinner said. “We’ve entered the golden age of paleogenomics, where we can actually do full genomic studies of ancient people.”
– Ancient DNA Sequenced from “Sky Cave” Burials in Nepal, mentalfloss.com
“Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo in northern Nepal, is home to one of the world’s great archaeological mysteries. In this dusty, wind-savaged place, hidden within the Himalayas and cleaved by the Kali Gandaki River, are approximately 10,000 human-built caves. In the mid-1990s, archaeologists from Nepal and the University of Cologne began exploring the stacked caves and found several dozen bodies, all at least 2,000 years old. Since then, groups have continued to investigate the remote Upper Mustang site, but no-one has discovered who built the caves.”
“From Tombs to Homes. Scientists divide cave use in Upper Mustang into three periods. As early as 1000 BC, the caves were used as burial chambers. During the 10th Century, the region is thought to have been frequently battled over, and consequently, placing safety over convenience, families moved into the caves, turning them into living quarters. By the 1400s, the caves functioned as meditation chambers, military lookouts or storage units as people moved into villages.”
“In 2010, a team of mountaineers and archaeologists uncovered 27 human remains in Samdzong’s two biggest caves. The relatively intact skeletons – dating from the 3rd to the 8th Centuries, before Buddhism came to Mustang – had cut marks on the bones. Scientists believe that this burial ritual may have been related to the Buddhist practice of sky burial: to this day, when a citizen of Mustang dies, the body is sliced into small pieces, bones included, to be swiftly snatched up by vultures.”
– The Ancient Mysteries of Mustang’s Caves, BBC
“In the 1990s, a high Himalayan cave in Upper Mustang, Nepal was discovered to contain 42 ancient people, buried on wooden bunk beds. American archaeologist Dr. Mark Aldenderfer believes there must be more burial caves … (His) theory is the funerary caves were carved out by the earliest people to have settled in the Himalaya. If he can find their remains and extract their DNA, he’ll learn who these people were and what brought them to the toughest parts of the planet to live.
A series of burial caves are discovered above the riverbed, with human remains spilling forth from dangerously eroding caves … (They) recover bones from a total of 27 individuals: adult men, women, adolescents, even infants, along with their goats, cows and a horse. Wood inside the caves provides the clue that bunk beds must have housed the bones at one time.
Upon cleaning and taking painstakingly detailed observations of each bone, Eng discovers that 63 percent of the bones have cut marks on them, clear evidence of defleshing! Aldenderfer’s quest takes an unexpected turn toward the macabre as he begins to trace the mortuary practices of Himalayan peoples, including the distinct sky burial rituals of the people of Upper Mustang today, where they cut up the flesh and bones of their dead and offer them to birds of prey. Could this modern practice, which dates back to the eighth century, be somehow related to the early peoples found with cut marks in Mustang’s caves? Aldenderfer thinks so. Carbon dating reveals the cave people were from the 5th century. Their practice of defleshing bones was likely a precursor funerary ritual that eventually led to the development of what is known as sky burial by ethnically Tibetan peoples today.
Another cave tomb discovery, however, reveals to Aldenderfer that Mustang was home to a mosaic of cultures, all practicing different means of disposing of their dead. This cave has no bunk beds and there’s no evidence of cut marks on the skeletal remains. (He) discloses that the dead were put into pits with multiple layers of sticks and stones. By analyzing the ceramics inside the burial cave, Aldenderfer concludes that the people interred inside date to approximately 1000 BC. This culture, likely different from the defleshed peoples found a little further north, was one among many, Aldenderfer believes, that traveled along Upper Mustang’s Kali Gandaki River Valley trade route. Aldenderfer’s cave people and their differing mortuary practices prove that the Kali Gandaki was a major trade artery connecting migrating people, their goods and their evolving funeral rituals with the well-traveled and highly influential Silk Road, further to the north.”?
– Excerpts from National Geographic Special: Cave People of the Himalaya, produced by National Geographic Television & Liesl Clark, Sky Door Films
“Till now, the most interesting archaeological finds in Upper Mustang were sky caves containing human remains 1,500 years old, and scriptures and textiles suggesting the region’s links to the ancient Silk Road. But recently, Fidel Devkota, an anthropologist has discovered 90 rock paintings made of red and yellow ochre that he says could rewrite the history of the people of this part of Nepal that juts into the Tibetan Plateau. The paintings of wild yaks, horses and other animals, with depictions of the crescent moon and human figures, were found on rock faces in the Kya and Ludak Valleys in the eastern part of Mustang.
“The paintings and inscriptions are different in style, execution, composition and placement, suggesting that they are from various historical periods,” says Devkota, who had been documenting the impact of climate change in Mustang for the past 10 years when he came across the rock art which are in such a remote location, even local herders didn’t know of them. At the Kya Valley site, the paintings were found on a cliff facing southeast towards Bhrikuti Himal, and although the Ludak rock art site is exposed it was only found three years ago.
Devkota collaborated with John Vincent Bellezza, an archaeologist and cultural historian specialising on Tibet, and the two have jointly published a paper, ‘Obscured for Centuries: The Lost Rock Art of Lo Mustang’, documenting the discovery. As carbon dating has not yet been done, Belleza compared the rock art and inscriptions, based on Devkota’s photographs, with the rock art in western Tibet, Sipti and Ladakh. He dates some of the paintings as far back as pre-7th century CE.
“The first phase of paintings is prehistoric but the later phases are clearly motivated by Buddhism and Yungdrung Bon religious practices,” writes Devkota in the paper. The rock art depicts hunting and other wild animal-human interaction, birth giving, anthropomorphic portraits, tiered shrines and other sacred symbols. Belleza writes that the rock art in Kya and Ludak focuses on the beliefs, values and activities of the painters, although pinpointing their specific traditions is difficult. It is also difficult to discern whether the artists were pastoralists or agriculturists or both.
Given that the Shar-ri region was visited by prominent masters of Tibetan Buddhism and adherents of the Bon Po, Devkota writes that more detailed examination of the rock art and other sites may lead to identification of important centres of the faiths here. He also notes that the pigments have faded and some of the relics have deteriorated, while the sites are vulnerable to rock slides and erosion, revealing an urgent need to protect the sites from rockfalls and the harsh climate of the plateau. Says Devkota: “Even if we cannot preserve it on site, we should at least have proper documentation for the future because if we lose it now, we may never fully understand what these works represent.”
Professor Purushottam Lochan Shrestha was on a field visit to Changu Hill overlooking Kathmandu with his students four years ago when a shopkeeper mentioned paintings in the nearby Kalika Gufa. Curious, Shrestha found the cave and came upon hitherto unknown art works from the Malla era. There were paintings of a helmeted soldier, another of Hanuman carrying a mountain and two others of King Pratap Malla kneeling.
To the south of Bhaktapur in Tathali, Shrestha later discovered rock edicts from the Malla period carved into three huge rock faces. The 15 inscriptions dating back 700 years mention that the rocks from here were used to build the Vatsala Temple in Bhaktapur, which came down in the 2015 earthquake. There are also paintings of elephants and horses. Since the findings, Shrestha has been on a one-man search, without any government help, for other cave and rock inscriptions that could throw more light into the early history of Kathmandu Valley.
“Rock paintings and inscriptions provide a rare window to our history: we need more research,” says Shrestha, who has documented the findings in a recent book, Guha, Guhalekh, Guhachitra ewam anya Sampada. “There are rock quarries with ancient paintings that are in danger of being lost forever.”
http://nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/prehistoric-rock-painting-in-mustang,4086
– Nepali Times Dec 2017
Kathmandu Tours
Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.
Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.
Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.
Namaste!
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Kathmandu Valley Guided Sightseeing Day Tours
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Sightseeing Tour (Full Day) | Pashupatinath, Boudhanath & Swayambunath ($125)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Sightseeing Tour (Half Day) | Pashupatinath & Boudhanath ($75)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Car – No Guide (Morning or Evening) | Swayambunath ($35)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Walking Tour (Half Day) | Kathmandu Durbar Square ($50)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Tour (Half Day) | Patan Durbar Square ($65)
+ Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Sightseeing Tour (Full Day) | Bhaktapur & Changu Narayan ($135)
+ Kathmandu Valley Heritage + Craft Tour (Custom Tours)
+ Cycling Trip in Kathmandu Valley (Custom Trips)
+ Everest Express Sightseeing Flight ($225)
+ Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour (Custom Tours)
TOUR NOTE | Additional tour member + $30. Entrance fees not included.
Kathmandu Heritage Multi Day Tours & Hikes
Kathmandu Valley | Heritage Treks & Tours – Nepal
Kathmandu | Full Day World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Boudhanath, Pashupatinath & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guide, vehicles and guides as required. See Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings for more details.
We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning, and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating, when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.
Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gompas) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.
Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world renown artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.
In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self created’ stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisvatti, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings, when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox to with colorful offerings for the goddess.
Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokhari’s, or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.
+Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Kathmandu | Half Day World Heritage Patan Durbar Square Sightseeing Tour
Visit the third of Kathmandu’s ancient capitals, known as ‘The City of Fine Arts’, best if you have an extra day in hand as Patan is also rich in cultural heritage, has many lovely roof-top cafes for lunch and world-class museums. Some of the highlights of Patan are its Durbar Square, the Krishna Temple within the palace complex of Patan (entirely made of stone, with 21 distinctive spires), and Hiranya Varna Mahavir, or the Golden Buddha Temple.
+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Kathmandu Valley | Full Day World Heritage Bhaktapur & Changu Narayan Sightseeing Tour
One more day in Kathmandu, with a sightseeing excursion by private vehicle to Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur which translates as ‘Place of Devotees’ and is also known as Bhadgaon, is an ancient Newar city approximately 15 kilometers east of the Kathmandu Valley. Bhaktapur is one of three ancient capitals of the Kathmandu valley, the capital of the Newar Kingdom and a city of artisans and craftspeople famous for its art and architecture: intricate carvings, sculptures, paintings, thankas, pottery, statues and temples, or pagodas. Bhaktapur has a well-preserved ‘durbar square’, or palace square, and has been named a World Heritage site by UNESCO because of its incredible temples, pagodas, wood carvings, stone carvings and metalwork. Bhaktapur is also famous for its yogurt, called curd in Asia, a taste which hasn’t been duplicated anywhere.
Spend the day exploring Bhaktapur and its rich cultural heritage, where a majority of enthnic Newaris live in traditional ways, and life seems to stand still. There are many great restaurants and cafes to rejuvenate, and it’s possibly the best spot in Kathmandu for purchasing a thanka after watching the technique, as well as shopping for endless other locally produced crafts. Bhaktapur is home to countless local festivals, so if you are lucky and arrive on a festival day, enjoy the timeless and colorful events unfold.
You’ll also visit at Changu Narayan, a few km from Bhaktapur and one of Kathmandu’s oldest Newari temple villages. Legend has it that Changu Narayan was given to the daughter, Champak, of a Kashmiri king of Nepal when she wedded the prince of Bhaktapur. The important Vishnu temple is one of the oldest temples in all of Nepal, and was damaged during the 2015 earthquakes.
+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Everest Sightseeing Mountain Flight
An hour long extravaganza of the world’s 8000 meter peaks. Airport Transfers not Included. (+$250 or Market Price)
Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour
Inquire for prices and options for a once in a lifetime helicopter trip flying right over Everest Base Camp, Kala Pattar, the Khumbu Glacier, plus incredible views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Pumori and more! Cost per helicopter, option to stop at Everest View Hotel for an ‘Everest breakfast’. (+$Inquire for Options)
Cycling Trip Kathmandu Valley
Many options for day trips, or extended trips, in the Kathmandu Valley. We can customize a cycling trip for you in partnership with one of our knowledgeable partners in Kathmandu. (+$Inquire for Options)
Shivapuri Heights Cottages
A wonderful get away 20 km north of Kathmandu, Shivapuri Heights Cottages are stylishly designed and personal cottages built around a ‘common house’, where you can breakfast overlooking the stunningly beautiful Kathmandu valley. Massages available on request. (+$Inquire for Options)
Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! for ideas to put together the perfect journey.
We recommend Kathmandu Valley heritage tours to Bhaktapur or Patan (the Kathmandu Valley’s other historic capital cities), mountain biking, river rafting, yoga retreats, get-aways to Gorkha, Bandipur, Panauti or Namo Buddha to visit traditional hill villages, temples, monasteries and fortresses or a tour of the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas!
Everest sightseeing flight or an epic helicopter tour over Everest Base Camp, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa in Pokhara or Himalayan Front in Sarangkot, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining over Phewa Lake, a spa + wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing, luxury wildlife excursion to Chitwan National Park staying at Tharu Lodge or Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, a chic wildlife safari in Bardia National Park at Tiger Tops, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or 5-star treatment in historic Dwarika’s Heritage Hotel in Kathmandu.
Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these wonderful excursions for you!
Everest Heli Tours
Everest Helicopter Tour Kwondge | Dinner Sunset & Sunrise over Everest – Yeti Mountain Home
An epic private helicopter tour for an extra day in the spectacular Khumbu region. Sunset dinner and sunrise breakfast overlooking some of the best Himalayan views on the planet! Board your private helicopter from Namche for the quick flight to Kwongde YMH Lodge, and enjoy lunch overlooking this vast panorama of peaks. Views include some of the highest peaks on the planet, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Gyajung Khang (the highest peak under 8000m), and the majestic Ama Dambam. From the YMH Lodge, you can look down on Kwonde Lake, generally hidden, and up the awe-inspiring Khumbu valley. The Kwongde YMH (Yeti Mountain Home) is a luxury lodge, one of the world’s highest hotels in one of the Himalaya’s most dramatic locations. Your epic helicopter tour finishes back in Namche Bazaar, but you have the option to charter the helicopter back to Lukla or Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter – Namche to Namche ($1800)
+ Max 4 Passengers
+ Price Per Person Yeti Mountain Home – Breakfast + Dinner ($175)
+ Single Supplement ($75)
Everest Mountain Helicopter Sightseeing Tour | Namche to Namche | Lukla, Everest Base Camp, Cho La Pass (Gokyo Valley), Renjo La Pass (Thame Valley) & Namche
A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region’s spectacular peaks, glaciers, and Himalayan passes! Your private helicopter picks you up in Namche Bazaar, from where you will fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp, as well as the incredible Everest icefall. You will have a chance to stop on Kala Pattar for photos of this spectacular setting. Back in your helicopter, your flight path takes you over Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass, and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake, with another touch down to splash some sacred lake on yourself before crossing the Renjo La pass to the traditional Thame valley, the old trade route to Tibet. Your epic helicopter tour finishes back in Namche Bazaar, but you have the option to charter the helicopter back to Lukla or Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter ($2750) – Namche to Namche
+ Max 4 Passengers
Everest Mountain Epic Sightseeing Tour | Kathmandu to Kathmandu | Lukla, Everest Base Camp, Cho La Pass (Gokyo Valley) & Namche
The full helicopter deal, all the way from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp, and much more! A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region’s spectacular peaks, glaciers, and Himalayan passes! Your private helicopter picks you up at Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu, from where you will fly up to the fabled Tenzin Norgay airport in Lukla. After a cup of tea in Lukla, you will reboard your helicopter and fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp and the sublime Everest icefall. You will have the unique chance to stop at Everest Base camp for photos of this spectacular setting.
Back in the helicopters, your flight path takes you over beautiful Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass, and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake and down the Gokyo Valley. Your epic helicopter continues by flying back over Namche Bazaar, and back through Nepal’s lush middle hills to Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter ($5000) – Kathmandu to Kathmandu
+ Max 4 Passengers
Great Stays
BOUTIQUE & LUXURY HOTELS IN KATHMANDU
KATHMANDU GUEST HOUSE
Kathmandu Guest House
The Kathmandu Guest House (traditional trips) is one of Kathmandu’s first hotels, originally a Rana Palace. Located in the heart of Thamel, the Kathmandu Guest House is a beautiful, lively hotel with a large garden and lovely outdoor cafes, centrally located in Thamel with a wide range of restaurants, cafes, yoga and shopping surrounding it. KGH offers a wide selection of rooms including wonderful deluxe rooms.
“Travelers know that the frenetic pace of a crowded city like Kathmandu needs an escape. The Kathmandu Guest House, a converted Rana dynasty mansion with fragrant gardens and airy corridors, has provided the peaceful refuge of choice since 1967. Since the days of being the first and only hotel in Thamel, the packed tourist district of Kathmandu, it’s become something of an institution. It’s close to everywhere and its gate is the meeting point that nobody can mistake. As a guidebook put it, “Kathmandu Guest House acts as a magnet for mountaineers, pop stars, actors and eccentric characters.” Even the Beatles stayed here in 1968.
Kathmandu Guest House prides itself on being affordable to all budgets, from those looking to treat themselves to total comfort in elegantly modern suites, to volunteers and scholars who take the famous no-frills rooms. Whether you’re returning from the mountains or arriving from the airport, come and relax at the courtyard restaurant, order a cup of fine Italian coffee or a chilled Gorkha Beer, and escape for a moment in the historic surroundings of Kathmandu’s most loved guesthouse.”
Kathmandu Guest House Timeline
KGH History
DWARIKA’S HOTEL
Dwarika’s Hotel
Dwarika’s, Kathmandu’s premier hotel built and decorated with traditional Kathmandu valley architecture, is an oasis of calm located near the airport, where you can relax by the pool, visit the award-winning spa, enjoy the serene, historic surroundings and dine at one of their world-class restaurants.
“Dwarika’s Hotel was registered in 1977, with the idea of reviving the architectural splendour of the valley. All the terracotta work was made in the valley, using local clay and skills. The couple also incorporated elements of Nepal’s diverse cultural heritage, including those from beyond the valley, when designing the rooms. The furniture was crafted by families of traditional carpenters, and the linen, textiles and embroideries were hand woven and used Nepali patterns. In all purposes, Dwarika Das Shrestha took some of the finest elements of Nepali crafts, and presented them in a way that had not been done before. In explaining his vision, he once stated: “My project is to recreate a 15th-17th century environment where tourist and Nepali alike would have a sensation of the original. The hotel as a commercial enterprise is merely a vehicle to finance and carry my dream forward.”
The history of Newari culture in Kathmandu, inspiration for the beautiful heritage architecture of Dwarika’s.
Newari History in Kathmandu
The history of Dwarika’s Hotel
Dwarika’s History
DWARIKA’S RESORT DHULIKHEL
Dwarika’s Resort
A top-notch resort, with a wonderful spa, and wellness, and yoga retreats, on the Kathmandu Valley rim. “With the belief in the need for maintaining harmony between the body, mind, spirit and the planet for a peaceful, healthy and balanced life; the Dwarika’s Resort is built on the philosophy of respecting nature and self. The resort takes its inspiration from ancient Hindu Vedic scriptures (Vedas), Buddhist medicine and traditional Himalayan knowledge.
The Himalayan belt has been home to holistic healing and wellbeing for more than three thousand years. The region’s approach to wellbeing, its serene natural beauty and rare medicinal herbs has attracted great sages through time. The Hindu Vedic scriptures describe Ayurveda, the science of life, as a comprehensive approach to wellbeing that encompasses the study of biology, spirituality, psychology, astronomy, nutrition and beauty. Originating from the same roots the Buddhist approaches to wellbeing also follows similar path and views health as harmony between the mind, body, spirit and one’s environment.
The resort has been designed based on the knowledge of these ancient understanding about holistic wellbeing with all the spaces being consecrated and brought to life. The lifestyle spaces within the resort are designed to attract positive energy and keep negative energy at bay. When you go around the resort you can find details we have placed in various spaces to ensure the energy within the resort is as positive as possible. For example, the resort is surrounded by Cactus (Ketuki), which is believed to cleanse the space around it of all the negative energy and attract positive energy instead. Hence, adding to the calm and nurturing environment offered within the resort. The resort also offers various activities within these spaces to enhance and add value to our guests’ experience.”
YAK & YETI
Yak & Yeti
Yak & Yeti is one of Kathmandu’s historic 5-star hotels, steeped in history, with a lovely pool and garden, located just off Durbar Marg, a tree-lined, upscale road of shops and hotels. ” Yak & Yeti opened in 1977 as a 120 room, 5-star hotel – the first of its kind in Nepal. A new wing of an additional 150 rooms was built in harmony with the architectural features of the old palace, Lal Durbar, bringing the room total to 270. The whole hotel is a sumptuous array of beautiful artifacts, art, and traditionally crafted fixtures. Attention to detail has been meticulously considered throughout, giving the feeling you aren’t just in a hotel as much as an art gallery or museum. Over the years the hotel has been upgraded and extended and now boasts a shopping arcade, a swimming pool, two tennis courts and a state-of-the-art fitness center and luxury spa.”
HOTEL SHANGRI-LA
Hotel Shangri-La
Shangri La is in Lazimpat (a few kilometers outside Thamel), and features a beautifully landscaped garden with a small pool, Asian decor in the rooms, and an outdoor cafe, as well as great restaurants. “Hotel Shangri-La is adjacent to diplomatic consulates … with a traditional touch to the hotel’s interiors fusion with state-of-the-art facilities”
HYATT REGENCY
Hyatt Regency
The Hyatt is a wonderful, 5-star hotel located near Boudhanath, with a large pool, a great buffet breakfast, a gym and a mix of Buddhist and Hindu decor in the lobby and rooms. “Hyatt Regency Kathmandu is a five-star luxury hotel and resort in Kathmandu, set on 37 acres of landscaped grounds and created in the traditional Newari style of Nepalese architecture. This beautiful hotel and resort is located on the road to the Boudhanath Stupa: the most holy of all Tibetan Buddhist shrines outside of Tibet and a UNESCO World Heritage Site located within a five-minute walk from the hotel. The hotel is just 4km (2.4m) from the Tribhuvan International Airport and 6 km (3.7m) from the city center of Kathmandu.”
MARRIOTT
Marriott
The Marriot was completed in 2020, located just near Nag Pokhari, with Kathmandu’s best buffet! “Retreat to Kathmandu Marriott Hotel, a 214-room contemporary hotel in the capital city of Kathmandu. Settle into spacious, well-appointed rooms and suites, many with views of the Himalayan range. Dine in our hotel restaurants, featuring International cuisine at Thamel Kitchen and Asian cuisine at Edamame. Relax at Raksi Music Bar with delicious food and beverages overlooking our waterfall terrace. Get pampered in our full-service hotel spa and salon, take a dip in our outdoor pool or work out in our 24-hour fitness center.”
BOUTIQUE HOTELS
There are many other boutique and character-filled hotels and guesthouses around the Kathmandu Valley. Just a few that we like listed, but this is not AT ALL an extensive list.
KATHMANDU | THREE CAPITALS
Potala Guesthouse – Thamel
Hotel Roadhouse – Thamel
Kantipur Temple House – Thamel
Nepali Ghar – Thamel
Aloft by Marriot – Thamel
Hotel Mulberry – Thamel (Pool)
Maya Manor Boutique Hotel – Hattisar
1905 Suites – Nag Pokhari
Traditional Comfort – Kamal Pokhari
Hotel Shangri-La – Lazimpat (Pool)
Hotel Tibet – Lazimpat
Hotel Manaslu – Lazimpat
Hotel Shambala – Bainsbari – Maharajganj (Pool)
Babar Mahal Vilas – Babar Mahal
Hotel Padma – Boudhanath
Rokpa Guest House – Boudhanath
Hotel Shambaling – Boudhanath
Hotel Tibet International – Boudhanath
Hotel Lotus Gems – Boudhanath (Pool)
Cozy Nepal – Patan
Pahan Chhen – Patan
Traditional Stay Patan – Patan
The Inn Patan – Patan
Traditional Homes | Swota – Patan
Peacock Guest House – Bhaktapur
Hotel Heritage – Bhaktapur
KATHMANDU VALLEY & AROUND
The Fort Resort – Nagarkot
Hotel Mystic Mountain – Nagarkot
Gaia Holiday Home – Dhulikhel
Gokarna Forest Resort – Gokarna
Shivapuri Heights Cottages – Budhanilkanta, Shivapuri
The Old Inn – Bandipur
The Famous Farm – Nuwakot
Gorkha Gaun Resort – Gorkha
Terraces Resort – Lhakuri Bhanjyang Lamatar
Balthali Village Resort – Panauti
Park Village Resort – Budhanilkhanta (Pool)
POKHARA & AROUND
Begnas Lake Resort – Begnas Lake (Pool)
Hotel Karuna – Pokhara
Temple Tree Hotel & Spa – Pokhara (Pool)
Lakeview Resort – Pokhara
Hotel Barahi – Pokhara (Pool)
Summit River Lodge – Kurintar (Kathmandu – Pokhara Highway)
Ghale Gaun Homestay – Ghale Gaun (Near Besi Sahar)
FARMHOUSES & HOMESTAYS
Namo Buddha Resort – Namo Buddha
Herb Nepal – Bhaktapur
Nagarkot Farmhouse – Nagarkot
Srijana Farms – Tansen, Palpa
The Bosan Farmhouse – Bosan Danda
Almost Heaven Farm – Ilam
Barpeepal Bisauni Homestay – Ilam
KATHMANDU POOLS
Hyatt Regency – Boudhanath
Dwarika’s Hotel – Near Airport
Park Village Resort – Budhanilkhanta
Hotel Shanker – Lazimpat
Hotel Shambala – Bainsbari – Maharajganj
Marriott – Nag Pokhari
Yak & Yeti – Durbar Marg
Hotel Mulberry – Thamel
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