Upper Mustang Himalayan Bicycle (MTB) Journey
Nepal Himalaya Cycling Trips

Upper Mustang Himalayan Cycling Journey – Nepal Himalayan Cycling Trip
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House | Bike Rental & Assembly 
Welcome to Nepal! You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it.
Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks …

Those who need to rent bikes will go to Himalayan Single Track just nearby in Thamel (right in back of KGH) to get fitted for rental bikes, and then take the bikes out on a short spin around the back streets of Kathmandu to check them out. You’ll have the rest of the afternoon to do some sightseeing in Kathmandu on foot or by bike. (B)

Day 2 – Kathmandu | Day Bike Ride 
Morning meeting at 9 AM in the back garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to collect passports, insurance information, and photos, and go over some of our bike details and logistics. If you’re ready to get on your bike and explore the Kathmandu valley, we have many excursions available. 

The day is free to explore Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley, shop, wander Thamel’s interesting streets, visit the spa, have a massage, or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Extra Day – Bike Namo Buddha Monastery (43 km)
A beautiful middle hills cycling trip leaving Kathmandu, with plenty of hills once we leave the bustling Central Asian city. We love cycling the Kathmandu Valley and valleyy rim roads, trails and jeep tracks, and have explored this incredibly scenic and diverse region for over 20 years. Our first cycling day features an incredibly scenic ride to the Buddhist monastery of Namo Buddha on the eastern valley rim. 
Distance: 43 km

Extra Day – Bike Changu Narayan & Nagarkot | Mountain Resort 1950m (28.5 km)
From the Kathmandu Guest House, from where we cycle some interesting back roads to Mulpani past Boudhanath, and northwest towards the hill village of Nagarkot, one of the valley’s most beautiful rides. We cycle past terraced rice paddies, on dirt trails through lush wooded hillsides, and bike past many traditional and historic villages en route to Nagarkot. We’ll cycle via Changu Narayan, an ancient Hindu Vishnu temple complex, one of the oldest in Nepal. “A Kashmiri king is said to have given his daughter, Champak, in marriage to the prince of Bhaktapur.”

“The Legend of Changu Narayan | In ancient times a gwala or cow herder, bought a cow from a Brahmin named Sudarshan. The cow was known for producing large quantities of milk and t cow herder used to take the cow to Changu for grazing. At that time Changu was a forest of Champak trees. While grazing, the cow always went to the shade of a particular tree and a boy used to come there and drink the cow’s milk. In the evening, when the cow herder took the cow home and started milking her, he got only a very small amount of milk. This continued for several days. He grew very sad, so he called on the Brahmin saying the cow was not giving enough milk. After observing this, Sudarshan agreed with the cow herder. The next day they observed the cow’s daytime activity while she was grazing in the forest.

Brahmin and cow herder both hid behind the tree. To their surprise, a small black boy came out of the tree and started drinking the cow’s milk. The two men were furious because they thought the boy must be the devil and tree must be its home. So the Brahmin cut down the champak tree. When he was cutting it down, fresh human blood came out of the tree. Both Brahmin and cow herder got worried, believing they had committed a great crime and began to cry. Lord Vishnu emerged from the tree and told the Brahmin and Cowherd it was not their fault. Vishnu told the story of how he had committed a heinous crime by unwittingly killing Sudarshan’s father while hunting in the forest. After that, cursed for the crime, he wandered the earth on his mount, ‘Garuda’, eventually descending on the hill at Changu. There he lived in anonymity, surviving on milk stolen from a cow. When the Brahmin cut down the tree, Vishnu was beheaded, which freed Lord Vishnu from his sins. After hearing these words from Vishnu, the Brahmin and the cow herder resolved to worship the place and established a small temple in the name of Lord Vishnu. Ever since the site has been sacred. Even today, we find Sudarshan’s descendants as priests of the temple and the cow herder’s descendants as ghutiyars (conservators).” – Wikipedia. 

After looking around the complex and having a cup of tea, we take a paved, lovely, nicely graded country road all the way up to Nagarkot. On top of a Kathmandu Valley ridge, Nagarkot was an ancient Kathmandu valley fortress constructed to keep watch of the other small kingdoms around the valley. Later, it became the royal family’s summer retreat. We spend our first night of the Nepal bicycle trip at the Sherpa-run Mountain Resort, where we’ll hopefully have some great Himalayan views for sunset and sunrise. The panorama includes the Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Jugal, Rolwaling, Everest and Numbur ranges, with views down to the Kathmandu valley and into Shivapuri National Park.
Distance 28.5 km

Day 3 – Fly Pokhara 800m
Bikes packed for a short, scenic flight to Pokhara, 198 kilometers west of Kathmandu, flying above the rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. From the flight we’ll look down on terraced villages and green hills, with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance, and land in balmy, sub-tropical Pokhara. We stay at the lovely Lakeview Resort with a cafe overlooking the lake and wonderful AC cottages (do upgrade).

We’ll put together our bikes and enjoy the afternoon cycling the shores of Phewa Lake, biking through traditional villages north of Pokhara. Enjoy the rest of the afternoon in relaxing Pokhara; paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views, drink a huge glass of fresh juice and do some shopping in town, or just sit and relax at the hotel with a book. We’ll head to Moondance Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, a great restaurant just down the road on Lakeside Road.

Day 4 – Fly Jomsom 2720m. Bike Kagbeni + Tetang 2955m
Up early for our spectacular mountain flight to the district headquarters of Mustang, Jomsom. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet we are greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans. From the airport we have a fantastic panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

We’ll put together our bikes, sort our gear and have breakfast at Trekkers Inn in Jomsom (where we stay when we return to Jomsom). As soon as we’re set, we’ll cycle up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni (2900m). The jeep track follows the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. In Kagbeni, we’ll take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while Lhakpa checks us into restricted Upper Mustang.

Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sayka gompa, 800 years old. We’ll also wander past the ancient, crumbing, 100-room King’s Palace. At the police check post at the north end of the village where a sign reads ‘Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point’. We can hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint to enjoy the fantastic views over the patchwork of fields in Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligir.

Next, more cycling on a newly built jeep road high above the Kali Gandaki. We’ll bike on the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, high up on the plateaus above the river-bed, all the time with magnificent views from all sides. The village of Tiri Gaon sits on the west bank of the river. We head north past the red, white and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m). Tangbe is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley.

Soon past Tangbe, we reach Chhusang village (2955m), an interesting Tibetan village with lots to explore. There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity.

Note the extensive number of caves in the massive rock face across the Kali Gandaki. Of these caves, the historian Gucci believes that they were the homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit-monks as retreats. (As Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently). Many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests and plentiful game to hunt.

There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to the seventeenth centuries.

Our first Kamzang Journeys campsite of the trek is set up in the orchards of a guest house just below Tetang, below massive, ochre chortens. We have the rest of the day to wander up the valley past Tetang, head out to the caves across the river and explore, or sit in Chhusang and watch the world life unfold in the late afternoon, timeless …

Day 4 – Fly Jomsom 2720m. Bike Kagbeni & Chhusang 2955m (or Muktinath)
Up early for our spectacular mountain flight to the district headquarters of Mustang, Jomsom. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet we are greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans. From the airport we have a fantastic panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

After sorting out gear and having breakfast at Trekkers Inn in Jomsom (where we stay when we return to Jomsom), we’ll start our cycle up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni (2900m). The jeep track follows the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. Once in Kagbeni, we’ll take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while Lhakpa checks us into restricted Upper Mustang.

Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sayka gompa, 800 years old. We’ll also wander past the ancient, crumbing, 100-room King’s Palace. At the police check post at the north end of the village where a sign reads ‘Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point’. We can hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint to enjoy the fantastic views over the patchwork of fields in Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligiri.

Continuing our cycle into Upper Mustang, we pass through the checkpost and cycle along a  newly built jeep road high above the Kali Gandaki. We’re cycling on the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, high up on the plateaus above the river-bed, all the time with magnificent views from all sides. The village of Tiri Gaon sits on the west bank of the river. We head north past the red, white and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m). Tangbe is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley.

Soon past Tangbe, we reach Chhusang village (2955m), an interesting Tibetan village with lots to explore. There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity.

Note the extensive number of caves in the massive rock face across the Kali Gandaki. Of these caves, the historian Gucci believes that they were the homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit-monks as retreats. (As Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently). Many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests and plentiful game to hunt.

There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to the seventeenth centuries.

Our first Kamzang Journeys campsite of the trek is set up in the orchards of a guest house at the end of Chhusang, and you’ll have the rest of the day to wander up the valley past Tetang, head out to the caves across the river and explore, or sit in Chhusang and watch the world life unford in the late afternoon, timeless … (B, L, D)

Day 5 – Bike Samar 3605m | Cross Dajori La 3610m
Leaving Chhusang, we cross the small Narsing Khola, and wind our way through the village, passing the archery field and apple orchards. We trek up the rocky Kali Gandaki riverbed, where we might find saligrams from the Jurassic period (160 million years old) embedded in sediment of the sea floor. We cross the Kali Gandaki on a bridge built at a naturally formed tunnel through which the Kali Gandaki flows on to the trail leading to Tsaile at 3060 meters, which sits above us on the plateau.  It’s a very steep but short climb up the rocky gully to Tsaile (3060m), a lively village with extensive wheat and barley fields. Look above the bridge for views of some of the ancient caves explored in the Peter Athens National Geographic documentaries. The caves are all empty, assumed to be mediation caves, and believed to be haunted by the spirit or zombie of the ‘Chhuksang woman’. Two of the National Geographic explorers were almost fatally injured while exploring these caves.

The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’ do what the look like they might do, capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household, and date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion. You will also see woman wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains.

Next the ascent up the Dajori La on a breathtaking trail towards Samar. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks. We trek on this slightly precipitous cliff-side trail (partly road, which we leave) past the long suspension bridge to the Gurung village of Ghyakar, the canyon becoming deeper and more dramatic as we ascend. The Dajori La, at 3600 meters, is marked by rock cairns, a 2 ½ – 3 hour trek from Tsaile.

Lovely Samar, which means ‘red earth’ in Tibetan, is visible just below us, a 15 minute traverse to a group of three chortens on the ridge above the village. Samar, a green village with lovely poplar groves and flat-roofed houses, was formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet.

We’ll set up camp on the green, shaded grounds of the New Annapurna Guest House, one of our favorite campsites and the owned by good friends Namygal Gurung. His brother Karma used to be our horseman, and is now one of our guides. Relax, have a wash in the cold stream next to the grassy, campsite and enjoy the afternoon and sunset over the Himalayan peaks, still dominated by Niligiri I, in this charming village. Showers are available inside the lodge and feel free to go into the kitchen for a cup of salt-butter tea. Don’t miss the sunset and sunrise Himalayan views from camp!

Day 6 – Bike Zaite 3840m | via Chungsi Caves | Cross Chungsi La 3810m & Syangboche La 3825m
Passing through the cluster of traditional houses and mani walls of Samar, we exit through the ‘kane’ chorten and descend steeply on a switch-back trail to the Samarkyung Khola, after which we have another drop into the next valley, the Jhuwa Khola, and another climb out. At the plateau we take the right fork and trek past a small doska, or seasonal hearding settlement, and continue to climb for a short time to the Chungsi La (3810m), from where we’re treated to spectacular views down into the deep canyon beyond us, and back over the Annapurnas.

Switchbacking steeply, we drop into this incredible, vast canyon, with wonderful, expansive views the entire time. Staying high above the Kali Gandaki, which snakes its way through the canyons far, far below us, the trail descends steeply, eventually rounding the corner just past our large look-out rock. It doesn’t take long to round the corner and reach the intersection to the sacred Buddhist Chungsi Caves (3425m), about 500 meters below the pass. Those who are feeling tired should continue on and not climb up to the caves.

The Chungsi Caves, about 300 steps up, are one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s meditation caves. Inside are fantastic ‘rangjung’ or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens, ‘Tara’s terraced fields’ and others Buddhist relics. The old caretaker was from Gheling, the new caretaker is a monk from Tibet who has been living in the cave for 2+ years. *** See page 144, Tucci.

Back down the steps, we continue to head north, climbing back up through the canyon on a widened trail, soon to be a road. En route we see many nests of Himalayan Griffins high up in the cliff-faces, noticeable from their white below them (vulture droppings), and will see these majestic birds with their three-meter wingspans circling high above us. We ascend to Syangbochen, passing a small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats. Watch out for dogs.

We’ll have lunch in the small hamlet of Shyangboche (3765m), originally a seasonal kharka and named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan).  We have a short climb to the Shyangboche La (3825m), just 50 meters above the village. We’ll stop for photos of the dramatic Himalayan vista, including Annapurna 1, Niligiri and the peaks north bordering Tibet. We also look down to the east to the picturesque village of Geling. Above Geling is an old, brick-red gompa and ancient meditation caves in the eroded cliffs, and in the village a new school and white-washed Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields.

We trek north, descending gradually on the new road, cutting down to a smaller trail which leads over a small stream. We climb to the small hamlet of Tamagaon (3700m) and continue along a lovely trail amongst rounded granite boulders to the small hamlets of Chhunggar (3750m), where there is a large, colorfully striped chorten at each end of the village. Continuing on to the next small hamlet of Zaite, we reach our green campsite after an eventful day. From the campsite we have great views of the Himalayan peaks to our south: Thorung Peak, Annapurna l and Tilicho amongst them! Enjoy the grassy campsite, have a wash and get ready for an amazing Himalayan sunset …

High Route Option | Cross Bhene La 3840m & Yamda La 3985m to Syangbochen
There is another slightly shorter and easier route, which entails hiking over the Bhena La (3840m) and the Yamda La (3985m) on a ‘Himalayan flat’ trail, so the ups and downs aren’t so steep and you’ll stay relatively at the same altitude between passes. You miss the Chungsi Caves on this trail unfortunately.

Day 7 – Bike Dhakmar 3765m & Tsarang 3575m | Cross Nyi La 4010m, Ghemi La 3520m & Dhakmar La 3950m
Leaving Zaite, we’ll pass the intersecting trail (road) from Geling, a lovely village with an ancient, ochre gompa, a sponsored school and cave complexes.  We climb the trail that intersects the switch-backing road leading to the Nyi La (4010m), a half an hour ascent. From the cairn at the pass we’re treated to Himalayan panoramas including Annapurna 1 and beautiful Niligiri, as well as the clusters of white-washed villages below.More of Upper Mustang opens up in front of us, including the new road snaking its way to Tibet. We descend on the road for a bit, but soon head off on a small trail and continue contouring around hillsides to the Ghemi La, from where there are wonderful views down to the checkered fields and large, beautiful village of Ghemi. We descend steeply down to Ghemi (3750m), built along the steep edges of the cliff as are many fortified villages in Mustang. There are actually the ruins of an old fortress somewhere in Ghemi, which was largely abandoned until the Khampa fighters set up a magar (war camp) here and brought new life and wealth to the village. We’ll wander a bit through this interesting village, passing the mani walls and prayer wheels, perhaps finding the key-keeper to open the Ghemi Gompa for us.

Afterwards, we take a small, rocky trail following a willow lined stream down to a bridge crossing the Tangmar Chu. We’ll cross the bridge and climb a steep, dusty hill. The trail looks across the valley to ochre, blue and steel-grey cliffs, and leads us past tri-colored chortens and perhaps the longest and most spectacular mani wall in Mustang, behind which is the hospital. Looming ahead is a cluster of ancient chortens, some of the most massive in the Tibetan world, backed by dramatic, sculpted cliff-faces and said to be 1500 years old (the same as Lo Gekar); an awesome sight!

We continue hiking through a scenic, green valley, stopping occasionally for passing herds of sheep and goats, soon arriving at the lively, sprawling village of Dhakmar, dominated by a dramatic, red canyon wall with many ancient cave dwellings. Following the small stream through the lower part of the village, green with old willows and more recently planted poplars, we look across the stream to old gompa. The red cliffs, which house Himalayan Griffins and Lammergeyers, are fantastic. “Dhakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures illustrate a well known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rimpoche eviscerated a huge demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red and purple-grey.” — Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door

From Dkhamar, we trek up through the fluted hoodoos and craggy spires just north of the village, perhaps a 45-minute climb to reach the plateau about 200 meters above us, below the Mui La. The views looking down through the canyons to Dhakmar are breathtaking. From the plateau it’s an easy hour walk down the ridge to the valley, where we follow the Tsarang Khola, with scenic Marang across the river. Passing through the patchwork of fields, we soon reach o the fortified village of Tsarang, meaning ‘cock’s crest’, one of Mustang’s ancient capitals perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon. We’ll walk between high walls to the south of the village, green with poplar and willow trees, and stop to gaze at Tsarang Gompa and its ruins, impressively built on a crag of rock.

Tsarang is a large village of 83 houses (population 400) built on top of the Tsarang Khola canyon, one of the later capitals of the Kingdom of Lo in the 14th century. Stone walls separate the houses and form tunnel-like paths, a new irrigation ditch lines the main street, and willow groves turn the village green. Tsarang bustles with its many shops, its own hydro-electric plant and quite a few guest houses and visitors. It is dominated by the massive, crumbling five-story Tsarang Dzong, a Tibetan-styled fortified palace built in 1378, and the large, ochre-hued Tsarang Gompa, built in 1385, of the Sakya sect and with the greatest library in Lo (the palace also has a great library). The dzong and palace were both built by Ame Pal and the other of the ‘Three Sangpos’. The palace has a wonderful, old prayer room with a gold-printed prayer book and a fascinating array of statues, thankas and large Buddha paintings that the resident lama will show you, and the withered 500-year-old hand of the master architect of the palace. Tsarang Gompa is adorned with fantastic 15th century frescos on the assembly hall walls; don’t miss the older prayer room in back, once an ‘ani gompa’, or nunnery. Elaborate sand mandalas are created at the gompa at festival time, and then ceremonially deposited into the river at the festival’s end. Ekai Kawaguchi stayed nine months here in 1899, and Michel Peissel spent time with the Abbot of Tsarang, the king’s brother (the present king’s father) during his time in Mustang.

Camp is set up in the green campsite of Royal Mustang Holiday Inn, run by Maya Bista, a relative of the King, the Palace and Gompa visible in the near distance. Take the chance to have a cup of traditional salt-butter tea in the kitchen with Maya and the staff of the inn! Take a walk through the maze of paths to the dzong and friendly gompa before dinner, and stop in at one of the many shops for a look. Many of the wealthier homes here have family shrines which you might be lucky enough to be invited to see. The local women will be herding their sheep through the narrow, walled paths as dusk as the snow pigeons circle, shimmering, under the setting sun.

NOTE: It’s also possible to trek up the trail which traverses the road and leads to the Tsarang La (3870m), and then trek down on the road to Tsarang.

Day 8 – Bike Lo Gekar 3940m & West Nomad Camp 4280m | Cross Marang La 4305m
Trekking north from Tsarang, past the new, whitewashed chorten, we take the main trail out of town past Marang and Karang villages, headed towards Lo Gekar. It will take us about 1 ½ hours to reach Lo Gekar, ‘Pure Virtue of Joy’, set majestically in the valley below us. Lo Ghekar or Ghar Gompa, built in the 8th century, is one of the oldest gompas in Nepal. It belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet as well as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means ‘house gompa’ after the style of architecture, and harbors many exemplary frescoes as well as wonderfully carved and painted mani stones. Surrounding the gompa are massive, block-like chortens of a unique style and strings of colorful prayer flags fluttering in the winds of Mustang.

The story of Lo Gekar: Samye Gompa, the oldest gompa in Tibet, was repeatedly destroyed by demons when it was being built. The head lama dreamed that Guru Rimpoche could help with the construction and invited him to the site. The great Guru Rimpoche found demons to be the problem, and suggested that they first build Lo Gekar. Guru Rimpoche killed the demons at the spot that Lo Gekar was soon to be constructed. The long mani wall just south of Dhakmar is said to have arisen from the intestines of the demon, and the red cliffs above Dhakmar the blood of the demon. After Lo Gekar was completed, Samye in eastern Tibet was also successfully built.

After a look at the ‘lha-khangs’ or prayer rooms of the gompa, we’ll start to ascend the relatively easy Marang La, a gradual climb through a green grazing valley. We’ll stop for a break at the top of the first hill, gazing out at the Himalayan peaks in the distance. Blue sheep graze in these arid hillsides, their tracks stripping the otherworldly ridges, and griffins and choughs soar in the clear, blue Mustangi skies overhead. After an easy contour, we reach the prayer flags and cairn which mark the Marang La, at 4305m. From the pass it’s a quick 20-minute walk downhill to the beautiful, green nomadic encampment, our ‘last nomads of Mustang’!

We have a bird-eye view over this scenic valley, dotted with nomadic tents of yak-hair, yaks, herds of sheep and goats, piles of yak dung and nomads. Several families live in this valley in their tents, and a few more in the valley over the next ridge. Our campsite is idyllic, set right next to a clear stream on a grassy, flat plateau looking down-valley over Himalayan peaks. We’ll visit the lively doksa later in the afternoon, perhaps being invited for a steaming cup of salt-butter tea and dried cheese. This is one of the last nomadic settlements in all of Nepal, a rare chance to see how real Tibetan nomads exist. We are quite high so it gets COLD in the evening. Sunsets and sunrises are perfect.

Afternoon Nomad Excursion & Textile Shopping
Hike over the hill to the north to visit the other nomadic settlements in the afternoon; all of the nomads were living in the Tibetan borderlands northeast of Lo Manthang, but many families moved to this spot about fifteen years ago to have better access to supplies, schools and medical facilities in Lo Manthang. From the hill between the camps, at the prayer flag, you can look right down to the walled city of Lo Manthang, a great view. Locals from Lo Manthang might come to the doksas to collect the sheep and goat dung that the nomads don’t use. We might get some yogurt from the nomads, delicious and fresh, and we can buy exquisite textiles from the nomads if we like.

NOTE: The nomads might be camped in a slightly different spot in the Autumn.

Day 9 – Bike Lo Monthang 3820m
Leaving the high grazing plateaus of the nomads, we traverse up a ridge right out of camp, with views down to the ancient walled capital of Lo Manthang. Descending into the wide valley below, we trek for about two hours following the valley bed, past the ruins of ancient fortresses and gompas, towards the southern walls surrounding the city. Horses roam freely amongst the the crumbling walls and fields that surround Lo. At Lo Manthang, we cross a small bridge and turn left into the walled entrance of Lo. Finally, the fabled city of Lo Manthang!

We enter the outer walls of the city and head to Pema Bista’s campsite right at the walls to the city, under a small grove of ancient, sacred willows. The horses and crew will arrive behind us, so we will start exploring the maze-like alleyways of this fascinating village. Be prepared for the onslaught of tourism in Lo as vendors immediately find us and set up ‘shop’ next to the campsite. It’s not as pristine as it used to be, but just as mystical in the golden, yellow light as the local men bring their sheep and horses inside the city gates for the night. Perhaps, we we’ll have a cup of the infamous suija (salt butter tea) at Pema’s house in the afternoon, after visiting his shop. And we’ll have plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan peaks bordering Tibet.

We’ll spend the rest of the day visiting the famous monasteries, wandering the labyrinthine alleyways of Lo Manthang, shopping for Tibetan and Mustangi artifacts and doing a ‘kora’ of the large complex. There is an amchi that runs a Tibetan herbal medicine clinic in town, two schools and even a coffee shop along with the increasing number of shops to visit.

To the north of Lo Mantang, in the direction of Tibeta and at the bottom of the Namgyal valley, are the impressive ruins of Khochoe Dzong, meaning ‘white sheep dzong’, Ame Pal’s original palace dzong built in 1440. The other ruins, slightly lower, were a monastery of a similar period both catch incredible morning and evening light, and are very photogenic. Both are accessible on the return of our hike tomorrow, though the trail isn’t good.

History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital and its inhabitants called Lobas. Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings which we’ll have a chance to visit. There are even yeti (known here as mehti) prints rumored to be found.

Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (Abbot) were allowed to ride. All others must walk, to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, still resides at his four-storied palace inside the city walls; that is, when he’s not in Kathmandu. He is an avid horseman, and keeps his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, the king plays a somewhat ceremonial role although he is well loved and respected throughout Mustang. The present king is the 25th descendent of Ame Pal.

There are four major temples within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang, the 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang (the oldest gompa, built in 1387, with the striking 50 foot ‘Jampa’ (Future) Buddha, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago), 15th century Thubchen Gompa (Great Assembly hall, pillars 30 feet high, the second oldest gompa with fantastic murals in the Dukhang), Chhoede Gompa (where the Kempo lives, with a monastic school) and Choprang Gompa. There is also the Raja’s Palace, home to the present King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (who is from an aristocratic Lhasa family) and an interesting maze of a village to explore. There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry.

Day 10 – Lo Manthang | Day Hike Namgyal & Tingger Valley
We have two more wonderful days in this mythical walled capital known throughout the Tibetan Buddhist world, including a new camp tomorrow night in the Chosar valley.

Today we’ll do a day hike through the Namgyal and Tingger valleys, a trek that will take a good part of the day but is worth the effort. Leaving Lo Monthang behind the main gate and passing threw the willow-lined, lower caste villages below, we climb up to Namgyal Gompa (the Monastery of Victory), set spectacularly on top of a desolate ridge and the newest and most active gompa in Lo. The young novices studying here are from all reaches of the Tibetan Buddhist world. The village of Namgyal spreads out past the Gompa, worth a quick wander. Continuing north on the road and passing several ruins of ancient, crumbling monasteries we soon reach the old capital of Thinggar (4025m) where the king still has his small summer palace, now not in top condition. The small village gompa has been newly renovated, and it’s an interesting and colorful village to explore.

There are many ancient ruins surrounding the village, some gompas and others old fortresses. Once on the opposite side of the winding alleyways we continue to hike north for about half an hour to Kimaling (4030m), just across a long suspension bridge. We’ve had some lovely experiences with the local villagers at Kimaling, who don’t see very many trekkers. You’ll find them weaving, washing textiles and herding their sheep and goats. We might stop for salt-butter tea at a new friend’s small homestay (home) near the local lhakang (temple). Kimaling Gompa is below the village, on the way out as we head towards Phuwa and its gompa on the way down towards Lo. There are tremendous views of Namgyal Gompa backed by snow-peaks behind us as we wander up the valley, and white peaks in front of us bordering Tibet.

The return route heads straight down the valley to Phuwa village and eventually back to Lo Manthang. Back at camp, dinner is on the fire, tea is brewing, and cold beers are available from the tea-shops, so relax and enjoy our last evening in this magical capital.

This is also possible to do by horse, inquire. Disclaimer: Horses are a good way to visit both of these valleys but even on horseback it will be a long day. We take no responsibility for anything that may happen on a horse, and horses must be hired out apart from Kamzang Journeys. We will, of course, help with the arrangements.

Day 11 – Bike Chosar 3885m | Rinchin Ling Cave or Drakphuk Konchok Ling Caves (Optional) , Nyphu & Garphu Gompas & Jhong Cave Complex
Leaving Lo Manthang, we descend past the brick-red Chamba Gompa at the corner of Lo Manthang to the lower cast community living along the willows of the riverbed, climbing out along the jeep road which we follow for about an hour. We hike along the wide road, passing the ruins of the original Choede Gompa, passing through crumbling canyons, dry gullies, past ruined fortresses and the remains of ancient monasteries, relics of a more prosperous time past. Behind us as we leave Lo are the snow-peaks bordering Tibet, the ruins of the once-imposing Lo Dzong.

The Chosar valley was the main trading route with Tibet and Lhasa, and is peppered with the ruins of old fortresses guarding this strategic valley. Just north of this valley, over the border in Tibet, Lhakpa and I met a Tibetan man who still dealt in the trade of rare animal skins with Mustangi traders, a risky and of forbidden endeavor. It will be interesting to see if we can find out anything of this trade on the Nepal side of the border.

Crossing a bridge across intersecting stream on the main road, we head right, cross the stream on a wooden bridge, and we take the ‘village’ heading towards our favorite troglodyte village, hiking through lovely, textured cultivated regions. Taking a bit of time to explore this interesting cave village, perhaps visiting a cave-house, we hike for another 20 minutes or so before we see the Jhong Caves valley.

Passing Nyphu Gompa on our left, we hike for about 15 minutes to the incredible cave-dwelling complex of Jhong, which you negotiate by ladders and through small tunnels (bring a headlamp), very interesting and reputed to be 2500 years old. In front of us, a range of spectacular snow-peaks marks the border with Tibet, and around us gurgling streams and green meadows line our trail.

After the Jhong caves, we’ll return to visit the Sakya Ngorpa (sect) Nyphu Gompa (3760m) ahead, with its Lo Khenchen cave and the home of Khenpo Samdup. The gompa has 30 resident monks and lamas and 40 thawas, and is built into the rock face. The ruins across the mostly dry riverbed are an old monastery which none of the villagers seem to know much about. “Nyphu had all the elements one could wish in a mysterious sacred retreat, possessing all the snugness of an underground hive and the grandeur of an eagle’s nest.” — Michel Peissel, Mustang; A Lost Tibetan Kingdom

We can trek through small lanes, passing houses with red posts and often young Mustangi women weaving in the courtyards. Looking up to more eroded cave complexes, we soon round the corner and trek past a large chorten to reach the interesting Garphu Gompa on the east banks of the Mustang Khola. Garphu, built in the 9^th century, is the second cave gompa (the fist being Nyphu), belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is associated with Guru Rimpoche. The furthest monastery in this valley is Nyamdo Gompa which we may have time to visit later in the afternoon, depending on where we’re camped.

High up in this valley, between Jhong and Rinchin Ling, many ruins are perched high up on craggy cliffsides, in impossible locations. Locals say they are only houses, but we imagine that several of them were dzongs, gompas or lookouts.

Sky Cave Options | Rinchin Ling & Drakkphuk Koncho Ling
We have an option to visit the newly discovered Rinchin Ling cave complex, which requires a jeep, hiking up a steep hillside and entering the caves by a series of roped-together ladders carried up by local villagers for a fee. More about this on the trek, better to keep the details of these caves a bit quiet. There is also an option to visit the Drakphuk Konchok Ling cave if the trail is in good condition. This little visited cave requires a seriously exposed hike along steep sided ridges, and a drop down using a rope, and is located north of the Chosar Cave complex. Both of these options probably require a jeep leaving Lo Manthang to get us nearer to the caves.

Day 12 – Bike Sam Dzong 4015m | Cross Sam Dzong La
Another off the map day as we leave Chosar camp and trek to remote Sam Dzong village. Passing though the fields of a village, we contour around several hillsides, climbing to reach a new road and a pass on a high ridge. From this dramatic pass we have incredible Himalayan views, which we’ll stop to enjoy before a breathtaking, slightly precipitous descent into Sam Dzong Khola. We’ll be kept company by Lammergeiers and Himalayan griffins as we descend to the baked, eroded river bottom, peppered by massive, crumbling chortens attesting yet again to an illustrious history now almost forgotten. (see pg 137 of Tucci)

Sam Dzong, meaning ‘border fortress’ or ‘earth watchmen’, is a remote village nestled amongst craggy cliffs, and will also probably soon relocate because of lack of water. Sam Dsong is a starkly beautiful and traditional village, with friendly villagers who see few trekkers. Our team has set up camp at the far end of the village, in the school yard, where the ‘burial cave museum’ is located.

Sam Dzong is the location of one of Mustang’s most important cave burial sites after the discovery of the Mebrak (Membrak) burial caves, dating from 400 BC – 50 AD. Sam Dzong’s burial caves date from 400 AD, so 800 years after the Medbrak sites. The Medbrak people buried their dead in boxes, layering them, the bodies in fetal positions. In contrast, 65% of Sam Dzong bones have flesh marks that clearly indicate defleshing of bones. Ceramics from 1000 BC (Chokhopani style – some of the original inhabitants of the Kali Gandaki valley) were also discovered in the Sam Dzong sites.

Just above our campsite, you can scramble up a very steep slope to some ancient caves with painted Buddhist murals, and in the evening it’s worth taking a walk though town when the locals return with their flocks of sheep and goats!

Day 13 – Bike Nomads Yersa Mesa Camp 4785m
Leaving Sam Dzong,  we cross the small stream and climb almost immediately out of camp, ascending through a magical world of contorted, eroded canyons to reach a ridge top. Staying high, we trek past several doksas, and then have a long, undulating hike to our high Yersa (summer) nomad camp high on a remote plateau near the border of Tibet. Before arriving at the plateau, we have to drop to a small river, and climb back up a bit to camp.

Most of the last nomadic families in Mustang lived here during the summer months until the harsh conditions forced them down to the camp nearer to Lo Manthang. Recently we found that two families, a brother and sister, still live in their traditional Tibetan tents, herding their yaks and tending their Pashmina goats and sheep, on this remote plateau. Watch out for their ferocious dogs!!

From the plateau, some of the world’s largest peaks come into view: Dhaulagiri, Niligiri, Thorung & Tilicho Peaks, Annapurna 1 and other 7000 and 8000 meter peaks rise impressively in back of us when we finally reach the top of the windy nomadic plateau. Our campsite is the one pictured in Peter Matheissen’s book ‘East of Lo Manthang’, with nomads and their yak-haired tents backed by a towering Dhaulagiri, a fantastic spot. A prayer wall protects us from the north, and the border of Tibet is just an hour’s walk away, locals have told us.

Day 14 – Bike Chodzong Gompa Camp 3850m & Canyon Camp 3710m
Crossing the expansive canyon, we drop down for an hour on a switch-backing trail, sometimes with small undulations, to the river bottom far below. We head south towards Chodzong Gompa, following a small stream bed, turning right at the old mill, and passing by more caves, ancient mani walls and finally the ruins of an old village. Soon afterwards we are treated to the dramatic site of the 14th – 15th century Chodzong Gompa ‘castle of the faith’ in the cliff-side ahead of us. Another translation, Chos Sung, translates as ‘books’ ‘listen to’ after the tradition of taking the books out of the gompa, walking them in a ‘kora’, and reading them to the nomads or villagers who would come for the readings. This is from local nomads.

Welcome to Matheissen’s hidden Mustang. Have a quick scramble up to Cho Dzong Gompa, which Peter Matheissen wrote about in his book, ‘East of Lo Monthang’ and which houses some of the most important Buddhist artwork in Mustang. The main gompa has a lock on the door but you can hike up to a smaller gompa in back of the main one, possibly unlocked. Unfortunately the main cave entrance has now crumbled away and is inaccessible. Notice the tangle of antlers on top of the gompa roof, and the tsatsas in several of the caves. There is also an odd ‘baby yak’, stuffed, in one of the caves, but only some of our intrepid staff will be able to reach this dangerously situated cave. In the back of the cliff, now crumbling and inaccessible, is some of the most important artwork in the Tibetan Buddhist world. Unfortunately we won’t be able to see it, but the Italian art restorer Luigi Fini is making a book of the murals from this cave, perhaps the only ones that will ever be taken.

Continuing on, we climb the small ridge past the gompa, several large chortens, and a long, ancient mani wall painted in red, all signifying the importance that this gompa enjoyed in years past. We have entered a lost world of contorted canyons, muted earth-tones and narrowing passages, the wonderful world of ‘lost’ Mustang filled with mustard and blood-orange stained rocks and salt-drips. We have an hour or more of river crossings, with a few ascents and descents, salt drips and rust-colored springs decorating this incredible canyon.

Once at the wide river junction, we turn left and see the welcome sight of our Canyon Camp ahead of us. The sun goes down early, so have a wash in the small, clear stream and relax under the only willow tree in the canyon.

Day 15 – Bike Ghara 3930m | Cross Ghara La 4380m
We have a challenging day ahead of us, beginning by trekking upstream from camp, jumping the small, pebbly Chaka Khola and reaching our steep, 500-meter climb after 20 minutes. The climb is relentless, but the heat not bad in the morning, so we’ll ascend and enjoy the increasingly dramatic views down into the canyon and then the plateau. Once at the cairn at the top of the ridge, we’ll have a rest at the incredible stone doksa, admire the views overlooking the border of Tibet ahead, and continue to trek along a relatively flat plateau.

Contouring around several hillsides, staying high and passing a couple of cairns, we soon drop down steeply on a hardened trail to the green doksa of Kepuchhimi at the valley bottom, a stream running through it. Crossing the stone doksas, littered with dung, we have a less steep climb back up to the plateau where we regain our expansive views of the sculpted rocks and canyons surrounding us. More scenic contouring and two small cairns later we reach the Ghara La.  After lunch, we have a steep descent on a dusty trail, past several cave dwellings, to Ghara.

En route we’ll look down onto the red and white striped Luri Gompa and the patchwork of terraced fields of barley surrounding Ghara and Yara villages.

The green oasis of Ghara, with its ruined gompa, chortens and old, winding walls, is just below. The staff have set up our camp just above the village in a walled enclosure with the village tap just below. We’ll have many villagers as visitors, both adults and kids, all of whom will bring some of their ubiquitous saligrams and Mustangi artifacts to display. We’ll be treated to fantastic mountain panoramas down-valley towards the Kali Gandaki at sunset and sunrise. Enjoy!

Day 16 – Bike Yara 3610m | Visit Tashi Kabum & Luri Gompa 3985m
Heading northeast out of Ghara, it’s an easy 45-minute hike through arid landscapes, past the ruins of an old village and gompa, and past several scenic viewpoints with chortens and wonderful views back to Ghara and the Himalayas, as we trek on a high trail to Luri Gompa.

The fabled Druk-pa Luri Gompa and its complex of Tibetan Buddhist caves, some of which are accessible others now ‘closed’ forever, are one of the highlights of Upper Mustang. One of the older Kings of Lo married a Bhutanese princess, thus the Druk-pa influence. The main Luri Gompa is situated down near the riverbed; the teacher, kids in tow, will lead on a crumbling trail us up to the upper prayer-room and the fifteenth century ‘Kabum Stupa’, made of highly polished stucco and painted with intricately detailed Newari-styled Buddhist frescos of the Kagyupa saints Tilopa, Naropa and Marpa. Historians estimate them to be from the 13th or 14th century, and linked to the Tashi Kumbum caves, one of a group of connected cave dwellings throughout this particular region. Unfortunately, or fortunately, most have been rendered inaccessible due to the intense erosion in Mustang, so will remain hidden throughout history.

Trekking a short way down to the river, we hike past fantastic, sculpted canyons with the remains of a network of ancient caves, now eroded enough to be inaccessible. We soon reach little visited Tashi Kumbum complex, accessible via a narrow ledge of a trail. Tashi Kumbum is a newly discovered group of six cave dwellings dating from the 15th century, with fantastic Buddhist murals and a large exquisitely painted chorten. Gary McCue, who went there over fifteen years ago, wrote that the approach is very difficult and often dangerous. Our lodge owner was actually the one who discovered the ancient Tashi Kumbum, and then went there with Gary McCue.

We have a walk of less than an hour along the rocky, saligram dotted Puyung Khola riverbed from the Tashi Kumbum cave complex to our camp at Yara. We camp for the night in the new campsite above of Saribung Guest House, in the middle section of Yara, a bustling village full of Mustangi life. Have a walk above the village in the afternoon, lovely with the sun shining through the willow leaves which brighten the village. We sponsor a young girl from Yara, Tsering Kondo, for her hearing impairment so we’ll hope to get a visit from her and her family. There is a gompa and school in the lower reaches of the village for those wanting a short walk. We might be treated to a cultural dance in the evening, so be ready for a lively Mustangi party!

Day 17 – Bike Dhe 3930m
Today we trek along a little-used route on the far eastern fringes of Mustang, leaving Yara and trekking along a somewhat rough trail towards remote Dhe. Passing through the village and descending to the Puyung Khola, we climb to reach the plateau, which we cross, and ascent a bit to a ridge from we’re treated to a feast of eroded canyons and hoodoos. Take some time to admire the scenery and take a few photos. We cross the plateau on a little-used trail, following the trail up and down several gullies, and through more fantastic landscapes, eventually descending to the rocky river bottom below. We wander up the small Dechyang Khola, collecting saligrams as we go and jumping or wading across (sandals would be a good idea) for an hour. To our right, near the trail (becoming a road), is a settlement called Phangyakawa (where the Dhe-pa want to resettle), is a steep, switch backing trail which we ascend.

Ascending to Dhe from the riverbed at 3400 meters, we cross a small stream, we ascend quite steeply, soon trekking through an old mudslide which resembles a muddy glacier. We continue on this undulatint trail through eroded gullies, and climb to a high trail, staying high on the hillside and passing several old chortens along the trail. To our left an ancient clusters of cave dwellings appear dramatically in the cliff faces far above us, and behind a distant trail leads to Damodar Kunda.

The remote village of Dhe is one of the most isolated in the Himalaya. The inhabitants are (or were) planning to leave their village to relocate to the settlement we passed earlier today as there are serious water issues in Dhe. Still, it’s a lively village with an old gompa to explore, and the villagers are friendly and welcoming as trekkers here are scarce. Enjoy the afternoon and get out to explore this beautiful village. A Nepali film-maker recently made a documentary about this village and its plight which you can find in Kathmandu.

Day 18 –  Bike Tangge 3360m | Cross Dhe La 4245m 
Leaving Dhe heading southwest through this contorted landscape, past two sets of tricolored chortens, we climb out of the village and continue on an undulating trail through a fantastic moonscape, through an ancient landslide, to the Dhe La not far above us. The cairn at the top is decorated with saligrams (ammonites), a tribute to Vishnu and the local gods.

The beautiful descent of 900 meters is colored by ochre, weather worn rocks which have been sculpted by centuries of wind and water erosion, with many contours through this unique landscape, and views of the Himalaya in front as we descent. Soon we see the Tangge ahead of us, an incredibly stunning village, with monumental ochre and white chortens, long mani walls and a traditional village, surrounded be terraced barley fields.

Tangge is a village of twenty houses, many sheep, goats and large mastiffs and the largest chorten in Mustang, over 50 feet high. There was a massive mudslide some years ago which wiped out many of the houses and barley fields on both banks; an elder of the village told us there were over a hundred houses in Tangge before this disaster. The culture now that we’ve reaached Upper Mustang becomes even more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’ do what the look like they might do, capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household, and date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion. You will also see woman wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. At the far end of the village is the high route to Yara. Look to the south for views of the snow-peak called Ka Karru by locals.

The tents have been set up at Tip Top campsite, just above the mani walls, a site sheltered from the unrelenting Mustang winds. Enjoy the rest of the day exploring the mazes of this wonderful village!

Day 19 – Bike Paha 4075m | Cross Paha Tangge La 4185m
It’s a shorter day today, so we can take some spectacular morning photos over the ruins of the chortens of Tangge. Leaving camp at Tangge, we trek to the north of the village to the chortens, cross a bridge across the Tangge Khola and ascend to the Paha Tangge La, topped with fluttering Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags. From here we take an undulating trail to a seasonal doksa. We reach our chilly camp at Paha doksa quite early in the afternoon. There is no water again until Tetang, so we are forced to camp in Paha (3½ hrs)

Day 20 – Bike Tetang 2995m
A spectacular day ahead of us, and a longer, relatively challenging one as we trek on one of Mustang’s most far-flung trails. Leaving Paha, we trek on ridge top trails, with views throughout the day. We crest several small cairn-topped ridges, stop for many photos breaks, eat lunch in one of Mustang’s spectacular outdoor cafes. We spend the day trekking on top of a roller coaster of a ridge line trail which follows the Siyarko Tangk Danda, the cairns being recorded as 4164m, 4080m and 4015m. Closer to Tetang, we trek on an impossible trail hewn into the sedimentary hillside of baked sand, passing through a world of hoodoos, often on exposed but safe trails and always far above the valleys below us. Again, there is no water along this route, so be prepared.

The reward for this epic day is arriving in Tetang, an endlessly fascinating, fortified village with massive houses pock-marked with old scaffolding holes. The ruins of an ancient, crumbling dzong stand majestically on a crest at the northern end of the village, with several families living in this ancient monument. Years ago we witnessed a village women’s council arguing over the use and shortage of water, a heated discussion. It is an extremely photographic village, but loses the sun before 5 pm. Our campsite is just downriver from Tetang towards Chhusang (15 minutes, sandals for crossing the river usually).

Above Tetang are many multihued chortens which mark the entrance to Tetang from the Annapurna side, a long mani wall, green, terraced fields of buckwheat and barley, and the ancient Tetang Dzong. After stopping for photos down on Tetang, we follow the steep trail into the maze of Tetang village and have a visit with the lively inhabitants! (7-8 hrs)

Day 21 – Bike Chhungar 3755m | Cross Gyu La 4070m
Climbing out of Tetang heading towards the Annapurna region, we hike past the long mani wall, past the many ancient chortens and up along the boulder-strewn path, with amazing views down on Tetang as we hike. Once past the large willow tree, the stream and the new irrigation ditch, we continue the climb towards the Gyu La and Lower Mustang.

Ascending into a green grazing valley peppered with local doksas, we climb on a sandy trail with increasingly awesome views, looking out into the Upper Dolpo region. There is one cliff section on good trail, after which we reach a slightly exposed section of trail on good scree. Just afterwards a small climb followed by a verdant green spring area and soon afterwards the flat Gyu La pass! Our last Himalayan pass of the trek, and the border between the Annapurnas (Lower Mustang) and Upper Mustang …

Having taken a moment to celebrate, and perhaps hang a Tibetan Buddhist prayer flag, we drop down a long trail to Chunggar (about 1 or 1 ½ hours), which is stunningly beautiful in the bright early afternoon light. Prayer flags flutter in the wind from the flat Mustangi rooftops, sending prayers out into the world. Our camp is just above the village, so after getting yourself settled in, drop down to the village and have a wander through this rarely visited Tibetan village. The Himalayan views are sublime at sunset – and at sunrise – so don’t miss getting your camera out!  (6 hrs)

Day 22 – Bike Jomsom 2720m
We have an easy drive south from Chhungar to Jomsom along a new road, an hour or so.  Once in Jomsom, you’ll be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans, and beautiful textiles are woven by hand looms in the traditional style, readily available for sale. Yak tails to adorn your horses or dust your house are also sold. We arrive in Jomsom, built along a long, cobbled trail, well in time for lunch. You have the afternoon free to wander, wash and shop. We’ll celebrate our trek through ‘Forbidden’ Mustang at the Trekker’s Lodge in the evening, handing out tips, extra gear and beers to our fantastic Kamzang Journeys staff.

Muktinath Option
For those wanting to visit the sacred pilgrimage site at Muktinath, it is do-able the same day by hired (or shared) jeep. Drive 30 minutes from Chhungar to the Muktinath complex, and then return via Ranipawa and Jharkot. Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water.

Day 24 – Fly Pokhara & Kathmandu
We’ll be up early again for our mountain flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, flying between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South before landing in balmy Pokhara. We then board another flight out of Pokhara for our short, scenic flight to Kathmandu, 198 east of Pokhara, flying high above the north-south rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. We pass over terraced villages and green hills with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance.

In Kathmandu, rooms are booked, showers are hot and laundry can be dropped off. We’ll meet for a farewell dinner tonight although we advise keeping an extra few days in Kathmandu post-trek.

NOTE | In the case of flight cancellation out of Jomsom everyone will be responsible for their rooms and meals at Trekkers Inn.

Day 25  – Trip Ends
Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) for your flight home. Namaste!

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Upper Mustang Himalayan Cycling Journey | Alternative Route

Day 3 – Fly Pokhara 800m
Bikes packed for a short, scenic flight to Pokhara, 198 kilometers west of Kathmandu, flying above the rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. From the flight we’ll look down on terraced villages and green hills, with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance, and land in balmy, sub-tropical Pokhara. We stay at the lovely Lakeview Resort with a cafe overlooking the lake and wonderful AC cottages (do upgrade).

We’ll put together our bikes and enjoy the afternoon cycling the shores of Phewa Lake, biking through traditional villages north of Pokhara. Enjoy the rest of the afternoon in relaxing Pokhara; paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views, drink a huge glass of fresh juice and do some shopping in town, or just sit and relax at the hotel with a book. We’ll head to Moondance Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, a great restaurant just down the road on Lakeside Road.

Day 4 – Fly Jomsom 2720m. Bike Kagbeni + Tetang 2955m
Up early for our spectacular mountain flight to the district headquarters of Mustang, Jomsom. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet we are greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans. From the airport we have a fantastic panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

We’ll put together our bikes, sort our gear and have breakfast at Trekkers Inn in Jomsom (where we stay when we return to Jomsom). As soon as we’re set, we’ll cycle up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni (2900m). The jeep track follows the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. In Kagbeni, we’ll take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while Lhakpa checks us into restricted Upper Mustang.

Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sayka gompa, 800 years old. We’ll also wander past the ancient, crumbing, 100-room King’s Palace. At the police check post at the north end of the village where a sign reads ‘Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point’. We can hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint to enjoy the fantastic views over the patchwork of fields in Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligir.

Next, more cycling on a newly built jeep road high above the Kali Gandaki. We’ll bike on the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, high up on the plateaus above the river-bed, all the time with magnificent views from all sides. The village of Tiri Gaon sits on the west bank of the river. We head north past the red, white and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m). Tangbe is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley.

Soon past Tangbe, we reach Chhusang village (2955m), an interesting Tibetan village with lots to explore. There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity.

Note the extensive number of caves in the massive rock face across the Kali Gandaki. Of these caves, the historian Gucci believes that they were the homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit-monks as retreats. (As Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently). Many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests and plentiful game to hunt.

There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to the seventeenth centuries.

Our first Kamzang Journeys campsite of the trek is set up in the orchards of a guest house just below Tetang, below massive, ochre chortens. We have the rest of the day to wander up the valley past Tetang, head out to the caves across the river and explore, or sit in Chhusang and watch the world life unfold in the late afternoon, timeless …

Day 4 – Fly Jomsom 2720m. Bike Kagbeni + Chhusang 2955m (or Muktinath)
Up early for our spectacular mountain flight to the district headquarters of Mustang, Jomsom. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet we are greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans. From the airport we have a fantastic panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

After sorting out gear and having breakfast at Trekkers Inn in Jomsom (where we stay when we return to Jomsom), we’ll start our cycle up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni (2900m). The jeep track follows the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. Once in Kagbeni, we’ll take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while Lhakpa checks us into restricted Upper Mustang.

Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sayka gompa, 800 years old. We’ll also wander past the ancient, crumbing, 100-room King’s Palace. At the police check post at the north end of the village where a sign reads ‘Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point’. We can hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint to enjoy the fantastic views over the patchwork of fields in Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligiri.

Continuing our cycle into Upper Mustang, we pass through the checkpost and cycle along a  newly built jeep road high above the Kali Gandaki. We’re cycling on the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, high up on the plateaus above the river-bed, all the time with magnificent views from all sides. The village of Tiri Gaon sits on the west bank of the river. We head north past the red, white and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m). Tangbe is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley.

Soon past Tangbe, we reach Chhusang village (2955m), an interesting Tibetan village with lots to explore. There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity.

Note the extensive number of caves in the massive rock face across the Kali Gandaki. Of these caves, the historian Gucci believes that they were the homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit-monks as retreats. (As Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently). Many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests and plentiful game to hunt.

There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to the seventeenth centuries.

Our first Kamzang Journeys campsite of the trek is set up in the orchards of a guest house at the end of Chhusang, and you’ll have the rest of the day to wander up the valley past Tetang, head out to the caves across the river and explore, or sit in Chhusang and watch the world life unford in the late afternoon, timeless … (B, L, D)

Day 5 – Trek Chhungar 3755m
Leaving historic Kagbeni and heading east, we trek along the Annapurna trail to beautiful and traditional Jharkot (3350m), which has an old monastery at the top of this ridge top village. From here we take a small trail leading north from the main trail, drop to the Jhong Khola and then climb back up to Jhong (Dzong), with its fortress-like monastery. It’s a short trek to our idyllic campsite just behind Chhungar village, which is relatively missed on the Annapurna circuit. The views of the Annapurna & Dhaulagiri massifs from this campsite are breathtaking!

ALTERNATIVE MUKTINATH ROUTE: For those wanting to visit the sacred pilgrimage site at Muktinath, it is do-able the same day, probably part by jeep. You would continue on another 30 minutes from Jharkot to Ranipawa, and then another 15 minutes to the Muktinath complex. Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. (4 hrs)

Day 6 – Trek Tetang 2995m (2955m) | Cross Gyu La 4080m
After many years of experimentation we’ve come up with what we consider an incredible rroute into Upper Dolpo, starting with a climb to the small Gyu La (4080m).

Leaving camp, we drop to Chungar and hike through the main route through the village, stunningly beautiful in the bright morning light. Prayer flags flutter in the wind from the flat Mustangi rooftops, sending prayers out into the world. Once through the village we drop to a bridge over the intersecting river and start climbing gradually up towards the pass. In approximately two hours, after several long contours with increasingly spectacular Himalayan views, we crest the flat pass and take a rest at the cairn which marks the border between the Annapurnas & Upper Mustang.

Descending into a green grazing valley peppered with local doksas, we pass a verdant spring, soon afterwards reaching a slightly exposed section of trail on good scree. The landscape becomes more Mustang-like as craggy canyons open up ahead of us, and we continue to descend steeply on a sandy trail. Once past the large willow tree and stream where we will stop for lunch and cool our feet we have our first views of Tetang, which sits 1000 meters below our pass.

Finally we reach the many multihued chortens which mark the entrance to Tetang and are treated to expansive views down over the terraced fields and the ancient Tetang Dzong. After stopping for photos we follow ancient mani walls (over the new road) to the maze of Tetang village. Tetang is an endlessly fascinating, fortified village with massive houses pock-marked with old scaffolding holes. The ruins of an ancient, crumbling dzong stand majestically on a crest at the northern end of the village, with several families living in this ancient monument. Years ago we witnessed a village women’s council arguing over the use and shortage of water, a heated discussion. It is an extremely photographic village, but loses the sun before 5 pm. Our campsite is either just downriver from Tetang towards Chhusang (15 minutes, sandals for crossing the river usually) or another 10 minute in Chhusang village.

Note the extensive number of caves in the massive rock face across the Kali Gandaki. Of these caves, the historian Gucci believes that they were the homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit-monks as retreats. (As Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently). Many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests and plentiful game to hunt. (6 hrs)

Day 7 – Trek Paha 4075m
A spectacular day ahead of us, and a longer and relatively challenging one. Leaving camp at Tetang (or hiking 15 minutes up valley from Chhusang) we ascend on an impossible trail hewn into the sedimentary hillside of baked sand, passing through a world of hoodoos, often on exposed but safe trails and always far above the valleys below us. We spend the day trekking on top of a roller coaster of a ridge line trail which follows the Siyarko Tangk Danda, the cairns being recorded as 4015m, 4080m and 4165m. There is no water along this route, so be prepared. We crest several small cairn-topped ridges, stop for many photos breaks, eat lunch in one of Mustang’s spectacular outdoor cafes and finally reach our shaded and chilly camp at Paha doksa mid-afternoon. (7 – 8 hrs)

Day 8 – Trek Tangge 3360m | Cross Paha Tangge La 4185m
It’s a shorter and much easier day to Tangee, starting with cresting a small ridge pass (which we call the Paha Tangge La at 4185m) topped with more Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags, and continuing with a steep descent most of the way to the Tangge Khola far below. Tangge is an incredibly stunning village, with monumental ochre and white chortens, long mani walls and a traditional village, surrounded be terraced barley fields. To reach the village we have to contour north to a bridge spanning the river and then hike another 15 minutes to camp at the upper reaches of the village. The tents have been set up at Tip Top campsite, just above the mani walls, a site sheltered from the unrelenting Mustang winds.

Tangge is a village of twenty houses, many sheep, goats and large mastiffs and the largest chorten in Mustang, over 50 feet high. There was a massive mudslide some years ago which wiped out many of the houses and barley fields on both banks; an elder of the village told us there were over a hundred houses in Tangge before this disaster. The culture now that we’ve reaached Upper Mustang becomes even more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’ do what the look like they might do, capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household, and date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion. You will also see woman wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. At the far end of the village is the high route to Yara. Look to the south for views of the snow-peak called Ka Karru by locals. (4 hrs)

Day 9 – Trek Dhe 3930m | Cross Dhe La 4245m
Leaving Tangge heading northeast, we climb briefly out of the village and continue on an undulating trail through a fantastic moonscape, colored by ochre, weather worn rocks which have been sculpted by centuries of wind and water erosion. We stay high, climbing gradually until we reach a small pass which we called the Dhe La (4245m), decorated by a cairn of saligrams, a tribute to Vishnu and the local gods. A short descent through another bit of contorted landscape, past tricolored chortens, leads to the remote village of Dhe, one of the most isolated in the Himalaya. The inhabitants are planning to leave their village in a few years to relocate just northwest of here as there are serious water issues in Dhe. Still, it’s a lively village with an old gompa to explore, and the villagers are friendly and welcoming as trekkers here are scarce. Enjoy the afternoon and get out to explore this beautiful village.

A Nepali film-maker recently made a documentary about this village and its plight which you can find in Kathmandu. (5 hrs)

Day 10 – Trek Yara 3610m
Again we are trekking along a little-used route on the far eastern fringes of Mustang, leaving remote Dhe and heading west along a somewhat rough trail. Climbing out of the village, we pass over more eroded gullies and stay on a high trail for a while, soon passing through an old mudslide which resembles a muddy glacier. To our right a distant trail heads east to Damodar Kunda and ancient clusters of cave dwellings appear dramatically in the cliff faces far above us. The trail crosses a small river and has a few ups and downs before it descends rather steeply to the riverbed below at just over 3400 meters. We wander down the small Dechyang Khola, collecting saligrams as we go and jumping or wading across (sandals would be a good idea) for an hour. To our right, near the end of the river at a settlement called Phangyakawa (where the Dhe-pa want to resettle), is a steep, switch backing trail which we ascend.

Upon reaching the plateau, we’re treated to a feast of eroded canyons and hoodoos, so take some time to admire the scenery and take a few photos. We cross the plateau on a little-used trail, following it through more fantastic landscapes, and eventually spot the lovely, green village of Yara below, across the Puyung Khola. We descend to the rocky river bottom, cross the river and head for the village.

We camp for the night in the new campsite above of Saribung Guest House, in the middle section of Yara, a bustling village full of Mustangi life. Have a walk above the village in the afternoon, lovely with the sun shining through the willow leaves which brighten the village. We sponsor a young girl from Yara, Tsering Kondo, for her hearing impairment so we’ll hope to get a visit from her and her family. There is a gompa and school in the lower reaches of the village for those wanting a short walk. We might be treated to a cultural dance in the evening, so be ready for a lively Mustangi party! (7 hrs)

Day 11 – Trek Ghara 3930m | Visit Luri Gompa 3985m
After breakfast, heading northeast out of Yara, we pass fantastic, sculpted canyons with the remains of a network of ancient caves, now eroded enough to be inaccessible. We have a walk of less than an hour along the rocky, saligram dotted riverbed to the Tashi Kumbum cave complex, accessible via a narrow ledge of a trail. Tashi Kumbum is a newly discovered group of six cave dwellings dating from the 15th century, with fantastic Buddhist murals and a large exquisitely painted chorten. Gary McCue, who went there over fifteen years ago, wrote that the approach is very difficult and often dangerous. Our lodge owner was actually the one who discovered the ancient Tashi Kumbum, and then went there with Gary McCue.

Another hour along the Puyung Khola brings us to the fabled Druk-pa Luri Gompa and its complex of Tibetan Buddhist caves, some of which are accessible others now ‘closed’ forever. One of the older Kings of Lo married a Bhutanese princess, thus the Druk-pa influence. The main Luri Gompa is situated down near the riverbed; the teacher, kids in tow, will lead on a crumbling trail us up to the upper prayer-room and the fifteenth century ‘Kabum Stupa’, made of highly polished stucco and painted with intricately detailed Newari-styled Buddhist frescos of the Kagyupa saints Tilopa, Naropa and Marpa. Historians estimate them to be from the 13th or 14th century, and linked to the Tashi Kumbum caves, one of a group of connected cave dwellings throughout this particular region. Unfortunately, or fortunately, most have been rendered inaccessible due to the intense erosion in Mustang, so will remain hidden throughout history.

It’s an easy half-hour hike from Luri Gompa along a high trail to the green oasis of Ghara, with its ruined gompa, chortens and old, winding walls. The staff have set up our camp just above the village in a walled enclosure with the village tap just below. We’ll have many villagers as visitors, both adults and kids, all of whom will bring some of their ubiquitous saligrams and Mustangi artifacts to display. We’ll be treated to fantastic mountain panoramas down-valley towards the Kali Gandaki at sunset and sunrise. Enjoy! (3 hrs)

Day 12 – Trek Chodzong Gompa Camp 3850m | Cross Ghara La 4380m
We have a hard, 7 or 8 hour day in front of us so have plenty of fresh coffee and a good breakfast before we head off. It’s a steep climb behind the village along a dusty trail, past several cave dwellings, for well over an hour to reach to the top of the Ghara La at 4380 meters. En route we’ll look down onto the red and white striped Luri Gompa and the patchwork of terraced fields of barley surrounding Ghara & Yara villages.

Contouring around several hillsides, staying high, we soon drop down to the green doksa of Kepuchhimi at the valley bottom, a stream running through it. Crossing the stone doksas, littered with dung, we have a steep climb on a trail of hardened mud back up to the plateau where we regain our expansive views of the sculpted rocks and canyons surrounding us. More scenic contouring and two small cairns later we reach the steep descent down to camp. We’ll have lunch overlooking the border of Tibet ahead of us and then start on the switchbacking down the 500-meter descent to the pebbly riverbed below. Another half hour of jumping the small Chaka Khola as we trek downstream brings us to our lovely Canyon Camp, where the sun goes down early but is a lovely spot for a wash in the network of streams, downstream from camp …

Now we enter a lost world of contorted canyons, muted earth-tones and narrowing passages, the wonderful world of ‘lost’ Mustang filled with mustard and blood-orange stained rocks and salt-drips. A quarter of an hour of river jumping (sandals) from camp in the direction of Lo Monthang we reach the river intersection. We take the right fork which heads to the 14th-15th century Chodzong Gompa which Peter Mattheissen wrote about in his book, ‘East of Lo Monthang’ and which houses some of the most important Buddhist artwork in Mustang. Unfortunately the main cave entrance has now crumbled away and is inaccessible.

After about half an hour of jumping the snaking river along the flood plain, we suddenly ascend dramatically, climbing on a steep trail of loose scree to a ridge which affords us incredible views up and down the valley. Soon afterwards we crest a small pass with an dramatic chorten and are treated to the dramatic site of the 14th – 15th century Chodzong Gompa ‘castle of the faith’ nearly at our height in the cliff-side ahead of us. Another translation, Chos Sung, translates as ‘books’ ‘listen to’ after the tradition of taking the books out of the gompa, walking them in a ‘kora’, and reading them to the nomads or villagers who would come for the readings. This is from local nomads.

We’ll spot our horses unloading below, and the staff setting up our campsite in this idyllic spot, not a Westerner in sight. Welcome to Matheissen’s hidden Mustang.

Have a quick scramble up to Cho Dzong Gompa, which Peter Matheissen wrote about in his book, ‘East of Lo Monthang’ and which houses some of the most important Buddhist artwork in Mustang. The main gompa has a lock on the door but you can hike up to a smaller gompa in back of the main one, possibly unlocked. Unfortunately the main cave entrance has now crumbled away and is inaccessible. Notice the tangle of antlers on top of the gompa roof, and the tsatsas in several of the caves. There is also an odd ‘baby yak’, stuffed, in one of the caves, but only some of our intrepid staff will be able to reach this dangerously situated cave. In the back of the cliff, now crumbling and inaccessible, is some of the most important artwork in the Tibetan Buddhist world. Unfortunately we won’t be able to see it, but the Italian art restorer Luigi Fini is making a book of the murals from this cave, perhaps the only ones that will ever be taken. (7-8 hrs)

Day 13 – Trek Northern Mesa Camp 4785m
Another remote route today as we head high up to the plateaus near the border of Tibet where some of the last nomadic families in Mustang used to live until the harsh conditions forced them down to the camp nearer to Lo Manthang. They have since moved down closer to Lo Monthang but still live in their traditional Tibetan tents, herding their yaks and tending their Pashmina goats and sheep.

We leave camp heading in the same direction as yesterday, following a long, ancient mani wall painted in red and many large chortens, all signifying the importance that this gompa enjoyed in years past. More caves, and an old mill site at the intersection to a small mill further indicate an importance now hard to imagine. Quickly we start to climb, and climb. As we ascend some of the world’s largest peaks come into view: Dhaulagiri, Niligiri, Thorung & Tilicho Peaks, Annapurna 1 and other 7000 and 8000 meter peaks rise impressively in back of us when we finally reach the top of the windy nomadic plateau.

Our campsite is the one pictured in Peter Matheissen’s book ‘East of Lo Manthang’, with nomads and their yak-haired tents backed by a towering Dhaulagiri, a fantastic spot. A prayer wall protects us from the north, and the border of Tibet is just an hour’s walk away, locals have told us. (5 hrs)

Day 14 – Trek Sam Dzong
EDIT
This is an exploratory day to reach Sam Dzong, a village which Lhakpa explored last year from Lo Manthang. Enjoy the adventure as we trek from the high plateaus down to Sam Dzong, another village nestled amongst craggy cliffs which will probably soon relocate because of lack of water. Sam Dzong is located along the Sam Dzong Khola at around 4000 meters, a starkly beautiful and traditional village.

Day 15 – Trek Lo Manthang 3820m
EDIT
We climb away from the small river and contour for a few hours until we reach the lower Chosar valley. From here we’ll have a dusty walk to Lo Monthang, probably along the road unless the locals know an alternative route. We may decide to camp somewhere in this valley for the night.

Finally we spot the ancient walls of the fabled city of Lo Manthang high on the plateau ahead of us. We head directly west following the gurgling, willow-shaded Dokpolo Khola for about an hour until we reach the gates of Lo Manthang. This is an wonderfully green section, with grassy river banks underfoot, stone walls bordering the river, and behind, backed by the snow-peaks bordering Tibet, the ruins of the once-imposing Lo Dzong.

We enter the outer walls of the city and head to Pema Bista’s campsite right at the walls to the city, under a small grove of ancient, sacred willows. The horses and crew will arrive behind us, so we will start exploring the maze-like alleyways of this fascinating village. Be prepared for the onslaught of tourism in Lo as vendors immediately find us and set up ‘shop’ next to the campsite. It’s not as pristine as it used to be, but just as mystical in the golden, yellow light as the local men bring their sheep and horses inside the city gates for the night. Perhaps, we we’ll have a cup of the infamous suija (salt butter tea) at Pema’s house in the afternoon, after visiting his shop. And we’ll have plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan peaks bordering Tibet.

Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital and its inhabitants called Lobas. Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings which we’ll have a chance to visit. There are even yeti (known here as mehti) prints rumored to be found.

Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (Abbot) were allowed to ride. All others must walk, to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, still resides at his four-storied palace inside the city walls; that is, when he’s not in Kathmandu. He is an avid horseman, and keeps his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, the king plays a somewhat ceremonial role although he is well loved and respected throughout Mustang. The present king is the 25th descendent of Ame Pal.

There are four major temples within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang, the 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang (the oldest gompa, built in 1387, with the striking 50 foot ‘Jampa’ (Future) Buddha, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago), 15th century Thubchen Gompa (Great Assembly hall, pillars 30 feet high, the second oldest gompa with fantastic murals in the Dukhang), Chhoede Gompa (where the Kempo lives, with a monastic school) and Choprang Gompa. There is also the Raja’s Palace, home to the present King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (who is from an aristocratic Lhasa family) and an interesting maze of a village to explore. There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry.

Days 16 + 17 – Lo Manthang, Chosar + Thinggar Valleys | Optional Trip Rinchin Ling + Konchok Ling Caves
We have two more wonderful days in this mythical walled capital known throughout the Tibetan Buddhist world. Some options below:

OPTION 1: Spend a day (or both) visiting the famous monasteries, wandering the labyrinthine alleyways of Lo Manthang, shopping for Tibetan and Mustangi artifacts and doing a ‘kora’ of the large complex. There is an amchi that runs a Tibetan herbal medicine clinic in town, two schools and even a coffee shop along with the increasing number of shops to visit.

OPTION 2: Visit the newly discovered Rinchin Ling cave complex, which requires a jeep, hiking up a steep hillside and entering the caves by a series of roped-together ladders carried up by local villagers for a fee. More about this on the trek, better to keep the details of these caves a bit quiet. We would also like to visit the cave complexes of Drakphuk and Konchung Ling. We will discuss with villagers the trail conditions and times, and find a guide if we decide to explore.

There is also an option to visit the Konchok Ling cave if the trail is in good condition. This little visited cave requires a seriously exposed hike along steep sided ridges, and a drop down using a rope, and is located north of the Chosar Cave complex.

OPTION 3: Visit the Chosar & Tinggar valleys on horseback
Disclaimer: Horses are a good way to visit both of these valleys but even on horseback it will be a long day. We take no responsibility for anything that may happen on a horse, and horses must be hired out apart from Kamzang Journeys. We will, of course, help with the arrangements.

Leaving Lo Manthang along a wide, canyon trail, past dry gullies and an ancient, ruined fortress, across a bridge and through a cultivated area, we finally view the cave village of Chosar, with the deep-red Nyphu Gompa built into the rock face. We’ll need to cross two bridges to arrive at the gompa, at 3760 meters. Plenty of time for photographs before rounding the chorten-toped bend, where we get views of Gharphu Gompa on the east banks of the Mustang Khola. Past the gompa is an incredible cave-dwelling site called Jhong Cave, which you negotiate by ladders and through small tunnels, very interesting and reputed to be 2500 years old. In front of us, a range of spectacular snow-peaks marks the border with Tibet, and around us gurgling streams and green meadows line our trail. If we take the long loop, we can stop at Nyamdo Gompa, ride over a small pass and then head back down the western valley to Lo.

The western valley leads to Namgyal Gompa (the Monastery of Victory), set spectacularly on top of a desolate ridge and the newest and most active gompa in Lo. The village of Namgyal spreads out past the Gompa. Just past the gompa is the large, sprawling village of Thingkar, where the King has his summer palace. There is a new gompa here, where we saw a puja (prayer ceremony) last year, and met most of the villagers! There are also many ancient ruins surrounding the village, some gompas and others old fortresses perhaps. Further on, we reach Kimaling village, which is an interesting, white-washed village surrounded by fields where we did some carpet shopping last year. Kimaling Gompa is below the village, on the way out as we head towards Phuwa and its gompa on the way down towards Lo. There are tremendous views of Namgyal Gompa backed by snow-peaks behind us as we wander up the valley, and white peaks in front of us bordering Tibet.

The Chosar valley was the main trading route with Tibet and Lhasa, and is peppered with the ruins of old fortresses guarding this strategic valley. Just north of this valley, over the border in Tibet, Lhakpa and I met a Tibetan man who still dealt in the trade of rare animal skins with Mustangi traders, a risky and of forbidden endeavor. It will be interesting to see if we can find out anything of this trade on the Nepal side of the border.

“Nyphu had all the elements one could wish in a mysterious sacred retreat, possessing all the snugness of an underground hive and the grandeur of an eagle’s nest.” — Michel Peissel, Mustang; A Lost Tibetan Kingdom

OPTION 4: Visit the Namgyal valley on foot, a trek that will take a good part of the day but is worth doing. Leaving Lo Monthang behind the main gate and passing threw the willow-lined, lower caste villages below, we climb up to Namgyal Gompa for a visit. The young novices studying here are from all reaches of the Tibetan Buddhist world. The village is also worth a quick wander. Continuing north on the road and passing several ruins of ancient, crumbling monasteries we soon reach the old capital of Thingkar (4025m) where the king still has his small summer palace. The small village gompa has been newly renovated, and it’s an interesting and colorful village to explore. Once on the opposite side of the winding alleyways we continue to hike north for about half an hour to Kimaling (4030m), just across a long suspension bridge. We’ve had some lovely experiences with the local villagers at Kimaling, who don’t see very many trekkers. You’ll find them weaving, washing textiles and herding their sheep and goats. We might stop for salt-butter tea at a new friend’s small homestay (home) near the local lhakang (temple). The return route heads straight down the valley to Phuwa village and eventually back to Lo Manthang.

Back at camp, dinner is on the fire, tea is brewing, and cold beers are available from the tea-shops, so relax and enjoy our last evening in this magical capital.

Day 18 – Trek Nomad Camp 4280m
Leaving Lo Manthang, we turn right out of the gate of Lo, cross a small bridge and head towards the high grazing plateaus of the nomads. Horses roam freely amongst the the crumbling walls and fields that surround Lo. We trek along the southern walls surrounding the city and hike for a few hours, following the valley bed, past the ruins of ancient fortresses and gompas. We climb the hill ahead of us, look back to the city-complex of Lo behind us, and drop down into the green valley below where to the ‘last nomads of Lo’ have now settled for most of the year. We have a bird-eye view over this scenic valley, dotted with nomadic tents of yak-hair, yaks, herds of sheep and goats, piles of yak dung and nomads. Several families live in this valley in their tents, and a few more in the valley over the next ridge.

We’ll possibly take a northern route to the nomad settlement depending on our plans ….

Our campsite is idyllic, set right next to a clear stream on a grassy, flat plateau looking down-valley over Himalayan peaks. We’ll visit the lively doksa later in the afternoon, perhaps being invited for a steaming cup of salt-butter tea and dried cheese. This is one of the last nomadic settlements in all of Nepal, a rare chance to see how real Tibetan nomads exist. We are quite high so it gets COLD in the evening. Sunsets and sunrises are perfect.

AFTERNOON TRIP: Hike over the hill to the north to visit the other nomadic settlements in the afternoon; all of the nomads were living in the Tibetan borderlands northeast of Lo Manthang, but many families moved to this spot about fifteen years ago to have better access to supplies, schools and medical facilities in Lo Manthang. From the hill between the camps, at the prayer flag, you can look right down to the walled city of Lo Manthang, a great view. Locals from Lo Manthang might come to the doksas to collect the sheep and goat dung that the nomads don’t use. We might get some yogurt from the nomads, delicious and fresh, and we can buy exquisite textiles from the nomads if we like.

Day 19 – Trek Tsarang 3575m | Via Lo Ghekar 3940m
It’s an off the beaten path trekking day today as we head to Lo Gekar, or Ghar Gompa, to the south of us. Leaving camp, we hike for half an hour up to a small pass with a cairn on the top, to the west of the Marang La. From the ridge we’ll have an easy, contouring descent through green doskas for an hour until we see see the imposing chortens of Ghar Gompa, or Lo Ghekar, which translates as ‘Pure Virtue of Joy’. Lo Ghekar, built in the 8th century, is one of the oldest gompas in Nepal. It belongs to the Nyimgma sect and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet as well as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means ‘house gompa’ after the style of architecture, and harbors many exemplary frescoes as well as wonderfully carved and painted mani stones. Surrounding the gompa are massive, block-like chortens of a unique style and strings of colorful prayer flags fluttering in the winds of Mustang.

The story of Lo Gekar: Samye Gompa, the oldest gompa in Tibet, was repeatedly destroyed by demons when it was being built. The head lama dreamed that Guru Rimpoche could help with the construction and invited him to the site. The great Guru Rimpoche found demons to be the problem, and suggested that they first build Lo Gekar. Guru Rimpoche killed the demons at the spot that Lo Gekar was soon to be constructed. The long mani wall just south of Dhakmar is said to have arisen from the intestines of the demon, and the red cliffs above Dhakmar the blood of the demon. After Lo Gekar was completed, Samye in eastern Tibet was also successfully built.

Heading directly down valley, we soon intersect the mail trail from Tsarang to Lo, and head south past the massive and newly re-constructed chorten along the trail. A few hours of easy trekking brings us to the fortified village of Tsarang, meaning ‘cock’s crest’, perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon. We walk between high walls to the south of the village, green with poplar and willow trees, and stop for a look at the Tsarang Gompa and its ruins, impressively built on a crag of rock. We we camp for the night at a lovely, grassy campsite called ‘Green Camping’ next to The Royal Mustang Holiday Inn run by a relative of the King, Maya Bista, the Palace and Gompa visible in the near distance.

Tsarang is a large village of 83 houses (population 400) built on top of the Tsarang Khola canyon, one of the later capitals of the Kingdom of Lo in the 14th century. Stone walls separate the houses and form tunnel-like paths, a new irrigation ditch lines the main street, and willow groves turn the village green. Tsarang bustles with its many shops, its own hydro-electric plant and quite a few guest houses and visitors. It is dominated by the massive, crumbling five-story Tsarang Dzong, a Tibetan-styled fortified palace built in 1378, and the large, ochre-hued Tsarang Gompa, built in 1385, of the Sakya sect and with the greatest library in Lo (the palace also has a great library). The dzong and palace were both built by Ame Pal and the other of the ‘Three Sangpos’. The palace has a wonderful, old prayer room with a gold-printed prayer book and a fascinating array of statues, thankas and large Buddha paintings that the resident lama will show you, and the withered 500 year old hand of the master architect of the palace. Tsarang Gompa is adorned with fantastic 15th century frescos on the assembly hall walls; don’t miss the older prayer room in back, once an ‘ani gompa’, or nunnery. Elaborate sand mandalas are created at the gompa at festival time, and then ceremonially deposited into the river at the festival’s end. Ekai Kawaguchi stayed nine months here in 1899, and Michel Peissel spent time with the Abbot of Tsarang, the king’s brother (the present king’s father) during his time in Mustang. Peissel said of Tsarang:
“The city appeared like magic, as if a great artist, tired of this arid land, had decided to paint a fairy artwork on this wild canvas background.”

Take a walk through the maze of paths to the dzong and friendly gompa before dinner, and stop in at one of the many shops for a look. Many of the wealthier homes here have family shrines which you might be lucky enough to be invited to see. The local women will be herding their sheep through the narrow, walled paths as dusk as the snow pigeons circle, shimmering, under the setting sun … (6-7 hrs)

Day 20 – Trek Zaite 3840m | Cross Ghemi La 3520m + Nyi La 4010m
A morning walk through the maze of Tsarang’s alleyways leads to the massive, brightly pained chorten which guards the entrance to Tsarang, and then hike along the dirt road for about an hour, soon reaching the Tsarang La (3870m). From the large cairn topped with Tibetan prayer flags, or lung-ta, we switchback steeply down to the bottom of the valley. Just ahead is a cluster of ancient chortens, some of the most massive in the Tibetan world, backed by dramatic, sculpted cliff-faces and said to be 1500 years old (the same as Lo Gekar); an awesome sight. The trail looks across the valley to ochre, blue and steel-grey cliffs, and leads us past tri-colored chortens and perhaps the longest and most spectacular mani wall in Mustang, behind which is the hospital.

After a short, steep descent we directly cross the new bridge and climb briefly up to Ghemi (3570m), built along the steep edges of the cliff as are many fortified villages in Mustang. There are actually the ruins of an old fortress somewhere in Ghemi, which was largely abandoned until the Khampa fighters set up a magar (war camp) here and brought new life and wealth to the village. We’ll wander a bit through this interesting village, passing the mani walls and prayer wheels, perhaps finding the key-keeper to open the Ghemi Gompa for us.

After lunch (or perhaps we’ll eat at the pass) we’ll continue on to Zaite, another 2 hours away up and over the Ghemi La. From Ghemi it’s a straight-forward climb to the Ghemi La (3520m) from where there are beautiful views down to Ghemi. Contouring to the south, we continue to climb gradually for another hour or so to the Nyi La (4010m), where we’re treated to Himalayan panoramas including Annapurna 1 and beautiful Niligiri, as well as the clusters of white-washed villages. A short hike down the pass brings us to the Geling intersection, a lovely village with an ancient, ochre gompa, a sponsored school and cave complexes. From here we continue straight for about ten minutes to our lovely, green and sheltered campsite at Zaite. From the campsite we have great views of the Himalayan peaks to our south: Thorung Peak, Annapurna l and Tilicho amongst them. (6 hrs)

Dhakmar Route | Alternative Route Cross Mui La 4130m + 4175m
After a look at the ‘lha-khangs’ or prayer rooms of the gompa, we start up an easy series of passes, the Mui La (4130m) and its second ridge (4175m). We’ll stop for a break, gazing out at the Himalayan peaks in the distance. Blue sheep graze in these arid hillsides, their tracks stripping the otherworldly ridges, and griffins and choughs soar in the clear, blue Mustangi skies overhead. Climb the small hill to the left of the cairn; the views down the Dhakmar Valley are breath-taking, as is the sight of our horses descending into the tunnel-like pass. Rested, we descend steeply through the canyon and spires, dropping way down to dwellings and green pasture lands below. 20 minutes later, past the prayer flags at the start of the village, we reach the lively, sprawling village of Dhakmar (3820m), dominated by a dramatic, red canyon wall with many ancient cave dwellings. Across the stream on the western side is an old gompa. Sunsets against the red cliffs, which house Himalayan griffins and lammergeyers, are fantastic …

“Dhakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures illustrate a well known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rimpoche eviscerated a huge demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red and purple-grey.” — Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door

Following the small stream through the lower part of the village, green with old willows and more recently planted poplars, we continue hiking through a scenic, green valley, stopping occasionally for passing herds of sheep and goats. After crossing the small bridge, we reach the large chortens on the outskirts of Ghemi.

Day 21 – Trek Samar 3605m or Chhusang 2980m | Cross Syangboche La 3825m
From Zaite, we continue on to Samar over the Syangboche La, with an option to visit the Chungsi caves en route …

From camp, we climb gradually, mostly along the small, dusty road, to reach the Syangboche La at 3825m meters. After a few photos of the dramatic Himalayan vista, with Annapurna 1, Niligiri and the peaks north bordering Tibet. We’ll drop down to small Syangboche village just below the pass and perhaps split into two groups.

CHUNGSI CAVES OPTION | Cross Chungsi La 3810m
Once below Syangboche, we veer off to the left and descend into the valley, past seasonal doksas and shepherds herding their flocks of sheep and goats, on the eastern route to Samar via the important Chungsi Caves, at 3425 meters. En route, we see many nests of Himalayan Griffins high up in the cliff-faces, noticeable from their white below them (vulture droppings), and will see these majestic birds with their three meter wing-spans circling high above us. It should take us about an hour to reach the Chungsi Caves, one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s meditation caves. Up a series of rock steps to the entrance, and inside are fantastic ‘rangjung’ or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens, ‘Tara’s terraced fields’ and others Buddhist relics. The old caretaker is from Gheling. *** See page 144, Tucci.

We’ve now got a steep but spectacular walk in front of us as we head towards Samar, which means ‘red earth’ in Mustangi. We climb high up into an incredible, vast canyon, with wonderful, expansive views the entire time, and reach the Chungsi La (3810m) , approximately 500 meters above the cave. Then down, again steeply, to the Jhuwa and Samarkhung Kholas, and back up the switch-backing trail to the entrance chorten of Samar. A good day’s trekking! (6-7 hrs)

HIGH ROUTE (cross Yamda La 3985m & Bhene La 3840m)
The other, shorter and easier route, entails hiking over the Yamda La (3985m) and then the Bhena La (3840m), but on a ‘Himalayan flat’ trail, so the ups and downs aren’t so steep and you’ll stay relatively at the same altitude between passes. After the Bhena La there is a steep drop down to the intersecting stream, which is crossed on a small bridge, and then another two small climbs until reaching the entrance chorten at Samar.

Lovely Samar is visible just below us, with its lovely poplar grove and flat-roofed houses, formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet. The Annapurna range, still dominated by Nilgiri, is visible to the south, a fantastic backdrop. We’ll set up camp on the green, shaded grounds of the New Annapurna Guest House, one of our favorite campsites and the owned by good friends Namygal Gurung. His brother Karma used to be our horseman, and is now one of our guides. Relax, have a wash in the cold stream next to the grassy, campsite and enjoy the afternoon and sunset over the Himalayan peaks in this charming village. Showers are available inside the lodge and feel free to go into the kitchen for a cup of salt-butter tea. (5-6 hrs)

NOTE: We may trek another 2 1/2 to 3 hours back down the steep trail to Tsaile and then on to Chhusang …

Day 22 – Trek Chhusang 2950m. Drive Jomsom 2720m
Trekking almost finished, but we’ll start the day with a couple of hours of hiking to reach our jeeps at Chhusang. It’s an easy hike up the Dajori La (3600m), and a long, wonderful descent, past the Gurung village of Gyakar across the new suspension bridge, along our cliff-side canyon trail back to Tsaile, down and back across the tunnel bridge, and then along the riverbed for about 20 minutes to Chhusang.

There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to the seventeenth centuries.

We’ll drive south on the east bank of the Kali Gandaki along the new road, high up on the plateaus above the river-bed, all the time with magnificent views from all sides. We head north past the red, white and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m) three hours past Kagbeni. Tangbe is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley. The village of Tiri Gaon sits on the west bank of the river.

Soon we reach Jomsom and are are greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans, and beautiful textiles are woven by hand looms in the traditional style, readily available for sale. Yak tails to adorn your horses or dust your house are also sold. We arrive in Jomsom along a long, cobbled trail in time for lunch, with the afternoon free to wander, wash and shop. We’ll celebrate our trek through ‘Forbidden’ Mustang at the Trekker’s Lodge in the evening, handing out tips, extra gear and a few beers to our fantastic staff … (3 hrs, 2 hrs driving)

Day 23 – Fly to Pokhara + Kathmandu
We’ll be up early again for our mountain flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, flying between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South before landing in balmy Pokhara. We re-board another plane in Pokhara for our short, scenic flight to Kathmandu, 198 east of Pokhara, flying high above the north-south rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. We pass over terraced villages and green hills with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance.

In Kathmandu, rooms are booked, showers are hot and laundry can be dropped off. We’ll meet for a farewell dinner tonight although we advise keeping an extra few days in Kathmandu post-trek …
.
NOTE: In the case of flight cancellation out of Jomsom everyone will be responsible for their rooms and meals at Trekkers Inn.

Day 24 – Kathmandu
An extra day in Kathmandu for shopping, koras at Boudha or in case of a flight delay out of Pokhara or Jomsom.

Day 25 – Trip Ends
Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) for your flight home. Namaste!

2018 Dates
3 – 24 May
22 Days

2018 Trek Price
$

2019 Dates
March – April
26 Days

2019 Trek Price
$

+ Single Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House – $75
+ Single Upgrade Pokhara, Jomsom Hotels – $50 (2018) – $90 (2019)
+ Single Upgrade Luxury Hotel Rooms – $495
+ NO Single Supplement for Trek (Single Tents!)
+ Price for 5+ Trekkers

Chitwan Extension
$500

Includes

• Western + Sherpa Guide | Kim + Lhakpa Sherpa
• Upper Mustang Permit
• Annapurna Conservation Area Permit
• Kathmandu Guest House
• Hotels En Route to Trek
• Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
• Airport Transfers
• Domestic Flights + Departure Taxes
• NO Single Supplement on Trek
• Kamzang Journeys Trekking
  Marmot (or similar Western) tents, ‘gourmet’ food with seasonal, fresh produce, French-press coffee, chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, library, ‘lounge’ with colorful Indian rugs, camp chairs, blankets, occasional tent music in evenings, oxygen & PAC bag (when needed), full medical kit, horses, yaks or porters, Western, Sherpa & local guides (when needed), our 5-star Kamzang staff + the signature yellow Kamzang dining tent. NO single supplement for single tents on trek!

Safety & Health Precautions

• Thuraya Satellite Phone
• InReach Satellite Messaging System (Free Texts on Trek)
• Updated Route Published on InReach Site
• Helicopter Evacuation Services (excluding cost of evacuation)
• Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
• PAC Bag (Portable Oxygen Chamber)
• Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
• Kayadyn Filtered Drinking Water
• Safe, sanitary, delicious & plentiful food + drinks

Excludes

• International Flights
• Travel Medical + Travel Insurance (both required)
• Nepal Visa
• Helicopter Evacuation
• Meals (while not on trek)
• Monastery Donations
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol, Sodas & Packaged Drinks
• Laundry
• Tips

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $250 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

Kamzang Journeys | Camping Menus
All meals on our Kamzang Journeys camping treks and cycling trips are prepared on site by our excellent chef Junar, our assistant chef Yam, and the hard-working kitchen team. The kitchen staff is well-trained in keeping the kitchen and food sanitized, and we sterilize all dishes, cups and utensils by steaming in boiling water before every use. All fruits and vegetables are soaked in iodine &/or baking soda, and our dining tent is well stocked with hand sanitizer, with soap and water for washing hands in front of the tent. 

Much of our produce on the trip is organic, sourced from local villages to ensuring that it’s fresh, plentiful and sustainable We also buy meat, grains, potatoes, staples and whatever possible en route to provide much needed income to the local villagers. We cater to all sorts of dietary restrictions, including vegetarians and vegans, gluten-free, dairy-free and those with various food allergies and preferences. All of our meals are vegetarian, although most meals have additional meat options. Types of food we serve on our camping trips range from Asian (Nepali, Indian, Tibetan, Thai and Chinese) to Italian and Mexican, and we always have PLENTY of food to fill you up, and keep you fueled for the next day’s adventures!

Just one of the many reasons our trekkers and cyclists return year after year.  A taste of what you’ll enjoy on our camping treks …

Breakfast
Freshly Ground Organic Coffee, Masala Chai & Teas
Freshly Baked Farmers’ Bread
Freshly Baked Wheat, Oat & Raisin Bread
Choice Of Eggs
Mexican, French & Masala Omelets
Aloo Anda (Potatoes & Scrambled Eggs)
Breakfast Burritos (Eggs, Tomatoes, Salsa, Cheese & Chapatti)
Huevos Rancheros (Eggs Rice, Beans Salsa & Chapatti)
Homemade Muesli
Porridges (Oat, Tsampa & Barley)
Crepes (Lemon, Chocolate & Local Apricot Jam)
Croissants (Sesame, Chocolate & Cheese)
Pancakes (Apple, Banana, Stacked & Buckwheat)
Dutch Baby Pancakes
Apple, Currant & Cinnamon Muffins
Cinnamon Spiced Rice Pudding
Cinnamon Rolls
Swedish Cardamon Rolls
Glazed Doughnuts
French Toast & Honey
Tibetan Bread With Local Jam
Cinnamon Sugar Chapattis
Masala Parathas & Sambar
Hash Browns
Fresh Fruit

Breads
Freshly Baked Farmers’ Bread
Freshly Baked Wheat & Oat Bread
Freshly Baked Cinnamon, Raisin & Nut Bread
Sun-Dried Tomato & Rosemary Flat Bread
Olive & Sundried Tomato Bread
Jalapeno & Cheese Corn Bread
Irish Soda & Currant Bread
Banana Bread
Zucchini Bread
Millet & Buckwheat Pancakes
Tai Roti (Paneer & Potato Bread)
Whole Wheat Roti & Chapattis
Cheese Biscuits
T Mo:Mos (Steamed Tibetan Bread)

Trail Lunch
Freshly Baked Breads
Himalayan Cheese
Herb & Olive Oil Paneer (Cottage Cheese)
Homemade Hummus & Baba Ghanoush
Herb & Olive Oil Infused Sun-Dried Tomatoes
Quinoa, Local Beans & Tahini Salad
Beet, Carrot & Cabbage Salad
Vegetable Fried Rice, Pilau & Biriyani
Kashmiri Rice (Coconut, Spices & Raisins)
Egg Fried, Lemon & Caribbean Tomato Rice
Mexican Rice & Beans
Thai Vegetable & Coconut Fried Rice
Vegetable Fried Potatoes
Potato & Celery Salad
Vegetable Fried Noodles
Chop Suey (Crispy Raman Noodles & Vegetables)
Tossed Pasta, Vegetable & Olive Oil Salads
Indian Samosas & Sweet Thai Chili
Millet Tabbouleh & Falafel
Smoked Salami
Tuna Salad
Deviled Eggs

Camp Lunch
Grilled Sandwiches (Tomato & Cheese, Cheese & Salami, Tuna & Cheese)
Tzadziki Wraps (Grilled Vegetables, Yogurt & Garlic)
Roasted Vegetable & Hummus Wraps
Asian Sesame & Bok Choy Noodles
Vegetable Spring Rolls & Asian Dipping Sauce
Chana Puri (Indian Chick Pea & Potato Ragout)
Sherpa Sha-Phaklay (Fried Mutton Flat Bread)
Baked Hand Pies (Vegetable & Paneer, Ham & Pea)
Thai Red Curry Coconut Noodles

Salads
Caesar Salad (Local Greens & Croutons)
Salad Niçoise & Isreali Salad
Beets, Paneer & Bread Panzanella

Soups & Stews
Fresh Pumpkin & Rosemary Soup
Fresh Potato & Spring Onion Soup
Fresh Carrot & Cilantro Soup
Fresh Chinese Tomato, Egg & Bok Choy Soup
Fresh Spinach & Mushroom Soup
Fresh Lentil & Local Beans Soup
French Onion Soup (Croutons & Cheese)
Fresh Nettle Soup
Spiced Coconut Carrot Soup
Fresh Pureed White & Black Bean Soup
Thai Tom Yum & Tom Kaa Soups (Bean Noodles)
Sherpa Shakpa (Potato, Shitake Mushroom & Vegetable Soup)
Tibetan Thukpa Noodle & Vegetable Soup
Asian Dried Mushroom, Ginger & Noodle Soup
Ramen Noodles With Egg & Vegetables
Thai Coconut & Coriander Soup
Tuscan Bread & Tomato Soup
Tomato Egg Drop Soup
Hot & Sour Soup With Chinese Dumplings
Spiced Chickpea Stew With Coconut & Turmeric

Dinner | General
Pizzas
Mexican Burritos
Mexican Baked Enchiladas & Rice-Beans
Southwestern Bean & Spinach Chili
Grilled Chicken & Mashed Potatoes
Quiche
Frittata
Couscous, Ratatouille & Italian Beans
Steamed Mo:Mos (Spinach, Paneer & Garlic, Potato & Cheese, Mutton)
Sherpa Potato Pancakes & Somar (Fermented Cheese, Green Onions & Chili)
Sherpa Shakpa (Potato & Vegetable, Potato (&/Or Meat) Stew)
Tibetan Thukpa (Noodle, Vegetable Soup)
Potato, Cheese, Onion (& Ham) Casserole
Mutton & Vegetable-Lentil Burgers
Polenta, Baked Vegetables & Cheese
Tuscan Fish & Potato Ragout
Gnocchi
Sushi Rolls

Dinner | Pasta
Spaghetti, Linguine & Penne Pastas
Italian Pasta Sauces (Vegetable, Garlic & Olive Oil, Bolognaise, Puttanesca, Carbonara)
Tossed Pastas (Pesto & Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Sautéed Garlic, Olives & Mushroom)
Lasagna (Spinach, Mushroom, Eggplant & Tomato)
Ravioli With Tomato, Spinach & Garlic Sauce (Mushroom & Spinach, Mushroom & Cheese, Ham, Pumpkin & Rosemary)
Mongolian Fried Sesame & Ginger Noodles (Vegetable & Mutton)

Dinner | Rice
Thai Masman, Panang, Red & Green Coconut Curries (Vegetable Or Chicken)
Bhutanese Ema Datsi (Chili & Cheese, Mushroom Or Potato)
Palak Paneer (Spinach & Paneer)
South Indian Coconut Vegetable & Chicken Curries
Shahi Paneer, Vegetable & Chicken Curries (Yogurt)
Butter Chicken & Mutton Masala Curries
Indian Masala Curries (Vegetable, Cauliflower, Mushroom, Pumpkin, Potato & Pea)
Masala Kofta (Potato & Paneer Curry)
Dal Makani (Black Dal & Butter) & Local Dals (Lentil Curries)
Asian Ginger Broccoli & Sesame Cabbage
Asian Black Bean Sauce (Vegetables & Tofu)
Chinese Egg & Tomato Curry
Chinese Stir-Fried Vegetables
Poha (Indian Flattened Rice)

Vegetables, Beans & Potatoes
French Fries (Chips)
Mashed Garlic & Roasted Potatoes
Italian Rosemary Sauteed Potatoes
Roasted Rosemary Beets & Sweet Potatoes
Italian Sauteed White Beans, Cabbage & Potatoes
Italian Sauteed Garlicky White Beans, Broccoli (Kale) & Lemon
Lana’s Stacked Green Vegetables (& Cheese)
Mashed Garlic Cauliflower
Baked Zucchini & Egg Casserole
Eggplant & Zucchini Parmesan
Stuffed Capsicum, Squash & Zucchini
Steamed Broccoli & Cauliflower, Olive Oil & Lemon
Coconut Sesame Vegetables
Japanese Vegetable Tempura
Chinese Ginger Vegetables
Alu Sandekho

Snacks
Cheese, Pate & Crackers
Potato Cheese Balls
Masala Papadum & Peanuts
Jalapeños & Cheese Quesadilla
Bruschetta (Tomato, Olive Oil & Olive Tapenade)
Garlic & Olive Oil Crustini
Tempura (Vegetables, Paneer & Rice Flour)
Pakora (Vegetables & Chick Pea Flour)
Green Pea Guacamole
Stuffed Pea Parathas
Indian Pakora & Tempura
Fried Potato, Rice & Corn Snacks
Cumin Nimkins

Desserts
Fresh Fruit Salad
Coffee-Infused Dark Chocolate Dumplings
Chocolate, Muesli & Nut Fortune Cookie Pastries
‘Marie’ Rum, Raisin & Chocolate Balls
Mango & Apple Cinnamon Crepes
Apple Pie & Crisp (Crumble)
Apple & Apricot Tarte
Apple, Apricot, Banana, Papaya & Plum Cobblers
Apple & Banana Fritters
Banana Flambe
Gulab Jamun (Indian Doughnut Holes)
Homemade Spiced Apple Sauce
Homemade Apple Pie
Apple, Carrot, Ginger & Pumpkin Spice Cakes
Bread & Butter Pudding
Spiced Pumpkin & Apple Suiji
Grated Apple Suji (Indian Semolina)
Soan Papdi (Indian Halva) & Kheer
Dark & White Chocolate Chunk Custard
Chocolate Chunk Pan Cookies
Dark Chocolate-Covered Digestives
Chai Masala Cookies
Lemon Bars
Brownies
No-Bake Chocolate Oat Bars (Peanut Butter)
Dark Chocolates

Coffee, Teas & Hot Drinks
Organic Coffee Beans
Masala Chail
Kashmiri Spiced Green Tea
Green & Assam Teas
Variety Of Dilmah Teas
Hot Chocolate
Lemon Ginger Tea

Grog
Kamzang Hot Rum Punch
Local Beers & Rum

Kamzang Journeys Reviews

Client Highlights + Reviews
Trekkers’ Comments

Trip Highlights

• Our Unique Bicycle Trip Through Incredible Upper Mustang
• Once Forbidden Walled City of Lo Manthang (Lo Monthang)
• Luri Gompa, Tashi Kabum + the Sky Caves of Upper Mustang (Tibetan Buddhist + Burial Caves)
• Konchok Ling + Rinchin Ling Caves
• Ancient, Crumbling Fortresses, Palaces + Vave Hermitages
• The Incredible Buddhist Monasteries + Murals of Upper Mustang
• Remote Trek Through ‘Old Tibet’,
• Khampa Settlements, Tibetan Architecture + Customs
• Camping with Tibetan Nomads with their Yaks, Sheep + Pashmina Goats
• Incredible Sculpted Valleys, Wild Rock Formations, Deep River Gorges + Saligrams
• Remote, Endlessly Fascinating Nar Village
• Classic Scenery of the High Tibetan Plateau
• The Kali Gandaki Gorge + Fossil Collecting
• Kamzang Journeys Boutique Trekking Style
• Single Tents with NO Single Supplement!

Client Comments
Kamzang Journeys trips are, without a doubt, the best way to take a ‘regular’ destination and turn it into a great adventure that goes above and beyond. If a normal tour trip does something, Kamzang Kim will do it better. If the normal itinerary goes to the normal spots, Kamzang Journeys will take you to the less-known, rarely-visited, special and fantastic places. And on top of that? Kim and Lhakpa are a true pleasure to deal with, and make the process fun. The details are taken care of. The camps have a personal touch. Everywhere you go, they know the locals. Everywhere you camp, you feel at home. What more could a trekker ask for?
– Alex P, (Canada) Sky Caves + Last Nomads of Upper Mustang Trek 2017

Kim and her Kamzang Journeys team are fantastic! The food was excellent, love the cinnamon scrolls  Kim and all of her crew do a great job of looking after everyone. After a long days trekking it was great to see the Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness ready and waiting with hot tea and snacks 
– Colin B (Australia), Sky Cave + the Last Nomads of Mustang Trek Spring 2017

I have done numerous treks in the Himalayan region over the last 25 years, and I would rate Kamzang Journeys at the top of my list for trekking companies. Excellent service, attention to detail, great food, good equipment, friendly and competent staff. We had far more snow than normal on our March-April trek, and alternate plans were made while sticking as much as possible to the original itinerary. The crew went above and beyond to help us get where we wanted to go. Pay attention to the trip description. They travel to out of the way places and take the more difficult route – on purpose!
– Kate C (USA), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2015

I must say that on reflection there was a lot more that I got out this trek than I initially realized. We faced many challenges due to unseasonal weather but Kim and Lhakpa always found a way to get us where we needed to be. Kamzang Journeys provides a unique experience that is backed by professionals who go out of their way to make the trek as exciting and enjoyable as possible. Would really recommend Kamzang Journeys to anyone who is looking for a great Himalayan experience!
– Greg W (Australia), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2015

Thanks again for the absolutely spectacular trip, and hopefully we won’t delay nearly as long next time in making our way back to Nepal!
– Anne P (Canada), GHT | Nar Phu to Upper Mustang Trek 2014

Mustang is a must with Kim! In 2013 I was lucky enough to trek with Kim through the upper mustang region of Nepal. This was my second trip to Nepal but my first with Kamzang Journeys. Kim and her talented crew created a welcoming and safe environment to explore the upper mustang region including the highlight of visiting the last nomads in Nepal. Kim’s organisational skills and connections in the region insured any unforeseen circumstances were dealt with humour and a minimum of fuss. I will never forget this experience and look forward to many years of trekking with Kim and Kamzang Journeys. Kim, Thanks to you & Lhakpa for the fantastic adventure you gave us! You kept us safe and gave us memories that will stay with us forever. I had so much fun and so many laughs, a Kamzang adventure!
– Sue W (Australia), GHT | Nar Phu to Upper Mustang Trek 2013

I did the Upper Mustang Trek in 2011 and the Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek in 2012 with Kim and her outstanding crew, and am going back again this coming April. 
Kim is truly professional, reliable, safe and very organized. Kim and Lhakpa’s knowledge of these remote countries make you feel so relaxed that you just enjoy the scenery everyday. They also know the people in the different villages we go through. At camp the food is excellent, clean and gear is top. 
It is an incredible experience!
– Nan (France), Sky Caves & the Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2011, Sacred Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek 2012

Thank you for making this trip one of the most memorable ones in my lifetime. You have been a friend when I needed one, a leader when the group needed one, an impeccable organizer and a great conversationalist. I marvel at your unlimited energy.
– Shivan M (USA, India), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2011

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip + Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Kamzang Journeys | Country + Regional Photos
Kamzang Journeys Photos

Kamzang Journeys Group Photos
Group Photos

Himalayan Photos
Himalayan Wildlife Photos

Himalayan Bird Photos

Himalayan Flower Photos

Market + Street Food Photos
Asian Markets + Street Food

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Clear Sky, Red Earth: A Himalayan Story – Sienna Craig + Tenzin Norbu

Articles + Documentaries on Mustang

Upper Mustang – Kamzang Journeys Trek | Colin + Pauline’s Blog

Myths & Mountains in Nepal | New York Times

Cave People of the Himalayas | National Geographic

Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic

Lost Treaures of Tibet | PBS Documentary

The Ancient Mysteries of Mustang’s Caves | BBC

Sky Caves of Nepal | National Geographic

Cave People of the Himalaya | PBS

New Death Ritual Found in Himalaya | National Geographic

Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge | Al Jazeera

Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge (YouTube) | Al Jazeera

Foreign Correspondent: The Road | ABC

Mustang: Lives & Landscape of the Lost Tibetan Kingdom | Photo Essay – Global Oneness Project

Before They Pass Away (Photos) | Jimmy Nelson

Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art

Nepal Diary: A Gift of Sight Expedition

Buddhists, Reconstructing Sacred Tibetan Murals, Wield Their Brushes in Nepal | New York Times

Earth Door Sky Door – Paintings of Mustang by Robert Powell | Asian Art

How Tibetans Survive on the Roof of the World |

Modernizing Mustang

A Fortress in the Sky: The Last Forbidden Kingdom of Tibetan Culture (Photo Essay) | Washington Post

Himalayan Healers | Nepali Times

Mustang, the Kingdom of Lo (parts from Kamzang Journeys)

Last King of Mustang Dies at 86 – My Republica

Last King of Remote Buddhist Kingdom Dies in Nepal – Indian Express

Documentary Movies on Mustang
Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic | Leisl Clark (Director)YouTube Download
YouTube Preview

Mustang: Hidden World Beyond the Himalaya | Ghang-Tuk Tsokpa Film (Available in Kathmandu)
YouTube Preview

Kamzang Journeys Contact
Kim Bannister
kim@kamzang.com
kamzangkim@gmail.com
Mobile: +(977) 9803414745 (WhatsApp), 9863196743
On-Trek Satellite Phone: +88216 21277980 (Nepal)

Kathmandu Contact
Khumbu Adventures
hiking.guide@gmail.com
Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841235461, 9705235461
Doma Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841510833, 9705510833
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa Mobile: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Follow Us on Facebook
Kamzang Journeys Facebook

Kathmandu Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House

Nepal Tourist Visas
You can get your Nepal visa at TIA International Airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home at a Nepali Embassy or Consulate. When you arrive at immigration in Kathmandu, scan your passport at the visa machines (no photo needed) or produce your online, printed visa-on-arrival form, pay the visa fee, and go to the appropriate immigration line.
15 Days – $30
30 Days – $50
90 Days – $125
Tourist Visa Extension (15 days) – $45 (+$3 Additional Day))
Nepal Visa

Nepal Visa Information
Kathmandu Guest House
Ward: 16, Street name: Saatghumti, Area: Thamel, District: Bagmati, City: Kathmandu, Zone: Bagmati, Phone: +977 14700004‬

Health Information 
Nepal Health Information
CDC

We also recommend bringing probiotics with you to help prevent infections while on trek. Doctor’s recommendation!

Travel Medical Insurance
Required for your own safety. We carry a copy of your insurance with all contact, personal and policy information with us on the trek and our office in Kathmandu keeps a copy. Note that we almost always trek over 4000 meters (13,000′) and that we don’t do any technical climbing with ropes, ice axes or crampons.

Global Rescue Rescue Services
We recommend (but don’t require) that our trekkers sign up for Global Rescue services as a supplement to your travel medical insurance. You can book this directly through our Kamzang Journeys site.
Global Rescue

Medical On-Trek
Please do have a full check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety. Your guides bring a small medical kit, but you’ll want your own medications with you. 

DO bring all prescription medications and rehydration powders-electrolytes. We advise bringing your own Diamox, Ciprofloxin, Azithromycin + Augmentin. We do have all of these with us, but the Western versions are generally more reliable than the Indian equivalents. See Gear List for a full list of recommended medications for the trek.

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

Notes on Itinerary
Although we try to follow our trek itinerary, it is ONLY a guideline based on years of experience trekking in many Himalayan regions. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group’s acclimatization rate or sickness, or improved campsites and lodges.

The Himalaya are our passion, and we take our trekking and cycling trips seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure …

Arrival in Kathmandu
You will be met at the airport by a representative from Khumbu Adventures (see Contact & Details tab). Look for a sign with your name on it as you leave the airport. You will be transferred to the Kathmandu Guest House where your rooms have been pre-booked … Please hydrate!

Nepal Tourist Visas
You can get your Nepal visa at TIA International Airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home at a Nepali Embassy or Consulate. When you arrive at immigration in Kathmandu, scan your passport at the visa machines (no photo needed) or produce your online, printed visa-on-arrival form, pay the visa fee, and go to the appropriate immigration line. 
15 Days – $30
30 Days – $50
90 Days – $125
Tourist Visa Extension (15 days) – $45 (+$3 Additional Day))
Nepal Visa

Nepal Visa Information
Kathmandu Guest House
Ward: 16, Street name: Saatghumti, Area: Thamel, District: Bagmati, City: Kathmandu, Zone: Bagmati, Phone: +977 14700004‬

Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House

International Medical Center Kathmandu
CIWEC

Nepal Temperatures + Clothing
See Gear Tab for trekking and cycling clothing, as well as medical supplies recommendations.

Kathmandu during the spring and autumn trekking seasons is usually quite warm (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirts) during the day, and gets chilly (light fleece or jacket) in the late afternoon and evenings. Nights can be cold enough for a sweater and/or jacket, or warm enough for t-shirts. Summer is hotter and wetter, and you’ll need a rain jacket and umbrella. The winter months (late Nov – March) are chilly in the mornings and evenings, cold enough that you might start the day in a down jacket, but often warming up enough to wear a t-shirt by mid-day. Nights get cold enough for a down jacket if you’re sitting outside, although many restaurants have heaters or fire pits. It never snows in Kathmandu. Keens, Chacos or other hiking sandals are great for wandering around Kathmandu, and for trekking in lower altitudes. Crocs are good to have for rooms, showers and at camp when trekking or cycling.

Trekking is a mixed bag of temperatures. LAYERS are the key as hot can change quickly to freezing crossing the passes and snowfalls are common. We often have some rain below 3000 meters in the spring and early autumn, and it can rain hard in the summer. Have a wide range of layer-able trekking clothes for summer to winter temperatures. Keep a lightweight down jacket or synthetic jacket with you at all times, available inexpensively in Kathmandu. A lightweight rain poncho and umbrella for trekking are recommended in the spring and summer seasons. Be prepared! See our ‘Gear’ tab for full details on gear, shoes, clothing, electronics, and meds for the trek.

There are lots of real gear shops (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Sherpa Gear, OR) and many ‘fake’ and Nepali-made shops in Kathmandu, so if you don’t think you have the right gear starting the trip, it is easy to pick up gear once in Kathmandu. We have sleeping bags to rent, duffel bags, camp towels and buffs to purchase, and you’ll get a FREE Kamzang Journeys t-shirt for the trip!

Dress conservatively in Kathmandu and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are okay if they aren’t too short, short mini skirts aren’t recommended. Sleeveless t-shirts are absolutely fine, but perhaps avoid skimpy tank tops on the trail. Super tight lycra and very skimpy doesn’t go over so well with village elders or remote villagers, and will generally limit your ability to have meaningful interactions with Nepali villagers. Many of the younger generation in Nepal wear modern Indian or Western-influenced clothes but remember that you haven’t signed up for a beach or surf vacation. Use your good judgment, and be an ambassador for western travelers! Please ask Kim or your guide if unsure about appropriate clothing, we’re always happy to advise.

Nepal Cultural Issues
Nepalis are very open and welcoming, but there are a few issues you should be aware of to make your stay in Nepal more fulfilling. Use your right hand to pass things, shake hands or do most anything. Left hands are somewhat taboo. Nepalis often place their left hand on the right forearm when passing things to others, a sign of respect. Best not to pat kids on heads, or point feet ahead of you at monasteries. Don’t walk over someone’s legs or feet, but put your hand down in front of you to signal them to pull their legs to the side. Take off shoes and hats when going into Buddhist monasteries and Hindu temples, don’t use flashes inside monasteries or temples if possible and be respectful when attending pujas (prayer ceremonies). You can talk and move around, all religious are very tolerant, but be aware of your level of voice and where you are walking. Don’t sit on Buddhist monastery benches, they are used as tables. You will often be shown to low, carpeted sitting areas in the back of a monastery. If you’re served tea, it’s fine to accept (in fact, the servers will be happy to give you tea), but also fine to say ‘no thank you’, putting your hand up. If you don’t want more tea, often the salt-butter variety, simply cover your cup with your hand.  

Nepalis don’t anger quickly in general, so try not to raise your voice if exasperated or angry as it only will make the situation worse. Do bargain at shops, with taxis and rickshaws, but don’t fleece people as many people are quite poor and need to make a living. Give small donations on the streets if you choose to, but try not to encourage begging and be aware of who you are giving your money to. If you do want to donate to a good cause, ask about our Kamzang Fund or other responsible organizations.

Tips for Staff
We recommend $250-300 per person to go into the tip pool for the staff, which can be given to Kim in Kathmandu in $US. We also pitch in to buy our incredible staff drinks on the last night, or any other night that you feel like treating them to a bottle of Kukure Rum or a few beers!

Tips in General
Tips are always appreciated but they don’t need to be extravagant. 100-300 NRP to carry bags to/from your room is fine, the women who clean your room will be happy with 200-300 NRP when you leave, and 300-500 NRP is great for your airport transfers. Round-up taxi fares, in general. A larger tip would be expected for a day trip in a private car, perhaps 500 NRP, and a tour guide might get 500-100 NRP. 10% is included in most restaurant and hotel bills in Nepal, and if it’s not included it’s still expected. You can round-up the restaurant bills as well.

Cash, Credit Cards & ATMs
ATMs are available all over Kathmandu, and give up to 25,000 NRP per transaction, in general. You can also change money at the hotel counter (a good rate usually) or just outside the hotel at any of the money changers. They’re quite competitive. You’ll want cash in NRP with you on the trek for local shopping, drinks, beers, snacks, beer, laundry and charging electronics. There are usually local crafts and textiles to buy along the way as well! Credit cards are accepted at hotels, most larger restaurants and cafes, and most of the larger gear, craft and pashmina shops in Kathmandu. 

Pampering Yourself & Shopping in Kathmandu
We’re happy to book your rooms before or after the trek at boutique and luxury hotels, resorts and spas in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley. We’re happy to help with advice on where to purchase the most authentic crafts, pashmina or other hand-made Nepali products in Kathmandu. We sell local handicrafts at our Cafe Caravan at Boudha, as well as delicious cakes, coffees, meals and snacks. 

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Prints & Paintings
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, and more recently the artist Tenzing Samdup also sells his Dolpo prints at the cafe. We also have an extensive selection of ‘caravan’ handicrafts, coffees, teas, t-shirts, ceramic mugs and Himalayan books for sale …

Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Journeys duffel bags, Kamzang Journeys t-shirts, Kamzang Journeys camp towels, Kamzang Journeys buffs, handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes and bags, handcrafted Himalayan textile pillow covers and more unique, handcrafted tribal silver and Himalayan textiles available from Kim here in Kathmandu. 
Kamzang Journeys Products

Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop

Great Stays
See our ‘Great Stays’ tab for our picks of some of the best heritage, boutique or interesting hotels, guest houses, and lodges in the Kathmandu Valley and elsewhere in Nepal.

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing & Tours
See our Kathmandu Tours tab for lots of idea of how to experience the real Nepal.

Kathmandu & Kathmandu Valley Information
Our ‘Insider’ list of things to do, places to go, what to visit, the most happening restaurants and the best hotels in Kathmandu and the beautiful Kathmandu Valley.
Happenings in Kathmandu

Gear List | Himalayan Cycling Trips

Kamzang Journeys Products
Duffel Bags, T-Shirts, Camp Towels, Buffs, Leather Passport Wallets, Totes & Bags, Himalayan Textile Pillow Covers & More!
Kamzang Journeys Products

Bicycle
Will you rent or bring your own? Many airlines allow a bicycle packed in a bike box for no extra charge. Rentals are from bicycle shops in Kathmandu, Leh or Paro, relatively good quality mountain bikes, and e-bikes now available in Kathmandu! Spare bike parts and tubes for your rental bikes (or personal bikes) can be ‘borrowed’ our purchased from shops in Kathmandu, Leh or Paro, paid for if used, returned if not used.

BIKE NOTE | You can bring a mountain bike or a gravel bike on most roads in the Himalaya, and use MTB, semi-fat, or gravel tires. There are advantages to all types of tires, and no bike will be perfect for all terrain. Many roads are paved, some are perfect and lined in yellow, others are older and badly paved, there is often road construction so the roads can suddenly turn muddy and bumpy, and we will sometimes cycle on unpaved roads and jeep tracks. We have back up jeeps for any section of road which isn’t good for cycling …

Note that e-Bikes are only available to rent on our Nepal cycling trips.

Bicycle Maintenance
You are responsible for knowing a bit about the maintenance of your bicycle, although we have Lhakpa with us as a cycle mechanic on our Nepal, Indian Himalaya & Tibet trips, and a cycle mechanic on our Bhutan trips. We generally have cyclists with us who are adept at fixing bike issues as well. If you don’t have any knowledge of bike repairs, we recommend having a quick session at your local bike shop to know how to repair punctures and learn a few basics …

Nepal Temperatures & Clothing
Kathmandu during the spring and autumn trekking seasons is usually quite warm (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirts) during the day, and gets chilly (light fleece or jacket) in the late afternoon and evenings. Nights can be cold enough for a sweater and/or jacket, or warm enough for t-shirts. Summer is hotter and wetter, and you’ll need a rain jacket and umbrella. The winter months (late Nov – March) are chilly in the mornings and evenings, cold enough that you might start the day in a down jacket, but often warming up enough to wear a t-shirt by mid-day. Nights get cold enough for a down jacket if you’re sitting outside, although many restaurants have heaters or fire pits. It never snows in Kathmandu. Keens, Chacos or other hiking sandals are great for wandering around Kathmandu, and for trekking in lower altitudes. Crocs are good to have for rooms, showers and at camp.

Cycling is always a mixed bag of temperatures. LAYERS are the key as hot can change quickly to freezing crossing the passes and snowfalls can happen at almost any time of year when at higher elevations. We often have some rain below 3000 meters in the spring and early autumn, and it can rain hard in the summer. Have a wide range of layer-able clothes for summer to winter temperatures. Keep a lightweight down jacket or synthetic jacket with you at all times, available inexpensively in Kathmandu. A lightweight rain poncho and umbrella for recommended in the spring and summer seasons. Be prepared! 

There are lots of real gear shops (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Sherpa Gear, OR) and many ‘fake’ and Nepali-made shops in Kathmandu, so if you don’t think you have the right gear starting the trip, it is easy to pick up gear once in Kathmandu. We have sleeping bags to rent, duffel bags, camp towels and buffs to purchase, and you’ll get a FREE Kamzang Journeys t-shirt for the trip!

Dress conservatively in Kathmandu and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are okay if they aren’t too short, short mini skirts aren’t recommended. Use your good judgment, and be an ambassador for western travelers! Please ask Kim or your guide if unsure about appropriate clothing, we’re always happy to advise.

Remember you’ll have a small duffel inside the jeep for changes of clothes, snacks, camera gear, charging cords etc. Be prepared!

Ladakh & Zanskar Temperatures & Clothing
Leh is usually warm (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirt weather) during the day, and gets chilly (light fleece or windproof top) in the afternoon. Nights can be cold enough for a light down jacket, or warm enough for t-shirts. It’s almost always dry, but doesn’t hurt to have an umbrella. We often sit outside in the restaurants in the evening.

Cycling is a mixed bag of temperatures. Daytime temperatures can be scorching, so a wide-brimmed hat or baseball cap is essential. LAYERS are the key as hot can change quickly to FREEZING crossing the passes. Have a wide range of layer-able trekking clothes for summer to winter temperatures. Be prepared! You’ll get a FREE Kamzang Journeys t-shirt for the trip!

Dress conservatively in Ladakh & Zanskar as a rule. Shorts are OK if they aren’t TOO short. Sleeveless Ts are also fine, but perhaps avoid tanktops on the trail and in Leh. Many of the younger generation in Leh wear modern Indian or Western-influenced clothes, and there are many young Indian tourists wearing just about everything, but remember that you haven’t signed up for a beach or surf vacation. Use your good judgment!

Remember you’ll have a small duffel inside the jeep for changes of clothes, snacks, camera gear, charging cords etc. Be prepared!

Bhutan Temperatures & Clothing
Bhutan in the Spring and Autumn is generally warm (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirt weather) during the day, and gets chilly (light fleece or windproof top) in the afternoon. Nights can be cold enough for a sweater or light jacket, or warm enough for t-shirts. Summer is hotter and wetter. The winter months (November – March) are chilly in the mornings, cold enough that you might start the day in a down jacket, but warm up to jeans and t-shirt weather by late morning. Nights get cold enough for a down jacket if you’re sitting outside. It is important to have an umbrella as it rains often in Bhutan!

Cycling is a mixed bag of temperatures. Daytime temperatures can be very hot and muggy in the lower altitudes (below 2000 meters), so a wide-brimmed hat or baseball cap and light clothes are essential. LAYERS are the key as hot can change quickly to FREEZING crossing the passes and snowfalls are common. Have a wide range of layer-able trekking clothes for summer to winter temperatures. Be prepared!

Dress conservatively in Bhutan as a rule. Cover up in the monasteries, no shorts or short skirts. Shorts are ok otherwise if they aren’t too short. Sleeveless Ts are also fine, but perhaps avoid tank tops in villages. Remember that you haven’t signed up for a beach or surf vacation. Use your good judgment!

Remember you’ll have a small duffel inside the jeep for changes of clothes, snacks, camera gear, charging cords etc. Be prepared!

Tibet Temperatures & Clothing
Temperatures in Tibet vary tremendously according to where you are. Lhasa and central Tibet can be very hot during the summer months and cold at night while western Tibet, as it’s higher in altitude, can be chilly and windy during the day while hot in the jeeps. A hat is important because of the strong sun at higher altitudes. Again, layers are important and a jacket at night important.

Cycling will be a mixed bag of temperatures, bring layers! Passes and higher altitude is always cold and windy, and mornings and evenings in the tent are also chilly. Nights are generally cold, so a warm down jacket and down sleeping bag a must, as well as down slippers, a hat and gloves for camping.  Bring a wide-brimmed hat or baseball cap to protect against the strong sun. You’ll get a FREE Kamzang Journeys t-shirt for the trip!

Remember you’ll have a small duffel inside the jeep for changes of clothes, snacks, camera gear, charging cords etc. Be prepared!

Duffel Bags & Sleeping Bags
We have Kamzang Journeys large orange duffel bags for sale. Please inquire early for India trips as we need to bring them from Kathmandu, and for Bhutan trips, you will have to be starting in Kathmandu to purchase them. We also have sleeping bags to rent for camping trips in Nepal or Tibet for $2.50 per day.

Packing & Storage
It’s easiest to pack and unpack from a duffel bag, especially when the temperature drops. We recommend investing in a strong duffel bag such as a North Face or one of ours. You can store unneeded gear at the hotels before the trip.

Shopping for Gear
For our Nepal and Tibet trips, you can get almost any sort of gear (not specifically for cycling, but name brand outdoor gear) in Kathmandu, most bike parts and you could even buy a very good bike from Kathmandu. For our Indian HImalaya trips, you can get some gear in Leh, such as sleeping bags (about 0F), light down jackets, and Chinese-made gear which is quite wearable, and there are great second-hand markets where you can find almost anything (except for footwear). Top up your gear in Leh if you need to, but best not to rely on purchasing too much there. Bring your cycling gear for Bhutan, the shopping isn’t as good there. In Tibet, you can get lots of outdoor gear in Lhasa, but it’s harder to find, so we recommend only topping up if needed in Lhasa.

On Your Bicycle & Yourself
You will want to carry certain things with you while riding, and your bike extras you can store in our back-up vehicle – we suggest a small duffel bag for this purpose, which you can pick up locally. In your day pack, bag or panniers we suggest having or wearing this gear. Note that we will always have a back-up vehicle with us, and will have water, snacks and our tool kits in the vehicle. We have a full bicycle tool kit, so you really just need the spare parts for your bike.

• Helmet
• Small Cycling Pack or Saddle Bag
• Pump
• Lock
• Bike Bell
• Cycling Tights, Shorts &/or Skort
• Cycling Shirts (Long & Short Sleeve)
• Windproof Jacket
• Cycling Thermals
• Windproof Cycling Gloves (Cold & Warm Weather)
• Bike Shoes & Socks (Cold & Warm Weather)
• Water Bottle(s)
• Small Bike Repair Kit (Extra Tube, Puncture Kit, Multi Tool, Lube, Tire Levers)
• LED Front & Back Lights
• Camera or Phone
• SPF Lip Balm & Sunscreen
• Polarized Sunglasses
• Snacks & Electrolytes

Gear & Spare Bike Parts (Recommended)

• Pedals & Saddle (Optional for Rentals)
• Panniers & Saddle Bag (Optional)
• Bike Tools (Multi Tool, Patch Kit, Bike Lube & Tire Levers)
• Spare Tubes & Tire(s)
• Spare Wheel Set
• Spare RD Hanger
• Spare Rear Derailleur
• Spare Brake Pads
• Spare Break & Derailleur Cables
• Spare Chain Links
• Spare Spokes
• Shock Pump
• Other Good Stuff (Duct Tape, Hose Clamps, Cable Ties, Handlebar Tape, Reusable Wipes)

Gear List
This is a guideline, not a bible, for the gear you will need on the trip. For most of our cycling trips, the temperatures vary from warm to cold, and for our winter trips will range from warm to freezing (potentially a bit of ice and snow), so you’ll need some various weights of clothing and shoes. Ask Kim before the trip if you have questions!

• Sleeping Bag (Inquire for Temperature)
• Cycling Tights, Shorts &/or Skort
• Cycling T-Shirts
• Cycling Long Sleeved Shirts
• Cycling Thermal Top
• Cycling Windproof Jacket
• Waterproof Jacket & Pants
• Cycling Gloves (Warm & Cold Weather)
• Cycling Socks
• Thermal Hat & Baseball Cap
• Sunglasses (2)
• Water Bottles
• Toiletries, SPF Sunscreen & SP Lip Balm
• Watch (or Phone Alarm)
• Batteries, Battery Chargers & USB Multi-Plug
• Headlamp 
• Laundry Detergent or Bio-degradable Soap
• Hand Sanitizer
• Books &/or Kindle
• Zip-Lock Bags
• Personal Medical Kit
• Rehydration Electrolytes
• Snacks!

Evening Lodge or Camping Clothes

• T-Shirts, Pants, Fleece &/or Thermals
• Down Jacket &/or Vest
• Swim Suit (Pokhara, Optional)
• Spare Shoes &/or Crocs 
• Socks
• Down Booties (Camping Trips)

Suggested Medical Supplies
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs etc. but please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety!

SUGGESTED MEDS | Dexamethasone, Nifedipine & Diamox (altitude), Azithromycin, Ciprofloxacin & Augmentin (antibiotics), blister bandages, Tegaderm &/or bandages, knee & ankle supports/braces (if required), ACE bandage for sprains & strains, cough drops.

Bring whatever pain meds you generally use (Ibuprofen, Paracetamol/Tylenol, Diclofenac), meds for diarrhea (Loperamide/Imodium) and nausea (Ondansetron), antihistamines (non-drowsy & Benadryl is good for a drowsy antihistamine that might help with sleep), as well as any medications that you take regularly or that your doctor prescribes. We recommend picking up a combination Salmeterol & Fluticasone inhaler locally, good for (from a doctor trekking friend) “high altitude cough due to reactive airways, which is kind of like temporary asthma. The ingredients in the inhaler relax the bronchial passages and calm inflammation in the airways.”Stay away from sleeping medications, drugs in the codeine-opiate-narcotic family and other drugs that suppress your breathing (not a good at altitude). And don’t forget electrolytes! Have some with you in your pack (as well as snacks) daily …

We’re happy to take excess medical supplies off your hands when you leave if you won’t need them. We use lots of the large amount we have with us to treat locals, our staff and our clients.

Comments on Gear
On our Nepal cycling trips, we stay in accommodation ranging from basic guest houses to boutique hotels, and sometimes camp. On our Indian Himalaya cycling trips, we camp all of the time except for in Leh. In Tibet, again it’s a mix similar to Nepal, and in Bhutan, we stay at all boutique hotels. For sightseeing, visiting monasteries and evenings, you’ll want a spare set of shoes and comfortable clothes. Mornings and evenings are always chilly in the Himalaya, while days can be scorchingly hot and dry, or hot and humid, sometimes rainy, sometimes foggy, even in the winter months.

Bring layers for cycling, with a range of cycling gear for hot and cold weather as this trip is very diverse in terms of temperature. Crocs for washing and the evenings are also very useful. Wear a pair of warm socks under them for colder evenings. Good, polarized sunglasses are essential; please bring an extra pair if you tend to lose them! Don’t forget a sun hat and/or baseball cap and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF …

Nights are chilly to cold, so a down jacket and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. We recommend a down sleeping bag of 0 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C) on camping treks, though not so extreme on lodge treks. Campsites near passes can get COLD. On (full) camping trips, our signature Kamzang Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness dining tent is a Tibetan style ‘yurt’, with rugs, blankets and camp chairs on the ground. It warms up in the evenings with everyone inside and hot tea but it is still important to have warm clothes for the evenings. Down booties are great when it’s cold, a down jacket is essential, and down or synthetic pants are also nice to have.

Crocs for washing and the evenings are also very useful. Wear a pair of warm socks under them for going in and out of the dining tent which is a ‘shoes off’ zone. Tevas take a long time to dry, not recommended.Good, polarized sunglasses are essential; please bring an extra pair if you tend to lose them. Don’t forget a sun hat &/or baseball cap and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF!

Tents
Everyone gets their own 3-person dome tent without a single supplement, and couples share the same tent. 

Hotels & Guest House Options
For our Great Nepal Bicycle Journey, we have a few options to stay at boutique and luxury hotels during the trip, which require single supplements and room supplements. These are listed under the Trip Cost section. We also offer single supplement options for hotels after leaving Kathmandu or Leh. 

Meals & Drinks
All meals are included during the trip except for a few lunches and dinners at the boutique and luxury lodges in cities on our Nepal trips, and dinners in the cities in our Lhasa trips. See the (B, L, D) icons on the detailed itinerary to see exactly what is included in your trip.

Drinking Water
We bring KATADYN (or similar) expedition-sized water filters along on the trek for fresh drinking water, ecologically the best way to get water in the Himalaya’s fragile trekking regions. Bring your own SteriPen or Sawyer squeeze filter for a back-up filtered water system during the day, if you have one. We bring ours as well, so this is optional. Please bring at least TWO Nalgene or other water bottles in addition to your bladder.

WATER NOTE | We do not provide boiled water for filling water bottles on our camping treks although there is endless hot water for herbal, black or green teas, hot chocolate, hot lemon as well as delicious Indian chai and Kashmiri tea.

Snacks
You will NEED snacks cycling at altitude, even if you’re not a big snacker. Bring your favorite energy bars, gels, chocolate bars, dried fruit and nuts, jerky or whatever else gives you quick energy.  Emergen-C and/or other electrolyte mixes are important in water bottles or before or after the cycling day; it is ESSENTIAL to bring electrolytes with you in your day packs in case you cramp up, get diarrhea or otherwise need them.

You might want to bring something to share in the dining tent. Any sort of cheese (especially from your hometown) is great as a treat on a cheese board before dinner, as is anything sweet and delicious!

Java & Tea
We’ll bring our Nuwa Estate organic freshly roasted dark beans and a French Press along to get ourselves going in the mornings! We’ll also have tea, milk, lemon and chocolate for the mornings that we’re not in nicer hotels …

Mustang is a center of the sky, the middle of the earth, the head of all rivers where horses grow swift.’
– Sienna Craig, ‘Horses Like Lightning’

Upper Mustang
Formerly the Kingdom of Lo and a part of the Western Tibetan Kingdom of Ngari, ‘forbidden’ Mustang has lured intrepid travelers to its remote realm for centuries, but only the most adventurous made it to this mountainous and inaccessible bastion of Tibetan Buddhism and its mythical walled city of Lo Manthang.

People have inhabited this harsh region for thousands of years, some of the early dwellers living or meditating in ancient caves, rich in Buddhist art, which pepper the bizarre rock formations. Mustang became part of the Yarlung Dynasty of central Tibet, later falling under the jurisdiction of the Malla Kingdom of Nepal (Jumla) and in the fifteenth century, the independent Kingdom of Lo was founded, ruling such other remote regions as Dolpo. It was only incorporated into the Kingdom of Nepal in 1951. Soon afterwards, renegade Khampa freedom fighters battling the Chinese used Mustang as a base of operations, and it was closed to all Westerners until 1992.

This mythical land north of the 8000-meter peaks Annapurna and Dhaulagiri still requires a special restricted area permit to enter, and numbers are limited, thus helping to preserve its unique heritage. There are 9 sacred kabums, or cave monasteries, in Mustang, and an estimated 10,000 caves. Ka = ‘teaching of Buddha’ & bum = ‘rimpoche’.

A Brief History Of Mustang
+ 7th century: Mustang was part of the Tibetan empire, and the mystic Milarepa spent a summer here in 651.

+ 11th century: Upper Mustang had followed the Bon religion, based on a cult of royal tombs and sacrifices. Upper Mustang was visited by masters from southwest Tibet. Lo was ruled by kings of western Tibet, and Buddhism was reestablished.

+ 13th -14th century: In the 13th century a Kashmiri scholar from Tibet, Sherap Rinchin, visited Mustang and translated 5 texts of the Tengyur. During the 13th & 14th centuries, Mustang was ruled by kings of Guntang in Tibet and protected by the fort in Muktinath. They had close ties with the Sakya sect of Buddhism in Tibet, which had the patronage of the Yuan dynasty in China. The fortresses may have been built to protect Mustang against the rulers of Jumla.

+ 14th century: There had been a practice of cremating 1/2 dozen men alive whenever a man died until the 14th century, which was put to an end along with the slaughter of animals. The Tibetan governor of Guntang’s son, Chokyongbum, reconquered the western Tibet region of Purang (1380s) and gained governorship of Purang Fort (Barang?), presiding over Lo & Dolpo.

+ 14th – 15th century: Chokyongbum’s son Ampel extended Lo’s rule to include Purang and western Tibet. Lo gained independence from Guntang and gained an important fortress at Khochoe Dzong, just above Lo Manthang.

+ 15th – early 17th century: Mustang went to war with Tibet in the 15th century. Mustang was called the Kingdom of Lo, and then dominated the salt trade along the Kali Gandaki River and throughout the Tibetan region . It was a wealthy and powerful region.

+ 17th century: Mustang was forced to pay levies (taxes) to the Kingdom of Jumla and came under their extended Kingdom.

+ 1795: Jumla was defeated by the Gorkhas and the Kingdom of Lo (Mustang) transferred its allegiances to Gorkha, which by then was the capital of a unified Nepal.

+ 1855: Lo supported Nepal against the Tibetans. The King of Nepal thus allowed the King of Mustang to keep his title of ‘Raja of Mustang’ although he had little political power.

+ Sadly the previous King of Mustang, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, passed away in Dec 2016. His son, Jigme-La, is the current King of Mustang. 

History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital. Legend has it that the palace in Lo Manthang was constructed after Ame Pal send a goddess to find an auspicious spot, and she landed at the site of the present palace. The summer palace at Tinggar was built later, and was used mostly by the earlier kings during the summer months. Later kings spent their summers in Lo Manthang and their winters in Kathmandu. Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gonpas (monasteries) and murals in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings. 

The Raja’s palace, home to the former King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (from an aristocratic Lhasa family, now living at Royal Mustang Resort), is the largest building inside the city walls. Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (abbot) were allowed to ride. All others had to walk through the gate to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. Former King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, was the last king to reside at the four-storied palace inside the city walls, in disrepair but presently being rebuilt. The king was an avid horseman and kept his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, Lo Gyalpo, the king of Mustang, plays a somewhat ceremonial role although they have always been well-loved and respected throughout Mustang. Jigme-La, the present king of Mustang, is the 27^th descendent of Ame Pal.

Within the walls of Lo Manthang is an interesting maze of village lanes to explore, cafes, hotels, shops, stupas and mani walls. The inhabitants of Lo Manthang are called Lo-pas (Lobas). There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry. There are even yeti (known in Mustangi as mehti) prints rumored to be found in the region.

Buddhist Monasteries of Lo Monthang
There are four major monasteries within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang. The 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang, constructed in 1387, is the oldest gonpa, with a striking 50-foot ‘Jampa’ (future) Buddha statue, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago. The 15^th c Thubchen Gompa boasts a Great Assembly Hall with pillars 30 feet high, and is the second oldest gonpa in Lo Manthang, with fantastic murals in the dukhang (assembly hall). The Chhoede Gonpa complex, where the present abbot (Kempo) resides, includes a large monastic school, a museum, and the older Choprang Gompa. 

Birdlife
Hill and rock pigeons, crag martins, rose finches, pied wagtails, rock buntings, black redstarts, impeyan pheasants, grandala, snowcock and white-capped river chats, Himalayan griffin, lammergeiers, golden eagles (and many more).

Wildlife
Snow leopards, black bear, marmot, lynx, black wolf (chango), Himalayan wooly hare, blue sheep, red fox, pikas (and more).

Sky Caves (Burial Caves)
There are three distinct cultural phases of the Annapurna Conservation Area: Chokhopani (3150–2400 years ago), Mebrak (2400–1850 years ago), and Samdzong (1750–1250 years ago). The ‘sky caves’ found in Upper Mustang relate to one of these three periods.

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“The cold and dry conditions of the Himalayan sites have resulted in extraordinary ancient DNA preservation. In some cases, more than 50 percent of the DNA recovered from prehistoric skeletal remains is endogenous, or of local origin. In the Upper Mustang region of Nepal, thousands of rock-cut tombs are scattered across towering Himalayan cliff faces. It’s only in the last few decades that archaeologists—led by expert climbers—have been able to explore these remote “sky caves.” They’ve discovered a wealth of artifacts, including intact silk fabric, bronze jewelry, and bamboo baskets still full of rice among skeletons of people laid to rest hundreds of years ago.

Scientists recently sequenced the whole genomes of eight individuals found in these ancient chambers, revealing the secrets of the first inhabitants of the Himalayas. It turns out their descendants still live in the region. The researchers published their findings yesterday in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. “The big question we had was, ‘Who were these people?’ We didn’t really have any idea where they came from,” Christina Warinner, a senior author of the new study and an anthropologist at the University of Oklahoma, told Mental Floss.

Thousands of human-made caves dot the Himalayan landscape. Since prehistory, these caves have been used as tombs, dwellings, and apartments. Image credit: Christina Warinner Though strategically located between the Indian subcontinent and the Tibetan plateau, the Himalayan high mountain valleys were among the last places on Earth to be colonized by humans—and it’s easy to see why. Little rain, meager vegetation, and low levels of oxygen make it difficult to live there. The first known settlers only arrived a little more than 3000 years ago. But where those first intrepid people arrived from has been a matter of debate.

Some archaeological similarities had suggested that the first Himalayan settlers came from the south. But by looking at the ancient DNA, Warinner and her colleagues found that the first inhabitants of the Himalayas came down from the north, from East Asian populations of the Tibetan plateau. Their genetic profile most closely resembles modern-day Sherpa and Tibetan populations.

“Each one of these cultures is associated with significant changes in artifacts as well as changes in mortuary practices, which archaeologists typically see as a reflection of religious beliefs. The earliest Chokhopani tombs date back to about 3150 years ago and contain artifacts like jewelry made from faience, bronze, and copper, as well as ceramic, wooden, and stone objects among the dead, who were buried in groups. The Mebrak tombs of the next cultural phase often contained a more elaborate set of grave goods, including the mummified heads of sheep and goats, and disarticulated horse remains. The dead were also placed on decorated wooden platforms.

A gruesome new death ritual—defleshing—was introduced during the Samdzong culture (1750–1250 years ago), according to recent excavations led by Mark Aldenderfer, of the University of California, Merced (who is also an author on the new study). Cut marks on the bones suggest that the bodies were stripped of their flesh before being laid out on wooden platforms—a practice that may have been adopted from Zoroastrians of West Asia and that may have in turn influenced the Tibetan “sky burials” of later periods. Perhaps this influence was made possible by the Samdzongs’ connection to the Silk Road, which the archaeologists recently discovered thanks to well-preserved cloth artifacts.

“If it was the same population through all these cultural phases, that’s pretty amazing, because other places around the world that experience that much cultural change are typically associated with a turnover in population or a conquest event,” Warinner said.
Local villagers assist with the identification of 1500-year-old artifacts recovered from prehistoric cliff tombs at the site of Samdzong, Nepal.

The study also marks the first five whole genomes to be published for ancient people from East Asia (excluding Siberia). “There’s been very little work done on whole ancient genomes anywhere outside of Europe,” Warinner said. That’s because the first labs to do this type of analysis were in Europe, where there also is a wealth of well-preserved ancient European human remains. Warinner is hopeful that with improvements in the study of ancient DNA, scientists can start to study samples from overlooked places, like archaeological sites closer to the equator, where preservation of human remains isn’t as stellar. “The field of ancient DNA has matured dramatically in the last five years,” Warinner said. “We’ve entered the golden age of paleogenomics, where we can actually do full genomic studies of ancient people.”
 – Ancient DNA Sequenced from “Sky Cave” Burials in Nepal, mentalfloss.com

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“Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo in northern Nepal, is home to one of the world’s great archaeological mysteries. In this dusty, wind-savaged place, hidden within the Himalayas and cleaved by the Kali Gandaki River, are approximately 10,000 human-built caves. In the mid-1990s, archaeologists from Nepal and the University of Cologne began exploring the stacked caves and found several dozen bodies, all at least 2,000 years old. Since then, groups have continued to investigate the remote Upper Mustang site, but no-one has discovered who built the caves.”

“From Tombs to Homes. Scientists divide cave use in Upper Mustang into three periods. As early as 1000 BC, the caves were used as burial chambers. During the 10th Century, the region is thought to have been frequently battled over, and consequently, placing safety over convenience, families moved into the caves, turning them into living quarters. By the 1400s, the caves functioned as meditation chambers, military lookouts or storage units as people moved into villages.”

“In 2010, a team of mountaineers and archaeologists uncovered 27 human remains in Samdzong’s two biggest caves. The relatively intact skeletons – dating from the 3rd to the 8th Centuries, before Buddhism came to Mustang – had cut marks on the bones. Scientists believe that this burial ritual may have been related to the Buddhist practice of sky burial: to this day, when a citizen of Mustang dies, the body is sliced into small pieces, bones included, to be swiftly snatched up by vultures.”
– The Ancient Mysteries of Mustang’s Caves, BBC

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“In the 1990s, a high Himalayan cave in Upper Mustang, Nepal was discovered to contain 42 ancient people, buried on wooden bunk beds. American archaeologist Dr. Mark Aldenderfer believes there must be more burial caves … (His) theory is the funerary caves were carved out by the earliest people to have settled in the Himalaya. If he can find their remains and extract their DNA, he’ll learn who these people were and what brought them to the toughest parts of the planet to live.

A series of burial caves are discovered above the riverbed, with human remains spilling forth from dangerously eroding caves … (They) recover bones from a total of 27 individuals: adult men, women, adolescents, even infants, along with their goats, cows and a horse. Wood inside the caves provides the clue that bunk beds must have housed the bones at one time.

Upon cleaning and taking painstakingly detailed observations of each bone, Eng discovers that 63 percent of the bones have cut marks on them, clear evidence of defleshing! Aldenderfer’s quest takes an unexpected turn toward the macabre as he begins to trace the mortuary practices of Himalayan peoples, including the distinct sky burial rituals of the people of Upper Mustang today, where they cut up the flesh and bones of their dead and offer them to birds of prey. Could this modern practice, which dates back to the eighth century, be somehow related to the early peoples found with cut marks in Mustang’s caves? Aldenderfer thinks so. Carbon dating reveals the cave people were from the 5th century. Their practice of defleshing bones was likely a precursor funerary ritual that eventually led to the development of what is known as sky burial by ethnically Tibetan peoples today.

Another cave tomb discovery, however, reveals to Aldenderfer that Mustang was home to a mosaic of cultures, all practicing different means of disposing of their dead. This cave has no bunk beds and there’s no evidence of cut marks on the skeletal remains. (He) discloses that the dead were put into pits with multiple layers of sticks and stones. By analyzing the ceramics inside the burial cave, Aldenderfer concludes that the people interred inside date to approximately 1000 BC. This culture, likely different from the defleshed peoples found a little further north, was one among many, Aldenderfer believes, that traveled along Upper Mustang’s Kali Gandaki River Valley trade route. Aldenderfer’s cave people and their differing mortuary practices prove that the Kali Gandaki was a major trade artery connecting migrating people, their goods and their evolving funeral rituals with the well-traveled and highly influential Silk Road, further to the north.”?
– Excerpts from National Geographic Special: Cave People of the Himalaya, produced by National Geographic Television & Liesl Clark, Sky Door Films

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“Till now, the most interesting archaeological finds in Upper Mustang were sky caves containing human remains 1,500 years old, and scriptures and textiles suggesting the region’s links to the ancient Silk Road. But recently, Fidel Devkota, an anthropologist has discovered 90 rock paintings made of red and yellow ochre that he says could rewrite the history of the people of this part of Nepal that juts into the Tibetan Plateau. The paintings of wild yaks, horses and other animals, with depictions of the crescent moon and human figures, were found on rock faces in the Kya and Ludak Valleys in the eastern part of Mustang.

“The paintings and inscriptions are different in style, execution, composition and placement, suggesting that they are from various historical periods,” says Devkota, who had been documenting the impact of climate change in Mustang for the past 10 years when he came across the rock art which are in such a remote location, even local herders didn’t know of them. At the Kya Valley site, the paintings were found on a cliff facing southeast towards Bhrikuti Himal, and although the Ludak rock art site is exposed it was only found three years ago.

Devkota collaborated with John Vincent Bellezza, an archaeologist and cultural historian specialising on Tibet, and the two have jointly published a paper, ‘Obscured for Centuries: The Lost Rock Art of Lo Mustang’, documenting the discovery. As carbon dating has not yet been done, Belleza compared the rock art and inscriptions, based on Devkota’s photographs, with the rock art in western Tibet, Sipti and Ladakh. He dates some of the paintings as far back as pre-7th century CE.

“The first phase of paintings is prehistoric but the later phases are clearly motivated by Buddhism and Yungdrung Bon religious practices,” writes Devkota in the paper. The rock art depicts hunting and other wild animal-human interaction, birth giving, anthropomorphic portraits, tiered shrines and other sacred symbols. Belleza writes that the rock art in Kya and Ludak focuses on the beliefs, values and activities of the painters, although pinpointing their specific traditions is difficult. It is also difficult to discern whether the artists were pastoralists or agriculturists or both.

Given that the Shar-ri region was visited by prominent masters of Tibetan Buddhism and adherents of the Bon Po, Devkota writes that more detailed examination of the rock art and other sites may lead to identification of important centres of the faiths here. He also notes that the pigments have faded and some of the relics have deteriorated, while the sites are vulnerable to rock slides and erosion, revealing an urgent need to protect the sites from rockfalls and the harsh climate of the plateau. Says Devkota: “Even if we cannot preserve it on site, we should at least have proper documentation for the future because if we lose it now, we may never fully understand what these works represent.”

Professor Purushottam Lochan Shrestha was on a field visit to Changu Hill overlooking Kathmandu with his students four years ago when a shopkeeper mentioned paintings in the nearby Kalika Gufa. Curious, Shrestha found the cave and came upon hitherto unknown art works from the Malla era. There were paintings of a helmeted soldier, another of Hanuman carrying a mountain and two others of King Pratap Malla kneeling.

To the south of Bhaktapur in Tathali, Shrestha later discovered rock edicts from the Malla period carved into three huge rock faces. The 15 inscriptions dating back 700 years mention that the rocks from here were used to build the Vatsala Temple in Bhaktapur, which came down in the 2015 earthquake. There are also paintings of elephants and horses. Since the findings, Shrestha has been on a one-man search, without any government help, for other cave and rock inscriptions that could throw more light into the early history of Kathmandu Valley.

“Rock paintings and inscriptions provide a rare window to our history: we need more research,” says Shrestha, who has documented the findings in a recent book, Guha, Guhalekh, Guhachitra ewam anya Sampada. “There are rock quarries with ancient paintings that are in danger of being lost forever.”

http://nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/prehistoric-rock-painting-in-mustang,4086
– Nepali Times Dec 2017

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

Kathmandu Valley Guided Sightseeing Day Tours
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Sightseeing Tour (Full Day) | Pashupatinath, Boudhanath & Swayambunath ($125)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Sightseeing Tour (Half Day) | Pashupatinath & Boudhanath ($75)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Car – No Guide (Morning or Evening) | Swayambunath ($35)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Walking Tour (Half Day) | Kathmandu Durbar Square ($50)
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Guided Tour (Half Day) | Patan Durbar Square ($65)
+ Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Sightseeing Tour (Full Day) | Bhaktapur & Changu Narayan ($135)
+ Kathmandu Valley Heritage + Craft Tour (Custom Tours)
+ Cycling Trip in Kathmandu Valley (Custom Trips)
+ Everest Express Sightseeing Flight ($225)
+ Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour (Custom Tours)

TOUR NOTE | Additional tour member + $30. Entrance fees not included.

Kathmandu Heritage Multi Day Tours & Hikes
Kathmandu Valley | Heritage Treks & Tours – Nepal

Kathmandu | Full Day World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Boudhanath, Pashupatinath & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guide, vehicles and guides as required. See Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning, and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating, when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gompas) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world renown artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisvatti, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings, when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox to with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokhari’s, or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

+Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person

Kathmandu | Half Day World Heritage Patan Durbar Square Sightseeing Tour
Visit the third of Kathmandu’s ancient capitals, known as ‘The City of Fine Arts’, best if you have an extra day in hand as Patan is also rich in cultural heritage, has many lovely roof-top cafes for lunch and world-class museums. Some of the highlights of Patan are its Durbar Square, the Krishna Temple within the palace complex of Patan (entirely made of stone, with 21 distinctive spires), and Hiranya Varna Mahavir, or the Golden Buddha Temple.

+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person

Kathmandu Valley | Full Day World Heritage Bhaktapur & Changu Narayan Sightseeing Tour
One more day in Kathmandu, with a sightseeing excursion by private vehicle to Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur which translates as ‘Place of Devotees’ and is also known as Bhadgaon, is an ancient Newar city approximately 15 kilometers east of the Kathmandu Valley. Bhaktapur is one of three ancient capitals of the Kathmandu valley, the capital of the Newar Kingdom and a city of artisans and craftspeople famous for its art and architecture: intricate carvings, sculptures, paintings, thankas, pottery, statues and temples, or pagodas. Bhaktapur has a well-preserved ‘durbar square’, or palace square, and has been named a World Heritage site by UNESCO because of its incredible temples, pagodas, wood carvings, stone carvings and metalwork. Bhaktapur is also famous for its yogurt, called curd in Asia, a taste which hasn’t been duplicated anywhere.

Spend the day exploring Bhaktapur and its rich cultural heritage, where a majority of enthnic Newaris live in traditional ways, and life seems to stand still. There are many great restaurants and cafes to rejuvenate, and it’s possibly the best spot in Kathmandu for purchasing a thanka after watching the technique, as well as shopping for endless other locally produced crafts. Bhaktapur is home to countless local festivals, so if you are lucky and arrive on a festival day, enjoy the timeless and colorful events unfold.

You’ll also visit at Changu Narayan, a few km from Bhaktapur and one of Kathmandu’s oldest Newari temple villages. Legend has it that Changu Narayan was given to the daughter, Champak, of a Kashmiri king of Nepal when she wedded the prince of Bhaktapur. The important Vishnu temple is one of the oldest temples in all of Nepal, and was damaged during the 2015 earthquakes.

+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person

Everest Sightseeing Mountain Flight
An hour long extravaganza of the world’s 8000 meter peaks. Airport Transfers not Included. (+$250 or Market Price)

Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour
Inquire for prices and options for a once in a lifetime helicopter trip flying right over Everest Base Camp, Kala Pattar, the Khumbu Glacier, plus incredible views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Pumori and more! Cost per helicopter, option to stop at Everest View Hotel for an ‘Everest breakfast’. (+$Inquire for Options)

Cycling Trip Kathmandu Valley
Many options for day trips, or extended trips, in the Kathmandu Valley. We can customize a cycling trip for you in partnership with one of our knowledgeable partners in Kathmandu. (+$Inquire for Options)

Shivapuri Heights Cottages
A wonderful get away 20 km north of Kathmandu, Shivapuri Heights Cottages are stylishly designed and personal cottages built around a ‘common house’, where you can breakfast overlooking the stunningly beautiful Kathmandu valley. Massages available on request. (+$Inquire for Options)

Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! for ideas to put together the perfect journey.

We recommend Kathmandu Valley heritage tours to Bhaktapur or Patan (the Kathmandu Valley’s other historic capital cities), mountain biking, river rafting, yoga retreats, get-aways to Gorkha, Bandipur, Panauti or Namo Buddha to visit traditional hill villages, temples, monasteries and fortresses or a tour of the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas!

Everest sightseeing flight or an epic helicopter tour over Everest Base Camp, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa in Pokhara or Himalayan Front in Sarangkot, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining over Phewa Lake, a spa + wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing, luxury wildlife excursion to Chitwan National Park staying at Tharu Lodge or Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, a chic wildlife safari in Bardia National Park at Tiger Tops, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or 5-star treatment in historic Dwarika’s Heritage Hotel in Kathmandu.

Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these wonderful excursions for you!

Everest Helicopter Tour Kwondge | Dinner Sunset & Sunrise over Everest – Yeti Mountain Home
An epic private helicopter tour for an extra day in the spectacular Khumbu region. Sunset dinner and sunrise breakfast overlooking some of the best Himalayan views on the planet! Board your private helicopter from Namche for the quick flight to Kwongde YMH Lodge, and enjoy lunch overlooking this vast panorama of peaks. Views include some of the highest peaks on the planet, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Gyajung Khang (the highest peak under 8000m), and the majestic Ama Dambam. From the YMH Lodge, you can look down on Kwonde Lake, generally hidden, and up the awe-inspiring Khumbu valley. The Kwongde YMH (Yeti Mountain Home) is a luxury lodge, one of the world’s highest hotels in one of the Himalaya’s most dramatic locations. Your epic helicopter tour finishes back in Namche Bazaar, but you have the option to charter the helicopter back to Lukla or Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter – Namche to Namche ($1800)
+ Max 4 Passengers
+ Price Per Person Yeti Mountain Home – Breakfast + Dinner ($175)
+ Single Supplement ($75)

Everest Mountain Helicopter Sightseeing Tour | Namche to Namche | Lukla, Everest Base Camp, Cho La Pass (Gokyo Valley), Renjo La Pass (Thame Valley) & Namche
A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region’s spectacular peaks, glaciers, and Himalayan passes! Your private helicopter picks you up in Namche Bazaar, from where you will fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp, as well as the incredible Everest icefall. You will have a chance to stop on Kala Pattar for photos of this spectacular setting. Back in your helicopter, your flight path takes you over Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass, and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake, with another touch down to splash some sacred lake on yourself before crossing the Renjo La pass to the traditional Thame valley, the old trade route to Tibet. Your epic helicopter tour finishes back in Namche Bazaar, but you have the option to charter the helicopter back to Lukla or Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter ($2750) – Namche to Namche
+ Max 4 Passengers

Everest Mountain Epic Sightseeing Tour | Kathmandu to Kathmandu | Lukla, Everest Base Camp, Cho La Pass (Gokyo Valley) & Namche
The full helicopter deal, all the way from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp, and much more! A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region’s spectacular peaks, glaciers, and Himalayan passes! Your private helicopter picks you up at Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu, from where you will fly up to the fabled Tenzin Norgay airport in Lukla. After a cup of tea in Lukla, you will reboard your helicopter and fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp and the sublime Everest icefall. You will have the unique chance to stop at Everest Base camp for photos of this spectacular setting.

Back in the helicopters, your flight path takes you over beautiful Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass, and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake and down the Gokyo Valley. Your epic helicopter continues by flying back over Namche Bazaar, and back through Nepal’s lush middle hills to Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter ($5000) – Kathmandu to Kathmandu
+ Max 4 Passengers

BOUTIQUE & LUXURY HOTELS | KATHMANDU VALLEY
Kathmandu Guest House
Kathmandu Guest House
The Kathmandu Guest House is one of Kathmandu’s first hotels, originally a Rana Palace. Located in the heart of Thamel, the Kathmandu Guest House is a beautiful, lively hotel with a large garden and lovely outdoor cafes, centrally located in Thamel with a wide range of restaurants, cafes, yoga and shopping surrounding it. KGH offers a wide selection of rooms, including their wonderful deluxe rooms.

“Travelers know that the frenetic pace of a crowded city like Kathmandu needs an escape. The Kathmandu Guest House, a converted Rana dynasty mansion with fragrant gardens and airy corridors, has provided the peaceful refuge of choice since 1967. Since the days of being the first and only hotel in Thamel, the packed tourist district of Kathmandu, it’s become something of an institution. It’s close to everywhere and its gate is the meeting point that nobody can mistake. As a guidebook put it, “Kathmandu Guest House acts as a magnet for mountaineers, pop stars, actors and eccentric characters.” Even the Beatles stayed here in 1968. Whether you’re returning from the mountains or arriving from the airport, come and relax at the courtyard restaurant, order a cup of fine Italian coffee or a chilled Gorkha Beer, and escape for a moment in the historic surroundings of Kathmandu’s most loved guesthouse.”

Kathmandu Guest House Timeline 
KGH History

Dwarika’s
Dwarika’s Hotel
Dwarika’s, Kathmandu’s premier hotel built and decorated with traditional Kathmandu valley architecture, is an oasis of calm located near the airport, where you can relax by the pool, visit the award-winning spa, enjoy the serene, historic surroundings and dine at one of their world-class restaurants. 

“Dwarika’s Hotel was registered in 1977, with the idea of reviving the architectural splendour of the valley. All the terracotta work was made in the valley, using local clay and skills. The couple also incorporated elements of Nepal’s diverse cultural heritage, including those from beyond the valley, when designing the rooms. The furniture was crafted by families of traditional carpenters, and the linen, textiles and embroideries were hand woven and used Nepali patterns. In all purposes, Dwarika Das Shrestha took some of the finest elements of Nepali crafts, and presented them in a way that had not been done before. In explaining his vision, he once stated: “My project is to recreate a 15th-17th century environment where tourist and Nepali alike would have a sensation of the original. The hotel as a commercial enterprise is merely a vehicle to finance and carry my dream forward.”

History of Newari Culture in Kathmandu. Inspiration for the Heritage Architecture of Dwarika’s
Newari History in Kathmandu

History of Dwarika’s
Dwarika’s History

Dwarika’s Resort Dhulikhel
Dwarika’s Resort
A top-notch resort, with a wonderful spa, and wellness, and yoga retreats, on the Kathmandu Valley rim. “With the belief in the need for maintaining harmony between the body, mind, spirit and the planet for a peaceful, healthy and balanced life; the Dwarika’s Resort is built on the philosophy of respecting nature and self. The resort takes its inspiration from ancient Hindu Vedic scriptures (Vedas), Buddhist medicine and traditional Himalayan knowledge. The Himalayan belt has been home to holistic healing and wellbeing for more than three thousand years. The region’s approach to wellbeing, its serene natural beauty and rare medicinal herbs has attracted great sages through time. The Hindu Vedic scriptures describe Ayurveda, the science of life, as a comprehensive approach to wellbeing that encompasses the study of biology, spirituality, psychology, astronomy, nutrition and beauty. Originating from the same roots the Buddhist approaches to wellbeing also follows similar path and views health as harmony between the mind, body, spirit and one’s environment.

The resort has been designed based on the knowledge of these ancient understanding about holistic wellbeing with all the spaces being consecrated and brought to life. The lifestyle spaces within the resort are designed to attract positive energy and keep negative energy at bay. When you go around the resort you can find details we have placed in various spaces to ensure the energy within the resort is as positive as possible. For example, the resort is surrounded by Cactus (Ketuki), which is believed to cleanse the space around it of all the negative energy and attract positive energy instead. Hence, adding to the calm and nurturing environment offered within the resort. The resort also offers various activities within these spaces to enhance and add value to our guests’ experience.”

Yak & Yeti
Yak & Yeti
Yak & Yeti is one of Kathmandu’s historic 5-star hotels, steeped in history, with a lovely pool and garden, located just off Durbar Marg, a tree-lined, upscale road of shops and hotels. ” Yak & Yeti opened in 1977 as a 120 room, 5-star hotel – the first of its kind in Nepal. A new wing of an additional 150 rooms was built in harmony with the architectural features of the old palace, Lal Durbar, bringing the room total to 270. The whole hotel is a sumptuous array of beautiful artifacts, art, and traditionally crafted fixtures. Attention to detail has been meticulously considered throughout, giving the feeling you aren’t just in a hotel as much as an art gallery or museum. Over the years the hotel has been upgraded and extended and now boasts a shopping arcade, a swimming pool, two tennis courts and a state-of-the-art fitness center and luxury spa.”

Hyatt Regency
Hyatt Regency
The Hyatt is a stylish, 5-star hotel located near Boudhanath, with a large pool, a great buffet breakfast, a gym and a mix of Buddhist and Hindu decor in the lobby and rooms. “Hyatt Regency Kathmandu is a five-star luxury hotel and resort in Kathmandu, set on 37 acres of landscaped grounds and created in the traditional Newari style of Nepalese architecture. This beautiful hotel and resort is located on the road to the Boudhanath Stupa: the most holy of all Tibetan Buddhist shrines outside of Tibet and a UNESCO World Heritage Site located within a five-minute walk from the hotel. The hotel is just 4km (2.4m) from the Tribhuvan International Airport and 6 km (3.7m) from the city center of Kathmandu.”

Hotel Tibet
Hotel Tibet
“Since 1998, Hotel Tibet has set the standard for showcasing the warmth of Tibetan hospitality. Newly renovated post-COVID, we have worked towards merging modern elements with traditional Tibetan aesthetic to provide you with the utmost convenience and comfort and to make your stay with us a memorable experience. We have newly-renovated rooms, divided into deluxe, club, and suite categories that combine contemporary and traditional Tibetan designs. Our rooms are especially designed with your comfort in mind, featuring plush bedding, modern furnishings, and elegant decor.”

Dusit Princess
Dusit Princess
Kathmandu’s BEST rooftop bar, restaurant and pool. Brother of the owner of Hotel Tibet, which shares the property. “Make Dusit Princess Kathmandu your base for exploring Nepal’s vibrant capital. Comfort, value and convenience will define your stay, with warm Thai and Nepalese hospitality woven into every moment. Conveniently located in upmarket Lazimpat, the hotel has international restaurants and Narayanhiti Palace Museum on its doorstep.”

Marriott
Marriott
The Marriot was completed in 2020, located just near Nag Pokhari, with Kathmandu’s best buffet! “Retreat to Kathmandu Marriott Hotel, a 214-room contemporary hotel in the capital city of Kathmandu. Settle into spacious, well-appointed rooms and suites, many with views of the Himalayan range. Dine in our hotel restaurants, featuring International cuisine at Thamel Kitchen and Asian cuisine at Edamame. Relax at Raksi Music Bar with delicious food and beverages overlooking our waterfall terrace. Get pampered in our full-service hotel spa and salon, take a dip in our outdoor pool or work out in our 24-hour fitness center.”

Sheraton Hotel
Sheraton Hotel
One of Kathmandu’s great rooftop bars and pools! “Surrounded by the Himalayas, The Sheraton Kathmandu Hotel is conveniently located along the city’s main road, Kantipath. Once the Royal Palace for the kings of Nepal, The Narayanhiti Palace Museum is nearby as are embassies, banks and corporate offices. Tribhuvan International Airport is forty minutes away. 

Kathmandu’s most popular tourist area, Thamel is located adjacent to the hotel and is filled with restaurants, bars, cafés and shops. In addition to traditional woolen items, pashmina shawls and scarves, as well as mountaineering equipment, you can savor some delightful Nepalese cuisine, including dumplings called momos, dal, and kwati, a delicious Newari curry soup made with a variety of beans. 

This 20,000 SM GFA, 218-key Sheraton Hotel is located on a 6,647 SM site in the center of Kathmandu. The hotel includes food and beverage, a 900 SM banquet hall, meeting rooms, spa and gymnasium facilities and back-of-house areas.”

The Terraces
The Terraces
“The Terraces Resort and Spa is a luxury resort in Nepal, offering stunning views of the Kathmandu Valley and majestic Himalayas located near the border of Bhaktapur with easy access from Lalitpur. We provide the perfect environment to unwind, reconnect with nature and celebrate life’s special moments. Our friendly and professional staff is dedicated to catering to your every need, guiding you to discover the best of Nepal’s culture and nature through bespoke activities and tours. Immerse yourself in the historical sites of Bhaktapur or venture into the scenic landscapes of Lakuri Bhanjyang, creating unforgettable experiences that embrace the essence of Nepal. The Terraces is not just a luxury resort in Kathmandu – it is a destination where you can savor life to the fullest.

The resort, located just 16km from Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport, fuses international sensibilities with the best of what Nepal has to offer: Stunning mountain views, fresh air, wide open spaces and organic food. Each spacious room or suite comes with a terrace balcony. The only barrier between you and the beautiful world outside is floor-to-ceiling windows.”

BOUTIQUE HOTELS
There are many other boutique and character-filled hotels and guesthouses around the Kathmandu Valley. Just a few that we like listed, but this is not AT ALL an extensive list. 

KATHMANDU | THREE CAPITALS
Potala Guesthouse – Thamel
Hotel Roadhouse – Thamel
Kantipur Temple House – Thamel
Nepali Ghar – Thamel
Aloft by Marriot – Thamel
Hotel Mulberry – Thamel (Pool)
1905 Suites – Nag Pokhari
Hotel Manaslu – Lazimpat
Hotel Shambala – Bainsbari – Maharajganj (Pool)
Babar Mahal Vilas – Babar Mahal
Hotel Padma – Boudhanath
Rokpa Guest House – Boudhanath
Hotel Shambaling – Boudhanath
Hotel Tibet International – Boudhanath
Hotel Lotus Gems – Boudhanath (Pool)
Cozy Nepal – Patan
Pahan Chhen – Patan
Traditional Stay Patan – Patan
The Inn Patan – Patan
Traditional Homes | Swota – Patan
Peacock Guest House – Bhaktapur
Hotel Heritage – Bhaktapur

KATHMANDU VALLEY & AROUND
The Fort Resort – Nagarkot
Hotel Mystic Mountain – Nagarkot
Gaia Holiday Home – Dhulikhel
Gokarna Forest Resort – Gokarna
Shivapuri Heights Cottages – Budhanilkanta, Shivapuri
The Old Inn – Bandipur
The Famous Farm – Nuwakot
Gorkha Gaun Resort – Gorkha
Terraces Resort – Lhakuri Bhanjyang Lamatar
Balthali Village Resort – Panauti
Park Village Resort – Budhanilkhanta (Pool)

POKHARA & AROUND
Begnas Lake Resort – Begnas Lake (Pool)
Hotel Karuna – Pokhara
Temple Tree Hotel & Spa – Pokhara (Pool)
Lakeview Resort – Pokhara
Hotel Barahi – Pokhara (Pool)
Summit River Lodge – Kurintar (Kathmandu – Pokhara Highway)
Ghale Gaun Homestay – Ghale Gaun (Near Besi Sahar)

FARMHOUSES & HOMESTAYS
Namo Buddha Resort – Namo Buddha
Herb Nepal – Bhaktapur
Nagarkot Farmhouse – Nagarkot
Srijana Farms – Tansen, Palpa
The Bosan Farmhouse – Bosan Danda
Almost Heaven Farm – Ilam
Barpeepal Bisauni Homestay – Ilam

KATHMANDU POOLS
Hyatt Regency – Boudhanath
Dwarika’s Hotel – Near Airport
Park Village Resort – Budhanilkhanta
Hotel Shanker – Lazimpat
Hotel Shambala – Bainsbari – Maharajganj
Marriott – Nag Pokhari
Yak & Yeti – Durbar Marg
Hotel Mulberry – Thamel

KIM BANNISTER PHOTOGRAPHY | HIMALAYAN TREKS, CYCLE TRIPS & TRAVELS
Kim Bannister Photography

CYCLE THE HIMALAYA PHOTOS
Guided Cycling Trips

KAMZANG JOURNEYS | ALL ABOUT US IN PHOTOS
Explore Kamzang Journeys

KAMZANG JOURNEYS | YELLOW TENT PHOTOS
The Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness

HIMALAYAN WILDLIFE, BIRDS & FLOWERS PHOTOS
Himalayan Wildlife, Birds & Plants

HIMALAYAN DESIGN & CULTURAL PHOTOS
Himalayan Design & Cultural Photos

KAMZANG JOURNEYS GROUP PHOTOS
Kamzang Journeys Groups

KAMZANG JOURNEYS STAFF PHOTOS
Kamzang Journeys Staff

THE KAMZANG FUND & KAMZANG KIDS PHOTOS
The Kamzang Fund

NEPAL JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Nepal Journey

INDIA JOURNEY PHOTOS
India Journeys

TIBET JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Tibet Journeys

BHUTAN JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Bhutan Journeys

MYANMAR (BURMA) JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Myanmar (Burma) Photos

MONGOLIA JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Mongolia Journeys

SOUTHEAST ASIA PHOTOS
South East Asia Photos