The Great Nepal Middle Hills Himalayan Bicycle (MTB) Journey
Nepal Himalaya Cycling Trips

The Great Nepal Middle Hills & Himalayan Cycling (MTB) Journey – Nepal Himalayan Bicycle Trip
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House | Bike Rental & Assembly 
Welcome to Nepal! You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it.
Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks …

Those who need to rent bikes will go to Himalayan Single Track just nearby in Thamel (right in back of KGH) to get fitted for rental bikes, and then take the bikes out on a short spin around the back streets of Kathmandu to check them out. You’ll have the rest of the afternoon to do some sightseeing in Kathmandu on foot or by bike. (B)

Day 2 – Kathmandu | Day Bike Ride 
Morning meeting at 9 AM in the back garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to collect passports, insurance information, and photos, and go over some of our bike details and logistics. If you’re ready to get on your bike and explore the Kathmandu valley, we have many excursions available. 

The day is free to explore Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley, shop, wander Thamel’s interesting streets, visit the spa, have a massage, or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Extra Day – Bike Namo Buddha Monastery  
A beautiful middle hills cycling trip leaving Kathmandu, with plenty of hills once we leave the bustling Central Asian city. We love cycling the Kathmandu Valley and valleyy rim roads, trails and jeep tracks, and have explored this incredibly scenic and diverse region for over 20 years. Our first cycling day features an incredibly scenic ride to the Buddhist monastery of Namo Buddha on the eastern valley rim. 
Distance: 43km

Day 3 – Bike Changu Narayan & Nagarkot | Mountain Resort 1950m  (28.5km)
Our Great Nepal Bicycle Journeys begins at the Kathmandu Guest House, from where we cycle some interesting back roads to Mulpani past Boudhanath, and northwest towards the hill village of Nagarkot, one of the valley’s most beautiful rides. We cycle past terraced rice paddies, on dirt trails through lush wooded hillsides, and bike past many traditional and historic villages en route to Nagarkot. We’ll cycle via Changu Narayan, an ancient Hindu Vishnu temple complex, one of the oldest in Nepal. “A Kashmiri king is said to have given his daughter, Champak, in marriage to the prince of Bhaktapur.”

“The Legend of Changu Narayan | In ancient times a gwala or cow herder, bought a cow from a Brahmin named Sudarshan. The cow was known for producing large quantities of milk and t cow herder used to take the cow to Changu for grazing. At that time Changu was a forest of Champak trees. While grazing, the cow always went to the shade of a particular tree and a boy used to come there and drink the cow’s milk. In the evening, when the cow herder took the cow home and started milking her, he got only a very small amount of milk. This continued for several days. He grew very sad, so he called on the Brahmin saying the cow was not giving enough milk. After observing this, Sudarshan agreed with the cow herder. The next day they observed the cow’s daytime activity while she was grazing in the forest.

Brahmin and cow herder both hid behind the tree. To their surprise, a small black boy came out of the tree and started drinking the cow’s milk. The two men were furious because they thought the boy must be the devil and tree must be its home. So the Brahmin cut down the champak tree. When he was cutting it down, fresh human blood came out of the tree. Both Brahmin and cow herder got worried, believing they had committed a great crime and began to cry. Lord Vishnu emerged from the tree and told the Brahmin and Cowherd it was not their fault. Vishnu told the story of how he had committed a heinous crime by unwittingly killing Sudarshan’s father while hunting in the forest. After that, cursed for the crime, he wandered the earth on his mount, ‘Garuda’, eventually descending on the hill at Changu. There he lived in anonymity, surviving on milk stolen from a cow. When the Brahmin cut down the tree, Vishnu was beheaded, which freed Lord Vishnu from his sins. After hearing these words from Vishnu, the Brahmin and the cow herder resolved to worship the place and established a small temple in the name of Lord Vishnu. Ever since the site has been sacred. Even today, we find Sudarshan’s descendants as priests of the temple and the cow herder’s descendants as ghutiyars (conservators).” – Wikipedia. 

After looking around the complex and having a cup of tea, we take a paved, lovely, nicely graded country road all the way up to Nagarkot. On top of a Kathmandu Valley ridge, Nagarkot was an ancient Kathmandu valley fortress constructed to keep watch of the other small kingdoms around the valley. Later, it became the royal family’s summer retreat. We spend our first night of the Nepal bicycle trip at the Sherpa-run Mountain Resort, where we’ll hopefully have some great Himalayan views for sunset and sunrise. The panorama includes the Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Jugal, Rolwaling, Everest and Numbur ranges, with views down to the Kathmandu valley and into Shivapuri National Park. (B, L, D)
Distance 28.5km, Elevation Gain 976m, Elevation Loss 378m

Day 4 – Bike Chisopani (Shivapuri National Park) | Hotel Everest View 2150m (19.65km)  
From Kathmandu | Leaving Kathmandu, we cycle the back roads to Mahankaal, the Sundarijal check post. Entering the national park, we cycle up the road on the right, heading up to Mulkharka (and another check post) where we’ll stop for a cup of chai. Continuing to cycle on a nice, gradual dirt jeep track, we eventually reach Jhule Dhanda on the ridge, the junction to Nagarkot or Chisopani on the border of Shivapuri National Park and Helambu. 
Distance: 36.5km

From Nagarkot | Leaving hilltop Nagarkot behind (but keeping our spectacular snow-capped Himalayan views all day), we cycle south to Buddha Mandir at Jarsing Pauwa, and then up to Lapsi phedi. Continuing to cycle on a nice, gradually ascending dirt jeep track, we eventually reach Jhule Dhanda on the ridge, the junction to Nagarkot or Chisopani inside Shivapuri National Park.

From here, we leave behind the views back to the Kathmandu valley and look north towards the beautiful Helambu valley, home of the Hyolmo Tibetan ethnic group. The cycling becomes a bit chilly, and possibly a little icy as we bike in the shaded wood, but we have incredible Himalayan views throughout the rest of the ride, and reach 2225 meters on the highest points of the undulating ride. We reach a perfectly located dhaba selling boiled eggs and dry chana masala, a lovely stop at the Hibung intersection. The teashop owner showed us a white rock marker waaaay up the hill at Kutumsang, tomorrow’s destination. We have a quick and stunningly beautiful ride to Pratiki Resort, where we stayed on our recce trip, but as we have time today and a challenging day tomorrow, we continue to cycle for 4 km on a flat dirt jeep track to Chisopani, with the iconic, tilted earthquake lodge, and just below the village, through a grove of evergreens, Hotel Everest View. There are fabulous sunset views from above the lodge, a great way to finish off an all-around great Himalayan cycling day! 

“Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park was established in 2002, located in Nepal’s middle hills on the northern fringe of the Kathmandu Valley. The park is named after Shivapuri Peak (2732m) and is spread through the districts of Kathmandu, Nuwakot, Sindhupalchowk and Dhading. Himalayan subtropical broadleaf forests in the subtropical zone, with chir pine stands on southern dry ridges and clusters of alder, wild Himalayan cherry, and oak along the streams, and broadleaf evergreen species of oak and laurel families mix with rhododendron on the northern slopes.”

The wildlife in the part includes “Indian leopard, jungle cat, large Indian civet, golden jackal, Himalayan black bear, yellow-throated marten, small Indian mongoose, Himalayan goral, Indian muntjac, wild boar, rhesus monkey, Hanuman langur, Chinese pangolin, Indian crested porcupine, Royle’s pika, Indian hare, orange-bellied Himalayan squirrel, fawn-colored mouse, Hodgsons’s brown-toothed shrew and black rat. Clouded leopard, leopard cat, masked palm civet, crab-eating mongoose, Indian pangolin, rhesus macaque and yellow-throated marten, were camera trapped. In the western part of the park, herpetologists encountered Monocled cobra, Himalayan keelback, olive Oriental slender snake, yellow-bellied worm-eating snake, variegated mountain lizard, Oriental garden lizard, many-keeled grass skink, Sikkim skink, black-spined toad, long-legged cricket frog and horned frog. Ornithologists recorded 318 species of birds including Eurasian eagle-owl, slender-billed scimitar-babbler, white-gorgeted flycatcher, barred cuckoo-dove and golden-throated barbet.” – Wikipedia (B, L, D)
Distance 19.65km, Elevation Gain 715m Elevation Loss 603m

Day 5 – Bike Nuwakot | The Famous Farm 1010m (41.9km)  
An incredibly beautiful Himalayan cycling day, leaving Kutumsang (or Gule Bhanjyang) during the crisp, clear morning light and descending on a bumpy jeep road (the jeep might go around on another road) over some ice and snow, with Himalayan views the entire descent. On our recce trip, we took a different route from our jeep and met it at the intersection (volleyball court) that we reach leaving Gule Bhanjyang. The next village we reach on our dirt-road descent is Chupare (which translates as no water village), a Tamang village speaking some variation of the Yolmo language as well.

On our recce trip, we met a saffron-clad yogi on the road, heading to what turned out to be a Tamang festival celebrated throughout that region. We gave Yogi Ram a ride from the tea stop, and then had an easy river crossing. from where the road becomes better, mostly paved with a few interspersed dirt and unpaved sections. We bike past textured green potato fields in the very beautiful Nuwakot valley, cycling just above the Tadi Khola (river). We pass banana trees, clusters of traditional villages, and colorful festivals en route, with lots of women wearing beautiful red saris on special days (which are many in Nepal). We bike past Satbise (the seventh stop along the trade route from Nuwakot to Helambu, and then on to Tibet) as we continue our incredibly scenic ride and it generally remains quite warm for the rest of the day.

We reach the village of Dukure, turn right at the temple and ride up the last steep 4-5 km of dirt road. It’s quite steep, rocky and challenging, so feel free to ditch the bike and take the jeep for this last section! We arrive at the wonderful, heritage (renovated) The Famous Farm for a fabulous sunset, with beers and dinner later, around a wood fire.

Nearby is Nuwakot Palace, constructed by Prithvi Narayan Shah, Nepal’s first king, in the 18th century. The palace has been in the long process of renovations after being almost completely destroyed in the 2015 earthquakes, and is a UNESCO tentative historical site. “The current main palace was built after Prithivi Narayan Shah conquered Nuwakot in 1745. After the victory of Nuwakot, he relocated the capital from Gorkha to Nuwakot considering it to an appropriate location for the continuation of unification campaign. The palace has seven stories and thus is also called ‘Sat-talle-durbar’ (‘seven storied palace’) by locals. The ground floor was built to keep courtiers and guards. The main meeting room (baitakh), prayer room and living room (shrinagar kakshya) is located on the first floor, the room for the king and queen on the second floor, a prayer room on the third floor, and the armies and guards stayed on the fourth floor. There was a prison on the fifth and sixth floor, where the King of Tanahu, Tri Bikaram Sen, and the King of Kirtipur, Bal Narsingh, were imprisoned. The seventh floor was used as a burja.

The palace imitates the architecture style of Kathmandu, and craftsmen from Lalitpur were used to construct the palace. The roof uses glazed tile, the main door faces towards east, and the palace is built in the form of fortress with 6′ thick walls. Carved windows (aankhi jhyal) are built into various floors. On south-east side of the main palace lies the Ranga Mahal (theatre), constructed in 1726 as the annex of the main palace. The kings of Kathmandu valley also used it for entertainment when they arrived Nuwakot. On eastern side of the main palace lies a guard house (Garad Ghar) where armed force and ammunitions were stationed. On the north-east side is the house of King Rana Bahadur Shah, built in 1795, destroyed in 1957, and reconstructed during the rein of King Mahendra. Lampati, which used to be the palace of Patan’s king, is located adjacent to the Bhairavi Temple. It has two floors with glazed tile in the roof, and currently used as a museum. Around the palace are the Bhairabi Temple (200m south of the main palace), the Narayan and Bishnu Temples (located on the eastern side of the main palace near the Garad Ghar, constructed during the Malla period of Malla. An inscription of Ripu Malla, dating back to 1498, was found at the temple), the Taleju Bhawani Temple (located about 150 meters from the main palace over a small hill, also constructed by the Mallas as Taleju is regarded as the ancestral deity of Mallas. The temple is five storied and the construction date is unknown although it’s believed that it may have been built around 1400s), and the Buddha Stupa (located on the northern side, the original construction date unknown but according to the inscription on the stupa, it was renovated by Prithivi Narayan Shah in 1773).” – Wikipedia (B, L)
Distance 49.1km, Elevation Gain 1,067m, Elevation Loss 2,553m

Extra Day – Nuwakot | The Famous Farm | Nuwakot Cycling Loop (31.5km)  
Lhakpa and I spent an extra day in beautiful Nuwakot during our recce trip, and Farmous Farm manager Dambar suggested a lovely loop ride. Below Nuwakot Durbar, we cycled counterclockwise along a high ridge, first along a large road under construction (2021). We stopped for tea at Chokate, then the road became more paved, with beautiful views down Nuwakot valley. We dropped down a great switchbacking paved road to Trisuli for lunch, cycled along the highway, and then back up the hill to The Famous Farm.
Distance 31.5km

Day 6 – Bike Trisuli Bazaar, Samari Bhanjyhang & Lapang (Dhading) 565m | Local Guest House (48.9km)  
Another misty middle hills morning to begin our scenic, 400 meter downhill (about 7 km) to Trisuli Bazaar on the Kathmandu Lhasa highway. From Trisuli, we cycle up a beautiful middle hills road, heading off onto an incredible rural track, about 14 km to the ridgetop village of Samari. The ethnic groups here are a mix of Magar and Tamang, with some of the Magar women carrying beautiful, bright woven shoulder bags. A favorite moment of this recce cycling day was passing a terraced complex of fields; and when I asked what they were planting a girl told me it was popcorn. A bit tongue in cheek …

We continue cycling on a bumpy, undulating jeep track, enjoying the bucolic views and patchworks of textured fields and villages in the diffused afternoon light, and eventually reach Lapang where we stay at a basic but welcoming Gurung ‘hotel’. The owner will cook us a fabulous dal baht, and bring cold Tuborgs! During our recce trip, we almost stayed at a monastery half an hour before we found this rural guest house, but it was a deal-breaker when we couldn’t have a beer. There is no hot water in the showers in this part of Nepal, so thank God we’re a bit lower in altitude and might enjoy a chilled wash. There are very basic accommodations throughout the region of Dhading, and in fact, this is about the only ‘hotel’ we passed all day. (B, L, D)
Distance 47.8km, Elevation Gain 1,470m, Elevation Loss 1,868m

Day 7 – Bike Gorkha | Gorkha Gaun Resort 885m (57 km)  
An incredibly beautiful (and quite strenuous) day of cycling, leaving our lodge in the magical middle hills light. The first 23 kilometers of cycling is along a relentless stony jeep path, similar to riding along a dry river bed, a mostly uphill ride. We continue to cycle to Khahare on slightly better roads, and it gets HOT once we near Arughat, overlooking the beautiful Buri (Budhi) Gandaki (river). As we cycle, we’re treated to fabulous views, colorful villages, terraced wheat fields, and beautiful, green hillsides colored with yellow mustard and wild lavender flowers. On our recce trip found a great little single track leading to the footbridge over the Buri Gandaki, and then more stone tracks to reach a semi-paved road leading to (and away from) Arughat, which we missed by about 2 km.

We have a hot uphill climb mid-day, but the road is semi-paved or in the process of being paved. The climbing rarely stops until we reached the outskirts of Gorkha, although there were a few short downhills. We finally reach a village where the road is fully asphalted, so the last 25 km high on a ridgetop road is smooth and the cycling. But again relentless ups, a few downhills, with a few flats sections just to keep you hopeful. We take a cut-off to bypass Gorkha about 2 km before the town and cycle along another great smaller jeep track, and reach the road coming from Kathmandu, also lovely. About 2 km later we turn left, and then just have the final small bit of climbing through lovely, open forest to reach the beautiful Gorkha Gaun Resort and our private cottages. Don’t miss the glowing sunset on the surrounding Himalayan peaks, and the city lights in the valley below just afterwards. Dinner is in the dining room above the cottages, we all pay our own dinner and drinks.  (B, L)
Distance 56.5km, Elevation Gain 1,801m, Elevation Loss 1,498m
+ Gorkha Gaun | Upgrade $

Extra Day – Gorkha | Gorkha Fort Sightseeing
Gorkha was once the capital of a massive kingdom that included parts of lower Tibet, and is dominated by an impressive ‘durbar’, or fortress-palace complex, predominately Hindu with frequent animal sacrifices in the name of Durga or Kali in its several old Hindu temples. The fort is perched high up in the surrounding hillsides and reached by nearly an hour of hiking up worn stone steps, often with other Nepali Hindu pilgrims, an extremely photographic afternoon!

Day 8 – Bike Bike Palungtar, Marsyangdi River & Besi Sahar (Lamjung) 790m | Gateway Himalayan Resort   (62.8km)
A beautiful cycling day! We have a much easier day today than yesterday, although only about 10 km shorter. After a sunny, bird-song-filled breakfast overlooking misty Gorkha Fort and middle hills peaks, we leave Gorkha Gaun Resort with swifts darting around us, and pass our first of many wedding parties (during wedding season) on the small road out of the village below Gorkha.

We descend (sometimes through heavy morning fog, have your light on your bike) to 12km where we stop to stock up on fruit at the line of fruit stalls. We turn right on our Barkpak Road for a bit, continuing on this road to Palungtar where during our recce trip we filmed yet another wedding party in the streets. The cycling is mostly downhill on basic, paved roads, the scenery Terai landscapes with old men walking their buffaloes, surrounded by traditional Nepali village activities, and lots of whimsically colorful houses with laundry add color to the vignettes …

We might stop for lunch after Palungtar at a lovely woman’s teahouse (during our recce trip we met our 70-something Giri friend), cycling through beautiful villages with old traditional Nepali houses (one house in Damilikuwaa had a fully dressed man in a helmet hanging from the second floor), biking past green groves of banana and papaya trees, mustard fields, haystacks and more green, terraced fields.

We leave the Gorkha district behind when we cross the Marsyangdi River and reach the highway from Dumre to Besi Sahar at Paudi village. We climb a bit and cross through Lamjung Gate and the check post where we meet another line of fruit stands and the busier main road. We continue on straight to Besi Sahar, the gateway to the Annapurna region, where we stay the night at Gateway Himalayan Resort. (B, L)
Distance 72.82km, Elevation Gain 2,000m, Elevation Loss 2,088m

Day 9 – Bike Ghale Gaun 2100m | Hotel Ghale Gaun Cottage (17.8km)  
A beautiful but challenging cycle up dirt switchbacks to the bucolic mountain village of Ghale Gaun (Kuinli Nasa in Tamu) which has recently become a staging point for scenic treks in this area. Ghale Gaun is where Ghale (elite Gurung) rulers from Kohla Sonthar first settled. The last Ghale king was Ghyalpo Rajalke, and there is a statue in his honor near the ruins of his palace. Local cultural groups perform for visiting tourists with naumati baja and traditional Gurung dances like Ghanto, Sorathi, Pachyu and Ghyabre. – Nepali Times

From Ghale Gaun, we’ll be able to see Mount Machhapuchare (6693m), Annapurna (8091m), Annapurna II (7939m), Annapurna IV (7525m), Lamjung (6932m), Bouddha Himal (6974m) and Himal Chuli (6747m). We stay the night at the locally owned Hotel Ghale Gaun Cottage, a chance to experience the local culture and enjoy some delicious home-grown meals! (B, L, D)
Distance 17.78km, Elevation Gain 1,436m, Elevation Loss 149m

Day 10 – Ghale Gaun | Hotel Ghale Gaun Cottage
We stay an extra day at Ghale Gaun as it was such hard work getting up here, the views are fabulous and the culture is still relatively untouched! Maybe some yoga overlooking Himalayan peaks to loosen up after all of our cycling? (B, L, D)

Day 11 – Bike Bhorlethar & Begnas Tal (Lake) 780m | Begnas Lake Resort (60km)  
We’ll wake to a warm, misty morning with bird songs over our coffee as we look out over wooded hills … We leave Sundar Bazaar and get back on the road, cycling to the Kaski region. We wake to a misty morning with a plethora of birds songs as we cycle, mostly on dirt roads, through Koiralaphant, a small scenic village with houses spread along a flat jeep track. Note the smaller, vibrantly green rice-seeding paddies, goats bleating, chatty Mynah birds and elegant white egrets that we’ll pass as we bike. Soon, we have a climb through forests to the first small pass, Bimire Bhanjyang, followed by a descent on a very rocky and bumpy dirt jeep track to Ratmatar for lunch at small, once-teashop with 2 daughters to help serve. The nice but sad woman who made us lunch on our recce trip told us that bike groups used to come this way once in a while, but don’t anymore …

More bumpy steep descent and possibly some roadmaking as we cycle to the large village of Bhorletar, from where there is an intersecting road to Damauli on the Pokhara highway south of us. We turn right at the intersection at end of town, and cross the Madi Nadi (river) on a suspension bridge that we can ride our bikes over for fun although there is also a cement bridge for cars. After this point, the roads are almost all paved, and the cycling is incredibly beautiful – and it’s very hot! Lots more ups and downs, a challenging ride in the heat. In 2022 we stopped at a scenic abandoned teahouse with incredible views and a shaded bench …

We continue cycling through more dense forest to the next bhanjyang (ridge pass) where (during our recce trip), we avoided the massive rain and hailstorm by seconds; Lhakpa arrived in the rain. Fortunately, there was a small teahouse at the top of the pass, crowded with people getting out of the storm. Once we’ve reached the pass, it’s a wonderful, cruising downhill ride to Begnas Lake Resort, where owners Pawan and Ewa will welcome us to their incredibly situated lakeside resort. 

Begnas Tal is the third-largest lake in Nepal (the second-largest is Phewa Tal), situated amongst eight lakes around the Pokhara Valley. At Begnas Lake Resort, we have the option to upgrade to their fabulous beautiful private cottages by the lake (where during our recce trip were greeted by a rainbow in the small break in the rain). Pawan Ewa have done a wonderful job with Pawan’s parents’ resort, adding yoga centers, massage, spa, sauna, and ayurvedic retreat facilities. We recommend the Thai massages to wind down after the ride! Dinner is in the dining room or near the fireplace in their bar area. (B, L)
Distance 42.1km, Elevation Gain 1,104m, Elevation Loss 1,010m
+ Begnas Lake Resort | Upgrade $

Day 12 – Bike Dhampus 1650m (via Begnas Lake Kora) | Dhampus Panorama Lodge (40.9km)  
An exploratory route today, beginning with an incredibly scenic ‘kora’ ride around the top of Begnas Tal, cycling counter-clockwise around the lake. Continuing to cycle through Kaski district, we have a lovely, rural ride via Baglung to our destination of Dhampus, a beautiful ridgetop village in the Annapurna foothills. From Dhampus, we’ll be treated to a Himalayan panorama including Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhre (the fishtail peak), Hiunchuli and Lanjung Himal. We spend the night in a local Dhampus lodge, either Dhampus Holiday Home or Hotel Panorama Dhampus depending on which lodge is nicer. (B, L, D)
Distance 40.9km, Elevation Gain 1,246m, Elevation Loss 339m

Day 13 – Bike Sarangkot | Explore Foothills Trails | visit Day & Sarangkot Viewpoint Sunset | Hotel Super View  
Leaving Dhampus via a different, equally scenic route, we cycle south and enjoy a beautiful morning ride above the lake biking up to Sarangkot, from where we are treated to an amazing Himalayan panoramas of the Annapurna peaks. We stay at Hotel Super View at the top of Sarangkot hill, a 5 minute hike from the Sarangkot Viewpoint and with epic views down over Pokhara and of the Annapurna range in evening, especially with the rosy orange sunset light … (B, L, D)

Day 14 – Bike Pokhara 825m (via Pokhara Lake Kora Ride) | Hotel Barahi, Lakeview Resort or Hotel Karuna (26.7km)  
Leaving idyllic Begnas Tal, we have two options. The first is an exploratory route around Begnas Tal, which we haven’t yet checked out. The second, we bike downhill along the country road to Pokhara, busy once we reach the city outskirts and have to cycle to Lakeside. We’ll pass through several traditional Nepali middle hills villages as we ride to Pokhara, where we’ll stay the night at Lakeview Resort or Hotel Karuna, or upgrade to Hotel Barahi (which has an amazing breakfast buffet). We have the afternoon to relax and explore Pokhara.

Enjoy the afternoon cycling the shores of Phewa Lake, and maybe biking through some of the more traditional villages north of Pokhara. Or just relax and take a break from the bike in Pokhara. Paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views, drink a huge glass of fresh juice and do some shopping in town, or just sit and relax at the hotel with a book. We’ll head to Moondance Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, a great restaurant just down the road on Lakeside Road. Pokhara is a tranquil city, the jumping-off point for many treks with a stunning backdrop – the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges and Maccapuchare – and well-known for its lake, boat trips, and laid-back atmosphere. We spend a day biking around the lake and up to stunning Sarankot, a village perched way up on a hillside with great mountain views. 

AFTERNOON BIKE (OPTIONAL) | You might opt for an afternoon cycle to World Peace Pagoda and a ‘kora’ of Phewa Lake, a challenging and hilly ride around Phewa Lake to the Buddhist stupa. Cycle past The Hindu temple of Gupteswor Mahadev, past terraced rice paddies and fields, and continue past the Davis waterfalls. 

“A shortish day’s circumnavigation of Phewa Tal is easily possible, heading out along the north shore and returning via Danda Kot and the World Peace Stupa – the last part takes you downhill along single tracks through the forest, coming out just west of Damside. This loop will take most people around five hours. A more adventurous, slightly longer option heads out across the face of the hillside underneath Sarangkot – but you’ll need a guide to find the mix of 4WD trails and single-track; the longer alternative would be to follow the Sarangkot ridge. To make a really full day trip, you can extend the loop south of the Peace Stupa down the Seti Nadi.” – Rough Guides

“After some uphill ride and sweaty experience, you’ll reach World Peace Pagoda. Ride downhill and take some time in exploring other amazing destinations. you’ll take your bike to the villages around or take another route down towards the dam side. Starting at the planet Peace Pagoda, ride a series of staircases on the lakeside of the mountain. you will be skirting below the pagoda and a few cafes. The section is extremely steep, requiring good control of your bike. The downhill trail is narrow and steep here with a couple of turns before transitioning into long runs of the trail on a neater grade. you will pass the route with dense forest where monkeys are sitting high within the trees. We will end our Nepal mountain biking trip above an agriculture field. Stay left to ride along a little ditch towards the river before arriving at your hotel.” – Nepal Mountain Bike (B)
Distance 26.7km, Elevation Gain 495m Elevation Loss 1,336m

+ Hotel Barahi Upgrade (+$)

Extra Pokhara Day – Jo’s Phewa Lake ‘Alternate Fishtail’ Route (46.3 km)  
Jo and local guide did a great loop around Phewa Lake if we end up with an extra day in Pokhara. Cycle around the lake via (counterclockwise) Marki, Birimauna, Magargaon, Gatichhina, through Raniban and Dhunapani. (5 hrs)

Day 15 – Bike Helu Bazaar (Syangja) 1320m (52.5km)  
Leaving Pokhara, we cycle by the airport, eventually turn left, and bike uphill on a not-very-steep paved road, with lovely views down to the lake and checkered fields surrounding this side of Pokhara. Stopping for water or a snack, we might find shopkeepers sorting organic locally grown coffee!

After passing through the entrance gate between Kaski (Pokhara) and Shyangja at Kubinde Bhanjyang, we descend through Phedi Khola and after about 3 km of flat riding will stop for lunch a great teahouse overlooking  Syangja (district) Bhalu Pahad, an odd-looking hill jutting up from a massive bend in the river and a scenic Nepali tourist spot. We continue to cycle 10 km to Putali Bazaar, not a recommended town to bed down for the night so we’ll continue to bike to Hunikot for the evening where we’ll stay at Hunikot Homestay, and enjooy the Himalayan views. (B, L, D)
Distance 41.3km, Elevation Gain 973m, Elevation Loss 632m

Day 16 – Bike Kali Gandaki River, Arya Bhangyang & Tansen 1450m | Horizon Homestay or Hotel Srinagar (70.3km)  
 From Hunikot, it’s mostly flat riding this morning, with some downhill and just a little bit of uphill cycling followed by a potential tea stop around a fire to warm up en route if we have some chilly winter fog in the morning. We continue to cycle to the pink village of Warling, afterward cycling along a winding cliff-side road following a small river. We climb to Galyang Bazaar, and then have an incredible, long downhill to the Kali Gandaki River on a more extreme cliff-side road. After crossing the river on a cement bridge, we’ll stop for a great lunch, including fish and sel roti, on the other side of the river.

After 59 not-so-easy km from Putali Bazaar, the next 30 km to Tansen are generally uphill, although once we reach Arya Bhanjyang the following 15-20 km are much flatter, a wonderful ride overlooking beautiful valleys below. And then finally we’ll be treated to another 10 km of the steepest uphill ride of the day to reach interesting Tansen, and our little Horizon Homestay right at the top of the town. After a shower, we’ll head out for dinner at Nanglo, a famous restaurant with a traditional atmosphere and good regional food. (B, L)
Distance 70.3km, Elevation Gain 2,198m, Elevation Loss 2,066m

+ Hotel Srinagar Upgrade (+$)

Day 17 – Tansen | Explore Tansen Bazaar & Himalayan Views
We’ll explore the incredibly interesting and photogenic hill village of Tansen, starting the morning with a hike or bike ride to the Srinagar Danda hill for Himalayan views! From west to east, the Kanjiroba, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Mansiri, Ganesh and Langtang ranges dominate the skyline. A bit of steep shopping for locally woven ‘dhaka’ fabric in Tansen is also a must! Rest up, get the bike tuned and just wander the alleyways. Also in the area are Ranighat, a Rana palace next to the Kali Gandaki River, and Ridi Bazaar, a Hindu pilgrimage spot at the auspicious confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Ridi Rivers, with a large mela (Hindu festival) once a year. 

“Tansen is in the western hills of the Palpa district of Nepal, on the crest of the Mahabharat Range or Lesser Himalaya overlooking the valley of the Kali Gandaki (river) to the north … with a central maze of steep, narrow, winding alleys lined with Newari shop-Houses and temples.

Tansen was the capital of the Magar Kingdom (Barha Magarat) Palpa, one of the most powerful regional principalities before the rise of the Shah dynasty. It even came close to conquering Kathmandu in the 16^th century under the leadership of Mukunda Sen. The Palpa district is home to the Magar people, and the name Tansen has its origins in the Magar language, meaning northern settlement. Local Magar kings lost influence in the 18^th century and Tansen became a Newari bazaar on the important trade route between India and Tibet via the Kali Gandaki River and Mustang. Because it was a district administrative center of the Kingdom of Nepal, Maoists targeted Tansen several times during the Nepalese Civil War, including a major assault on the historic Durbar (palace) compound in 2006. Tansen is the home of United Mission Hospital, established in 1954 as a partnership between the people of Nepal and a coalition of 20 Christian organizations on four continents”. – Wikipedia (B, L)

Extra Day – Bike Butwal & Lumbini (Terai) 150m | Buddha Maya Resort Ride (33.5km)  
A big downhill to Butwal and on to Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. We start the morning with about 20 km of downhill to Bhutawal, a well-earned and fun descent! We can stop for some bata (fried potato and dal snacks) at the bottom of the hill before cycling along the beautiful, hazy cliff-side trail. And then begins the roadbuilding; finally, after another 10km or so of dusty and bumpy roads we reach the large and busy city of Butawal.

From Butwal, we head southwest on an alternative road to the busy highway, following the old Mahinda Highway for about 20 km. This road is less busy than the bigger highway, but not the serene middle hills. We’ll have lunch along the way, the temperature increasing as we cycle to the terai. 25 generally busy, chaotic and polluted km before we gave up and put the bikes on the jeep, and drove the rest of the way to Chitwan. The first 10 or so km out of Lumini were pretty – and flat, as was most of the rest of the day – but as we got close to the airport it all went pear shaped. Awful road-making, a new highway, and the generally terrible conditions, traffic and pollution of Nepal and Terai roads ….

After lunch, we have another 17 km of cycling to reach Lumbini, during which we leave the highway and turn onto the small, beautiful and flat Guatam Buddha Road. Buffalos, planted fields, hazy, typical Terai landscapes until we reached Lumbini. We turn left and cycle around Lumbini complex, finally reaching Buddha Maya Resort, owned by KGH.

After a quick stop to drop bags, we’ll cycle back to Lumbini for a tour of the historic complex. “Siddhartha Gautama, the Lord Buddha, was born in 623 B.C. in the famous gardens of Lumbini, which soon became a place of pilgrimage. Among the pilgrims was the Indian emperor Ashoka, who erected one of his commemorative pillars there. The site is now being developed as a Buddhist pilgrimage centre, where the archaeological remains associated with the birth of the Lord Buddha form a central feature.” – UNESCO
Distance 86.82m or 33.5

Day 19 – Bike Bharatpur & Drive Chitwan | Maruni Sanctuary Lodge (115km) 
EDIT COMING
Leaving Tansen, we’ll enjoy the big downhill 20 km ride to the river, a well-earned and fun descent! We can stop for some bata (fried potato and dal snacks) at the bottom of the hill before cycling along the beautiful, hazy cliff-side trail. And then begins the roadbuilding; finally, after another 10km or so of dusty and bumpy roads we reach the large and busy city of Butwal where we get into our jeep for the rest of the ride to the Chitwan turnoff. We’ll enjoy the short and flat ride on the idyllic rural road to Chitwan, a lovely 6-7 km late afternoon ride through Terai villages, the hazy red sun just starting to descend …

Once at Chitwan, we’ll check into the wonderful Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, and enjoy a delicious Tharu dal baht with sticky rice cooked in the campfire, fiddlehead fern, local fish, cooked papaya, with some cold Gorkha beers to celebrate the end of our epic Nepal bicycle journey! (B, L, D)

Extra Days Chitwan | Birdwatching & Wildlife Safaris & Optional Morning Ride (10km) 
Spend some extra days cycling (although the jeep is driving any unneeded bicycles back to Kathmandu), birdwarching and wildlife viewing at Chitwan. You have the choice of staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, or transferring to Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge or Barahi Jungle Lodge in Chitwan …

CYCLING OPTIONS | Spend the morning cycling through some of the small villages around Chitwan National Park, possibly through some Rana Tharu villages and past the elephant dung paper factory. Cycle along the serene Rapti East River and watch locals fishing, looking for kingfishers and herons as we bike by in the hazy morning light. We previously met a Brahmin bee-keeper family who sold us some wild jungle flower honey. You can discover how mustard oil is made, ride past vibrant seeding paddies, stop to photograph banana groves, and cycle past local Brahmin and Tamang villages. 

We recommend biking back to Maruni for lunch as it gets hot in the jungle, and then head out for some wildlife safaris in the afternoon, and enjoy a delicious Tharu dal baht with sticky rice cooked in the campfire, fiddlehead fern, local fish, cooked papaya, and more! (B, L, D)
Distance 10km (approx)

Chitwan National Park 
Experience the Chitwan World Heritage Site in the comfort of the Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, located in a pristine natural environment on the edge of the Chitwan National Park. Maruni Sanctuary Lodge offers an excellent opportunity to view rare and endangered species in their rich natural habitat. The park is home to the endangered one-horned rhinoceros, tigers and the narrow-snouted gharial crocodile. Maruni is located between two villages of the Rana Tharu Community, who traditionally consider themselves people of the forest. You’ll have a chance to meet with them and see how they live.

Maruni wildlife guides are attentive, with good English skills, and truly interested to share their culture and their knowledge of the local wildlife. Options for the afternoon include walking or driving wildlife safaris and bird watching in a dug-out canoe trip along the river in the morning mist, with Kingfisher on every tree top. Madhav, the head naturalist, will be eager to get us out on a jungle walk. We might see spotted deer, sambal, kingfisher, storks, jungle fowl, crocodiles, gharial, ruddy shelducks, tiger and one-horned rhinos. (B, L, D)

Day 20 – Drive Bharatpur Airport | Fly Kathmandu | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
We’ll enjoy a misty morning breakfast, and then transfer to the Bharatpur Airport where we have a short flight back to Kathmandu. Once back to our lovely rooms at the Kathmandu Guest House, we have the rest of the afternoon to pack our bikes before heading out to dinner. (B)

Extra Day  – Kathmandu
A free day in endlessly fascinating Kathmandu, with options to cycle the Kathmandu valley, to do any World Heritage Sightseeing that you missed before our Nepal bike trip, and to pack up your bike (or return your rental bike) for the return flight home. We’ll meet for a dinner out in Thamel or perhaps go to Boudha for some koras, a visit to Cafe Caravan and dinner on the Roadhouse deck overlooking Boudhanath Stupa … (B)

Day 21 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA
We drop you at the airport for your international flight. Thanks for joining us for our epic bike journey from Pokhara to Kathmandu. Namaste! (B)

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

The Great Nepal Bicycle Journey (Short) – Nepal Himalayan Cycling Trip
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House | Bike Rental-Assembly 
Welcome to Nepal! You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it. Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks …

Those who need to rent bikes will go to Himalayan Single Track just nearby in Thamel (right in back of KGH) to get fitted for rental bikes, and then take the bikes out on a short spin around the back streets of Kathmandu to check them out. You’ll have the rest of the afternoon to do some sightseeing in Kathmandu on foot or by bike. (B)

Extra Day – Kathmandu | Day Bike Ride 
Morning meeting at 9 AM in the back garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to collect passports, insurance information, and photos, and go over some of our bike details and logistics. If you’re ready to get on your bike and explore the Kathmandu valley, we have many excursions available. 

The day is free to explore Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley, shop, wander Thamel’s interesting streets, visit the spa, have a massage, or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. (B)

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath  
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Extra Day – Bike Namo Buddha | Namo Buddha Resort or Namo Buddha Monastery Guest House
A beautiful middle hills cycling trip leaving Kathmandu, with plenty of hills once we leave the bustling Central Asian city. We love cycling the Kathmandu Valley and valleyy rim roads, trails and jeep tracks, and have explored this incredibly scenic and diverse region for over 20 years. Our first cycling day features an incredibly scenic ride to the Buddhist monastery of Namo Buddha on the eastern valley rim. (B, L)
Distance
+ Namo Buddha Resort | Upgrade $

Day 2 – Bike Changu Narayan & Nagarkot | Mountain Resort 1950m  (28.5km)
Our Great Nepal Bicycle Journeys begins at the Kathmandu Guest House, from where we cycle some interesting back roads to Mulpani past Boudhanath, and northwest towards the hill village of Nagarkot, one of the valley’s most beautiful rides. We cycle past terraced rice paddies, on dirt trails through lush wooded hillsides, and bike past many traditional and historic villages en route to Nagarkot. We’ll cycle via Changu Narayan, an ancient Hindu Vishnu temple complex, one of the oldest in Nepal. “A Kashmiri king is said to have given his daughter, Champak, in marriage to the prince of Bhaktapur.”

“The Legend of Changu Narayan | In ancient times a gwala or cow herder, bought a cow from a Brahmin named Sudarshan. The cow was known for producing large quantities of milk and t cow herder used to take the cow to Changu for grazing. At that time Changu was a forest of Champak trees. While grazing, the cow always went to the shade of a particular tree and a boy used to come there and drink the cow’s milk. In the evening, when the cow herder took the cow home and started milking her, he got only a very small amount of milk. This continued for several days. He grew very sad, so he called on the Brahmin saying the cow was not giving enough milk. After observing this, Sudarshan agreed with the cow herder. The next day they observed the cow’s daytime activity while she was grazing in the forest.

Brahmin and cow herder both hid behind the tree. To their surprise, a small black boy came out of the tree and started drinking the cow’s milk. The two men were furious because they thought the boy must be the devil and tree must be its home. So the Brahmin cut down the champak tree. When he was cutting it down, fresh human blood came out of the tree. Both Brahmin and cow herder got worried, believing they had committed a great crime and began to cry. Lord Vishnu emerged from the tree and told the Brahmin and Cowherd it was not their fault. Vishnu told the story of how he had committed a heinous crime by unwittingly killing Sudarshan’s father while hunting in the forest. After that, cursed for the crime, he wandered the earth on his mount, ‘Garuda’, eventually descending on the hill at Changu. There he lived in anonymity, surviving on milk stolen from a cow. When the Brahmin cut down the tree, Vishnu was beheaded, which freed Lord Vishnu from his sins. After hearing these words from Vishnu, the Brahmin and the cow herder resolved to worship the place and established a small temple in the name of Lord Vishnu. Ever since the site has been sacred. Even today, we find Sudarshan’s descendants as priests of the temple and the cow herder’s descendants as ghutiyars (conservators).” – Wikipedia. 

After looking around the complex and having a cup of tea, we take a paved, lovely, nicely graded country road all the way up to Nagarkot. On top of a Kathmandu Valley ridge, Nagarkot was an ancient Kathmandu valley fortress constructed to keep watch of the other small kingdoms around the valley. Later, it became the royal family’s summer retreat. We spend our first night of the Nepal bicycle trip at the Sherpa-run Mountain Resort, where we’ll hopefully have some great Himalayan views for sunset and sunrise. The panorama includes the Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Jugal, Rolwaling, Everest and Numbur ranges, with views down to the Kathmandu valley and into Shivapuri National Park. (B, L, D)
Distance 28.44km, Elevation Gain 976m, Elevation Loss 378m

Day 3 – Bike Hibung (Shivapuri National Park) | Prakiti Resort 2030m  (20.5km)
From Kathmandu | Leaving Kathmandu, we cycle the back roads to Mahankaal, the Sundarijal checkpost. Entering the national park, we cycle up the road on the right, heading up to Mulkharka (and another check post) where we’ll stop for a cup of chai. Continuing to cycle on a nice, gradual dirt jeep track, we eventually reach Jhule Dhanda on the ridge, the junction to Nagarkot or Chisopani-Shivapuri.
Distance: 36.5km

From Nagarkot | Leaving lovely Nagarkot behind (but keeping the Himalayan views all day), we cycle south to Buddha Mandir at Jarsing Pauwa, and then up to Lapsephedi. Continuing to cycle on a nice, gradual dirt jeep track, we eventually reach Jhule Dhanda on the ridge, the junction to Nagarkot or Chisopani-Shivapuri.

From here, we leave behind the views back to the Kathmandu valley and look north towards the beautiful Helambu valley. The cycling becomes a bit chilly, and possibly a little icy as we bike in the shaded wood, but we have incredible Himalayan views throughout the rest of the ride, and reach 2225 meters on the highest points of the ride. We soon reached a perfectly located boiled egg and dry chana masala stop just before Hibung, where the teashop owner showed us a white rock marker way up this hill at Kutumang.

We have a quick and stunningly beautiful ride to Pratiki Resort, an amazing plant and flower-filled mountain resort.  There are fabulous sunset views from above the lodge, a cozy, wood-burning stove in the dining room, and delicious dal baht with fresh greens from their garden to finish off an all-around great Himalayan cycling day! 

“Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park was established in 2002, located in Nepal’s middle hills on the northern fringe of the Kathmandu Valley. The park is named after Shivapuri Peak (2732m) and is spread through the districts of Kathmandu, Nuwakot, Sindhupalchowk and Dhading. Himalayan subtropical broadleaf forests in the subtropical zone, with chir pine stands on southern dry ridges and clusters of alder, wild Himalayan cherry, and oak along the streams, and broadleaf evergreen species of oak and laurel families mix with rhododendron on the northern slopes.”

The wildlife in the part includes “Indian leopard, jungle cat, large Indian civet, golden jackal, Himalayan black bear, yellow-throated marten, small Indian mongoose, Himalayan goral, Indian muntjac, wild boar, rhesus monkey, Hanuman langur, Chinese pangolin, Indian crested porcupine, Royle’s pika, Indian hare, orange-bellied Himalayan squirrel, fawn-colored mouse, Hodgsons’s brown-toothed shrew and black rat. Clouded leopard, leopard cat, masked palm civet, crab-eating mongoose, Indian pangolin, rhesus macaque and yellow-throated marten, were camera trapped. In the western part of the park, herpetologists encountered Monocled cobra, Himalayan keelback, olive Oriental slender snake, yellow-bellied worm-eating snake, variegated mountain lizard, Oriental garden lizard, many-keeled grass skink, Sikkim skink, black-spined toad, long-legged cricket frog and horned frog. Ornithologists recorded 318 species of birds including Eurasian eagle-owl, slender-billed scimitar-babbler, white-gorgeted flycatcher, barred cuckoo-dove and golden-throated barbet.” – Wikipedia (B, L, D)
Distance 19.65km, Elevation Gain 715m Elevation Loss 603m

Day 4 – Bike Gule Bhanjyang (Helambu) 2260m  (19km)
We’ll wake to a breathtakingly beautiful, balmy sunrise from the deck of the room at Pratiki Resort, with breakfast and some stretching out in the sun as well before heading about 4 km to Chisopani, with the iconic, tilted earthquake lodge. Dropping down along a dirt road, we pass the last standing earthquake house to reach Pati Bhanjhang, an intersection to Gosainkunda-Langtang or Helambu. From here, we have a choice of steep and rugged roads. On our recce trip, we took the newer, longer road to the right (towards Chipling) and had to jump into jeep after a few km as it was just too steep, rocky and sandy to be enjoyable. We reach the forested ridgetop after about 4 or 5 km, and continue to cycle the short distance to Gul Bhanjhang, a dusty, and unattractive village. We continue along a dirt road for 4-5 km, also steep but a slightly better route better and with good views towards Helambu and Kutumsang.

On our recce trip, we spent the night at Namaste Lodge in Kutamsang (2360m), a basic but lovely family-run lodge with amazing Himalayan sunsets and sunrises from the rooftop, although it’s cold. On this trip, we’ll stop at Gule Bhanjyang on a lovely ridge, another Helembu village that’s slightly closer so fits better with our cycling schedule on both days. (B, L, D)
Distance 23.24km, Elevation Gain 1,468m, Elevation Loss 1,020m (Kutumsang)
Distance 19 km, Elevation Gain 1,000m, Elevation Loss 1,000m (Gule Bhanjyang)

Day 5 – Bike Nuwakot | The Famous Farm 1010m  (47.5km)
An incredibly beautiful Himalayan cycling day, leaving Kutumsang (or Gule Bhanjyang) during the crisp, clear morning light and descending on a bumpy jeep road (the jeep might go around on another road) over some ice and snow, with Himalayan views the entire descent. On our recce trip, we took a different route from our jeep and met it at the intersection (volleyball court) that we reach leaving Gule Bhanjyang. The next village we reach on our dirt-road descent is Chupare (which translates as no water village), a Tamang village speaking some variation of the Yolmo language as well.

On our recce trip, we met a saffron-clad yogi on the road, heading to what turned out to be a Tamang festival celebrated throughout that region. We gave Yogi Ram a ride from the tea stop, and then had an easy river crossing. from where the road becomes better, mostly paved with a few interspersed dirt and unpaved sections. We bike past textured green potato fields in the very beautiful Nuwakot valley, cycling just above the Tadi Khola (river). We pass banana trees, clusters of traditional villages, and colorful festivals en route, with lots of women wearing beautiful red saris on special days (which are many in Nepal). We bike past Satbise (the seventh stop along the trade route from Nuwakot to Helambu, and then on to Tibet) as we continue our incredibly scenic ride and it generally remains quite warm for the rest of the day.

We reach the village of Dukure, turn right at the temple and ride up the last steep 4-5 km of dirt road. It’s quite steep, rocky and challenging, so feel free to ditch the bike and take the jeep for this last section! We arrive at the wonderful heritage Famous Farm for a fabulous sunset, with beers and dinner later, around a wood fire. (B, L)
Distance 49.05km, Elevation Gain 1,067m, Elevation Loss 2,553m (From Kutumsang)
Distance 49.05km, Elevation Gain 1,067m, Elevation Loss 2,553m (Adjust from Gule Bhanjyang)

Extra Day – Nuwakot | The Famous Farm | Nuwakot Cycling Loop
When we did our recce trip, Lhakpa and I decided to spend an extra day in beautiful Nuwakot as we rarely get up here, so Dambar, the manager of Famous Farm, suggested a lovely loop ride. Below the Nuwakot Durbar, counterclockwise along a high-ish ridge, first along a big road being built. Tea at Chokate, then the road became more paved, with beautiful views down Nuwakot valley.
Distance 31.5km

Day 6 – Bike Trisuli Bazaar, Samari Bhanjyhang & Lapang (Dhading) 565m  (47km)
Another misty middle hills morning to begin our scenic, 400 meter downhill (about 7 km) to Trisuli Bazaar on the Kathmandu Lhasa highway. From Trisuli, we cycle up a beautiful middle hills road, heading off onto an incredible rural track, about 14 km to the ridgetop village of Samari. The ethnic groups here are a mix of Magar and Tamang, with some of the Magar women carrying beautiful, bright woven shoulder bags.

We continue to cycle on a bumpy, undulating jeep track, enjoying the views and patchwork of fields and villages in the difused afternoon light, and eventually reach Lapang, where we stay at a basic but welcoming Gurung ‘hotel’. The owner will cook us a fabulous dal baht, and bring cold Tuborgs! (During our recce trip, we almost stayed at a monastery en route, but it was a deal-breaker when we couldn’t have a beer.) There is no hot water in the showers in this part of Nepal, so thank God we’re a bit lower in altitude. There are very basic accommodations throughout the region of Dhading, and in fact, this is about the only ‘hotel’ we passed all day! A favorite moment of this recce cycling day was passing a terraced complex of fields; and when I asked what they were planting a girl told me it was popcorn. (B, L, D)
Distance 47.83km, Elevation Gain 1,470m, Elevation Loss 1,868m

Day 7 – Bike Gorkha | Gorkha Gaun Resort 885m  (56.5km)
An incredibly beautiful (and quite tiring) day of cycling, the first 23 km on relentless stone jeep path which feels like riding directly on a river bed, a mostly uphill ride (I don’t have shocks on my all-terrain touring bike). We continue to cycle to Khahare, and it gets HOT once we near Arughat, overlooking the beautiful Buri (Budhi) Gandaki (river). As we cycle, we’re treated to fabulous views, colorful villages, terraced wheat fields, and beautiful, green hillsides colored with yellow mustard and wild lavender flowers. On our recce trip found a great little single track leading to the footbridge over the Buri Gandaki, and then more stone tracks to reach a semi-paved road leading to (and away from) Arughat, which we missed by about 2 km.

We have a hot uphill climb mid-day, but the road is semi-paved or in the process of being paved. The climbing rarely stops until we reached the outskirts of Gorkha, although there were a few short downhills. We finally reach a village where the road is fully asphalted, so the last 25 km high on a ridgetop road is smooth and the cycling. But again relentless ups, a few downhills, with a few flats sections just to keep you hopeful. We take a cut-off to bypass Gorkha about 2 km before the town and cycle along another great smaller jeep track, and reach the road coming from Kathmandu, also lovely. About 2 km later we turn left, and then just have the final small bit of climbing to reach the beautiful Gorkha Goan Resort and our private cottages. (B, L)
Distance 56.54km, Elevation Gain 1,801m, Elevation Loss 1,498m
+ Gorkha Gaun | Upgrade $

Extra Day – Gorkha | Gorkha Fort Sightseeing
Gorkha was once the capital of a massive kingdom that included parts of lower Tibet, and is dominated by an impressive ‘durbar’, or fortress-palace complex, predominately Hindu with frequent animal sacrifices in the name of Durga or Kali in its several old Hindu temples. The fort is perched high up in the surrounding hillsides and reached by nearly an hour of hiking up worn stone steps, often with other Nepali Hindu pilgrims, an extremely photographic afternoon!

Day 8 – Bike Bike Palungtar, Marsyangdi River & Besi Sahar (Lamjung) 790m | Gateway Himalayan Resort   (72km)
A beautiful cycling day! We have a much easier day today than yesterday, although only about 10 km shorter. After a sunny, bird-song-filled breakfast overlooking misty Gorkha Fort and middle hills peaks, we leave Gorkha Gaun Resort with swifts darting around us, and pass our first of many wedding parties (during wedding season) on the small road out of the village below Gorkha.

We descend (sometimes through heavy morning fog, have your light on your bike) to 12km where we stop to stock up on fruit at the line of fruit stalls. We turn right on our Barkpak Road for a bit, continuing on this road to Palungtar where during our recce trip we filmed yet another wedding party in the streets. The cycling is mostly downhill on basic, paved roads, the scenery Terai landscapes with old men walking their buffaloes, surrounded by traditional Nepali village activities, and lots of whimsically colorful houses with laundry add color to the vignettes …

We might stop for lunch after Palungtar at a lovely woman’s teahouse (during our recce trip we met our 70-something Giri friend), cycling through beautiful villages with old traditional Nepali houses (one house in Damilikuwaa had a fully dressed man in a helmet hanging from the second floor), biking past green groves of banana and papaya trees, mustard fields, haystacks and more green, terraced fields.

We leave the Gorkha district behind when we cross the Marsyangdi River and reach the highway from Dumre to Besi Sahar at Paudi village. We climb a bit and cross through Lamjung Gate and the check post where we meet another line of fruit stands and the busier main road. We continue on straight to Besi Sahar, the gateway to the Annapurna region, where we stay the night at Gateway Himalayan Resort. (B, L)
Distance 72.82km, Elevation Gain 2,000m, Elevation Loss 2,088m

Day 9 – Bike Ghale Gaun 2100m | Hotel Ghale Gaun Cottage  (18km)
A beautiful but challenging cycle up dirt switchbacks to the bucolic mountain village of Ghale Gaun (Kuinli Nasa in Tamu) which has recently become a staging point for scenic treks in this area. Ghale Gaun is where Ghale (elite Gurung) rulers from Kohla Sonthar first settled. The last Ghale king was Ghyalpo Rajalke, and there is a statue in his honor near the ruins of his palace. Local cultural groups perform for visiting tourists with naumati baja and traditional Gurung dances like Ghanto, Sorathi, Pachyu and Ghyabre. – Nepali Times

From Ghale Gaun, we’ll be able to see Mount Machhapuchare (6693m), Annapurna (8091m), Annapurna II (7939m), Annapurna IV (7525m), Lamjung (6932m), Bouddha Himal (6974m) and Himal Chuli (6747m). We stay the night at the locally owned Hotel Ghale Gaun Cottage, a chance to experience the local culture and enjoy some delicious home-grown meals! (B, L, D)
Distance 17.78km, Elevation Gain 1,436m, Elevation Loss 149m

Day 10 – Ghale Gaun | Hotel Ghale Gaun Cottage
We stay an extra day at Ghale Gaun as it was such hard work getting up here, the views are fabulous and the culture is still relatively untouched! Maybe some yoga overlooking Himalayan peaks to loosen up after all of our cycling? (B, L, D)

Day 11 – Bike Sundar Bazaar (Lamjung) 615m | Local Guest Hous  (33.5km)
Returning on a long, fun downhill ride to Besi Sahar, we turn right at the fruit stalls and check post, climb for another 2 km or so, and then have a flat, beautiful village ride to Sundar Bazaar. We’ll arrive in Sundar Bazaar with time to explore its interesting bazaar; the lower bazaar is the more scenic and interesting shopping road to wander along than the busier upper bazaar. We spend the night at a local lodge, not the greatest of accommodations but there isn’t much to choose from in Sundar Bazaar. (B, L, D)
Distance 33.17km, Elevation Gain 391m, Elevation Loss 1,830m

BIKE NOTE | We might try an exploratory route from Ghale Gaun, so have kept this day slightly shorter so that we have this option. 

Day 12 – Bike Bhorlethar & Begnas Tal (Lake) 780m | Begnas Lake Resort  (42.5km)
We’ll wake to a warm, misty morning with bird songs over our coffee as we look out over wooded hills … We leave Sundar Bazaar and get back on the road, cycling to the Kaski region. We wake to a misty morning with a plethora of birds songs as we cycle, mostly on dirt roads, through Koiralaphant, a small scenic village with houses spread along a flat jeep track. Note the smaller, vibrantly green rice-seeding paddies, goats bleating, chatty Mynah birds and elegant white egrets that we’ll pass as we bike. Soon, we have a climb through forests to the first small pass, Bimire Bhanjyang, followed by a descent on a very rocky and bumpy dirt jeep track to Ratmatar for lunch at small, once-teashop with 2 daughters to help serve. The nice but sad woman who made us lunch on our recce trip told us that bike groups used to come this way once in a while, but don’t anymore …

More bumpy steep descent and possibly some roadmaking as we cycle to the large village of Bhorletar, from where there is an intersecting road to Damauli on the Pokhara highway south of us. We turn right at the intersection at end of town, and cross the Madi Nadi (river) on a suspension bridge that we can ride our bikes over for fun although there is also a cement bridge for cars. After this point, the roads are almost all paved, and the cycling is incredibly beautiful – and it’s very hot! Lots more ups and downs, a challenging ride in the heat. In 2022 we stopped at a scenic abandoned teahouse with incredible views and a shaded bench …

We continue cycling through more dense forest to the next bhanjyang (ridge pass) where (during our recce trip), we avoided the massive rain and hailstorm by seconds; Lhakpa arrived in the rain. Fortunately, there was a small teahouse at the top of the pass, crowded with people getting out of the storm. Once we’ve reached the pass, it’s a wonderful, cruising downhill ride to Begnas Lake Resort, where owners Pawan and Ewa will welcome us to their incredibly situated lakeside resort. 

Begnas Tal is the third-largest lake in Nepal (the second-largest is Phewa Tal), situated amongst eight lakes around the Pokhara Valley. At Begnas Lake Resort, we have the option to upgrade to their fabulous beautiful private cottages by the lake (where during our recce trip were greeted by a rainbow in the small break in the rain). Pawan Ewa have done a wonderful job with Pawan’s parents’ resort, adding yoga centers, massage, spa, sauna, and ayurvedic retreat facilities. We recommend the Thai massages to wind down after the ride! Dinner is in the dining room or near the fireplace in their bar area. (B, L)
Distance 42.05km, Elevation Gain 1,104m, Elevation Loss 1,010m
+ Begnas Lake Resort | Upgrade $

Day 13 – Bike Begnas Lake Kora & Dhampus 1650m | Dhampus Holiday Home 1650m  (41km)
An exploratory route today, beginning with an incredibly scenic ‘kora’ ride around the top of Begnas Tal, cycling counter-clockwise around the lake. Continuing to cycle through Kaski district, we have a lovely, rural ride via Baglung to our destination of Dhampus, a beautiful ridgetop village in the Annapurna foothills. From Dhampus, we’ll be treated to a Himalayan panorama including Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhre (the fishtail peak), Hiunchuli and Lanjung Himal. We spend the night in a local Dhampus lodge, either Dhampus Holiday Home or Hotel Panorama Dhampus depending on which lodge is nicer. (B, L, D)
Distance 40.92km, Elevation Gain 1,246m, Elevation Loss 339m

Day 14 – Bike Sarangkot & Pokhara 825m | Hotel Barahi, Lakeview Resort or Hotel Karuna – Christmas Day!  (27km)
Leaving Dhampus via a different, equally secnic route, we cycle south and enjoy a beautiful morning ride above the lake biking up to Sarangkot, from where we are treated to an amazing Himalayan panoramas of the Annapurna peaks.

AFTERNOON BIKE (OPTIONAL) | You might opt for an afternoon cycle to World Peace Pagoda and a ‘kora’ of Phewa Lake, a challenging and hilly ride around Phewa Lake to the Buddhist stupa. Cycle past The Hindu temple of Gupteswor Mahadev, past terraced rice paddies and fields, and continue past the Davis waterfalls. 

“A shortish day’s circumnavigation of Phewa Tal is easily possible, heading out along the north shore and returning via Danda Kot and the World Peace Stupa – the last part takes you downhill along single tracks through the forest, coming out just west of Damside. This loop will take most people around five hours. A more adventurous, slightly longer option heads out across the face of the hillside underneath Sarangkot – but you’ll need a guide to find the mix of 4WD trails and single-track; the longer alternative would be to follow the Sarangkot ridge. To make a really full day trip, you can extend the loop south of the Peace Stupa down the Seti Nadi.” – Rough Guides

“After some uphill ride and sweaty experience, you’ll reach World Peace Pagoda. Ride downhill and take some time in exploring other amazing destinations. you’ll take your bike to the villages around or take another route down towards the dam side. Starting at the planet Peace Pagoda, ride a series of staircases on the lakeside of the mountain. you will be skirting below the pagoda and a few cafes. The section is extremely steep, requiring good control of your bike. The downhill trail is narrow and steep here with a couple of turns before transitioning into long runs of the trail on a neater grade. you will pass the route with dense forest where monkeys are sitting high within the trees. We will end our Nepal mountain biking trip above an agriculture field. Stay left to ride along a little ditch towards the river before arriving at your hotel.” – Nepal Mountain Bike

Enjoy the afternoon cycling the shores of Phewa Lake, and maybe biking through some of the more traditional villages north of Pokhara. Or just relax and take a break from the bike in Pokhara. Paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views, drink a huge glass of fresh juice and do some shopping in town, or just sit and relax at the hotel with a book. We’ll head to Moondance Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, a great restaurant just down the road on Lakeside Road. Pokhara is a tranquil city, the jumping-off point for many treks with a stunning backdrop – the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges and Maccapuchare – and well-known for its lake, boat trips, and laid-back atmosphere. We spend a day biking around the lake and up to stunning Sarankot, a village perched way up on a hillside with great mountain views. (B)

… and continuing downhill along the country road to Pokhara, busy once we reach the city outskirts and have to cycle the 15+ km to Lakeside. We’ll pass through several traditional Nepali middle hills villages as we ride to Pokhara, where we’ll stay the night at Lakeview Resort or Hotel Karuna, or upgrade to Hotel Barahi (which has an amazing breakfast buffet). We have the afternoon to relax and explore Pokhara …
Distance 26.76km, Elevation Gain 495m Elevation Loss 1,336m
+ Hotel Barahi | Upgrade $

Day 15 – Fly Kathmandu | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
We drop you at the Pokhara Airport for your short flight back to Kathmandu, and transfer back to your lovely rooms at the Kathmandu Guest House. You’ll have the rest of the afternoon to pack your bikes, relax in the garden, or do any World Heritage Sightseeing that you missed earlier. You might want go to Boudha for some koras, a visit to Cafe Caravan and have dinner on the Roadhouse deck overlooking Boudhanath Stupa … (B)

Day 16 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA
We drop you at the airport for your international flight. Thanks for joining us for our epic bike journey from Pokhara to Kathmandu. Namaste! (B)

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

Panchase Trails
Mountain biking in Panchase hill is an amazing day and overnight trip that could be all mountain kind of ride through villages, forest, river suspension bridges and of ‘course the stunning views of Annapurna Himalaya range. Its perfect ride for someone who looking for challenging ride in physical and technical perspectives. Panchase top is a scenic place; it is believed that yoga Teacher (Patanjali Rishi Muni) got liberation and enlightenment here. In our case we will get definitely prove our physical and technical riding enlighten on our mountain biking. – Nepal Mountain Bike

Phewa Tal Loop
A shortish day’s circumnavigation of Phewa Tal is easily possible, heading out along the north shore and returning via Danda Kot and the World Peace Stupa – the last part takes you downhill along single tracks through the forest, coming out just west of Damside. This loop will take most people around five hours. A more adventurous, slightly longer option heads out across the face of the hillside underneath Sarangkot – but you’ll need a guide to find the mix of 4WD trails and single-track; the longer alternative would be to follow the Sarangkot ridge. To make a really full day-trip, you can extend the loop south of the Peace Stupa down the Seti Nadi.

Sarangkot Plus
The hilltop viewpoint of Sarangkot makes a great focus for an intermediate-level day-trip or overnight, and one that can be easily done without a guide. From the Bindyabasini temple in the bazaar, follow the paved road 8km westwards to Sarangkot town and lodges, where there’s a junction: the hilltop viewpoint is another 3km along to the right, while the left-hand fork leads towards Naudaada. The first 10km of the Naudaada road contours pleasantly along the south side of the ridge through forest, terraced farmland and villages; at Naudaada you can head back to Pokhara on the busy Baglung Highway. A shorter, but more demanding alternative is to break off the Naudaada road at the saddle of Deurali, then descend steeply on off-road tracks via Kaskiot to Pame, a couple of kilometers west of Pokhara along the lakeshore.

Begnas & Rupa Tal
A fine road, paved only in its earliest sections, follows a ridge between two beautiful lakes, Rupa Tal and Begnas Tal, and then westwards to Besisahar. A network of trails developing in this region can offer one or several days’ riding – enquire at Pokhara bike shops. A fairly tough, long day’s route, involving some carrying, is known as the Begnas Loop: it takes you east of Pokhara (from the Bhadrakali Mandir), along the ridge road past Tiger Mountain Resort to Kalikasthan and Tiwaridanda; from here it’s downhill, heading south on a rough road to Kotbari and Sundari Danda, then back on the partially paved road between Begnas and Rupa Tal. Heading east of Begnas Tal, it’s a 40km three-day rough-road trip through Bhorletar and Sundaari Bazaar on the way to the paved road at Besisahar; from there you could head on up the new road up the Marsyangdi valley (the eastern side of the Annapurna Circuit) or return to Pokhara (with a side trip to Bandipur).

Begnas Tal Kora
Mountain biking trails around the lake is awesome. Most of the people think that round the lake trails must be easy and flat along the lake which is not true. If you thinking to ride the Fewa Lake round get ready to challenge your own fitness as well as technical skills. The trails consist with Lake Valley, river bay, people walking single trails, challenging uphill, scenic amazing landscapes, Lake and Mountain View, entire Pokhara valley and technical and flowy downhill with rocks, roots, and stair cases through forest. It’s not a man-made bike park though the queen forest offer one of the best single trails that Pokhara valley has to offer. You can ride more mileage as there are plenty of optional to extend the ride. – Nepal Mountain Bike

Royal Trek, Begnas Lake & Kristi Village
Mountain biking on the Royal trek is definitely entirely fun time on your bike. This amazing place named after the Prince Charles did his trekking during early eighties since then trekking entrepreneur titled this route The Royal trek route. We have recently added value on this trails by riding mountain biking. It’s definitely seldom visited place by mountain bikers. The trail offers amazing landscapes criss- cross terraces, villages, Begnas and Rupa Lake, Madhi river valley, Annapurna ranges and natural bride over Seti River is an interesting site to see. This destination has unlimited amazing routes if you wish to extend Round the Rupa lake, Kristi village and Mattikhan to Pumdi Bhumdi village which is a little and secrete village with authentic culture, religion and nature. Biking in and Pokhara valley is not just about being on the saddle rather hearing lots to story of the people their culture and lifestyle are the best part of the biking in Nepal. – Nepal Mountain Bike

The Annapurna Circuit Bike Marsyangdi Valley (Eastern Annapurnas) + Kali Gandaki (Western Annapurnas)
Only the most committed mountain bikers take on the full, trekking-style Annapurna Circuit, carrying their bikes across the high pass of the Thorung La. Some tour companies offer the option of plane, bus and mule transport to the top, followed by an incredible downhill, but it’s expensive. If the complete circuit is beyond most people’s reach, it’s increasingly possible to follow either of its arms upwards, then turn around and descend the same way. The eastern side is the more popular. Attractive roads lead to Besisahar, from where you can now cycle up the Marsyangdi Valley all the way to Manang – though you may find yourself carrying your bike for up to a quarter of the ascent. The trip from Pokhara to Manang usually takes 7–10 days. The western side of the circuit is less varied, at first, though new roads being built will soon offer the possibility of a cut-through from Birethanti to Tatopani, via Ghorepani. Currently, however, it’s 90km from Pokhara to Beni, and then a fairly relentless climb along the mostly unpaved 80km road up the Kali Gandaki from Beni to Jomosom. Above Jomosom, dusty, Tibetan-style and relatively flat roads beckon on towards Muktinath (and, with a special permit, Upper Mustang).

No special bike permits are needed for the Annapurna Circuit, but if you are entering the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP) you will need a TIMS card and park entry ticket, just as trekkers do.

The Seti Nadi
Unpaved roads head downstream along the churning Seti Nadi, with dramatic overlooks of the canyon and views of the mountains. The road on the south side of the canyon goes on for many easy, downhill miles, and leads to some more remote trails further to the southeast. One good loop from Pokhara follows a trail south from the main road to Chhorepatan, stopping just short of Kristi Nachana Chaur, then turns east to Nirmal Pokhari; from here, you descend to the Seti, crossing at Dobila, below the huge Fulbari Resort – from where it’s a relatively gentle ride up the Seti towards Lakeside.

Cycling to the Terai | Chitwan, Lumbini & the Mahendra Highway
The easiest route to the Terai is along the Prithvi Highway to Mugling and then south from there to Narayangadh, which is only a short hop from Chitwan National Park. It does get heavy traffic, but is mostly downhill and you can pedal it in a day.

A more adventurous and strenuous route follows the winding, scenic Siddhartha Highway southwards to Butwal, via Tansen. This ride requires some long stints in the saddle and several overnight stops. It’s a fast downhill ride from Tansen to Butwal, and from there it’s a flat and easy couple of hours to the Buddha’s birthplace, Lumbini. An even more adventurous option would be to head west of Pokhara to Baglung, and from there follow the incredible, switchbacking Tamghas Highway south – either looping round southeastwards via Ridi Bazaar to Tansen (it’s 80km from Tamghas to Tansen via Ridi), or continuing south and west from Tamghas via Sandhikarka, on 90km of rough roads, joining the Mahendra Highway at Gorusinge, 48km west of Butwal (and some 10km north of the Buddhist archeological site of Kapilvastu). West of Butwal, the Mahendra Highway leads through a beautiful dun valley towards the relatively undeveloped far west, the traffic lightening as you go.

Excerpts from Nepal Mountain Bike & ROUGH GUIDES

More Cycling Options
Annapurna Foothills
Gorkha
Maleku
Kakani, Pharping, Kot Danda & Kathmandu Valley Rim

2024 Dates (Christmas & New Year’s Trip)
18 Dec – 5 Jan
19 Days

2024 Trip Price
$4280

+ Discounted Price for Groups!
+ Single Supplement (Entire Trip) – $225 & 275
+ Upgrade Single Supplement (Entire Trip) – $350 & $395
+ Upgrade Double Room Supplement (Entire Trip) – $175

Upgrades & Single Supplements (Upgraded Hotels)
To keep the trip affordable, we recommend staying at these wonderful hotels, but have the option to stay elsewhere. 
+ The Fort Resort – $50 Single + $30/Per Person Double
+ Prakriti Resort Shivapuri – $50 Single + $30/Per Person Double
+ Begnas Tal Resort Lakeview Upgrade – $30 Single + $20/Per Person Double
+ Hotel Srinagar Tansen – $35 Single + $20/Per Person Double

2025 Dates
15 Feb – 7 March
21 Days

15 Feb – 2 March (Short Tour)
16 Days

Trip Price
$4580 (21 Days)
$4280 (19 Days)
$3880 (16 Days)

+ Custom Departures Available
+ Discounted Price for Groups!
+ Single Supplement (Entire Trip) – $225 & 275
+ Upgrade Single Supplement (Entire Trip) – $350 & $395
+ Upgrade Double Room Supplement (Entire Trip) – $175

Upgrades & Single Supplements (Upgraded Hotels)
To keep the trip affordable, we recommend staying at these wonderful hotels, but have the option to stay elsewhere. 
+ The Fort Resort – $50 Single + $30/Per Person Double
+ Prakriti Resort Shivapuri – $50 Single + $30/Per Person Double
+ Begnas Tal Resort Lakeview Upgrade – $30 Single + $20/Per Person Double
+ Hotel Srinagar Tansen – $35 Single + $20/Per Person Double

Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades 
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

MTB & e-Bike Rental in Kathmandu
Mountain bikes & e-bikes available to rent in Kathmandu for approximate $25-50 per day, depending on the type of bike you prefer.

Includes

• Kathmandu Guest House & Nepal Boutique Hotels (Upgrades Apply)
• Personalized Kathmandu Valley Bicycle Sightseeing with Kim & Lhakpa
• Back-Up Cycling Vehicle(s)
• All Regional Permits
• Airport Pick-Ups & Drops
• Kamzang Journeys Boutique Bicycle Trips
  Single Northface tents (2+3 person tents), delicious, plentiful meals with seasonal, fresh produce, French Press organic coffee, Indian Chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, trek library of books, full medical kit, our Kamzang ‘lounge’ tent with Indian cotten rugs, Crazy Creek camp chairs, blankets + occasional music in the evenings. For support, our caravan of horses + mules, Western, Sherpa + local guides and our 5-Star Kamzang Journeys team. Highlight is our signature yellow Kamzang dining tent’. NO single supplement for single tents. AND flexibility, experience, adventure,  safety, challenge + fun!

Excludes

• International Flights
• Travel or Travel Medical Insurance
• Bicycle Rental
• Nepal Visa
• Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu
• Rescue Service (Cost)
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol & Soft Drinks
• Laundry
• Tips

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $250-300 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

TripAdvisor Reviews!

Client Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments

Cycling Trip Highlights

• Kathmandu Valley Cycling & World Heritage Sightseeing by Bicycle
• Beautiful Kathmandu Rim Cycling
• Trail Riding in Shivapuri National Park
• Namo Buddha Monastery & the Cultural Middle Hills of Nepal
• Spectacular Himalayan Panoramas from Nagarkot, Sarankot, Ghale Gaun, Tansen, Ghale Gaon
• Misty Himalayan Vistas from Gorkha, Gorkha Gaun & Historic Gorkha Fort
• Scenic Begnas Tal & Phewa Lakes
• Relaxing & Exploring Pokhara
• Hilltop Thansen
• The Tharu Villages of Chitwan
• Wildlife Safaris in Chitwan National Park
• Diverse Mountain & Riverside Cycling in Central Nepal
• Cycling the Diverse Hindu & Buddhist Regions of Nepal

Himalaya Bicycle Trip Photos
Cycle the Himalaya

Kim Bannister Photography | Trek & Travel Photos
Himalayan Trip Photos

Kamzang Journeys Menus
Camp Menus

Clients’ Highlights & Comments
A wonderful bicycle tour of Ladakh & Zanskar, the Indian Himalaya!
Cycle-eat-relax-repeat. I had met Kim Bannister & Lhakpa Dorji previously, but this was my first trip with them as formal leaders. Kim & Lhakpa have all of the logistics for fun and relaxing Ladakh travel completely dialed in. The itinerary was challenging but not overly so, with the flexibility to ride in the support vehicle completely open at any time. Very importantly, our two drivers were 100% calm and safe. Cycling ranged from 4 – 8 hours a day. The team uses cell phones and radios for communications to coordinate camps and timing. Each cyclist also has a personal radio for potential emergency use, but in reality, even though we had some tough days, there were zero emergencies. Camp is set up and struck efficiently by the crew. Snacks and hot and cold drinks await on arrival in the afternoon, with large, comfy personal tents set up in nice locations and your personal gear stashed inside. It has been said an army marches on its stomach, and for any trip of this sort, the food is of paramount importance. Junar and the rest of the crew never failed to impress with tasty, copious and varied food choices, including melons, momos, salads, and a birthday cake!
– David K (USA), Ladakh Sky Kingdoms Ladakh Cycling Journey 2019

Excellent! Most challenging but very good, and everything was well organized, so no complains. I would recommend this trip to anyone who is interested in a bit of cycling adventure!
– Herb B (Australia), The Great Nepal Bicycle Journey 2022

From Lhasa to Kathmandu – Cycling across the Tibetan Plateau!
I can only highly (once more, highly) recommend Kamzang Journeys. Absolutely top notch experience, when it comes to exploring the remote Himalayas, by either hiking or biking. This time, we have cycled across the Tibetan Plateau for about 1000 kms. Stunning. Magnificent. Mesmerizing. Adventurous. And safe. Superb logistics, organization and team (really!). Deep insights into the Tibetan culture from a beautiful soul who has been living the Himalayan spirit for nearly 20 years. Kamzang Journeys will make your experience an unforgettable memory. Kim & Lhakpa are knowledgeable (this is an understatement), are passionate about the region, its people and their culture & traditions. Food is truly beyond expectations, camp sites always stunning & relaxing, and Kim & her Team will go the extra mile to secure your safety. Full disclosure: over the past 11 years or so, I have repeatedly returned to Kamzang Journeys for the joy of experiencing the Himalayan region, with authenticity & simplicity, as most of their customers do. (and this is a testimony of the quality & the love of their ‘services’). Kamzang Journeys: you rock!
– Laurence V (France), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

Lhasa to Kathmandu Bicycle Trip. A difficult trip to organize went wonderfully with Kamzang Journeys. Fantastic food. Great people. Don’t know how it could have been better!
– Grant E (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

The experience I had when I cycled with Kamzang Journeys was incredible. The team, as well as the guides, were fantastic and extremely helpful. Kim made you feel very safe and comfortable and had great knowledge, and the sights, characters and the culture were a dream. Definitely worth it and I will definitely go again.
– Nita B (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip!
When I first searched online for a Nepal trekking guide in 2006, I found Kim Bannister. I was most impressed by the fact that the person leading my trek was the one answering my emails and that she evidenced a commitment to an environmental ethic and to treating her staff (and, when relevant, the pack animals) with respect and fairness. Not one other company mentioned any kind of valued ethic, let alone provided a personal response. Back then I was inquiring about a trek to the Everest Region, a bucket list dream of mine. Though I have since made that journey with Kim, I did not go in 2006, because Kim provided the honest insight that summer was not a good time to go to the that region due to the monsoon and suggested Ladakh instead.

Though I was sure Everest was the only place I wanted to go, I jumped at the alternative adventure, already trusting Kim’s expertise and knowing that I was to be led by a capable, reasoned guide. I have since trekked with Kim to Dolpo, Everest High Passes, and just returned from the cycling trek with Kim from Lhasa to Kathmandu. In 2007 Kim also set up a Tibet jeep trip for me and has connected me to contacts in India. I trust Kim implicitly. Every place one might travel in the entire Himalayan region — Nepal, India, China, Bhutan — is, by its nature, wildly unpredictable, from the weather, to closed borders, cancelled flights, lost luggage, runaway animals, altitude sickness, and beyond. Kim manages such fluidness with impressive agility, resource, and calm. We have shared quite a few wonderful stories, laughs, amazing food, and our share of beer over these adventures. As myself an experienced outdoor educator and leader, risk management consultant, and now attorney, my 2006 bet with Kim has paid off exquisitely. Stop looking now — you have found the best.
– Anne M (USA), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

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