The Great Eastern Nepal to Ilam Middle Hills Bicycle (MTB) Journey 
Nepal Himalayan Cycling Trips

The Great Nepal Middle Hills & Himalayan Cycling (MTB) Journey – Nepal Himalayan Bicycle Trip
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House | Bike Rental & Assembly 
Welcome to Nepal! You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it.
Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks …

Those who need to rent bikes will go to Himalayan Single Track just nearby in Thamel (right in back of KGH) to get fitted for rental bikes, and then take the bikes out on a short spin around the back streets of Kathmandu to check them out. You’ll have the rest of the afternoon to do some sightseeing in Kathmandu on foot or by bike. (B)

Day 2 – Kathmandu | Assemble Bikes & Optional Day Bike Ride 
Morning meeting at 9 AM in the back garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to collect passports, insurance information, and photos, and go over some of our bike details and logistics. If you’re ready to get on your bike and explore the Kathmandu valley, we have many excursions available. 

The day is free to explore Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley, shop, wander Thamel’s interesting streets, visit the spa, have a massage, or just read a book in the lovely Kathmandu Guest House gardens. We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath  
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Extra Day Trip – Bike Changu Narayan & Nagarkot  
Beginning from the Kathmandu Guest House, we cycle some interesting back roads to Mulpani past Boudhanath, and northwest towards the hill village of Nagarkot, one of the valley’s most beautiful rides. We cycle past terraced rice paddies, on dirt trails through lush wooded hillsides, and bike past many traditional and historic villages en route to Nagarkot. We’ll cycle via Changu Narayan, an ancient Hindu Vishnu temple complex, one of the oldest in Nepal. “A Kashmiri king is said to have given his daughter, Champak, in marriage to the prince of Bhaktapur.”

“The Legend of Changu Narayan | In ancient times a gwala or cow herder, bought a cow from a Brahmin named Sudarshan. The cow was known for producing large quantities of milk and t cow herder used to take the cow to Changu for grazing. At that time Changu was a forest of Champak trees. While grazing, the cow always went to the shade of a particular tree and a boy used to come there and drink the cow’s milk. In the evening, when the cow herder took the cow home and started milking her, he got only a very small amount of milk. This continued for several days. He grew very sad, so he called on the Brahmin saying the cow was not giving enough milk. After observing this, Sudarshan agreed with the cow herder. The next day they observed the cow’s daytime activity while she was grazing in the forest.

Brahmin and cow herder both hid behind the tree. To their surprise, a small black boy came out of the tree and started drinking the cow’s milk. The two men were furious because they thought the boy must be the devil and tree must be its home. So the Brahmin cut down the champak tree. When he was cutting it down, fresh human blood came out of the tree. Both Brahmin and cow herder got worried, believing they had committed a great crime and began to cry. Lord Vishnu emerged from the tree and told the Brahmin and Cowherd it was not their fault. Vishnu told the story of how he had committed a heinous crime by unwittingly killing Sudarshan’s father while hunting in the forest. After that, cursed for the crime, he wandered the earth on his mount, ‘Garuda’, eventually descending on the hill at Changu. There he lived in anonymity, surviving on milk stolen from a cow. When the Brahmin cut down the tree, Vishnu was beheaded, which freed Lord Vishnu from his sins. After hearing these words from Vishnu, the Brahmin and the cow herder resolved to worship the place and established a small temple in the name of Lord Vishnu. Ever since the site has been sacred. Even today, we find Sudarshan’s descendants as priests of the temple and the cow herder’s descendants as ghutiyars (conservators).” – Wikipedia. 

After looking around the complex and having a cup of tea, we take a paved, lovely, nicely graded country road all the way up to Nagarkot. On top of a Kathmandu Valley ridge, Nagarkot was an ancient Kathmandu valley fortress constructed to keep watch of the other small kingdoms around the valley. Later, it became the royal family’s summer retreat. The panorama includes the Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Jugal, Rolwaling, Everest and Numbur ranges, with views down to the Kathmandu valley and into Shivapuri National Park.
Distance 28.5km

Day 3 – Bike Namo Buddha  (43 km)
Our cycling trip begins in the lush, green and cultural Kathmandu Valley, where we cycle the back roads to historic Newari Bhaktapur, one of the ancient capitals of Nepal, and on Namo Buddha for our first night in the middle hills. We love cycling the Kathmandu Valley and valley rim roads, trails and jeep tracks, and have explored this incredibly scenic and diverse region for over 20 years. We have a beautiful middle hills cycling trip leaving Kathmandu, passing Pashupatinath Temple en route to Lhakpa’s Mulpani house, where we’ll stop for a cup of chai with his wife Doma and son Nuru before taking the back roads to Bhaktapur and on to Nala. We’ll have plenty of hills once we leave the bustling capital, and a bit of traffic after 9 or 10 am, but on the smaller roads we will avoid much of the congestions. We cross the highway at Banepa to reach historic Panauti, from where we cycle uphill along incredible scenic paved roads to reach the beautiful Tibetan Buddhist monastery of Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery and the Namo Buddha complex, founded by V.V. Khenchen Thrangu Rinpoche in 1978, situated in the most incredible setting on the eastern Kathmandu Valley rim. We have the afternoon to explore Namo Buddha, and sit in on some pujas in the evening and perhaps the next morning …  (B, L, D)
Distance: 43km

Namo Buddha
According to ancient legends, Prince Mahasatwo (Ngingdui Tshenpo) came to this spot at the top of the hill 6000 years ago. Looking into the jungle, he discovers a tigress lying near a rock and realizes she was about to die of hunger, with her five cubs trying to suckle milk from her. Mahasatwo decides to cut a piece of his own flesh to give to the mother tigress to save her life, and the lives of her cubs. The tigress accepts the sacrifice from the prince, and leaves only his bones when finishing eating. The prince’s bones were brought back in the village and buried inside the stupa of Namo Buddha. Approximately 3500 years later, the Gautam Buddha came in the village of Sange da Fyafulsa and made three circumambulations of the stupa before declaring that he was the reincarnation of prince Mahasatwo. Gautam Buddha renamed this spot Namo Buddha, which translates as ‘Homage to Buddha’.

Day 4 – Bike Mulkot 515m  (59 km)
After a balmy breakfast at Namo Buddha, we start cycling in a semi-tropical landscape, following the iconic Sun Khosi River, regarded as a ‘trans-border river basin’ as one of its two major sources is the large Bhote Khosi which comes from Tibet at the Zhangzangbo Glacier. The Indravati River meets the Sun Koshi River at Dolaghat, from where it flows eastwards through the valley formed by the Mahabharat Range and the Himalayas.

We’ll enjoy a great day of cycling on the beautiful, high road, biking past colorful villages, looking down on terraced vivid green rice and yellow mustard fields, on the road which eventually leads to Solu. Cycling high above the beautiful Sun Khosi River, we soon descend, crossed many intersecting rivers coming from the steep ravines above, and stop for lunch at balmy Mangaltar (670m), leaning our bicycles against the tall haystacks. After lunch, more biking through cultivated fields, rich with silty riverside dirt, we continue to follow the iconic Sun Khosi River passing curious water buffalo, and silk cotton trees with flaming orange flowers as we climbed up the last few hills to reach our hotel in Mulkot, where we might be cooled by an afternoon rain shower. The resort has a pool if you feel like a dip! (B, L, D)
Distance: 59 km

Day 5 – Bike Ghurmi (or Hilepani) (78 km) (++) (62.8 km)
Today we reach the newly constructed Middle Hills Highway, which spans the Himalayan foothills of Nepal from east to west! After breakfast, we set off cycling along a perfectly paved road following the Sun Khosi River, starting the balmy morning with a sweeping climb above the Sun Khosi river to a Hindu shrine and an associated half kilometer of mirrors hung on the cement side of the road, an interesting sight. This short section of road, from Mulkot for the next approximately 10 km, is busy in the morning with traffic from Kathmandu, and doesn’t stop until we reach the turnoff separating the highway to India with our Middle Hills Highway road heading east to Ilam. The cycling continues with lots of hills and suspension bridges, cultivated fields, banana trees, a mix of Chhetri, Brahmin and Karki ethnic groups, bodhi (banyan) trees, bright yellow mustard and wheat fields as we cycle, kept company by the cows, goats and chickens along the road.

We reach Gwaltar after 32.5 km, and stop for a very average lunch at Khudule after another 12.5 km. We start on a few steep climbs above the Sun Khosi in the heat of the day after lunch, but finally get to enjoy the great downhill back to the river, and reach the hamlet of Khang Sang early afternoon. From here, we continue a bit less than 10 km to our hotel in Ghurmi, the only one in town. Ghurmi a small village which has become a storage stockpile for goods coming from India, and a gateway to various regions of Nepal.There is an option to continue to a nicer elevation at Hilepani on the Solu Phaplu road, but this is about 3 km out of the way, and a long uphill for the afternoon. (B, L, D)
Distance: 78 km

Day 6 – Bike Halesi Mahadevsthan 1450m  (45 km)
Cycling along the Nepal Himalaya’s Middle Hills Highway, we have a challenging biking day to reach Halesi, a major pilgrimage center for Buddhists, Hindus and Kirat (Rai) located in the Khotang District of eastern Nepal. We’re gaining a considerable amount of altitude, so although it’s not a long day, we’ll have plenty of challenge to reach our destination, with two steep and long ascents.

We begin with a steep ascent on a good, smaller country road to the Solu Phaplu turnoff, only to descend again on the equally steep, switchbacking road to the Dudh Khola intersection, and then once again ascending again steeply for about 15 km to reach Halesi (and the village of Mahadevasthan). Once in Halesi, we cycle towards the end of town and stay at Zambala Resort, looking up at thousands of multi-colored Buddhist prayer flags on the hillside. (B, L, D)
Distance: 45 km

Halesi Mahadevsthan
The Halesi Maratika cave complex and the Haleshi Mahadev temple are located next to the village of Mahadevasthan. The caves are called the Halesi Mahadev Temple by Hindus, who associate them with Mahadeva, an incarnation of Shiva. Hindus also believe that Lord Shiva hid from the demon Bhasmasur for 6000 years in these caves. Buddhists believe the caves to be an important meditation site of Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava), and the Kirati Rai worship Halesi as an ancestral deity of their ethnic group. “The Kirat mundhum, a rich oral tradition of the Kirats, manifests that their ancestor Raechhakule (Khokchilipa) also known as Hetchhakuppa, used to stay inside the Halesi cave, and for this reason, the Kirati Rai consider Halesi their ancestral place.” – Wikipedia
Distance: 45 km

Day 7 – Bike Diktel (Shubhadra Madan Foundation)1690m  (40.1 km)
We’ll spend a short time this morning visiting the lively sacred Halesi cave complex and the colorful Buddhist and Hindu temples, mingling with the hundreds of other pilgrims, both Buddhist, Hindu and Rai. Saffron-clad saddhus mixed with Buddhist monks in burgandy robes, and locals offered offerings of fruit, nuts and sweets in bright, recycled waste baskets while pujaris blessed the pilgrims, giving them bright red tikas.

Leaving Halesi on a spectacular, paved ridge-top road, we’ve have our first views of Himalayan peaks this morning (which we shared with a visiting Tibetan Buddhist monk from Lo Manthang, Upper Mustang on our exploratory trip).  The riding is idyllic, contouring on a wonderfully flat(ish) road for the first half hour, passing small traditional hamlets to reach Arkole after 10 km, where we’ll feast on organic tangerines and pick up some perfect tomatoes. Kim met Madan Rai, the founder of Shubhadra Madan Foundation, during our exploratory trip, and we stayed at this well-run guest house at end of the day. Cycling up a large, sweeping hill to Bijule, the Himalayan views are mind-blowing, always a good reason for a break! We’ll stop for a well-earned lunch at Mahure after about 18 km, and will reach Nunthala after another 5-6 km, another tidy village painted in pastels, beautiful with colorful pots of flowers.

We keep ascending to almost 2200m before finally enjoying the descent to Diktel, the district headquarters of Khotang, where we’ll spend some time wandering through the interesting Diktel Bazaar, another mixed ethnicity village where the locals specialized in weaving intricate baskets for fishing and other uses in the home. Finally a quick 1 km to reach our well-run and clean accommodation, run by students who were receiving an education in hospitality in the same complex as their school. They also run a great, and very popular, restaurant. (B, L, D)
Distance: 40 km

Day 8 – Bike Chakhewa (Gothe Singh Homestay) 2130m  (49.75 km) 
Leaving Diktel and the community-student run rooms and restaurant of the Shubhadra Madan Foundation, we contoure around the green, terraced valley on an incredibly somewhat flat road to Thapa Gaon, where we’ll enjoy a rest under Buddhist prayer flags with some Tamang villagers, with the scent of drying (fermenting) gundruk in the thin morning air. An hour later, we will be looking across the deep valley back at Diktel Bazaar …

Of course the big hills lie ahead, cycling through beautiful and neat Gurung and mixed ethnicity villages, vibrant with flower pots lining the decks. We’ll bike past curious Reusus monkeys on the sides of the road, and keep ascending to reach lower Chakhewa, stopping for a picnic lunch somewhere along the way. Rougher road lead to the pass separating Diktel and Bhojpur (1370m), and a sign leading to the Mundum trail. One more quick descent on a perfectly paved road and we reached our lovely, traditional Lion Kharka homestay in Chakhewa, also flower filled and a wonderful cultural experience. Our bright homestay in Chakhewa translates as ‘Lion Kharka’ (seasonal settlement) as the owner’s father was a man rich in livestock …
Distance: 49.8 km

Day 9 – Bike Bhojpur 1525m & Hongku Camp  (39.8 km ++)
A longer cycling day along the cultural Koshi Highway heading towards Bhojpur, in Bhojpur province, the traditional homeland of the Kirat Rais and the gateway to the Himalayan foothills region of Khotang. “The design and construction of the 240 km Koshi Highway in east Nepal between Dharan on the Terai Plain, and Num in the Middle Himalaya, commenced in the early 1970s and was completed in 2012 when the first vehicles were able to drive to Num. Construction of this highway links Bhjopur to other major cities and towns like Hile, Dhankuta and Dharan.” 

Starting the day with a long, paved (and chilly) downhill, followed by the inevitable, even longer uphill, we pass typical middle hills vignettes as we cycle. Woman loaded with leaves for fodder, sweeping bamboo arching over the roads, thatched bamboo mats, chickens, goats and cows, cardommom plants, colorful auto rickshaws, tangerines, haystacks, wood collecting, roadside tea huts and children heading for school. We reach the Bhojpur bazaar (marketplace) mid-day and stop for a plate of momos for lunch! Bhojpur is renown for its metalworkers and their crafts, especially khukuri knives and ‘karuwa’, or metal containers. There is an airport high above the town, and the locals include Kirat Rais, Chhetris, Bahuns, and Dalits. From Bhojpur, we’ll continue on for another 10 or 20 km to find a campsite somewhere near Hongku, as during our exploratory trip we took a different route to visit a colleague of John’s. (B, L, D)
Distance: 39.8 km ++

Day 10 – Bike Arun River & Tumlingtar 520m  (23.5 km ++)
Continuing our scenic middle hills cycling, we have a hilly ride today as we cycle towards Tumlingtar (with its mountain airport) and Khandbari (the district headquarters) in the Sankhuwasabha District of eastern Nepal. This mountainous region is the start of many Himalayan treks including our Wild Everest to Gokyo trek and the Kanchenjunga trek. 

Leaving for today’s cycle on a balmy middle hills morning, we’ll enjoy a cultural ride cycling on paved, country roads to the lively Dingla Bazaar, where we stopped to have a look around, and picked up some delicious fried snacks. We’ll then have a long, jarring and very dusty downhill (the road will soon be paved), the temperature rising as we descended slowly past traditional houses and cultivated fields for about 10 km to reach the Arun River! (This exact route might change in 2025, but we will reach the same spot on the Arun River). Our pick-up truck crossed on a tiny ferry while we had ramen soup, and then crossed a suspension bridge to climb for a very hot 2-3 km to reach Tumlingtar, where we’ve started and ended so many Himalayan treks over the past 2 decades … (B, L, D)
Distance: 23.5 km ++

Day 11 – Bike Chainpur (Hotel Santa Chaudary)1320m  (32.3 km)
Cycling through the bazaar on the old, unpaved road and leaving balmy Tumlingtar (520m), we enjoyed a wonderful misty middle hills morning ride on a flat(ish), paved rural road for the first few kilometers. We crossed the Sabha Khola River and ascended on a good, paved road, passing locals selling jaggary en route. We biked uphill, through traditional middle hills scenery, each house with their own small bee hive in an old log or wooden hive, and reached a tea stall at Lohatkot after about 2 hours of cycling (14 km). We continued on to lovely Kharang Bazaar, where local woman rolled paper for Nepali churot (local rolled tobacco) and dried turmeric and local beans, and finally stopped for lunch at a small teastall after just over 22 km of biking. Leaving Kharang, we reached forests of pine and evergreen as we cycled to the top of the hill on a perfectly paved road, and descended past local women leading their cows to reach historic Chainpur, a stop on the old Tibet Nepal trade routes …

Passing by the bus stop intersection with its colorful fruit and vegetable stalls, we biked through the long, hilly bazaar, still with traditional stalls selling their famous brass and copper ware. Finally at the top of the bazaar we checked into the lovely Hotel Santa Chautari, a fabulous middle hills Nepal cycling day!
Distance: 32.3 km

Day 12 – Chainpur (Hotel Santa Chaudary)
A free day in incredible Chainpur, an ancient trading bazaar in Nepal’s middle hills, renown for its ‘karuwa’, an ornate water jug adorned with artistic carvings, and for its brass and copper ware. And sublimely beautiful at sunset … Cycling journeys are soooo much more than just big (very big) hills! (B, L, D)

Tehrathum & Myanglung
“The word Tehrathum is constructed from thirteen (‘tehra’) and ‘thum’ (castle or fort). The town supposedly is the site of one of a series of guard posts once protecting the territory of the Limbus. Myanglung is onomatopoeic for the sound of a cat meowing and refers to an old tradition of a Hindu temple (still extant) in the town which had a resident cat. The ‘myang’ means cat and ‘lung’ means stone in Limbu (Kirat) language. The story is that the cat (myang) in ancient time, pawed the stone (lung) in anger. The stone still exists in Myanglung Bazaar at its gateway and is worshipped by the people entering the bazaar. In December 2002 the bazaar of Myanglung was hit by fire, 211 families were affected when 85 shops were gutted.” – Wikipapia 

Day 13 – Bike Dharma Devi (Mamling) & Drive Basantapur (Yak Lodge) 2290m (30 km)
Leaving Chainpur through the bazaar, we enjoyed a warm and scenic cycling morning, passing back through the long fruit and vegetable bazaar. We cycled along an unpaved, eventually paved road lined with lovely, arching bamboos for about 2 km, descending gradually for another 13 km to a bridge at 550m. We climbed for 5 km to reach the teashop at Jogidada (975m), reaching the purple shop of lower Mamling at noon. Another 2 km of gradual ascent to reach our lunch teashop in the main part of Mamling (1420m), 26.5 km from Chainpur, now well into Limbu country as apparent by the town’s statue of a female goddess protected by two male protectors. (If anyone knows more about this, would love to know)

Fortified, we cycle past thatched goat feeders (brilliant) on a partially paved road, biking by small hamlets, a continuous but again gradual climb to reach our stopping point at Dharma Devi (1650m) 3.5 km further on. From here, we wanted to make it to Basanapur so jumped into the jeep to reach Mudhe Sanischare (2190m) (6 km further), and finally the chilly Mudhe Basantapur Pass (2490m). From here, we contoured and descended a bit in the jeep to Deurali (2505m) and finally reached the interesting bazaars of Basantapur.

As we head east, we cycle further into Limbu country, mixed with Gurung, Tamang, Rai, Brahmin and other castes, an incredibly interesting mix of local inhabitants in this old trading bazaar. We’ll check into the wonderful Tibetan-owned (Olangchun Gola) Yak Hotel, and head out for a (probably chilly) walk in the bazaar, where we can buy some unique rhododendron juice! The still traditional Basantapur, a chilly hill-station like bazaar where we found some delicious bright red rhododendron juice for the rest of the trip. Basantapur is an old crossroads for trading between Nepal and Tibet, with ancient trails leading north to the Kanchenjunga region and elsewhere in the higher Himalayan border regions of Nepal.

We’ll return to the Yak Hotel for tongba (millet beer, served hot in a bamboo container), special khokay momos and thukpa around a wood-burning stove, a perfect Himalayan ending to a wonderful cycling day! (B, L, D)
Distance: 30 km 
Distance Driving: 25 km

Day 14 – Bike Panchhami Camp 1460m  (64 km)
Wow, this was an eventful, cultural, fabulously scenic and challenging day of cycling Nepal’s steep and long middle hills! Leaving Basantapur, we cycled for a few flat kilometers on a perfectly paved road, passing villages such as Rato Pati (red mat. shoulders, or …) after 5 km, Lasoon (garlic) after another 5 km, and Jiri (photo with auto and Nepali signboard, another story) – many of these villages with statues! We started on a great, sweeping downhill ride, and stopped to chat with some lovely Limbu women who had just dropped their loads of vegetables at Jiri Bazaar, admiring their ornate, gold ‘bulaki’, or nose ring in Limbu language.

We cruise downhill to Myanglung (stone cat, another Limbu folklore story) an additional 16 km later. We’re now fully immersed in traditional Limbu lands, with drying haystacks, pigs, cows and contouring terraced fields and rice paddies, banana trees and men in traditional garments carrying their khukuri knives, women with their ornate gold jewelry and shawls wrapped atop their heads, stalks of tender, green bamboo, water spouts, and traditional homes, a soft, lovely landscape.

We’ll stop for chai and chana pea chaat patti (Nepali & Indian snacks, made to order, Binod’s favorite) at Halimela (again, a story behind this name: the festival before the plowing of the fields for the spring & summer crops). Soon afterwards our downhill ended at a tributary river, and we cycled up a now dusty road (road making disasters), eventually stopping for lunch at a small teashop. The father of this family (from Jiri) explained how dhaka was also a speciality of this region, Therathum. We had thought it was just made in the Tansen area.

We continue to ascend on a better, paved road (but a long, challenging and continuous climb later in the afternoon) to Aushi Danda (1795m), where Lhakpa & Kim started looking for places to sleep or camp during our exploratory trip, our choices limited. We checked out Man Maya Tamang’s cute site but continued on to find John (then in the jeep) and Binod, and couldn’t return because of the massive, muddy roadwork for the next 6 or 7 km. Finally, we reach a little shop that allow us to put up our tents, and Lhakpa & Yam will get to work preparing us homemade, delicious pumpkin soup, snacks and pasta, and the store owner will stock up on beer.

This family (Indira Ojha and Ishibu) deserves a separate post; we had a long conversation with the extended family the next morning (and left quite late), discovering their interesting history!
Distance: 64 km

Day 15 – Bike Tamor River Camp 420m  (50 km)
Another epic Nepal middle hills cycling day, starting with a big (700m, 11 km) descent to the river at 800m, cycling on a paved road lined with banana and papaya trees, traditional Limbu villages, cows and chickens, men heading to a funeral and another Limbu statue. We passed Purano Goan (old village) and an unusual double stupa (which could be a possible campsite (1315m, 18 km past our campsite) to reach Danda Gaon at 1455m, another 700 m and 2 hours of ascent.
We had a late lunch at Sokrati Gaon (2050m), and then a long, epic downhill through sublimely beautiful landscapes with pastel colored houses and local Limbu weaving bamboo mats. The descent was steep and fun, then undulating, and finally steep again (with a bit of sketchy truck traffic at blind corners) until we reach the bridge over the Tamor River! The last two thirds of the descent was all steep, as we passed through a beautiful village with a college campus, decorated with bright yellow flowers …

We camped at a fish restaurant just past the bridge, out in the fields, and had yet another dal baht as they ran out of fish! A quick dip in the Tamor River before dinner was wonderful, in this lovely, warm setting! The lovely Therathum family we camped with on the 10th day of our cycling trip; we met most of the female and many of the younger members of the family the next morning. Grandmother was feeding an incredibly nutritious ‘tsampa’ (Nepali: sattu) of barley, wheat, corn, peas, rice, soybeans and buckwheat to her grandson.

The parents showed us their wedding photo in black and white (we’ll try to digitally restore it), told us all about their married children (life isn’t easy) and grandchildren. Their youngest daughter lost her husband to a heart attack in his early 40s (maybe late 30s), just married with the son pictured crying in the post. She’s now working at a tailor’s shop in a nearby city. The other women is her daughter-in-law, and then some other granddaughters …
Distance; 50 km

Day 16 – Bike Lali Kharka (Hotel Lali Siwahang Resort) 2090m (27.25 km)
Our biggest climb of the trip from 420m to 2090m, though the kilometers were short. We woke to a beautiful misty morning in our tents on the banks of the Tamor River, and walked to the restaurant to make coffee and breakfast. We had the incredible privilege of meeting Dr Sanduk Ruit upstairs at the restaurant, on his way back to Kathmandu after an eye camp around Taplejung. After breakfast, the climbing began right away, and we had about an hour of constant ascent on well-graded switchbacks, cycling through forests before a tea stop at the hamlet of Shantipur 10 km up the hill. 3 km later we reached the large town of Phidim, where we stocked up on bananas and oranges. At the intersection, we headed to the right, and looked back to see how large this town had grown, with its own timber plant as well.

We cycled through a big of light rain, still ascending, and eventually reached Jorshal (995m) and its own statue, and soon after stopped for lunch at a small teahouse just before the hotel at Lali Kharka. There are lots of homestays in Lali Kharka, popular with Nepalis who come and see the Himalayan views featuring Kanchenjunga and Jannu. Our hotel was situated on the only flat section of the ride, and we were happy to get off our bikes, have a hot shower, a cold beer and the pasta and carrot soup that Lhakpa prepared for us! (B, L, D)
Distance: 27.25 km

Day 17 – Bike Ilam (Nepal Village Homestay) 1515m (51.5 km)
We woke to views of Himalayan peaks as we cycled, with the majestic Kanchenjunga and Jannu dominating the skyline to the north for the entire morning. Leaving our hotel at Lali Kharka, we cycled past a small hamlet involved in drying the local Nepali paper made from forest leaves, boiled, pulped and dried on screens along the road (we passed the plants laster). We stopped for photos of these hard-earned mountain views several times by lovely houses with bamboo fences and colorful flower gardens in the foreground. After 9 km we reached Pawa Bangjyang Zomsa Hotel, our highest point at 2525m, and stopped for a tea break at the lodge (which will be great in the coming years with its newly constructed attached rooms), enjoying the massive Himalayan panorama. The views extended all the way to Everest in the east!

From Pawa Bangjyang, dressed in our thermal layers, the epic downhill began! We passed the vivid, green plants with clusters of small white flowers used to make the Nepali paper, and long, reflective bamboo ‘grass’ (or dwarf bamboo?), as we enjoyed the great descent on the good, paved road, a smaller country road, with a bit of undulation along the way. We passed a large school where kids in the lower classes were studying outside in the sun before reaching the lively Ranke Bazaar (2150m), where the presentations of dried cheese that would find for the rest of the trip began.

We continued to descend, and cruised along more undulating roads as we finally reached the start of the beautiful tea plantations of eastern Nepal! After lunch at a small teahouse, we had another long descent to the Puwa Khola river (1220m) which we crossed before our last, seemingly endless but very cultural ascent to our Ilam homestay amongst tea gardens and coffee plantations! Off our bikes, we enjoyed our first pot of Ilam tea, a wonderful high altitude Ilam tea, with Narendra, the homestay and small plantation owner, on the lawn overlooking the upcoming river valley far below … (B, L, D)
Distance: 51.5 km

Extra Day – Ilam | Tea & Coffee Plantation Tour & Bike to Ilam for Momos! (16.5 km)
A rest day to visit the tea and coffee plantations (with red and yellow coffee beans) of Ilam on foot. Ilam teas make up the bulk of teas sold by the neighboring Darjeeling region, and the Ilam black teas have similar characteristics to black Darjeeling tea, medium-bodied with a sweet finish. We also have time to get some laundry done, give our weary bodies a break and perhaps have a ride (or drive) to Ilam Bazaar for some of the best buff, chicken and veg momos we’ve had on the trip, and to purchase some Ilam teas! Ilam is about 200m below our tea plantation homestay, an easy ride down and a bit of an uphill to get back. There is a view tower above the bazaar.

The district of Ilam is known for its endless vistas of sloping tea plantations, landscapes textured by mountain streams, subtropical forests, dense woods and pines, fir and evergreens, with holy sites and unique cultures, with the Limbu being the dominant ethnic group (Lionel Kaplan did research on the Limbu population of the Ilam region having spent many years living in Ilam, research you can find online). (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.25 km each way

Ilam
“Elevations in the Ilam district range between 140m to 3636m. Ilam is sometimes called Charkhol (area of four rivers) because of the four main rivers – the Jogmai, Puwamai, Mai, and Deaumai in the district. Ilam is one of the richest districts in Nepal when it comes to cultural diversity, natural landscape, and a flourishing cash crop industry. Potato, cardamom, ginger, red round chilly, milk, and broom grass are the major cash crops, with tea being the biggest industry. Scholars visit Ilam for botanical and anthropological research. Lepchas were once the predominant ethnic group in this region. A Lepcha museum is being built at Antu and there are plans to make it extensive. Ilam reflects the rich social and cultural heritage of people living in harmony. The major ethnic groups living in Ilam are Brahmins and Chettris, Magars, Gurungs, Rais, Limbus, and Sherpas. Most of the land is covered in tea bushes and the tea industry is growing at a rapid pace with exports reaching many countries in Europe and the U.S.” – Nepal Government Ilam Website

Day Ride Options
A beautiful day ride for an extra day in Ilam includes riding to the small, fish-filled Mai Pokhari, or a circuit to Todke Falls, Mai Majhuwa, Jamuna and back to the Ilam homestay. (From friend Aakash)

Day 18 – Bike Fikkal & Kanyam  (47.5 km)
Passing back towards Ilam Bazaar, we head left just before entering the market place and benin our incredibly long and beautiful 18.5 km descent to Mai Khola (470m), which we cross on a long suspension bridge. Take a minute to change clothes, as we begin our long, switchbacking ascent right from river level, and it will be hot from that low altitude. We’ll reach the village of Godak (840m) less than 2 hours from leaving our Ilam homestay, and then finally Jaubari Bazaar (1415m) for lunch another 3 hours later. But before we stop for lunch, we have to negotiate the 12 bends in the road!

After a much-needed lunch break in Jaubari, we cycle to a high point at 1730m, and then reach Fikkal (1565m) (and its signboard), another tea plantation, after 43.5 km, and then after another 4 km we reach our beautiful hotel in Kanyam, Hotel Easton Blue. (B, L, D)

Day 19 – Kanyam | Tea Plantation Ride 
A free day to enjoy some great cycling amongst Kanyam’s tea plantations, with time to either visit a tea plantation or (if it’s Thursday and the tea plantations are closed), the fascinating and photogenic weekly market at Fikkal. (B, L, D)

Day 20 – Bike Bhadrapur 300m & Fly Kathmandu | Transfer KGH  (48.3 km)
Our last day of idyllic eastern Nepal cycling to reach our destination at Bhadrapur in the Terai (lower regions) of Nepal, not far from the border of India. Leaving Kanyam, we cycle slightly uphill to the Kanyam viewpoint and signboard, and then begin our long, sweeping descent on a good paved road down to the terai, always hot, steamy and chock-a-block with Hindu culture, color, scents, temples and street food. After an hour of epic downhill (approx 25 km from Kanyam), we reach a large tea plantation (295m) where we’ll stop for a change of clothes, and then will continue on for a few more balmy kilometers before we reach a good coffee shop where (if we have time) we might stop for a short break. The last 20 km of our bicycle journey is along a flat, rural road lined with rice paddies and traditional Terai bamboo huts, and alive with singing birds.

The Terai is always lots of fun to photograph and explore, and the perfect place to end our bicycle journey from central to far-eastern Nepal! We cycle right to Bhadrapur Airport where we have a short late morning or early afternoon flight back to Kathmandu. Once back to our lovely rooms at the Kathmandu Guest House, we have the rest of the afternoon to pack our bikes before heading out to dinner. (B)
Distance: 48.3 km

CYCLE NOTE | Our bikes come overland to Kathmandu, so you’ll want to schedule an extra day in Kathmandu to receive your bike if you’ve brought your own. If you’ve rented a bicycle, we can return it for you.

Day 21 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA
We drop you at the airport for your international flight. Thanks for joining us for our epic bike journey from Pokhara to Kathmandu. Namaste! (B)

Extra Days Kathmandu
Lots to do in endlessly fascinating Kathmandu, with options to cycle the Kathmandu valley, to do any World Heritage Sightseeing that you missed before our Nepal bike trip, and to pack up your bike (or return your rental bike) for the return flight home. 

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

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Bike Phungling & Taplejung 2420m
Extra cycling days uphill (way uphill) from Phidim to Taplejung (also in the Koshi Province, in a municipality renamed as Phungling). The Himalayan region is renown for being the start of the Kanchenjunga trek (part of the Kanchenjunga Concervation Area), with Taplejung (Suketar) Airport nearby, divided by many glacial-fed rivers and lakes. The world’s third highest peak Kanchenjunga (8586m) is located in this mountainous region, which is divided by the large Tamor River. 

“Taplejung, in Limbu language, means ‘fort of King Taple’ as in medieval times, a fort built by King Taple stood in the area. Before the unification of Nepal, the area of Taplejung and its surrounds were called Pallo Kirat Limbuwan which means ‘far region’, and was ruled by the Limbu kings of Limbuwan. After the unification of Nepal, the area of Taplejung became a part of the large Dhankuta District, and later in 1962 when the traditional old 32 districts divided into 75, the three thums (counties) of the large Dhankuta district separately established a new district named Taplejung.” – Wikipedia (B, L, D)

2024 Dates (Christmas Trip)
18 Dec – 5 Jan
19 Days

24 Price (Christmas Trip)
$4680

2025 Dates
15 Feb – 7 March
21 Days

Trip Price
$4980

+ Custom Departures Available
+ Discounted Price for Groups!
+ Single Supplement (Entire Trip) – $275 & 375

Hotel & Lodge Upgrades
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

Upgrades & Single Supplements (Upgraded Hotels)
To keep the trip affordable, we recommend staying at these wonderful hotels, but have the option to stay elsewhere. 
+ The Fort Resort – $50 Single + $30/Per Person Double
+ Prakriti Resort Shivapuri – $50 Single + $30/Per Person Double
+ Begnas Tal Resort Lakeview Upgrade – $30 Single + $20/Per Person Double
+ Hotel Srinagar Tansen – $35 Single + $20/Per Person Double

MTB & e-Bike Rental in Kathmandu
Mountain bikes & e-bikes available to rent in Kathmandu for approximate $25-50 per day, depending on the type of bike you prefer.

Includes

• Kathmandu Guest House & Nepal Boutique Hotels (Upgrades Apply)
• Personalized Kathmandu Valley Bicycle Sightseeing with Kim & Lhakpa
• Back-Up Cycling Vehicle(s)
• All Regional Permits
• Airport Pick-Ups & Drops
• Kamzang Journeys Boutique Bicycle Trips
  Single Northface tents (2+3 person tents), delicious, plentiful meals with seasonal, fresh produce, French Press organic coffee, Indian Chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, trek library of books, full medical kit, our Kamzang ‘lounge’ tent with Indian cotten rugs, Crazy Creek camp chairs, blankets + occasional music in the evenings. For support, our caravan of horses + mules, Western, Sherpa + local guides and our 5-Star Kamzang Journeys team. Highlight is our signature yellow Kamzang dining tent’. NO single supplement for single tents. AND flexibility, experience, adventure,  safety, challenge + fun!

Excludes

• International Flights
• Travel or Travel Medical Insurance
• Bicycle Rental
• Nepal Visa
• Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu
• Rescue Service (Cost)
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol & Soft Drinks
• Laundry
• Tips

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $300 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

Panchase Trails
Mountain biking in Panchase hill is an amazing day and overnight trip that could be all mountain kind of ride through villages, forest, river suspension bridges and of ‘course the stunning views of Annapurna Himalaya range. Its perfect ride for someone who looking for challenging ride in physical and technical perspectives. Panchase top is a scenic place; it is believed that yoga Teacher (Patanjali Rishi Muni) got liberation and enlightenment here. In our case we will get definitely prove our physical and technical riding enlighten on our mountain biking. – Nepal Mountain Bike

Phewa Tal Loop
A shortish day’s circumnavigation of Phewa Tal is easily possible, heading out along the north shore and returning via Danda Kot and the World Peace Stupa – the last part takes you downhill along single tracks through the forest, coming out just west of Damside. This loop will take most people around five hours. A more adventurous, slightly longer option heads out across the face of the hillside underneath Sarangkot – but you’ll need a guide to find the mix of 4WD trails and single-track; the longer alternative would be to follow the Sarangkot ridge. To make a really full day-trip, you can extend the loop south of the Peace Stupa down the Seti Nadi.

Sarangkot Plus
The hilltop viewpoint of Sarangkot makes a great focus for an intermediate-level day-trip or overnight, and one that can be easily done without a guide. From the Bindyabasini temple in the bazaar, follow the paved road 8km westwards to Sarangkot town and lodges, where there’s a junction: the hilltop viewpoint is another 3km along to the right, while the left-hand fork leads towards Naudaada. The first 10km of the Naudaada road contours pleasantly along the south side of the ridge through forest, terraced farmland and villages; at Naudaada you can head back to Pokhara on the busy Baglung Highway. A shorter, but more demanding alternative is to break off the Naudaada road at the saddle of Deurali, then descend steeply on off-road tracks via Kaskiot to Pame, a couple of kilometers west of Pokhara along the lakeshore.

Begnas & Rupa Tal
A fine road, paved only in its earliest sections, follows a ridge between two beautiful lakes, Rupa Tal and Begnas Tal, and then westwards to Besisahar. A network of trails developing in this region can offer one or several days’ riding – enquire at Pokhara bike shops. A fairly tough, long day’s route, involving some carrying, is known as the Begnas Loop: it takes you east of Pokhara (from the Bhadrakali Mandir), along the ridge road past Tiger Mountain Resort to Kalikasthan and Tiwaridanda; from here it’s downhill, heading south on a rough road to Kotbari and Sundari Danda, then back on the partially paved road between Begnas and Rupa Tal. Heading east of Begnas Tal, it’s a 40km three-day rough-road trip through Bhorletar and Sundaari Bazaar on the way to the paved road at Besisahar; from there you could head on up the new road up the Marsyangdi valley (the eastern side of the Annapurna Circuit) or return to Pokhara (with a side trip to Bandipur).

Begnas Tal Kora
Mountain biking trails around the lake is awesome. Most of the people think that round the lake trails must be easy and flat along the lake which is not true. If you thinking to ride the Fewa Lake round get ready to challenge your own fitness as well as technical skills. The trails consist with Lake Valley, river bay, people walking single trails, challenging uphill, scenic amazing landscapes, Lake and Mountain View, entire Pokhara valley and technical and flowy downhill with rocks, roots, and stair cases through forest. It’s not a man-made bike park though the queen forest offer one of the best single trails that Pokhara valley has to offer. You can ride more mileage as there are plenty of optional to extend the ride. – Nepal Mountain Bike

Royal Trek, Begnas Lake & Kristi Village
Mountain biking on the Royal trek is definitely entirely fun time on your bike. This amazing place named after the Prince Charles did his trekking during early eighties since then trekking entrepreneur titled this route The Royal trek route. We have recently added value on this trails by riding mountain biking. It’s definitely seldom visited place by mountain bikers. The trail offers amazing landscapes criss- cross terraces, villages, Begnas and Rupa Lake, Madhi river valley, Annapurna ranges and natural bride over Seti River is an interesting site to see. This destination has unlimited amazing routes if you wish to extend Round the Rupa lake, Kristi village and Mattikhan to Pumdi Bhumdi village which is a little and secrete village with authentic culture, religion and nature. Biking in and Pokhara valley is not just about being on the saddle rather hearing lots to story of the people their culture and lifestyle are the best part of the biking in Nepal. – Nepal Mountain Bike

The Annapurna Circuit Bike Marsyangdi Valley (Eastern Annapurnas) + Kali Gandaki (Western Annapurnas)
Only the most committed mountain bikers take on the full, trekking-style Annapurna Circuit, carrying their bikes across the high pass of the Thorung La. Some tour companies offer the option of plane, bus and mule transport to the top, followed by an incredible downhill, but it’s expensive. If the complete circuit is beyond most people’s reach, it’s increasingly possible to follow either of its arms upwards, then turn around and descend the same way. The eastern side is the more popular. Attractive roads lead to Besisahar, from where you can now cycle up the Marsyangdi Valley all the way to Manang – though you may find yourself carrying your bike for up to a quarter of the ascent. The trip from Pokhara to Manang usually takes 7–10 days. The western side of the circuit is less varied, at first, though new roads being built will soon offer the possibility of a cut-through from Birethanti to Tatopani, via Ghorepani. Currently, however, it’s 90km from Pokhara to Beni, and then a fairly relentless climb along the mostly unpaved 80km road up the Kali Gandaki from Beni to Jomosom. Above Jomosom, dusty, Tibetan-style and relatively flat roads beckon on towards Muktinath (and, with a special permit, Upper Mustang).

No special bike permits are needed for the Annapurna Circuit, but if you are entering the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP) you will need a TIMS card and park entry ticket, just as trekkers do.

The Seti Nadi
Unpaved roads head downstream along the churning Seti Nadi, with dramatic overlooks of the canyon and views of the mountains. The road on the south side of the canyon goes on for many easy, downhill miles, and leads to some more remote trails further to the southeast. One good loop from Pokhara follows a trail south from the main road to Chhorepatan, stopping just short of Kristi Nachana Chaur, then turns east to Nirmal Pokhari; from here, you descend to the Seti, crossing at Dobila, below the huge Fulbari Resort – from where it’s a relatively gentle ride up the Seti towards Lakeside.

Cycling to the Terai | Chitwan, Lumbini & the Mahendra Highway
The easiest route to the Terai is along the Prithvi Highway to Mugling and then south from there to Narayangadh, which is only a short hop from Chitwan National Park. It does get heavy traffic, but is mostly downhill and you can pedal it in a day.

A more adventurous and strenuous route follows the winding, scenic Siddhartha Highway southwards to Butwal, via Tansen. This ride requires some long stints in the saddle and several overnight stops. It’s a fast downhill ride from Tansen to Butwal, and from there it’s a flat and easy couple of hours to the Buddha’s birthplace, Lumbini. An even more adventurous option would be to head west of Pokhara to Baglung, and from there follow the incredible, switchbacking Tamghas Highway south – either looping round southeastwards via Ridi Bazaar to Tansen (it’s 80km from Tamghas to Tansen via Ridi), or continuing south and west from Tamghas via Sandhikarka, on 90km of rough roads, joining the Mahendra Highway at Gorusinge, 48km west of Butwal (and some 10km north of the Buddhist archeological site of Kapilvastu). West of Butwal, the Mahendra Highway leads through a beautiful dun valley towards the relatively undeveloped far west, the traffic lightening as you go.

Excerpts from Nepal Mountain Bike & ROUGH GUIDES

More Cycling Options
Annapurna Foothills
Gorkha
Maleku
Kakani, Pharping, Kot Danda & Kathmandu Valley Rim

Cycling Trip Highlights

• Kathmandu Valley Cycling & World Heritage Sightseeing by Bicycle
• Beautiful Kathmandu Rim Cycling
• Trail Riding in Shivapuri National Park
• Namo Buddha Monastery & the Cultural Middle Hills of Nepal
• Spectacular Himalayan Panoramas from Nagarkot, Sarankot, Ghale Gaun, Tansen, Ghale Gaon
• Misty Himalayan Vistas from Gorkha, Gorkha Gaun & Historic Gorkha Fort
• Scenic Begnas Tal & Phewa Lakes
• Relaxing & Exploring Pokhara
• Hilltop Thansen
• The Tharu Villages of Chitwan
• Wildlife Safaris in Chitwan National Park
• Diverse Mountain & Riverside Cycling in Central Nepal
• Cycling the Diverse Hindu & Buddhist Regions of Nepal

Clients’ Trip Highlights & Reviews 
A wonderful bicycle tour of Ladakh & Zanskar, the Indian Himalaya!
Cycle-eat-relax-repeat. I had met Kim Bannister & Lhakpa Dorji previously, but this was my first trip with them as formal leaders. Kim & Lhakpa have all of the logistics for fun and relaxing Ladakh travel completely dialed in. The itinerary was challenging but not overly so, with the flexibility to ride in the support vehicle completely open at any time. Very importantly, our two drivers were 100% calm and safe. Cycling ranged from 4 – 8 hours a day. The team uses cell phones and radios for communications to coordinate camps and timing. Each cyclist also has a personal radio for potential emergency use, but in reality, even though we had some tough days, there were zero emergencies. Camp is set up and struck efficiently by the crew. Snacks and hot and cold drinks await on arrival in the afternoon, with large, comfy personal tents set up in nice locations and your personal gear stashed inside. It has been said an army marches on its stomach, and for any trip of this sort, the food is of paramount importance. Junar and the rest of the crew never failed to impress with tasty, copious and varied food choices, including melons, momos, salads, and a birthday cake!
– David K (USA), Ladakh Sky Kingdoms Ladakh Cycling Journey 2019

Excellent! Most challenging but very good, and everything was well organized, so no complains. I would recommend this trip to anyone who is interested in a bit of cycling adventure!
– Herb B (Australia), The Great Nepal Bicycle Journey 2022

From Lhasa to Kathmandu – Cycling across the Tibetan Plateau!
I can only highly (once more, highly) recommend Kamzang Journeys. Absolutely top notch experience, when it comes to exploring the remote Himalayas, by either hiking or biking. This time, we have cycled across the Tibetan Plateau for about 1000 kms. Stunning. Magnificent. Mesmerizing. Adventurous. And safe. Superb logistics, organization and team (really!). Deep insights into the Tibetan culture from a beautiful soul who has been living the Himalayan spirit for nearly 20 years. Kamzang Journeys will make your experience an unforgettable memory. Kim & Lhakpa are knowledgeable (this is an understatement), are passionate about the region, its people and their culture & traditions. Food is truly beyond expectations, camp sites always stunning & relaxing, and Kim & her Team will go the extra mile to secure your safety. Full disclosure: over the past 11 years or so, I have repeatedly returned to Kamzang Journeys for the joy of experiencing the Himalayan region, with authenticity & simplicity, as most of their customers do. (and this is a testimony of the quality & the love of their ‘services’). Kamzang Journeys: you rock!
– Laurence V (France), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

Lhasa to Kathmandu Bicycle Trip. A difficult trip to organize went wonderfully with Kamzang Journeys. Fantastic food. Great people. Don’t know how it could have been better!
– Grant E (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

The experience I had when I cycled with Kamzang Journeys was incredible. The team, as well as the guides, were fantastic and extremely helpful. Kim made you feel very safe and comfortable and had great knowledge, and the sights, characters and the culture were a dream. Definitely worth it and I will definitely go again.
– Nita B (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip!
When I first searched online for a Nepal trekking guide in 2006, I found Kim Bannister. I was most impressed by the fact that the person leading my trek was the one answering my emails and that she evidenced a commitment to an environmental ethic and to treating her staff (and, when relevant, the pack animals) with respect and fairness. Not one other company mentioned any kind of valued ethic, let alone provided a personal response. Back then I was inquiring about a trek to the Everest Region, a bucket list dream of mine. Though I have since made that journey with Kim, I did not go in 2006, because Kim provided the honest insight that summer was not a good time to go to the that region due to the monsoon and suggested Ladakh instead.

Though I was sure Everest was the only place I wanted to go, I jumped at the alternative adventure, already trusting Kim’s expertise and knowing that I was to be led by a capable, reasoned guide. I have since trekked with Kim to Dolpo, Everest High Passes, and just returned from the cycling trek with Kim from Lhasa to Kathmandu. In 2007 Kim also set up a Tibet jeep trip for me and has connected me to contacts in India. I trust Kim implicitly. Every place one might travel in the entire Himalayan region — Nepal, India, China, Bhutan — is, by its nature, wildly unpredictable, from the weather, to closed borders, cancelled flights, lost luggage, runaway animals, altitude sickness, and beyond. Kim manages such fluidness with impressive agility, resource, and calm. We have shared quite a few wonderful stories, laughs, amazing food, and our share of beer over these adventures. As myself an experienced outdoor educator and leader, risk management consultant, and now attorney, my 2006 bet with Kim has paid off exquisitely. Stop looking now — you have found the best.
– Anne M (USA), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

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