Amazing Annapurna Circuit & Remote Nar Phu Lodge Trek
Tilicho Lake Trek (Optional Extension)
Nepal Himalaya Treks

Remote Nar Phu Lodge Trek – Nepal Himalaya Trek
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m
Welcome to Nepal! You will be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House or Khumbu Adventures, so look for a sign with your name on it. Transfer to your hotel where your rooms have been booked for you.

The Kathmandu Guest House is located in the hub of Thamel, a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically clad backpackers. (Options to upgrade to Dwarika’s, an oasis of calm near the airport. Relax by the pool, visit the spa and enjoy the historic and serene surroundings, dining at one of their world-class restaurants. Yak & Yeti is just off Durbar Marg, a tree-lined, upscale road of shops and hotels. Shangri La is in Lazimpat, just a few kilometers outside Thamel and features a lovely garden and outdoors cafe. The Hyatt Regency is a beautiful 5-star hotel near Boudhanath, with a large pool, wonderful sculptures in the lobby, and a real luxury feel).

Please give your guide a copy of your travel medical insurance, your passport and your Nepali visa and one (or more) visa-sized photo for your trekking permits. Enjoy your first evening in Nepal, there are many restaurants in and around the hotels, and drink plenty of water to rehydrate after the flight. (B)

Day 2 – Kathmandu
Enjoy a free day to explore Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites, to decompress at your hotel or the spa, to head out shopping or to embark on a tour of the Kathmandu and the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow-peaks. (B)

Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guide, vehicles and guides as required. See Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning, and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating, when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gompas) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world renown artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. . Swayambunath, the ‘self created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisvatti, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings, when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox to with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokhari’s, or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Pashupatinath, Boudhanath + Swayambunath (+$75)
Kathmandu Durbar Square Walking Tour | Durbar Square (+$50)

Day 3 – Drive Dharapani 1860m
After breakfast you’ll have an early start for the long, scenic drive from Kathmandu to Dharpani. The first section of the road to Besi Sahar follows the Trishuli River on the Kathmandu Pokhara highway, soon turning northeast to follow Marsyangdi River to Besi Sahar, (760m), a long, dusty town that used to be the start of the Annapurna Circuit trek. From here we’ll have a more adventurous drive up the Marsyangdi on a 4WD road to Jagat, past Chamje and on to Dharapani where you’ll spend your first night in one of Nepal’s famous lodges, or ‘tea-houses. Showers are solar in the Annapurna region, and it’s first-come-first-serve, so wash off the dust from the drive and settle into Nepali village life with a beer. ( 8+ hrs driving) (B, L, D)
Distance: 232km

Day 4 – Trek Koto Kyupar 2565m
Continuing to climb through forests of pine and oak, we pass through Danagyu before coming to a thundering waterfall, where we turn left and head up the high trail to Koto. After an hour of lovely, open forests, we reach a clearing at the top of the trail and a charming Tibetan teahouse where we will stop for a break. Pausing for breath, we can look back for views of Manaslu. An hour away is the wonderful Gurung village of Timang, where the villagers might be harvesting their crops of buckwheat or stuffing local sausages. Heading back down to the village of Koto Qupar, our base for the trek up to Nar Phu, we can look straight up at nearby Annapurna ll – a stunning sight convincing us that we are deep in the Himalayan mountains! Many of the villagers are the from Nar Phu valley. Koto is the gateway to their region, and we stay at a lovely lodge for the evening, with time to explore the village. (5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 14.55km

Day 5 – Trek Singenge Dharmasala 3230m or Meta 3560m
You’ll head out early on a long and somewhat challenging day, trekking north along the Nar Khola towards Nar Phu and the border of Tibet. Just past the Koto check post, cross the river on a long suspension bridge leading to the Nar Phu valley and ascend on a lovely trail through beautiful woods above the Nar Khola. It takes 2 hours to reach the first bridge, just past a possible campsite, where you’ll cross the river and continue north pass the small campsite (called Nar Phu Lhola campsite on map) and recross the river. Continuing to climb through the forest, you’ll cross the river again on a suspension bridge where there are signs to a hot spring, trek past a small teahouse, and after 20 more minutes reach Chhauchha (2950m). You’ll emerge out of the narrow canyon, the trail passing right under a wide waterfall from which point the woods become thinner and the vistas wider. Soon afterwards, trek past several small cave shelters and a dharmasala, or pilgrims’ rest house, once a basic stopping point in the woods, now a stop on the Nar Phu trek.

We will either stay the small lodge at Dharamsala or continue on and make the steep climb up the valley along a small, scenic trail to high, grazing pastures. This is the kharka of Meta (3560m) the non-permanent winter settlement of Nar where villagers have set up a small seasonal lodge. We will definitely share the village and pastures with a few yaks and possibly some villagers. The spectacular snow peak to the north west is Kanguru Himal, which avalanched 10+ years ago, a popular climbing peak. (6 1/5 hrs – 8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 15.07km 

Day 6 – Trek Chyako 3720m or Kyang 3880m
Today’s trek is one of the loveliest hikes in the Himalayas, starting off passing the turnoff to Kanguru Himal on the left. The landscape is similar to the Sierra Nevada; white rocks, low shrub and juniper, scattered evergreens, delicate brick-red and orange leafed bushes, crumbling shelves of flat slate, white, sandy trails and gnarled trees. The mountains around us are utterly spectacular, and the Phu Kosi shadows the trail far below. An hour past Meta, Junam Kharka (3550m) is the second semi permanent settlement, one where Khampas from Tibet sometimes sheltered. Above the kharka to the right looms a massive glacier, which falls jaggedly down to the high pastures above us, truly amazing scenery. In 2003, Kim camped with some Phu residents in Junam, on their way back up to Phu with huge loads of planks from the nearby forests, and the evening was filled with Tibetan songs, smoky shelters and their unique, infectious Tibetan laughter.

Across the river, the cliffs contort in swirls and waves, similar to Ladakhi landscapes. The next semi permanent settlement is Chako, formerly a Khampa settlement, where grass lies tied in bunches to dry on all the rooftops and prayer flags flutter in the breeze. A previous year we saw a massive yak caravan from Phu pass by at Chako on their way down to Manang to re-supply, a scene from old Tibet. Three more ascents and descents over the residue of glacial valleys to reach tonight’s stopping point at Kyang, the extensive winter settlement of Phu, on a plateau high above the river.

Kyang is a flat plateau with an extensive Buddhist mani wall, a small lodges and plenty of flat area for camping, as scenic a spot as they come with soaring red cliff walls surrounding this seasonal village, and views of Lamjung Himal, Annapurna III and Pisang Peak to the far right. Enjoy the sunset over these Himalayan peaks!

NOTE: You will either stay at Chyako or Kyang depending on availability of lodging. Your guide will discuss with locals en route before you leave from Meta in the morning. (5 – 6 1/2 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.03km 

Day 7 – Trek Phu 4050m
Taking the good trail cut into the rock on the right banks of the Phu Khola, we hike along this dramatic trail for half an hour, eventually dropping steeply down to the river, hiking along the riverside for a while. Notice the unique, ochre and white Buddhist chortens made of sticks, stone and mud brick, the Nar and Phu style. We have to rock hop carefully across a small glacial stream before reaching a larger tributary stream with a bridge of large slabs of slate (or possibly a new bridge).

We’ll trek along the riverside for approximately 2 1/2 hours, climbing and staying high for 20 minutes, hiking through scenic canyon lands and gorges, though a green spring area, past ancient mani walls and the impressive leaning monolith which guards the steep trail up to the Phu gate, locally called Pupigyal Kwe. This ancient gate provides us with our first view of the three villages of Phu, as well as an old dzong (fortress) in front of a sheer rock face, and the remains of two forts, all now in ruins, but impressively situated atop the flatlands before Phu. Just before the bridge to Phu, a line of wonderful Tibetan Buddhist chortens color the landscape and lead the way to the main village of Phu, perched high up on a hill, amphitheater style.

There are campsites and lodges on the lower reaches of Phu, formerly called Gomdzong, and more lodges and homestays in Phu. After lunch, you might head up to the famous Tashi Lhakhang Gompa on a neighboring hillside to pay your respects to Lama Karma Sonam Rimpoche, a trulku who came to Nepal with His Holiness the Dalai Lama in 1959. He is also a renowned amchi, or Tibetan doctor, as well as a thanka painter and father of several children (some trulkus as well as certain lamas are permitted to marry). Later, we head up to the fascinating, old village and explore the small alleyways and tunnels, watching the local men spin wool or repair shoes, or the local women weaving carpets. (3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 7.77km

Day 8 – Phu
A free day at this remote outpost of Tibetan Buddhist inhabitants, people who were once nomads, the village cut off from the rest of the world for much of the year.  Enjoy the free day, wander the village and meet the local Phu residents, and perhaps do some exploring up the wide valley systems above. Tibet is 2 long days away, a bit far for a visit, but you can walk up the valley to Ngoru Kharka (summer grazing settlement), a 3 hour walk past the gompa. For those with lots of energy, a hike towards the east through a glacial valley leads to Himlung Himal base camp, a 7125m peak opened for climbing 10+ years ago. There are often expeditions climbing this peak, as well as nearby Gyanji Kang. The mountain views are tremendous.

A walk west up past Phu towards the chortens on the hillside provides some incredible vistas and views down over Phu and the surrounding fields, forts, valleys and peaks. Phu itself is an incredibly interesting village, and a day is well spent sitting with the villagers as they spin their yak and sheep wool and chat, pound mustard seeds into a paste for oil, or involve themselves in the countless activities that take up a day in Tibetan villages. For photographers, the light is spectacular, and the skies a deep blue, and we may even see some blue sheep on the surrounding hillsides. A wander through the village will probably involve an invitation into someone’s home for some authentic Tibetan salt butter tea, or perhaps a small glass of local raksi, the Tibetan rice or barley liquor. The school is above the village, worth a visit, and further on their are some local hotsprings (that we haven’t visited yet) (B, L, D)

Day 9 – Trek Nar Phedi Gompa 3490m or Nar 4225m
A long day of trekking to reach Nar, worth the effort once you arrive at this timeless Tibetan village of flat rooftops, bustling with energy. Heading back through Phu Gate, we descend to the river and after 1/2 hour of trekking take a relatively new trail which leads to Nar, hiking on the opposite side of the river and connecting with the high trail further down valley. You may pass Phu locals on horseback en route, trading as they have for centuries, riding local horses with beautiful, Tibetan saddles, stopping at their local kharkas where they have stored supplies.

After several scenic hours of trekking, descend trek on a narrow, somewhat exposed trail to an old bridge of twigs spanning a deep, contoured gorge, cross the gorge on the new bridge, and then hike steeply back up 150 meters. Have your cameras out for the crossing of this narrow gorge! Below is Gyalbu Kumbum, built in 1650, and Satte Gompa, both once empty but a newly built guest house (rarely open) adding some life to this beautiful spot. We finally reach the Nar gates at the top of the hill, and pass by yet another line of wonderfully painted, bamboo-topped chortens and a large tiered chorten before turning the corner and being rewarded with sublime views of Nar, the undulating patterns of the surrounding barley, potato and mustard fields, four old, colorful and traditional gompas and the snow peaks looming overhead.

Physically Nar is not far from the main Annapurna trail, but it feels centuries away, and is about as picturesque a Tibetan village as you will find in the Himalaya. Nar is bit more social and lively than Phu, and the village square is full of chatting women with their back strap looms weaving wool fabric for rugs and blankets, pounding mustard seeds for oil, or spinning the ubiquitous wool while catching up on the news. The children in Nar seem to be always out in the streets, presumably preferring this life to the classroom! Each family in Nar seems to have at least one son or daughter in a gompa, and many live at home or visit frequently, so there is the resonating sound of cymbals, chanting and drums echoing throughout the village. Other Nar villagers may be printing prayer flags, doing some carpentry, collecting wood from the forest and carrying large loads with a head-strap back up to the house, harvesting the crops, tending the yaks, sheep and goats or spinning the prayer wheels in the center of town. Climb the prayer-flag festooned hill above Nar for wonderful views, or sit at our lovely guest house overlooking the whole scene in the sun, sheltered from the chilling and ever-present afternoon winds. It is a good day to try some local buckwheat pancakes, called dhiro in Nepali.

The people of sell their yaks to the Manangis, who in turn sell them to butchers for meat. The yak tails are sold to Hindus, and the skins are kept and used. Locally, they sell butter, dry cheese (churpi) and hand-woven blankets. The traders who go to Kathmandu often trade the butter and cheese for wheat and buckwheat, some of which they again sell in Manang. The blankets are sold for cash. In the winter, the Nar-pa often travel to Kathmandu and the Lamjung villages to sell traditional medicinal herbs and juniper, and lamas sell their services. Once they have cash in hand, they stock up on essentials such as chili for the winter. (8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 19.94km

TREK NOTE | If the guest house at Nar Phedi (Gyalbu Kumbum) is open, you can opt to stay there and hike up to Nar the next day.

Day 10 – Nar
An extra day in wonderful Nar, visiting with the ethnically Tibetan locals, watching the local weaving, the grinding of mustard seeds for oil, the planting or harvesting, and the village elders counting their Buddhist prayer beads as they do their koras of the village. Have a wander down to the village gompas, or up to any of the many viewpoints north of the village, and enjoy the opportunity for some real immersion into this unique Tibetan culture. (B, L, D)

Day 11 – Trek Ngawal 4575m | Cross Kang La 5305m
A spectacular pass day, leaving Nar Phu and crossing the Kang La pass back to the Annapurna circuit, leaving Nar before the sun rises as it’s a long day to Ngawal village. The ascent 1000+ meter ascent to the pass is challenging but worth the efforts for the incredible views from the top of the pass; the Annapurna range stretches ahead, a sublime site. The descent is very steep on a switchbacking trail of loose scree, and can be slippery if there is snow on the pass. Once down the initial steep descent, the trail descends more gradually on rolling hills, and soon the airport of Thongde, and then Ngawal, come into view.

Ngawal is a wonderful, old village of cobbled streets, prayer wheels, decorative water-spouts and beautiful architecture, obviously a hub of religious activity in previous times. (8 – 9 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 15.04km 

Day 12 – Trek Manang 3500m
An easy day after yesterday’s challenging crossing of the Kang La pass! Leaving Ngawal though the exit chorten, we contour around a hillside as we descend gradually, heading north on a two hour walk through open forest to Braga, an old Tibetan style village of about 150 partially deserted houses. We have time to explore the old village of Braga, with the wonderful Braga Gompa perched colorfully above the stacked houses. The monastery has an elaborate collection of thangkas and statues, and it is worth finding the key-keeper to open the assembly hall and ‘lha khangs’ for us. Braga also has an impressive collection of traditional architectural details, so keep your eyes open for beautifully carved wooden windows and doors. The prayer wheels and chorten at the foot of Braga are particularly brightly painted.

From Braga, continue to hike for 20 minutes, past a series of unique and colorful chortens to Manang, a village of 500 or so flat-roofed houses, the headquarters for the region, and an interesting village packed with trekkers, bakeries and lodges. Manang is dominated by high peaks, towered over by Annapurna lll and Gangapurna with the Gangapurna Glacier across the Marsyangdi. There is an old gompa on the edge of town, many local teahouses, and some atmospheric, winding streets in the village leading out toward the Thorung La. We spend the night at Tashi Ghale + his wife Ongmo’s Mountain View Lodge. Tashi is a world renown snow leopard, wildlife and mountain photographer. Visit his website, Tales Beyond the Mountain.

There is a 3 o’clock lecture on altitude by the Himalayan Rescue Association for anyone interested, a worthwhile way to spend the afternoon. (2 – 3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 10.20km 

Day 13 – Manang | Exploration Day
An acclimatization day in wonderful Manang, with many options. Tashi can also offer suggestions as he’s explored every meter of this incredible region.

MANANG OPTIONS | A long day-hike to the Ice Lake, a visit to the ‘Hundred Ruppee Lama’ at the cave gompa above Manang, a two-hour hike to Milarepa’s cave across the river from Braga, the HRA talk, or a tour of Manang’s many bakeries. A hike up 300 meters or so for acclimatization is recommended, but nothing too strenuous is required. The guest house is wonderful, a sunny and warm place to gaze at the peaks in the afternoon.
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Optional Tilicho Lake Trek | 2 – 3 Days

Trek Tilicho Base Camp
Today’s trek is about six hours; from Manang, we cross to the east side of the Marsyangdi River and then head into the ‘interior’ of the Annapurna circuit to Tilicho Base Camp. In the morning, we will take the three hour walk out to Tilicho Lake itself.

Trek to Tilicho Lake. Return to Mid-Camp, Khangsar or Manang
We start early for the three hour walk out to the spectacular Tilicho Lake; it can be cold and windy, so dress warmly. We’ll return to ‘base camp’ for lunch, and then return to either Mid-Camp, Manang or Khangsar from where there is an intersecting trail back to the Annapurna Circuit.
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Day 14 – Trek Ledar 4300m
It’s not a long day but we do gain altitude so will hike slowly and enjoy the world-class scenery! En route, we will undoubtedly be passed along the trail by galloping Manangi horses, saddled with wonderful (and expensive) Tibetan wool saddle blankets, and their jubilant Manangi riders, bells jingling as they gallop by. Keep an eye out for herds of blue sheep, actually wild mountain goats, in the craggy hills above the trails. This is also classic snow leopard territory!

Climb past Tengi and Gunsang to Yak Kharka, where you’ll stop for lunch at one of the lodges, and then continut another 45 minutes to arrive in tiny Ledar, where you stay at an alpine-style guest house with views to match. Rest up! (5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.54km

Day 15 – Trek Thorung Phedi 4535m or High Camp 4885m
A deceptively challenging hike through increasingly tundra-like landscapes, heading towards Tibetan territory! You’re headed to Thorung Phedi (often called Thorung Base Camp) where you’ll arrive in time for lunch. Depending on the group’s acclimatization rate you may opt to stay lower at Thorung Phedi. If everyone is feeling okay, you can hike the hour and a half (maximum) and 300 meters up to Thorung Phedi High Camp, worth the effort for the spectacular sunsets and easier day tomorrow.

Either way, you will be in bed early after dinner for an early morning start for tomorrow’s crossing of the Thorung La pass (5415m). Again, if anyone  has any problems at this altitude it’s an easy hike back down to Base Camp, where you stay at a nice lodge to with sun, glass windows and with occasional blue sheep sightings. (5 km BC, 6 km HC, 3 1/2 – 5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 6.12km

Day 16 – Trek Muktinath 3800m or Jharkot 3535m | Cross Thorung La 5415m
Up early for the three or four hour walk to the top of the Thorung La at 5400m, where we are treated with spectacular views over Mustang and the surrounding peaks. The descent is almost as demanding as the ascent to the top of the pass, so a cup of chai and a snack at the local tea house at Chabarbu, at the bottom of the descent, is a required stop. And on to lower Mustang, which we have actually reached just after the pass, and the serene temple complex of Muktinath.

Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. We stay just five minutes down the trail from Muktinath at Ranipauwa.

TREK NOTE | Generally we suggest continuing half and hour+ down the trail to more scenic Jarkhot as Muktinath can be a bit overwhelming with all the new Hindu pilgrims, who come by road to visit Muktinath. Jharkot is a more traditional Mustangi village, bustling and incredibly beautiful in the evening light. (7-9 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 12.57km

Day 17 – Trek Kagbeni 2800m & Jomsom 2720m
Today’s lovely trek heads south through traditional Mustangi villages where you’ll find local apples in the Autumn and watch the traditional back-loom weaving techniques being practiced by the local women. If you’re stopped at Muktinath, half an hour down the trail, Jharkot is an old Mustangi village with a medieval atmosphere, a Shakya gompa which is a traditional medicine center and incredibly photogenic whitewashed houses and streets. Further along the trail at Khingar, we might visit the local school. The scenery is truly wonderful: soft light, patchworks of fields, peaks overhead, villagers out plowing the fields, horses tethered next to the houses, and apple trees providing texture to the landscape.

After a steep descent, we reach the windy Kali Gandaki (called the Thak Khola by the locals) river valley where it intersects the Jhong Khola, and the last village in lower Mustang, the atmospheric oasis of Kagbeni. The mud-packed houses, prayer wheels, narrow, stone streets, covered alleyways, chortens and old brick-hued gompa dominating the village and guarding the river intersections are reminiscent of old Mustang, and those who wanted to venture further can wander across the river to the Mustangi villages officially off limits but easily accessible. At the Trekker’s Lodge in the lower section of Jomsom near the airport hot showers await. Stick your heads out of your rooms to see the sunrise on Niligiri before breakfast. Himalayan sunrises and sunsets are one of the many things that remind us of why we’ve come all this way, and endured these hard, cold trekking days! (B, L, D)
Distance: 18.53km

NOTE | You have the option to skip Kagbeni and trek directly to Jomsom, or to hire a jeep for any portion of this hike.

Day 18 – Fly Pokhara & Kathmandu
The end of an amazing trek, and an equally impressive exit as we you fly by Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna range to reach Pokhara, where you will transfer to a flight to Kathmandu. Back in Kathmandu, rooms are booked, hot showers being the first order of the afternoon! (B)

FLLIGHT NOTE | In the case of flight cancellation out of Jomsom, Kamzang Journeys pays for the rooms in Jomsom and you are responsible for meals at the lodge.

Day 19 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA
We send you off to the airport for your flight home.

FLIGHT NOTE | Unless you have flexible flights we strongly suggest you add at least one, and perhaps two days in Kathmandu at the end of the trek that allow for possible flight delays in getting out of Jomsom.

Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! to put together the perfect journey.

Mountain biking, rafting, vespa tours or yoga retreats around the Kathmandu valley or Pokhara, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic capital cities), a visit to the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas, an Everest sightseeing flight, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining in Pokhara, a spa & wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park Wildlife Safari & Tharu Villages (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or five-star treatment in historic Dwarika’s in Kathmandu.

Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these excursions for you, just inquire!

Annapurna Circuit & Remote Nar Phu Lodge Trek – Nepal Himalayan Trekking
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! You will be met at Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from Kamzang Journeys or Khumbu Adventures (our partners in Kathmandu) Doma, Lhakpa and Nuru Sherpa). Look for a sign with your name on it as you leave the arrival area. We strongly suggest purchasing a NTC (Nepal Telecom) SIM card as you leave the airport if you have an unlocked phone. It’s very useful for data in the remote regions of Nepal. We will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House (or see Great Stays tab for luxury, boutique, and other hotel options in the Kathmandu Valley) where your room has been booked for you. Drink plenty of water to hydrate after your flight, and enjoy your first evening in Kathmandu …

We’ll need your travel medical insurance, a copy of your passport and Nepali visa, and one (or more) visa-sized photos (inquire if we need for your trek); please have them ready to give to Lhakpa, Doma or Nuru. And please ask if you need your gear checked, or have shopping or sightseeing questions!

Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Enjoy dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants … (B)

Day 2 – Kathmandu
Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (See Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Day 3 – Drive Dharapani 1860m
After breakfast you’ll have an early start for the long, scenic drive from Kathmandu to Dharpani. The first section of the road to Besi Sahar follows the Trishuli River on the Kathmandu Pokhara highway, soon turning northeast to follow Marsyangdi River to Besi Sahar, (760m), a long, dusty town which used to be the start of the Annapurna Circuit trek. From here we’ll have a more adventurous drive up the Marsyangdi on a 4WD road to Jagat, past Chamje and on to Dharapani where you’ll spend your first night in one of Nepal’s famous lodges, or ‘tea-houses’. Showers are solar in the Annapurna region, and it’s first-come-first-serve, so wash off the dust from the drive and settle into Nepali village life with a beer. (8+ hrs driving) (B, L, D)
Distance: 232km 

Day 4 – Trek Koto Kyupar 2565m
Continuing to climb through forests of pine and oak, we pass through Danagyu before coming to a thundering waterfall, where we turn left and head up the high trail to Koto. After an hour of lovely, open forests, we reach a clearing at the top of the trail and a charming Tibetan teahouse where we will stop for a break. Pausing for breath, we can look back for views of Manaslu. An hour away is the wonderful Gurung village of Timang, where the villagers might be harvesting their crops of buckwheat or stuffing local sausages. Heading back down to the village of Koto Qupar, our base for the trek up to Nar Phu, we can look straight up at nearby Annapurna ll – a stunning sight convincing us that we are deep in the Himalayan mountains! Many of the villagers are the from Nar Phu valley. Koto is the gateway to their region, and we stay at a lovely lodge for the evening, with time to explore the village. (5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 14.55km

Day 5 – Trek Singenge Dharmasala 3230m & Meta 3560m
You’ll head out early on a long and somewhat challenging day, trekking north along the Nar Khola towards Nar Phu and the border of Tibet. Just past the Koto check post, cross the river on a long suspension bridge leading to the Nar Phu valley and ascend on a lovely trail through beautiful woods above the Nar Khola. It takes 2 hours to reach the first bridge, just past a possible campsite, where you’ll cross the river and continue north pass the small campsite (called Nar Phu Lhola campsite on map) and recross the river. Continuing to climb through the forest, you’ll cross the river again on a suspension bridge where there are signs to a hot spring, trek past a small teahouse, and after 20 more minutes reach Chhauchha (2950m). You’ll emerge out of the narrow canyon, the trail passing right under a wide waterfall from which point the woods become thinner and the vistas wider. Soon afterwards, trek past several small cave shelters and a dharmasala, or pilgrims’ rest house, once a basic stopping point in the woods, now a stop on the Nar Phu trek. There are several other small restaurants or stopping points before Dharmasala (3230m), so if you need to stop early, feel free to choose one of these rustic stops.

Once you reach  Dharamsala, you will make the steep climb up the valley along a small, scenic trail to high, grazing pastures of Meta. This kharka, now boasting several basic lodges, is the non-permanent winter settlement of Nar, where villagers now spend more time due to the demand of trekkers. You’ll spend the night at the nicest and newest of the lodges, Kambala Guest House, on the far end of the settlement. You might share the village and pastures with a few yaks and possibly some villagers, and it’s worth a wander through the settlement, which looks as if the earthquake did more damage than it actually did. The spectacular snow peak to the north west is Kanguru Himal, which avalanched 10+ years ago, a popular climbing peak. (6 1/5 hrs – 8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 15.07km

Day 6 – Trek Chyako 3720m or Kyang 3880m
Today’s trek is one of the loveliest hikes in the Himalayas, starting off passing the turnoff to Kanguru Himal on the left. The landscape is similar to the Sierra Nevada; white rocks, low shrub and juniper, scattered evergreens, delicate brick-red and orange leafed bushes, crumbling shelves of flat slate, white, sandy trails and gnarled trees. The mountains around us are utterly spectacular, and the Phu Kosi shadows the trail far below. An hour past Meta, Junam Kharka (3550m) is the second semi permanent settlement, one where Khampas from Tibet sometimes sheltered. Above the kharka to the right looms a massive glacier, which falls jaggedly down to the high pastures above us, truly amazing scenery. In 2003, Kim camped with some Phu residents in Junam, on their way back up to Phu with huge loads of planks from the nearby forests, and the evening was filled with Tibetan songs, smoky shelters and their unique, infectious Tibetan laughter.

Across the river, the cliffs contort in swirls and waves, similar to Ladakhi landscapes. The next semi permanent settlement is Chako, formerly a Khampa settlement, where grass lies tied in bunches to dry on all the rooftops and prayer flags flutter in the breeze. A previous year we saw a massive yak caravan from Phu pass by at Chako on their way down to Manang to re-supply, a scene from old Tibet. Three more ascents and descents over the residue of glacial valleys to reach tonight’s stopping point at Kyang, the extensive winter settlement of Phu, on a plateau high above the river. Kyang is a flat plateau with an extensive Buddhist mani wall, a small lodges and plenty of flat area for camping, as scenic a spot as they come with soaring red cliff walls surrounding this seasonal village, and views of Lamjung Himal, Annapurna III and Pisang Peak to the far right. Enjoy the sunset over these Himalayan peaks!

NOTE: You will either stay at Chyako or Kyang depending on availability of lodging. Your guide will discuss with locals en route before you leave from Meta in the morning. (5 – 6 1/2 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.03km 

Day 7 – Trek Phu 4050m
Taking the good trail cut into the rock on the right banks of the Phu Khola, we hike along this dramatic trail for half an hour, eventually dropping steeply down to the river, hiking along the riverside for a while. Notice the unique, ochre and white Buddhist chortens made of sticks, stone and mud brick, the Nar and Phu style. We have to rock hop carefully across a small glacial stream before reaching a larger tributary stream with a bridge of large slabs of slate (or possibly a new bridge).

We’ll trek along the riverside for approximately 2 1/2 hours, climbing and staying high for 20 minutes, hiking through scenic canyon lands and gorges, though a green spring area, past ancient mani walls and the impressive leaning monolith which guards the steep trail up to the Phu gate, locally called Pupigyal Kwe. This ancient gate provides us with our first view of the three villages of Phu, as well as an old dzong (fortress) in front of a sheer rock face, and the remains of two forts, all now in ruins, but impressively situated atop the flatlands before Phu. Just before the bridge to Phu, a line of wonderful Tibetan Buddhist chortens color the landscape and lead the way to the main village of Phu, perched high up on a hill, amphitheater style.

There are campsites and lodges on the lower reaches of Phu, formerly called Gomdzong, and more lodges and homestays in Phu. After lunch, you might head up to the famous Tashi Lhakhang Gompa on a neighboring hillside to pay your respects to Lama Karma Sonam Rimpoche, a trulku who came to Nepal with His Holiness the Dalai Lama in 1959. He is also a renowned amchi, or Tibetan doctor, as well as a thanka painter and father of several children (some trulkus as well as certain lamas are permitted to marry). Later, we head up to the fascinating, old village and explore the small alleyways and tunnels, watching the local men spin wool or repair shoes, or the local women weaving carpets. (3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 7.77km 

Day 8 – Phu
A free day at this remote outpost of Tibetan Buddhist inhabitants, people who were once nomads, the village cut off from the rest of the world for much of the year.  Enjoy the free day, wander the village and meet the local Phu residents, and perhaps do some exploring up the wide valley systems above. Tibet is 2 long days away, a bit far for a visit, but you can walk up the valley to Ngoru Kharka (summer grazing settlement), a 3 hour walk past the gompa. For those with lots of energy, a hike towards the east through a glacial valley leads to Himlung Himal base camp, a 7125m peak opened for climbing 10+ years ago. There are often expeditions climbing this peak, as well as nearby Gyanji Kang. The mountain views are tremendous.

A walk west up past Phu towards the chortens on the hillside provides some incredible vistas and views down over Phu and the surrounding fields, forts, valleys and peaks. Phu itself is an incredibly interesting village, and a day is well spent sitting with the villagers as they spin their yak and sheep wool and chat, pound mustard seeds into a paste for oil, or involve themselves in the countless activities that take up a day in Tibetan villages. For photographers, the light is spectacular, and the skies a deep blue, and we may even see some blue sheep on the surrounding hillsides. A wander through the village will probably involve an invitation into someone’s home for some authentic Tibetan salt butter tea, or perhaps a small glass of local raksi, the Tibetan rice or barley liquor. The school is above the village, worth a visit, and further on their are some local hotsprings (that we haven’t visited yet).

Day 9 – Trek Nar 4225m
A long day of trekking to reach Nar, worth the effort once you arrive at this timeless Tibetan village of flat rooftops, bustling with energy. Heading back through Phu Gate, we descend to the river and after 1/2 hour of trekking take a relatively new trail which leads to Nar, hiking on the opposite side of the river and connecting with the high trail further down valley. You may pass Phu locals on horseback en route, trading as they have for centuries, riding local horses with beautiful, Tibetan saddles, stopping at their local kharkas where they have stored supplies.

After several scenic hours of trekking, descend trek on a narrow, somewhat exposed trail to an old bridge of twigs spanning a deep, contoured gorge, cross the gorge on the new bridge, and then hike steeply back up 150 meters. Have your cameras out for the crossing of this narrow gorge! Below is Gyalbu Kumbum, built in 1650, and Satte Gompa, both once empty but a newly built guest house (rarely open) adding some life to this beautiful spot. We finally reach the Nar gates at the top of the hill, and pass by yet another line of wonderfully painted, bamboo-topped chortens and a large tiered chorten before turning the corner and being rewarded with sublime views of Nar, the undulating patterns of the surrounding barley, potato and mustard fields, four old, colorful and traditional gompas and the snow peaks looming overhead.

Physically Nar is not far from the main Annapurna trail, but it feels centuries away, and is about as picturesque a Tibetan village as you will find in the Himalaya. Nar is bit more social and lively than Phu, and the village square is full of chatting women with their back strap looms weaving wool fabric for rugs and blankets, pounding mustard seeds for oil, or spinning the ubiquitous wool while catching up on the news. The children in Nar seem to be always out in the streets, presumably preferring this life to the classroom! Each family in Nar seems to have at least one son or daughter in a gompa, and many live at home or visit frequently, so there is the resonating sound of cymbals, chanting and drums echoing throughout the village. Other Nar villagers may be printing prayer flags, doing some carpentry, collecting wood from the forest and carrying large loads with a head-strap back up to the house, harvesting the crops, tending the yaks, sheep and goats or spinning the prayer wheels in the center of town. Climb the prayer-flag festooned hill above Nar for wonderful views, or sit at our lovely guest house overlooking the whole scene in the sun, sheltered from the chilling and ever-present afternoon winds. It is a good day to try some local buckwheat pancakes, called dhiro in Nepali.

The people of sell their yaks to the Manangis, who in turn sell them to butchers for meat. The yak tails are sold to Hindus, and the skins are kept and used. Locally, they sell butter, dry cheese (churpi) and hand-woven blankets. The traders who go to Kathmandu often trade the butter and cheese for wheat and buckwheat, some of which they again sell in Manang. The blankets are sold for cash. In the winter, the Nar-pa often travel to Kathmandu and the Lamjung villages to sell traditional medicinal herbs and juniper, and lamas sell their services. Once they have cash in hand, they stock up on essentials such as chili for the winter. You’ll stay at Shanti + Nima’s Shanti Hotel at the top of the village, the oldest (and now newly renovated) lodge in Nar, with wonderful owners and a nice fire to sit around in the kitchen if the weather is cold. (8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 19.94k

TREK NOTE | You can opt to stay at Nar Phedi in the Gyalbu Kumbum guest house if the appeals. It’s an hour’s hike below Nar, a quiet monastery and a lovely setting with a local caretaker who’s a good cook!

Day 10 – Nar
An extra day in wonderful Nar, visiting with the ethnically Tibetan locals, watching the local weaving, the grinding of mustard seeds for oil, the planting or harvesting, and the village elders counting their Buddhist prayer beads as they do their koras of the village. Have a wander down to the village gompas, or up to any of the many viewpoints north of the village, and enjoy the opportunity for some real immersion into this unique Tibetan culture. (B, L, D)

Day 11 – Trek Koto
Leaving magical Nar, retrace your route back to the intersection of the Ghatte Khola and the Phu Khola, and trek back down to Koto where you will stay for the night at the last lodge of the trek, giving out tips to the staff in the evening. (B, L, D)
Distance: 20.73km

Day 12 – Drive Pokhara
It will be a long and beautiful drive back to Besi Sahar, and then on the main highway to Pokhara, where you check in for the night at Lakeside Resort or Temple Tree Resort + Spa. Enjoy a good dinner out at Moondance Cafe in the evening! (B, L)
Distance: 168km

Extra Day – Pokhara
There is endless opportunity to spend extra time in Pokhara, so at least one day in this balmy city, Nepal’s second largest, is a must post trek. Options including a stroll part way around Phewa Lake, paragliding or zip-lining from Sarankot, paddling on the lake, a morning hike up to Shanti Stupa via a short canoe trip, a cycling trip to the end of the lake (many options) or a day of shopping for the creative locally produced crafts along Lakeside.

Day 13 – Fly Kathmandu
After a bountiful buffet breakfast, you’ll board the morning flight back to Kathmandu (with options to stay extra days in Pokhara). You have the afternoon in Kathmandu for shopping, relaxing in the garden of the hotel, last minute shopping or perhaps a visit to Boudhanath for some ‘koras’ to give thanks for the safe journey in the mountains. (B)

Day 14 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA
We send you off to the airport for your flight home. Namaste! (B)

Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! to put together the perfect journey.

Mountain biking, rafting, vespa tours or yoga retreats around the Kathmandu valley or Pokhara, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic capital cities), a visit to the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas, an Everest sightseeing flight, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining in Pokhara, a spa & wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park Wildlife Safari & Tharu Villages (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or five-star treatment in historic Dwarika’s in Kathmandu.

Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these excursions for you, just inquire!

Annapurna Circuit & Panorama Trek & Remote Nar Phu Lodge Trek – Nepal Himalayan Trekking
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! You will be met at Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from Kamzang Journeys or Khumbu Adventures (our partners in Kathmandu) Doma, Lhakpa and Nuru Sherpa). Look for a sign with your name on it as you leave the arrival area. We strongly suggest purchasing a NTC (Nepal Telecom) SIM card as you leave the airport if you have an unlocked phone. It’s very useful for data in the remote regions of Nepal. We will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House (or see Great Stays tab for luxury, boutique, and other hotel options in the Kathmandu Valley) where your room has been booked for you. Drink plenty of water to hydrate after your flight, and enjoy your first evening in Kathmandu …

We’ll need your travel medical insurance, a copy of your passport and Nepali visa, and one (or more) visa-sized photos (inquire if we need for your trek); please have them ready to give to Lhakpa, Doma or Nuru. And please ask if you need your gear checked, or have shopping or sightseeing questions!

Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Enjoy dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants … (B)

Day 2 – Kathmandu
Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (See Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Day 3 – Drive Dharapani 1860m
After breakfast you’ll have an early start for the long, scenic drive from Kathmandu to Dharpani. The first section of the road to Besi Sahar follows the Trishuli River on the Kathmandu Pokhara highway, soon turning northeast to follow Marsyangdi River to Besi Sahar, (760m), a long, dusty town which used to be the start of the Annapurna Circuit trek. From here we’ll have a more adventurous drive up the Marsyangdi on a 4WD road to Jagat, past Chamje and on to Dharapani where you’ll spend your first night in one of Nepal’s famous lodges, or ‘tea-houses’. Showers are solar in the Annapurna region, and it’s first-come-first-serve, so wash off the dust from the drive and settle into Nepali village life with a beer. (8+ hrs driving) (B, L, D)
Distance Driving: 255 km

Day 4 – Trek Koto Kyupar 2565m
Continuing to climb through forests of pine and oak, we pass through Danagyu before coming to a thundering waterfall, where we turn left and head up the high trail to Koto. After an hour of lovely, open forests, we reach a clearing at the top of the trail and a charming Tibetan teahouse where we will stop for a break. Pausing for breath, we can look back for views of Manaslu. An hour away is the wonderful Gurung village of Timang, where the villagers might be harvesting their crops of buckwheat or stuffing local sausages. Heading back down to the village of Koto Qupar, our base for the trek up to Nar Phu, we can look straight up at nearby Annapurna ll – a stunning sight convincing us that we are deep in the Himalayan mountains! Many of the villagers are the from Nar Phu valley. Koto is the gateway to their region, and we stay at a lovely lodge for the evening, with time to explore the village. (5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distancer: 12 km

Day 5 – Trek Singenge Dharmasala 3230m or Meta 3560m
You’ll head out early on a long and somewhat challenging day, trekking north along the Nar Khola towards Nar Phu and the border of Tibet. Just past the Koto check post, cross the river on a long suspension bridge leading to the Nar Phu valley and ascend on a lovely trail through beautiful woods above the Nar Khola. It takes 2 hours to reach the first bridge, just past a possible campsite, where you’ll cross the river and continue north pass the small campsite (called Nar Phu Lhola campsite on map) and recross the river. Continuing to climb through the forest, you’ll cross the river again on a suspension bridge where there are signs to a hot spring, trek past a small teahouse, and after 20 more minutes reach Chhauchha (2950m). You’ll emerge out of the narrow canyon, the trail passing right under a wide waterfall from which point the woods become thinner and the vistas wider. Soon afterwards, trek past several small cave shelters and a dharmasala, or pilgrims’ rest house, once a basic stopping point in the woods, now a stop on the Nar Phu trek.

We will either stay the small lodge at Dharamsala or continue on and make the steep climb up the valley along a small, scenic trail to high, grazing pastures. This is the kharka of Meta (3560m) the non-permanent winter settlement of Nar where villagers have set up a small seasonal lodge. We will definitely share the village and pastures with a few yaks and possibly some villagers. The spectacular snow peak to the north west is Kanguru Himal, which avalanched 10+ years ago, a popular climbing peak. (6 1/5 hrs – 8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 

Day 6 – Trek Kyang 3880m
Today’s trek is one of the loveliest hikes in the Himalayas, starting off passing the turnoff to Kanguru Himal on the left. The landscape is similar to the Sierra Nevada; white rocks, low shrub and juniper, scattered evergreens, delicate brick-red and orange leafed bushes, crumbling shelves of flat slate, white, sandy trails and gnarled trees. The mountains around us are utterly spectacular, and the Phu Kosi shadows the trail far below. An hour past Meta, Junam Kharka (3550m) is the second semi permanent settlement, one where Khampas from Tibet sometimes sheltered. Above the kharka to the right looms a massive glacier, which falls jaggedly down to the high pastures above us, truly amazing scenery. In 2003, Kim camped with some Phu residents in Junam, on their way back up to Phu with huge loads of planks from the nearby forests, and the evening was filled with Tibetan songs, smoky shelters and their unique, infectious Tibetan laughter.

Across the river, the cliffs contort in swirls and waves, similar to Ladakhi landscapes. The next semi permanent settlement is Chako, formerly a Khampa settlement, where grass lies tied in bunches to dry on all the rooftops and prayer flags flutter in the breeze. A previous year we saw a massive yak caravan from Phu pass by at Chako on their way down to Manang to re-supply, a scene from old Tibet. Three more ascents and descents over the residue of glacial valleys to reach tonight’s stopping point at Kyang, the extensive winter settlement of Phu, on a plateau high above the river.

Kyang is a flat plateau with an extensive Buddhist mani wall, a small lodges and plenty of flat area for camping, as scenic a spot as they come with soaring red cliff walls surrounding this seasonal village, and views of Lamjung Himal, Annapurna III and Pisang Peak to the far right. Enjoy the sunset over these Himalayan peaks! (5 – 6 1/2 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 

Day 7 – Trek Phu 4050m
Taking the good trail cut into the rock on the right banks of the Phu Khola, we hike along this dramatic trail for half an hour, eventually dropping steeply down to the river, hiking along the riverside for a while. Notice the unique, ochre and white Buddhist chortens made of sticks, stone and mud brick, the Nar and Phu style. We have to rock hop carefully across a small glacial stream before reaching a larger tributary stream with a bridge of large slabs of slate (or possibly a new bridge).

We’ll trek along the riverside for approximately 2 1/2 hours, climbing and staying high for 20 minutes, hiking through scenic canyon lands and gorges, though a green spring area, past ancient mani walls and the impressive leaning monolith which guards the steep trail up to the Phu gate, locally called Pupigyal Kwe. This ancient gate provides us with our first view of the three villages of Phu, as well as an old dzong (fortress) in front of a sheer rock face, and the remains of two forts, all now in ruins, but impressively situated atop the flatlands before Phu. Just before the bridge to Phu, a line of wonderful Tibetan Buddhist chortens color the landscape and lead the way to the main village of Phu, perched high up on a hill, amphitheater style.

There are campsites and lodges on the lower reaches of Phu, formerly called Gomdzong, and more lodges and homestays in Phu. After lunch, you might head up to the famous Tashi Lhakhang Gompa on a neighboring hillside to pay your respects to Lama Karma Sonam Rimpoche, a trulku who came to Nepal with His Holiness the Dalai Lama in 1959. He is also a renowned amchi, or Tibetan doctor, as well as a thanka painter and father of several children (some trulkus as well as certain lamas are permitted to marry). Later, we head up to the fascinating, old village and explore the small alleyways and tunnels, watching the local men spin wool or repair shoes, or the local women weaving carpets. (3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance:

Day 8 – Phu
A free day at this remote outpost of Tibetan Buddhist inhabitants, people who were once nomads, the village cut off from the rest of the world for much of the year.  Enjoy the free day, wander the village and meet the local Phu residents, and perhaps do some exploring up the wide valley systems above. Tibet is 2 long days away, a bit far for a visit, but you can walk up the valley to Ngoru Kharka (summer grazing settlement), a 3 hour walk past the gompa. For those with lots of energy, a hike towards the east through a glacial valley leads to Himlung Himal base camp, a 7125m peak opened for climbing 10+ years ago. There are often expeditions climbing this peak, as well as nearby Gyanji Kang. The mountain views are tremendous.

A walk west up past Phu towards the chortens on the hillside provides some incredible vistas and views down over Phu and the surrounding fields, forts, valleys and peaks. Phu itself is an incredibly interesting village, and a day is well spent sitting with the villagers as they spin their yak and sheep wool and chat, pound mustard seeds into a paste for oil, or involve themselves in the countless activities that take up a day in Tibetan villages. For photographers, the light is spectacular, and the skies a deep blue, and we may even see some blue sheep on the surrounding hillsides. A wander through the village will probably involve an invitation into someone’s home for some authentic Tibetan salt butter tea, or perhaps a small glass of local raksi, the Tibetan rice or barley liquor. The school is above the village, worth a visit, and further on their are some local hotsprings (that we haven’t visited yet). (B, L, D)

Day 9 – Trek Nar 4225m
A long day of trekking to reach Nar, worth the effort once you arrive at this timeless Tibetan village of flat rooftops, bustling with energy. Heading back through Phu Gate, we descend to the river and after 1/2 hour of trekking take a relatively new trail which leads to Nar, hiking on the opposite side of the river and connecting with the high trail further down valley. You may pass Phu locals on horseback en route, trading as they have for centuries, riding local horses with beautiful, Tibetan saddles, stopping at their local kharkas where they have stored supplies.

After several scenic hours of trekking, descend trek on a narrow, somewhat exposed trail to an old bridge of twigs spanning a deep, contoured gorge, cross the gorge on the new bridge, and then hike steeply back up 150 meters. Have your cameras out for the crossing of this narrow gorge! Below is Gyalbu Kumbum, built in 1650, and Satte Gompa, both once empty but a newly built guest house (rarely open) adding some life to this beautiful spot. We finally reach the Nar gates at the top of the hill, and pass by yet another line of wonderfully painted, bamboo-topped chortens and a large tiered chorten before turning the corner and being rewarded with sublime views of Nar, the undulating patterns of the surrounding barley, potato and mustard fields, four old, colorful and traditional gompas and the snow peaks looming overhead.

Physically Nar is not far from the main Annapurna trail, but it feels centuries away, and is about as picturesque a Tibetan village as you will find in the Himalaya. Nar is bit more social and lively than Phu, and the village square is full of chatting women with their back strap looms weaving wool fabric for rugs and blankets, pounding mustard seeds for oil, or spinning the ubiquitous wool while catching up on the news. The children in Nar seem to be always out in the streets, presumably preferring this life to the classroom! Each family in Nar seems to have at least one son or daughter in a gompa, and many live at home or visit frequently, so there is the resonating sound of cymbals, chanting and drums echoing throughout the village. Other Nar villagers may be printing prayer flags, doing some carpentry, collecting wood from the forest and carrying large loads with a head-strap back up to the house, harvesting the crops, tending the yaks, sheep and goats or spinning the prayer wheels in the center of town. Climb the prayer-flag festooned hill above Nar for wonderful views, or sit at our lovely guest house overlooking the whole scene in the sun, sheltered from the chilling and ever-present afternoon winds. It is a good day to try some local buckwheat pancakes, called dhiro in Nepali.

The people of sell their yaks to the Manangis, who in turn sell them to butchers for meat. The yak tails are sold to Hindus, and the skins are kept and used. Locally, they sell butter, dry cheese (churpi) and hand-woven blankets. The traders who go to Kathmandu often trade the butter and cheese for wheat and buckwheat, some of which they again sell in Manang. The blankets are sold for cash. In the winter, the Nar-pa often travel to Kathmandu and the Lamjung villages to sell traditional medicinal herbs and juniper, and lamas sell their services. Once they have cash in hand, they stock up on essentials such as chili for the winter. (8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance:

TREK NOTE | If the guest house at Nar Phedi (Gyalbu Kumbum) is open, you can opt to stay there and hike up to Nar the next day.

Day 10 – Nar
An extra day in wonderful Nar, visiting with the ethnically Tibetan locals, watching the local weaving, the grinding of mustard seeds for oil, the planting or harvesting, and the village elders counting their Buddhist prayer beads as they do their koras of the village. Have a wander down to the village gompas, or up to any of the many viewpoints north of the village, and enjoy the opportunity for some real immersion into this unique Tibetan culture. (B, L, D)
Distance:

Day 11 – Trek Ngawal (cross Kang La 5305m)
A spectacular pass day, leaving Nar Phu and crossing the Kang La pass back to the Annapurna circuit, leaving Nar before the sun rises as it’s a long day to Ngawal village. The ascent 1000+ meter ascent to the pass is challenging but worth the efforts for the incredible views from the top of the pass; the Annapurna range stretches ahead, a sublime site. The descent is very steep on a switchbacking trail of loose scree, and can be slippery if there is snow on the pass. Once down the initial steep descent, the trail descends more gradually on rolling hills, and soon the airport of Thongde, and then Ngawal, come into view.

Ngawal is a wonderful, old village of cobbled streets, prayer wheels, decorative water-spouts and beautiful architecture, obviously a hub of religious activity in previous times. (8 – 9 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 

Day 12 – Trek Manang 3500m
An easy day after yesterday’s challenging crossing of the Kang La pass! Leaving Ngawal though the exit chorten, we contour around a hillside as we descend gradually, heading north on a two hour walk through open forest to Braga, an old Tibetan style village of about 150 partially deserted houses. We have time to explore the old village of Braga, with the wonderful Braga Gompa perched colorfully above the stacked houses. The monastery has an elaborate collection of thangkas and statues, and it is worth finding the key-keeper to open the assembly hall and ‘lha khangs’ for us. Braga also has an impressive collection of traditional architectural details, so keep your eyes open for beautifully carved wooden windows and doors. The prayer wheels and chorten at the foot of Braga are particularly brightly painted.

From Braga, continue to hike for 20 minutes, past a series of unique and colorful chortens to Manang, a village of 500 or so flat-roofed houses, the headquarters for the region, and an interesting village packed with trekkers, bakeries and lodges. Manang is dominated by high peaks, towered over by Annapurna lll and Gangapurna with the Gangapurna Glacier across the Marsyangdi. There is an old gompa on the edge of town, many local teahouses, and some atmospheric, winding streets in the village leading out toward the Thorung La. We spend the night at Tashi Ghale + his wife Ongmo’s Mountain View Lodge. Tashi is a world renown snow leopard, wildlife and mountain photographer. Visit his website, Tales Beyond the Mountain.

There is a 3 o’clock lecture on altitude by the Himalayan Rescue Association for anyone interested, a worthwhile way to spend the afternoon. (2 – 3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance:

Day 13 – Manang
An acclimatization day in wonderful Manang, with many options. Tashi can also offer suggestions as he’s explored every meter of this incredible region. (B, L, D)

MANANG OPTIONS | A long day-hike to the Ice Lake, a visit to the ‘Hundred Ruppee Lama’ at the cave gompa above Manang, a two-hour hike to Milarepa’s cave across the river from Braga, the HRA talk, or a tour of Manang’s many bakeries. A hike up 300 meters or so for acclimatization is recommended, but nothing too strenuous is required. The guest house is wonderful, a sunny and warm place to gaze at the peaks in the afternoon.
________

Optional Tilicho Lake Trek | 2 – 3 Days

Trek Tilicho Base Camp
Today’s trek is about six hours; from Manang, we cross to the east side of the Marsyangdi River and then head into the ‘interior’ of the Annapurna circuit to Tilicho Base Camp. In the morning, we will take the three hour walk out to Tilicho Lake itself. (B, L, D)
Disance: 

Trek to Tilicho Lake. Return to Mid-Camp, Khangsar or Manang
We start early for the three hour walk out to the spectacular Tilicho Lake; it can be cold and windy, so dress warmly. We’ll return to ‘base camp’ for lunch, and then return to either Mid-Camp, Manang or Khangsar from where there is an intersecting trail back to the Annapurna Circuit. (B, L, D)
Distance:
________

Day 14 – Trek Ledar 4300m
It’s not a long day but we do gain altitude so will hike slowly and enjoy the world-class scenery! En route, we will undoubtedly be passed along the trail by galloping Manangi horses, saddled with wonderful (and expensive) Tibetan wool saddle blankets, and their jubilant Manangi riders, bells jingling as they gallop by. Keep an eye out for herds of blue sheep, actually wild mountain goats, in the craggy hills above the trails. This is also classic snow leopard territory!

Climb past Tengi and Gunsang to Yak Kharka, where you’ll stop for lunch at one of the lodges, and then continut another 45 minutes to arrive in tiny Ledar, where you stay at an alpine-style guest house with views to match. Rest up! (11 km, 5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 

Day 15 – Trek Thorung Phedi 4535m or High Camp 4885m
A deceptively challenging hike through increasingly tundra-like landscapes, heading towards Tibetan territory! You’re headed to Thorung Phedi (often called Thorung Base Camp) where you’ll arrive in time for lunch. Depending on the group’s acclimatization rate you may opt to stay lower at Thorung Phedi. If everyone is feeling okay, you can hike the hour and a half (maximum) and 300 meters up to Thorung Phedi High Camp, worth the effort for the spectacular sunsets and easier day tomorrow.

Either way, you will be in bed early after dinner for an early morning start for tomorrow’s crossing of the Thorung La pass (5415m). Again, if anyone  has any problems at this altitude it’s an easy hike back down to Base Camp, where you stay at a nice lodge to with sun, glass windows and with occasional blue sheep sightings. (7 km BC, 8 km HC, 3 1/2 – 5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance:

Day 16 – Trek to Muktinath 3800m or Jharkot 3535m | Coss Thorung La 5415m 
Up early for the three or four hour walk to the top of the Thorung La at 5400m, where we are treated with spectacular views over Mustang and the surrounding peaks. The descent is almost as demanding as the ascent to the top of the pass, so a cup of chai and a snack at the local tea house at Chabarbu, at the bottom of the descent, is a required stop. And on to lower Mustang, which we have actually reached just after the pass, and the serene temple complex of Muktinath.

Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. We stay just five minutes down the trail from Muktinath at Ranipauwa. (7-9 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 14 – 16 km

TREK NOTE | Generally we suggest continuing half and hour+ down the trail to more scenic Jarkhot as Muktinath can be a bit overwhelming with all the new Hindu pilgrims, who come by road to visit Muktinath. Jharkot is a more traditional Mustangi village, bustling and incredibly beautiful in the evening light. 

Day 17 – Trek Kagbeni 2800m & Jomsom 2720m
Today’s lovely trek heads south through traditional Mustangi villages where you’ll find local apples in the Autumn and watch the traditional back-loom weaving techniques being practiced by the local women. If you’re stopped at Muktinath, half an hour down the trail, Jharkot is an old Mustangi village with a medieval atmosphere, a Shakya gompa which is a traditional medicine center and incredibly photogenic whitewashed houses and streets. Further along the trail at Khingar, we might visit the local school. The scenery is truly wonderful: soft light, patchworks of fields, peaks overhead, villagers out plowing the fields, horses tethered next to the houses, and apple trees providing texture to the landscape.

After a steep descent, we reach the windy Kali Gandaki (called the Thak Khola by the locals) river valley where it intersects the Jhong Khola, and the last village in lower Mustang, the atmospheric oasis of Kagbeni. The mud-packed houses, prayer wheels, narrow, stone streets, covered alleyways, chortens and old brick-hued gompa dominating the village and guarding the river intersections are reminiscent of old Mustang, and those who wanted to venture further can wander across the river to the Mustangi villages officially off limits but easily accessible. At the Trekker’s Lodge in the lower section of Jomsom near the airport hot showers await. Stick your heads out of your rooms to see the sunrise on Niligiri before breakfast. Himalayan sunrises and sunsets are one of the many things that remind us of why we’ve come all this way, and endured these hard, cold trekking days! (B, L, D)
Distance: 

TREK NOTE | You have the option to skip Kagbeni and trek directly to Jomsom, or to hire a jeep for any portion of this hike

Day 18 – Trek Marpha 2680m or Tukuche 2590m
We have a nice morning’s walk down the Kali Gandaki riverbed, looking for saligrams along the way, to Jomsom, the administrative center for the region. The Kali Gandaki valley gets incredibly windy in the early afternoon, so important to arrive before noon; we’ll have lunch in Jomsom, and there is a bank if anyone needs to change money. Then another few hours to Marpha along the same riverbed. Marpha is a white-washed village of cobbled streets, small shops, horses and donkeys, a recently rebuilt gompa and caves above the village, and a wonderful place to stop for the evening. (2 – 3 hrs) (B, L, D)

TREK NOTE | You may opt to continue on to slightly less crowded and equally scenic and interesting Tukuche, about an hour’s walk from Marpha.

Day 19 – Trek Kalapani 2530m
Back on the trail, and a longer day again today, but a great walk with incredible Himalayan views throughout. Passing the Thakali villages of Kobang and Larjung, where the Kali Gandaki River widens, cross the river on a bridge and continue on a trail on the eastern side of the river and finally cross again to Kalapani (translated as ‘cold water’), where you’ll stay in a lodge for the night. Note that this section of riverbed is known for its ‘heart rocks’. (5 – 7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 

Day 20 – Trek Tatopani Hot Springs 1190m
Another long day, but well worth the effort to get to Tatopani, where the double hot springs are situated scenically next to the riverbed, well-deserved massages are offered by the hot springs, the bakeries are heaven, oranges and lemons fall from the fruit trees and the monkeys play across the river. (B, L, D)
Distance:

Day 21 – Trek Ghorepani 2920m
Get ready for some more hills! Today’s walk is a hot one, and quite strenuous as we branch off after an hour of walking from Tatopani from the trail heading to Beni, and take the Ghorepani trail, starting straight up hill. (5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance:

Day 22 – Trek Tadapani 2630m
Those who want can hike up Poon Hill for a 360 degree Himalayan panorama; after breakfast, we have a half day’s walk to Tadapani, where we’ll be treated to spectacular views of Machapuchare. Watch for monkeys on the way up! (4 1/2 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance:

Day 23 – Trek Gandruk 1940m
We descend through an old, open forest towards the village of Gandruk. Eventually you leave forest and trek up towards the Himalayan peaks ahead. The trail passes through small hamlets, terraced rice fields and forests with spectacular views of the surrounding valley. The grassy trail lined with ferns and sub-tropical trees ascends after the village, and after crossing a few small streams and contouring around terraced hillsides you’ll reach the hillside village of Gandruk in the early afternoon. The slate-roofed village of Gandruk was once a popular recruitment location for the Gurkha soldier regiments. Villagers today craft traditional hand-woven rugs as they have for generations, and also participate in ecological endeavors via the Annapurna Conservation Area Project.

Spend the afternoon exploring this fascinating and bustling Gurung village, a labyrinth of narrow alleyways, white-washed, slate-roofed houses with porches and traditionally-carved windows, water buffaloes in thatched huts, and open slate patios. Enjoy the magnificent views of the Annapurnas from the lodge, or hike up a bit along the cobbled steps for sunset views in the evening. Annapurna South and Hiunchuli dominate the horizon while Macchupucchre resembles a fishtail. Annapurna l and Gangapurna are just visible in the distance if the weather is clear. (5-6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance:

Gandruk | Optional Extra Day
Enjoy a full day of spectacular mountain panoramas (Machhapuchhre, or Fish Tail peak), experience the unique Gurung culture and cuisine of Gandruk, and visit some of the local Hindu temples above the village. There is a lot to keep one busy in this picturesque village, and the villagers are friendly, always ready for a laugh or a chat. Gandruk is perhaps the largest and most prosperous village in the Annapurna foothills region, with two interesting museums, local restaurants featuring their unique Gurung cuisine and many guest houses. Wander through Gandruk’s stone paths, returning to the Himalayan Lodge for a traditional lunch, and enjoy a rosy Himalayan sunset in the late afternoon, pure heaven! 

Day 24 – Trek Naya Pul 1025m| Drive Pokhara
A golden, scenic last day of trekking through the terraced rice fields below Gandruk on the way to Kimche. We can look back on the way up to Annapurna Base Camp, far above. About four hours should be enough for us to make it to Naya Pul (new bridge), where we check out of the Annapurna Sanctuary Area, cross the bridge, and catch our ride back to Pokhara, just an hour or so down the road. We spend the night in at Lakeview Resort (with the option to upgrade to Temple Tree Resort + Spa), enjoy a hot shower, and perhaps head out for dinner to Moondance Cafe. (B)
Distance:

Extra Day – Pokhara
There is endless opportunity to spend extra time in Pokhara, so at least one day in this balmy city, Nepal’s second largest, is a must post trek. Options including a stroll part way around Phewa Lake, paragliding or zip-lining from Sarankot, paddling on the lake, a morning hike up to Shanti Stupa via a short canoe trip, a cycling trip to the end of the lake (many options) or a day of shopping for the creative locally produced crafts along Lakeside.

Day 25 – Fly Kathmandu
After a bountiful buffet breakfast, you’ll board the morning flight back to Kathmandu (with options to stay extra days in Pokhara). You have the afternoon in Kathmandu for shopping, relaxing in the garden of the hotel, last minute shopping or perhaps a visit to Boudhanath for some ‘koras’ to give thanks for the safe journey in the mountains. (B)

Day 26 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA
We send you off to the airport for your flight home. Namaste! (B)

Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! to put together the perfect journey.

Mountain biking, rafting, vespa tours or yoga retreats around the Kathmandu valley or Pokhara, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic capital cities), a visit to the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas, an Everest sightseeing flight, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining in Pokhara, a spa & wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park Wildlife Safari & Tharu Villages (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or five-star treatment in historic Dwarika’s in Kathmandu.

Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these excursions for you, just inquire!

Dates
Custom Departures
19 Days 
26 Days

Trek Price
$2980 
+ 19 Days
+ Includes Jomsom – Pokhara – Kathmandu Flights

$3680
+26 Days
+ Includes Pokhara – Kathmandu Flight

+ Tilicho Extension – $250
+ Hotel Single Supplement Traditional Hotels – $200
+ Hotel Single Supplement Luxury Hotels – Inquire
+ Lodge Single Supplement – $200
+ Pokhara + Chitwan Extension – $595

Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades 
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

Other Options
+ Super Deluxe Room Dwarika’s (+$1050 Single +$600 Double Per Person)
+ Upgrade Temple Tree Resort + Spa in Pokhara (+$95 Single +$65 Double Per Person)
+ Extra Trek Day Gandruk (+105)
+ Extra Day Chitwan (+$125 Single +$100 Double Per Person)
+ Paragliding in Pokhara (+Inquire)
+ Everest Sightseeing Flight (including transport to + from airport) (+$250 PP)
+ Extension Shivapuri Heights Cottage (+$75 – $150 depending on room + season Per Room)
+ Cycling Trip in Kathmandu Valley (+Inquire)

Includes

• Kathmandu Guest House, Kantipur Temple House or Dwarika’s in Kathmandu
• Lake View Resort, Shangri La Resort or Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara
• Domestic flights on Yeti Airlines
• Departure tax
• Airport pick-ups & drops
• ACAP permit
• TIMS card
• Private car to Chitwan
• Kamzang Lodge Trekking: All meals from lodge menu, herbal teas and French press coffee, double rooms at lodges, small medical kit, porters & Nepali guide

Excludes

• International flights
• Travel or travel medical insurance
• Nepal visa
• Meals in Kathmandu (while not on trek)
• Helicopter rescue cost
• Equipment rental
• Alcohol & soft drinks
• Showers & hot water bottles
• Laundry
• Tipping & other items of a personal nature

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $200 for meals (while not on trek), shopping & drinks (on trek). We recommend $100-$150 per trekker divided between the staff for tips.

Trip Advisor Reviews

Client Highlights
Travelers’ Comments

Trip Highlights

• Kathmandu World Heritage Sites
• Lower Annapurnas Trek
• Spectacular Himalayan Panoramas + Traditional Villages
• Chitwan National Park + Wildlife Safaris
• Pokhara + Phewa Lake
• Opportunities for Spa + Massage
• Optional Everest Sightseeing Flight

Client Comments
Kim arranged a solo trek for me at very short notice in November 2013 – and did it even whilst most of them were leading another trek in Mustang! They made the complex easy. From a wonderful guide to helping me arrange evacuation when I got sick, I was always in knowledeable, kind, efficient hands. I recommend Kamzang Journeys without reservation and I’ll be using them when I return to Nepal in September 2014!
– Nick A (UK), Private Everest Trek 2013

Tsering Sherpa is marvelous, extremely responsible, serious, devoted, very thoughtful, discreet and very pleasant to trek with. He is very helpful, well travelled, speaks good English, is well-mannered and has a good experience as a mountaineer and a climber.  He is very powerful, strong and quick, and smiles a lot! He seems to know everybody on the trail, is active in his community and is respected by other Sherpas. On trek he was a good counsellor on food, and of course respectful of tradition and of the Tibetan Buddhist faith. With him we felt very secure as he knows the trail and all the short cuts.
– Nan & Odette (France), Private Everest Base Camp Trek 2014

Viney was my private guide to trek to Everest base camp in October 2013.  I felt very secure with him the entire time.  He was always attentive to my wellbeing from the time we started in x (kim pls fill in) where we ended up slogging through rainfall and mud due to the cyclone left over from India, all the way through to the end of our trip in Lukla.  I could count on him without a doubt every day of the entire 3 weeks we spent together.  Thanks to Viney for an excellent trek!
– Lori C (USA), Private Everest High Passes Trek 2014

Last May I spent almost three weeks hiking with Mingma in the Khumbu region of Nepal and we explored the Gokyo lakes, Gokyo valley and we climbed Gokyo Ri. Mingma is an experienced mountain-guide, knows all the summits in the region, the Sherpas and routes.  He is responsive of the challenges, strong and kind, but he is very calm in case of difficult situations. While we walked together, he was attentive and he always tried to accommodate my phyisical condition and my spiritual eagerness. We spent wonderful time together and I immensely enjoyed every moment of the trek. I am planning to walk with him again in 2015!
– Kati K (Hungary), Private Gokyo Lakes Trek 2014

Tashi was the perfect guide for me. I was going solo, and looking mostly for solitude; Tashi’s temperament was the perfect match for mine. When he had something to say, it seemed eerily to come right when I was about to ask him a question about the very thing he started to speak about! He has a real passion for the natural world he lives in and for the Sherpa people and their traditions, too. I ended up falling ill with something and here again Tashi was the perfect guide – helpful but not smothering or overly-solicitous. I will be back, and with my family and I’m certain to request that Tashi accompanies us when we return.
– Nick A-H (UK), Private Everest Base Camp Trek 2013

Thanks for looking after my friends Ian & Adam so well! They were really pleased and very impressed with the arrangements made by Kamzang Journeys and particularly pleased with the guide, Karma, who did a wonderful job of looking after them on their trek. Everything went to their satisfaction and it exceeded their expectations. He’s now got a taste of Nepal and thinking about doing another trek there sometime!
– Viv D, friend of Paul & Patrick, Private Annapurna Peaks & Villages, Helambu Trek 2014

I have traveled the world and I have never been as cared for as I was in my trek in Nepal.  Karma was beyond attentive and professional. He has become family. The very best of Nepal and mankind can be found in this young man.
– Dave M, Annapurna Peaks & Villages 2013

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip + Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Online Articles Nar Phu
Nar Phu | ECS Magazine
Into Thin Air | How to Spend It
Bhotia Highlanders of Nar & Phyu – Albinger Files

Online Articles the Annapurnas
Annapurna Region | BBC
Last Footfall in Nepal | New York Times
Annapurna Massif | Wikipedia

Royal Chitwan National Park

History
Royal Chitwan National Park has long been one of the country’s treasures of natural wonders. The park is situated in south central Nepal, covering 932 square kilometers in the subtropical lowlands of the inner Terai. The area comprising the Tikauli forest, from Rapti river to the foothills of the Mahabharat, extends for an area of 175 square kilometers and was declared Mahendra Mriga Kunj (Mahendra Deer Park) by the late King Mahendra in 1959. In 1963, the area south of Rapti River was demarcated as a rhinoceros sanctuary. The area was gazetted as the country’s first national park in 1973. Recognizing its unique ecosystems of international significance, UNESCO declared RCNP a World Heritage Site in 1984. In 1996, an area of 750 square kilometers surrounding the park was declared a buffer zone which consists of forests and private lands. The park and the local people jointly initiate community development activities and manage natural resources in the buffer zone. The government has made a provision of plowing back 30-50 percent of the park revenue for community development in the buffer zone.

Features
The Chitwan valley consists of tropical and subtropical forests. Sal forests cover 70 percent of the park. Sal leaves are used locally for plates in festivals and religious offerings. Grasslands cover 20 percent of the park. There are more than 50 different types of grasses, including the elephant grass (Saccharum spp.), renowned for its immense height, growing up to 8 meters in height. The shorter grasses (imperata) are used for roof thatching as well as mats, rope and paper making.

A total of 68 species of mammals, 56 species of herpeto fauna and 126 species of fish have been recorded in the park. The park is especially renowned for its protection of one-horned rhinoceros, gaur, royal Bengal tiger, wild elephant, four-horned antelope, pangolin, gangetic dolphin, gharial crocodile, golden monitor lizard and python. The park harbors not only the world’s largest terrestrial mammal (wild elephant) but also the world’s smallest terrestrial mammal (pygmy shrew). A total of 544 species of birds has been recorded so far including 22 globally threatened species including critically endangered Bengal florican, slender-billed vulture, white rumped vulture and red headed vulture.

The park houses a diversity of ecosystems, including the Churia hills, ox-bow lakes, and the flood plains of the Rapti, Reu and Narayani Rivers. The Churia hills rise slowly towards the east from 150 meters to more than 800 meters. The western portion of the park is comprised of the lower but more rugged Someshwor hills. The park shares its eastern boundary with the Parsa Wildlife Reserve.

Tharus are the main indigenous ethnic groups in Chitwan. They are well known for their resistance to malaria. Traditionally they are farmers and practice their own unique tribal culture. A stroll or a ride through the Tharu village will provide an opportunity to see their traditional farming and relics. Traditional Tharu stick dance gives an insight into their culture

Climate
Conditions are subtropical with a summer monsoon from mid-June to late-September, and a relatively dry winter. Mean annual rainfall is 2400mm with about 90% falling in the monsoon from June to September. Monsoon rains cause dramatic floods and changes in the character and courses of rivers. Temperatures are highest (maximum 38°C) during this season and drop to a minimum of 6°C in the post-monsoon period (October to January), when dry northerly winds from the Himalaya and Tibetan Plateau are prevalent.

Trip Photos
Chitwan National Park

Annapurna Circuit Trek
From the steamy Hindu middle hills of central Nepal to Buddhist high-country dwellers on the border of Tibet, from terraced fields and fruit trees to vistas dominated by 8000 meter peaks, from lush, riverside hot springs to arid, mountainous Mustangi landscapes, from sacred Hindu temple complexes and thatched huts to whitewashed Thakali villages and ancient Manangi Buddhist monasteries, from water buffaloes to yaks, the Annapurna circuit trek in the heart of the Nepal Himalaya is a cultural trek par excellence, without a doubt one of the best treks in Nepal.

This is a classic tea-house trek run in our unique Kamzang-style. Instead of camping out in the cold, we enjoy the dining-room stoves and famed hospitality of the local people of the Annapurna region, our gear is carried by porters, and we have local guides to explain the various cultures, mountains and sights to us along the way. But don’t be fooled into thinking that there are no challenges along the way! We cross one of the highest trekking passes in the Nepal Himalayas, cover many kilometers of both hills and high altitude trekking, and spend three weeks deep in the Himalaya. This trek is one of Nepal’s classic treks for good reasons.

Accompanied by views of the Annapurna range, Manaslu, Machapuchare, Tilicho and the Chulu Peaks and Dhaulagiri (to name just a few), we trek up the Marshyangdi river, first passing by Chettri and Gurung villages, followed by a few Tibetan settlements, to the Buddhist region of Manang, where riding on horseback is the normal means of transport, and the villages are interlocked terraces perched below old, Buddhist gompas. Manang is a destination in itself, with ice-lakes, cliff-side monasteries and old villages to explore, not to mention the spectacular sunrise and sunset views. To the west, in the interior of the Annapurna Circuit, is Tilicho Lake. surrounded by snow-peaks. We spend an extra couple of days hiking out to get a view of the lake …

Following a careful acclimatization program, we trek over the 5400 meter Thorung La Pass and descend steeply down to Muktinath, a sacred Hindu and Buddhist pilgrimage site ,and on to lower Mustang. Kagbeni, the entrance to Upper Mustang, Jomsom, the administrative center and airport, scenic Marpha with its whitewashed, colorful houses and old monastery and caves and into the Thakali village of Tukuche, with yet another old Buddhist gompa and cobbled streets. Further south, the scenery becomes more thickly wooded as we follow the famed Kali Gandiki river gorge downstream, and different mountain views emerge, dominated by Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Peak.

Trekking south, we re-enter Nepal’s middle hills, passing wheat and paddy fields, apple and apricot trees of lower the lower Thakali region, stopping to enjoy the famed Tatopani hot springs. Further ups and downs through ancient, open forests bring us to Ghorepani, where we are treated at sunrise to 360 degree mountain panoramas. Back down through the golden, terraced Gurung villages of Gandruk, dominated by Machapuchare, the ‘Fish Tailed’ mountain, we finally continue on to the end of the circuit at Naya Pul and drive to Pokhara, where we spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing before heading out for a celebratory dinner and a few beers!

Annapurna Foothills Trek | Poon Hill
The beautiful Lower Annapurnas (Annapurna foothills) trek starts just 25 kilometers north of Pohara, and is often referred to as the Poon Hill trek because of the incredible sunrise Himalayan panoramas from this viewpoint above Ghorepani. Macchapuchare (Fish Tail Peak) is the most renown mountain in this region, an unmistakable peak which rises above the clouds. Views from Poon Hill are awe inspiring, and include the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges: Annapurna South, Annapurna I, Annapurna II, III, + IV, Dhaulagiri, Lamjung Himal, Gangapurna and Manaslu!

Our Annapurna Peaks & Villages Trek features terraced slopes, green rice paddies, rhododendron forests, local cultures and traditional Gurung and Magar villages, Ghorepani and Gandruk being two of the largest Gurung villages in the Annapurna region. It’s a wonderful, shorter low altitude trek in the lower Annapurna region is the perfect introduction to the diversity and excitement of trekking in Nepal. We start the Nepal trek in steamy Hindu villages, where water buffaloes wallow in the rivers, colorful, sari-clad women sit and weave by thatched huts, and villagers perform ancient rituals to appease their local deities. The sub-tropical forests come alive with an immense variety of bird life, waterfalls thunder down from steep cliff sides and monkeys chatter from the tree-tops.

Trekking higher into the green, terraced hills we wander through ancient, mossy rhododendron forests to reach the cooler Buddhist and animistic middle hills, where chortens and prayer flags send prayers out to the gods and the Gurung and Magar inhabitants look more Tibetan than Nepali. Terraced fields and tropical fruit trees surround the neat, white-washed Gurung villages of the higher regions, leading the eye to vistas dominated by some of the Himalaya’s most majestic peaks. The Annapurna region is truly the heart of the Nepal Himalaya.

Nar Phu
The Nar Phu valleys combines high peaks and passes, glaciers, remote villages, narrow canyons, lovely forests, amazing rock formations, yaks, gompas and two remote Tibetan villages (Nar & Phu). Two long days of walking from the border of Tibet, this region was first explored by Tillman in the 1950s. Closed to trekkers until late 2002, very few westerners have explored these virtually untouched villages or climbed the many 7000m peaks surrounding it. Along with spending plenty of time at these colorful and timeless villages, we explore the high alpine valleys above Phu (including Himlung Base Camp for those who want to), and then from Nar cross the Kang La to Ngawal on the upper Pisang route leading back into the Annapurna circuit.

Poon Hill + Gandruk Trek Accompanied by views of Annapurna South, Machhapuchhre, Hiunchuli and Lamjung Himal, we trek in the heart of the Annapurna circuit. From Deurali, the amazing mountain views begin, and we contour through traditional villages to reach the bustling Gurung villages of Landruk and Gandruk. At Poon Hill, near Ghorepani, we are treated to a 360-degree sunrise Himalayan panorama. Back down through golden, terraced villages dominated by Machhapuchhre, the ‘Fish Tailed’ mountain, we continue to hike through Ulleri to the end of the circuit at Naya Pul and drive to Pokhara.

This is a classic tea-house trek run in our special Kamzang-style; instead of camping out in the cold, we enjoy the dining-room stoves and famed hospitality of the local people of the Annapurna region, our gear is carried by porters, and we have local guides to explain the various cultures, mountains and sights to us along the way.

Finishing back in Kathmandu, it’s been a wonderful journey through diverse regions and landscapes of one of the most spectacular regions of the Himalaya!
Annapurna Peaks + Villages Trek | Poon Hill – Nepal

Chitwan National Park | Wildlife Safari Extension
Optional Trip from Pokhara
Enjoy a visit to Chitwan National Park, staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, owned and operated by the Kathmandu Guest House. Chitwan is home to the Bengal Tiger and Asian one-horned Rhino as well as a large variety of rare bird and wildlife, and a lovely national park surrounded by traditional Tharu villages. If you have an extra day on hand we will adjust so that you have time to sit on the breezy deck with a book, rent bikes to explore the traditional thatched hut Tharu villages, where water buffaloes laze under tropical skies. Or to continue with the river paddles, spotting more varieties of Kingfishers.
Chitwan National Park Wildlife Safari & Tharu Villages