Wild Manaslu & Tibetan Tsum Valley Camping Trek
Nepal Himalayan Trek

Wild Manaslu & Tibetan Tsum Valley Camping Trek – Nepal Himalayan Trekking
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it. Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks.

Day 2 – Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing Tour
Morning meeting at 9 AM in the back garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to collect passports, insurance information and photos, and go over some of our trek details and logistics. Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (see Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples.

We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. Option to visit Boudhanath Stupa, Cafe Caravan and have dinner at Roadhouse Boudhanath overlooking the stupa. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepalis circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts and often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Extra Day | Drive Gorkha 1510m | Gorkha Farm House & Explore Gorkha Durbar (Palace)
We board private vehicles for our scenic drive from Kathmandu to the Gurung village of Gorkha in Nepal’s steamy middle hills, driving along the Prithvi Highway and following the Trisuli River. Gorkha was once the capital of a massive kingdom that included parts of lower Tibet, and is dominated by an impressive ‘durbar’, or fortress-palace complex, predominately Hindu with frequent animal sacrifices in the name of Durga or Kali in its several old Hindu temples. The fort is perched high up in the surrounding hillsides and reached by nearly an hour of hiking up worn stone steps, often with other Nepali Hindu pilgrims, an extremely photographic afternoon!

We’ll drive 6 km outside of Gorkha and stay at the rustic Gorkha Farm House, an organic coffee farm and guesthouse in the Gorkha hills, with wonderful mountain views! Take advantage of a chance for a sun-downer while we’re in Nepal’s steamy middle hills, and still low in altitude. (5 hrs drive)

LOWER MANASLU
Day 3 – Drive Barpak 1915m
We board private vehicles for the scenic drive from Kathmandu to the Gorkha region, driving along the Prithvi Highway and following the Trishuli River, one of the major tributaries of the Narayani River basin in central Nepal. Once past the turnoff to Gorkha Durbar, the palace of the once-capital of Nepal, we continue to drive through the Gorkha (Lower Manaslu) region along a newly built jeep road, heading north past our old campsite at Arkole village, with vivid green rice paddies, roadside teahouses and over small rivers, on to the small hamlet of Rangrung. At Rangrung Phedi (875m) we continue driving up the switch backing road, built in 2009, to the Gurung village of Barpak. The roads skirt the densely forested hillside, filled with rhododendrons, bauhenia, and other large, leafy trees. These are specific to the Gurung and Rai people, both Buddhist with an animist/shamanistic history which still lives on today. We continue to ascend, contouring around tilled wheat fields to reach the ancient chortens that mark the lower reaches of Barpak village. The still incredibly scenic village of Barpak, situated perfectly on a green ridge overlooking the misty valley below, was the epicenter of the 2015 earthquake. The village suffered massive damage, nearly all of the houses destroyed, and some inhabitants killed though fortunately most were out of the house mid-day.

Barpak is a Ghale (royalty) Gurung village, extremely clean, with a weekly market, wide alleys between the houses, grain and vegetables drying outside on the patios, several shops, a new school, a soccer field, viewpoints and flowers planted along the decks of these Gurung houses. Many of its men joined the Ghurkha Army, returned to Barpak with new wealth, and have built lovely houses. We arrive in time for lunch, and have the afternoon to wander the narrow streets of the village, a photographer’s paradise. Note the locally woven ‘bakus’, a felted wool poncho which most men wear to keep the rain and cold away, and the men carrying hemp rope bags. The village is full of women weaving on wooden looms, spinning and carding as well as grains drying in traditional flat baskets.

Across the steep valley, the hillsides are peppered with other terraced villages. Barpak is towered over by Baudha Himal (6672m), a high, snow-capped peak that makes for wonderful sunrise and sunset photos. We camp at the Barpak Secondary School, surprisingly clean and grassy, and at the many shop, you can find a cold beer or drink and sometimes local crafts. (7 hrs drive) (B, L, D)
Distance:168km

Day 4 – Trek Laprak 2200m | Cross Laprak La 2820m
After breakfast we start on our picturesque climb right out of town, heading towards the Laprak La pass, with Baudha Himal providing a spectacular backdrop to the sprawling, scenic Barpak as we hike up along the narrow ridge. Along the way, we trek past Gurung memorial ‘chautaras’, or rest stops, with carved stone seats. Ascending on old stone steps and passing the earthquake memorial, we reach grassy kharkas (seasonal grazing settlements) and look out at the tilled hillsides and impossibly perched Gurung villages across the many deep valleys. Our trail is often stone steps, alternating with hard-packed dirt and stony trail, which crosses the new road to Laprak several times. From the viewpoint half an hour before the pass, with flocks of sheep grazing on the grassy hillsides, we are rewarded with panoramic mountain views which are better than at the actual pass itself. Baudha Himal (6672m), Sringi (Shringi) Himal (7160m), the Ganesh Himal range, and the Langtang range all span the horizon. The rhododendrons are blooming brilliantly in many hues of white, pink and red, lovely foreground for photos with the snow peaks in back. We eventually reach the small teahouse where we stop for our first packed lunch of the trek, and a hot cup of tea.

Another 10-15 minutes hiking along the flat road, with rhododendrons blooming around us, adding color to the densely forested woods below us and we reach the small the Laprak La (2820m), which separates Laprak and Barpak. Descending on more stone steps, we pass right through the post-earthquake settlement of 500+ matching homes built for the Laprak villagers, and another steep hour or two of trekking between tilled fields, past local kharkas, we again cross the road. And the ‘Epicenter Trail’ …

More steep steps, passing villagers with loads of wood, grass, leaves or children returning from school, we finally reach the upper reaches of Laprak, a large, closely packed Gurung village of five hundred houses, these days more scenic than Barpak and even more interesting as it wasn’t as haphazardly developed after the earthquake, and many of the original houses are still standing. The Maoists used to stay in this village, and the villagers would often offer some friendly indoctrination when we passed through years ago. We camp at a lodge in the upper reaches of the village at the school, with the afternoon free to explore the village (far) below.

Take a walk down the hill on the stone steps leading to the lower village and a look into some of the houses, several connected by wooden decks, all with symbolic murals on the mud-brick walls and family photographs over the doors. Medicinal roots are often drying on the decks, and millet and barley are spread in low baskets. Again, many women will be on their standing or back-strap looms weaving the long strips of wool for their bakus (waterproof rain blankets). The villagers are friendly, and there is lots to explore in Laprak’s winding maze of small lanes, perhaps visiting some of the local houses. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.5km

Day 5 – Trek Korla Ridge Camp 1935m | via Singla
A long, classic ‘middle hills’ Himalayan trekking day, the steep hillsides peppered with traditional Nepali villages and their extensive fields, all of it spectacular, but hard on the knees (trekking poles highly recommended). Descending steeply for 500 meters on muddy stone steps through the maze of Laprak village, we pass villagers out early on their decks, taking advantage of the morning sun, with wheat, barley and buckwheat laid out on straw mats. We continue to descend steeply, switchbacking through corn, wheat and barley fields to the river. After crossing the river on a suspension bridge (next to the old, very rickety one), we climb equally steeply back up, past terraced fields of pink sorghum and rice with wild raspberries growing along the trail, and wheat husks burning on the fields to make fertilizer. During the morning we trek far above the Macha Khola, which we follow for most of the day. We contour around several hillsides on a narrow trail, barely visible at times, up to a small chorten just below the village of Singla from where we’re treated to views of Manaslu Himal, and Ganesh Himal I to the back.

We often have lunch at this lovely spot, with the option afterward to hike up a short ways and visit Singla, a village of 200+ houses which has a connection to French trekking companies. Leaving the village, we descend past a prayer-flag adorned spring tap on cement steps to reach a village chorten, and continue to the main trail. Trekking through more terraced fields, we climb and descend on the trail through wooded hillsides, with birds singing in the green tree limbs, and ascend on more stone steps and reach a plateau that seems to extend into an expanse of nothingness.

Finally, after quite a long day we reach our Korla Ridge Camp, where the staff have set up a scenic campsite, with a viewpoint platform constructed just ahead. In 2022, we trekked with many Maoist ‘cadres’ on their way to vote at the local elections, Communist flags fluttering as they hiked, and met them for photos at this viewpoint. (7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.63km

MANASLU
Day 6 – Trek Jagat & Yaru (Yaruphant) River Camp 1275m
We start the Himalayan trekking day with a long descent from Korla Ridge Camp, all the way down to the Budhi Gandaki River! After about twenty minutes of descending on steep stone steps, we reach the Gurung village of Korla (875m). More steep downhill hiking ahead, during which the landscape becomes more sub-tropical as we pass through the middle of the tilled fields of two small hamlets, past a small hamlet with lovely, contoured rocks. Finally, we reach an extremely steep set of stone steps which leads to a long suspension bridge across the Nimrung Khola and on to our old campsite at Korlebesi on the Budhi Gandaki River.

The road building has marred the beautiful landscape a bit, modernity encroaching on Nepal’s otherwise pristine Himalayan regions, but we have plenty of time away from this new road later in the day. Passing through Korlebesi, where local women weave straw mats on their doorsteps, we continue to trek along the Budhi Gandaki, trekking by tobacco and buckwheat fields, past rocks washed smooth by the river, often climbing up stone steps. Hiking with large mule and pony trains (and their accompanying flies), we reach newly renovated hot springs in the center of the small, terraced village of Tatopani (which translates as ‘hot water’), about 45 minutes from Korlebesi. We have plenty of time to soak in the gushing hot water streaming out of sculpted spouts –bring a towel, soap and something for a wash!

A gentle climb through the woods, past spectacular waterfalls and sculpted rocks, brings us to a suspension bridge crossing the Budhi Gandaki. Note the remains of the old bridges in this precipitous valley! We continue hiking along a forested path on the opposite side of the river and soon reach Dobhan, where we cross the Dobhan Khola on another suspension bridge.

Above Dobhan, the Budhi Gandaki descends in an impressive series of steep cataracts with water and weather-sculpted rocks along the riverside, passing through a tangled green forest of trees, vines and flowers (including orchids), the dusty trail hugging the cliffside. We’ll share the trail with local sheep and goat herders and their flocks, the youngest of the flock slung in rope baskets over their shoulders. More steep steps along cliff walls to climb as the river descends even more steeply and stratified river rocks mark the route. It’s hot and there will be chances to stop at fly-blown Nepali bhattis (teahouses), shared with local farm animals, for a drink, snack and rest en route. The valley flattens a bit and after a short climb we reach a newer teahouse and campsite area, always a good spot for a cold drink. From here our trail climbs high above the river on a shaded trail through the forest, nearly 200 meters. Once at the top of the climb – where we’ve often stopped to watch the blasting of the road across the valley – we look below to see the river valley widening, the river making a large S turn and our campsite just along the river, an incredibly scenic Himalayan vista!

We descend to an ‘eye’ in the Budhi Gandaki at Yaru, where we stop at our campsite next to a cluster of bamboo teahouses just at the bottom of this wooded hillside and along the rocky ‘beach’. River birds abound, and there is another swimming and bathing spot on the Lauri River, a small stream which intersects the Budhi Gandaki. In 2019 we met a couple of local kids who had rescued some baby birds and were nursing them back to health in one of the nearby teahouses. Beers for a hot afternoon, and sometimes battery charging, also available in these small teahouses. (8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 13.73km

Day 7 – Trek Philim & Ekle Bhatti 1555m
Leaving Yaru River Camp, we have an easy hour along the right banks of the river, with an exciting elevated walkway (already broken – or ending in nothingness – in 2022) built into the cliffside far above the river, bringing us to yet another long, new suspension bridge crossing the Budhi Gandaki. Crossing the bridge, we climb high, descend past the campsites of lower Jagat, and then climb again on neat stone steps to enter Jagat, the entranceway to the Manaslu National Park where Lhakpa will check us in while we have a short break at our friends’ teahouse and shop at the start of the village (WiFi available). It is worth wandering around this beautiful, paved village, with ancient chortens in the center of the village, where village mothers’ groups have recorded how much they contributed to these paving schemes.

After descending a long series of stone steps back down to the river from Jagat village, we climb on slab steps along a terraced hill-side to the small hamlet of Saguleri, just past where we’ll have our first view of the impressive Shringi Himal (7187m). Beautiful red flame-leaf trees adorn the trail as we continue to climb and descend far above the river. We pass through the fly-blown paved village of Sirdibas, where the local children sell oranges in the autumn, and soon afterwards pass by the local water mill. Crossing the river again on a long, high suspension bridge at Gata Khola, we have a steep climb past green fields of wheat to reach Philim (1570m), the MCAP headquarters with a health post, a Japanese sponsored school and a micro-hydro plant. We arrive at Philim in time for lunch, and will spend an hour or two exploring the interesting upper levels of this Gurung village, with Chhyoling Sandu Gompa and its friendly care-taker family right at the top of the village.

The fascinating upper village’s Gurung inhabitants are quite poor, and often when camping in Philim we would spend the afternoon tending to wounds. Notice the chorten with the Maoist hammer and sickle in the center of the upper village, the kane chortens with murals inside and the intricately woven baskets which both the men and the women craft. The exquisite gold heirloom necklaces that adorn some of the women come from Barpak. Be careful of village dogs as they do sometimes bite (Kim has firsthand experience in this …), and do keep an eye on the skies as we’ve spotted golden eagles here.

After an interesting afternoon of wandering through beautiful and fascinating Philim, we exit along the main, paved trail we hike for 45 minutes, through corn and millet fields on a high trail over the Budhi Gandaki, to reach Ekle Bhatti (which means one teahouse) and our campsite on a lovely, green plateau overlooking this dramatic gorge. (6½ – 8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.7 km

TSUM VALLEY (CHEKAMPAR)
Day 8 – Trek Chumling 2280m | Helicopter Option from Kathmandu
Continuing on this spectacular, high trail, we hike above the right banks of the river through a narrow, dramatic gorge with towering walls, past a thundering waterfall to the right of the trail and more smaller ones along the way. White-faced langurs frolic in the trees above and remote villages cling to the opposite side of the gorge, and everything is green and in full bloom in the springtime. Just as we reach the the suspension bridge which spans the Budhi Gandaki (the older Bailey bridge was washed away recently), we take a sharp right above the main Manaslu trail heading to the east, in the direction of the Ganesh Himal. Entering the steep gorge leading into Tsum valley, we reach the purely Tibetan region of Tsum (also called Chum) and start our trek into the remote, beautiful Tibetan Tsum valley, a (once) very remote, ethnically Tibetan region of approximately 4000 inhabitants. We have less than an hour of gradual climbing above the Shiar Khola, hiking through a light forest (much being cut down for timber), to our rest stop for cold drinks from the lovely shopkeeper of the first isolated tea-house. We continue another 15 minutes to the hamlet of Lokpa (1915m), from where we are treated to great views of Shringi and Ganesh Himal as well as the 2022 landslide section of trail. Note the large, green village on the flat plateau high above the Budhi Gandaki on the opposite side of the gorge. This is Nyak, a village of Gurung’s who graze their sheep and goats far below Barpak. We continue our trek into Tsum Valley, descending to the woods and crossing two newly built metal bridges over the intersecting Sukki Khola and Shiar Kholas (rivers).

Descend through leafy forest to reach the river level, soon afterwards climbing again, often steeply and on a somewhat exposed, switch backing trail high above the Shiar Khola, the highest point at 2240m. The trails through the Tsum valley have been greatly improved, so once precipitous and exposed trails are now safe and well maintained, and we can keep an eye on the treetops to spot rhesus monkeys as we hike. We continue on this cliff-side, undulating trail for about an hour and then drop back down to a small tea-house at Ghumlung, from where we cross the main Shiar Khola on a long suspension bridge. The hilltop village of Ripchet comes into sight across the steep-sided valley as we climb again on a nicely graded switch-backing trail to camp at Chumling, just above Hotel Ganesh Himal. We enjoy wonderful mountain views from our dining tent, with and Himal Chuli rising down valley, so enjoy a well-earned rest if you don’t have the energy to explore the village after this long day! We return to Chumling on the way back to the Manaslu Circuit trail as well, with plenty of time on that day to explore …

There is a small gompa (monastery) in the northern (righthand) section of the village across the suspension bridge just out of camp, In the main section of the village above town, there are narrow alleyways to explore, a few new lodges, tilled fields and a new health post at the upper righthand side of the village. Shishapangma (in Tibet) would be visible in the distance if we were camped very much higher! (8 – 8 ½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 13.73km

Day 9 – Trek Chhokamparo (Chhokangparo) 3085m | visit Dhampa Ani Gonpa (Nunnery) 2365m
Venturing further into the Tsum valley, we have a beautiful hike to reach Chhokamparo, a twin village which translates as roughly ‘place of wisdom’. Just out of camp at Chumling, cross the suspension bridge over the Shiar Khola and descend slightly as the valley opens ahead, with green, fertile villages adding color to the already spectacular setting. We pass several small villages and the tiny Dhampa Gompa, worth a look inside and meeting the old ani (nun) who lives alone at the gompa if she is around. Inside are hundreds of stone statues of Chaktongchentong (a manifestation of Chenrizig, or Avalokiteśvara, the Buddha of Compassion), which line three of the walls. This is unique to the Tsum valley as far as we know and we’ll notice these walls of Chenrizigs in most of the Tsum gompas. Descending once again to the small village of Rainjam, we may be welcomed by barking dogs; we take the left-hand trail up a bit, cross another suspension bridge and ascend to the small hamlet of Gho (2570m) where our friends next to the village tap might be weaving or spinning at their small house (although they seem to have moved away as of 2023). In the fields, wheat (gau), buckwheat and two types of barley (jau and ua, both used for making tsampa flour and chang barley beer).

Passing the small shop, we continue to climb on a good trail with tremendous views up and down the valley for another few hours, stopping for lunch about half way through the climb. Finally we reach the outskirts of Chhokamparo, marked by several ancient, moss-covered mani walls (prayers etched onto wayside rocks, particularly mani stones with pictures of gods and goddesses), and Buddhist chortens, where we sometimes do a circumambulation with locals. Another few minutes, and we climb up a wooden latter to reach our campsite at a friend’s scenic and grassy camping area at the lower end of the village. We have a chance to have hot bucket showers at Namgyal Ngodup and wife Karma (from Gheling, Mustang)’s Bio-Hotel Khamsangbo (which means good view, high, fresh, clean) just 5 minutes below camp.

Chhokamparo is one of our favorite villages in the Tsum valley, a scenic, interesting village with friendly villagers, small lanes to explore and even a well-stocked local shop for a bit of shopping and re-supplying. Other visitors will almost certainly be the langurs, sneaking into the barley fields to raid the crops, devastating for the villagers. We might have the chance to visit our previous guide Tashi’s mother in their modest Tibetan home for a cup of salt-butter tea, the shopkeeper Tashi and his wife, and perhaps daughter Tenzin, are friends who own Tashi Delek Lodge. There’s a lot of weaving in this village as in most others in Tsum and Manaslu, an opportunity to purchase a hook rug, apron, kilim or other textiles either from our campsite or the local houses. The intricate, colorful woven belts adorning most women’s Tibetan-style chubas are unique to the Tsum valley as well. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.45 km

Extra Day | Trek Gompa Lungdang 4340m
It’s a harder day than it looks on the map to reach Gompa Lungdang but worth the effort to get there for the experience of staying with the friendly nuns and the mountain panorama of the Ganesh Himal peaks surrounding the gompa. From the shop and our friend’s small house at Gho, we take a sharp left turn and descend through ferms and dense folliage to the Shiar Khola which we cross on a small, wooden bridge. A short hike through light forest brings us to the green hamlet of Dumje (2450m), where some of the young nuns from Gompa Lungdang stay and study, and the nuns have their barley fields. From here, we have an often steep 3 hour hike far above the Laudang Khola to reach Gompa Lungdang. The views are great along the way and there are plenty of resting points en route. Note that the first time you’ll see Gompa Lungdang from the second vertical prayer flag pole on a ridge it’s still a good hour and a few hundred meters away. We used to set up our Kamzang campsite right on the nun’s slate courtyard, between the monastery and their modest kitchen, but after the monastery was rebuilt (it was destroyed during the 2015 Nepal Earthquake, and The Kamzang Fund provided the nuns with some assistance) our already small campsite disappeared. 

Our options are to stay in basic accommodation at the nunnery and enjoy a unique experience! The very friendly family of nuns, all from the nearby village of Ripchet, have a puja every morning and evening in the main gompa, very interesting to sit in on. Dinner and breakfast are usually a tsampa dhiro (mash) with timbur (mountain pepper) and stinging nettle sauce, and of course butter tea. There is also a smaller and older looking prayer room just to the right of the main gompa with some fantastic old murals, perhaps in the northern Indian style. And the views are superb!

Extra Day | Gompa Lungdang | Day Hike Ganesh Himal Base Camp
We’ll have a rest day at this wonderful spot, a chance to get to know the lively nuns better and go for a walk. We’ll have an optional hike up the valley towards (but not all the way to) Ganesh Himal Base Camp which will be quite strenuous but spectacular. Or just sit, enjoy your surroundings, do some peak-gazing and enjoy the company!

Day 10 – Trek Mu Gompa Camp 3605m | via Rachen Ani Gonpa (Gonpa Rangjung) (Nunnery)
Heading further north on our Tsum Valley trek, heading towards the border of Tibet as we follow the Shiar Khola, our destination is the remote Mu Gompa, the furthest settlement in the Tsum valley besides the seasonal grazing doksas. Leaving Chhokangparo passing the long mani walls in town, we begin the morning with an easy hike through the lower section of the village (called Paro), hiking past the larger mani walls on ‘Mani Hill’ (which we may skip, hiking on the larger track, and pass on the return route), with Chhogu Gompa to our right. Views of the green valley above and below us are beautiful as we hike, and the trek continues to be scenic, green and cultivated throughout the day. We trek past many distinctive pyramid-like chortens (often with counting stones lining the base), unique to the Tsum Valley. We hike amongst the blooming blue iris, and might see jackels, Himalayan thar, lammergeier and/or Himalayan griffin along the way.

Continuing to climb gradually past barley, mustard and potato fields, we pass a village school and soon reach Nyakyu village (3225m). The hiking is relatively flat as we head towards the village of Lamagaon (3220m), the architecture a similar style to the last village, with narrow alleyways between the houses. We are trekking through the more open, predominantly level section of Tsum, during which one lovely village runs almost into the buckwheat (used as a medicine for diabetes in Tsum), barley and mustard fields of the next village, and the trails are peppered with mani walls with carved mantras and small chortens.

TRAIL NOTE | Just past Lamagaon, on the left side of the valley, are two small hermitages called Milarepa Piren Phu Cave and Chi Phu Gompa. Across the river, on the right side of the valley, are the new and old monasteries of Rachen Gompa nunnery, affiliated with Kopan in Kathmandu. We cross the river on a suspension bridge if we visit Rachen Gonpa on the way up valley, or we will visit this on the way down the valley, depending on which route we opt to take.

After the caves and/or the nunnery, still following the Shiar Khola, (we cross a suspension bridge if we come from the caves, and often see herds of Himalayan thar on the cliffs above the river), we pass through Phurbe and Pangdum, both with small village gompas, between them an extremely large, unusually shaped, dramatic chorten which dominates the skyline. This unique structure has an equally unusual door in the upper section, with steps leading up to it (locked), also a good stop for lunch. Soon afterward, we pass through Chule village (3250m); across the bridge over the Shiar Khola is the twin Nile village, which we don’t visit today. These are the last villages in the Tsum valley; Ni Le translates as sun-side and Chu Le water side. This older trail on the right of the river, and the jeep road is an option across the Nile bridge, though there is a river crossing mid-way which may or may not be a bit large.

We continue on the older trail on the right side of the Shiar Khola (not crossing to Nile), passing still more mani walls and chortens as we climb for approximately two hours, more strenuous than the first four hours, to reach our campsite just below Mu Gompa. This last section of trail is more desolate, and more difficult, as we gain 400 meters in two hours to camp at our highest spot in Tsum Valley. Finally, we cross a new suspension bridge, or an old wooden bridge slightly earlier, and continue towards Mu Gonpa and our campsite following the jeep track to the left of the river. We cross a small bridge over a glacial stream and climb a bit more steeply past several larger chortens in the Tsum style, with Mu Gompa just above. We round the corner and see camp just below Mu Gonpa and two herder’s huts, often with teahouse tents erected to service the locals headed north to Bhajyo to search for yartsa gunbu, the primary source of income for many Himalayan families. We can visit the gompa this afternoon, tomorrow morning, or both as it’s just 5 minutes above our camp, which is next to a spring in a meadow filled with primroses (primulas).

After a big snowfall, mornings at Mu Gompa, with the slate rooftops glittering in the bright morning sunrays, are spectacular. This important monastery is Drukpa Kagyupa, though now affiliated with (and funded by) Kopan Gompa in Kathmandu (which is Gelugpa). It’s filled with old carved stone statues of the manifestation of Chenrisig with 1000 arms and 1000 eyes, the same as in Dhampa Gompa , in the main, medieval feeling Lhakhang (temple). The murals outside of the gompa used to be of the usual guardian Bonpo ‘Kings of the Four Directions’ at either side of the doorway – though in 2022 it was new plywood. There are (or were) about 16 novice monks, or thawas, and another 5 or 6 monks and lamas residing at the gompa, and the central temple is surrounded by the monks’ simple dwellings. From James Giambrone, a Kathmandu-based art historian “ At Mu Gompa, look for Arya Tara, Shakyamuni Buddha and Ekadasa (11 headed) Lokesvara. All are approximately 5’ tall made in the repousse process by Kuber Singh Shakya a famous Newar Repouse artist from Patan.” (6½- 7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 15.44km 

Day 11 – Mu Gompa & Lamagaon | Day Hike Chhosyong Lake 4230m
After a scenic breakfast, we have the option for a great day hike, heading up the ridge behind Mu Gonpa and heading to a small mountain lake, with a beautiful slate doksa, overlooking Mu Gompa, small doksas across the river, and the green and snowy valleys leading towards Tibet. But first, we’ll go to Mu Gonpa for a visit and some morning photos of this spectacular monastery, perhaps catching the atmospheric morning puja (Tibetan Buddhist prayer ceremony), often with snow shimmering from the monastery’s slate rooftops. 

After our Mu Gompa visit, we’ll ascend on small trails, past ancient, lichen-covered mani walls and stone chortens at the first viewpoint, from where we have spectacular views of the peaks just in front of Ganesh Himal (which is hidden behind these closer peaks). We often share the ridges with grazing flocks of blue sheep as we enjoy the spectacular views down the valley towards Ganesh Himal. Once at the mountain lake, a spectacular lunch spot awaits at the flat and warm doksa, often with Himalayan yaks watching our meal, and surrounded by yellow primroses (primulas) …

En route back to camp, we can opt to take some of the small trails, bushwhacking to the newly rebuilt Dhephu Doma Ani Gonpa (nunnery), home to seven nuns from Nile and Chule. We met a visiting (meditating) lama originally from Tibet who in 2022 who participated in a wonderful afternoon puja at about 3pm (though we don’t know if this is the usual puja schedule). After returning to Mu Gompa, (we sometimes have a shorter day hike as the views are spectacular throughout the morning, we’ll continue down the valley to the lively village of Lamagaon, where the staff has set up camp on a flat, green stone-wall enclosed lot in this village of lamas! (4 hrs r/t + 2 hrs Lamagaon) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.05km + Hike Lamagaon

Extra Day Mu Gompa | Day Hike Bhajyo (Yartsa Gunbu Traders’ Camp) 4095m
On longer treks we take advantage of our remote mountain campsites and do some exploring, although in 2022, after the pandemic, all of Tibet’s borders were closed so there was no cross-border trade. In June 2012, we were incredibly lucky to catch the annual, monthly ‘fair’ at Bhajyo, which a local jokingly called the New York of Tsum valley. The commodity that brings hundreds of Tsum-pas to this grassy doksa for the month is yartsa gunbu (cordyceps), ‘summer grass, winter insect’, a caterpillar which becomes a host for parasite spore fungus. To get to Bhajyo, we trek north from camp along a high trail to the left of the river, past several chortens and a slide area. About an hour later we’ll reach a small, wooden bridge which we cross and hike up for about 15 minutes to reach Kalung (3830m) where a seasonal Tibetan-styled teahouse is in action in June. Several doksas encamp around the Kalung area, at the intersection of the Changmam Khola and the Yangdol Khola, in both directions.

Heading east along the later river, it’s a few hundred meters of altitude gain along a good trail, across a small bridge at the intersection of this river with the Salbu Khola, to reach Bhajyo. Here, many tea-houses do a good summer business, kids play on the grassy slopes and the older women sit spinning wool. Mules from lower down stop for the night here as they transport hundreds and hundreds of mule-loads of ‘satua’, a ginger-like medicinal root, over the Ngula Dhojyang Pass (5095m) to Tibet. Locals also hunt for yartsa gunbu (cordyceps), the caterpillar-fungus fusion that occurs when parasitic mushroom spores infect and inhabit a ghost moth larva living under the soil, and mainly sold to the Chinese as an aphrodisiac (amongst other medical uses). (6 – 7 hrs)

Day 12 – Trek Chhokamparo (Chhokangparo) | via Milarepa Piren Phu Cave & Chi Phu Gompa
We head back down the green Tsum Valley to Chhokangparo, an easier route back as the trekking is mostly downhill. On the way down we will cross the Khugyu Khola and pass through the large school at Lar to visit Rachen Ani Gompa (locally called Gompa Rangjung), a nunnery also affiliated with Kopan Gompa with a large number of nuns who stay during the summertime. The other option is to stay on the opposite side of Shiar Khola and give people the option to visit Milarepa Piren Phu Cave and Chi Phu Gompa, which makes for a longer but very interesting day. Further along the trail, past Lamagaon and Ngakyu, we might have the chance to visit Chhogu Golden Temple if the door is unlocked. Once back at camp, showers at the nearby lodge, cold beers and perhaps a bit of textile shopping await. (5- 7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 15.44km

Day 13 – Trek Chumling 2022
Hiking back down the steep hillside below Chhokamparo is easier than the ascent, and should take us an 1 ½ hours to reach the small nunnery outpost at Dumche. We generally stay just above Dumche, but we might opt to hike a bit lower and visit this small hamlet. We continue to trek back down valley, following the Shiar Khola. If we didn’t see Dhampa Ani Gompa and the hundreds of stone statues of Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion, on the way up, we can stop for a visit this morning. Finally back home to our yellow tent in Chumling, with plenty of time to explore this lovely village. (5 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 10.59km

Ripchet Side Trip | Lokpa Route
We used to camp at Lokpa, and do the Ripchet side trip en route to camp, but Lokpa now has so many lodges crowding the small hillside that there is no room for our campsite. So this side trip requires climbing the big hill back to Chumling, which makes for a pretty challenging day.  Heading further to the south than our route in, we hike briefly along a narrow trail between wooden fences which actually passes through a local inhabitant’s barn and then drop down to a new suspension bridge over the Laudang Khola. After crossing to the other side, we’ll have about twenty minutes of flat hiking before reaching an ancient, lichen-covered chorten and mani wall marking what seems to be the far reaches of Dumche. We continue, climbing very gradually, though a dense forest , and about an hour and a half after this chorten, after crossing another new suspension bridge, we climb briefly to reach the long village of Ripchet. Ripchet seems poorer than many other villages in the Tsum valley, and is situated on a ridge far above the Shiar Khola, with its fields in back of the village. The dogs are a bit ferocious and the flies are plentiful, so it’s more scenic and interesting to view the village from the fields above. At the end of the line of simple wooden houses is another chorten and then a small school which has 20 students and 2 teachers on a good day.

KUTANG
Day 14 – Trek Deng River Camp 1860m
We start the morning with the switch-backing descent down the ridge, and back across the suspension bridge to the small teahouse at Ghumlung which we passed about a week ago. Just past here is a small pool for cooling hot feet, and the teahouse has drinks. From here begins our long  and undulating trail to return to Lokpa, which still takes a good 2 ½ – 3 hours of ascents and descents through the dense forest, often on stone steps.

Once at Lokpa, we leave the wonderful Tsum valley, descending for half an hour to the river junction and crossing the Budhi Gandaki on a new suspension bridge just north of the older Bailey bridge, which was washed out in a flood in 2021. We continue to trek further north along the Manaslu Circuit trail, heading into more Tibetan border regions. Enjoy the wild rose bushes and deep blue clematis, and the vultures and golden eagles as they soar above us. We might run into villagers from Nyak (2340m), a remote village perched high above the trail, herding their sheep and goats as we trek. We ascend gradually along a wide, hillside trail through an open pine forest, and cross the river two more times on newly built steel suspension bridges (built by a Gurkha NGO – note the old bridge still barely hanging at the second bridge), trekking on generally flatter trails through dense woods of rhododendrons, bamboo, orchids and wild flowers. As we climb, look back for views of Ganesh Himal IV. After 1 ½ hours we pass the small hamlet and teahouses of Pewa (Paha) at 1975m, where we stopped for the night in 2022, setting up the dining tent and with the option of staying in the rooms of Five Sisters Lodge. This year, we continue as before, relatively easy climbing as we leave the narrow river gorge and finally cross the intersecting Dyang (Deng) Khola on a metal suspension bridge to climb briefly to the hamlet of Deng.

Deng is the start of the region called Kutang, where the inhabitants are ethnically Tibetan but speak a different dialect than the people of upper Nubri, where the inhabitants are purely Tibetan. The Kutang dialect, called ‘kukay’, is a mix of Tibeto-Burman and Gurung, and their culture is a mix of Nepal and Tibet. We have views of the Ganesh Himal to the rear, as well as Lapuchen and Dwijen Himals to the north. We will camp in the grassy lawns of Hotel Windy Valley or if we have a larger group, will continue on 15 minutes further up the valley, camping closer to the river. (6 ½-7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 18.62km

Day 15 – Trek Prok 2400m
From Deng, we have 4-5 hours of quite spectacular trails, a rollercoaster of ascents and descents to the Prok turnoff. We cross tributary streams two times on metal suspension bridges, always staying high above the Budhi Gandaki, with local mountain pepper (timbur) bursting form the trailside plants. The walk through the gorge is breathtaking but hot, with spectacular views throughout the day, and some potential small rockslides. We once met the postman, hand delivering small cloth bound parcels with wax stamps to remote households.

The valley is steep-sided and impressive, descending briefly to a metal suspension bridge which we cross as we head along the undulating trail into Nupri. We switchback steeply, once climbing a notched wooden ladder, up to the small, poor village of Rana where the women usually have their looms out. After more climbing through lovely woods of pine and crossing another bridge, we reach Bihi Phedi, where there is a new lodge (with a good campsite), a small tea-house where we often stop for a quick rest and views of Kutang Himal. From this point in the trek we start to see very artistic mani stones, a sure sign that we are entering another of the tiny Tibetan footholds that mark the high Himalayan places. These particular mani stones were carved by stone carvers from Bihi, above Bihi Phedi, famous in the region for this craft.

Just past Bihi Phedi, we begin our wonderful afternoon’s hike, trekking up steeply to the beyul, or sacred Buddhist sanctuary, of Prok, one of Kutang’s most traditional villages perched high up on a plateau amongst green fields of barley, far above the Budhi Gandaki. This village is renowned for its amchis (traditionally trained Tibetan healers, who practice a type of Chinese-Tibetan medicine), and the once kings of Nupri (see Nepali Times article) of whom Dorje Chakuri is the last in the line of descendants …

From Prok, we’ll pray to the gods for views of the sacred Shringi Himal and Ganesh Himal peaks, and get out to explore this fascinating, far-flung ethnically Tibetan village. We will visit some local monasteries, Chokang Gompa high above the village, presided over by Rimpoche Nyima Gyalgen Lama), and stop in to visit some Prok-pas in their traditional house. During our exploratory 2022 visit to Prok, we arrived just as a colorful Buddhist festival called Jhangchuk Sangmo (a Dumche festival) was in full swing, with an archery contest fueled by chang (barley beer) and raksi (grain alcohol, followed by the carrying of the Tibetan Buddhist sacred texts around the village, an incredibly symbolic and timeless event! Our friend Nyima Diki from Samdo spent several months here seeing amchis years ago, when suffering from what we later discovered to be postpartum depression.

From the Nepali Times article ‘Journey to the Mountain of the Spirit’ by Claire Burkert and Thomas Kelley: “Climbing our last mile of a long day, we pass a rock painted with an image of the great Buddhist master, Padmasambhava. A white peak of the Shringi Himal appears, lit by late light. We enter a village gateway: bright green fields spread out before us, with clusters of tall trees in spring leaf, monasteries, and stone houses beyond. A cheerful man in bare feet greets us and invites us to his home. His name is Dorje and he belongs to the royal family of Prok.

Our intuition that this village named Prok is a treasured place within a beyul, a hidden valley, is confirmed when we chat with our host that evening. It is believed that Padmasambhava, who introduced Buddhism to Tibet in the 8th century, hid many valleys called beyul throughout the Himalayan region and provided such forces as snowstorms and mist to protect them. These treasured and peaceful valleys would be discovered once the world faced destruction, hatred and lawlessness.

The stone house sheltering us (Dorji’s hotel) was once the palace of the king of the Nubri valley. Though Dorje was born a prince, he practices as the village amchi (traditional healer). His daughter Jhangchuk, schooled in Kathmandu, alternately consults as a health researcher and gathers fodder in the forest. Thomas photographs Dorje’s family altar and an image of his father, the king. Dorje shows him his scar from a bear attack and describes how the village was wracked by earthquake. He points out his photo with the Dalai Lama …  Hardships balanced out by faith: Dorje is reading his prayers when Jhangchuk guides us to a monastery that the community has reinforced with ample cement. Even though the beyul was not spared the earthquake, people here survived.” (6 ½ hrs (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.24km 

Extra Trek Day | Serang Gonpa 3100m
Serang Gonpa, in the foothills below Shringi Himal, is situated high above Bihi, one of Guru Rimpoche’s ubiquitous mediation sites, a lovely spot if you’re lodge trekking, our runner friend Lizzy reports. We would love to camp high up at Serang Gonpa if we have a small and strong group, as it’s approximately 1000 meters of climbing to reach this spectacular monastery.

Day 16 – Trek Namrung 2540m
After breakfast, we descend steeply through the forest and reconnect with the main trail near Hotel Kyimolong in Ghap, with a chance for some of the group to make a strenuous side trip to Chaak (see notes below). Again, note the elaborate mani walls with Buddhas in several asanas which were carved by the famous Bihi stone-carvers, and the egg-shells strung above the local ‘tea-house’ doors in Ghap prevent the evil spirits from entering the house. Past the bridge, it takes at least half an hour to reach our lunch spot at Hotel Kyimolung.

Just after leaving Ghap, we ascend for two hours through a dense, cool forest of fir, rhododendron, bamboo and oaks, crossing the now narrow Budhi Gandaki twice on newly built suspension bridges, and continue to climb, often on smooth, stone steps. We might spot danphe, the national bird of Nepal, or grey langurs with with their long tails along the trail. As we gain altitude, we reach alpine territory and are treated to increasingly broad mountain views. We eventually reach Namrung, the first village in Nubri, a region of purely Tibetan inhabitants speaking a dialect of western Tibet. Nupri means ‘western ridge’ or ‘western mountains’ in the local Tibetan dialect. Our campsite at Namrung is small and grassy, a spectacular spot when the weather is good, chilly if we’re in the clouds, so do bring something warm in your daypack. Spend the afternoon wandering through town, passing wild roses bushes blooming with cinnamon scented flowers, lavender clemetis and wild stinging nettles along the village trails, tucked away amongst more ancient, weathered mani stones and Buddhist chortens. (3 hrs) (B, L, D)

TRAIL NOTE | From Ghap, across the Bhuri Gandaki and up a steep trail for 45 minutes, is the off-the-beaten-trail village of Chaak, where the son of the Ghap Hotel Kyimolung owner lives with his family. There is a small, deserted gompa, carved mani stones (the style here is distinctly different that most other Tibetan Buddhist regions), and some Tibetans from Samdo who graze their yaks here. In the autumn, villagers dry their maize to grind into flour, later trading with the people of upper Nubri. From this high vantage point, there are great views of  Prok perched on the plateau jutting out over the Budhi Gandaki. From Chaak, one could trek further to Kwak, where a fire recently destroyed the local monastery, and there is a trail up to Shringi Himal base camp.
Distance: 8.16km 

NUBRI
Day 17 – Trek Hinang Gompa 3220m
A great Himalayan trekking day heading to the remote Hinang Gompa, to the southwest of the main Manaslu trekking route, a beautiful location which sees few Western trekkers. Above Namrung, the valley opens, textured with green barley fields (and bear watches to guard them, note the bamboo structures tied with cloth in the fields at the nearby village of Banzam, bean poles with shimmering stirps to keep crows away. An hour and half of trekking along undulating trails brings us to the village of Lihi (2840m). Lihi houses two old gompas, a long village of more billowing fields of barley, also guarded by bear watches. Lihi is known for its unusual architecture which we’ll see further north in Nupri as well, apartment-like units with a common roof, and views include the massive Ganesh NW (II + III, 7118m).

Descending just past Lihi we take the left fork in the trail which leads to Himal Chuli Base Camp, and hike for about 1½ hours through lovely pine forests, following the Hinang Khola, which flows from the Hinang and Lanjam Glaciers. Hinang is a vibrant retirement village for elderly Nupri villagers, who often watch the kids as parents trek up the valley to hunt for yersta gumbu. We arrive at Hinang in time for lunch, with hiking options up the valley for views of the Hinang Glacier in addition to enjoying the incredible view of Himal Chuli right in front (north) of camp. Follow the right side of the glacial stream north in the afternoon, heading towards Himal Chuli, and sharing the trail with locals in search of yertsa gumbu. We pass several kharkas en route; it’s a long way to get to a viewpoint overlooking the glacier, but after 1½ hours of hiking uphill we reach a kharka at 3520m which seems a good stopping point.

Visit the new Drukpa Kargyu monastery (the monks from Hinang Gompa study at Namo Buddha Gompa in the Kathmandu valley in the winter, and the head abbot is the Bhutanese Khenchen Thrangu Rinpoche, and the smaller, 200-year-old Nyingma monastery perched up on the hill behind the stupa, rebuilt after the earthquake in 2015 by the abbot Lhakpa Norbu Lama. This monastery is home to about 15 nuns, and about 20 household monks. Many of the children in this valley (and in surrounding villages of Nubri) attend a school in Kathmandu sponsored by the renown Takyur Rimpoche.

In 2019 we were fortunate to arrive at Hinang during the yearly 3 or 4 day puja held at the Nyingma Gonpa. The local rimpoche related the story of the sacred Kyimolung pilgrimage circuit “Kyimolung translates as ‘dog circuit’ in the local dialect, referring to a pilgrimage route taking in Deng, Tsum and the Larkya La pass, one of Guru Rimpoche’s beyuls” (Buddhist refuges). And in 2022 we saw the last day of the same puja, with colorful and interesting lama dances, Buddhist chants, horns and cymbals and an incredible Tibetan Buddhist puja the next morning. n 2023, our camping group arrived at Hinang to find that the Nyingma Gompa had tragically burned down in an electrical fire, the only remains being the bare ‘bones’ of the 3 large Buddhist statues inside the monastery. The nuns were residing in the lower rooms and in the village, having had to abandon their accommodation at the monastery above. (4 hrs + afternoon hike) (B, L, D)
Distance: 6.84km

Day 18 – Trek Lho 3220m
Returning to the main trail, an easy downhill hike, we turn left on the main trail and have a short climb to the kane chorten and the picturesque Tibetan village of Sho (Shyo) at 3000m, enjoying views of Ngadi Himal and Manaslu North ahead. This part of the Manaslu region has houses adorned with large, colorful Buddhist flags (different than the Tibetan lung-ta). Sho houses a small, ancient lha-khang and two newly rebuilt monasteries (with help from the Taiwanese), one of them across the river. Lama Dorji Chhering presides over the wonderful house monastery at Sho, and will invite us in for a visit of this treasure if he is around …

Look for the bear claw and baby snow leopard pelt on the upper deck of one of the slate-terraced house at the far end of the village (left) as we trek past beautiful, billowing fields of wheat (gau), buckwheat and barley (jau and ua, both used for tsampa and chang). Across the river are the resplendent new monastery, with the ancient ruins of the old monastery above, next to the seven crumbling chortens. And the views of Ngadi Chuli from Sho are spectacular. One more small descent out of Sho, past a fly-blown teahouse and a small stream, and we reach the small hamlet of Shrip, where local women weave incredibly colorful hook rungs (dens).

We have one more short but steep climb up to our destination, the village of Lho, which has seen an incredible amount of rebuilding since after the EQ, with a new chorten built with the help of the Taiwanese in 2009 in the center of town, not the little piece of paradise it once was. The small gompa just below our old campsite has since been taken down, and is in the process of being rebuilt in a new spot. The new Nyingma Rimjung Gompa, adorned with multi-colored prayer flags, is just up the hill from our campsite. This important monastery houses 150-300 monks (both novice monks and lamas) from such far away Tibetan regions as Manang, Dolpo and Bhutan, and was a join venture of these same Taiwanese and Kempo Tashi Tsering. The monks were still studying in Kathmandu in 2022, after the monastery needed to be rebuild after the 2015 earthquake.

Camp is right at the top of Lho, past the long wall of ancient mani stones and impressive chortens, in the yard of the tiny Manaslu View Hotel owned by Pasang and his lovely wife Pasang Diki (also featured in the Nepali Times article), next door to the pre-EQ health post. From our campsite we’ll be treated to breathtakingly spectacular views of Manaslu, the mountain of the spirit, to the left, and Manaslu North to the right, bathed in the golden sunset and sunrise colors!

We arrive at camp in time for lunch inside the dining tent, and will have the afternoon to explore the interesting older section of the village or just relaxing at camp on the green lawn. Lho is a lively, green and sprawling village adorned with many prayer flags. The local household deities in Lho are called ‘pholhas’ and are revered at small altars in all of the houses, and the local women are often out weaving on their wooden looms. (3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 6.79 km

Day 19 – Trek Shayla & Pung Gyan Gompa Camp 4045m
We wake to a misty, golden sunrise and spectacular views of Manaslu and Manaslu North right from the campsite and nearby mani walls and chortens. Leaving Lho, with the snowy peaks of Manaslu rising behind the Nyingma Rimjung Gompa, we pass above the billowing green barley fields and below the monastery on the newer trail, crossing a long suspension bridge, trekking through open woods, and crossing a small stream on a wooden bridge.

We ascend through light forests next to a small river until we reach a small hydro-electric hut. Heading to the right, we hike up through a once dense forest of spruce (which smells just like Maine), now sadly becoming deforested. Locals from Lho and Sama Gaon have cut almost all of the large pines to transport by yak to Tibet where they are sold and other Chinese goods purchased. Hong Sangbu Gompa, near Musithang Kharka, was once a small village gompa and now dwarfed by the larger, newer gompa which will apparently be used for meditation.

We hike past an old mill where local women are often roasting barley and grinding it to make tsampa. Soon we reach the high, idyllic summer settlement of Shayla (Lho villagers, 3500m), where we’ve found pelts of blue sheep tucked away in the rafters of the modest wooden homes, and sometimes spot Himalayan tahr. There are extensive mountain panoramas from Shayla, a hamlet of new lodges and old summer houses with a large, sponsored school (by Takyur Rimpoche) at the end. Once past Shayla we cross two suspension bridges and then have two hours of trekking through classic alpine scenery, hiking along glacial streams with iris, azaleas (in the rhododendron genus), primrose (primulas) and dwarf rhododendron (used for making Tibetan incense, along with juniper) coloring the mountain scape.

After crossing two long suspension bridges over flood and land-slide scarred river junctions, we take a sharp left turn just before the school and doksa at a small (marked) trail, and hike up to Pung Gyan Gompa and the backside of Manalsu for the night. To reach Pung Gyan Gompa, we have a stunning 2-3 hour hike up a sometimes icy trail along the Numla Khola and the Pung Gyan glacier, hiking past Tibetan ‘doksas’, or seasonal herding settlements. We pass thousands of yellow and blue primrose (primulas), the leaves emitting a slightly skunky sesame smell, eventually reaching the lateral moraine of Pung Gyan glacier. We often see Himalayan thar and blue sheep along this route, grazing along the right side of the valley, and Himalayan griffon and Lammergeiers (both vultures) overhead. Looking down valley, the views over blue, glacial lakes and this massive, silt and boulder strewn glacier are sublime and otherworldly …

From our plateau campsite, we are treated to unbeatable views of Manaslu from near Pung Gyan Gompa, a monastery that was mostly destroyed by an avalanche in 1953 and recently rebuilt. See David Snellgrove’s account of the Japanese climbers from 1952-56 who angered the mountain goddess and caused the avalanche that destroyed the monastery and killed the nuns living inside. Monks from the Lho monastery sometimes meditate in the prayer flag strewn meditation caves above the monastery; one of them has been there for about 40 years we were told although we have never met him. Locals are often grazing their yaks and naks (and adorable babies) on the green plateau, staying at their doksas for a month or two. Marmots also stick their heads out of their holes, and you might even spot a rare lone ibisbill at the prayer flag-marked spring just near camp.

Get up a bit early in the morning, and hike a few minutes towards the glacial moraine, just behind the small pond, for a mind-blowing Manaslu panorama! (5 ½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance 10km

Day 20 – Trek Sama Gaon (Ro) & Kermo Camp 3535m
Back down the green, flower filled glacial valley to the wide plateau, our trail leads us past Tibet grazing settlements, several doksas (where we might find a bowl of fresh yak (nak, dri) yogurt). At the end of the valley, we turn left back on the main trail and pass the large Lho school, checkered fields of barley and potatoes, and enter the large village of Sama Gaon, locally called Ro. Sama Gaon sits in a bowl at the foot of the pastures leading to the high peaks, a fascinating village of mani walls (note the massive wall of thousands of mani stones at the entrance to the village, around the Buddha eye stupa), household monks, gompas and tightly packed rows of wood and stone houses with second floor decks and slate shingles, similar in style to those in Lho and Lihi. We will see village women weaving wool (phal) from Tibet, as well as local sheep and goat wool, into lengths of fabric which eventually become chubas, hook rugs, aprons or belts. We often shop for hook rugs (den) and other Tibetan artifacts in the village, a good way to interact with the villagers. Yaks and dzobkios (dzos for short) share the narrow alleys, which have small waterways running in the middle of them and planks to bridge the two sides.

The inhabitants settled here from Tibet over 500 years ago, and the two gompas (one in the lower village) date from this time, both having unique architecture, colorful doors and windows and built of wood. The Tibetan villages in this region of Manaslu maintain an active trade with their co-religionists in Tibet over several high passes nearby (notice the Chinese brandy and beer for sale in the small shops). Taxes were actually paid to the Dzongka Dzong (fortress) at the border of Tibet, a few days walk from Sama Gaon, as late as the 1840’s until it was taken over by the Gorkhas. Later, after 1959, the region was home to Tibetan guerrillas, and thus closed to trekking until 1992. The economy is based on farming, herding and trading, and now of course yertsa gumbu and trekking, being the base camp for Manaslu expedition groups.

Just above the village is the extensive Nyingma Pema Choling Gompa complex, which acts as a retirement home for many of the elders of Sama and houses the monks and their families (all married monks in Sama Gaon) and nuns from the village. After we pass through Sama Gaon, we’ll stop at the monastery complex, locally called Labrang, or Lama’s place. There are frequent pujas at the gompa and many prayer rooms with old murals and statues, worth at least an hour to explore (note the human skull cup lined with silver. During our 2022 trek, we had lunch in the courtyard of an older monk who was going into a 3 year, 3 month and 3 day meditation retreat the very next day, and yet still hosted us gladly in his courtyard!

After lunch and visiting Nyingma Pema Choling Gompa, we will take the scenic, wooded back route to our campsite at Kermo Camp (kermo roughly translates as pleasant). We cross the small bridge over a glacial stream and hike through the gate of the grazing wall, perhaps passing local women laden with baskets of wood for the wood stoves. Our grassy campsite is just below the impressive double peaks of Manaslu Glacier and icefall, with the majestic Manaslu towering over camp. Geoff Child’s ‘Tibetan Diary’ in our library is a must-read before (or after) spending time in Sama Gaon. (5 ½ – 6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance 7.75km

Day 21 – Trek Samdo 3850m | Day Hike Manaslu Base Camp (Birendra Tal Lake)
Another day of spectacular Himalayan vistas as we trek past craggy woods of Himalayan birch during the walk up the valley to Samdo, an easy 3 – 3½ hours hike.

BIRENDRA TAL & MANALSU BASE CAMP HIKE | For those who want an extra excursion, we’ll have the option to hike to the overlook Birendra Tal (lake), trekking towards Manaslu Base Camp. Once through the livestock gate, we take a left turn and  head west towards Manaslu Base Camp, hiking along the grassy lateral moraine and passing two seasonal kharkas. As we hike up through the woods on a dirt trail, past birch, juniper and rhododendron, the lake opens up below us and we get closer to the impressive icefall of the Manaslu Glacier. We’ll hike up to a Guru Rimpcohe cave at 4050m meters before returning back to the valley, perhaps scaring some danphe (Nepal’s national birds) or blue sheep from their hiding spots as we descend, crossing the small stream and heading north again back on the mail trail …

Passing by the left side of the long mani walls at Kermo Kharka, we continue to trek for about 2 hours, soon spotting the entrance chorten of Samdo high on a bluff. We descend to the Budhi Gandaki, which we cross a small bridge, and have a short climb to the ‘kane’ entrance of Samdo, cleansing ourselves on the way into the village. We camp just above a popular lodge which sometimes has Wifi, owned by Tsewang Deckyi and her husband.

The villagers of Samdo came across the border from the village of Riu in Tibet after 1959 and built their new village here, at their old herding settlement. Like the people of Ro, Samdo inhabitants are Tibetan, and were ceded the land by the king of Jumla over 500 years ago. Unlike the Ro locals, they only claimed their land after the Chinese takeover in the early 1950s. Since then they have established a trade with China and India, marketing among other things, the aphrodisiac root that grows in the region yertsagumbu. We have lots of friends in the village so will probably be invited to visit and share some chang (Tibetan barley beer), salt-butter tea and perhaps do a bit of carpet or textile shopping. Take a walk around the village where the inhabitants live an essentially Tibetan lifestyle, herding their yaks, sheep and goats, training their horses and planting barley and potatoes. There is a small gompa in a house mid-village which we visited in a previous year where a puja was held by several of the reincarnated lamas of Samdo.

We have a long connection with a wonderful family in Samdo, one that Clint Rogers, author of ‘Where Rivers Meet’ (also in our library), lived with years ago. The Kamzang Fund helped Nima Dikki get over her four-year postpartum depression years ago, and we knew her husband Tsewang Gyurme well. Tragically, Tsewang Gyurme died fighting a forest fire in January 2011 (see memorial in The Kamzang Fund page) and Nyima Dikki is struggling (optimistically) to make ends meet by running a small local tea-house. We will visit Nyima Dikki’s traditional Tibetan house later in the afternoon, and all are welcome to sit by the warm fire, and try some chang, raski, salt-butter tea and local potatoes dipped in timbur (mountain pepper). The eldest daughter, Menden Samo, helped her mother run the household before she got married in 2019. Tsewang Gyurme’s sister Rita Lhamo, a beautiful, deaf woman with a warm smile, also a talented weaver, will be by to visit, as will Tsewang’s father and Nyima’s mother.

The Kamzang Fund Projects | We have a ‘Samdo Fund’ to help Nima Dikki with her life, kids and business if anyone is interested in contributing. The fund also helps Rita Lhamo, the parents, and Nyima Dorji (Babu) and his wife Tashi Dikki who have a quite tragic story that Kim will relate. (4+ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.8 km

Day 22 – Samdo | Trek Samdo Doksa 4280m & Samdo Doksa Mesa 4355m
It might be impossible to appreciate enough views of Manaslu and the surrounding Himalayan snow peaks, so we’ve scheduled an extra day high up in the Manaslu region, setting up camp at a doksa about 300 meters above Samdo, amongst the slate roofs and patios of the doksa, on the trail which leads towards the Lajyung La Pass (5120m). This pass isn’t used much by locals anymore, so the upper section of trail is barely visible, but we can hike further up the valley for some awesome peak viewing, including an in-your-face view of Manaslu itself (or just enjoy the amazing mountain panoramas from camp).

Leaving Samdo, we pass through the one street of the village and start climbing gradually, heading northeast and gaining wonderful views down to Samdo, its tilled or green fields and slate roofs below, partly obscured by the sunlight on beams of morning fire-smoke. As we ascend, the peaks to the west open up behind us and in 1 ½ hours we’ve crested ‘Samdo Spur’ (4235m). From left to right, the peaks are: Simrang Himal, Himal Chuli, Ngadi Himal, Manaslu, Manaslu North and Larkye Peak. To the right of the Larkye La which is just in front of us as we look northwest, we can see Cheo Himal and Kang Guru behind the pass. Two more contours to northern ridges brings us to a small, clear glacial stream and the original summer kharkas of the Lho people, now deserted and sometimes used by the Samdo-pa in the winter. The kharka huts are beautiful, with glimmering slate tiles on the roofs and slate patios.

Climb one more hill to the old cairn and head directly north up the grassy hillside to reach the idyllic ‘Samdo Doksa Hill’ (4575m). From this vantage point we’ll have views east to the Lajyung La pass leading to Tibet, as well as over the Larkye La and at over to the Manaslu Massif. Purple and yellow primulas bloom throughout the hillsides, marmots stand on their hind legs and whistle, choughs soar and play above us, chukkars dart past us, and blue sheep roam the hillsides above. Local yaks also roam the pastures above these doksas, and more yersta gumbu camps are above. We might also see more danphe (Himalayan monal pheasants, the national bird of Nepal) as they crash through the underbrush, and often spot lammergeier and Himalayan griffon soaring high above. It’s a knee-wrenching hour-long descent back down to Samdo, where lunch in the yellow tent awaits if we haven’t picnicked along the way. (2½-4 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 2.32 km Elevation Gain: 147m Elevation Loss: 6m

TREK NOTE | This will probably be a day hike as we couldn’t get permission to camp at the high doksa because of yertsa gumbu issues between Samdo and Sama Gaon villages. We might opt to move up the valley a bit to Larkye Phedi Camp at 3930m, only half an hour past Samdo.

Extra Trek Day Samdo | Day Hike Rui La (Tibet Border) (5000m)
A rest, acclimatization or exploration day in this wonderful Tibetan village, tucked away below Manaslu which towers above us to the west. The sun hits camp early and warms the campsite so get up with the sun, soak in the mountain environment and notice the early morning sunbeams illuminating the village wood-smoke. In back of camp rise the majestic peaks of Ngadi Chuli, Himal Chuli and Simnang Himal.

For those wanting to explore, we’ve got an great day hike planned to the Rui La, the trading pass into Tibet which local Samdo-pa have been using for centuries. Bring a full day pack and warm gear as this pass at 5000 meters can be cold, and be ready for a long, strenuous day of trekking. Leaving Samdo, we take the main trail for 20 minutes and then continue north until the second major valley, turning right and switchbacking up the hillside to reach the Rui La pass, on the border of Tibet. Lizzy reports that this border now has barbed wire and a Chinese flag, but the last time we were there quite a few years ago there was only a stone marker at the actual border.

The Gya La (‘large pass’) to the north of Samdo is a more frequently used trading route to Tibet but makes for an extremely long day trip. The border markers at the top says ‘China, 1962.’ The trail up to the pass is used frequently by groups of Samdo residents with their yaks carrying timbers over the border to Tibet. True High Asia. These days the main trade is in yartsa gumbu, and Tibetan Khampas used to come for the month of June to bring this commodity back to Tibet and sell to the Chinese for a hefty profit. (Now the border is closed to Tibetans, generally). For those who want (or need) to rest, enjoy a relaxing day in Samdo, chat with the villagers, and get ready for the Larkya La pass in a few days! (8 – 9 hrs) (B, L, D)

Day 23 – Trek Dharamsala Valley Camp (Larkya Phedi Lower Camp) 4360m
We’ll head over to say goodbye to Nyima Dikki, Rita Lhamo and our friends before we leave wonderful Samdo. We have a half day of hiking ahead, gaining some altitude, as we head to our valley camp before the Larkya La pass. We leave Samdo on the old trade route towards Tibet (Sherpas from the Khumbu region used to bring their yaks into Tibet and then across the Larkya La down into Nubri on their extensive trade-circuit in years past), cross the nearby bridge, and climb westwards above the ruins of Larkya Bazaar. The bazaar was one of the trade markets between Tibet and Nepal, a seasonal tented camp, that flourished years ago before the closing of the Tibetan border. Ascending through grazing lands, open, grassy plateaus filled with dwarf rhododendron, juniper bushes and lichen-covered granite, the panoramas become increasingly awe-inspiring. We soon reach the view up to Syancha Glacier on the other side of the valley which tumbles down from Manaslu and Manaslu North. The route up Manaslu is visible from one of the many spurs that we crest this morning.

We’ll have a scenic lunch on the grass while the staff sets up camp, while gazing out at the mind-blowing views. You’ll feel the altitude and the cold here, so perhaps enjoy a leisurely afternoon in your tent. We’re in blue sheep territory, so keep an eye out for herds of them grazing nearby on the barren hillsides. If you’ve still got energy to spare, hike up either of the ridges that form the boundary of our valley, or hike up alongside the small spring-fed stream in back of camp and enjoy the birds, marmots and blue sheep. Either way you’ll have good views of Naike Peak to the south and the tip of Manaslu in front. From Jasmine about the flowers we spot near camp: black pea, or Thermopsis barbata. The yellow one is some sort of euphorbia, similar to Euphorbia wallichii.

From tomorrow, we’re staying in lodges as the horses generally can’t cross the Larkya La pass (except for during some of the summer months, if there is less snow and ice on the pass). Kim will brief you on the schedule for the last few days of our Manaslu trek, and you can send down anything you don’t need for the rest of the trek with the horse team. (4 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 7.16 km

Day 24 – Trek Bimtang 3590m | Cross Larkya (Larkye) La (5140m + 5160m) (Lodge)
Thank God for freshly brewed coffee as it is always dark and cold when we pack up our gear in the morning for a 5:30 breakfast. We start our trek over the spectacular Larkya (Larkye) La pass to Bimtang and the Annapurna region this morning; bring your trekking poles and micro-spikes for the steep, and generally icy descent, hiking down about 1500 meters to Bimtang!

Hiking north from camp as the first sunrays hit the hills above us, we return to the trail above and have 20 minutes of relatively easy trekking to Larkya Phedi Base Camp. After a short, steep climb directly above the campsite, we hike along the right side of the lateral moraine, soon following the narrow bottom of the valley. Look for blue sheep, pika, marmot and Tibetan snow-cock tracks in the snow, and we might be lucky and spot snow leopard prints. We soon reach the ablation valley on the north side of the Larkya Glacier, from where we’ll have views of Cho Danda and Ganesh Himal I to the east, followed by Larkya Peak (6250m) to the west. We continue to hike across the often snowy, undulating side valley of the glacial moraine, past the many snow markers, and in about two hours reach a small hut, mostly unused, at 4920 meters. From the hut we have another 2-hour push to reach the pass. We continue to ascend on small ridges and past a lovely frozen lake, often trekking through the snow, making a gradual ascent which becomes steeper only in the last section to the Larkya La. (5 hours or so to the pass)

The views from the top of the Larkya La are sublime, mountain panoramas equally amazing from both sides of the double pass. From the east, the direction we just hiked up from, we’ll look down on Samdo Peak and the peaks bordering Tibet, and Larkya Peak to the southeast. To the west towards the Annapurna region rise Kang Guru (ridge only), Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal and a bit further down the pass the views open up to included Gyagi Kung and Annapurna II. After hanging our Tibetan prayer flags and yelling ‘Ki ki so so, lha gyalo!’ (‘May the gods be victorious!’), get ready for a steep climb down a ridge followed by a steep descent, often slippery and icy and slightly precipitous, to a trail following the left side of the Salpu Danda Glacier moraine. We’ll lunch after reaching a flat area with smooth rocks if there’s no snow, once we’ve crossed the rock-fall area. From here we continue to traverse downhill with another steep section ahead, soon reaching a flatter valley full of primulas and azalea bushes.

We still have a good 2-3 hours to go to reach Bimtang, a long haul although there is now a life-saving small lodge (teahouse) about 1½ hours above Bimtang. After a welcome cup of tea, a boulder-strewn, circular descent lead us – finally – to Bimtang, which means ‘plain of sand’, the region where the Samdo people keep their yaks and horses in the summer and winter months. We stay in the first lodge on the left, one of the nicer lodges in Bimtang, and enjoy a chilled beer as the evening clouds gather, turning pink behind the surrounding peaks (3-4 hours down). (8-9 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 16.41 km

ANNAPURNAS
Day 25 – Trek Tilje 2300m or Gowa 2620m (Lodge)
A chilly but beautiful morning as the sun behind the ridge hits the Himalayan peaks around us long before the lodge. Leaving the frosty grazing fields of Bimtang, we climb to a ridge over the moraine and look down on the opaque, turquoise lakes below, soon afterwards descending and then crossing a boulder-strewn river, often flooded, on a wooden bridge. We ascend and then head down through open forests of brilliantly blooming rhododendron, juniper, birches and spruce past the doksas below Bimtang. En route we might pass Samdo-pa returning from their shopping in the Manang region with their loaded horses. Butterflies flutter peacefully around us, hummingbirds dart from tree to tree, and white strawberry flowers and azalea bushes are underfoot as we descend through forests of rhododendron, with the west side of Manaslu opening up impressively in front of us. We continue to hike along the rocky river-bed, often on trails which traverse sliding hillsides, and stop for a break at the 2 small lodges of Yak Kharka (we like the lodge on the left of the trail). We follow the intersecting glacial rivers, increasingly large as we drop, and eventually cross a steel Bailey’s bridge and reach the small hamlet of Karche, where we stop for lunch at 7 Sisters Lodge …

After lunch, we have a medium sized climb, more green fields and wild flowers, and an undulating trail as we trek past several small, green and tilled villages  a sign that we’ve reached lower altitudes. We pass through the vibrant green barley fields (protected by local scarecrows) of Gowa village, where we stop for the night at the nice Nirvana Garden Inn, run by the lovely daughter Angina. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 13.14 km

Day 26 – Trek Tal 1860m | Annapurna Region (Lodge) | via Nache 2230m
We have an hour’s hike thorugh a cultural region to reach Tilje, whose inhabitants of Tilje are a mix of Manangis, Ghale Gurung and Chettris (Hindus) so have developed a unique architecture and culture, and eat a mix of foods ranging from dal bhat and buckwheat dhiro to tsampa to Tibetan salt-butter tea. The deep gorge ahead marks the land of apple pie, cold beers and hot showers, otherwise known as the Annapurna Circuit.

Leaving Tilje, we hike along a relatively easy trail following the Dudh Khola through bamboo forests, high above the river, descending towards Dharapani, an atmospheric Tibetan village with prayer flags fluttering in the wind, stopping en route at the Nyingma Tangbarang Gompa (2260m) in Thongje on the old Annapurna trail. Generally we take a higher trail and miss the last descent to Dharapani, a great, off-the-map hike up to the beautiful Gurung Nache village. The hike is a longish uphill, crossing a very long suspension bridge over an incredibly steep gorge, to reach Nache, with its green barley fields billowing in the breeze, and a small village monastery. We will find some locals or a local teahouse for a traditional lunch, and then begin a steep drop down stone steps to Marshyangdi (or Marsyangdi) River.

Trekking south on the main Annapurna Circuit trail, we soon arrive at a long suspension bridge over which we cross the Marsyangdi River to reach the small village of Karte, re-crossing it soon afterwards. We continue along a high, winding, stunning cliff-side trail past several small teahouses at Khorte, and then switch backing down the steep trail before crossing the Marsyangdi River yet again. There have been many landslides over the past few years, so the bridges and number of crossings, and of course the trails, are a bit unpredictable on this short stretch of trail and road. Ahead, we descend to river level and spot the wide plain and waterfall at scenic Tal, the last village of the Lower Manang region. Tal means lake, and the area here was formed when the valley was blocked by a landslide and a dam formed behind. The lake has long gone and now the village of Tal sits on the river flats.

We stop for our last night of the trek at Hotel Norling, the first lodge on the left once we reach Tal. In 2022 we reached this by crossing the river on a small, bamboo bridge instead of hiking to the end of town and crossing the large suspension bridge. We’ll celebrate our epic journey through the wilds of Manaslu & Tsum Valley this evening with the team, and get ready for a jeep ride to Bandipur tomorrow!  (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 15.75

Extra Trek Day | Jagat Marsyangdi Extension
Continuing along the left bank of the riverside, we have a quick ascent to the entrance ‘kane’ of Tal, and after cresting the small hump, we descend steeply past the small teahouses at Sattale, loosing even more altitude as we continue down on an undulating trail through the lush forest to the river and cross another suspension bridge leading to Chamje. a short hike uphill. Chamje is an atmospheric, ‘wild west’ village of traditional-style teahouses, often packed with saddled local horses. From here the road-building is full-on, so we continue as far as we can get, and hop in our jeeps. We have one more hour-long descent along the new dirt road, looking across the river to large waterfalls, to reach the (once) lovely cobbled village of Jagat, situated on a shelf which juts into the precipitous Marsyangdi Valley. Jagat isn’t what it used to be as the road now passes through it, but it’s still got charm and we’ll appreciate staying in the lodge for our last night on the trail.

Day 27 – Drive Bandipur 1030m
We board our private 4WD vehicles for the bumpy ride to Besi Sahar at the start of the Annapurna Circuit, followed by a good, paved road down to the Kathmandu – Pokhara Highway and on another hour or so to Bandipur. Scenic Bandipur is a traditional Newari village, a showcase of one of Nepal’s oldest cultures, beautifully preserved high on a ridge above the road connecting Pokhara and Kathmandu. Bandipur, originally a Magar village, was later ruled by Tansen (Palpa) on the main trade route connecting Tibet in the north to India in the south, and is now a timeless yet vibrant town with lovely guest houses and cafes. We’ll arrive via the steep 8 kilometer road which winds up from the highway, far above the Marsyandi River, and check into The Old Inn, a wonderful, historic Newari boutique hotel surrounded by shops, houses, temples and community centers. If the weather is clear, we’ll be treated to snow-capped Himalayan panoramas.

We recommend a hike down to the less touristed Newari village of Dharapani just below Bandipur, and don’t miss sampling the local yogurt and lassis! There is a wonderful viewpoint just past the Hindu temple, leading to Thani Mai Temple on top of Gurungche Hill. Once up the switchback of stone steps, you’ll enjoy the vast panorama of Bandipur, the Marsyangdi Valley and the checkered fields of the villages in the valley below, especially beautiful at sunset. The hotel has an incredible deck overlooking the forested hillsides, and a good buffet (dinner not included in Bandipur) to top off a great day. We might opt to head out and try another restaurant for dinner after a sundowner beer at The Old Inn.

Some options for a longer stay in Bandipur: Bandipur Bageshwori Peak is about 10 km from Bandipur, an option to visit with the jeep if discussed with the driver beforehand. Siddha Gufa, the largest cave in Nepal, is a half day’s hike from Bandipur, and another half-day hike takes you to Ramkot, a traditional Magar village known for its thatched-roof roundhouses. (B)
Distance Driving: 90.38 km

Day 28 – Drive Kathmandu | Transfer KGH
Back on the road, we drive through the lush, semi-tropical middle hills of Nepal, following the Trishuli River once again as we head back to Kathmandu. It is a different world in the Nepali hills, and the gentle light sends us on our way back to the bustle of Nepal’s capital. Back at the Kathmandu Guest House, enjoy a hot shower and a cold beer in the lovely garden before dinner out in Thamel. (6 hrs driving) (B)
Distance: 139.40 km driving

Day 29 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) for your flight home. Namaste! (B)

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

Dates
March – April
29 Days

April
23 Days (Helicopter Tsum Option)

Trek Price
$5480
29 Days

$4680 (Helicopter Tsum)
23 Days
+ Plus Helicopter Price (Cost Depends on Number of Passengers)

+ NO Single Supplement (Single Tents or Kathmandu Guest House)!
+ Single Option Trek Lodges (When Available) – $60
+ Single Upgrade Bandipur Old Inn – $60
+ Price for 5+ Trekkers

Lodge Upgrades
+ Single Upgrade Lodges – $375 (Subject to Availability)

Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades 
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

Includes

• Western + Sherpa Guide | Kim + Lhakpa Sherpa
• Manaslu Conservation Area Permit, Manaslu National Park Permit & Annapurna Conservation Area Permit
• Kathmandu Guest House + Bandipur Old Inn (Breakfast)
• Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
• Hotels En Route to Trek
• Airport Transfers
• NO Single Supplement (Tents) on Trek!
• Kamzang Journeys Boutique Trekking
  Marmot Thor (or similar quality) Western tents, ‘gourmet’ food with seasonal, fresh produce, French-press coffee, chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, library, ‘lounge’ with colorful Indian rugs, camp chairs, blankets, occasional tent music in evenings, oxygen & PAC bag (when needed), full medical kit, horses, yaks or porters, Western, Sherpa & local guides (when needed), our 5-star Kamzang staff + the signature yellow Kamzang dining tent!

Safety & Health Precautions | Included in Trek

• Thuraya Satellite Phone
• InReach Satellite Messaging System (Free Texts on Trek)
• Updated Route Published on InReach Site
• Helicopter Evacuation Services (Excluding Cost of Evacuation)
• Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
• PAC Bag (Portable Oxygen Chamber)
• Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
• Kayadyn Filtered Drinking Water
• Safe, Sanitary, Delicious + Plentiful Food + Drinks

Excludes

• International Flights
• Travel Medical + Travel Insurance (Both Required)
• Nepal Visa
• Helicopter Evacuation
• Meals (While Not on Trek)
• Monastery Donations
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol, Sodas + Packaged Drinks
• Laundry
• Tips

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $300 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

Trip Advisor Reviews

Client Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments

Trek Highlights

• The Spectacular Manaslu Circuit Camping Trek
• Remote, Tibetan Tsum Valley
• Incredible Himalayan Views from our Remote Campsites: Manaslu, Ganesh Himal + Annapurnas!
• Lower Manaslu Gurung Villages (Laprak + Barpak)
• The Larkya La Pass (5105m)
• Mu Gompa + Gompa Lungdang (Nunnery)
• Tibetan Nubri
• Tibetan + Gurung Kutang
• Purely Tibetan Villages of Samdo + Sama Gaon Villages
• Tibetan Buddhist Gompas of Lho + Sama Gaon (Monasteries)
• Manaslu Base Camp Day Hike (to Lake View Cave)
• Incredibly Diverse Scenery, Topography + Cultures
• Lots of Exploration + Incredible Campsites (Pung Gyan + Hinang Gompas)
• Historic Bandipur (Hotels)
• Our Kamzang Boutique Style Trekking!

Client’s Comments
Thank you so much for all of the effort, help and patience that you put in to make the trek special for us.  We had such an amazing experience, and we will always have such incredible memories that we will remember for the rest of lives.  It was truly an experience of a lifetime! I was so impressed with your whole operation; I don’t know how you juggle it all.  You are not only an amazing operator, pulling all the levers, but you are a gifted guide which makes the trip truly special for everyone.  Also, your attention to detail is impressive, you can tell you put a lot of thought into how to make the whole experience as comfortable and pleasurable as possible.
– Rob B (USA), High Manaslu Trek

‘Kim’s support team are uniformly excellent, and all pitch in to ensure a smooth operation and to make sure that you are OK at all times. The equipment is all top-notch and the food is very, very good. In addition, the smaller, more “informal” style really promotes interaction between members of the group and the guys helping out, which is a rare thing. They are all really friendly, down-to-earth people and have a great deal of knowledge about the trekking regions, local history and customs, and are very happy to answer any questions you have. A good measure of the success of these trips is the number of returning trekkers and climbers that choose them again and again for their holidays. I’d have to say that every trip I’ve made with them has been a really special experience. Suffice to say, not once have I been tempted to join any other trekking group.
– Beau M, High Manaslu Trek

Simply the best! I cannot recommend Kim and her Kamzang Journeys team highly enough if you are looking for trekking experts in Nepal, India and Tibet. The High Himalaya are Kim’s playground and she is expert at sharing her enthusiasm and knowledge with her groups. I have been trekking with them since 2007, and each year I return enthused and excited because I just know it is going to be so much fun. Kim is completely professional setting her itineraries to make sure her clients acclimatize properly, she never skimps on staff so you can go at a pace that suits, and the food is the best I have ever had while hiking. Unlike many companies, Kim has a core group of excellent guides and kitchen crew, there is no single supplement, her gear is always the best, and Kim and Lhakpa’s personal leadership ensures local interaction along the way, almost as if we were visiting old friends. And for sure you will make new friends with your fellow trekkers in Kim’s famous Tibetan dining tent, the social hub of the group. This trek with Kim and Lhakpa was the best of the ten or so we have done in the Indian subcontinent. No detail was overlooked, making for a camp that was the envy of other groups! Kim’s ability to engage with local villagers added another dimension to our experience as the locals invited us to join them in their schools, homes and daily tasks. The food was imaginative, well-presented and plentiful, and served with a smile. Kamzang crew were unfailingly helpful and generous with their time, responding to individual needs as far as possible. An experience not to be missed!
– Marian D (New Zealand),  GHT | High Manaslu, Annapurnas & Upper Mustang Trek + more

I have been with Kim and her crew on four separate treks into the Nepal Himalayas. Each one has been unique, exciting, challenging, and totally amazing. Kim has the best crew around and they provide a comfortable camp and great food. I would highly recommend Kim, Kamzang Journeys and her group.
– Allan B (USA), High Manaslu Trek + more

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

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Cafe Caravan | Bistro & Gallery at Boudhanath
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Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Online Articles & Films on Manaslu & Tsum
Journey to the Mountain of the Spirit – Nepali Times

Forty Years of Trekking in the Himalaya – William & Anne Frej

The Vivid Shades of the Tsum Valley – Inside Himalayas | Article Hannah Price, Photos Kim Bannister

Nepal’s Road Building Spree Pushes into the Heart of the Himalayas | Yale Environment 360

Ramble to Manaslu – The Himalayan Times

Home Away form Home in Tsum – Nepali Times

In the Mountain of the Soul – Nepali Times

Academic Article on Manaslu – Nepali Mountaineering Association

Manaslu Avalanche – BBC

Unmistaken Child  – Film on Tsum Valley

Nupri Women’s Health Training – Video by Nepal SEEDS (Geoff Childs)

Lower Tsum Clinic – Video by Nepal SEEDS (Geoff Childs)

Kami Kids in Sama Gaon School – Video by Nepal SEEDS (Geoff Childs)

Kyimolung, the Blessed Land – Nepali Times

Soul Mountain – Nepali Time

Spirit Mountain – Nepali Times

Manaslu Region (Lower Manaslu, Kutang & Nupri)
Manaslu, the 8^th highest peak on the planet (8163m), ‘Mountain of the Spirit or Soul’, is one of the most spectacular snow-peaks in Nepal. The Manaslu Circuit, officially open for trekking in the early 90s and following an ancient salt-trading route between Nepal and Tibet along the Budhi Gandaki River, is a cultural trek par excellence, and the Larkya La, separating the Manaslu and Annapurna regions, is one of Nepal’s most spectacular Himalayan passes. A trek around the beautiful high Manaslu Circuit is a step back in time, a glimpse of traditional Nepali and Tibetan villages, and a journey through a remote Himalayan paradise. The diversity of the trek, from the sub-tropical Himalayan foothills to the Tibetan Trans-Himalayan high pastures – as well as the awesome mountain scenery of the Manaslu, Annapurna and Ganesh Himals – make the Manaslu Himalayan trek one of the most culturally interesting and challenging, treks in Nepal.

HW Tillman and his team were the first mountaineering expedition to explore the region in 1950, and the Japanese the first team to climb it in 1956; since then, Manaslu has been known as a Japanese mountain, and because of its sensitive location right at the border of Tibet, few western trekkers ventured into the region. Up to the 1840s, Kutang and Nupri were part of western Tibet and paid taxes to Dzongka Dzong in Tibet. Nupri only incorporated into Nepal in the mid to late 19th century when Gorkha power finally extended into the region. The Manaslu region was closed after 1959 due to Khampa guerillas encamped in Nupri, and recently was severely damaged by the 2015 Nepal earthquakes, most of its villages flattened and thousands of locals dying in this tragic few years of earthquakes and aftershocks.

The Manaslu region encompasses the Gurung villages of Lower Manaslu, such as Laprak and Barpak (the epicenter of the 2015 earthquakes), Khotang and Nupri, the former a mix of Gurung and ethnic Tibetan villagers and the later purely a Tibetan region. The Manaslu region has always been an important stage in the ancient salt trade route between Tibet and Nepal, and maintains close ties still to Tibet, with neighboring villages across the borders in Tibet, and yearly trade routes still used at certain times of the year, when the Nepali and Tibetan governments open these now-sensitive borders. Some of the other big (6-7000 meter) Himalayan peaks in the region include Himalchuli (7893m), Ngadi Chuli (7871 m), Baudha Himal (66712m) and Shringi Himal (7187m).

“Manaslu is known in the Tibetan language as “Kutang l”, in which “tang” means the Tibetan word for a flat place. It is a very large peak with an elevation of 8156m (26,759’) (the world’s 8^th highest mountain). In view of its favorable topography of long ridges and glacial valleys, Manaslu offers several routes to mountaineers. Important peaks surrounding Manaslu include Ngadi Chuli, Himalchuli and Baudha. A glacial saddle known as Larkya La, with an elevation of 5106m (16,752’), lies north of Manaslu. The peak is bounded on the east by the Ganesh Himal and the Buri Gandaki River gorge, on the west by the deep fissures of the Marysyangdi Khola with its Annapurna range of hills, to the south is the Gorkha town at the foot of the hill (from where trekking operates during the season), which is an aerial distance of 48km (30 miles) to the peak. There are six established trek routes to the peak, and the south face is reportedly the most difficult for climbing.
– Wikipedia

Tsum Valley (Chekampar)
Tsum Valley, only open to trekkers in 2008, shares the honor of being one of the few sacred ‘beyuls’, or spiritual sanctuaries discovered by Guru Rimpoche. Tsum is sheltered in the mountainous border regions of the Nepal and Tibet Himalayan regions, and named a non-violent zone about 100 years ago. The Buddhist saint Milarepa is believed to have meditated in scattered caves in this remote valley, and Tsum is home to over 100 monks and nuns at Mu Monastery and Rachen Gompa (nunnery). One of Tsum valley’s most revered lamas is Drukpa Rinpoche from Tibet, and its most important Buddhist ritual is the Shringa Kyirong Circuit, a sacred Buddhist kora which takes 10 days …

Tsum valley encompasses 18 small villages and about 4000 Tsumbas (locals), all of Tibetan origin and practicing Buddhism and Bon religions. The movie ‘Unmistaken Child’ recounts the true story of a reincarnated lama, called a ‘trulku’, who was discovered in the Tsum valley. Tsum valley follows a policy of non-violence, not even hunting honey and in theory not eating meat, though how much this is practiced is questionable. One of their main trade items is a root plant called ‘saduwa’ which is traded with Tibet from the border, generally above Mu Gompa.

There are many traditional Tibetan villages to explore, ancient Tibetan Buddhist monasteries with exquisite murals to visit, sublime views of the little-known Ganesh Himal (seven peaks in all) and salt butter tea to be shared with the local Tsumbas and the friendly Buddhist monks and nuns. Tsum is a fantastically green valley in planting and growing season, from March – August, and sees few other trekkers though numbers are increasing yearly. Tsum is surrounded by soaring Himalayan peaks: Baudha Himal and Himal Chuli to the west, Ganesh Himal to the South and Sringi Himal to the north. The north of the valley is connected by three high passes to Tibet, (Ngula Dhoj Hyang (5093m) to the east and Thapla Pass (5326m) to the west). The yeti, known locally as ‘mehti’ as it is in Mustang and other Tibetan regions, is also a visitor to Tsum according to many residents …

‘Tsum Valley is the starting point for the holy Kyimolung Trail, the 120km sacred circumambulation in Nepal and Tibet of Siringi Himal. Pilgrims used to trek around the mountain till Tibet became out of bounds, but they still do the partial trek on the Nepal side. Tourism in the Manaslu Circuit has been picking up with nearly 4,000 trekkers in 2012, but only one-fourth of that number went to Tsum which was opened only in 2008 as a restricted area for which visitors need a permit from the immigration office in Kathmandu.’ – Sonam Lama, from article ‘In the Mountain of the Soul’, Nepali Times.

The Nepali Times wrote of Tsum in an article from 2004, now a bit dated but still essentially ringing true: “Beyul are havens of peace, prosperity and spiritual progress and refuges for believers. In 17th century Tsum (Chekampar), a valley that branches off the Budi Gandaki towards the north of Ganesh Himal in upper Gorkha, was named Beyul Kyimolung. Even non-Buddhists understand why Tsum is perceived as a blessed land. Perhaps one of Nepal’s most beautiful valleys, it is cut off from the southern lowlands of Nepal by deep, forested gorges and swift rivers, and from Tibet in the north by snow-covered passes. The surprisingly flat valley floor provides for some 4,000 inhabitants of almost exclusively Tibetan origin. Clusters of stone houses with slate roofs dot the landscape, enclosed by gentle forested slopes and snow-capped mountains with cascading glaciers. This is century-old Buddhist heartland, with monasteries, bonpa, chortens and mani walls omnipresent.”

“Beyul Kyimolung means “the valley of happiness”, a name echoed in the people, who appear proud and content, an attitude perhaps influenced by a strong feeling of identity, strong social cohesion and small income disparities. The generous Tsum-pa hospitality is the highlight of a visit – countless cups of butter tea, dhindo and boiled potatoes shared generously with strangers. And yet, one cannot help but wonder if the people’s happiness and well-being is not seriously compromised as they struggle with illness, lack of education and income shortages. Tsum has been almost completely neglected by development efforts, and now this isolation is perpetuated as people see themselves living in an area controlled by the Maoists and de-linked from the central government ….

For centuries people have depended on subsistence agriculture, cattle rearing and all-important trade links to Tibet: to the east, Kyirong is only a day and a half walk over the mountains. But the cross-Himalayan trade of Tibetan salt for rice and goods from the Nepali hills has given way to one-sided shopping trips. There is hardly anything that can be bartered from the Nepali side and the once well-stocked village storages that awaited transport to Tibet are now empty. Except for the yearly yarchagumba rush in May, all other traffic over the high passes is one-way into Nepal as even rice and vegetable oil is cheaper in Tibet. The Tsumpa depend on several excursions every year, sometimes risking their lives, to earn small profits from retailing. Still, the challenges in income are nothing compared to problems in health, sanitation and education. One village was completely devoid of children.”

Teachers posted by the government only show up sporadically. Irregular classes result in a low attendance rate, and … the primary enrollment rate has dropped to almost 20 percent. Only half of those enrolled attend school. For most children, the only alternatives are no school at all or the monastery. Samten Dorji, who runs classes in Tsum’s main monastery, Rachhen Gompa, tells us, “Up to 30 percent of children are sent to monastic schools in Boudha and India where they become monks and nuns. … since local elections were suspended in 2002, traditional village-based self-help systems for small repair and maintenance work have revived. The village headman oversees this, and, together with a group of elders, resolves small disputes over issues like trespassing cattle and unpaid debts. In a place where state services don’t exist, self-help initiatives are the only option. Tsum, it seems, is too remote to be of critical importance for those with the power to help.”
– Nepali Times