Sky Caves & the Last Nomads of Upper Mustang Camping Trek
Nepal Himalaya Trek

Sky Caves & the Last Nomads of Upper Mustang Camping Trek – Nepal Himalaya Trek
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it. Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag. Kim’s mobile and WhatsApp numbers: +977 9803414745, 9863196743.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks …

Day 2 – Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing Tour
Morning meeting at 9 AM in the back garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to collect passports, insurance information and photos, and go over some of our trek details and logistics. Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (see Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples.

We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. Option to visit Boudhanath Stupa, Cafe Caravan and have dinner at Roadhouse Boudhanath overlooking the stupa. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepalis circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts and often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Day 3 – Fly Pokhara 800m (2625′) | Transfer Lakeview Resort (Optional Hotel Barahi or Temple Tree Resort & Spa Upgrades)
We start our Upper Mustang journey with a short but scenic 20-minute flight to Pokhara, 198 kilometers west of Kathmandu, flying above the rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. From the plane, we look down on terraced villages and green hills, with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance, and land in balmy, sub-tropical Pokhara. We stay at Lakeview Resort with a cafe overlooking the lake and wonderful AC cottages. We offer a group option to upgrade to Hotel Barahi or Temple Tree Resort & Spa, both with pools.

Enjoy the afternoon in this sub-tropical setting: wander the shore of Fewa Lake, go paragliding or zip-lining, wander along the lakeside (Lakeside Road takes you all the way along the southeast side of the lake and there is a beautiful new walking trail right along the lake), rent a bicycle, paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views (or bike around the lake and to the stupa, a challenging ride), enjoy a glass of fresh juice while doing some shopping, or just sit and relax at the hotel (bring a swimsuit) with a book. Take a boat ride to Fish Tail Lodge on the opposite side of Fewa Lake for an afternoon drink and a panoramic view of the Annapurnas and Machhapuchre, or ‘Fish Tail’ mountain. Or take a taxi to visit Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge “Located on a ridge half an hour outside Pokhara, the lodge is an ideal base for guests to relax in a rural mountain setting, away from the bustle of Nepal’s cities. With a central lodge, bar and dining room, the comfortable rooms are arranged in clusters of cottages resembling a Nepali village.” Inquire at reception to book any activities, including a massage or spa treatments, and there is wondeful shopping for the creative locally-produced crafts along Lakeside.

We’ll head to Moondance or Roadhouse Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, great restaurants on Lakeside Road. (B)

Day 4 – Fly Jomsom 2720m (8925′). Drive Kagbeni & Tetang 2955m (9695′) | Explore Tetang
An early morning transfer to Pokhara airport for our spectacular 20-minute mountain flight to Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang and the start of our Nepal trek into Upper Mustang. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet, we have a panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

Once in Jomsom, we’ll be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans, and beautiful textiles are woven by handlooms in the traditional style, readily available for sale. (I have to keep this description as we got such a good laugh out of it in 2022, greeted by the sound (and smells) of tractors, buses and jeeps!). After sorting out gear and having breakfast at Trekkers Inn in Jomsom (where we stay when we return to Jomsom), we’ll drive up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni (2900m) to begin our Himalayan trek.

Our journey into fabled Upper Mustang, Nepal, begins! The jeep track follows a road above the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed and provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. Once in Kagbeni, we’ll take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while Lhakpa checks us into the restricted Upper Mustang region of Nepal, bordering Tibet. Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley, and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sakya Gonpa (monastery), 800 years old. We’ll wander past the ancient, crumbling, 100-room King’s Palace, and hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint at the end of town to enjoy the fantastic views Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligiri.

Back in the jeeps, we continue the drive above the Kali Gandaki on the plateau above the riverbed, all the time with magnificent vistas. The village of Tiri Gaon is set on the west bank of the river, part of Lower Mustang. We head north past the red, white, and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m), a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat, and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley. Soon past Tangbe, we reach Chhusang (2955m), an interesting Tibetan village with a salt mine two hours up the Nari Khola river valley, past Tetang. The salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of these villages came from this trade.

Across the Kali Gandaki, high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to seventeenth centuries. The historian Gucci believes these caves to have been homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit monks as retreats. Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently, and many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests, and plentiful game to hunt.

Our first Kamzang Journeys campsite of the trek is set up in the orchards of Kailash Hotel & Green Camping Site just below Tetang, below a row of massive, whitewashed chortens. We have the rest of the day to hike up to Tetang, 15-minutes upriver from camp (generally, sandals for crossing the small Nari Khola).

Tetang is an endlessly fascinating, fortified village with massive houses pock-marked with old scaffolding holes. The ruins of an ancient, crumbling dzong stand majestically on a crest at the northern end of the village, with several families living in this ancient monument. Years ago, we witnessed a village women’s council arguing over the use and shortage of water, a heated discussion. It is an extremely photographic and timeless village with lively (and funny) inhabitants, which loses the sun before 5 pm. Watch village life unfold in the afternoon, as the animals are brought back to the village. Above Tetang are many multi-hued chortens that mark the entrance to this remote village from the Annapurna side, a long mani wall, green, terraced fields of buckwheat and barley, and the ancient Tetang Dzong and Tetang Monastery. There is also a crumbling cave complex above our campsite to explore, but carefully as the rocky hillsides are steeper and slicker than they seem. (1½ hrs driving) (B, L, D)
Distance: Drive 23.5km 

NOTE | If we have time, we might take the jeep to visit Gonpa Gang across the river from Chhusang. “The temple of Künzang Chöling, alias Gönpa Gang, is arguably the most important Buddhist monument preserved in lower Mustang. Constructed in the 1680s as a nunnery, it is remarkable for its architectural features and state of preservation. Gönpa Gang not only preserves almost the full iconographic program as it was conceived by its founder, but also much of the original architectural features including their painting. The architecture of Gönpa Gang is unique within Mustang. In particular the construction of the Assembly Hall with its complex layering to allow for better lighting, is remarkable.” – Gonpa Gang, Norbusum

Day 5 – Drive Samar | Cross Dajori La 3610m (11,845′) & Trek Chungsi Caves | Cross Chungsi La 3810m (12,495′) & Drive Geling or Tamagaon 3700m (12,136′) | Cross Shyangboche La 3825m (12,546′)
We have a bit of driving to keep us from hiking on jeep roads, and some great trekking today! Leaving our campsite at Chhusang, we hike along the high trail, through a hillside of rounded river rocks, and descend again just above Chhusang, with its archery field and apple orchards. We reach the rocky Kali Gandaki riverbed, where people search for saligrams from the Jurassic period (160 million years old), fossils embedded in the sediment of the seafloor. We meet our jeeps in Chhusang, and cross the river just below a naturally formed tunnel (from a rock-fall) through which the Kali Gandaki flows. Look above the bridge for views of some of the ancient caves explored in the Peter Athens National Geographic documentaries. The caves are all empty, assumed to be mediation caves, and believed to be haunted by the spirit or zombie of the ‘Chhuksang woman’. Two of the National Geographic explorers were almost fatally injured while exploring these caves.

We drive up the rocky hillside to the village of Tsaile (3060m) just above us on the plateau, a lively village with extensive wheat and barley fields. The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’, which date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion, do what they look like they might do: capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household. You will also see women wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral, and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks. 

Next on our jeep safari, the winding ascent up to the Dajori La on a breathtaking trail meandering its way towards Samar (3600m). We drive past the long suspension bridge to the Gurung, Bon-po village of Ghyakar, with it’s pink flowering apricot orchards (the seeds brought over from Ladakh), the canyon becoming deeper and more dramatic as we ascend to the Dajori La pass (3600m), marked by rock cairns. Lovely Samar (3605m), a green village with poplar groves and flat-roofed houses, was formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet. There is a vertical Tibetan flag (tarchok) on every rooftop, erected for every member of the village. We’ll stop for a cup of tea at The Annapurna Lodge, one of our favorite campsites and owned by good friend Namygal Gurung, the headman of the village (until 2022). His brother Karma used to be our horseman, later became one of our guides and is now living in New York City.  The Kamzang Fund also sponsors Tenzing Doma, a lovely girl from Samar, and will stop by to see her parents in their traditional home on the right of the long mani wall. 

Trek Chungsi Caves | Cross Chungsi La 3810m (12,495′)
Passing through the cluster of traditional houses and mani walls of Samar, we exit through the ‘kane’ chorten, cleansing ourselves as we pass through, and descend steeply on a switchbacking trail to the Samarkyung Khola. We cross on a new suspension bridge, after which we have another drop into the next valley, the Jhuwa Khola, and another climb out. After a break at the plateau, we take the right fork and trek past a small doska (seasonal herding settlement, kharka in Nepali), and continue to climb and contour for a short time to the Chungsi La (3810m), about 350 meters of climbing. From the cairns at the top of the pass we are treated to spectacular views down into the deep canyon beyond us, and back over the Annapurnas.

Switchbacking steeply downhill, we drop into this incredible, vast canyon, with wonderful, expansive views as we hike. High above the Kali Gandaki, which snakes its way through the canyons far, far below us, the trail descends steeply, eventually rounding the corner just past our large look-out rock. It doesn’t take long to round the corner and reach the intersection to the sacred Buddhist Chungsi Caves, about 500 meters below the pass. Keep an eye out for blue sheep, as well as snow leopard prints and markings in this valley. The Chungsi Caves (3425m), about 250 steps uphill, are one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s meditation caves. Inside are fantastic ‘rangjung’ or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens, ‘Tara’s terraced fields’ and other Buddhist statues. A previous caretaker was a monk from Tibet who had been living in the cave for 2+ years many years ago, and the newer caretaker is also a Tibetan monk. (See page 144, Tucci).

Back down the steps, we meet the main trail and begin to hike up through the canyon, looking for the many nests of Himalayan griffins high up in the cliff-faces noticeable from the white below them (guano, vulture droppings) as well as these majestic birds, with their three-meter wingspans, circling high above us. 

Drive Chungsi Caves | Cross Bhene La 3840m & Yamda La 3985m
Those wanting to drive much of the route to the Chungsi Caves will stay in the jeeps and continue on the switchbacking road over the Bhena La (3840m) and the Yamda La (3985m), staying at relatively the same altitude between passes. Once over second pass, the jeep takes a sharp right and continues down the jeep trail to the northern side of the Chungsi Caves trail. You’ll get out of the jeep and hike along the trail for about 10 minutes before climbing the many steps to the cave. (see above)

Trek Geling 3565m or Tamagaon 3700m (12,136′) | Cross Shyangboche La 3825m (12,546′)
We meet our jeeps (optional, we can also hike this section) and drive to the small hamlet of Shyangboche (3765m), originally a seasonal kharka named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan), passing a small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats; watch out for the guard dogs. We’ll stop for lunch at the first Tibetan lodge on the left, enjoying spectacular Annapurna views from the slate deck. After lunch, a short hike to the Shyangboche La (3825m), just 50 meters above the village where we’ll stop for photos of the dramatic Himalayan vista, including Annapurna I, Niligiri and the peaks north bordering Tibet.

We descend gradually on the jeep road, crossing a small stream and ascending again to the plateau. The western section of road passes by the small hamlet of Tamagaon (3700m), where we camp at The New Tenzin Hotel & Restaurant, run by a lovely older couple Sherap Tenzin and his wife Dolma, and recently their son and daughter-in-law with a new baby. Only 2 families remain in the tiny hamlet of Tamagaon, the remaining 3 families having moved to Pokhara or Kathmandu. Across the road to the west (in the direction of Geling) are the ruins of an old ‘dzong’ (or fortress, also called ‘khar’ in Tibetan) and ani-gompa (nunnery), a nice afternoon’s excursion from our campsite. 

We might opt to camp in Geling, depending on the campsite conditions in Tamagaon. Accessed via the eastern road, Geling is a picturesque village always bustling with local life, the white-washed Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields. Above Geling is the newly renovated brick-red Geling Gompa, its protector chapel above, and ancient meditation caves in the eroded cliffs, a fascinating and atmospheric monastery.
Distance: 11 km (Drive Samar)
Distance: 10.5 km (Trek)

Day 6 – Trek Geling, Ghemi & Dhakmar 3785m (12,420′) | Cross Karki La 4026m (13,205′) & Ghemi La 3520m (11,550′) 
Leaving Tamagaon, we start hiking just behind our campsite following sheep and goat tracks and small jeep roads, staying high and then dropping to lovely Geling for a look around the village. We’ll hike up to the monastery for a visit if we find the key keeper. Afterwards, we follow a small trail that contours around the arid hillsides, often following snow leopard tracks. Tibetan partridges chortle as they scurry away. We ascend gradually to reach the Karki La, from where we drop down to the jeep track, cross the road, and connect with the track to the Ghemi La.

We descend steeply down to Ghemi (3750m), built along the steep edges of the cliff as are many fortified villages in Mustang. There are ruins of an old fortress somewhere in Ghemi, largely abandoned until the Khampa fighters set up a magar (war camp) here and brought new life and wealth to the village. We’ll wander a bit through this interesting village, passing the mani walls and prayer wheels, perhaps finding the key-keeper to open Ghemi Gompa. Descending to the sparkling, green river, we’ll stop for an idyllic rest on rounded river rocks. Afterward, we cross the river on a smaller, wooden bridge adorned with prayer flags (and Buddhist texts in 2022) and climb for about half an hour to a small pass overlooking the massive chorten complex (see below) as well as Ghemi and Dhakmar valleys, a spectacular vantage point which takes us down to the left of Dhakmar.

We continue to hike through this scenic, green valley, stopping occasionally for passing herds of sheep and goats, and soon arriving at the lively, sprawling village of Dhakmar, dominated by a dramatic, red canyon wall with many ancient cave dwellings. Following the small stream through the lower part of the village, green with old willows and more recently planted poplars, we pass by the ancient king’s house on the right, and look across the stream to the old Dhakmar Gonpa. ‘Dhakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures illustrate a well-known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rimpoche eviscerated a huge demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red and purple-grey.’ –  Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door

The red cliffs, which house Himalayan griffins and lammergeyers as well as incredible cave complexes, are fantastic! We are camped in a green, scenic spot at the very top of the village to enjoy the awe-inspiring views. Get out and explore Dhakmar, where villagers are threshing and sorting flax seed, poplars are cut and drying in fields, and wander under the dramatic red cliffs for the rest of the afternoon. One of the ancient cliff caves, striped with ochre and white, has a narrow access trail so it’s possible to get inside. The monastery was recently renovated for a visit from Sakya Rimpoche in 2018. (6½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 15.2 km

Day 7 – Trek Tsarang 3570m (11,710′) | Cross Dhakmar La 3950m (12,960′)
From Dhakmar, we trek up through the fluted hoodoos and craggy spires just north of the village, perhaps a 45-minute climb to reach the plateau about 200 meters above us, below the Mui La. The views looking down through the canyons to the terraced fields of Dhakmar, many of them now abandoned, are breathtaking. From the plateau it’s an easy hour walk down the ridge to the valley, where we follow the Tsarang Khola, with scenic Marang across the river. Passing through the patchwork of fields, we soon reach the fortified village of Tsarang, meaning ‘cock’s crest’, one of Mustang’s ancient capitals perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon. We’ll walk between high walls to the south of the village, green with poplar and willow trees, and stop to gaze at Tsarang Gompa and its ruins, impressively built on a crag of rock.

Tsarang is a large village of 83 houses (population 400) built on top of the Tsarang Khola canyon, one of the later capitals of the Kingdom of Lo in the 14th century. Stone walls separate the houses and form tunnel-like paths, a new irrigation ditch lines the main street, and willow groves turn the village green. Tsarang bustles with its many shops, its own hydro-electric plant, quite a few guest houses and visitors and many corners occupied with social women weaving or counting mani beads, and men spinning wool as they chat. It is dominated by the massive, crumbling five-story Tsarang Dzong, a Tibetan-styled fortified palace built in 1378 (after the palace at Lo Manthang), and the large, ochre-hued Tsarang Gompa, built in 1385, of the Sakya sect and with the greatest library in Lo (the palace also has a great library). The dzong and palace were both built by Ame Pal and the other of the ‘Three Sangpos’. The palace has a wonderful, old prayer room with a gold-printed prayer book and a fascinating array of statues, thankas and large Buddha paintings that the resident lama will show you, and the withered 500-year-old hand of the master architect of the palace.

Tsarang Gompa is adorned with fantastic 15th century frescos on the assembly hall walls; don’t miss the older monastery in back, once the ‘ani gompa’, or nunnery. Elaborate sand mandalas are created at the gompa at festival time, and then ceremonially deposited into the river at the festival’s end. Ekai Kawaguchi stayed nine months here in 1899, and Michel Peissel spent time with the Abbot of Tsarang, the king’s brother (the present king’s grandfather) during his time in Mustang. We were fortunate to be invited into the protector deity room for a Mahakala puja in the spring of 2022.

Camp is set up in the green campsite across from Maya’s Inn & the wonderful new Maya’s Heritage Inn, both owned and run by Maya and Tsewang Bista (sister and brother), relatives of the King. The Palace and Gompa are visible in the near distance, and a new, beautiful nunnery is just down the road (to the south). Take the chance to have a cup of traditional salt-butter tea in the kitchen with Maya and the staff of the inn. Take a walk through the maze of paths to the dzong and friendly gompa before dinner, and stop in at one of the many shops for a look. Many of the wealthier homes here have family shrines which you might be lucky enough to be invited to see. The local women will be herding their sheep through the narrow, walled paths at dusk as the snow pigeons circle, shimmering, under the setting sun. (3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 7.6 km

Day 8 – Trek Lo Gekar 3940m (12,926′) & West Nomad Camp 4280m (14,040′) | Cross Choku La 4298m (14,100′)
Trekking north out of Tsarang, we take the main jeep track out of town to the left of the river, passing Marang village above us. After about an hour, we cross the river on a suspension bridge and trek through the villages of Karang, and on through another small hamlet as we head towards Lo Gekar, which is an optional visit en route to the West Nomads Camp. For those visiting the monastery, turn left and cross a small wooden bridge before a small ascent to the gonpa, and for those going straight over the pass, we’ll keep to the right of the green valley.

It takes about 2½ hours to trek to Lo Gekar, ‘Pure Virtue of Joy’, set majestically in the valley above. Lo Ghekar or Ghar Gompa, built in the 8th century, is one of the oldest gompas in Nepal. It belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet as well as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means ‘house gompa’ after the style of architecture, and harbors many exemplary frescoes as well as wonderfully carved and painted mani stones. Surrounding the gompa are massive, block-like chortens of a unique style and strings of colorful prayer flags fluttering in the winds of Mustang.

The Story of Lo Gekar
Samye Gompa, the oldest gompa in Tibet, was repeatedly destroyed by demons when it was being built. The head lama dreamed that Guru Rimpoche could help with the construction and invited him to the site. The great Guru Rimpoche found demons to be the problem, and suggested that they first build Lo Gekar. Guru Rimpoche killed the demons at the spot that Lo Gekar was soon to be constructed. The long mani wall just south of Dhakmar is said to have arisen from the intestines of the demon, and the red cliffs above Dhakmar the blood of the demon. After Lo Gekar was completed, Samye in eastern Tibet was also successfully built.

After a look at the ‘lha-khangs’ or prayer rooms of the gompa, we’ll cross the green, rocky grazing valley and begin to ascend the Marang La, a gradual climb through a green grazing valley following a small stream. We’ll stop for a break at the top of the first hill, gazing out at the Himalayan peaks in the distance, with Annapurna l and Gangapurna dominating the vista. Blue sheep, domestic cows and flocks of local sheep and goats from Tsarang graze in these arid hillsides, their tracks stripping the otherworldly ridges, and griffins and choughs soar in the clear, blue Mustangi skies overhead. After an easy contour, we reach the prayer flags and cairn which mark the Choku La. From the pass it’s a quick 20 minute walk contouring the hillside and down to the beautiful, green nomadic encampment, our ‘last nomads of Mustang’!

We have a bird-eye view over this scenic valley, dotted with nomadic tents of yak-hair, yaks, herds of sheep and goats, piles of yak dung and nomads. Several families live in this valley in their tents, and a few more in the valley over the next ridge. Our campsite is fantastic, set right next to a clear stream on a grassy, flat plateau looking down-valley over Himalayan peaks. We’ll visit the lively doksa later in the afternoon, perhaps being invited for a steaming cup of salt-butter tea and dried cheese. This is one of the last nomadic settlements in all of Nepal, a rare chance to see how real Tibetan nomads exist. We are quite high so it gets COLD in the evening, and sunsets and sunrises are perfect …

Afternoon Nomad Excursion & Textile Shopping
Hike over the hill to the north to visit the other nomadic settlements in the afternoon; all of the nomads were living in the Tibetan borderlands northeast of Lo Manthang, and many families moved to this spot about fifteen years ago to have better access to supplies, schools and medical facilities in Lo Manthang. From the hill between the camps, at the prayer flag, you can look right down to the walled city of Lo Manthang, a great view. Locals from Lo Manthang might come to the doksas to collect the sheep and goat dung that the nomads don’t use. We might get some yogurt from the nomads, delicious and fresh, and we have the opportunity to support the nomads by purchasing their tribal textiles, in wonderful colors and textures, all hand-woven, from the nomads.

One of our favorite weaver, Lhamo Tseten, together with husband Dabla have a son Pema (approx 21) and daughter Dechen Tsomo (approx 23) that we finally met in 2023, when one of their yak had just died in a fight with another yak (they have only yaks). Dechen Tsomo is working towards a bachelor of hotel management in Kathmandu! Lhamo Tseten and Dabla stay over on the other side of the ridge, in the valley closer to Lo Manthang. Another good friend, the lovely Phu Dolma, has 2 sons, and recently lost her mother who we also knew well. Their family has yaks, sheep and goats. Their daughter Sonam Lhagye (14), has been diagnosed with a hole in her heart, and The Kamzang Fund (Nomad Fund) is bringing her to Kathmandu for further examinations, and possibly an operation. In the next higher yak-hair tent lives Choeten and husband Ritan, with a smart daughter Chhime Yangdon (18), still studying at the SOS school in Pokhara in 2023, wanting to study nursing. 

TREK NOTE | The nomads might be camped in a slightly different location on the plateau, near the ancient, crumbling ruins of once important Samdrupling Gompa (meaning ‘Island of Fulfillment of Aspirations’). Note the extension monastery (or hermitage) in the cliffs. (Wonders of Lo, p 149). (6-7 hrs Low Camp, 8 hrs High Camp) (B, L, D)
Distance: 12.5km

Day 9 – Trek Lo Monthang 3820m (12,533′) | Visit Jampa, Thubchen & Chhoede Buddhist Gompas (Monasteries)
Continuing our Himalaya trek, we sadly leave the high grazing plateaus of the nomads and traverse up a ridge right out of camp, with views from the top down to the ancient walled capital of Lo Manthang. Descending into the wide valley below, we trek for about two hours following the valley bed, past the ruins of ancient fortresses and gompas, towards the southern walls surrounding the city. To the north of Lo Mantang, in the direction of Tibet and at the bottom of the Namgyal valley, are the impressive ruins of Khochoe Dzong, meaning ‘white sheep dzong’, Ame Pal’s original palace dzong built in 1440. The other ruins, slightly lower, were a monastery of a similar period. Both catch incredible morning and evening light, very photogenic sights, and at least the lower ruins are accessible from the Namgyal Tinggar valley. Horses roam freely amongst the crumbling walls and fields that surround Lo. At Lo Manthang, we cross a small bridge and turn left into the walled entrance of Lo. Finally, the fabled city of Lo Manthang!

We enter the outer walls of the city and head to Pema Bista’s campsite at one corner of the walled city, under a small grove of willows. Be prepared for the arrival of mass tourism in Lo Manthang, which is not as pristine as it used to be, but just as mystical in the golden, yellow light as the local men bring their sheep and horses inside the city gates for the night. Perhaps we’ll have a cup of the infamous suija (salt butter tea) at Pema’s house in the afternoon, after visiting his wonderful shop at Lotus Guest House. We’ll have plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan peaks bordering Tibet.

We’ll spend the rest of the day visiting the famous monasteries, wandering the labyrinthine alleyways of Lo Manthang, shopping for Tibetan and Mustangi artifacts and doing a ‘kora’ of the large, walled complex. There are several amchis that run Tibetan herbal medicine clinics in town, two schools, a growing number of coffee shops, plenty of local shops selling goods from Tibet along with an increasing number of souvenir, thanka and antique shops. (They do take credit cards!)

“It would be fitting for Mustang to become once again a hub for trade. The palace is … a relic of the city’s golden age, dating back to the 15th century. At that time, the upper portion of the region was known as the Kingdom of Lo. Its people, the Lo-pa, ethnic cousins of Tibetans, had amassed great wealth by controlling trade through the Kali Gandaki Valley. Flanked on the west by the world’s seventh highest peak, Dhaulagiri I (26,795 feet), and on the east by the 10th highest, Annapurna I (26,545 feet), the gorge offered one of the most direct trading routes between the rich salt deposits of the Tibetan Plateau and the markets of India. Here, the Lo-pa taxed the yak caravans, which, in addition to salt, carried barley, turquoise, and the glands of musk deer (used for medicine and perfume). The name Mustang derives from a Tibetan word meaning “plain of desire,” a reference to the potential riches to be gleaned there.

But even before Mustang had evolved into a vibrant trading hub, it had been an important crossroads for Buddhist scholars and pilgrims moving between India and China. Eventually, Buddhist teachings were fused with the region’s animistic practices, and Tibetan Buddhism was born. Over time, the kingdom embraced this new faith and built ornate temples and monasteries. According to local legend, the first Tibetan Buddhist temple in the kingdom was constructed a few miles south of Lo Manthang by an Indian mystic who destroyed a demoness there. Today this temple, known as Lo Gekar, sits among a stand of twisted willow trees at the end of an isolated canyon, where locals believe it still pins down the heart of the slain demoness.” – This ancient Himalayan kingdom has been isolated from the world—until now (National Geographic) (3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 7km

Alternative Route | Trek Lo Manthang via Tinggar 4025m (13,200′)
An alternative, longer route to reach Lo Manthang is via Tinggar, and is an especially good way to go if we camp at the high nomad plateau. From the low nomad plateau, we contour up and down several hills, staying relatively high, and after several hours of scenic hiking reach a prayer flag festooned hilltop which looks down on Tinggar, the once summer capital of the Kings of Mustang but closed these days, not in great condit. Descending into Tinggar, we’ll visit this interesting, traditionally Tibetan village and perhaps its small village monastery, recently renovated. Descending back down to the valley, we’ll probably stop for lunch in a green field before continuing another hour, skirting below the impressive Namgyal Monastery to Lo Manthang, entering through the northern walls.

History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital. Legend has it that the palace in Lo Manthang was constructed after Ame Pal send a goddess to find an auspicious spot, and she landed at the site of the present palace. The summer palace at Tinggar was built later, and was used mostly by the earlier kings during the summer months. Later kings spent their summers in Lo Manthang and their winters in Kathmandu. Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gonpas (monasteries) and murals in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings. 

The Raja’s palace, home to the former King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (from an aristocratic Lhasa family, now living at Royal Mustang Resort), is the largest building inside the city walls. Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (abbot) were allowed to ride. All others had to walk through the gate to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. Former King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, was the last king to reside at the four-storied palace inside the city walls, in disrepair but presently being rebuilt. The king was an avid horseman and kept his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, Lo Gyalpo, the king of Mustang, plays a somewhat ceremonial role although they have always been well-loved and respected throughout Mustang. Jigme-La, the present king of Mustang, is the 27^th descendent of Ame Pal.

Within the walls of Lo Manthang is an interesting maze of village lanes to explore, cafes, hotels, shops, stupas and mani walls. The inhabitants of Lo Manthang are called Lo-pas (Lobas). There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry. There are even yeti (known in Mustangi as mehti) prints rumored to be found in the region.

“It would be fitting for Mustang to become once again a hub for trade. The palace is … a relic of the city’s golden age, dating back to the 15th century. At that time, the upper portion of the region was known as the Kingdom of Lo. Its people, the Lo-pa, ethnic cousins of Tibetans, had amassed great wealth by controlling trade through the Kali Gandaki Valley. Flanked on the west by the world’s seventh highest peak, Dhaulagiri I (26,795 feet), and on the east by the 10th highest, Annapurna I (26,545 feet), the gorge offered one of the most direct trading routes between the rich salt deposits of the Tibetan Plateau and the markets of India. Here, the Lo-pa taxed the yak caravans, which, in addition to salt, carried barley, turquoise, and the glands of musk deer (used for medicine and perfume). The name Mustang derives from a Tibetan word meaning “plain of desire,” a reference to the potential riches to be gleaned there.

But even before Mustang had evolved into a vibrant trading hub, it had been an important crossroads for Buddhist scholars and pilgrims moving between India and China. Eventually, Buddhist teachings were fused with the region’s animistic practices, and Tibetan Buddhism was born. Over time, the kingdom embraced this new faith and built ornate temples and monasteries. According to local legend, the first Tibetan Buddhist temple in the kingdom was constructed a few miles south of Lo Manthang by an Indian mystic who destroyed a demoness there. Today this temple, known as Lo Gekar, sits among a stand of twisted willow trees at the end of an isolated canyon, where locals believe it still pins down the heart of the slain demoness.”  – This ancient Himalayan kingdom has been isolated from the world—until now (National Geographic)

Buddhist Monasteries of Lo Manthang
There are four major monasteries within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang. The 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang, constructed in 1387, is the oldest gonpa, with a striking 50-foot ‘Jampa’ (future) Buddha statue, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago. The 15^th c Thubchen Gompa boasts a Great Assembly Hall with pillars 30 feet high, and is the second oldest gonpa in Lo Manthang, with fantastic murals in the dukhang (assembly hall). The Chhoede Gonpa complex, where the present abbot (Kempo) resides, includes a large monastic school, a museum, and the older Choprang Gompa. 

Lo Manthang Tiji Festival (Buddhist Lama Dance)
The Tiji festival, held in the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang, is the most auspicious of Upper Mustang’s colorful lama (cham) dances and prayer chants. The festival is a colorful and dramatic celebration of good presiding over evil, the story of Dorje Jono defeating a demon that was destroying the Kingdom of Mustang by taking its precious water source and spreading disease. The lunar Tiji Festival, started in the 17^th century, was originally performed at the Royal Palace but is now held at the larger Choede Monastery which has a monastic community of thawas (young monks), monks and lamas.

Kamzang Journeys goes to Lo Manthang for this incredibly interesting and photographic festival during some of our ‘Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Camping Treks’, run every Spring in Nepal.

Day 10 – Lo Manthang | Free Day OR Extra Day in Chhoser Valley
A wonderful extra day in this mythical walled capital, renown throughout the Tibetan Buddhist world. Or an extra day just north of Lo Manthang in the Chhoser valley. Relax, explore, chat with the locals, shop and enjoy our last evening in this magical capital. For a morning or afternoon hike, it’s a short, steep climb out of the walls to the viewpoint prayerflag just south of town …. And we highly recommend some colorful morning or evening koras of the walled city with the locals!  (B, L, D)

HORSE DISCLAIMER | Horses are a great way to visit both of these valleys as Mustang is a region famous for its horses. But we take no responsibility for anything that may happen on a horse, and horses must be hired from the horse owners, not from Kamzang Journeys. We will help with the arrangements if you want to do a day of horseback riding in Mustang, but bear no responsibility. 

Day 11 – Trek Chhoser Camp 3875m (12,713′) | Explore Nyphu Gonpa, Garphu Gompa, Jhong Caves & Druk Hill 
A wonderful couple day (or two) in the Chhoser valley await as we leave Lo Manthang, with the snow peaks bordering Tibet and the ruins of the once-imposing Lo Dzong ahead. Leaving Lo Manthang, we descend past the brick-red Chamba Gompa at the corner of Lo Manthang to the lower cast community living along the willows of the riverbed, climbing out along the jeep road. Our new epic, cultural (and stunning) route to Chhoser passes through the Namgyal and Kimaling valley, climbs the high ridges to the east and enters the Chhoser valley from the north! Leaving Lo Monthang behind the main gate and passing through the willow-lined, lower caste villages below, we climb up to Namgyal village below the monastery (Namgyal Gonpa translates as ‘Monastery of Victory’, spectacularly on top of the ridge). The young novices studying here are from all reaches of the Tibetan Buddhist world, though they are often studying in Pokhara and not in Lo Manthang. There are many ancient ruins surrounding the village, some gompas and others old fortresses. We trek north through green pastures, passing Phuwa village to our left, the ruins of ancient, crumbling monasteries and a small renovated monastery in the cliffs to the right, with new cement steps leading up to it. There are tremendous views of Namgyal Gompa backed by snow-peaks behind us as we wander up the valley, and white peaks in front of us bordering Tibet.

We continue to hike north, through the green grazing pastures, for about half an hour to reach lovely Kimaling (4030m), just across a long suspension bridge. We’ve had some lovely experiences with the local villagers at Kimaling, who don’t see very many trekkers; we’ve met them weaving, washing textiles, herding their sheep and goats and having pujas at the local monastery at the top of town. We might stop for salt-butter tea at a small homestay (home) near the local lhakang (temple). 

Crossing planted fields of barley and potatoes leaving Kimaling, we begin climbing very steeply to reach a prayer flag pole at the top of a hill (once also the home of an odd beehive in the baked mud), well worth the strenuous climb for the spectacular views down the valley towards Lo Manthang. After a break, we contour around the surrounding hillsides on goat and sheep tracks to reach the edge of the valley, and continue to contour heading north, now looking down on the beautiful Chhoser valley far below. Dropping steeply, we reach the Mustang Khola and hike for a few minutes along the rocky riverside to find the wooden bridge leading to the opposite side, always sharing the valley with grazing sheep, goats, cows and horses.

We’ll stop for a scenic lunch on the grass by the river, giving our feet a much-needed cooling. After lunch, we’ll visit two old monasteries and Jhong Caves before heading to camp. We found this spectacular Chhoser campsite a couple of years ago; the valley used to be prohibited for camping. It sits below an incredible complex of ancient fortresses, houses and chortens, fabulous in the late afternoon light. The owner has a small teahouse with hot showers (incredibly) nearby and owns the new Cave Hotel in Druk.

Next, we’ll hike to Garphu Gonpa, built in the 9^th century and belonging to the Nyimgmapa sect (so associated with Guru Rimpoche.) Trekking out of the village past newly painted and rebuild mani walls and chortens, we hike through small lanes, passing houses with red posts and often young Mustangi women weaving in the courtyards and looking up to more eroded cave complexes. Small alleyways lead us to the iconic Sakya Ngorpa (sect) Nyphu Gompa (3760m), with its Lo Khenchen cave (Lo Khenchen was an early monk who came from Tsarang and meditated in this cave) and some older meditation caves which were destroyed in the earthquake. The cave monastery is home to Khenpo Samdup, an important lama. Nyphu Gompa has 30 resident monks and lamas and 40 thawas (young monks), and is built directly into the rock face. A Sakya Rimpoche came in 2001 and built the new school. just below the gompa. The students spend 7 months in Mustang, and 5 months in Pokhara during the winter months. The ruins across the mostly dry riverbed are an old monastery that none of the villagers seem to know much about. ‘Nyphu had all the elements one could wish in a mysterious sacred retreat, possessing all the snugness of an underground hive and the grandeur of an eagle’s nest.’ –  Mustang; A Lost Tibetan Kingdom – Michel Peissel

The incredible cave-dwelling complex of Jhong is negotiated by ladders and through small tunnels (bring a headlamp), very interesting and reputed to be 2500 years old. In front of the caves, a range of spectacular snow peaks marks the border with Tibet, and gurgling streams and green meadows line the trails around us. High up in this valley, between the Jhong Caves and Rinchin Ling, many ruins are perched high up on craggy cliff sides, in impossible locations. Locals have told us that they are houses, but we imagine that several of them were dzongs, gompas or lookouts. The furthest monastery in this valley is Nyamdo Gompa, which we’ve not ever had the time to visit. 

Further options for the afternoon; explore the ruins above both sides of Druk village, incredibly scenic with fantastic views up and down the valley. Shija viewpoint and ruins are to the south, our campsite owner’s Cave Hotel in the middle, and to the north are the sacred ruins of an ochre monastery and dzong, with ancient crumbling chortens and newer prayer flags that we call Druk Hill. (6-8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 12.8 km (Including Jhong Caves & Druk Hill)

ROAD ROUTE | Exiting Lo Manthang the same way, we the dusty jeep road passes the ruins of the original Choede Gompa, passing through crumbling canyons, dry gullies, past ruined fortresses and the remains of ancient monasteries, relics of a more prosperous time past. Crossing a bridge across intersecting stream on the main road, we head right, cross the Nyichung Khola on a suspension bridge, and take the trail heading towards Druk, our favorite troglodyte village, hiking through lovely, textured cultivated regions. Taking a bit of time to explore this interesting cave village, perhaps visiting a cave-house, we hike for another 20 minutes or so to our Chhoser Camp across the river. 

Extra Day Chhoser Camp 3875m (12,713′) | Explore Rinchin Ling Cave &/or Drakphuk Konchok Ling Sky Caves
This valley was the main trade route with Tibet and Lhasa for centuries past, and is still peppered with the ruins of old fortresses guarding the strategic valley. Just north of the valley, over the border in Tibet, Lhakpa and I met a Tibetan man who dealt in the trade of rare animal skins with Mustangi traders, a risky and forbidden endeavor.
An extra day in our incredible camp to visit the newly discovered Rinchin Ling cave complex, which requires hiking up a steep hillside and entering the caves by a series of roped-together ladders (originally carried up by local villagers for a fee).

“The Ritseling Cave is located in Upper Mustang on a peak West of the Konchog Ling Cave. Prior to the last few years, it appears as though no one has entered the small cave complex in several hundred years. It has an assortment of murals with a large mandala close to the entrance along with several Buddha figures. Towards the back of the cave there is a mural depicting narrative scenes possibly of one of the occupants of the cave and his travels through Tibet and especially to Lhasa. Various protector deities are found along with a stunning image – large in size – of the nine-faced, eighteen-armed Garuda. The only other image of this Garuda in a Buddhist context is found in Phyang Monastery, Ladakh, India.” Excerpt from Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art

Day 12 – Trek Sam Dzong (Samjong, Samjung) 4015m (13,172′) | Cross Sam Dzong La (Gongmoche) 4050m (13,285′) | Optional Konchok Ling Cave Visit
Another off-the-map Himalayan trekking day as we leave Chhoser camp and trek to remote Sam Dzong (Samjong, Samjung) village. Leaving camp via Druk, the troglodyte village just to the south, we hike through lovely, textured cultivated regions, taking a bit of time to explore this interesting cave village, perhaps visiting a cave-house. We follow the small dirt road past the mani wall and cave chorten on the left, and reach the turnoff to Konchok Ling cave, a large valley to our left. 

We have the opportunity for a morning hike to the Drakphuk Konchok Ling cave, if the trail is in good condition (which it was in 2023). This little visited cave requires a seriously exposed hike along steep sided ridges, and a drop down using a set wire (rope), and is located north of the Chosar Cave complex. The paintings are very unique and interesting, and the landscape spectacular, well worth the hike up! For those with serious exposure issues, this isn’t the trail for you … 

Just past this valley, we continue through the village and begin to climb gradually at the end of town on a trail to the left, passing small clusters of prayer flags as we ascend gradually. We continue to contour up to the dramatic Sam Dzong La (Gongmoche), from where we have great Himalayan views as well as Lo Manthang below. We’ll stop to enjoy the views before a breathtaking, slightly precipitous descent through the contorted canyons and into the baked Sam Dzong Khola valley. We’ll be kept company by Lammergeiers and Himalayan griffins as we descend to the eroded river bottom, peppered by massive, crumbling chortens attesting yet again to an illustrious history now almost forgotten. (see pg 137 of Tucci)

Sam Dzong, meaning ‘border fortress’ or ‘earth watchmen’, is a remote village nestled amongst craggy cliffs. Because of water issues, the villagers have recently relocated to Namashung, a new village on the other side of the pass, although 7 families still keep a home in Sam Dzong. Note the many unused and broken black pipes along the mostly dry riverbed, and the complex of solar panels without a working battery. Sam Dzong is a starkly beautiful and traditional village, with friendly villagers who see few trekkers. At the far end of the village, in the school yard, is a ‘burial cave museum’ with remains from the sky caves explored by National Geographic and Nova.

Sam Dzong is the location of one of Mustang’s most important cave burial sites after the discovery of the Mebrak (Membrak) burial caves, dating from 400 BC – 50 AD. Sam Dzong’s burial caves date from 400 AD, so 800 years after the Medbrak sites. The Medbrak people buried their dead in boxes, layering them, the bodies in fetal positions. In contrast, 65% of Sam Dzong bones have flesh marks that clearly indicate defleshing of bones. Ceramics from 1000 BC (Chokhopani style – some of the original inhabitants of the Kali Gandaki valley) were also discovered in the Sam Dzong sites.

The staff have set up camp on the lower reaches of the village, an open area with wonderful views and near the slightly silty river, stained with white. Just above our campsite, you can scramble up a very steep slope to some ancient caves with painted Buddhist murals, and in the evening it’s worth taking a walk through town when the locals return with their flocks of sheep and goats. The Kamzang Fund sponsors a brother and sister from Sam Dzong (Pasang Dolma and Dawa Gyalgen), both of whom attend the Great Compassion Boarding School which was once Lo Manthang but is now in Pokhara. In the Autumn of 2017, Pasang Dolma was 8 years old and in class 1, and Dawa Gyalgen was 12 years old and in class 2. Dawa was also our guide for the trip to explore the complex of ruins above Sam Dzong, a slightly treacherous climb through crumbling hoodoos just north of camp. We might meet Wangdi Makpa Gurung, one of the only remaining men in the village, that we met in 2023. (4 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 9.6 km

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Extra Day – Trek Nomad Yertsa Mesa Camp 4785m (15,700′) | Cross Sam Dzong Mesa La Ridges 4365m (14,320′) & 4970m (16,305′)
Leaving Sam Dzong, we cross the small stream and climb almost immediately out of camp, ascending through a magical world of contorted, eroded canyons to reach a spectacular ridge top viewpoint at 4365 meters, again with views of Dhaulagiri. Classic Himalayan trekking! Staying high, we keep climbing and contour to 4790 meters, afterward trekking past several doksas, all the time with an expansive view of Dhaulagiri, Niligiri and the Annapurnas.

It’s quite a long route to reach our nomad camp, descending into and climbing out of two more steep gullies to reach the high Yertsa (summer) Mesa Nomad Camp high on a remote plateau near the border of Tibet. Before arriving at the plateau, we hike along a high, slightly expose trail and drop down to yet another small river valley, climbing back up along a boggy riverbed to our campsite, a long but rewarding day!

Most of the last nomadic families in Mustang lived here during the summer months until the harsh conditions forced them down to the camp nearer to Lo Manthang. Recently we found that two families, a brother and sister, still live in their traditional Tibetan tents, herding their yaks and tending their Pashmina goats and sheep, on this remote plateau. Watch out for their ferocious dogs!

From the plateau, some of the world’s largest peaks grace our sunset and sunrise views: Dhaulagiri, Niligiri, Thorung & Tilicho Peaks, Annapurna I. Our campsite is the one pictured in Peter Mathiessen’s book ‘East of Lo Manthang’, with nomads and their yak-haired tents backed by a towering Dhaulagiri, a breathtakingly beautiful spot. A prayer wall protects us from the north, and the nomads have told us that the border of Tibet is just an hour’s walk away.

If we trek this remote route to Nomad Mesa Camp, we will need our sandals for the river crossings the next morning, not deep but generally wide enough to not be able to jump the river. At a major sumdo (river junction) we head to the right and pass an old mill, now abandoned, looking up towards another crumbling cave complex. We continue past another abandoned doksa, cross the larger river another couple of times before reaching the mani walls and our campsite at Chudzong Gonpa. (8 hrs) (B, L, D)

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Day 13 – Trek Chodzong Gompa Camp 3850m (12,630′)
Leaving Sam Dzong, we cross the small stream and climb almost immediately out of camp on rich, dark soil, switchbacking quite steeply as we ascend through a magical world of contorted, eroded canyons to reach a spectacular ridge top viewpoint at 4365m. Contouring to a maximum altitude of 4650 meters, we cross the high ‘Tibetan’ plateau, passing a large doksa with high wire enclosures to keep wolves, jackals and snow leopards out, all the time with expansive views of Dhaulagiri, Niligiri and the Annapurnas. As we trek across the undulating plateau, trekking almost straight across towards the canyon ridge top to our right, look out for extremely rare grazing Tibetan gazelles. Finally, we stop for a dramatic lunch before starting the steep descent to the river valley. The views from the plateau looking across this vast expanse of Mustang are fantastic as we descend to the river bottom far below. We continue to trek down the dusty, steeply switchbacking trail, an incredible route with a few slightly exposed sections of trail, finally reaching the hot river valley after a 750m drop!

Once at the river bottom, we follow the riverbed south for about 20 minutes towards our campsite, passing a line of large Buddhist chortens and mani walls leading to the ruins of an abandoned village and Chudzong Gompa, ‘Castle of Faith’. Another translation, Chos Sung, means ‘listen to sacred books to’ after the tradition of walking the sacred Buddhist texts in a ‘kora’, the monks afterwards reading the texts to the nomads or villagers: this information from local nomadic families. Camp is set up just below the 14^th–15^th century Chodzong Gompa (the newer assembly hall is from the 10^th–20^th century), dramatically situated in the fluted cliffs above. Welcome to Matthiessen’s hidden Mustang!

After settling into camp, we can hike up to the hidden monastery which Peter Matthiessen wrote about in his book, ‘East of Lo Monthang’, an ancient monastery that houses (or once housed) some of the most important Buddhist artwork in Mustang. The monastery is a combination of Kargyu and Ngingma traditions, with some Sakya affiliations as well. The main gompa has a lock on the door but it’s almost still possible to hike up to a smaller prayer room in the back, often unlocked, though the trail is a bit risky. There was a very odd stuffed baby yak in one of the high caves, these days too dangerously situated to reach, and now oddly missing. Notice the tangle of antlers on top of the gonpa roof, and the tsatsas in several of the caves. There is an interesting maze of ruins above the main monastery, but the entrance to the main cave, which includes the incredible Buddhist murals pictured in Matthiessen’s book, has now crumbled away. The Italian art restorer Luigi Fini is making a book of the murals from this cave, perhaps the only ones that will ever be taken. (6 – 7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 12.8 km 

Day 14 – Trek Anka Doksa Camp 4260m (13,976′)
Leaving camp at Chudzong Gompa, we ascend the ridge to reach the trail below the monastery, continue to follow this high route for a short time and drop down again to reach more of the abandoned village (floods?). Crossing a flat plateau next to the river, we reach a short but steep climb to several large chortens and a long, ancient mani wall painted in red, all signifying the importance that Chu Dzong Gonpa enjoyed in years past. We continue to trek through the otherworldly contorted canyons, muted earth tones and narrowing passages, the wonderful world of ‘lost’ Mustang, colored with mustard and blood-orange stained rocks and sculptural salt and sulfur mounds. We have an hour or more of river crossings (sandals), with a few ascents and descents, salt drips, and rust-colored springs adorning this incredible canyon bed.

After 2 – 2½ hours of wading across the cold stream, we reach a wide river junction, turn left and pass our Canyon Camp (3710m) 15 minutes ahead, next to the grove of willows. After another 20 minutes, still jumping the small, pebbly Chaka Khola, we reach the start of the steep, 550-meter climb. As we ascend, enjoy the increasingly dramatic views down into the canyon and then across the high plateaus leading to Tibet. At the cairn at the top of the ridge, have a rest and wander to the stone doksa (which we call Sky Rock Doksa, 4470m) perched at the edge of the ridge, where we will have lunch while enjoying the awesome views overlooking the border of Tibet and the river valley below.

Continuing to trek along a relatively flat plateau, we contour around several hillsides, staying high and passing several cairns marking the trail; the highest cairn is at 4405m, another 200m above lunch on a much more gradually ascending trail. A bit more flat contouring and we finally descend steeply on a weather-hardened trail to the green Anka (Kepuchhimi) Doksa at the valley bottom, a stream running through the nomadic settlement. We spot our idyllic campsite from the plateau above, a magical setting. We might share the campsite with the large flocks of sheep and goats returning to the doksa for the evening. If so, be careful of the accompanying dogs. Have a wander through this large nomadic settlement, lovely in the evening light. (7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 14.3 km

Day 15 – Trek Yara 3610m (11,845′) | Cross Ghara La 4380m (14,370′). Visit Luri Gompa 3985m (13,075′) & Tashi Kabum
More fabulous Himalayan trekking this morning as we jump the small stream and hike through the opposite side of the doksa, littered with dung. We start the morning with a relatively gradual climb back up to the plateau, again contouring around hillsides, treated to expansive views of the sculpted rocks and canyons surrounding us as well as spectacular views of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. More easy contouring and two small cairns later, we reach the Ghara La, from where we begin another dramatic descent on a dusty trail, past several cave dwellings, towards the green oasis of Ghara (3930m), with its ruined gonpa, chortens and old, winding walls. En route, we’ll look down onto the red and white striped Luri Gonpa and the patchwork of terraced fields of barley surrounding Ghara and Yara villages. Heading either directly down to the grove of sacred junipers, or northeast out of Ghara if we take the easier trail down, we trek about 45-minute along a jeep trail towards Luri Gonpa, past the ruins of an old village and gonpa and Buddhist chortens, with wonderful views back to Ghara, Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. 

The fabled Druk-pa Luri Gompa with its complex of Tibetan Buddhist caves, some of which are accessible others now forever inaccessible, are some of the highlights of Upper Mustang. One of the older Kings of Lo married a Bhutanese princess, thus the Druk-pa influence. The newer monastery is below near the riverbed while the 14^th –15^{th ‘}Kabum Stupa’, made of highly polished stucco and painted with intricately detailed Newari-styled Buddhist frescos of the Kagyupa saints Tilopa, Naropa and Marpa, is above the older Luri Gompa, built amongst the fluted cliffs. Historians write that the stupa and murals of Tashi Kumbum stupa are amongst a group of 7 to 9 sacred kabums, most of which have been rendered inaccessible due to the intense erosion in Mustang, remaining hidden throughout history. Kabum is “a term unfamiliar to Tibetologists but defined in Mustang as a chorten erected by an individual in response to a divine command delivered in a dream or during meditation.” – Slusser and Bishop

Trekking a short way down to the river, we hike past fantastic, sculpted canyons with the remains of a network of ancient caves, now eroded enough to be inaccessible. We soon reach the Tashi Kumbum complex, previously only accessible via a narrow ledge of a trail. Tashi Kumbum is a newly discovered group of six cave dwellings, with fantastic Buddhist murals and a large exquisitely painted chorten, now (sadly) rebuilt and painted in bright, gaudy colors though some of the frescoes on the wall are still intact. Gary McCue, who went to Tashi Kabum over 20 years ago, wrote in an article in Asian Art that the approach was very difficult and often dangerous, which we can attest to! The access trail to Tashi Kabum cave was rebuilt in 2020 and is now safe. Our lodge owner in Yara (now living with another woman in Lo Manthang) was actually the one who discovered the ancient Tashi Kumbum with Gary McCue years ago.

“The Tashi Kabum cave is almost a twin of the Luri cave in dimension, layout and design. These domed, rounded grottoes are about four to five meters across, four to five meters tall, and hand-carved into the mountain. Both caves originally had a single entryway and both have one small window overlooking the valley to the left of the entry. In Tashi Kabum a new passage tunnel has been crudely cut into the wall opposite to the original entryway, opening into an empty, adjacent cave that has lost its entrance due to erosion of the cliff. The walls and ceilings of both cave temples are covered in plaster and are attractively painted. In the center of each cave is a beautifully crafted chorten surrounded by sufficient floor space for circumambulation. The chortens are very similar in size and shape and vary primarily in decorative details. Unfortunately Tashi Kabum cave has been vandalized and the chorten is only in fair condition; the upper dome has been broken open, many of the bas-relief decoration pieces encircling the base of the dome are damaged or missing, and prayer text folios from inside the chorten are now lying scattered on the cave floor. The base of each chorten is approximately 2.5 meters across, consisting of a series of staggered 12-cornered tiers. The terracotta spire of the Luri chorten rises about three meters from the floor and is crowned by a canopy. The Tashi Kabum chorten probably stood as tall with a similar terracotta spire. The Luri chorten is more ornate with small paintings around the different tiers of the base and four larger frescoes on the upper dome. The Tashi Kabum chorten has no paintings on the dome, and although the tiered levels of the base are damaged, they appear to have had no paintings or decorations. The exterior of the chortens is covered with an unusually smooth and hard ceramic-like glazing, unlike any chorten I’ve seen in Nepal, Tibet or elsewhere in my travels in the Himalaya”. – Gary McCue

After exploring the caves and having lunch on the riverbed, we trek for about 45 minutes trekking along the rocky, saligram dotted Puyung Khola riverbed to lovely, green Yara. Look across the riverbed to the fantastic complex of caves built into the fluted hoodoos. Yara Gompa and the small school are in the lower reaches of the village.

Camp is set up above Saribung Guest House, in the middle section of Yara, a bustling village full of Mustangi life and apricot trees, the seeds a gift from the King of Ladakh in years past! Have a walk above the village in the afternoon, lovely with the sun shining through the willow leaves which brighten the village. We sponsor two young girls from Yara, Tsering Kondo (who has a hearing impairment) and her sister Pasang Lhamo, who goes to school in Chhusang. We’ll have a lively visit from Tsering Kondo, who will be selling her crafts (also perhaps Pasang Lhamo if she is home), and will have the opportunity to visit their home. We might be treated to a cultural dance in the evening, so be ready for a lively Mustangi party. And the jackals are almost always howling in the evenings! (7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 12.8 km

Day 16 – Trek Dhe 3930m (12,895′)
We continue our remote Nepal trek, hiking a little-used route on the far eastern fringes of Mustang. Leaving Yara below Saribung Guest House, we pass through the village across the riverbed, passing the spring, and descending again to the Puyung Khola. We climb for about half an hour, passing edible yellow flowers blooming from the thorny shrubs, to reach the plateau above the hoodoos. We cross the first section of the plateau, ascend a bit to contour around the ridge ahead, and hike up and down eroded gullies, taking time to admire the scenery. Finally, we reach the end of the plateau and a steep, rocky descent to the rocky river bottom below, hiking below (to the right) of the new suspension bridge which leads towards Dri. The settlement ahead is Phangyakawa, the new village and apple orchards where the Dhe-pa have resettled for at least part of the year. After a short break, we put on sandals and trek up the rocky and windy Dechyang Khola riverbed, collecting saligrams as we go, wading across the river for an hour or so. 

Ascending from the riverbed at 3400m, we follow the arid hillside on a steep trail, hiking through eroded gullies, and a bit later in the afternoon trekking through an old mudslide that resembles a muddy glacier. We continue on this undulating trail finally climbing a bit to stay on a high trail, passing several old chortens along the way. To our left just before Dhe, an ancient cluster of cave dwellings appear dramatically in the cliff faces; behind, a distant trail leads to Damodar Kunda.

Camp is hidden until we reach the eastern fringes of the remote village of Dhe, one of the most isolated villages in the Nepal Himalaya. The inhabitants partially relocated to the settlement we passed earlier today as there are serious water issues in Dhe, though with fewer families living in Dhe (only 7 now) and fewer fields to irrigage there is always running water in the streams and flooded fields. We asked villagers about the water shortages, which they told us occur during the winter months, when springs and pipes freeze. Dhe is a lively and beautiful village with an old gompa, ruins above the village, old trees and sculpted fields, and the villagers are friendly and welcoming as visitors are scarce. A Nepali filmmaker made a documentary about Dhe and its plight called ‘The Last Yak Herder of Dhe’ (see article from Nepali Times). Our friend Nyima Chhoten and other villagers usually come by to say hello. (7 – 7½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 14 km

The Last Yak Herder of Dhe | Fidel Devkota
Part 1
Part 2

Day 17 – Trek Tangge 3360m (11,025′) | Cross Dhe La 4245m (13,925′)
Leaving Dhe, we trek southwest through this contorted landscape, passing two sets of tricolored chorten and climbing out of the village on an undulating trail. We trek through a fantastic moonscape, an ancient landslide that stirs up thousands of saligrams, to the Dhe La on the ridge saddle not far above. The cairn at the top is decorated with saligrams (ammonites), a tribute to Vishnu and the local gods. The beautiful 900m descent is colored by ochre, weather-worn rocks sculpted by centuries of wind and water erosion. The trail contours through the unique landscape, with views of the Himalaya in front as we descend. Soon we see the Tangge ahead of us, an incredibly stunning village with monumental ochre and white chortens, long mani walls, and traditional dwellings surrounded by billowing, green barley fields.

Tangge is a village of twenty houses, many sheep, goats and large mastiffs, and the largest chorten in Mustang, over 50 feet high (this is the ‘Raja Chorten’, while the ‘Rani Chorten’ is just nearby). There was a massive mudslide years ago which wiped out many of the houses and fields on both banks of the river. An elder of the village told us there were over a hundred houses in Tangge before this disaster. At the far end of the village, above the hoodoos, is the high route to Yara, also now a jeep track. Look to the south for views of the snow peak called Ka Karru by local Tangge-pa

Camp is set up in front of our friend Mentok’s Shambala Hotel (we used to stay at her mother’s campsite and lodge just below) at the top of the village, just above the long line of mani walls and massive chortens, a site sheltered from the unrelenting Mustang winds. Enjoy the rest of the day exploring the maze of Tangge, often with the local kids as guide; the best photo of the chortens is below the barley fields in the late afternoon. And Mentok is a wonderful weaver if you’re interested in shopping for textiles inside the lodge! (3½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.7 km

Day 18 – Tangge | Explore Tangge, Momo Making Class & Optional Day Hike Tiri (Teri) La Route
A free day in beautiful Tangge, with Tibetan homes to visit, a preschool in the back of the lodge (we were lucky to have our free day in Tangge during the typhoid vaccination in 2022), a solar shower and nearby taps for washing; overall a wonderful place to relax and catch up on camping life. We might meet our young friend Tsering Yangchen, 10 years old, and attends class 4 in Pokhara (2022), and her older sister Pema Dikki; Tsering Yangchen showed us the apricot, walnut and pear trees in town, and spend the day in our campsite with us.

There is a newly discovered cave with an ancient chorten just a few minutes from camp, visible from the scree field below it but essentially unreachable. A young boy from Tangge took us up to the cave in 2019, and was planning to write a book about his community. We help to sponsor some young girls from Tangge, Yangi Lhamo and Tsering Angmo, and will meet their lovely grandmother in the afternoon. Tshering is another friend who owns a small homestay at the bottom of the village. We might meet Pasang, the brother of Mentok, a local teacher at the school. 

We also have the option to hike up the black dirt hillside across from camp – the Tiri La route – for great views down over Tangge. A great morning’s hike is up 430 meters to some prayer flags, and then back down the same way, a 2 or so hour excursion. Junar and Yam might host a momo making class in the afternoon if anyone is interested in learning the intricate craft of making these Tibetan dumplings. 

Day 19 – Trek Paha 4075m (13,370′) | Cross Paha La 4185m (13,730′)
A shorter Himalayan trekking day today (though not an easy one) so we have time for some wonderfully scenic morning photos of Tangge from the ruins just above camp. Leaving Tangge, we trek to the north of the village to the chorten above, cross the suspension bridge across the Tangge Khola, and again stop for views back on Tangge from the chorten across the valley. We hike for about 45 minutes on an undulating trail which rounds the corner, and then cross the river high above the riverbed on a new suspension bridge. Next, an unrelenting ascent of 800m to the Paha Tangge La (Paa La), which is topped with fluttering Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags, with great Himalayan views. After lunch at the top of the pass (if it’s not too windy), we hike along an easy, undulating trail for half an hour to the seasonal doksa of Paha. We reach our chilly camp at Paha doksa quite early in the afternoon, with time to hike up from camp to more seasonal settlements and the high trails leading to Tetang and Muktinath. (There is no water on this ridge line trail to Tetang except for in Paha).

There are often Tangge villagers with their flocks of sheep and goats in 4 tiers of doksas on the spur of the plateau below camp, and another yak-hair tent at the doksa at the big rock above us (where we often pick local greens) , and friendly mastiffs who might come to greet us. Evenings and mornings are chilly, but the dramatic views are stunning. We might carry water from Paha to the plateau just above us, a bit cleaner and warmer. (4½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 9.4 km

Day 20 – Trek Tetang 2995m (9695′)
A relatively challenging Himalayan trekking day as we hike along one of Mustang’s far-flung ridge top trails trekking along the high, eastern winter route towards Tetang. There is no water along this trail, so be prepared with enough water in your day pack. Leaving Paha, we spend the day trekking on top of this roller-coaster ridge line trail following the Siyarko Tangk Danda, with dramatic Himalayan vistas as we pass through this wild region. We crest several small cairn-topped ridges (4164m, 4080m + 4015m are the highests ones); enjoy photos breaks while looking out across much of Upper Mustang, and have lunch in one of Mustang’s spectacular outdoor cafes.

Trekking closer to Tetang, we begin our descent on a slightly exposed but safe trail of baked sand, always far above the valley below. We previously crossed a sand-rock natural bridge and hiked down an impossibly-hewn trail in the sedimentary hillside, though the trail is now much improved. Passing through a world of hoodoos and ancient caves, we descend on a good trail in the direction of Chhusang, switchbacking back towards our wonderful campsite at Tetang, a full circle. (7 – 8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 16.9 km

Day 21 – Trek Chhungar 3755m (12,320′) | Cross Gyu La 4070m (13,355′)
Climbing out of Tetang past the iconic , we start our ascent of the Gyu La pass, heading towards the Annapurna region. We hike past the long mani wall at the end of the village, ascend past the many ancient chortens and continue up along the boulder-strewn path, with amazing views down on Tetang. Once past the large willow tree, stream, and irrigation ditch, we ascend towards the Gyu La, the border of Lower Mustang. Trekking through a green grazing valley peppered with local doksas, we climb on a sandy trail with increasingly awesome views, looking back to the Upper Dolpo region. There is a slightly exposed section of trail on good scree, and just afterward a small climb followed by a verdant green spring, and soon afterward we reach the flat-topped Gyu La pass, our last Himalayan pass of the trek.

Hanging our last set of Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags, we drop down a long trail to Chunggar, a hike of 1 – 1 ½ hours, stunningly beautiful in the bright early afternoon light. Prayer flags flutter in the wind from the flat Mustangi rooftops, sending prayers out into the world. Our camp is just above the village; we can either cross the suspension bridge and hike through the village or take the higher route directly to camp and drop down for a visit after getting settled in. There is a new, brightly striped community center just below our camp, where village women have set up their looms. This center also contains some oddly dense round rocks … The Himalayan views from camp are fantastic at sunset and sunrise, so don’t miss getting out to enjoy the surroundings! (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.3 km

Day 22 – Trek Muktinath & Lubra | Cross Lubra La 3825m. Drive Jomsom 2720m (8,924′) | Visit Muktinath Temple Complex
Waking to a wonderful Himalayan morning, we pack up camp for the last time. We’ll hike along a nearly flat trail for the half-hour, scenic walk to Muktinath, the trail overlooking some of the traditional villages, patchwork fields, monasteries, and ponds of Lower Mustang. We’ll spend an hour or so visiting the Muktinath Temple Complex with the Nepali and Indian pilgrims, and the many saffron-clad saddhus. Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows’ heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai Buddhist temple with a perpetual spouting flame, and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water.

Descending the 300-something steps that we walked up, we’ll pass through Ranipauwa where there is lots of local shopping, and yak tails to adorn your horses or dust your house are also sold, and on to our jeep where we have an easy drive back to Jomsom. OR we have an option to do a 10.5 km stunningly beautiful hike through Lower Mustang, from the Muktinath bazaar at Ranipawa, past grazing sheep, goats and cows, through fields of yellow (prickly) flowers, up and over the ‘Lubra La’ pass, and down steeply to Lubra, Lower Mustang’s renown Bon-po village. 

“The people of Lubra, who believe the village was founded in the late 12^th century, have preserved their traditional way of life. A village of just fourteen families, Lubra is one of the few fully Bon villages in Nepal. According to local legend, the Bon Lama Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen came from Tibet via Dolpo and subdued the unruly local spirits, allowing the area to become suitable for human settlement. He planted a walnut tree as a divination to determine whether a village would flourish there. The ancient, gnarled walnut tree survives to this day.

Once tamed, the most powerful spirit among them hollowed out a sunny meditation cave on the hillside opposite the Panda Khola from modern-day Lubra as an offering to Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen, so he would have a suitable place for his practice. The name ‘Lubra’ refers to uniquely textured cliffs on that side of the Panda Khola, which look like snakeskin, spread out and frozen in time on the rock face. Serpentine naga spirits are known as ‘lu’ in the local Mustangi dialect of Tibetan, and ‘bra’ (also pronounced ‘dak’), means rock cliffs.

Traditionally, the people of Lubra built their houses with combined techniques of stacked foundation stones and rammed earth walls, topped with earthen roofs. As in other Baragaon and Thakali villages, they plaster the outer walls with red and white clay for decoration, and store firewood on the top edges of their flat roofs. Lubra belongs to one of the nineteen villages of the Baragaon region of Lower Mustang, which is commonly misunderstood to mean the “twelve villages” that lie above Jomsom and below Lo Manthang (now referred to as Upper Mustang). Baragaon is a Nepali mispronunciation of the Mustangi word Bar Gun, which means “the area in between,” referring to the region sandwiched between Lo Manthang above and the Thak Khola Valley below.

As all over the Himalayas, climate change has altered the water cycle, and overgrazing on the slopes above the Panda Khola has reduced the capacity of the mountainside to retain water, resulting in the loss of top soil due to erosion and more intense higher-level flooding. In the past five years or so, glacial runoff has been increasing rapidly, eating away at agricultural fields along the river bed. Nowadays, during flash floods, the river violently carves away at the banks below the village, causing field edges to be lost to the torrent. During the summer monsoon of 2017, dozens of square meters of farmland were washed away, along with a 70-year-old chorten, an important local religious monument.

Recently, the families of Lubra organized a community homestay project called Mustang Bon Homestay Village, to support the preservation of the unique culture and traditions of Mustang, which are slowly being lost due to the pressures of modernization and emigration abroad. By offering visitors homestay accommodations in the village, the community hopes to create an economic incentive for young entrepreneurs to both remain in the village and maintain local cultural and agricultural practices by involving visitors in unique local experiences. Examples of such experiences include participating in local dancing, mask dancing, cultural songs, and learning alongside traditional agricultural practices, which include planting and harvesting buckwheat, barley, maize, millet, potatoes, and other vegetables, kidney beans, fruit trees such as apricots, walnuts, and apples, and animal husbandry with goats, horses, cows, sheep, chickens, and dzo, the common cross between a male yak and cow, which is more suited to the altitude and climate.

In the center of Lubra village stands Yungdung Phuntsok Ling, an ancient Bon monastery with unique wall paintings and statues, where a five-day masked dancing festival occurs every September or October, depending on the lunar calendar. There are other Bon monasteries in Lower Mustang, such as in Kobang and Naurikot, but none are maintained in the ancient traditional way of hereditary priesthood such as in Lubra, where the eldest son of every family must strictly perform ritual duties and participate in prayers on auspicious days throughout the year. Due to this system, the local traditions have been well maintained in a way that is uncommon in the modern Himalayas.

When visiting Lubra, one should make time to sit in the small Bon temple on the mountainside above the village, called Gon Phuk, which means “winter cave.” It is the site of one of the natural meditation caves where the founder of Lubra village spend many years in meditation retreat, which was later developed into a temple. From the temple, one can climb to see ancient meditation caves on the rock cliffs above the village, which are seldom visited.. – Inside, Himalaya. “Lubra, the Hidden Bon Village of Lower Mustang” (https://www.insidehimalayas.com/lubra-hidden-bon-village-lower-mustang/)

From Lubra, we take a jeep back to Jomsom to avoid the road. We arrive at Trekkers Inn, on the long, cobbled airport road, well in time for lunch. You have the afternoon free to wander, wash and shop. We’ll celebrate our trek through ‘Forbidden’ Mustang at the Trekker’s Lodge in the evening, handing out tips, extra gear, and beers to our fantastic Kamzang Journeys staff. (B, L, D)
Distance: 4.2 km + 10.5 km
Distance Driving: 5 km

Day 23 – Fly Pokhara & Kathmandu | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
We’ll be up early (again) for our mountain flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, flying between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South before landing in Pokhara. Staying in the domestic airport, we transfer to our last flight of the Upper Mustang journey. Back at the Kathmandu Guest House, showers are hot and we have the rest of the afternoon to relax in the garden. We’ll meet for a farewell dinner. (B)

Extra Day Pokhara
Want to spend an extra day relaxing in Pokhara? Confirm your intention with Kim before leaving for the trek, and we can make arrangements for you to take the flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu a day (or more) later. Enjoy your time relaxing Pokhara; wander the shore of Phewa Lake (Lakeside Road takes you all the way along the southeast side of the lake and there is a beautiful new walking trail right along the lake), paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views, enjoy a glass of fresh juice while doing some shopping, or just sit and relax at the hotel with a book. (B)

TRAVEL NOTE | In the case of flight cancellation out of Jomsom everyone will be responsible for their lunch and dinners at Trekkers Inn, and we will pay for the accommodation.

Day 24 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) for your flight home. Tashi Delek + Namaste! (B)

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Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

2025 Dates
3 – 27 May
25 Days

2025 Trek Price
$5680

+ EARLY BOOKING PRICE $5480 (UNTIL 31 JAN 2025)

+ FREE Single Supplement (Single Tents & Kathmandu Guest House)!
+ Domestic Flights Included (4)
+ 18-Day Upper Mustang & ACAP Permits Included
+ Price for 5+ Trekkers

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Hotel & Lodge Upgrades (Mustang Camping Trek)
+ Lakeview Resort Single Upgrade A/C Cottage – $50 (Single Room)
+ Hotel Barahi Upgrade -– $65 (Per Room)
+ Om’s Home Upgrade – $45 (Per Room)
+ Trekkers Inn Jomsom Single Upgrade – $10

Hotel & Lodge Upgrades (Mustang Lodge Trek)
+ Hotel Barahi Upgrade – $70 Single | $45 Double/Per Room
+ Maya’s Heritage Inn (Tsarang) Upgrade – $150 Deluxe | $250 Suite Per Room/Per Night
+ Royal Mustang Resort (Lo Manthang) Upgrade – $225 Standard | $285 Deluxe | $475 Suite Per Room/Per Night
+ Royal Mustang Resort Tiji Festival Rates – Extra $200 Per Room/Per Night
+ Om’s Home (Jomsom) Upgrade – $65 Single | $40 Double

Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades 
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

Chitwan Extensions | Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge or Barahi Jungle Lodge
$ Inquire

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Includes

• Western & Sherpa Guide | Kim & Lhakpa Sherpa
• Upper & Lower Dolpo Permits
• Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP) Permits
• Kathmandu Guest House (Breakfast)
• All Domestic Flights (4)
• Hotels En Route to Trek
• Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
• Airport Transfers
• NO Single Supplement on Trek!
• Kamzang Journeys Boutique Camping Treks
  Our signature Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness (dining tent), 3-person dome tents (NO single supplement), delicious & plentiful food with seasonal, fresh produce, yummy snacks & deserts, French Press organic Nuwa Estante coffee, masala chai, Kashmiri & herbal teas, filtered drinking water, warm washing water, library, colorful Indian dhuri rugs, camp chairs, blankets, occasional local tent music in evenings, oxygen & PAC bag (when needed), full medical kit, horses, yaks &/or porters, Western & Sherpa guides, & our 5-star Kamzang team!

Safety & Health Precautions | Included in Trek

• Thuraya Satellite Phone
• InReach Satellite Messaging System (Free Texts on Trek)
• Updated Route Published on InReach Site
• Helicopter Evacuation Services (Excluding Cost of Evacuation)
• Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
• PAC Bag (Portable Oxygen Chamber)
• Full Medical Kit & Stretcher
• Filtered Drinking Water
• Delicious, Plentiful Meals
• Large Variety of Hot Drinks & French Press Organic Coffee

Excludes

• International Flights
• Travel Medical & Travel Insurance (Both Required)
• Nepal Visa
• Helicopter Evacuation
• Meals (While Not on Trek)
• Monastery Donations
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol, Sodas & Packaged Drinks
• Laundry
• Tips

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $350 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

Trip Advisor Reviews

Trek Highlights

• Our Unique Trek Through Incredible Upper Mustang (NO Roads)
• 18-Day Upper Mustang Permit!
• Once Forbidden Walled City of Lo Manthang (Lo Monthang)
• Luri Gompa, Tashi Kabum & the Sky Caves of Upper Mustang (Tibetan Buddhist & Burial Caves)
• Konchok Ling & Rinchin Ling Caves
• Ancient, Crumbling Fortresses, Palaces & Buddhist Cave Hermitages
• The Incredible Buddhist Monasteries & Murals of Upper Mustang
• Remote Trek Through ‘Old Tibet’
• Khampa Settlements, Tibetan Architecture & Customs
• Camping with Tibetan Nomads with their Yaks, Sheep & Pashmina Goats
• Incredible Sculpted Valleys, Wild Rock Formations, Deep River Gorges & Saligrams
• Classic Scenery of the High Tibetan Plateau
• The Kali Gandaki Gorge & Fossil Collecting
• Extra Days for Exploration
• Kamzang Journeys Boutique Cam;ping Style
• Kamzang Journeys Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness
• Single Tents with NO Single Supplement!

Nepal Times
Gift a Goat to Tibet Nomads in Nepal
“Local communities and trekking groups have been helping the nomads living near Lo Manthang recover. One of them is Kamzang Journeys, which specializes in taking trekking teams to camp and travel with the nomads. It has set up The Nomad Fund, and says the money collected from its Adopt a Goat program is delivered directly to nomad families. Despite its name, the $150 per goat collected can be used by the nomads as they need, whether for food and supplies, medical care or to purchase replacement livestock. “The Adopt a Goat project is very close to our hearts as we have been trekking with these resilient, warm, generous and tough nomads for nearly two decades,” says Kim Bannister of Kamzang Journeys. “We provide families with financial help when they lose their animals during winters, and help with sales of their hand-woven textiles.” 

Trekkers’ Trip Comments & Reviews
“A fantastic trip; I can’t say enough good things about Kamzang Journeys! There are many trekking companies, and comparisons can be confusing. If you are looking for a well-organized, safe, fantastic trek, then look no further. Kim and company will introduce you to the Upper Dolpo region, its people and the majestic mountains. This is no cookie-cutter trek: her knowledge of the area and its people is unsurpassed and she generously shares her love of Nepal with trekkers, her excellent staff, and villagers along the way. The best!”
– TripAdvisor Review, Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2019

“Kamzang Journeys trips are, without a doubt, the best way to take a ‘regular’ destination and turn it into a great adventure that goes above and beyond. If a normal tour trip does something, Kamzang Kim will do it better. If the normal itinerary goes to the normal spots, Kamzang Journeys will take you to the less-known, rarely-visited, special and fantastic places. And on top of that? Kim and Lhakpa are a true pleasure to deal with, and make the process fun. The details are taken care of. The camps have a personal touch. Everywhere you go, they know the locals. Everywhere you camp, you feel at home. What more could a trekker ask for?”
– Alex P, (Canada) Sky Caves + Last Nomads of Upper Mustang Trek 2017

“Another amazing trek with Kamzang Journeys! I just finished one month trek in Upper Mustang, a month of great views and great fun. This is my fourth trek with Kim, and I strongly recommend this company to anyone who is dreaming to discover the Himalaya. Safety is a priority, the staff is very well trained and extremely caring, the variety and the quality of food is amazing, comfort level is very high. But the biggest plus are Kim and Lhakpa, that go out of their way to make this experience unforgettable!”
– Eli S (Italy), Sky Caves, Last Nomads of Mustang + Teri La Pass Trek 2018

“Another wonderful trek with Kamzang Journeys through the canyons, high passes, and remarkable culture of Upper Mustang. Kim Bannister and Lhakpa run excellent adventures! Himalayan know-how, experience, heart and humor, great food and a wonderful crew make Kamzang Journeys a special experience!”
– Sky Cave & Last Nomads of Upper Mustang Trek 2018

“Kim and her Kamzang Journeys team are fantastic! The food was excellent, love the cinnamon scrolls  Kim and all of her crew do a great job of looking after everyone. After a long days trekking it was great to see the Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness ready and waiting with hot tea and snacks …”
– Colin B (Australia), Sky Cave + the Last Nomads of Mustang Trek Spring 2017

“I have done numerous treks in the Himalayan region over the last 25 years, and I would rate Kamzang Journeys at the top of my list for trekking companies. Excellent service, attention to detail, great food, good equipment, friendly and competent staff. We had far more snow than normal on our March-April trek, and alternate plans were made while sticking as much as possible to the original itinerary. The crew went above and beyond to help us get where we wanted to go. Pay attention to the trip description. They travel to out of the way places and take the more difficult route – on purpose!”
– Kate C (USA), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2015

“I would really recommend Kamzang Journeys to anyone who is looking for a great Himalayan experience! On reflection there was a lot more that I got out this trek than I initially realized. We faced many challenges due to unseasonal weather but Kim and Lhakpa always found a way to get us where we needed to be. Kamzang Journeys provides a unique experience that is backed by professionals who go out of their way to make the trek as exciting and enjoyable as possible. “
– Greg W (Australia), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2015

Thank you for providing me and so many others with truly life changing and remarkable experiences.  It really is special for me to be there and I couldn’t do it without your guidance and expertise. You do a lot of good for a lot of people, Kim!
– Darrel S, Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2018

“Mustang is a must with Kim! In 2013 I was lucky enough to trek with Kim through the upper mustang region of Nepal. This was my second trip to Nepal but my first with Kamzang Journeys. Kim and her talented crew created a welcoming and safe environment to explore the upper mustang region including the highlight of visiting the last nomads in Nepal. Kim’s organizational skills and connections in the region insured any unforeseen circumstances were dealt with humor and a minimum of fuss. I will never forget this experience and look forward to many years of trekking with Kim and Kamzang Journeys. Kim, Thanks to you & Lhakpa for the fantastic adventure you gave us! You kept us safe and gave us memories that will stay with us forever. I had so much fun and so many laughs, a Kamzang adventure!”
– Sue W (Australia), GHT | Nar Phu to Upper Mustang Trek 2013

“Thank you for making this trip one of the most memorable ones in my lifetime. You have been a friend when I needed one, a leader when the group needed one, an impeccable organizer and a great conversationalist. I marvel at your unlimited energy.”
– Shivan M (USA, India), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2011

“Thanks again for the absolutely spectacular trip, and hopefully we won’t delay nearly as long next time in making our way back to Nepal!”
– Anne P (Canada), GHT | Nar Phu to Upper Mustang Trek 2014″Thank you for making this trip one of the most memorable ones in my lifetime. You have been a friend when I needed one, a leader when the group needed one, an impeccable organizer and a great conversationalist. I marvel at your unlimited energy.”
– Shivan M (USA, India), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2011

“Thanks again for the absolutely spectacular trip, and hopefully we won’t delay nearly as long next time in making our way back to Nepal!”
– Anne P (Canada), GHT | Nar Phu to Upper Mustang Trek 2014

“I did the Upper Mustang Trek in 2011 and the Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek in 2012 with Kim and her outstanding crew, and am going back again this coming April. Kim is truly professional, reliable, safe and very organized. Kim and Lhakpa’s knowledge of these remote countries make you feel so relaxed that you just enjoy the scenery everyday. They also know the people in the different villages we go through. At camp the food is excellent, clean and gear is top. It is an incredible experience!”
– Nan S (France), Sky Caves & the Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2011, Sacred Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek 2012

Not Enough? Check Us Out on Trip Advisor …
TripAdvisor Reviews!
   

See All our Clients’ Reviews!
Why our clients come back year after year …
Travelers’ Reviews

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Kamzang Journeys Camping Menus
Camping Menus

Kamzang Journeys Products
Duffel bags, t-shirts, camp towels, buffs, handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes + bags, Himalayan textile pillow covers + more available in Kathmandu!
Kamzang Journeys Products

Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa.

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Clear Sky, Red Earth: A Himalayan Story – Sienna Craig & Tenzin Norbu

Articles, Videos & Documentaries on Mustang
Gift a Goat to Upper Mustang Nomads | Nepali Times (Kamzang Journeys, The Kamzang Fund)

This Ancient Himalayan Kingdom has been Isolated from the World – Until Now | National Geographic Online

Interviews with Tibetan Nomads of Upper Mustang | Video (Lhakpa Dorji + Nuru Sherpa, The Kamzang Fund)

Magnificent Mustang Trekking Nepal’s Mountain Deserts | Lonely Planet (Bradley Mayhew)

Myths & Mountains in Nepal | NY Times (Edward Wong)

As Himalaya Warms, Nepal’s Climate Migrants Struggle to Survive | NY Times

Yak Herders’ Vanishing Way of Life | NY Times

Buddhists, Reconstructing Sacred Tibetan Murals, Wield Their Brushes in Nepal | NY Times

Nepal, the Great Plunder | Al Jazeera 101 East Video

Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge | Al Jazeera 101 East

Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge | Al Jazeera 101 East Video

Cave People of the Himalayas | National Geographic

Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic

New Death Ritual Found in Himalaya | National Geographic

Lost Treasures of Tibet | PBS Documentary

Cave People of the Himalaya | PBS Documentary

The Ancient Mysteries of Mustang’s Caves | BBC

How Tibetans Survive on the Roof of the World | BBC

Before They Pass Away (Photos) | Jimmy Nelson

Earth Door Sky Door – Paintings of Mustang by Robert Powell | Asian Art

Foreign Correspondent: The Road | ABC Australia

Inside the Forbidden Kingdom of Lo | ABC Australia

Mustang & Its Eastern Route | The Khampa Route | Jeff Fuchs Tea + Mountain Journals

Mustang & the Kingdom of Lo | In the Himalayas of Nepal with Explorer Jeff Fuchs | Outpost Magazine

Mustang: Lives & Landscape of the Lost Tibetan Kingdom | Photo Essay – Global Oneness Project

Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art

Nepal Diary: A Gift of Sight Expedition | The Active Times

Modernizing Mustang | Global Oneness Project

A Fortress in the Sky: The Last Forbidden Kingdom of Tibetan Culture (Photo Essay) | Washington Post

Himalayan Healers | Nepali Times

Mustang, the Kingdom of Lo | (excerpts from Kamzang Journeys)

Last King of Mustang Dies at 86 | My Republica

Last King of Remote Buddhist Kingdom Dies in Nepal | Indian Express

The Heights We Go To | Archeology

Just 700 Speak This Language | NY Times

Mustang, the Hidden Kingdom | YouTube

Upper Mustang – Kamzang Journeys Trek | Colin + Pauline’s Blog

Ammonites | National Geographic

The Familliar Strange (Saligrams) | Dr Holly Walters Blog

Documentary Movies on Mustang
Sky Caves of Nepal | National Geographic Documentaries (Previews)
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic | Leisl Clark (Director)
YouTube Download
YouTube Preview

Mustang: Hidden World Beyond the Himalaya | Ghang-Tuk Tsokpa Film (Available in Kathmandu)

The Last Yak Herder of Dhe | Fidel Devkota
Part 1
Part 2

Talking to the Air | Rare Equine Trust

‘Mustang is a center of the sky, the middle of the earth, the head of all rivers where horses grow swift.’
– Sienna Craig, ‘Horses Like Lightning’

Upper Mustang
Formerly the Kingdom of Lo and a part of the Western Tibetan Kingdom of Ngari, ‘forbidden’ Mustang has lured intrepid travelers to its remote realm for centuries, but only the most adventurous made it to this mountainous and inaccessible bastion of Tibetan Buddhism and its mythical walled city of Lo Manthang.

People have inhabited this harsh region for thousands of years, some of the early dwellers living or meditating in ancient caves, rich in Buddhist art, which pepper the bizarre rock formations. Mustang became part of the Yarlung Dynasty of central Tibet, later falling under the jurisdiction of the Malla Kingdom of Nepal (Jumla) and in the fifteenth century, the independent Kingdom of Lo was founded, ruling such other remote regions as Dolpo. It was only incorporated into the Kingdom of Nepal in 1951. Soon afterwards, renegade Khampa freedom fighters battling the Chinese used Mustang as a base of operations, and it was closed to all Westerners until 1992.

This mythical land north of the 8000-meter peaks Annapurna and Dhaulagiri still requires a special restricted area permit to enter, and numbers are limited, thus helping to preserve its unique heritage. There are 9 sacred kabums, or cave monasteries, in Mustang, and an estimated 10,000 caves. Ka = ‘teaching of Buddha’ & bum = ‘rimpoche’.

A Brief History Of Mustang
+ 7th century: Mustang was part of the Tibetan empire, and the mystic Milarepa spent a summer here in 651.

+ 11th century: Upper Mustang had followed the Bon religion, based on a cult of royal tombs and sacrifices. Upper Mustang was visited by masters from southwest Tibet. Lo was ruled by kings of western Tibet, and Buddhism was reestablished.

+ 13th -14th century: In the 13th century a Kashmiri scholar from Tibet, Sherap Rinchin, visited Mustang and translated 5 texts of the Tengyur. During the 13th & 14th centuries, Mustang was ruled by kings of Guntang in Tibet and protected by the fort in Muktinath. They had close ties with the Sakya sect of Buddhism in Tibet, which had the patronage of the Yuan dynasty in China. The fortresses may have been built to protect Mustang against the rulers of Jumla.

+ 14th century: There had been a practice of cremating 1/2 dozen men alive whenever a man died until the 14th century, which was put to an end along with the slaughter of animals. The Tibetan governor of Guntang’s son, Chokyongbum, reconquered the western Tibet region of Purang (1380s) and gained governorship of Purang Fort (Barang?), presiding over Lo & Dolpo.

+ 14th – 15th century: Chokyongbum’s son Ampel extended Lo’s rule to include Purang and western Tibet. Lo gained independence from Guntang and gained an important fortress at Khochoe Dzong, just above Lo Manthang.

+ 15th – early 17th century: Mustang went to war with Tibet in the 15th century. Mustang was called the Kingdom of Lo, and then dominated the salt trade along the Kali Gandaki River and throughout the Tibetan region . It was a wealthy and powerful region.

+ 17th century: Mustang was forced to pay levies (taxes) to the Kingdom of Jumla and came under their extended Kingdom.

+ 1795: Jumla was defeated by the Gorkhas and the Kingdom of Lo (Mustang) transferred its allegiances to Gorkha, which by then was the capital of a unified Nepal.

+ 1855: Lo supported Nepal against the Tibetans. The King of Nepal thus allowed the King of Mustang to keep his title of ‘Raja of Mustang’ although he had little political power.

+ Sadly the previous King of Mustang, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, passed away in Dec 2016. His son, Jigme-La, is the current King of Mustang. 

History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital. Legend has it that the palace in Lo Manthang was constructed after Ame Pal send a goddess to find an auspicious spot, and she landed at the site of the present palace. The summer palace at Tinggar was built later, and was used mostly by the earlier kings during the summer months. Later kings spent their summers in Lo Manthang and their winters in Kathmandu. Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gonpas (monasteries) and murals in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings. 

The Raja’s palace, home to the former King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (from an aristocratic Lhasa family, now living at Royal Mustang Resort), is the largest building inside the city walls. Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (abbot) were allowed to ride. All others had to walk through the gate to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. Former King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, was the last king to reside at the four-storied palace inside the city walls, in disrepair but presently being rebuilt. The king was an avid horseman and kept his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, Lo Gyalpo, the king of Mustang, plays a somewhat ceremonial role although they have always been well-loved and respected throughout Mustang. Jigme-La, the present king of Mustang, is the 27^th descendent of Ame Pal.

Within the walls of Lo Manthang is an interesting maze of village lanes to explore, cafes, hotels, shops, stupas and mani walls. The inhabitants of Lo Manthang are called Lo-pas (Lobas). There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry. There are even yeti (known in Mustangi as mehti) prints rumored to be found in the region.

Buddhist Monasteries of Lo Monthang
There are four major monasteries within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang. The 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang, constructed in 1387, is the oldest gonpa, with a striking 50-foot ‘Jampa’ (future) Buddha statue, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago. The 15^th c Thubchen Gompa boasts a Great Assembly Hall with pillars 30 feet high, and is the second oldest gonpa in Lo Manthang, with fantastic murals in the dukhang (assembly hall). The Chhoede Gonpa complex, where the present abbot (Kempo) resides, includes a large monastic school, a museum, and the older Choprang Gompa. 

Birdlife
Hill and rock pigeons, crag martins, rose finches, pied wagtails, rock buntings, black redstarts, impeyan pheasants, grandala, snowcock and white-capped river chats, Himalayan griffin, lammergeiers, golden eagles (and many more).

Wildlife
Snow leopards, black bear, marmot, lynx, black wolf (chango), Himalayan wooly hare, blue sheep, red fox, pikas (and more).

Sky Caves (Burial Caves)
There are three distinct cultural phases of the Annapurna Conservation Area: Chokhopani (3150–2400 years ago), Mebrak (2400–1850 years ago), and Samdzong (1750–1250 years ago). The ‘sky caves’ found in Upper Mustang relate to one of these three periods.

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“The cold and dry conditions of the Himalayan sites have resulted in extraordinary ancient DNA preservation. In some cases, more than 50 percent of the DNA recovered from prehistoric skeletal remains is endogenous, or of local origin. In the Upper Mustang region of Nepal, thousands of rock-cut tombs are scattered across towering Himalayan cliff faces. It’s only in the last few decades that archaeologists—led by expert climbers—have been able to explore these remote “sky caves.” They’ve discovered a wealth of artifacts, including intact silk fabric, bronze jewelry, and bamboo baskets still full of rice among skeletons of people laid to rest hundreds of years ago.

Scientists recently sequenced the whole genomes of eight individuals found in these ancient chambers, revealing the secrets of the first inhabitants of the Himalayas. It turns out their descendants still live in the region. The researchers published their findings yesterday in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. “The big question we had was, ‘Who were these people?’ We didn’t really have any idea where they came from,” Christina Warinner, a senior author of the new study and an anthropologist at the University of Oklahoma, told Mental Floss.

Thousands of human-made caves dot the Himalayan landscape. Since prehistory, these caves have been used as tombs, dwellings, and apartments. Image credit: Christina Warinner Though strategically located between the Indian subcontinent and the Tibetan plateau, the Himalayan high mountain valleys were among the last places on Earth to be colonized by humans—and it’s easy to see why. Little rain, meager vegetation, and low levels of oxygen make it difficult to live there. The first known settlers only arrived a little more than 3000 years ago. But where those first intrepid people arrived from has been a matter of debate.

Some archaeological similarities had suggested that the first Himalayan settlers came from the south. But by looking at the ancient DNA, Warinner and her colleagues found that the first inhabitants of the Himalayas came down from the north, from East Asian populations of the Tibetan plateau. Their genetic profile most closely resembles modern-day Sherpa and Tibetan populations.

“Each one of these cultures is associated with significant changes in artifacts as well as changes in mortuary practices, which archaeologists typically see as a reflection of religious beliefs. The earliest Chokhopani tombs date back to about 3150 years ago and contain artifacts like jewelry made from faience, bronze, and copper, as well as ceramic, wooden, and stone objects among the dead, who were buried in groups. The Mebrak tombs of the next cultural phase often contained a more elaborate set of grave goods, including the mummified heads of sheep and goats, and disarticulated horse remains. The dead were also placed on decorated wooden platforms.

A gruesome new death ritual—defleshing—was introduced during the Samdzong culture (1750–1250 years ago), according to recent excavations led by Mark Aldenderfer, of the University of California, Merced (who is also an author on the new study). Cut marks on the bones suggest that the bodies were stripped of their flesh before being laid out on wooden platforms—a practice that may have been adopted from Zoroastrians of West Asia and that may have in turn influenced the Tibetan “sky burials” of later periods. Perhaps this influence was made possible by the Samdzongs’ connection to the Silk Road, which the archaeologists recently discovered thanks to well-preserved cloth artifacts.

“If it was the same population through all these cultural phases, that’s pretty amazing, because other places around the world that experience that much cultural change are typically associated with a turnover in population or a conquest event,” Warinner said.
Local villagers assist with the identification of 1500-year-old artifacts recovered from prehistoric cliff tombs at the site of Samdzong, Nepal.

The study also marks the first five whole genomes to be published for ancient people from East Asia (excluding Siberia). “There’s been very little work done on whole ancient genomes anywhere outside of Europe,” Warinner said. That’s because the first labs to do this type of analysis were in Europe, where there also is a wealth of well-preserved ancient European human remains. Warinner is hopeful that with improvements in the study of ancient DNA, scientists can start to study samples from overlooked places, like archaeological sites closer to the equator, where preservation of human remains isn’t as stellar. “The field of ancient DNA has matured dramatically in the last five years,” Warinner said. “We’ve entered the golden age of paleogenomics, where we can actually do full genomic studies of ancient people.”
 – Ancient DNA Sequenced from “Sky Cave” Burials in Nepal, mentalfloss.com

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“Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo in northern Nepal, is home to one of the world’s great archaeological mysteries. In this dusty, wind-savaged place, hidden within the Himalayas and cleaved by the Kali Gandaki River, are approximately 10,000 human-built caves. In the mid-1990s, archaeologists from Nepal and the University of Cologne began exploring the stacked caves and found several dozen bodies, all at least 2,000 years old. Since then, groups have continued to investigate the remote Upper Mustang site, but no-one has discovered who built the caves.”

“From Tombs to Homes. Scientists divide cave use in Upper Mustang into three periods. As early as 1000 BC, the caves were used as burial chambers. During the 10th Century, the region is thought to have been frequently battled over, and consequently, placing safety over convenience, families moved into the caves, turning them into living quarters. By the 1400s, the caves functioned as meditation chambers, military lookouts or storage units as people moved into villages.”

“In 2010, a team of mountaineers and archaeologists uncovered 27 human remains in Samdzong’s two biggest caves. The relatively intact skeletons – dating from the 3rd to the 8th Centuries, before Buddhism came to Mustang – had cut marks on the bones. Scientists believe that this burial ritual may have been related to the Buddhist practice of sky burial: to this day, when a citizen of Mustang dies, the body is sliced into small pieces, bones included, to be swiftly snatched up by vultures.”
– The Ancient Mysteries of Mustang’s Caves, BBC

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“In the 1990s, a high Himalayan cave in Upper Mustang, Nepal was discovered to contain 42 ancient people, buried on wooden bunk beds. American archaeologist Dr. Mark Aldenderfer believes there must be more burial caves … (His) theory is the funerary caves were carved out by the earliest people to have settled in the Himalaya. If he can find their remains and extract their DNA, he’ll learn who these people were and what brought them to the toughest parts of the planet to live.

A series of burial caves are discovered above the riverbed, with human remains spilling forth from dangerously eroding caves … (They) recover bones from a total of 27 individuals: adult men, women, adolescents, even infants, along with their goats, cows and a horse. Wood inside the caves provides the clue that bunk beds must have housed the bones at one time.

Upon cleaning and taking painstakingly detailed observations of each bone, Eng discovers that 63 percent of the bones have cut marks on them, clear evidence of defleshing! Aldenderfer’s quest takes an unexpected turn toward the macabre as he begins to trace the mortuary practices of Himalayan peoples, including the distinct sky burial rituals of the people of Upper Mustang today, where they cut up the flesh and bones of their dead and offer them to birds of prey. Could this modern practice, which dates back to the eighth century, be somehow related to the early peoples found with cut marks in Mustang’s caves? Aldenderfer thinks so. Carbon dating reveals the cave people were from the 5th century. Their practice of defleshing bones was likely a precursor funerary ritual that eventually led to the development of what is known as sky burial by ethnically Tibetan peoples today.

Another cave tomb discovery, however, reveals to Aldenderfer that Mustang was home to a mosaic of cultures, all practicing different means of disposing of their dead. This cave has no bunk beds and there’s no evidence of cut marks on the skeletal remains. (He) discloses that the dead were put into pits with multiple layers of sticks and stones. By analyzing the ceramics inside the burial cave, Aldenderfer concludes that the people interred inside date to approximately 1000 BC. This culture, likely different from the defleshed peoples found a little further north, was one among many, Aldenderfer believes, that traveled along Upper Mustang’s Kali Gandaki River Valley trade route. Aldenderfer’s cave people and their differing mortuary practices prove that the Kali Gandaki was a major trade artery connecting migrating people, their goods and their evolving funeral rituals with the well-traveled and highly influential Silk Road, further to the north.”?
– Excerpts from National Geographic Special: Cave People of the Himalaya, produced by National Geographic Television & Liesl Clark, Sky Door Films

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“Till now, the most interesting archaeological finds in Upper Mustang were sky caves containing human remains 1,500 years old, and scriptures and textiles suggesting the region’s links to the ancient Silk Road. But recently, Fidel Devkota, an anthropologist has discovered 90 rock paintings made of red and yellow ochre that he says could rewrite the history of the people of this part of Nepal that juts into the Tibetan Plateau. The paintings of wild yaks, horses and other animals, with depictions of the crescent moon and human figures, were found on rock faces in the Kya and Ludak Valleys in the eastern part of Mustang.

“The paintings and inscriptions are different in style, execution, composition and placement, suggesting that they are from various historical periods,” says Devkota, who had been documenting the impact of climate change in Mustang for the past 10 years when he came across the rock art which are in such a remote location, even local herders didn’t know of them. At the Kya Valley site, the paintings were found on a cliff facing southeast towards Bhrikuti Himal, and although the Ludak rock art site is exposed it was only found three years ago.

Devkota collaborated with John Vincent Bellezza, an archaeologist and cultural historian specialising on Tibet, and the two have jointly published a paper, ‘Obscured for Centuries: The Lost Rock Art of Lo Mustang’, documenting the discovery. As carbon dating has not yet been done, Belleza compared the rock art and inscriptions, based on Devkota’s photographs, with the rock art in western Tibet, Sipti and Ladakh. He dates some of the paintings as far back as pre-7th century CE.

“The first phase of paintings is prehistoric but the later phases are clearly motivated by Buddhism and Yungdrung Bon religious practices,” writes Devkota in the paper. The rock art depicts hunting and other wild animal-human interaction, birth giving, anthropomorphic portraits, tiered shrines and other sacred symbols. Belleza writes that the rock art in Kya and Ludak focuses on the beliefs, values and activities of the painters, although pinpointing their specific traditions is difficult. It is also difficult to discern whether the artists were pastoralists or agriculturists or both.

Given that the Shar-ri region was visited by prominent masters of Tibetan Buddhism and adherents of the Bon Po, Devkota writes that more detailed examination of the rock art and other sites may lead to identification of important centres of the faiths here. He also notes that the pigments have faded and some of the relics have deteriorated, while the sites are vulnerable to rock slides and erosion, revealing an urgent need to protect the sites from rockfalls and the harsh climate of the plateau. Says Devkota: “Even if we cannot preserve it on site, we should at least have proper documentation for the future because if we lose it now, we may never fully understand what these works represent.”

Professor Purushottam Lochan Shrestha was on a field visit to Changu Hill overlooking Kathmandu with his students four years ago when a shopkeeper mentioned paintings in the nearby Kalika Gufa. Curious, Shrestha found the cave and came upon hitherto unknown art works from the Malla era. There were paintings of a helmeted soldier, another of Hanuman carrying a mountain and two others of King Pratap Malla kneeling.

To the south of Bhaktapur in Tathali, Shrestha later discovered rock edicts from the Malla period carved into three huge rock faces. The 15 inscriptions dating back 700 years mention that the rocks from here were used to build the Vatsala Temple in Bhaktapur, which came down in the 2015 earthquake. There are also paintings of elephants and horses. Since the findings, Shrestha has been on a one-man search, without any government help, for other cave and rock inscriptions that could throw more light into the early history of Kathmandu Valley.

“Rock paintings and inscriptions provide a rare window to our history: we need more research,” says Shrestha, who has documented the findings in a recent book, Guha, Guhalekh, Guhachitra ewam anya Sampada. “There are rock quarries with ancient paintings that are in danger of being lost forever.”

http://nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/prehistoric-rock-painting-in-mustang,4086
– Nepali Times Dec 2017