The Great Indian Himalaya Bicycle (MTB) Journey
Wild Mountain Biking in Ladakh, Dha Hanu, Suru Valley, Zanskar & the Nomadic Salt Lake Regions!
One of the Indian Himalaya’s most spectacular and diverse mountain bicycle trips, we cycle the once trekking routes from Ladakh and Zanskar to Lahaul on newly constructed roads, continue all the way to the nomadic salt lakes of Rupshu in Ladakh, and cross high Himalayan passes en route!
Starting our bicycle journey in Leh, we cycle on rough roads into beautiful Sham Valley, camping near historic monasteries and lively Ladakhi villages. A highlight is few days of cycling into the ‘Brokpa’ region of Dha Hanu, a beautiful region of walnut, cherry and apricot trees, grape vines and granite boulders which follows the Indus River.The Dha Hanu valleys are crowded with willow-lined villages, and the road varies from high above the Indus to right along the river; as the altitude is lower, the climate is balmy. Cycling through the scenic, Muslim Suru Valley, we pass by the Nun and Kun peaks and glaciers, camp at remote Rangdum Gompa and cross the Pensi La pass to reach fabled Zanskar, where we’ve scheduled several days for exploring this sublimely beautiful region of Buddhist monasteries and traditional villages by bicycle. We finish with an epic crossing of the Shingo La pass, a glaciated pas leading to Himachal Pradesh, and an ancient salt trade and silk route trail …
The scenery throughout the cycling trip is breathtakingly beautiful, the campsites idyllic, the roads mostly smaller country roads perfect for biking (with a few of the scenic sections along the Leh Manali highway). We’ll see few tourists as we explore some of the Indian Himalaya’s most interesting regions, and we have plenty of time for chai in small villages, shopping at local fruit and vegetable markets and cold beers in the evenings at camp!
Summers in the Indian Himalaya are wonderful. Campsites are green and breathtakingly beautiful, cycling days are long and sunny, traditional villages are bustling with activity, glacial rivers sparkle and Himalayan panoramas from the passes are spectacular. The nomadic settlements we encounter along the way are timeless, vignettes Ladakh and Zanskar from centuries past. There is always plenty of extra time built in for exploration on our cycling trips, a photographer’s dream!
Customize Your Journey
Customize your journey to include our fabulous jeep safaris: visit Pangong, Tsomorori and Tso Kar Lakes, the nomadic salt lakes of the ancient Silk Route and their wetland preserves for some bird and wildlife spotting. Explore Central Asian Nubra, visit the historic Indus monasteries and palaces, relax on a houseboat on Dal Lake in Srinagar, and enjoy some pampering at some of Ladakh & Zanskar’s eco-resorts!
Incredible India …
Trip
The Great Indian Himalaya Bicycle (MTB) Journey | Wild Mountain Biking in Ladakh, Dha Hanu, Suru Valley, Zanskar & the Nomadic Salt Lake Regions! – Indian Himalaya Mountain Biking
Day 1 – Meet in Leh
Day 2 – Leh | Sightseeing Options
Day 3 – Leh | Optional Historic Cycle Tour (Shanti Stupa, Gompa Village, Gompa Monastery & Leh Fort)
+ Optional Extra Day Leh – Historic Cycle Tour Indus Valley Eastern Monasteries (Spikuk, Stakna, Thiksey & Shey) or Cycle Tour Stok Palace & Stok Valley
Day 4 – Bike Basgo & Likir Gompa Camp
Day 5 – Bike Hemis Shupachan Camp or Ang Camp | Sham Valley | Cross Lalung La 3560m, Tsarmangchan (Yangthang) La 3730m & Hemis Shukpachan La 3905m
Day 6 – Bike Achina Yokma Camp | Dha Hanu Valley
Day 7 – Bike Dha & Aryan Camp | Dha Hanu Valley
Day 8 – Bike Mulbek Camp | Cycle over Namika La (3780m)
Day 9 – Bike Kargil, Sankoo & Damsana Camp | Suru Valley
Day 10 – Bike Nun Kun Base Camp | Suru Valley
Day 11 – Bike Rangdum Gompa & Tashi Tongdze | Suru Valley
Day 12 – Bike Baltipulu Camp | Cross Pensi La 4495m
Day 13 – Bike Sani Lake Camp
Day 14 – Bike Karsha, Padum & Zangla River Camp
Day 15 – Bike Stongde, Padum & Reru
Day 16 – Bike Cha & Purne
Day 17 – Purne | Bike & Hike Phuktal Gompa
Day 18 – Bike Kargiak
Day 19 – Bike Shingo La High Camp
Day 20 – Bike Zanskar Sumdo | Cross Shingo La 5000m
Day 21 – Bike Darcha
Day 22 – Drive Thukje (Tso Kar Nomadic Salt Lake)
Day 23 – Bike Rumtse Camp | Cross Tanglang La 5335m
Day 24 – Bike Shakti
Day 25 – Shakti | Drive Up & Cycle Down Wari La 5315m
Day 26 – Bike Leh | via Hemis – Stok Road
Day 27 – Leh
Day 28 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
India Travel Notes
Our Ladakh and Zanskar bicycle trips start and finish in Leh, from where there are daily flights to and from Delhi. If you have successive international flights that are not all part of the same ticket or following domestic flights we suggest planning more cautiously and leaving an extra day in Leh after the trip.
We’re happy to help arrange excursions to Nubra, the nomadic Salt Lake region, Kashmir and Srinagar, or sightseeing in the Indus Valley if you have extra time!
Travel Advice
+ Travel medical insurance is required for the trek.
+ We recommend purchasing trip cancellation and travel insurance!
Lonely Planet Tibet | Cycling in Tibet
“Many of Nepal’s established trekking companies also run bike tours, notably the foreign-run Kamzang Journeys.”
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The Great Indian Himalayan Bicycle (MTB) Journey | Mountain Biking in Ladakh, Dha Hanu, Suru Valley & Zanskar to Lahaul!
Day 1 – Meet in Leh 3500m
Welcome to Leh, the capital of predominantly Buddhist Ladakh in Jammu and Kashmir, tucked away amidst mountainous Ladakh, part of the great Trans Himalayan range. If arriving by air, you will feel the jump in altitude and it will take your body a few days to adjust. If arriving by road from Manali or Srinagar, you will have had some extra acclimatization en route but still need time to adjust to the 3500 meter altitude. Hydrate with plenty of water, stay away from alcohol for a few days, rest and don’t over-exert yourself! Even walking up the stairs of the guesthouse, or the steep steps leading to Leh Fort, will make you breathless for the first few days. We recommend starting the day before you fly up to Leh, and consider taking Diamox before you fly to Leh.
We stay at the family run Shaynam Hotel, a lovely guest house with a beautiful garden courtyard, located just below the Main Bazaar in Leh, with options to stay at Padma just above Shyanma, or Omasila in Changspa north of Leh. Kim will take you on a short tour of old Leh once you’ve settled into your room. Central Asian Leh is packed with Muslim bakeries, modern cafes, Western and tandoori restaurants, old, winding alleyways, antique and pashmina shops, Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, picturesque mosques, Hindu and Sikh temples and wonderful, atmospheric fruit and vegetable markets along the Main Bazaar.
Start putting your bike together if you’ve brought it with you, or Kim will take you into Leh to get fitted for your rental bicycle. We will meet for dinner in the evening at the Ibex and Chopsticks are a few of our favorite restaurants in the Leh bazaar … (B)
Days 2 & 3 – Leh | Walking, Cycling, Rafting & Sightseeing Tour Options
We have two more full days in Leh to acclimatize, do some cycling, hiking, exploring, rafting, touring and/or sightseeing and enjoy the peaceful, willow-lined streets and bustling bazaar life of Singge Namgyal’s 17th century capital of Ladakh. Leh was once an integral part of Western Tibet and a major trading post along the southern Silk Route. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town; the newly-restored ruins of the 17th century Leh Palace, the ancient 15th century Leh Fort and the attached Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, other historic Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the Sunni and Shi’ite Muslim mosques, narrow back alleys with steaming Muslim bread, tiny antique shops tucked away amidst the many ancient stupas and architectural remnants, the exotic Main Bazaar (c. 1840s) which once accommodated trade caravans, and even a polo field. Today, the Main Bazaar is a colorful street, the sidewalks crammed mornings and afternoons with Ladakhi women selling their fresh fruits and vegetables, and locals at the far end vending their dried nuts, apricots, apples and a colorful variety of vegetables.
Caravans of merchants from far flung destinations such as Yarkand, Tibet, Kashgar and North India passed through Leh during ancient trade missions, trading salt, wool, Pashmina, tea and semi-precious stones, lending to the city its exotic allure. Pilgrims flocked to the monasteries of Leh and the Indus valley, explorers of old stopped in Leh to re-stock and weather out the harsh Himalayan winter and soldiers en route to plunder and conquer desirous destinations passed through Leh, all leaving their mark on this unique capital.
Kim will take you for a walk (or cycle) up bustling Fort Road, lined with shops owned by Kashmiri, Tibetan and Kashmiri shop-keepers, to the crumbling but majestic Leh Fort (3680m) and the red, Maitreiya Tsemo Gompa, perched high on a craggy and crumbling hilltop overlooking the bazaars of old Leh. You can stop at 16th century nine-story Leh Palace, of a similar architectural design to the Tibetan Potala Palace, on the way down if you have the energy. Visit the museum, a worthwhile endeavor, as well as the nearby gompas (Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) – Soma Gompa, Chamba Lakhang and Chensrig Lakhang. Sankar Gompa (17th – 18th c), reached through shady lanes to the east of Changspa, lies in the midst of Chubi’s groves of poplar and willow and is another wonderful morning or afternoon walk. The back route to Leh Fort starts in Chubi and passes through a desert-like Buddhist cremation ground before climbing to the fortress.
Wander (or cycle) along the willow-lines streets of Changspa to reach the many steps leading to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for a view over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. The precariously perched Leh Fort guards the eastern edges of the fertile valley. Sankar Gompa (17th – 18th century), reached through shady lanes to the east of Changspa, lies in the midst of Chubi’s groves of poplar and willow and is another wonderful morning or afternoon walk. The back route to Leh Fort starts in Chubi and passes through a desert-like Buddhist cremation ground before climbing to the fortress. (B)
Leh Historic Cycle Tour | Shanti Stupa, Gonpa Village, Gonpa Monastery & Leh Fort (25 km)
Our favorite short Leh cycle tour starts at Shaynam Hotel, cycling along willow-lined lanes up to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for views over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. We continue with a bit of off-road cycling to traditional Gompa village and its monastery at the top of the village, dropping and ascending to cycle along the spectacular, high road to Leh Fort, a precariously perched 15th– 16th century fortress and monastery complex above Leh Palace which guarded the eastern edges of the fertile valley. Last a long descent back to Leh via the old city and the Muslim sections of Leh, an incredibly scenic bike trip. (20 – 25km, depending on route)
Indus Valley Eastern Monasteries Cycle Tour | Spikuk, Stakna, Thiksey & Shey (45-65km)
A beautiful Ladakhi cycling day heading out on a bike tour of the eastern Indus Valley monasteries, beginning with 7.5 km out of Leh straight down to Spituk Gompa. We will stop for a visit of this 1000 year old Gelugpa (once Nyingmapa) Tibetan Buddhist monastery, named the ‘exemplary monastery’ by the Great Translator Lotsewa Rinchen Zangpo and presently housing about 1000 monks. Back on the bikes, we cycling past a row of mani stones and chortens along a small willow and popular lined road through the small hamlet of Spituk and cross a small bridge spanning the Indus River. Taking a lovely, rural road with few vehicles, we cycle along the south of the Indus for about 10 km, reaching the equally small intersecting road coming from Tibetan Choglamsar.
We continue to cycle along this small country road, biking past traditional Buddhist villages, Islamic mosques, whitewashed chortens and fields of barley and peas. About 15 km into the ride the impressive sight of Stakna Gompa looms to our left, and we cycle towards the Indus, climbing for a kilometer to reach this impressively set monastery, founded in the 16th century by a Bhutanese lama, and every year Stakna hosta a monastic festival that still draws a large contingent of monks from Bhutan!
Cruising back down the hill, we cross the Indus again and cycle another 6 km to Thikey Gompa, a bustling monastic institute and a 12-story Gelugpa complex with a renown Maitreya Buddha in the main assembly hall, an ancient library and incredible murals, artifacts and statues. The monastery was built in the 15th century following instructions of Je Tsongkhapa, and has one of the largest monastic schools in Ladakh.
From Thiksey (or Shey) we have options to cycle the last 15 kilometers uphill back to the Shaynam Hotel, or to throw the bikes onto the jeep and drive back with Ang Chuk. From Thiksey to Shey, we cycle west on a flat road along the main highway, paved but with few cars, for 5 km to reach ancient Shey Gompa, one of Ladakh’s old capitals, now in ruins except for the monastery. Cycling further west on the same road, we soon reach the back intersection to Leh, avoiding busy Choglamsar, and climb for about 10 km to the very busy main road. The last 3 or so km are on the main road, crossing through an equally busy intersection at the petrol pump, with the last steep 1 km on our small Old Leh Rd to Shaynam. A big cycling day for our third day at altitude in the Indian Himalaya!
NOTE | Because of the altitude of Leh (3500m) you may opt to ONLY do some jeep sightseeing through the Indus Valley, or to wander through Leh’s endlessly fascinating old town or relax and make sure your bike is tuned up. We will discuss options in Leh!
Spitok Gonpa & Stok Palace Cycle Tour (35+km)
Another great option for cycling tours out of Leh begins with the 7 km downhill to Spitok Gompa, followed by a bucolic cycle across the other side of the Indus, and finally a steep 7 km cycle up to Stok Palace and leafy Stok village. The Ladakah royal family still resides part of the year in this palace, which houses a wonderful prayer room and a very interesting museum, worth a visit (and perhaps an overnight stay). The road continues 2 or 3 km past the palace, ending where the trek to Stok La begins at the top of the valley. Cruise back down the 9-10 km paved road, cross the Indus at Choglamsar, and cycle up the back road to reach Shaynam Hotel.
Drive Up & Cycle Down Kardung La (5340m) (39km)
One of the Himalaya’s great downhill rides, put your bicycle on a jeep up to the Kardung La along the Ladakh Range, the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra Valleys, and part way to the infamous Siachen Glacier. This epic road was built in 1976, and openned to public vehicles in 1988. Cycle down this switchbacking road, stopping on the way down to slowly cycle through some of Leh’s leafy northern suburbs. From Wikipedia “Khardong La is historically important as it lies on the major caravan route from Leh to Kashgar in Central Asia. About 10,000 horses and camels used to take the route annually, and a small population of Bactrian camels can still be seen at Hunder, in the area north of the pass. During World War II there was an attempt to transfer war material to China through this route.” Note that although all signs proclaim the Kardung La to be 5602 meters (or somewhere in this vicinity), it’s actually nearly 300 meters lower, so actually not at all the highest motorable pass in the world! Times of India Article | Kardung La
CYCLE NOTE | See our Ladakh cycle trip pages for more ideas of cycling trips around Leh and the Indus valley.
Touring Options Leh | Indus Valley Sightseeing Trips
Endless options for wonderful ‘jeep safaris’ through the fertile Indus Valley to visit a few of the living Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the ‘cradle of civilization’ of much of the ancient world. Kim can help arrange a jeep and driver for a day or overnight trip to some of Leh and the historic Indus valley’s most scenic and culturally interesting spots.
Indus Valley Monastery & Fortress Tours
EAST | Shey, Thikse, Hemis, Chemde (Chemre), Thagthok (Sakti), Stakna + Matho Gompas. Stok Palace has wonderful heritage rooms and chalets for overnight stays, and Sakti has charming homestays.
WEST | Spitok, Phyang, Basgo, Likir, Alchi, Rizdong + Lamayuru Gompas. Alchi is a wonderful village to spend the night, and Lamayuru has hotels near this picturesque gompa.
Indus or Zanskar White Water Rafting
Exciting white-water rafting trips on the Indus (less challenging) or Zanskar Rivers, $40 – $45.
Day 4 – Bike Basgo Fort & Likir Monastery Camp 3520m
Distance: 56.58km Elevation Gain: 1,110m Elevation Loss: 841m
Our private jeep and back up truck await for the start of our great bicycle trip through Ladakh, Zanskar and Kashmir. Leaving Leh, we cycle downhill for 8 km past the turnoff to Spikok Gompa and then another 20+ kilometers along the Leh-Srinagar highway, past the Phyang valley which leads to Nurbra, past the ‘Zero Gravity Point’ to the green-brown confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers. We’ll continue to along this leafy road, past ancient chortens and mani walls, to Nimu where we’ll stop for chai and their famous samosas. Ascending gradually on the bikes, we reach historic Basgo Fort and monastery half way up the switchbacks, and turn right along a small, rural road for a few kilometers to reach the monastery complex. After lunch, we continue to ascend for several kilometers until we reach the turnoff to Likir Gompa. From here we cycle just over 1 kilometers up a small road to our campsite in this scenic valley. Although relatively isolated and sleepy today, Likir was once part of a major Central Asial trade route between Tingmosgang and Hemis to Leh.
At camp we’ll introduce you to our Kamzang style trekking system, get you set up in your own 2 or 3-person tent and start the afternoon with a cup of steaming, spicy chai. Afterwards we’ll stroll to Likir Gompa to see the golden Maitreya Buddha, and perhaps catch an afternoon puja, or prayer ceremony, with Buddhist monks chanting, cymbals chiming and drums beating. Likir is a Gelugpa monastery with a monastic school and community of 120 monks, and approximately 30 students. The monastery was established in the 11th century by Lama Duwang Chosje, commissioned by Lhachen Gyalpo, Ladakh’s fifth king. Likir Gompa is the seat of the Ngari Rinpoche, whos present emanation is HH the Dalai Lama’s younger brother. He visits occasionally for pujas and ceremonies, but doesn’t reside at the gompa. The Central Institute of Buddhist Studies runs the monastery, teaching Buddhist courses in three languages: Hindi, Sanskrit and English.
From Wikipedia: “The name Likir means ‘The Naga – Encircled’, representing the bodies of the two great serpent spirits, the Naga-rajas, Nanda and Taksako. It originally belonged to the early Kadampa order of Tibetan Buddhism.
When Francke visited the monastery in 1909 he was shown a long inscription written in black ink on a wall which outlined the history of the monastery. Francke had it copied and interprets it as follows: “King Lha-chen-rgyal-po founded the monastery in the 11th century. In the 15th century, Lama Lha-dbang-chos-rje (a famous pupil of Tsongkhapa) converted the lamas to the reformed doctrines of the Ge-lug-pa order, and thus founded the monastery afresh as a Ge-lug-pa establishment. Then it is stated that seven generations after Lha-chen-rgyal-po, King Lha-chen-dngos-grub (1290-1320) arose, and that he introduced the custom of sending all the novices to Lhasa. This statement is found in exactly the same words as we find in the rGyal-rabs.”
Eighteen generations later King bDe-legs-rnam-rgyal reigned, but his name has been erased from the inscription because he was forced to embrace Islam after the battle of Basgo in 1646-1647. The inscription itself is dated to the reign of King Tsewang Namgyal II (1760-1780), who repaired the monastery after a conflagration.
Below the monastery was a large chorten with frescoes inside representing Tsongkapa and other lamas of his time. “Painted above the door, a very strange figure is found which looks much like one of the ordinary representations of Srong-btsan-sgam-po (Songtsän Gampo). I was told by the lamas that it represents a lama of Srong-btsan-sgam-po’s times. The figure wears a three-pointed hat of white colour and carries two leopard skins under his arms.” The lower part of the chorten is a square room which a lama said was the earliest temple at Likir, and was already there when King Lha-chenrgyal-po built the monastery.” (B, L, D)
Day 5 – Bike Hemis Shupachan & Tingmosgang (Sham Valley) | Cross Lalung La 3560m, Tsarmangchan (Yangthang) La 3730m & Hemis Shukpachan La 3905m
Distance: 39km Elevation Gain: 823m Elevation Loss: 843m
Cycling along an incredibly scenic village road through the Sham valley, without a car in sight, we crest our first small pass, the Lalung La Likir (3560m), only about 50 meters above our campsite. We look down on green, terraced villages with whitewashed Ladakhi houses, small monasteries, and the Himalayan range as a backdrop, cycling past fragrant pink Zanskari rose bushes. We drop slightly to a small intersecting river below Saspotse to begin the climb to the next pass, the Yangthang La (3730m), really just a stopping point on route to the third pass, the Hemis Shukpachan La (3905m). Between the second and third passes we descend a bit, the road passing just below the village of Yangthang.
We’ll stop for a scenic lunch at Hemis Shukpachan, at about 3570m, before another great bike descent through a wooded gorge of over 5 km to reach Hemis Chu (3045m), where we’ll stop for a chai and pick up a few beers at the dhaba just above the intersection. This will be our last beer stop for many days as we head for Muslim regions! Leaving the lovely Sham valley, we cycle above the Indus for about 7 km to our green campsite in Nurla. (B, L, D)
Day 6 – Bike Achina Yokma (Dha Hanu Valley)
Distance: 52.32km Elevation Gain: 457m Elevation Loss: 616m
Leaving Nurla, we cycle for a few more kilometers along the Indus River (called the Singge Khababs, or the mouth of the lion, named after where it flows from sacred Mount Kailash in Tibet). We continue to head north, passing the beautiful village of Achinathang before finally reaching Hanu Trang village, one of the only non-restricted villages in the restricted Dha Hanu valley. It’s an incredibly scenic and beautiful bike ride as we pass through a world of shady villages, with traditional architecture, a timeless ride.
The Dah Hanu valley is a beautiful region of walnut, cherry and apricot trees, grape vines and marbled granite boulders, which follows the Indus River, thus a lower altitude region. The local inhabitants are Indo-European Dards, whos women favor flowers adorning their long braided hair. Although these Brokpa follow Tibetan Buddhism, their ancient religion animistic. Interestingly, some of the Dard inhabitants still practice polyandry, with a woman marrying several brothers.
We set up camp in the lovely schoolgrounds of Achina Yokma, a small Drokpa village amongst the willows and populars, a climb above the main road. Have a wander through this leafy, welcoming village in the afternoon, pick some mulburries from the trees, and enjoy the company of curious young children! (B, L, D)
Day 7 – Bike Dha & Lashting Camp (Dha Hanu Valley)
Distance: 22.46km Elevation Gain: 295m Elevation Loss: 257m
A short day, with a ride to the remote, ‘Brokpa’ village of Dha where the inhabitants speak a language they call ‘Aryan’ (related to ?) and practice Buddhism. The dusty village climbs up the hillside, with an ancient mulberry tree in the lower reaches, fields of barley and wheat, and numerous fruit and nut trees.
We cycle along a lovely paved road past mani walls and chortens, often above the Indus, and soon reach Hanu Thang, the ride up to Hanu Yokma and Hanu Gongma a project for another year. Continuing to bike past the intersection to the Chitkan valley at a marked bridge, we cycle past the flooded village of Bema and then past the turnoff to our campsite. First, though, we’ll cycle about 5 more km to Dha and hike up to the village for a visit with the local Brokpas.
Turning sharply left at the sign for the Aryan Camp, we switchback steeply for about 1 km to reach our beautiful, cliff side camp amongst the poplars and apricot trees and enjoy a hot afternoon. The small road leads another 1 or 2 km up to a new monastery and school. (B, L, D)
Day 8 – Bike Mulbek 3300m | Cross Namika La 3780m
Distance: 64.38km Elevation Gain: 1,315m Elevation Loss: 1,152m
Cycling south for just over 5 km back to the junction at Sanjak, we ascend for several hundred meters following the shady river valley with a steeper switchback before reaching the more populated hamlets. Cycling along this beautiful, rural road, we’ll meet many curious Muslim villagers as we pass Chortenchan, the larger Chiktan and several other small hamlets, with a chai stop en route. Climbing very gradually, we the intersection of the highway at Kangral (3410m). From here we have 10 km along the highway, a lovely section, to reach the Namika La (3820m), a 400 meter climb.
We’ll stop for lunch just off the pass, and begin our 12 km descent to the bazaars of Wakha, continuing 2 km afterwards to idyllic Mulbek. Mulbek is known for its massive, stone Maitreya Buddha (Future Buddha) which sits inside the monastery complex, the statue approximately 1400 years old. We camp at a shady campsite about 1 km past Mulbek, spending the rest of the afternoon relaxing at this lovely, warm camp.
Day 9 – Bike Kargil, Sankoo & Damsana 3185m (Suru Valley)
Distance: 83.88km Elevation Gain: 626m Elevation Loss: 942m
Cycling northwest following the Wakha Chu, we have a 37 km downhill along the highway – although beautiful landscape, we competed with trucks for the road in 2016, when we encountered road building which made the ride slower than it would have been. There will soon be new tarmac on this stretch, so it will be a great downhill. We reach the road leading to Zanskar just before Kargil, at the Indian Oil intersection, from where we cycle for several hours (approx 58 kilometers on a quiet and beautiful country road, passing many Muslim villages, children in scarves and uniforms leaving school for lunch, and then the end of the day, listening to the call to prayer from the many mosques. The largest village we pass through is Sankoo, a bustling road side bazaar chock-a-block with fruit and vegetable stalls and small shops.
We head south, cycling through the beautiful Suru Valley, continuing as far as we can during the day, passing Saliskote and Farona, stopping to have a wander through the bazaars at Sangkoo. En route we’ll meet many school kids, mosques and have the opportunity to see life in the quiet, Muslim villages of the scenic Suru valley. Sangkoo is the largest of the villages we cycle through, worth getting off the bikes and wandering through the bustling bazaar which stretches along the road. Pick up a kg of delicious, yellow mangoes for camp if you’d like, or a cold drink in one of the shops.
About 13 km after Sangkoo, along a beautifully paved road, we finally reach our wonderful, green campsite along the river at Damsana, set under shady trees, the perfect stop to a long day of cycling. You’ll start to feel the altitude from here on, so stay hydrated and we will discuss Diamox this evening at camp.
Day 10 – Bike Nun & Kun Base Camp (Gulmatongao) 3924m (Suru Valley)
Distance: 51.44km Elevation Gain: 1,075m Elevation Loss: 281m
A rough cycle for much of the day but saved by an incredibly scenic mountain road! Leaving our wooded camp at Damsana, we cycle on a small, rural road for the first 15 or so kilometers, passing more traditional villages, a patchwork of green fields of barley, small vegetable gardens and stone enclosures for the livestock.
We pass the large village of Panikar, as we cycle through the mostly Muslim Suru Valley, always strikingly scenic, with lovely villages, people ambling along the roadways with their cows, sheep and goats. We’ll spot the 7000 meter Himalayan ‘twin peaks of Nun (7135m) and Kun (7077m) as we cycle, an impressive sight.
Day 11 – Bike Rangdum Gompa & Tashi Tongdze Camp 4030m (Suru Valley)
Distance: 30.15km Elevation Gain: 276m Elevation Loss: 62m
A half day of beautiful Himalayan cycling to put us in a good position for tomorrow’s pass, with time to visit Randgum Gompa. The road makes a sweeping S turn to the south at Tongul, heads north again and just as it begins to head east we spot the fantastic Nun and Kun glaciers, tongues of snow extending almost to the road. We reach the Buddhist hamlet of Julidok and the Gelugpa Rangdum Gompa, set in the middle of a broad, Tibetan plateau with massive black, yellow and white chortens surrounding it. We cycle another 6 km on the new-ish road or 3 km on the ‘shortcut’ road (river crossings) up to Rangdum Gompa, a 450 year old Gelugpa monastery at 4056 meters. We’ll enter the atmospheric monastery for a visit before cycling to our scenic camp in the small village just north of Rangdum, enjoying the beautiful sunset and perhaps a few visitors. (3 ½ hrs)
Day 12 – Bike Baltipulu Camp 4030m | Cross Pensi La 4495m (Suru Valley)
Distance: 46.34km Elevation Gain: 551m Elevation Loss: 549m
An incredibly beautiful day of cycling, slightly more challenging as we ascend gradually to the higher Himalayan plateaus, crossing the Pensi La (4495m), the gateway to Zanskar.
We begin the morning with 6-7 kilometers of easy cycling along the green river banks, with marmot whistling as we cycling by, rushing for their holes. We start to ascend slowly towards the pass, the switchbacks becoming longer as we near the double pass. The first pass is marked by a white-washed chorten and prayer flags, while the second ‘official pass is nearly 2 km past the first pass, approximately 22 km from our campsite.
Views from the pass are awesome, with snow-capped peaks to the right and in front of us. The descent is equally awe inspiring, quite bumpy, sometimes exposed and throughout breathtakingly beautiful. One of the Himalaya’s best rides, ever. We’ll stop for lunch a few kilometers from the pass, where we have a full view of the incredible Darung Drung Glacier with a white peak in back and broad plateaus to the south. The road is rough, rocky, a somewhat challenging mountain biking trail and a fun ride. Near the bottom of the descent we pass a single white chorten, below which sits a small turquoise lake. We cross a bridge and then cycle, often through water run-offs, on a built-up road, almost straight until it makes a large turn and a gradual ascent as we cycle through, high, green summer grazing pastures to reach our lovely, green campsite at Balitpulu, a local doksa. Views both up and down the valley are spectacular, again. (6 ½ hrs)
Nun & Kun Peaks
“Early exploration of the massif included a visit in 1898 and three visits by Arthur Neve, in 1902, 1904, and 1910. In 1903, Dutch mountaineer Dr. H. Sillem investigated the massif and discovered the high plateau between the peaks; he reached an altitude of 6,400 m (21,000 ft) on Nun. In 1906, noted explorer couple Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband William Hunter Workman, claimed an ascent of Pinnacle Peak. They also toured extensively through the massif and produced a map; however, controversy surrounded the Workmans’ claims, and few trigonometrical points were given for the region, so that the map they produced was not usable.
After unsuccessful attempts to climb the mountain in 1934, 1937, and 1946 the first ascent of Nun was in 1953 by a French-Swiss-Indian-Sherpateam led by Bernard Pierre and Pierre Vittoz, via the west ridge. The summit pair comprised Vittoz, a Moravian missionary to the Tibetans and an experienced alpinist, and Claude Kogan, a pioneering female mountaineer. Since then, other routes have been pioneered.The north-west face was first ascended on October 27. and 28., 1976 by seven climbers from a Czech expedition, led by F. Čejka. The first British ascent was made by Steve Berry and friends via the east ridge in 1981 (his father had attempted Nun in 1946).
Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza made the first ascent of Kun in 1913, via the north-east ridge. Fifty-eight years passed before the second recorded attempt on the peak, which resulted in a successful ascent by an expedition from the Indian Army.” – Wikipedia
Day 13 – Bike Sani Lake Camp 3555m
Distance: 49.61km Elevation Gain: 192m Elevation Loss: 653m
An incredibly scenic mountain morning as we cruise through green grazing pastures high above the Pensi Chu, with glacial valleys spilling out from the west, and Himalayan peaks showing their snow-capped summits. The road is still rough, but there is plenty of chance to cycle through these flat, green plateaus or on ‘off-road’ shortcuts and marmots waddling around watching our progress. Son after crossing a small bridge over a deep chasm, we round a long corner and come to the glacial valley leading to the Agsho La, a remote trail along 20+ km of glacier which leads to Himachel Pradesh. To the east are the remains of a small ‘dzong’, about which nothing is written. The villages in this region are Buddhist Zanskari villages, looking much like Tibetan traditional villages and practicing Tibetan Buddhism. The valley is often deep sided as we cycling past many intersecting river valleys, eventually reaching Agcho village, at around 3850 meters. From Agcho the Stod Chu (river) increases considerably in size, and becomes much more populated with Zanskari villages.
South of this valley we begin to see our first Zanskari villages, beginning with Agcho across a bridge over the now Stod River, and continuing in a chain of traditional hamlets. Zanskari women wearing hats adorned with Zanskari roses lead their dzobkios, their noses attached by rough ropes, to graze. School children run out onto the road during lunch breaks, and small cars, motorcycles and the occasional truck share the road. A Y-shaped intersection gives us a chance to cycle on paved road for about 3 km, cyclin by Abrang village.
We pass by Skagyam nunnery (chomo gompa), soon afterwards stopping for lunch by a whitewashed chorten over looking the alpine-looking villages. Between Phey and Mandra Ling is a trail leading northeast towards Zingchan in Zanskar, and just south of Phey a trail leads over the Omasi La to Udaipur.
The road remains rough until the bridge about 3 km below Phey where we cross a new bridge across the Stod River to Ating village and continue for 8 km on a paved road through a chain of green, scenic villages bordered by stone walls and Zanskar roses. We pass a second bridge over the Stod at Tungri which we don’t take (we can also cross at this bridge but the road remains unpaved although the villages are equally beautiful and interesting) from where we have 5 more kilometers of often paved road to Sani.
We’ll set up camp in Sani in an idyllic green site at a sacred lake, next to the new statue of Guru Rimpoche, and cycle to the monastery to take a look. Sani is a Drukpa Kargyu gompa with several resident nuns living in the monastery. The monastery is renown for its unique Kanika Chorten, presumed to date back to the time of the famous Kushan emperor, Kanishka (Kanika is the English transliteration of the emperor’s name) who lived around 127. Kanishka is well known in Buddhist literature as the promoter of Buddhism in this region, sponsoring a significant Buddhist conference in Kashmir.
“Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, is said to have dwelt for five years in the small ‘Gamshot Lhakang’ squeezed between the main building and the corridor, to the right of the Kanika chorten. Inside may be seen a figure of Guru Rinpoche and historical scenes in half relief on both sides of the statue.[6] Apparently, one can just see the white opening to a cave in a cliff across the river from the monastery where Padmasambhava is also said to have meditated for several years and it is still used as a meditation cell. The monastery is also claimed to be connected with the famous Indian Yogi Naropa (956-1041 CE). There is now small room next to the Kanika chorten where it is thought that Naropa meditated in which there is a veiled bronze statue of the yogi. A group of Kargyu nuns established a small retreat centre at “Starkhugnza” in the 1990s. It is a site above Sani which was founded by Ngawang Tsering (1657-1732), a famous Zanskar meditator. All of the nunneries in Zanskar are under the spiritual authority of the monks and few have much in the way of endowments.” – Wikipedia (6 hrs)
Day 14 – Bike Padum, Stongde Gompa & Zangla Spring Camp 3430m
Distance: 67.50km Elevation Gain: 473m Elevation Loss: 587m
Another 9 flat kilometers of cycling brings us to bustling Padum (3655m), the capital of Zanskar, where our staff has set up camp somewhere at the fringes of town. Enjoy the afternoon exploring this ancient village, half Muslim and half Buddhist, a real melting pot from the old trading days. Padum has a very Central Asian feel, and is a transit point for goods coming and going from Leh to Kargil, with colorful Kashmiri fruit markets. There are some thousand year old pre-Tibetan (Mon) Buddhist Buddha carvings just below Padum, worth a look. Pick up a plate of Padum’s famous mutton momos at Kailash Restaurant on the main strip, washed down with a (semi) cold beer …
Continuing, we cycle about 3 kilometers to Pipiting, and drop to the bridge just below Pipiting Gompa a beautiful Zanskar day of easy cycling and exploring central Zanskar’s fascinating and beautifully-set monasteries by bicycle. From Padum, we cycle past the timeless Pipiting Gompa and village to the small (pink) bridge crossing the Zanspo River. From here the views widen as we reach the Zanskar plateau with snow-capped Himalayan peaks as a backdrop to the south and a patchwork of village fields to the north. After about 15 kilometers we reach Stongde village, a large village of many Indian officers, and turn to the right to cycle up to Stongde Gompa, a 300 meter climb from the village.
Stongde Gompa (3815m), one of the oldest in Zanskar, was built in 1052 by Naropa’s disciple, the famous translator Lama Marpa, and taken over by the Gelugpa in the 15th century, with Je Tsongkhapa as its present head. Stongde is the second largest monastery in Zanskar, with approximately 60 monks and many students, renown for its Gustor Festival during the summer.
After the climb to the monastery, climb to the monastery roof for wonderful views of the patchwork of Stongde village and the Zanskar valley. It’s one of the most lively and colorful monasteries, perched precariously up on a craggy rock ledge, and surrounded by lovely birch woods. We has many friends there, including Geshe Lobsang who lectures and travels around the world, and founded the monastic school. Geshe Stenzin and his brother, are also good friends; they might invite us for tea and give us a tour of the gompa, including its room of treasures in back of the oldest ‘lhakhang’, or prayer hall. We might be able to catch the evening puja in the butter-lamp lit prayer room, a surreal experience with resonating, deep chanting, cymbals, Tibetan drums, a step back hundreds of years.
Once back on the ‘main’ road, we cycle another 16 kilometers along the wide Zanskar plain, past the scenic Chyilingskyid and Tzazar village, to a bridge and winding road leading up to the once-Kingdom of Zangla.
One really gets a sense of why this remained a hidden kingdom for so many centuries. To the right, the hilltop fortress of Zangla, and past that several watch tours along the Jumlam route. Past Zangla, the Himalayan barrier, and the Umasi La to Kashmir; the wooden beams that are the center of most Zanskari houses came from there, laboriously carried by porters. Below the Zanskar curves away into the Muslim Suru valley and the Pensi La, closed for all but three months of every year and in front, behind the villages of Pidmo and Pishu, the Zanskar range cuts off approach for all but those like us, a well-equipped caravan.
Once through the village, we have an easy off-road descent to our lovely riverside camp that we call Zangla Doksa River camp. Doksa means seasonal nomadic settlement in Ladakhi, and the locals from Honya Doksa will pass by in the evenings with their large herds of sheep, goats and donkeys, making for some classic photos of traditional life in Zanskar. The grass is green and the stream warm, so go for a wash and settle in for the evening. Sunsets and sunrises are amazing from camp, enjoy the evening! (B, L, D)
Zangla Village & Fort Tour
Climbing gradually out of our campsite, hike along the plateau past a weathered rock carved with thousand-year old Mon chortens, soon reaching Zangla Chomo Gompa (nunnery) to the northern side of the village. Follow the village road past the King of Zangla’s house, where our Kamzang Journeys group had tea one summer with the royal residents, including the Queen Mother. The King of Zangla, Gyalthes Nima Norboo Namgial Ldey, of the Sonsten Gampo lineage, is the same age as the Dalai Lama (early 80s). Songsten Gampo was the great 7th century Tibetan king who unified much of Tibet, encouraged the spread of Tibetan Buddhism and was the patron of the creation of the Tibetan script. He had two wives, one Chinese and the other Nepali. The king’s family is also of the Nyimagon lineage, a Tibetan king from the 11th century whose youngest of three sons, Ldey Tsugon, ruled Zanskar, Lahoul and Spiti. The other two sons ruled areas of western Tibet (Guge, Purang) near Mount Kailash.
We sometimes meet the king in the village, and rode into and back from Padum with him in 2015. The King’s house now has a new horse stable in frong, and the new house right next to the somewhat dilapidated royal residence is the house of the village carpenter.
The piece de resistance of Zangla, however, is its fortress, presently being restored by an organization called ‘Cosmos Room’. The ruins of the 900 year-old Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the ancient Kings of Zangla, are a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of lookout towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally ‘melted’ the dzong, and it is now quite as safe as it was previously. The famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19th century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room. The fort is guarded over by a giant, new stupa built in 2009, while more ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend back to the village and eventually to camp.
Zanskar Valley Monasteries Jeep Tour | Sani Gompa, Karsha Gompa & Pipiting Gompa
Get a group together to hire a jeep to visit the fascinating, old gompas of Zanskar from Padum (3585m). You will have time to visit the 1000 year old Sani Gompa on the Stod River, the route out to Rangdum and the Suru Valley. Sani is a Drukpa Kargyu gompa with several resident nuns living in the monastery. The monastery is renown for its unique Kanika Chorten, presumed to date back to the time of the famous Kushan emperor, Kanishka (Kanika is the English transliteration of the emperor’s name) who lived around 127 CE. Kanishka is well known in Buddhist literature as the promoter of Buddhism in this region, sponsoring a significant Buddhist conference in Kashmir.
From Wikipedia: “Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, is said to have dwelt for five years in the small ‘Gamshot Lhakang’ squeezed between the main building and the corridor, to the right of the Kanika chorten. Inside may be seen a figure of Guru Rinpoche and historical scenes in half relief on both sides of the statue. Apparently, one can just see the white opening to a cave in a cliff across the river from the monastery where Padmasambhava is also said to have meditated for several years and it is still used as a meditation cell.
The monastery is also claimed to be connected with the famous Indian Yogi Naropa (956-1041 CE). There is now small room next to the Kanika chorten where it is thought that Naropa meditated in which there is a veiled bronze statue of the yogi.
A group of Kargyu nuns established a small retreat centre at ‘Starkhugnza’ in the 1990s. It is a site above Sani which was founded by Ngawang Tsering (1657-1732), a famous Zanskar meditator. All of the nunneries in Zanskar are under the spiritual authority of the monks and few have much in the way of endowments.”
From Sani, take the back roads to the Gelugpa Karsha Gompa, the largest, most important, and possibly the most scenic monastery in Zanskar, built high up into the cliffs above the village of Karsha. The monastery is said to be founded by Guru Rimpoche, or Padmasambhava, and is under the control of the Ngari Rimpoche. A fire recently burned down the kitchen, but a new, larger kitchen was rebuilt. The inside of the main assembly hall is purely Tibetan Buddhist, with ancient murals on the walls, priceless statues and the usual Buddhist offerings.
To return, you will pass back through Padum where you can do some email or pick up supplies at the many shops. Padum is a very Central Asian feeling village, a transit point for goods coming and going from Leh to Kargil, with a large Muslim population. There are some thousand year old pre-Tibetan Buddhist Buddha carvings just below Padum, the Gyalba Rigsinga, worth a look if you’re stopping in town. And pick up a plate of momos on the main drag! En route back to Stongde, make a quick stop at Pipiting Gompa on a small hill just past Padum.
Day 15 – Bike Stongde, Padum & Reru
Distance: 51.37km Elevation Gain: 678m Elevation Loss: 316m
EDIT (B, L, D)
Day 16 – Bike Cha & Purne
Distance: 26.08km Elevation Gain: 652m Elevation Loss: 621m
EDIT …
Purne, on the main Zanskar trail, is at confluence of the Tsarap Chu and the Kargiak Chu, and there are sure to be other trekkers staying at this hub. Camp is warm, a beautiful spot to relax, so take advantage of the free time to do some laundry and have a cold beer from the local shop-teahouse, run by a some lovely sisters. Their aunt Dolma is the local amchi, also a good friend of ours from years ago. Both our campsite and lodge, and Dolma’s, have bucket showers on offer. (B, L, D)
EDIT (B, L, D)
Day 17 – Purne | Day Bike or Hike Phuktal Gompa 3900m
We have a beautiful (and somewhat restful) cycling or hiking day to the iconic Phuktal Monastery in Central Zanskar today. It’s about 5 hours hiking round trip from Purne to Phuktal, and much shorter on the bikes. The road is in the process of being rebuilt, so we will decide our mode of transport once we reach Purne.
Phuktal Gompa, which translates as ‘the cave of leisure or liberation’, is spectacularly built into a cliff-side, one of the most colorful gompas in Zanskar as well as one of the oldest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the Indian Himalaya (15th century, although information inside the monastery claims that it’s nearly 1000 years old). Phuktal Gompa has a school attached, and the young, lively monks are always keen to practice their English or to have a photo taken. The gompa itself is a real Central Asian treasure with ancient prayer rooms, an old library, a fountain with magical waters in the original cave, a Tibetan medicine center, a wonderful kitchen and many old friends. Singge, the young Zanskari boy that we sponsored for school at the Himalayan Buddhist School in Manali (and our first Kamzang Kid), stayed a few years at this Phuktal before being ‘evicted’ for bad behavior. Alexander Csoma de Kőrös also spent time translating in this monastery (see below).
About Phuktal Gompa | “The Phuktal Monastery is built around a natural cave, which is believed to have been visited by numerous sages, scholars, translators, and monks around 2250 years ago. The remote location of the monastery was ideal for monks looking for peace and solitude to meditate. The present Phuktal Gompa, of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism, was established in the early 15th century by Jangsem Sherap Zangpo, a disciple of Je Tsongkhapa. Tsongkhapa was the founder of Gelug, which is one of the newest schools of Tibetan Buddhism.
Believed to be one of the earliest residents of the cave are the 16 Arhats, or the legendary followers of Buddha. The images of these 16 Arhats appear on the cave walls. The great scholars and translators Padmasambhava and Phakspa Nestan Dusdan are believed to have lived in the cave, and so is the great leader and translator Lama Marpa Lotsawa. In the 12th century, the Tibetan translator Zanskar Lotsawa Phagpa Sherab also lived and worked from Phuktal. The eminent scholars and brothers Dangsong, Pun, and Sum, who were believed to have the supernatural power of flight gave teachings on Dharma at Phuktal. When Jangsem Sherap Zangpo arrived at Phuktal, the three brothers bequeathed the holy site to him and departed. According to legend, the spiritually gifted Zangpo caused a spring to appear and run from the cave, a tree to grow on top of the cave and for the cave itself to grow larger in size. Then, under his guidance, the present structure of the monastery was built around the cave. It is built in the cliffside, like a honeycomb. The cliff is part of a lateral gorge of a major tributary of the Lungnak River (Lingti-Tsarap River). The monastery today houses a main temple, prayer rooms, a library with rare sacred texts, apartments and living quarters, teaching facilities, a kitchen, and of course, the original cave and the sacred spring, which is protected. It is home to about 70 monks.
There is a stone tablet which serves as a reminder of the stay of Alexander Csoma de Kőrös at Phuktal, while he worked on the first English-Tibetan dictionary between 1826 and 1827, when he explored Ladakh.” – Wikipedia
After exploring the gompa and meeting the many young novice monks, we descend to the Tsarap Chu, crossing this massive river on a long, wooden bridge, from where we have almost two hours of undulating trail to camp. (After the floods of several years ago we’ve had to cross on a locally-constructed vine bridge, and that year our horses had to swim the huge, fast-flowing river, quite exciting!). It’s a beautiful hike along the left banks of Tsarap Chu on a precipitous but recently improved and undulating canyon trail, with road building in progress closer to Purne. (B, L, D)
Day 18 – Bike Kargiak
Distance: 23.12km Elevation Gain: 527m Elevation Loss: 217m
EDIT (B, L, D)
Day 19 – Bike Shingo La High Camp
Distance: 15.53km Elevation Gain: 334m Elevation Loss: -0m
EDIT
Day 20 – Bike Zanskar Sumdo | Cross Shingo La
Distance: 24.93km Elevation Gain: 586m Elevation Loss: 1,129m
EDIT (B, L, D)
Day 21 – Bike Darcha
Distance: 19.92km Elevation Gain: 110m Elevation Loss: 666m
EDIT (B, L, D)
Day 22 – Drive Thukje 4530m
Distance: 199.98 km
To not miss any of Ladakh’s epic cycling, we’ll have our driver Ang Chuk ferry us up by jeep to the salt lakes of Tso Kar, from where we’ll continue to cycle north on the Leh – Manali highway.
We reach our beautiful camp at the semi-permanent village of Thugje along the green, wet northern reaches of the lake. There is a new gompa next to the old one above our camp, a wonderful vantage point to look down on this magical world of lakes and salt. And there are several tented tea shops where you can pick up a beer or coke. Our scenic camp at Tso Kar Lake is set up along a salty, crusted and baked plateau next to more boggy grasslands. We can walk right along the shores of the lake, where bubbles and slabs of salt have been pushed up onto the white shores.
The salt lake of Tso Kar is a magnet for rare migratory birds such as the black-necked crane, bar-headed goose, long-legged wading birds and ruddy shelduck (most of which we’ve seen at Tso Moriri,and elsewhere) and herds of kiang marking their territory by racing in front of us, kicking up dust and performing incredible maneuvers. National Geographic material. Tso Kar Lake is the ‘salt lake’ of Rupshu, previously the site of large salt excavations by the Rupshu-pa nomads, a section of the lake given to each group each year when the salt trade between Tibet and the lower hills was thriving (after the border with China was closed in 1959). Today, Tso Kar Lake is not as salty as it previously was, and the salt trade has diminished in importance because if the introduction of iodized and subsidized Indian salt. Most of the people of Tso Kar lake are Tibet semi-nomadic people who spend the winters in their villages at the lake.
Day 23 – Bike Rumtse Camp 4400m | Cross Tanglang La 5332m
Distance: 68.29km Elevation Gain: 825m Elevation Loss: 1,093m
Leaving the Tso Kar salt lake region, we cycle 16 kilometers north of the lake to the Manali-Leh highway, a well paved, traffic free road linking Manali in Himachal Pradesh with Ladakh. From the parachute tents at the turnoff, we cycle for another 3 kilometers to the second set of parachute tents to the left of the road, and start the climb of 21 kilometers to the pass. We pass many nomadic doksas en route, with their flocks of hundreds of sheep and Pashmina goats, and soon start our climb of the Tanglang La pass, Ladakh’s second highest motorable pass.
From the top of this iconic pass, yet another fabulous downhill from 5300 meters, wizzing down paved switchbacks, green grazing regions and a sparkling river valley below, to lovely Rumtse. We camp in a green campsite just outside of the town, and enjoy a balmy sunset over a few cold Kingfishers!
Original Route
Day 15 – Bike Rumtse Camp 4400m | Cross Tanglang La 5332m
Distance: 68.29km Elevation Gain: 825m Elevation Loss: 1,093m
Leaving the Tso Kar salt lake region, we cycle 16 kilometers north of the lake to the Manali-Leh highway, a well paved, traffic free road linking Manali in Himachal Pradesh with Ladakh. From the parachute tents at the turnoff, we cycle for another 3 kilometers to the second set of parachute tents to the left of the road, and start the climb of 21 kilometers to the pass. We pass many nomadic doksas en route, with their flocks of hundreds of sheep and Pashmina goats, and soon start our climb of the Tanglang La pass, Ladakh’s second highest motorable pass.
From the top of this iconic pass, yet another fabulous downhill from 5300 meters, wizzing down paved switchbacks, green grazing regions and a sparkling river valley below, to lovely Rumtse. We camp in a green campsite just outside of the town, and enjoy a balmy sunset over a few cold Kingfishers!
Day 15 – Bike Stongde, Padum & Reru
Day 16 – Bike Cha & Purne
Day 17 – Purne | Bike & Hike Phuktal Gompa
Day 18 – Bike Kargiak
Day 19 – Bike Shingo La High Camp
Day 20 – Bike Zanskar Sumdo | Cross Shingo La
Shingo La Pass (Zanskar)
“The second branch is formed by two main tributaries known as Kargiak River, with its source near the Shingo La (5091m) and the Tsarap Chu (River), with its source near the Baralacha La. These two rivers unite below the village of Purne to form the Lungnak River (also known as the Lingti or Tsarap river). The Lungnak river then flows north-westwards along a narrow gorge towards Zanskar’s central valley (known locally as jung-khor), where it unites with the Doda river to form the Zanskar River.”
Day 21 – Bike Darcha
Day 22 – Drive Thukje (Tso Kar Nomadic Salt Lake)
Day 23 – Bike Rumtse Camp | Cycle over Tanglang La 5332m
Day 24 – Bike Shakti
Distance: 59.14km Elevation Gain: 637m Elevation Loss: 1,132m
EDIT
Day 25 – Shakti | Cycle Down Kardung La
Distance: 29.44km Elevation Gain: 97m Elevation Loss: 1,564m
EDIT
Day 26 – Bike Leh | Via Hemis – Stok Road
Distance: 52.53km Elevation Gain: 685m Eevation Loss: 890m
EDIT
Our last day of cycling, but a beautiful one to finish off our great ‘sky kingdoms’ cycling trip! From Rumtse the scenery is fabulous, colored by eggplant, moss green and mustard yellow mountains, guarded by massive white washed chortens, with lovely traditional villages, willows and poplars, Ladakhi women dressed in traditional wine colored gonchas. Just after Gya, look across the river to an old monastery built high into a cliff side, recently renovated. Cycling past lovely Miri, we soon reach the intersection of the Indus highway once again, and cross a suspension bridge to reach Upshi, from where we cross over to a small country road on the opposites side of the Indus as the main road. This quiet, tree lined road passes through several villages, past a Muslim mosque, and finally we cycle over the Indus one more time on a small, prayer flag decorated bridge to reach the Tibetan settlement of Choglamsar. From here we have one last challenge, about 10 km of uphill on a pretty paved road, again off the main road, but leading also to Leh and the Shaynam Hotel.
Back at the Shaynam, much needed hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori food and cold beers are not far away at the Ibex. We’ll head out to celebrate the end of a fantastic bicycle journey across much of the Indian Himalaya!
Day 27 – Leh
We’ve scheduled one last day in Leh, our favorite Central Asian capital, in case of delays during the trip. We’ll also have time to do some more shopping and exploring, and to wind down after our journey through the high, nomadic regions of ‘old Tibet’.
Pack up the bikes, or have one last cycle through Leh, Changspa or Chubi’s shady streets, perhaps cycling up again to Shanti Stupa, Gonpa village or the Leh Fortress.
Day 28 – Trip Ends
Our wonderful Himalayan journey ends today. You’re free to spend extra days in Srinagar, continue by land via Jammu to Delhi, or fly to Delhi or elsewhere. We’re happy to assist if you need help with arrangements.
+ See ‘Extensions’ tab for trips to beautiful Pangong Lake on the border of India and China (Tibet) as well as many wonderful day trips (or cycles) out of Srinagar.
Date & Price
Dates
June – July
27 Days
June – July (Short Trip)
19 Days
Trip Price
$5480 (Full Trip)
$4480 (Short Trip)
+ NO Single Supplement for Shaynam Hotel
+ Hotel Single Supplement Omasila +
+ NO Single Supplement for Camping!
+ Flights NOT included (Meet in Leh)
+ Price for 3+ Cyclists
Includes
- Hotels in Leh (Breakfast)
- NO Single Supplement for Camping!
- Restricted Area Permits
- Personalized Leh + Indus Sightseeing (With Kim – by Bicycle)
- Private Jeeps + Support Truck
- Airport Transfers
- Optional Rafting or Cycling Trips
- Kamzang Journeys Boutique Bicycle Trips
Single Northface tents (2+3 person tents), delicious, plentiful meals with seasonal, fresh produce, French Press organic coffee, Indian Chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, trek library of books, full medical kit, our Kamzang ‘lounge’ tent with Indian cotten rugs, Crazy Creek camp chairs, blankets + occasional music in the evenings. For support, our caravan of horses + mules, Western, Sherpa + local guides and our 5-Star Kamzang Journeys team. Highlight is our signature yellow Kamzang dining tent’. NO single supplement for single tents. AND flexibility, experience, adventure, safety, challenge + fun!
Safety & Health Precautions
- Thuraya Satellite Phone (when allowed)
- Garmin InReach Satellite Messaging System (when allowed)
- Updated Route published on Garmin Site (when allowed)
- Helicopter Evacuation Services (when allowed)
- Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
- PAC Bag (portable oxygen chamber)
- Oxygen (cost not included)
- Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
- Katadyn Filtered Water
- Safe, Sanitary, Delicious + Plentiful Food + Drinks
Excludes
- Domestic + International Fights
- Indian Visa
- Lunch + Dinner in Leh
- Bicycle Rental
- Travel + Travel Health Insurance
- Equipment rental
- Alcohol + Bottled Drinks
- Gompa (Monastery) Donations
- Laundry (staff will do for donations)
- Tips
Hotels in Leh | Extra Nights & Boutique Hotels
We use Hotel Shaynam, Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Ladakh, Leh Plaza & Hotel Omasila, as our arrival hotels depending on availability and your room preferences. Our standard hotel with no single supplement charge is the Hotel Shaynam. Kim and the Kamzang Journeys staff stay here, a lovely family-run guest house with a blooming garden, deck chairs, tables and umbrellas. We offer upgrade and single supplement charges for Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Leh, Hotel Leh Plaza and Omasila. We will book all hotels for you regardless of where you stay, so please specify your preference when booking a trek. Breakfast included in all of the hotels.
Hotel Shaynam
Hotel Shaynam
Extra Nights – Single $35 | Double $40
Hotel Chospa | Upgrade Charge
Chospa Hotel
Heritage Rooms – Single $165 | Double $185 Night ($825 & $925 Trip)
Hotel Chospa | Extra Nights
Heritage Rooms – Single $200 | Double $225
Hotel Padma Ladakh | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Padma Ladakh
Garden Rooms – $10 Night Single & Double ($50 Trip)
Deluxe Rooms – $50 Night Single & Double ($250 Trip)
Super Deluxe Rooms – $80 Night Single & Double ($400 Trip)
Premium Rooms with Balcony – $100 Night Single & Double ($500 Trip)
Hotel Padma Ladakh | Extra Nights
Garden Rooms – Single $45 | Double $55
Deluxe Rooms – Single $90 | Double $105
Super Deluxe Rooms – Single $120 | Double $135
Premium Rooms – Single $145 | Double $160
Hotel Leh Plaza | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Leh Plaza
Super Deluxe Rooms – $40 Night Single & Double ($200 Trip)
Premium Rooms – $65 Night Single & Double ($325 Trip)
Hotel Leh Plaza | Extra Nights
Super Deluxe Rooms – Single $75 | Double $95
Premium Rooms – Single $100 | Double $120
Hotel Omasila | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Omasila
Heritage Rooms – $40 Night Single & Double ($200 Trip)
Suite Rooms – $90 Night Single & Double ($450 Trip)
Hotel Omasila | Extra Nights
Heritage Rooms -– Single $65 | Double $75
Suite Rooms – Single $125 | Double $135
Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $300 for meals (while not on trip), drinks (on trip) and tips. We recommend $350 per person thrown into the tips pool for the crew.
Contact & Details
Guides
Kim & Lhakpa
Kamzang Journeys
https://kamzangjourneys.com/
kim@kamzang.com, kamzangkim@gmail.com
info@kamzang.com
Kim Bannister, Chez Kim, Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Nepal
Kamzang Journeys LLC, USA
India Contacts
Kim Mobile: +(91) 9419 981715, 9103 666078
Lhakpa Mobile: +(91) 9419 977569, 70067 70368
Kim’s WhatsApp: +(977) 9803 414745
Lhakpa’s WhatsApp +(977) 9841 235461 (WhatsApp)
Khumbu Adventures (Nepal)
Lhakpa, Doma & Nuru Sherpa
Lhakpa Mobile: +(977) 9841 235461 (WhatsApp), 9823 905461
Doma Mobile: +(977) 9841 510833, 9803 675361
Nuru Wangdi Mobile: +(977) 9803633783 (WhatsApp)
www.khumbuadventures.com
hiking.guide@gmail.com, nuruwangdi@gmail.com
Srinagar & Kashmir Contact
Shangaloo Travels
Mehraj Deen (GM & Ladakh Operations)
mehraj@shanglootravels.com
Mehraj Mobile: +(91) 9419013874, 9858986512
Office: +(91) 0194 2502083
Shangaloo Travels Tel : +(91) 0194 2502082-90, +(91) 9596 787001-20
On-Trek Contact
We are not able to use our satellite phone in India or Ladakh because of security restrictions. In case of emergency, a few numbers are listed below, or contact Doma or Nuru Sherpa of Khumbu Adventures in Nepal. We sometimes have access to landlines during the trek, and will try to use our Garmin InReach for text messaging.
Padma Deachen Mobile (Shaynam Hotel): +(91) 70510 49977 (WhatsApp)
Jigme Mobile (Shaynam Hotel): +(91) 96229 96242 (WhatsApp)
Jigmet Punchok (Driver & Leh Company – Adventures La): +(91) 99062 49085 (WhatsApp)
Ang Chuk Mobile (Driver & Friend): +(91) 94193 44641 (WhatsApp)
Tenzin Wanga Email (Ang Chuk’s Son): tenzinw5@gmail.com
Communications on Trek | Garmin InReach Messaging Service
Kamzang Journeys has a Garmin MapShare page for sending + receiving messages to our Garmin InReach satellite messaging device. Give this link to friends + family who want to follow our progress on the trek, have them send us a message so we have their email in the system. We can message them back directly, email works better than texts. Messages are free, enjoy.
https://share.garmin.com/KimBannister
Kim will post InReach updates to the Kamzang Journeys Facebook page.
Satellite Phones & Drones in India
Satellite phone, Garmin InReach, SPOT or satellite communications of any sort are STRICTLY PROHIBITED in India! Serious consequences, please leave yours at home! Drones are also illegal in Jammu & Kashmir unless registered with the appropriate government office in Delhi.
Kamzang Journeys FaceBook
https://www.facebook.com/kamzangjourneys/
Posts from Leh before + after the trek.
Kamzang Journeys | Kim Bannister Photography
https://kimbannisterphotography.smugmug.com/
Kamzang Journeys Blog
https://www.kamzangjourneys.com/kamzang-journeys-blog/
Shop Kamzang Journeys Products
https://www.kamzangjourneys.com/store/
Shop Kamzang Design
https://www.etsy.com/shop/KamzangDesign
The Kamzang Fund
Sponsoring Children, Medical Issues and Giving Back to Himalayan regions.
https://www.kamzangjourneys.com/kamzang-fund/
Travel Books
https://www.kamzangjourneys.com/kamzang-journeys-travel-books/
Arrival Hotels Leh
Hotel Shaynam
Hotel Omasila
Padma Guest House
Hotels in Leh | Alternative & Luxury Hotels
We use Hotel Shaynam, Padma Guest House or Hotel Omasila as our arrival hotel, depending on availability and your preference. Our standard hotel is the Hotel Shaynam where Kim and the Kamzang Journeys staff stay, a lovely family-run guest house with a blooming garden, deck chairs, tables + umbrellas. We don’t charge a single supplement at Hotel Shayman. We charge a single supplement for Omasila and Padma, and a double upgrade for Omasila. We will book all hotels for you regardless of where you stay. Please specify your preference when booking a trek. Breakfast included in all of the hotels.
Leh Alternative & Luxury Hotels
We will confirm current prices yearly, please inquire …
Alternative Hotels
We’re happy to book other hotels of your choice. Some recommended hotels below.
Hotel Royal Ladakh
Single Supplement – $225
Extra Nights – Single $80, Double $90, Suite $115
Breakfast Included
Dragon Hotel
Single Supplement – $200
Extra Nights – Single $70, Double $80, Suite $120
Breakfast Included
Luxury Hotels
Spash out on one of Leh’s most luxurious hotels! We will be happy to make any bookings needed. Enjoy!
The Grande Dragon Ladakh
Single Deluxe $220, Single Suite $210
Breakfast Included
The Zen Ladakh
Single/Double Premium $155/$180
Zen Cottage – $250
Executive Suite – $310
Presidential Suite – $340
Nimmu House
Nimmu Village (45 Minutes from Leh)
4 Rooms + 5 Tents
Single/Double Rooms – $170/$190
Single/Double Luxury Tents – $185/$205
Pangong Serai
Single Supplement – $50 Per Night
Extra Nights – $50
Breakfast Included
Lunch + Dinner – $20 Per Meal
Travel Medical Insurance
Required for your own safely. We carry a copy of your insurance with all contact, personal and policy information with us on the trek and our office in Kathmandu keeps a copy. Note that we almost always trek over 4000 meters (13,000+ feet) and that we don’t do any technical climbing with ropes, ice axes or crampons.
Note that private helicopter insurance generally not available in India!
Travel Medical & Travel Insurance
TRAVEL MEDICAL INSURANCE is required to travel with us. We strongly recommend TRAVEL INSURANCE as well in case of international or domestic flight cancellation or unexpected costs on the trip such as helicopters when flights are cancelled or passes are impassible. Your insurance must include HELICOPTER EVACUATION and travel over 4000 meters (over 13,000 feet). In INDIA and TIBET helicopter evacuation is more difficult, although we still recommend including this option in your policy. Please do your own research, check with your local insurance provider for the company best for your country, age and trip requirements.
INSURANCE NOTE | Please bring us a PRINTED PAGE with your name, address, personal emergency contact, insurance policy name and number and the overseas contact number to call in case of emergency for us to give to our local agents (we don’t need the particulars, just a one-page copy of the policy).
Global Rescue Services
Safety is our top priority, but unforeseen emergencies can occur on any trek, cycling trip or journey. A Global Rescue membership will provide you with 24 hour advisory services, field rescue (evacuation from your point of injury or illness to the nearest appropriate medical facility), and also evacuation to your home hospital of choice for continuing care all at no cost to you. You can purchase the coverage directly from Kamzang Journeys, with or without the IMG travel medical insurance coverage.
Global Rescue Services
Global Rescue & IMG Travel Medical Insurance
https://globalrescue.com/kamzang/
Travel Medical Insurance Suggestions
Travel Guard & AIG Travel Insurance
http://www.travelguard.com/
HTH Travel Insurance
https://www.hthtravelinsurance.com/
Allianz Care Travel Insurance
https://www.allianzcare.com/en/personal-international-health-insurance/travel-insurance.html
Adventure Sports Cover 360
https://asc360.com/
TravelEx Insurance
https://www.travelexinsurance.com/
AXA Travel Insurance
https://www.axatravelinsurance.com/
CoverMore Travel Insurance
https://www.covermore.com/
World Nomads Travel Insurance
http://www.worldnomads.com/
Seven Corners Travel Insurance
https://www.sevencorners.com/insurance/HW35TW3
Generali Global Insurance
https://us.generaliglobalassistance.com/
World Trips Atlas Travel Insurance
https://www.worldtrips.com/travel/insurance/Atlas-International-Insurance/
Ripcord Travel Insurance
http://www.ripcordrescuetravelinsurance.com/
International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) – FREE Membership
www.iamat.org
Helicopter Service & Rescues Leh, Ladakh
Please pass on this information to your travel medical insurance provider …
HeliService Ladakh (Government Agency)
https://heliservice.ladakh.gov.in/
+91 01982-255567, contact@heliservice.ladakh.gov.in
Ladakh Rescue Center
Mr. Nasir Mohd
+91 96229 98919, 94194 41333, nasiradvo786@gmail.com
Working together with:
Pawan Hans Helicopter Service (Government Regulated))
https://www.pawanhans.co.in/english/index.aspx
Medical
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs etc. but please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety.
DO bring all prescription medications and good rehydration/electrolytes. We advise bringing your own Diamox, Ciprofloxin, Azithromyacin & Augmentin. We have all of these with us but the Western versions are always better than the Indian equivalents.
PAC Bag & Oxygen
We carry a Portable Oxygen Chamber, or Gammow Bag, with us on many treks. There is no charge for use of the PAC bag but oxygen is $300 per canister (cost price, pass on to insurance company).
Health Information
India Health Information
CDC
We also recommend bringing probiotics with you to help prevent infections while on trek. Doctor’s recommendation!
Arrival India
Arrival in India
ARRIVAL NOTE | Flights to/from Leh are NOT included in the price or itinerary. Everyone will need to arrange their own flight or overland trip to Leh. You can book your international flights all the way to Leh, Ladakh (IXL) which will ensure that your flight provider is responsible for hotels if your flight is delayed or cancelled. You might also want to come overland from Manali, breath-taking jeep safari, or from Srinagar, both some of the planet’s most spectacular drives.
Email us your flight arrival details and have our contact details with you when you arrive in Delhi in case you need assistance. Kim will have her mobile with her, as will our agents from Dhruv Travels, so don’t hesitate to call. We can help with hotels, flights, airport pick-ups and drops, sightseeing in Delhi or travels further to Rajasthan or Agra & the Taj Mahal (see Dhruv Travels).
GET YOUR INDIAN VISA
You can get your Indian e-Visas (visa-on-arrival) online, either at the Indian government website or at the easier, and slightly more expensive iVisa website. Extensions are possible but very difficult. You must have your visa BEFORE arriving in India!
INDIAN GOVERNMENT SITE
https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/evisa/tvoa.html
https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/evisa/Registrationi
VISA
https://www.ivisa.com/india-visa-application
INDIAN VISA REFERENCE & ADDRESSES
Hotel Leh: Shaynam Hotel, 20 Old Leh Road, Leh, Ladakh, 194101
+(91) 70510 49977
Contact: Jigmet Singay Dadul &/or Padma Deachen
Mobile: +91 70510 49977 (Padma)
Mobile: +91 96229 96242 (Jigmet)
EXAMPLE:
Reference Name: Padma Deachen
Address: 20 Old Leh Road
Line 2: Ladakh
State: Jammu & Kashmir (or Ladakh, when the system is updated)
District: Leh
Phone: 70510 49977 (don’t need +91)
NOTE: Don’t add spaces or +country code when adding your phone or mobile numbers.
Travel Agent Delhi: Dhruv Travels, 2464, Nalwa St, Chuna Mandi, Paharganj, New Delhi, 110055 (Tel: +91 11 2358 2715)
Kim’s Mobile: +(91) 9419 981715
Satellite Phones & Drones
Satellite phones are ILLEGAL in all of India, including Jammu & Kashmir. If you are caught with a satellite phone, SPOT, Garmin InReach or another satellite device it will be confiscated, you will be fined and the owner might go to jail or be restricted from re-entering India. This is serious!
Drones are also illegal in Jammu & Kashmir unless registered with the government in Delhi.
Delhi Hotels
Some suggestions for extra nights + layovers in Delhi, near the airport
Marriott Aero City
The Muse Sarovar
Red Fox
Holiday Inn (Airport)
Andaz Delhi
Architectural Digest Article on Andaz
Delhi Restaurants & Bars
Zomato Restaurant Reviews
Notes on Itinerary
Although we try to follow the itinerary below, it is ONLY a guideline based on years of experience trekking in the Himalaya. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group’s acclimatization rate or sickness.
The Himalaya are our passion, and we take trekking seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure …
Temperatures & Clothing
Dress conservatively in Leh and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are okay if they aren’t too short, mini skirts aren’t recommended. Sleeveless t-shirts are absolutely fine, but perhaps avoid tank-tops on the trail. Super tight doesn’t go over so well with the village elders. Many of the younger generation in Nepal wear modern Indian or Western-influenced clothes, but remember that you haven’t signed up for a beach or surf vacation. Use your good judgment, be an ambassador for western tourists! Please ask Kim or your guide if unsure about appropriate clothing.
Leh is generally very hot during the day (t-shirt weather) and cool at night (long sleeve shirt, fleece or synthetic jacket weather depending on month in the summer). A sun hat is essential during the day, sandals like Keens perfect for both a wander around town and trekking. Ladakh is very casual, a pair of jeans and shirt fine for evenings.
Trekking temperatures vary considerably, and you will need a wide range of trekking gear during the trek. Gear will range from sandals to boots, from t-shirts to down jackets. We suggest packing a warm sleeping bag, and bring layers. A full discussion of gear on ‘Gear’ tab.
Cultural Issues
Ladakhis are very open and welcoming, but there are a few issues you should be aware of to make your stay in Ladakh more fulfilling. Use your right hand to pass things, shake hands or do most anything. Left hands are somewhat taboo. Best not to pat kids on heads, or point feet ahead of you at monasteries. Don’t walk over someone’s legs or feet, but put your hand down in front of you to signal them to pull their legs to the side. Take off shoes and hats when going into Buddhist monasteries and Hindu temples, don’t use flashes inside monasteries or temples in general, be respectful of a puja (prayer ceremony) if attending one. You can talk, all religious are very tolerant, but be aware of your level of voice.
Ladakhis don’t anger quickly, so try not to raise your voice if exasperated or angry as it only will make a situation worse. Do bargain at shops, with taxis and rickshaws, but don’t fleece them. They are poor and making a living, generally.
Give small donations on the streets if you choose, but try not to encourage begging too much. Be aware of who you are giving money to, and please only give small amounts. If you do want to donate to a cause, ask about our Kamzang Fund or other responsible organizations.
Note that Leh and Ladakh are melting pots of different religions: Buddhist, Hindu and Muslim, as well as a few Christians. Tolerance and acceptance of all religions tolerated!
Pampering Yourself in Leh
Inquire if you’re interested in staying in one of Leh’s high end hotels. A few suggestions …
Stok Palace
‘Built entirely by the Ladakhi craftsmen in 1820, the Stok Palace still continues to be a snug abode for the Namgyal dynasty. The Namgyal dynasty traces its origin to its founder –Lhachen Palgygon as early as 10th century. You are entering a historical property and the Palace stands 195 years old. The Stok Palace was opened to public in 1980 with blessings of His Holiness the Dalai Lama and since it’s been over a decade and visitors continues to pour from all over the World. It encapsulates and reflects the lifestyle and history of Royalties set in the midst of the valley of Singey Sangpo which is known more popularly as Indus River.
Preserved from urbanity, this pristine natural landscape allows you to relax in serene atmosphere, pregnant with the delicious aroma of the country side and amazing views all around and takes the visitors through the imagery experience, detailing the softness of Snow, the brilliance of sunlight, billowing clouds, wandering pathways, and picturesque local architecture. As with anything embracing the grandeur and beauty of nature, the landscapes achieve a sense of timelessness; they envelop the echoes and silence of eons gone by. So come and enjoy the fine dining experience prepared from the family kitchen products coming from the local market and village. You can enjoy the pleasures of healthy and natural Ladakhi, Tibetan and Indian food.’
Nimmu House
‘Nimmu House Ladakh is a sustainable Hotel in Ladakh, 30 km from Leh, in the village of Nimmoo. A noble house belonging to the cousin of the king of Ladakh, from the early 90s, surrounded by an orchard. Nimmu House includes five spacious tents scattered across the orchard and a room located in the house. Activities include Hiking, trekking, rafting, cooking classes, visits to the village of Nimmu and the monasteries of the Indus Valley’
The Ultimate Traveling Camp
‘The first truly mobile luxury camps in India covering a calendar of destinations and festivals. This nomadic super luxury camp introduces the discerning traveller to different adventures in Carefully selected exceptional locations in the mountains, deserts, jungles and unexplored Countryside. Experience the many moods of exotic India with its dramatic landscapes, rustic and unexplored rural surroundings. Rediscover yourself…meet gurus from the far reaches of the Himalayas, raft down the River Indus, watch a game of Polo, a sport of the Royals, picnic in picturesque spots, celebrate tribal hues at the Hornbill Festival, explore quaint tribal Naga villages, or simply curl up in your ‘tent with a view’!
Tips for Staff
We recommend at least $200 per person to go into the tip pool for the staff. Please bring IC with you on the trek for the tips. It’s nice to buy the staff drinks on the last night. Or any other night that you feel like getting them a bottle of run!
Tips in General
Tips are always appreciated but they don’t need to be extravagant. 50 IC to carry bags to/from your room is fine. 100 IC for drivers to/from the airport. Round up taxi fares. A larger tip would be expected for a day trip in a car, perhaps 500 IC. 10% is included in some restaurant and hotel bills in India, and if it’s not included it’s still expected. Check your bills, and still round up at restaurants. Feel free to give out small change to the beggars in the streets (5, 10, 20 IC).
Cash & ATMs
You’ll want some cash with you on the trek for drinks, snacks, beer, sodas, etc. There are often chances to during the trek, and usually local crafts to buy en route. (You’ll want your tip money IC as well). There are ATMs in Leh but they don’t dispense large amounts of cash so you’ll be best with currency to change. Traveler’s checks not recommended in India.
Extra Days in India | Customize Your Journey
We are happy to book extra nights at the hotel, or a hotel of your choice, if you want to stay in Leh for a few extra days to explore our favorite Central Asian capital, or just to relax and soak in the mountain scenery. We are also happy to book trips to Nubra, sightseeing jeep safaris along the Indus Valley, rafting, bicycling down the Kardung La or any other activity you would like.
See our Extensions Tab for trip ideas!
Map
Highlights & Reviews
Trip Advisor Reviews
Client Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments
Cycle Trip Highlights
- Epic Himalayan Bicycling
- Approx 900 Kilometer Bicycle Trip
- Approx 12,000+ Meters Total Altitude Gain
- Exotic Leh + Historic Indus Valley
- Otherworldly High Salt Lakes (Tso Morori, Tso Kar + More)
- Cycle Over The Kardung La + Wari La (both 5300+ meters)
- Desert-like Nubra Valley, Bactian Camels, Oasis Villages + Sand Dunes
- Cycling along the Shayok River
- Traditional Ladakhi Villlages
- Camping with Nomads + Nomadic Life (Yaks, Nomadic Tents, Pashmina Goats, Salt Butter Tea)
- Himalayan Passes + Snow Peaks
- Buddhist Ladakh + Tibetan Buddhist Monasteries
- Great Campsites
- Central Asian Wildlife
- Challenging Cycling, Good Roads
- Lots of Exploration
- Our Kamzang Journeys ‘Boutique’ Campsites!
- Our Kamzang Journeys Wonderful Food!
Himalaya Bicycle Trip Photos
Cycle the Himalaya
Kim Bannister Photography | Trek & Travel Photos
Himalayan Trip Photos
Kamzang Journeys Menus
Camp Menus
Clients’ Highlights & Comments
From Lhasa to Kathmandu – Cycling across the Tibetan Plateau! I can only highly (once more, highly) recommend Kamzang Journeys. Absolutely top notch experience, when it comes to exploring the remote Himalayas, by either hiking or biking. This time, we have cycled across the Tibetan Plateau for about 1000 kms. Stunning. Magnificent. Mesmerizing. Adventurous. And safe. Superb logistics, organisation & Team (really!). Deep insights into the Tibetan culture from a beautiful soul who has been living the Himalayan spirit for nearly 20 years. Kamzang Journeys will make your experience an unforgettable memory. Kim & Lhakpa are knowledgeable (this is an understatement), are passionate about the region, its people and their culture & traditions. Food is truly beyond expectations, camp sites always stunning & relaxing, and Kim & her Team will go the extra mile to secure your safety. Full disclosure: over the past 11 years or so, i have repeatedly returned to Kamzang Journeys for the joy of experiencing the Himalayan region, with authenticity & simplicity, as most of their customers do. (and this is a testimony of the quality & the love of their “services”). Kamzang Journeys: you rock!
– Laurence V (France), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018
Lhasa to Kathmandu Bicycle Trip. A difficult trip to organize went wonderfully with Kamzang Journeys. Fantastic food. Great people. Don’t know how it could have been better!
– Grant E (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018
The experience I had when I cycled with Kamzang Journeys was incredible. The team, as well as the guides, were fantastic and extremely helpful. Kim made you feel very safe and comfortable and had great knowledge, and the sights, characters and the culture were a dream. Definitely worth it and I will definitely go again.
– Nita B (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018
The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip! When I first searched online for a Nepal trekking guide in 2006, I found Kim Bannister. I was most impressed by the fact that the person leading my trek was the one answering my emails and that she evidenced a commitment to an environmental ethic and to treating her staff (and, when relevant, the pack animals) with respect and fairness. Not one other company mentioned any kind of valued ethic, let alone provided a personal response. Back then I was inquiring about a trek to the Everest Region, a bucket list dream of mine. Though I have since made that journey with Kim, I did not go in 2006, because Kim provided the honest insight that summer was not a good time to go to the that region due to the monsoon and suggested Ladakh instead. Though I was sure Everest was the only place I wanted to go, I jumped at the alternative adventure, already trusting Kim’s expertise and knowing that I was to be led by a capable, reasoned guide. I have since trekked with Kim to Dolpo, Everest High Passes, and just returned from the cycling trek with Kim from Lhasa to Kathmandu. In 2007 Kim also set up a Tibet jeep trip for me and has connected me to contacts in India. I trust Kim implicitly. Every place one might travel in the entire Himalayan region — Nepal, India, China, Bhutan — is, by its nature, wildly unpredictable, from the weather, to closed borders, cancelled flights, lost luggage, runaway animals, altitude sickness, and beyond. Kim manages such fluidness with impressive agility, resource, and calm. We have shared quite a few wonderful stories, laughs, amazing food, and our share of beer over these adventures. As myself an experienced outdoor educator and leader, risk management consultant, and now attorney, my 2006 bet with Kim has paid off exquisitely. Stop looking now — you have found the best.
– Anne M (USA), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018
High passes, nomads and wild, remote country. Adventure is never far! I have just returned from two months trekking in the Ladakh-Zanskar region in India with Kim and her excellent team. This was my SEVENTH trek with Kim and I would have to say they get better each year. Kamzang Journeys never disappoints. From the very high standard, variety and amount of food, to the spacious 3-man tents (for each individual), to the safety and care shown by her staff and to the unique dining tent that all other groups envy. If you are looking for a remote, interesting trek or trip in Asia I would highly recommend Kamzang Journeys. There has to be a reason everyone comes back!
– Sue W, Nomads, Lakes & High Passes AND Wild Ladakh Zanskar Traverse Treks 2018
Outstanding trekking adventure, first class guides and personal attention – this is why Kamzang has so many repeat clients! We trekked with Kim Bannister and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa for 22 days through remote Zanskar in Aug 2014. It was the adventure of a lifetime. Kim has many years experience and a loyal team of support staff and horsemen. Food and camping were very well organized; Kim and Lhakpa lead us through stunning scenery into remote Zanskari villages. Their detailed local knowledge and ability to speak with villagers made for a memorable rich experience. Over high passes and crossing rivers we always were in good hands. Thoroughly recommended if you really want to trek off the map.
– David R & Kathy F (Canada), Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2014
This was the fifth time I’ve trekked with Kamzang Journeys and Kim and her crew it was lovely to be back amongst friends. Ladakh is a fabulous destination and a real step back in time to ‘real’ travelling. Trekking with Kim and her crew is authentic but also luxurious; a single tent as standard, the ‘Festival Tent’ for relaxation and meals, hot water for tea/coffee on ‘tap’, and great standards of cooking! No fears of food poisoning as hygiene is excellent. If you’re stuck with June – September for your long Himalayan trekking Ladakh is the place to go and Kim and Kamzang Journeys are the people to go with!
– Sally L (UK), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek, Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek (& More!)
A bucket list must, and an expeditionary style adventure in a pristine environment. All at the good hands of Kim Bannister, the organizational wizard, and her extraordinary staff. Kim and her guide partner Lhakpa Dorji led us on an idyllic route through the remote and beautiful Ladakh & Zanskar region of northern India. My initial apprehensions, as a first time trekker, were quickly extinguished by the friendly and professional manner of the competent staff. It was the experience of a life time, certainly one that I will never forget. This trekking company deserves a “5 star rating”! You need only bring a good set of lungs, a strong pair of legs, a zest for adventure and a sense of humor. I will return!
– Tom B (USA), Ladakh & Zanskar Kora Trek 2013
Magnificent treks and highly professional! I have trekked with Kim four times, three in Ladakh in Northern India and one in Nepal. On all four occasions the treks were very well organised and run in a very professional manner. Kim’s crew are all enthusiastic and are very happy to provide assistance where necessary. As trekkers you are very well looked after with individual tents and a large tent for socializing and dining. Kim and Lhakpa plan their treks so they are interesting and that they go off the beaten track and you are not walking in procession with other trekking groups, Kim is aware of the different needs and capabilities of her trekkers and her daily itineraries cater for all. On the more challenging parts of her treks Kim and her crew are always there to support. I hope to do more trekking with Kim and Kamzang Journeys and highly recommend them.
– Dennis B (Australia), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2015, Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2013 (& More!)
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Articles & Documentaries | Ladakh & Zanskar, Indian Himalaya
Kamzang Journeys | The Ladakh Great Himalayan Bicycle Trip | David Koelle | YouTube Video
Stunning Time Lapse of Ladakh in 4K | Reels & Frames
Becoming a Woman in Zanskar | Jean-Michel Corillion
Ladakh Diaries | Postcard from Paradise | India Today – Features Kamzang Journeys
Nomads in Ladakh: Hard Living at Altitude | Blog by France LeClerc
On Snow Leopard Mountain | BBC Planet Earth
Child Monks of the Himalayas | BBC – In Pictures
Chang Tang Pa | Cat Vinton Photo Essay
Silent Roar, The Snow Leopard | National Geographic Documentary
Shepherdess of the Glaciers | Trailer YouTube
Ladakh, Mountains & Men | Le Figaro
Blog Article | Za Rahula Local Nomadic God
Ladakh, the Last Shangri La | National Geographic
A Journey to Little Tibet | National Geographic
Legends of Dha Hanu | Stephan Kloos
India: Extreme Biking in Beautiful Ladakh | The Telegraph UK
The Grey Ghosts of the Mountains | Vimeo
Kashmir, the Inheritance of Loss | New York Times
Cracking India’s Mystifying Nod Code – BBC Travel
The Ravishing Art of Alchi – NY Times Books
The Planet Doesn’t Need Money, It Needs Behavioral Change: Sonam Wanchuk | The Week
A Brother’s Five Decade Search for a Lost King From Ladakh | A Better India
The Ice Stupas | New Yorker
Yak Herders’ Vanishing Way of Life | New York Times
Himalaya, Land of Women | Marianne Chaud ZED Arte France
Our World Return to Zanskar | BBC
Kashmir & Srinagar
A Journey to Kashmir’s Gurez Valley | NY Times
Kashmir, the Inheritance of Loss | New York Times
What is Article 270 & Why Does it Matter in Kashmir? | New York Times
Haider | Film about Kashmir
Fascinating Delhi & India Article Series
Jungle Prince of Delhi | NY Times
Mystery of the Royal Family of Oudh Unravels a Bit More | NY Times
Special Episode | The Jungle Prince | NY Times
Street Food in India | India Mike Blog
Gandhi & India | BBC Documentaries
In Search of Gandhi | BBC Documentary
The Making of the Mahatma – Part 1
Ladakh Cycling Videos
Nubra – Wari La Cycle | David Koelle
Lamayuru, Leh, Nubra + Khardung La Cycle – | David Koelle
Pangong Lake + Chang La Cycle | David Koelle
Srinagar – Lamayuru Cycle | David Koell
Leh – Manali Cycle | David Koelle
Kamzang Journeys | Ladakh Trek Videos
Kamzang Journeys | Kharnak Nomads | MennoBen
Kamzang Journeys | Markha Valley | MennoBen
Kamzang Journeys | Changthang Nomads | MennoBen
Kamzang Journeys | Rupshu Nomads | MennoBen
Leh & Indus Valley | MennoBen
Gear
Kamzang Journeys Products
Duffel Bags, T-Shirts, Camp Towels, Buffs, Leather Passport Wallets, Totes & Bags, Himalayan Textile Pillow Covers & More!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Bicycle
Will you rent or bring your own? Many airlines allow a bicycle packed in a bike box for no extra charge. Emirates is on that list. Rentals are from bicycle shops in Leh, relatively good quality mountain bikes.
NOTE: You can bring a mountain bike or a touring bike on most roads in the Indian Himalaya, and use fat tires or touring tires. There are advantages to both types of tires, and no bike will be perfect for all terrain. Most roads are paved, often very badly, although we will be cycling on some unpaved roads and jeep tracks.
+ See Gear tab
Bicycle Maintenance
You are responsible for knowing something about the maintenance of a bicycle although we have cyclists with us who are adept at fixing bike issues, and Lhakpa is a pretty good bike mechanic. If you don’t know anything, we recommend having a quick session at your local bike shop to know how to repair punctures and learn a few basics.
Duffel Bags
We have Kamzang Journeys large orange duffel bags for $50! Please inquire early as we need to bring from Kathmandu.
Rentals
We have Western down jackets to rent for $1.50 per day. We also have good super-down sleeping bags to rent (0 to -10 F) for $2.50 per day.
Packing + Storage
It’s easiest to pack and unpack from a duffel bag, especially when the temperature drops. Best to invest in a strong, waterproof duffel such as a North Face. You can store extra gear in Leh at the hotel.
Shopping
You can get some trekking gear in Leh, such as trekking poles, sleeping bags (about 0F), light down jackets, Chinese-made gear which is often quite wearable. Top up your gear in Leh if you need to, but best not to rely on purchasing too much there.
On Your Bike
You will need to carry certain things with you while riding, and the extras you can store in our back-up vehicle. In your daypack (or panniers) you will need:
- Helmet & warm hat
- Warm, windproof jacket & tights
- Warm, windproof cycling gloves
- Wind &/or rain jacket
- Lightweight synthetic or down jacket
- Camera
- Water
- Small bike-repair kit (extra tube, puncture repair kit, multi-tool, lube | chain oil)
- Headlamp
- Small medical kit
- SPF lip balm & sunscreen
- Polarized sunglasses
- Snacks
Other Gear (Optional)
- Pedals
- Saddle
- Bike shoes
- Panniers
- Bike tubes (specifically sized for your bike tires)
- Spare tire
- Spare wheel set
- Spare RD hanger
- Brake pads (extra pair if you still use pads)
Gear List
This is a guideline, not a bible, for the gear you will need on the trek. Ask if you have questions! One 15 kg (33 lbs) maximum weight limit for the duffel bag for flights. 20 kg (50 lbs) weight limit for treks.
- Small daypack | Biking pack
- Sleeping bag (-20F/-30C recommended)
- Thermarest (Air mattress)
- Sneakers, Keens or light shoes (city, evenings)
- Crocs (camp + washing)
- Cycling tights
- Cycling T-shirts
- Cycling L/S shirts
- Cycling windproof jacket
- Cycling gloves
- Cycling socks
- Cycling beenie (hat)
- Down jacket
- T-shirts (city)
- Pants or skirt (city)
- Fleece or thermal jacket (evenings, city)
- Fleece or thermal top (evenings)
- Fleece or thermal bottoms (evenings)
- Lightweight Gortex jacket & pants (wind & rainproof)
- Lightweight long underwear (to sleep in or layer under clothes)
- Socks (evening, city)
- Gloves (evening)
- Thermal hat
- Down booties (optional, recommended)
- Sunglasses (2, bring extra pair)
- Water bottles
- Bladder (optional)
- Toiletries, sunscreen with SPF, lipbalm with SPF & personal medical supplies
- Watch (or small clock with alarm)
- Extra batteries & battery chargers
- Headlamp (2, bring extra)
- Laundry Detergent (Lhasa) or Bio-degradable Soap
- Hand Sanitizer
- Books
- Zip-lock bags
- SOFT toilet paper or tissues (we supply Chinese toilet paper but you’ll want something softer for blowing your nose)
- Baby-Wipes | Wet-Wipes OR Chux (for washing)
- Rehydration | Electrolytes
- Snacks!
NOTE | We have a ‘dress code’ for the evenings in the tent, which essentially means you’ll be changing out of your sweaty cycling clothes and into clean, dry evening clothes!
Medical & Suggested MEDS
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs etc. but please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety!
Suggested prescriptions + meds: Dexamethasone, Nifedipine + Diamox (altitude), Azithromycin, Ciprofloxacin + Augmentin (antibiotics), Compeed or blister bandages, Tegaderm, bandages, tape, antibiotic ointment + Betadine (Povidone-Iodine ointment) (wounds + cuts), knee + ankle supports/braces (if required), ACE bandage for sprains + strains. Bring whatever pain meds you generally use (Ibuprofen, Paracetamol/Tylenol, Diclofenac), meds for diarrhea (Loperimide/Immodium) and nausea (Ondansetron), antihistamines (non-drowsy, and Benadryl is ok for a drowsy one that might help with sleep), as well as any medications that you take regularly or that your doctor prescribes. We recommend picking up a combination salmeterol and fluticasone inhaler in Kathmandu, good for (from a doctor trekking friend “high altitude cough due to reactive airways, which is kind of like temporary asthma. The ingredients in the inhaler relax the bronchial passages and calm inflammation in the airways.”
Stay away from sleeping medications, drugs in the codeine-opiate-narcotic family and other drugs that suppress your breathing (not a good at altitude). And don’t forget electrolytes! – have some with you in your pack (as well as snacks) every day please …
We’re happy to take excess medical supplies off your hands when you leave if you won’t need them and pass them on to others. We use lots of the large amount we have with us to treat locals as well as our own trekkers…
Comments on Gear
On our cycling trips in the Indian Himalaya we stay in tents at our Kamzang campsites. For sightseeing and visiting monasteries you will want other shoes and comfortable clothes. Mornings and evenings are always chilly in the Himalaya, even in the summer, while days can be scorching.
Nights are chilly to cold, so a down jacket and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. We recommend a down sleeping bag of 0 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C). Campsites near passes can get COLD. Rentals are available although they are only about 0 to -10F. The dining tent is a Tibetan style ‘yurt’, with rugs, blankets and camp chairs on the ground. It warms up in the evenings with everyone inside and hot tea but it is still important to have warm clothes for the evenings. Down booties are great when it’s cold, a down jacket is essential, and down or synthetic pants are also nice to have.
Crocs for washing and the evenings are also very useful. Wear a pair of warm socks under them for going in and out of the dining tent which is a ‘shoes off’ zone. Tevas take a long time to dry, not recommended.Good, polarized sunglasses are essential; please bring an extra pair if you tend to lose them! Don’t forget a sun hat &/or baseball cap and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF!
Tents
Everyone gets their own 3-person dome tent without a single supplement. Singles have a 2-person tent and couples share a larger, 3-person version.
Water
We bring KATADYN expedition-sized water filters along on the trek for fresh drinking water, ecologically the best way to get water in the Himalaya’s fragile trekking regions. Bring your own filter pump, Steripen/UV purifier or iodine/chlorine tablets for fresh water while trekking. NOTE: To be extra safe with your drinking water, you can drop one purifying tablet into your water bottle after filling with our filtered water. Make sure you wait the required amount of time before drinking, and don’t add anything with Vitamin C as this negates the iodine.
Please bring at least 2 Nalgene, Sigg or other unbreakable plastic or metal water bottles. Camelbacks and other bladder systems are great for cycling.
Snacks
You will need snacks at altitude, even if you’re not a snacker. Energy bars, ‘GU’ gels, chocolate bars, dried fruit & nuts, beef jerky (or whatever) are important to have along for long days, pre-lunch bonks and passes. Lemonade mix, Emergen-C or similar drink mixes are great to have for hot days in your water bottles, and it is ESSENTIAL to bring electrolytes with you every day.
Bring something to share in the tent in the evenings if you want. Cheese is great as a treat on a cheese-board before dinner (Blue, Stilton, Yarlsburg, good Cheddar, Brie, etc). If you would like, bring a bit of your favorite and we’ll throw it on a cheese board for appetizers one night. Nothing besides your personal snack food is required, but it’s fun to see what everyone comes up with! Almost all basics available in Kathmandu, so no need to over-load.
Ladakh, Nubra & Kashmir Extensions
Srinagar & the Jewels of Kashmir Journey
Kashmir, Srinagar & Indus Jeep Safari
A great extension to any of our Kamzang Journeys treks in Ladakh & Zanskar, or a wonderful trip on its own. Kashmir and Srinagar are some of the jewels of the Indian Himalaya, often described by local Kashmiris as ‘heaven on earth’. We are offering a wonderful nine-day itinerary, flying from Delhi to Srinagar and finishing in Leh via the overland route. There are many ways to customize this trip, please get in touch to make this trip exactly what you are looking for!
Some of the highlights: old historic Srinagar & the Mughal Gardens, touring Dal & Nageen Lakes by shikara (local boat), the atmospheric morning floating market, a visit to Dacigram National Park, an excursion Manasbal & Wular Lake, the largest lake in Asia, a tour of Yousmarg and a visit to Naranag Temple, the oldest in Kashmir. En route to Leh you’ll have the option to drive the stunningly beautiful Indus highway via the Koji La, with a chance to visit idyllic Sonmarg and stop at several Tibetan Buddhist monasteries along the road to Leh. Or you can take a one-hour flight directly to Leh. Enjoy the world renown beauty and hospitality of Kashmir!
Nubra, the Indus Valley & the Nomadic Salt Lake Regions Journey
Leh, Indus Valley Monasteries & Salt Lakes
A nearly perfect extension and a great trip on its own! Tour Central Asian Nubra, Leh, the Indus Valley monasteries (gompas, in Tibetan or Ladakhi) and the breathtakingly beautiful and culturally interesting salt lake region of northern Ladakh, bordering Tibet (China). Visit the nomadic communities at Tso Moriri, the traditional villages at Pangong Lake and explore the bustling Tibetan Buddhist monasteries en route to these lakes via a newly opened route! A wonderful jeep safari though the Indian Himalaya. There is lots to explore in historic Leh and the historic Indus Valley, tucked away amongst the shady villages and intriguing alleyways of this Central Asian capital.
Ladakh & Zanskar
Ladakh & Zanskar Information
“The center of Leh is a wide bazaar where much polo is played in the afternoons; and above this the many irregular flat-roofed, many-balconied houses cluster around the palace and a gigantic chorten alongside it. The rugged crest of the rock on a spur of which the palace stands is crowned by the fantastic buildings of an ancient gonpa … a very mixed population in which the Moslem element is always increasing … partly due to the marriage of Moslem traders with Ladakhi women who embrace the faith of their husbands.
Great caravans en route for Khotan, Yarkand and even Chinese Tibet arrived daily from Kashmir, the Punjab and Afganistan, and stacked their bales of goods in the place. The Lhasa traders opened shops in which the specialties were brick tea and instruments of worship. Merchants from Amritsar, Kabul, Bokhara and Yarkand … thronged the bazaar and opened bales of costly goods in tantalizing fashion. Mules, asses, horses and yaks kicked, squealed and bellowed; the dissonance of bargaining tongues rose high. There were mendicant monks, Indian fakirs, Moslem dervished, Mecca pilgrims, itinerant musicians, and Buddhist ballad howlers. Broad-faced women with creels on their backs brought in lucerne, Ladakhis, Baltis and Lahaulis tended the beasts
… Lhasa traders in heavy winter clothing exchange their expensive teas for Nubra and Baltistan dried apricots, Kashmir saffron and rich stuffs from India. Merchants from Yarkand on big Turkestan horses offer hemp, which is smoked as opium, and Russian triffles and dress goods, under cloudless skies. With the huge Kailas (Karakorum) range as a background, this great rendezvous of Central Asian traffic has a great fascination, even though moral shadows of the darkest kind abound.” (Leh 1894)
– Excerpts from ‘Among the Tibetans’ – Isabella Bird Bishop
History of Ladakh & Zanskar
“Ladakh (the ‘land of high passes’) is a region in Indian state of Ladakh that currently extends from the Kunlun Mountains to the main Great Himalayas to the south, inhabited by people of Indo-Aryan and Tibetan descent. It is one of the most sparsely populated regions in Jammu and Kashmir and its culture and history are closely related to that of Tibet. Ladakh is renowned for its remote mountain beauty and culture. The Tibetan name La-dvags means ‘land of high passes’ It connected India with the Silk Road. Ladakh is its pronunciation in several Tibetan districts, and a transliteration of the Persian spelling.
Historically, the region included the Baltistan (Baltiyul) valleys (now mostly in Pakistan), the entire upper Indus Valley, the remote Zanskar, Lahaul and Spiti to the south, much of Ngari including the Rudok region and Guge in the east, Aksai Chin in the northeast (extending to the Kun Lun Mountains), and the Nubra Valley to the north over Khardong La in the Ladakh Range. Contemporary Ladakh borders Tibet to the east, the Lahaul and Spiti regions to the south, the Vale of Kashmir, Jammu and Baltiyul regions to the west, and the southwest corner of Xinjiang across the Karakoram Pass in the far north.
Aksai Chin is one of the disputed border areas between China and India. It is administered by China as part of Hotan County but is also claimed by India as a part of the Ladakh region of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. In 1962, China and India fought a brief war over Aksai Chin and Arunachal Pradesh, but in 1993 and 1996 the two countries signed agreements to respect the Line of Actual Control.
In the past Ladakh gained importance from its strategic location at the crossroads of important trade routes, but since the Chinese authorities closed the borders with Tibet and Central Asia in the 1960s, international trade has dwindled except for tourism. Since 1974, the Government of India has successfully encouraged tourism in Ladakh. Since Ladakh is a part of strategically important Jammu and Kashmir, the Indian military maintains a strong presence in the region.The largest town in Ladakh is Leh, followed by Kargil. Almost half of Ladakhis are Shia Muslims and the rest are mostly Tibetan Buddhists. Some Ladakhi activists have in recent times called for Ladakh to be constituted as a union territory because of perceived unfair treatment by Kashmir and Ladakh’s cultural differences with predominantly Muslim Kashmir.”
History of Ladakh & Zanskar
“Rock carvings found in many parts of Ladakh indicate that the area has been inhabited from Neolithic times. Ladakh’s earliest inhabitants consisted of a mixed Indo-Aryan population of Mons and Dards, who find mention in the works of Herodotus, Nearchus, Megasthenes, Pliny, Ptolemy, and the geographical lists of the Puranas. Around the 1st century, Ladakh was a part of the Kushana empire. Buddhism spread into western Ladakh from Kashmir in the 2nd century when much of eastern Ladakh and western Tibet was still practicing the Bon religion. The 7th century Buddhist traveler Xuanzang describes the region in his accounts.
In the 8th century, Ladakh was involved in the clash between Tibetan expansion pressing from the East and Chinese influence exerted from Central Asia through the passes. Suzerainty over Ladakh frequently changed hands between China and Tibet. In 842 Nyima-Gon, a Tibetan royal prince annexed Ladakh for himself after the break-up of the Tibetan empire, and founded a separate Ladakhi dynasty. During this period, Ladakh acquired a predominantly Tibetan population. The dynasty spearheaded the second spreading of Buddhism, importing religious ideas from north-west India, particularly from Kashmir. The first spreading of Buddhism was the one in Tibet proper.
According to Rolf Alfred Stein, author of Tibetan Civilization, the area of Zhangzhung was not historically a part of Tibet and was a distinctly foreign territory to the Tibetans. According to Rolf Alfred Stein, “The Tibetans encountered a distinctly foreign nation—Shangshung, with its capital at Khyunglung. Mt. Kailāśa (Tise) and Lake Manasarovar formed part of this country, whose language has come down to us through early documents. Though still unidentified, it seems to be Indo-European. Geographically the country was certainly open to India, both through Nepal and by way of Kashmir and Ladakh. Kailāśa is a holy place for the Indians, who make pilgrimages to it. No one knows how long they have done so, but the cult may well go back to the times when Shangshung was still independent of Tibet. How far Zhangzhung stretched to the north, east and west is a mystery. We have already had an occasion to remark that Shangshung, embracing Kailāśa sacred Mount of the Hindus, may once have had a religion largely borrowed from Hinduism. The situation may even have lasted for quite a long time. In fact, about 950, the Hindu King of Kabul had a statue of Vişņu, of the Kashmiri type (with three heads), which he claimed had been given him by the king of the Bhota (Tibetans) who, in turn had obtained it from Kailāśa.”
A chronicle of Ladakh compiled in the 17th century called the La dvags royal rabs, meaning the Royal Chronicle of the Kings of Ladakh recorded that this boundary was traditional and well-known. The first part of the Chronicle was written in the years 1610–1640 and the second half towards the end of the 17th century. The work has been translated into English by AH Francke and published in 1926 in Calcutta titled “The Antiquities of Indian Tibet”. In volume 2, the Ladakhi Chronicle describes the partition by King Skyid-lde-ngima-gon of his kingdom between his three sons, and then the chronicle described the extent of territory secured by that son. The following quotation is from page 94 of this book: “He gave to each of his sons a separate kingdom: to the eldest Dpal-gyi-gon, Maryul of Mngah-ris, the inhabitants using black bows; Ru-thogs of the east and the goldmine of Hgog; nearer this way Lde-mchog-dkar-po; at the frontier Ra-ba-dmar-po; Wam-le, to the top of the pass of the Yi-mig rock.” It is evident that Rudok was an integral part of Ladakh. Even after the family partition, Rudok continued to be part of Ladakh. Maryul meaning lowlands was a name given to a part of Ladakh. Even at that time(in the 10th century), Rudok was an integral part of Ladakh and Lde-mchog-dkar-po (Demchok) was an integral part of Ladakh.
Faced with the Islamic conquest of South Asia in the 13th century, Ladakh chose to seek and accept guidance in religious matters from Tibet. For nearly two centuries until about 1600, Ladakh was subject to raids and invasions from neighboring Muslim states. Some of the Ladakhis converted to Islam during this period. Between the 1380s and early 1510s, many Islamic missionaries propagated Islam and proselytized the Ladakhi people. Important Sufi missionaries propagated Islam to the locals; Mir Sayyid Ali was the first one to make Muslim converts in Ladakh and is often described as the founder of Islam in Ladakh. Several mosques were built in Ladakh during this period, including in Mulbhe, Padum and Shey, the capital of Ladakh. His principal disciple, Sayyid Muhammad Nur Baksh also propagated Islam to Ladakhis and the Balti people rapidly converted to Islam. Noorbakshia Islam is named after him and his followers are only found in Baltistan and Ladakh. During his youth, Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin expelled the mystic Sheikh Zain Shahwalli for showing disrespect to him. The sheikh then went to Ladakh and proselytized many people to Islam. In 1505, Shamsuddin Iraqi, a noted Shia scholar, visited Kashmir and Baltistan. He helped in spreading Shia Islam in Kashmir and converted the overwhelming majority of Muslims in Baltistan to his school of thought. It is unclear what happened to Islam after this period and it seems to have received a setback. Mirza Muhammad Haidar Dughlat who invaded and briefly conquered Ladakh in 1532, 1545 and 1548, does not record any presence of Islam in Leh during his invasion although Shia Islam and Noorbakshia Islam continued to flourish in other regions of Ladakh.”
Thikse Monastery, Ladakh
“King Bhagan reunited and strengthened Ladakh and founded the Namgyal dynasty (Namgyal means “victorious” in several Tibetan languages) which survives to today. The Namgyals repelled most Central Asian raiders and temporarily extended the kingdom as far as Nepal. During the Balti invasion led by Raja Ali Sher Khan Anchan, many Buddhist temples and artifacts were damaged. According to some accounts after the Namgyals were defeated, Jamyang gave his daughter’s hand in marriage to the victorious Ali. Ali took the king and his soldiers as captives. Jamyang was later restored to the throne by Ali and was then given the hand of a Muslim princess in marriage whose name was Gyal Khatun or Argyal Khatoom upon the condition that she would be the first queen and her son will become the next ruler. Historical accounts differ upon who her father was. Some identify Ali’s ally and Raja of Khaplu Yabgo Shey Gilazi as her father, while others identify Ali himself as the father. In the early 17th century efforts were made to restore destroyed artifacts and gonpas by Sengge Namgyal, the son of Jamyang and Gyal and the kingdom expanded into Zangskar and Spiti. However, despite a defeat of Ladakh by the Mughals, who had already annexed Kashmir and Baltistan, it retained its independence.
It appears that the Balti conquest of Ladakh took place in about 1594 AD which was the era of Namgyal dynasty by Balti king Ali Sher Khan Anchan. Legends show that the Balti army, obsessed with success, advanced as far as Purang, in the valley of Mansarwar Lake, and won the admiration of their enemies and friends. The Raja of Ladakh sued for peace and, since Ali Sher Khan’s intention was not to annex Ladakh, he agreed subject to the condition that the village of Ganokh and Gagra Nullah should be ceded to Skardu and he (the Ladakhi Raja) should pay annual tribute. This tribute was paid through the Gonpa (monastery) of Lama Yuru till the Dogra conquest of Ladakh. Hashmatullah records that the Head Lama of the said Gonpa had admitted before him the payment of yearly tribute to Skardu Darbar till the Dogra conquest of Ladakh.
Islam begin to take root in the Leh area in the beginning of the 17th century after the Balti invasion and the marriage of Gyal to Jamyang. A large group of Muslim servants and musicians were sent along with Gyal to Ladakh and private mosques were built where they could pray. The Muslim musicians later settled in Leh. Several hundred Baltis migrated to the kingdom and according to oral tradition many Muslim traders were granted land to settle. Many other Muslims were invited over the following years for various purposes.
In the late 17th century, Ladakh sided with Bhutan in its dispute with Tibet which, among other reasons, resulted in its invasion by the Tibetan Central Government. This event is known as the Tibet-Ladakh-Mughal war of 1679-1684. Kashmiri historians assert that the king converted to Islam in return for the assistance by Mughal Empire after this, however Ladakhi chronicles do not mention such a thing. The king agreed to pay tribute to the Mughals in return for defending the kingdom. The Mughals however withdrew after being paid off by the 5th Dalai Lama. With the help of reinforcements from Galdan Boshugtu Khan, Khan of the Zungar Empire, the Tibetans attacked again in 1684. The Tibetans were victorious and concluded a treaty with Ladakh, and then retreated back to Lhasa in December 1684. The Treaty of Tingmosgang in 1684 settled the dispute between Tibet and Ladakh but severely restricted Ladakh’s independence. In 1834, the Dogra Zorawar Singh, a general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, invaded and annexed Ladakh to the Sikh Empire. After the defeat of the Sikhs in the Second Anglo-Sikh War, the province of Jammu & Kashmir was transferred to Gulab Singh, to be ruled under British suzerainty as a princely state. A Ladakhi rebellion in 1842 was crushed and Ladakh was incorporated into the Dogra state of Jammu & Kashmir. The Namgyal family was given the jagir of Stok, which it nominally retains to this day. European influence began in Ladakh in the 1850s and increased. Geologists, sportsmen and tourists began exploring Ladakh. In 1885, Leh became the headquarters of a mission of the Moravian Church.
Ladakh was claimed as part of Tibet by Phuntsok Wangyal, a Tibetan Communist leader. At the time of the partition of India in 1947, the Dogra ruler Maharaja Hari Singh signed the Instrument of Accession to India. Pakistani raiders had reached Ladakh and military operations were initiated to evict them. The wartime conversion of the pony trail from Sonamarg to Zoji La by army engineers permitted tanks to move up and successfully capture the pass. The advance continued. Dras, Kargil and Leh were liberated and Ladakh cleared of the infiltrators.
In 1949, China closed the border between Nubra and Xinjiang, blocking old trade routes. In 1955 China began to build roads connecting Xinjiang and Tibet through this area. It also built the Karakoram highway jointly with Pakistan. India built the Srinagar-Leh Highway during this period, cutting the journey time between Srinagar and Leh from 16 days to 2. The route, however, remains closed during the winter months due to heavy snowfall. Construction of a 6.5km tunnel across Zoji La pass (was recently constructed) to make the route functional throughout the year. The entire state of Jammu & Kashmir continues to be the subject of a territorial dispute between India, Pakistan and China. The Kargil War of 1999, codenamed “Operation Vijay” by the Indian Army, saw infiltration by Pakistani troops into parts of Western Ladakh, namely Kargil, Dras, Mushkoh, Batalik and Chorbatla, overlooking key locations on the Srinagar-Leh highway. Extensive operations were launched in high altitudes by the Indian Army with considerable artillery and air force support. Pakistani troops were evicted from the Indian side of the Line of Control which the Indian government ordered was to be respected and which was not crossed by Indian troops. The Indian government was criticized by the Indian public because India respected geographical co-ordinates more than India’s opponents: Pakistan and China.
In 1984 the Siachen Glacier area in the northernmost corner of Ladakh became the venue of a continuing military standoff between India and Pakistan in the highest battleground in the world. The boundary here was not demarcated in the 1972 Simla Agreement beyond a point named NJ9842. In 1984 India occupied the entire Siachen Glacier and by 1987 the heights of the Saltoro Ridge which borders the glacier to the west, with Pakistan troops in the glacial valleys and on the ridges just west of the Saltoro Ridge crest. This status has remained much the same since, and a ceasefire was established in 2003.
The Ladakh region was bifurcated into the Kargil and Leh districts in 1979. In 1989, there were violent riots between Buddhists and Muslims. Following demands for autonomy from the Kashmiri dominated state government, the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council was created in the 1990s. Leh and Kargil Districts now each have their own locally elected Hill Councils with some control over local policy and development funds. In 1991, a Peace Pagoda was erected in Leh by Nipponzan Myohoji.
There is a heavy presence of Indian Army and Indo-Tibetan Border Police forces in Ladakh. These forces and People’s Liberation Army forces from China have, since the 1962 Sino-Indian War, had frequent stand-offs along the Lakakh portion of the Line of Actual Control. The stand-off involving the most troops was in September 2014 in the disputed Chumar region when 800 to 1000 Indian troops and 1500 Chinese troops came into close proximity to each other.”
Geography of Ladakh
“Ladakh is the highest plateau in the state of Jammu & Kashmir with much of it being over 3000m (9800′). It extends from the Himalayan to the Kunlun Ranges and includes the upper Indus River valley. Historically, the region included the Baltistan (Baltiyul) valleys (now mostly in Pakistani administered part of Kashmir), the entire upper Indus Valley, the remote Zanskar, Lahaul and Spiti to the south, much of Ngari including the Rudok region and Guge in the east, Aksai Chin in the northeast, and the Nubra Valley to the north over Khardong La in the Ladakh Range. Contemporary Ladakh borders Tibet to the east, the Lahaul and Spiti regions to the south, the Vale of Kashmir, Jammu and Baltiyul regions to the west, and the southwest corner of Xinjiang across the Karakoram Pass in the far north. The historic but imprecise divide between Ladakh and the Tibetan Plateau commences in the north in the intricate maze of ridges east of Rudok including Aling Kangri and Mavang Kangri, and continues southeastward toward northwestern Nepal. Before partition, Baltistan, now under Pakistani control, was a district in Ladakh. Skardu was the winter capital of Ladakh, while Leh was the summer capital.
The mountain ranges in this region were formed over 45 million years by the folding of the Indian plate into the more stationary Eurasian Plate. The drift continues, causing frequent earthquakes in the Himalayan region. The peaks in the Ladakh Range are at a medium altitude close to the Zoji La (5000–5500m or 16,000–18,050′) and increase toward southeast, culminating in the twin summits of Nun & Kun (7000m or 23,000′).
The Suru and Zanskar valleys form a great trough enclosed by the Himalayas and the Zanskar Range. Rangdum is the highest inhabited region in the Suru valley, after which the valley rises to 4400m (14,400′) at Pensi La, the gateway to Zanskar. Kargil, the only town in the Suru valley, is the second most important town in Ladakh. It was an important staging post on the routes of the trade caravans before 1947, being more or less equidistant, at about 230 km from Srinagar, Leh, Skardu and Padum. The Zanskar valley lies in the troughs of the Stod and the Lungnak Rivers. The region experiences heavy snowfall; the Pensi La is open only between June and mid-October. Dras and the Mushkoh Valley form the western extremity of Ladakh.
The Indus River is the backbone of Ladakh. Most major historical and current towns – Shey, Leh, Basgo and Tingmosgang (but not Kargil) – are close to the Indus River. After the Indo-Pakistani War of 1947, the stretch of the Indus flowing through Ladakh became the only part of this river, which is greatly venerated in the Hindu religion and culture, that still flows through India.
The Siachen Glacier is in the eastern Karakoram Range in the Himalaya Mountains along the disputed India-Pakistan border. The Karakoram Range forms a great watershed that separates China from the Indian subcontinent and is sometimes called the “Third Pole.” The glacier lies between the Saltoro Ridge immediately to the west and the main Karakoram Range to the east. At 76km long, it is the longest glacier in the Karakoram and second-longest in the world’s non-polar areas. It falls from an altitude of 5753m (18,875′) above sea level at its source at Indira Col on the China border down to 3620m (11,880′) at its snout. Saser Kangri is the highest peak in the Saser Muztagh, the easternmost subrange of the Karakoram Range in India, Saser Kangri I having an altitude of 7672m (25,171′).”
Monthly Average Temperature in Leh
“The Ladakh Range has no major peaks; its average height is a little less than 6000m (20,000′), and few of its passes are less than 5000m (16,000′). The Pangong Range runs parallel to the Ladakh Range for about 100 km northwest from Chushul along the southern shore of the Pangong Lake. Its highest point is about 6,700m (22,000 ft) and the northern slopes are heavily glaciated. The region comprising the valley of the Shayok and Nubra rivers is known as Nubra. The Karakoram Range in Ladakh is not as mighty as in Baltistan. The massifs to the north and east of the Nubra–Siachen line include the Apsarasas Group (highest point 7245m; 23,770′) the Rimo Muztagh (highest point 7385m; 24,229′) and the Teram Kangri Group (highest point 7464m; 24,488′) together with Mamostong Kangri (7526m; 24,692′) and Singhi Kangri (7202m; 23,629′). North of the Karakoram lies the Kunlun. Thus, between Leh and eastern Central Asia there is a triple barrier — the Ladakh Range, Karakoram Range, and Kunlun. Nevertheless, a major trade route was established between Leh and Yarkand.
Ladakh is a high-altitude desert as the Himalayas create a rain shadow, generally denying entry to monsoon clouds. The main source of water is the winter snowfall on the mountains. Recent flooding in the region (e.g., the 2010 floods) has been attributed to abnormal rain patterns and retreating glaciers, both of which have been found to be linked to global climate change. The Leh Nutrition Project, headed by Chewang Norphel, also known as the “Glacier Man”, creates artificial glaciers as one solution for retreating glaciers.
The regions on the north flank of the Himalayas – Dras, the Suru Valley and Zanskar – experience heavy snowfall and remain cut off from the rest of the region for several months in the year, as the whole region remains cut off by road from the rest of the country. Summers are short, though they are long enough to grow crops. The summer weather is dry and pleasant. Temperature ranges are from 3 to 35 °C in summer and minimums range from -20 to -35 °C in winter.
The Zanskar River is the main river of the region along with its tributaries. The Zanskar River becomes frozen during the winter, and the famous Chadar trek takes place on this magnificent frozen river.”
Fauna & Flora of Ladakh
“Vegetation is extremely sparse in Ladakh except along streambeds and wetlands, on high slopes, and in irrigated places. The first European to study the wildlife of this region was Ferdinand Stoliczka, an Austrian-Czech paleontologist who carried out a massive expedition there in the 1870s.
The fauna of Ladakh has much in common with that of Central Asia in general and that of the Tibetan Plateau in particular. Exceptions to this are the birds, many of which migrate from the warmer parts of India to spend the summer in Ladakh. For such an arid area, Ladakh has a great diversity of birds — a total of 225 species have been recorded. Many species of finches, robins, redstarts (like the black redstart), and the hoopoe are common in summer. The brown-headed gull is seen in summer on the Indus and on some lakes of the Changthang. Resident water-birds include the brahminy duck, also known as the ruddy sheldrake, and the bar-headed goose. The black-necked crane, a rare species found scattered in the Tibetan plateau, is also found in parts of Ladakh. Other birds include the raven, Eurasian magpie, red-billed chough, Tibetan snowcock, and chukar. The lammergeier, Himalayan griffin and the golden eagle are common raptors here, especially in Changthang region.
The endangered black-necked crane, Grus nigricollis, breeds in Ladakh. It is the state bird of Jammu & Kashmir. The bharal or blue sheep is the most abundant mountain ungulate in the Ladakh region, although it is not found in some parts of Zangskar and Sham areas. The Asiatic ibex is a very elegant mountain goat that is distributed in the western part of Ladakh. It is the second most abundant mountain ungulate in the region with a population of about 6000 individuals. It is adapted to rugged areas where it easily climbs when threatened. The Ladakhi Urial is another unique mountain sheep that inhabits the mountains of Ladakh. The population is declining, however, and there are not more than 3000 individuals left in Ladakh. The urial is endemic to Ladakh, where it is distributed only along two major river valleys: the Indus and Shayok. The animal is often persecuted by farmers whose crops are allegedly damaged by it. Its population declined precipitously in the last century due to indiscriminate shooting by hunters along the Leh-Srinagar highway. The Tibetan argali or nyan is the largest wild sheep in the world, standing 3.5 to 4 feet at the shoulder with the horn measuring 90–100 cm. It is distributed on the Tibetan plateau and its marginal mountains encompassing a total area of 2.5 million km2. There is only a small population of about 400 animals in Ladakh. The argali prefers open and rolling terrain as it runs, unlike wild goats that climb into steep cliffs, to escape from predators. The endangered Tibetan antelope, known as chiru in Indian English, or Ladakhi tsos, has traditionally been hunted for its wool (shahtoosh) which is a natural fiber of the finest quality and thus valued for its light weight and warmth and as a status symbol. The wool of chiru must be pulled out by hand, a process done after the animal is killed. The fiber is smuggled into Kashmir and woven into exquisite shawls by Kashmiri workers. Ladakh is also home to the Tibetan gazelle, which inhabits the vast rangelands in eastern Ladakh bordering Tibet.”
Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass)
“The kiang, or Tibetan wild ass, is common in the grasslands of Changthang, numbering about 2,500 individuals. These animals are in conflict with the nomadic people of Changthang who hold the kiang responsible for pasture degradation. There are about 200 snow leopards in Ladakh of an estimated 7,000 worldwide. The Hemis High Altitude National Park in central Ladakh is an especially good habitat for this predator as it has abundant prey populations. The Eurasian lynx, is another rare cat that preys on smaller herbivores in Ladakh. It is mostly found in Nubra, Changthang and Zanskar. The Pallas’s cat, which looks somewhat like a house cat, is very rare in Ladakh and not much is known about the species. The Tibetan wolf, which sometimes preys on the livestock of the Ladakhis, is the most persecuted amongst the predators. There are also a few brown bears in the Suru valley and the area around Dras. The Tibetan sand fox has been discovered in this region. Among smaller animals, marmots, hares, and several types of pika and vole are common.
Scant precipitation makes Ladakh a high-altitude desert with extremely scarce vegetation over most of its area. Natural vegetation mainly occurs along water courses and on high altitude areas that receive more snow and cooler summer temperatures. Human settlements, however, are richly vegetated due to irrigation. Natural vegetation commonly seen along water courses includes seabuckthorn, wild roses of pink or yellow varieties, tamarisk, caraway, stinging nettles, mint, Physochlaina praealta, and various grasses. Natural vegetation in unirrigated desert around Leh includes capers (Capparis spinosa), Nepeta floccosa, globe thistle (Echinops cornigerus), Ephedra gerardiana, rhubarb, Tanacetum spp., several artemisias, Peganum harmala, and several other succulents. Juniper trees grow wild in some locations and are usually considered sacred by Buddhists.
Human settlements are marked by lush fields and trees, all irrigated with water from glacial streams, springs, and rivers. Higher altitude villages grow barley, peas, and vegetables, and have one species of willow (called drokchang in Ladakhi). Lower villages also grow wheat, alfalfa, mustard for oil, grapes, and a greater variety of vegetables. Cultivated trees in lower villages include apricots, apples, mulberries, walnuts, balsam poplars, Afghan poplars, oleaster (Elaeagnus angustifolia), and several species of willow (difficult to identify, and local names vary). Elms and white poplars are found in the Nubra Valley, and one legendary specimen of white poplar grows in Alchi in the Indus Valley. Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia), Himalayan cypress and horse chestnut have been introduced since the 1990s.”
Government & Politics of Ladakh
“Ladakh district was a district of the Jammu & Kashmir state of India until 1 July 1979 when it was divided into Leh district and Kargil district. Each of these districts is governed by a Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council, which is based on the pattern of the Darjeeling Gorkha Autonomous Hill Council. These councils were created as a compromise solution to the demands of Ladakhi people to make Leh a union territory.
In October 1993, the Indian government and the State government agreed to grant each district of Ladakh the status of Autonomous Hill Council. This agreement was given effect by the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council Act, 1995. The council came into being with the holding of elections in Leh District on 28 August 1995. The inaugural meeting of the council was held at Leh on 3 September 1995. Kargil, later, adopted the Hill council in July 2003, when the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council — Kargil was established. The council works with village panchayats to take decisions on economic development, healthcare, education, land use, taxation, and local governance which are further reviewed at the block headquarters in the presence of the chief executive councilor and executive councilors. The government of Jammu and Kashmir looks after law and order, the judicial system, communications and the higher education in the region.”
Economy of Ladakh
“The land is irrigated by a system of channels which funnel water from the ice and snow of the mountains. The principal crops are barley and wheat. Rice was previously a luxury in the Ladakhi diet, but, subsidized by the government, has now become a cheap staple. Naked barley (Ladakhi: nas, Urdu: grim) was traditionally a staple crop all over Ladakh. Growing times vary considerably with altitude. The extreme limit of cultivation is at Korzok, on Tsomoriri Lake, at 4,600m (15,100 ft), widely considered to be the highest fields in the world.
A minority of Ladakhi people were also employed as merchants and caravan traders, facilitating trade in textiles, carpets, dyestuffs and narcotics between Punjab and Xinjiang. However, since the Chinese Government closed the borders with Tibet and Central Asia, this international trade has completely dried up. Since 1974, the Indian Government has encouraged a shift in trekking and other tourist activities from the troubled Kashmir region to the relatively unaffected areas of Ladakh. Although tourism employs only 4% of Ladakh’s working population, it now accounts for 50% of the region’s GNP.”
Transport in Ladakh
“Ladakh was the connection point between Central Asia and South Asia when the Silk Road was in use. The 60-day journey on the Ladakh route connecting Amritsar and Yarkand through 11 passes was frequently undertaken by traders till the third quarter of the 19th century. Another common route in regular use was the Kalimpong route between Leh and Lhasa via Gartok, the administrative center of western Tibet. Gartok could be reached either straight up the Indus in winter or through either the Taglang La or the Chang La. Beyond Gartok, the Cherko La brought travelers to the Manasarovar and Rakshastal Lakes, and then to Barka, which is connected to the main Lhasa road. These traditional routes have been closed since the Ladakh-Tibet border was sealed by the Chinese government. Other routes connected Ladakh to Hunza and Chitral but, as in the previous case, there is no border crossing between Ladakh and Pakistan.
In present times, the only two land routes to Ladakh in use are from Srinagar and Manali. Travelers from Srinagar start their journey from Sonamarg, over the Zoji La pass (3,450m; 11,320 ft) via Dras and Kargil (2,750m; 9,020 ft) passing through Namika La (3,700m; 12,100 ft) and Fatu la (4,100m; 13,500 ft). This has been the main traditional gateway to Ladakh since historical times and is now open to traffic from April or May until November or December every year. The newer route is the high altitude Manali-Leh Highway from Himachal Pradesh. The highway crosses 4 passes (Rohtang la (3,978m; 13,051 ft), Baralacha La (4,892m; 16,050 ft), Lungalacha La (5,059m; 16,598 ft) and Taglang La (5325m, 17,470′) and the More Plains, and is open only between May and November when snow is cleared from the road.”
Demographics of Ladakh
“People of Dard descent predominate in Dras and Dha-Hanu areas. The residents of the Dha-Hanu area, known as Brokpa, are followers of Tibetan Buddhism and have preserved much of their original Dardic traditions and customs. The Dards of Dras, however, have converted to Islam and have been strongly influenced by their Kashmiri neighbors. The Mons are believed to be descendants of earlier Indian settlers in Ladakh, and traditionally worked as musicians, blacksmiths and carpenters. The region’s population is split roughly in half between the districts of Leh and Kargil. 76.87% population of Kargil is Muslim, with a total population of 140,802, while that of Leh is 66.40% Buddhist, with a total population of 133,487, as per the 2011 census.
The principal language of Ladakh is Ladakhi, a Tibetan language. Educated Ladakhis usually know Hindi, Urdu and often English. Within Ladakh, there is a range of dialects, so that the language of the Chang-pa people may differ markedly from that of the Purig-pa in Kargil, or the Zanskaris, but they are all mutually comprehensible. Due to its position on important trade routes, the language of Leh is enriched with foreign words. Traditionally, Ladakhi had no written form distinct from classical Tibetan, but a number of Ladakhi writers have started using the Tibetan script to write the colloquial tongue. Administrative work and education are carried out in English; although Urdu was used to a great extent in the past, now only land records and some police records are kept in Urdu.”
Cuisine of Ladakh
“Ladakhi food has much in common with Tibetan food, the most prominent foods being thukpa (noodle soup) and tsampa, known in Ladakhi as ngampe (roasted barley flour). Edible without cooking, tsampa makes useful trekking food. A dish that is strictly Ladakhi is skyu, a heavy pasta dish with root vegetables. As Ladakh moves toward a cash-based economy, foods from the plains of India are becoming more common. As in other parts of Central Asia, tea in Ladakh is traditionally made with strong green tea, butter, and salt. It is mixed in a large churn and known as gurgur cha, after the sound it makes when mixed. Sweet tea (cha ngarmo) is common now, made in the Indian style with milk and sugar. Most of the surplus barley that is produced is fermented into chang, an alcoholic beverage drunk especially on festive occasions.”
Music & Dance of Ladakh
“Traditional music includes the instruments surna and daman (shenai and drum). The music of Ladakhi Buddhist monastic festivals, like Tibetan music, often involves religious chanting in Tibetan as an integral part of the religion. These chants are complex, often recitations of sacred texts or in celebration of various festivals. Yang chanting, performed without metrical timing, is accompanied by resonant drums and low, sustained syllables. Religious mask dances are an important part of Ladakh’s cultural life. Hemis Monastery, a leading center of the Drukpa tradition of Buddhism, holds an annual masked dance festival, as do all major Ladakhi monasteries. The dances typically narrate a story of the fight between good and evil, ending with the eventual victory of the former. Weaving is an important part of traditional life in eastern Ladakh. Both women and men weave, on different looms. Typical costumes include gonchas of velvet, elaborately embroidered waistcoats and boots and hats.”
Sports of Ladakh
“The most popular sport in Ladakh is ice hockey, which is played only on natural ice generally mid-December through mid-February. Cricket is very popular. Archery is a traditional sport in Ladakh, and many villages hold archery festivals, which are as much about traditional dancing, drinking and gambling as about the sport. The sport is conducted with strict etiquette, to the accompaniment of the music of surna and daman (shehnai and drum). Polo, the other traditional sport of Ladakh is indigenous to Baltistan and Gilgit, and was probably introduced into Ladakh in the mid-17th century by King Singge Namgyal, whose mother was a Balti princess. Polo, popular among the Baltis with some support from financial heavyweights, is an annual affair in Drass region of District Kargil.”
Social Status of Women in Ladakh
“A feature of Ladakhi society that distinguishes it from the rest of the state is the high status and relative emancipation enjoyed by women compared to other rural parts of India. Fraternal polyandry and inheritance by primogeniture were common in Ladakh until the early 1940s when these were made illegal by the government of Jammu & Kashmir. However, the practice remained in existence into the 1990s especially among the elderly and the more isolated rural populations (and still exists with the nomads). Another custom is known as khang-bu, or ‘little house’, in which the elders of a family, as soon as the eldest son has sufficiently matured, retire from participation in affairs, yielding the headship of the family to him and taking only enough of the property for their own sustenance. The society is also both maternal and paternal, the tradition of where the groom comes to stay with the bride’s family is not considered a taboo unlike the rest of India. Women enjoy a very high status in society, however, female participation in the politics of the region remains limited.”
Traditional Medicine of Ladakh
“Tibetan medicine has been the traditional health system of Ladakh for over a thousand years. This school of traditional healing contains elements of Ayurveda and Chinese medicine, combined with the philosophy and cosmology of Tibetan Buddhism. For centuries, the only medical system accessible to the people have been the amchi — traditional doctors following the Tibetan medical tradition. Amchi medicine is an important component of public health to this day, especially in remote areas.
Programs by the government, local and international organizations are working to develop and rejuvenate this traditional system of healing. Efforts are underway to preserve the intellectual property rights of amchi medicine for the people of Ladakh. The government has also been trying to promote the sea buckthorn in the form of juice and jam, as it is believed to possess many medicinal properties. This is seen as a means of providing employment to self-help groups in rural Ladakh.”
Education in Ladakh
“Traditionally there was little or nothing by way of formal education except in the monasteries. According to the 2001 census, the overall literacy rate in Leh District is 62% (72% for males and 50% for females), and in Kargil District 58% (74% for males and 41% for females). Traditionally there was little or nothing by way of formal education except in the monasteries. Usually, one son from every family was obliged to master the Tibetan script in order to read the holy books.
The Moravian Mission opened a school in Leh in October 1889, and the Wazir-i Wazarat (ex officio Joint Commissioner with a British officer) of Baltistan and Ladakh ordered that every family with more than one child should send one of them to school. This order met with great resistance from the local people who feared that the children would be forced to convert to Christianity. The school taught Tibetan, Urdu, English, Geography, Sciences, Nature study, Arithmetic, Geometry and Bible study. It is still in existence today. The first local school to provide western education was opened by a local Society called Lamdon Social Welfare Society in 1973. Later, with support from HH Dalai Lama and some international organizations, the school has grown to accommodate approximately two thousand pupils in several branches. It prides itself on preserving Ladakhi tradition and culture.
Schools are well distributed throughout Ladakh but 75% of them provide only primary education. 65% of children attend school, but absenteeism of both students and teachers remains high. In both districts the failure rate at school-leaving level (class X) has for many years been around 50%. Before 1993, students were taught in Urdu until they were 14, after which the medium of instruction shifted to English.
In 1994 the Students’ Educational and Cultural Movement of Ladakh (SECMOL) launched Operation New Hope (ONH), a campaign to provide “culturally appropriate and locally relevant education” and make government schools more functional and effective. Eliezer Joldan Memorial College, a government degree college enables students to pursue higher education without having to leave Ladakh.”
– All Excerpts from Wikipedia
Zanskar
“Zanskar appears as ‘Zangskar’ mostly in academic studies in social sciences (anthropology, gender studies), reflecting the Ladakhi pronunciation, although the Zanskari pronunciation is Zãhar. Older geographical accounts and maps may use the alternate spelling “Zaskar”. An etymological study of the name reveals that its origin might refer to the natural occurrence of copper in this region, the Tibetan word for which is “Zangs”. The second syllable however seems to be more challenging as it has various meanings: “Zangs-dkar” (white copper), “Zangs-mkhar” (copper palace), or “Zangs-skar” (copper star). Others claim it derives from zan = copper + skar = valley … the origin of this name might also be “Zan-mKhar” (food palace), because the staple food crops are so abundant in an otherwise rather arid region. The locally accepted spelling of the name in Tibetan script is zangs-dkar.
Some of the religious scholars of the district, also cited by Snellgrove and Skorupsky (1980) and Crook (1994), hold that it was originally “bzang-dkar”, meaning good (or beautiful) and white. “Good” would refer to the triangular shape of the Padum plain, the triangle being the symbol of Dharma and religion; “white” would refer to the simplicity, goodness, and religious inclinations of the Zanskaris. Thus, even if etymologically it would be more correct to use “Zangskar”, the most frequently found spelling for this region is undoubtedly “Zanskar”.”
History of Zanskar
“The first traces of human activity in Zanskar seem to go back as far as the Bronze Age. Petroglyphs attributed to that period suggest that their creators were hunters on the steppes of central Asia, living between Kazakhstan and China. It is suspected that an Indo-European population known as the Mon might then have lived in this region, before mixing with or being replaced by the next settlers, the Dards. Early Buddhism coming from Kashmir spread its influence in Zanskar, possibly as early as 200 BC. The earliest monuments date from the Kushan period. After this eastward propagation of Buddhism, Zanskar and large parts of the Western Himalaya were overrun in the 7th century by the Tibetans, who imposed their then animistic Bön religion.
The Zanskar Range is a mountain range in the union territory of Ladakh that separates Zanskar from Ladakh itself. Geologically, the Zanskar Range is part of the Tethys Himalaya, an approximately 100-km-wide synclinorium formed by strongly folded and imbricated, weakly metamorphosed sedimentary series. The average height of the Zanskar Range is about 6,000m.”
Phugtal Monastery (South East Zanskar)
“Buddhism regained its influence over Zanskar in the 8th century when Tibet was also converted to this religion. Between the 10th and 11th centuries, two royal houses were founded in Zanskar, and the monasteries of Karsha and Phugtal were built. Until the 15th century Zanskar existed as a more or less independent Buddhist Kingdom ruled by between two and four related royal families. Since the 15th century, Zanskar has been subordinate to Ladakh, sharing its fortunes and misfortunes. In 1822 a coalition of Kulu, Lahoul, and Kinnaur invaded Zanskar, plundering the country and destroying the Royal palace at Padum.
In the mid-20th century, border conflicts between India, Pakistan and China caused Ladakh and Zanskar to be closed to foreigners. During these wars Ladakh lost two thirds of its original territory, losing Baltistan to Pakistan and the Aksai Chin to China. Ladakh and Zanskar, despite a tumultuous history of internal wars and external aggressions, have never lost their cultural and religious heritage since the 8th century. Thanks to its adherence to the Indian Union, this is also one of the rare regions in the Himalaya where traditional Tibetan culture, society, and buildings survived the Chinese Cultural Revolution. In the last twenty years, the opening of a road and the massive influx of tourists and researchers have brought many changes to the traditional social organization of Zanskar. In 2007 the valley suffered its third year of a desert locust infestation with many villages losing their crops. The response of the monasteries was to carry out a puja (prayer ceremony) to get rid of them while the government was advocating the use of insecticides which the Buddhists were reluctant to use, but in some cases were forced to try with as yet undocumented success. In 2008 it was reported that the Locusts had left the central Zanskar plains.”
Geography of Zanskar & Zanskar Mountain Range
“The Zanskar Range is spread over a vast area from southeastern boundaries of the state of Kashmir and extends in the northwest direction to the eastern limits of Baltistan. It separates Ladakh from the valleys of Kashmir and the Chenab River. In other words, it serves as a boundary line between Ladakh region of Kashmir and the remaining two regions of the state (Jammu and the Vale of Kashmir). The 23,000′ (7000m) high peaks Nun & Kun are within this range. Marbal Pass and many other passes which connect Ladakh with Kashmir are in this area, and the 13,000 feet (4000m) high Zoji La pass is in the extreme northwest of Zanskar range. This range, in fact is a branch of the Great Himalayan Range. Many rivers start in different branches of this range flow northward, and join the great Indus River. These rivers include Hanle River, Khurna River, Zanskar River, Suru River (Indus), and the Shingo River. It also separates Kinnaur from Spiti in Himachal Pradesh. The highest peaks of Himachal are in Zanskar range.
Zanskar covers an area of some 7000 square km at an elevation of 3500-7135m. It consists of the country lying along the two main branches of the Zanskar River. The first, the Doda River, has its source near the Pensi La at 4400m, and then flows south-eastwards along the main valley leading towards Padum, the capital of Zanskar.”
Nun & Kun Peaks
“Early exploration of the massif included a visit in 1898 and three visits by Arthur Neve, in 1902, 1904, and 1910. In 1903, Dutch mountaineer Dr. H. Sillem investigated the massif and discovered the high plateau between the peaks; he reached an altitude of 6,400 m (21,000 ft) on Nun. In 1906, noted explorer couple Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband William Hunter Workman, claimed an ascent of Pinnacle Peak. They also toured extensively through the massif and produced a map; however, controversy surrounded the Workmans’ claims, and few trigonometrical points were given for the region, so that the map they produced was not usable.
After unsuccessful attempts to climb the mountain in 1934, 1937, and 1946 the first ascent of Nun was in 1953 by a French-Swiss-Indian-Sherpateam led by Bernard Pierre and Pierre Vittoz, via the west ridge. The summit pair comprised Vittoz, a Moravian missionary to the Tibetans and an experienced alpinist, and Claude Kogan, a pioneering female mountaineer. Since then, other routes have been pioneered.The north-west face was first ascended on October 27. and 28., 1976 by seven climbers from a Czech expedition, led by F. Čejka. The first British ascent was made by Steve Berry and friends via the east ridge in 1981 (his father had attempted Nun in 1946).
Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza made the first ascent of Kun in 1913, via the north-east ridge. Fifty-eight years passed before the second recorded attempt on the peak, which resulted in a successful ascent by an expedition from the Indian Army.”
Shingo La Pass (Zanskar)
“The second branch is formed by two main tributaries known as Kargiak River, with its source near the Shingo La (5091m) and the Tsarap Chu (River), with its source near the Baralacha La. These two rivers unite below the village of Purne to form the Lungnak River (also known as the Lingti or Tsarap river). The Lungnak river then flows north-westwards along a narrow gorge towards Zanskar’s central valley (known locally as jung-khor), where it unites with the Doda river to form the Zanskar River.”
Zanskar River & the Indus
“The Zanskar River then takes a north-eastern course until it joins the Indus in Ladakh. High mountain ridges lie on both sides of the Doda and Lingti–Kargiak valleys, which run north-west to south-east. To the south-west is the Great Himalayan Range which separates Zanskar from the Kisthwar and Chamba basins. To the north-east lies the Zanskar Range, which separates Zanskar from Ladakh. The only outlet for the whole Zanskar hydrographic system is thus the Zanskar river, which cuts the deep and narrow Zanskar Gorge through the Zanskar range. The Zanskar range spans 640km from the Karcha (Suru) River to the upper Karnali River. Kamet Peak 7756m is the highest point in the range.
These topographical features explain why access to Zanskar is difficult from all sides. Communication with the neighboring Himalayan areas is maintained across mountain passes or along the Zanskar river when frozen. The easiest approach leads from Kargil through the Suru Valley and over the Pensi La. It is along this track that in 1979 the only road in Zanskar was built to connect Padum with the main road from Srinagar into Ladakh. One of the first Tibetologists to spend an extended period in the region was Hungarian scholar Sándor Csoma de Kőrös who spent over a year living in the region in 1823. After being integrated into the newly formed state of India in 1947, Zanskar and the neighboring region of Ladakh were both declared restricted areas and only opened to foreigners in 1974.”
Climate Condition of Zanskar
“Zanskar is a high altitude semi-desert lying on the northern flank of the Himalayan Range. This mountain range acts as a barrier protecting Ladakh and Zanskar from most of the monsoon, resulting in a pleasantly warm and dry climate in the summer. Rain and snowfall during this period are scarce, although recent decades have shown a trend towards increasing precipitation. Several water-driven mills were built during ancient periods of drought at a great distance from the villages, but have been abandoned because running water is now available nearer to the settlements. Zanskari houses, though otherwise well built, are not adapted to the recently increasing rainfall, as their roofs leak, catching their surprised inhabitants unprepared. Most of the precipitation occurs as snowfall during the harsh and extremely long winter period. These winter snowfalls are of vital importance, since they feed the glaciers which melt in the summer and provide most of the irrigation water. Parts of Zanskar valley are considered some of the coldest continually inhabited places in the world.”
Demography of Zanskar
“Zanskar’s population is small, the April 2006 medical census records a population of 13,849 people. Roughly 95% of the inhabitants practice Tibetan Buddhism, while the remainder are Sunni Muslims, whose ancestors settled in Padum and its environs in the 19th century. The majority of Zanskaris are of mixed Tibetan and Indo-European origins; notably Changpa, Dard and Mon. The latter are in fact ethnically Dard, but “Mon” is used in order to distinguish them from later Dard settlers.
The population lives mainly in scattered small villages, the largest being the capital Padum, with nearly 700 inhabitants. Most of the villages are located in the valleys of the Zanskar River and its two main tributaries. Given the isolation of this region, the inhabitants tend towards self-sufficiency, and until recently lived in almost complete autarky. External trade has, however, always been necessary for the acquisition of goods such as tools, jewelery, or religious artifacts.
The Zanskaris’ main occupations are cattle-rearing and farming of land that they almost always own. Cultivable land is scarce, and restricted to alluvial fans and terraces, cultivated fields being rarely found above an altitude of 4000m. The Zanskaris have developed a system of intensive arable agriculture and complex irrigation to produce enough food in these conditions. The scarcity of cultivable land has also resulted in a tendency towards a stable, zero-growth population. An efficient birth-control system in Zanskar has historically been achieved by the common practice of polyandrous marriage, in which several brothers are married to the same wife, and the widespread adoption of a celibate religious life. A high infant mortality rate also contributes to population stability.
In the summer, the women and children stay far away from the villages to tend to the livestock. This system, known as transhumance, is similar to the one found in the Alps where the animals are sent during the summer higher up in the mountains (the alpine meadows) and were kept by the children and women.”
– All Excerpts from Wikipedia
Nubra
Nubra Valley
The Nubra Valley is defined by the Shyok River, a tributary of the Indus, and the Nubra (or Siachen) River, the valley delineating the Ladakh and Karakoram ranges. The northern reaches of the Nubra Valley border Pakistan and the Siachan Glacier, both sensitive military regions often restricted to tourists. Nubra locals speak Balti (as well as Hindi), as do their neighbors in Baltistan, across the border in Pakistan. The Siachen Glacier is the second longest glacier in the world (with the exception of the polar regions), often referred to as the world’s highest and coldest battlefield, with battles over 6000 meters (which ceased after 2003).
Nubra was once an integral part of the fabled trans-Himalayan trade plied along the Silk Road for millenium, bringing great prosperity to this seemingly remote region. Caravans of camel, horse and yaks transported wool, cloth, opium, animal skins, exotic spices, dies such as indigo, and valuable stones such as turquoise, coral and of course gold. The route was treacherous, crossing high Himalayan passes connecting Leh and Yarkand until 1950 when the borders between China (Tibet) and India were sealed. The remnants of this once-important trade are the Bactrian camels, now used as vehicles to give tourists a taste of Central Asia with rides through the sand dunes between Diskit and Hunder. Nubra’s verdant groves of populars and apricots, and fields of billowing barley, all fed by the Shyok and Nubra Rivers, are an oasis in an otherwise stark environment, coloring the timeless Buddhist monasteries of Deskit, Chamba (Hunder), and Samstannling (Sumur) and Ensa, where the chanting, cymbals and horns of Buddhist monks during their morning pujas reverberate through the valley.
The people of Nubra are an interesting mix of the ethnically Tibetan Ladakhis, and Central Asian inhabitants, with blue or green eyes, fairer skin, sometimes freckles, lighter hair and more sculpted features. There are even rumors of a Greek tribe searching for the tomb of Jesus Christ in this region centuries ago, and eventually settled down in what is now known as Nubra. The locals also raise sheep and goats, as well as keeping the Bactrian camels.
Kashmir & Srinagar
Kashmir & Srinagar
The Vale of Kashmir is one of the most prized jewels of the Indian Himalaya, described by Kashmiris as ‘heaven on earth’, famed for its floating gardens and markets on Dal & Nageen Lakes, the fascinating historic Srinagar, the pashmina weaving and other Kashmiri crafts, its heavenly Mughal Gardens, the Shankaracharya Temple and its wonderful houseboat stays.
Around Srinagar there are some of the most beautiful valleys and villages in the Indian Himalaya, as well as some of the world’s most idyllic alpine scenery. Highlights are Dacigram National Park, Manasbal & Wular Lake (the largest lake in Asia), Yousmarg, Naranag Temple (the oldest in Kashmir), Sonmarg and Pahalgam.
We’ve put together several options to tour Srinagar, Kashmir, the famous lakes with their colorful floating markets and shikaras (long-tail boats), either flying in and out of Srinagar or opting for a stunningly beautiful jeep safari over the renown Koji La pass to Leh and Ladakh for a tour of the Indus Valley and its many Buddhist monasteries. We base our tours in Srinagar, where you stay in style on traditional houseboats on the lake, visit the floating market, old Srinagar and its many mosques and markets and the famous Mughal gardens.
See our Travel Books list for recommendations of books to read on this idyllic, but politically complicated, region of Muslims and Hindu Pandits, a region which wants to be free to choose its own destiny.
Great Stays
LADAKH | GREAT STAYS
We use Hotel Shaynam, Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Ladakh and Hotel Omasila as our arrival hotels, depending on availability, your budget and room preferences. We can also book any of the ‘Great Stays’ hotels for you if you’d like to treat yourself to a unique stay in Leh, or elsewhere in Ladakh. Our standard hotel is the Hotel Shaynam where Kim, Lhakpa and the Kamzang Journeys staff stay, a lovely family-run guest house with a blooming garden, deck chairs, tables and umbrellas. We don’t charge a single supplement at Hotel Shaynam, but we do charge single and upgrade supplements for Chospa, Omasila, Hotel Padma Ladakh (see Date & Price tab). Please specify your room preference when booking a trek. Breakfast included in all of the hotels.
Great Stays & Boutique-Luxury in Ladakh
We’re happy to book other hotels of your choice. Splash out on one of Leh’s most luxurious hotels! We will be happy to make any bookings needed …
Hotel Chospa
Hotel Chospa
“Hotel Chospa is a stunning retreat nestled in the heart of the vibrant city centre of Leh, located on the Old Leh Road. This enchanting abode has been curated to cater to the discerning explorer and those who appreciate the finer things in life. Chospa is the union of contemporary hospitality with the scenic and material biome of Ladakh. The architecture mirrors the traditional Ladakhi construction and materiality, rendering an ambience familiar to locals and unique for visitors.”
The Grand Dragon Ladakh
Grand Dragon Ladakh
“Established in 2007, The Grand Dragon Ladakh, one of the first 5 star hotels in Leh Ladakh, is owned and operated by the Abdu family from Leh, who have more than 40 years of experience welcoming visitors to the beautiful region. It is decorated magnificently with handmade paintings by Gulam Mustafa (the first modern artist of Ladakh) around every corner are reminiscent of royalty.”
Stok Palace Heritage Hotel
Stok Palace
“Occupying a high altar of reverence amongst the people of Ladakh, the Namgyal dynasty has resided in the Stok Palace for centuries now. Opened to the public in 1980 with the blessings of the Dalai Lama, Stok Palace today is a boutique and heritage hotel in Ladakh that encapsulates all that this mysterious and beautiful land is.”
Ladakh Sarai
Ladakh Sarai
“Ladakh Sarai started with an erstwhile adventure travel company, Tiger Tops in Stok which lies below the mighty Stok Kangri Range next to the Stok Palace.”
Chamba Camp
Chamba Camp
“Overlooking snow-capped mountains and Thiksey monastery, The Chamba Camp’s tents are superlative. With four poster beds, power showers, bespoke writing desks & private verandahs this is ‘glamping’ to the nth degree. The food is astounding: haute cuisine in high places.”
The Indus River Camp
Indus River Camp
“By day, explore the grounds, go on local hikes, visit surrounding monasteries and palaces, take in local culture or go rafting, trekking, cycling or motorbiking. Or pick a book from our well-curated library and read to the sound of flowing water. In the evening, we take guests for a riverside sunset walk, after which the milky way becomes visible with the naked eye. Sit out under the open sky by the warmth of an open fire and look out at the moon and its craters through our camp telescope.”
The Apricot Tree
The Apricot Tree
“In the most outstanding location, overlooking the flowing River Indus, Apricot Tree is a true escape. With intricate woodwork and ornate, colorful Buddhist paintings there is even a traditional Ladakhi kitchen where meals can be enjoyed. Rooms are large and bright and feature private balconies.”
Nimmu (45 minutes from Leh)
Nimmu House
Nimmu House
“Housed in a traditional Ladakhi stately home this property provides a choice between tented accommodation or rooms in the house. All are effortlessly chic combining modern muted palettes and traditional Ladakhi fabrics and textiles. The food is superb, both French and Ladakhi and all included.”
45 minutes from Leh
Saboo Resorts
Saboo Resorts
“Comprised of 15 traditional yet modern Ladakhi cottages, all with stunning mountain views. There is a restaurant serving Indian, Ladakhi and Tibetan dishes. Dining under the stars, next to the bonfire proves very popular. A perfect location for exploring the Ladakh valley”
Saboo, 30 minutes from Leh
The Unalome Resort (Diskit, Nubra)
The Unalome Resort
“The Unalome Resort is a tranquil and enchanting retreat nestled amidst the majestic landscapes of Diskit, Nubra Valley in Ladakh. Our resort offers a serene escape, allowing you to immerse yourself in the natural splendour and cultural richness of this captivating region.”
Lchang Nang Retreat (Sumur, Nubra)
Lchang Nang
“Lchang Nang retreat – The House of Trees is an eco-conscious luxury hotel and resort in Nubra Valley that celebrates local experiences, people, and culture. Located in the fabled Nubra Valley of Ladakh, on the banks of the Nubra River and on the last stop of the ancient Silk Route. The resort is the very example of a successful and sustainable eco-resort.”
Organic Boutique Hotel (Sumur, Nubra)
Organic Boutique Hotel
A beautiful hotel with large organic gardens, rooms with wooden decks or boutique tents in the willow-shaded alleys of lovely Hunder, in Nubra …
Nubra Eco Lodge (Sumur, Nubra)
Nubra Eco Lodge
“A family run ecotourism venture, located near Sumur sand dunes in the Nubra Valley. The landscape facing the confluence of Shyok and Nubra rivers is the natural habitat for seabuckthorn, wild flowers and desert wildlife. The 11 acre farm with our family home, has been planted with poplar, willow, apricot and apple trees, along with vegetable gardens. It commands a 360 degree view of the Karakoram mountains, the sand dunes and the nubra river.
A large open deck facing the valley near the vegetable garden is used as a lounge or for dining in fair weather. Ideal location to go for long walks along the Sumur sand dunes and the Nubra River. We recommend a minimum two days stay to enjoy the Nubra experience.”
Lotus Eco Resort (Sumur, Nubra)
Lotus Eco Resort
“Situated in the heart of Nubra Valley at a walking distance from the famous sand dunes. Lotus Eco Resort – The Mud House is spread in a sprawling green area of about 4 acres amidst Apricot, willow and poplar trees. Lotus Eco Resort – The Mud House has a well furnished 12 suites embedded with all the modern facilities and yet traditional in all ways, each of the suites is equipped with a beautiful fireplace and couches to sit around.”
Organic Boutique Resort (Hunder, Nubra)
Organic Boutique Resort
“A luxurious hotel which offers peaceful stay at a very attractive location near to nature”. And wonderful organic gardens, with a choice of rooms or semi-luxury tents …
Yourdum Guest House (Hundur, Nubra)
Yourdum Guest House
Pangong Sarai (Pangong Lake, Maan)
Pangong Sarai
“Just like the firefly looks for the undisturbed nature for its environment, Pangong Sarai turns into the home to the migrants in the disconnection. Pangong Tso lake is a surprising marvel in the mountains. The camps give a brave ordeal to the explorers. Climbing around the mountains, trekking and investigating the untouched land are the essentials of being here. We serve you with the flavors of Ladakh in the Pangong style to enrich you in the extreme.”
Spinney Cottage (Pangong Lake, Merak)
Spinney Cottage
“Nestled amidst the stunning landscape of Pangong Lake, our resort boasts 12 cozy wooden cottages, each offering a breathtaking view of the tranquil waters and majestic mountains.”
Ralpa Homestay (Pangong Lake, Merak)
Ralpa Homestay
“A serene retreat on the tranquil shores of Pangong Lake in Merak, Ladakh. Nestled amidst the breathtaking landscapes of the Himalayas, this cozy homestay provides guests with a blend of traditional Ladakhi hospitality and modern comforts. Visitors can enjoy stunning lake views, relish homemade Ladakhi cuisine, and experience the warmth of local culture in a peaceful and picturesque setting, making it an ideal escape for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.”
Sakti Villa (Sakti, Wari La Chemrey Valley)
Sakti Villa
Solpon Homestay (Sakti, Wari La Chemrey Valley)
Solpon Homestay
Holiday Inn (Hanle)
Holiday Inn Hanley
“Hotel Holiday Inn Hanley is located in historic Hanle village. It is the site of the 17th century Hanle Monastery (gompa) of the Drukpa Kagyu branch of Tibetan Buddhism. Hanle is located in the Hanle River valley on an old branch of the ancient Ladakh –Tibet trade route. More recently, Hanle is the home of Hanle observatory, one of the world’s highest sites for astronomical observation.”
Tsering Angmo (Leh): 6899581464
DELHI & RAJASTHAN | GREAT STAYS
There are many great stays in Delhi and Rajasthan; we’ve listed just a few …
Delhi & Rajasthan | 5-Star Hotels
If you want to treat yourself at a five-star hotel, book a room at The Imperial Hotel, the Taj Mahal or the Aman Resort before or after the trek. It’s a great way to wind down from travels or after a trek! All have spas, pools, gardens and many world-class cafes, restaurants and bars within the air conditioned complexes. Room rates vary considerably depending on the season.
The Imperial ($$$)
The Imperial
Taj Mahal Hotel ($$$$)
Taj Mahal
Aman Resorts ($$$$)
Aman Resorts
Delhi | Stylish Hotels
Easy choices …
Bloom Rooms ($$-$$$)
Bloom Rooms
Colonel’s Retreat ($$-$$$)
Colonel’s Retreat
Ahuja Residences ($$$)
Ahuja Residences
Lutyens Bungalow ($$)
Lutyens Bungalow
Delhi | Homestays
Homestays are increasingly becoming popular in Delhi. Search on-line for a good one; they usually provide breakfast, and dinner if requested.
Photos
KIM BANNISTER PHOTOGRAPHY | HIMALAYAN TREKS, CYCLE TRIPS & TRAVELS
Kim Bannister Photography
CYCLE THE HIMALAYA PHOTOS
Guided Cycling Trips
KAMZANG JOURNEYS | ALL ABOUT US IN PHOTOS
Explore Kamzang Journeys
KAMZANG JOURNEYS | YELLOW TENT PHOTOS
The Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness
HIMALAYAN WILDLIFE, BIRDS & FLOWERS PHOTOS
Himalayan Wildlife, Birds & Plants
HIMALAYAN DESIGN & CULTURAL PHOTOS
Himalayan Design & Cultural Photos
KAMZANG JOURNEYS GROUP PHOTOS
Kamzang Journeys Groups
KAMZANG JOURNEYS STAFF PHOTOS
Kamzang Journeys Staff
THE KAMZANG FUND & KAMZANG KIDS PHOTOS
The Kamzang Fund
NEPAL JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Nepal Journey
INDIA JOURNEY PHOTOS
India Journeys
TIBET JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Tibet Journeys
BHUTAN JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Bhutan Journeys
MYANMAR (BURMA) JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Myanmar (Burma) Photos
MONGOLIA JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Mongolia Journeys
SOUTHEAST ASIA PHOTOS
South East Asia Photos