The Wild Route & Bear Valley Camping Trek | Ladakh & Zanskar Traverse
(Nyeraks to Bear Valley, Remote Zangla & Shade River Valleys to Phuktal Gompa & Surichen La Pass)
Indian Himalaya Trek
+ Optional shorter trek options and Pangong Lake and Central Asian Nubra jeep safari extension! +
Another in our series of BEST OF Ladakh and Zanskar treks, created over 20 years of exploratory treks in the Indian Himalaya, featuring a crossing of the wild Phirtse La pass in Zanskar. This year we hope to cross the even higher Surichun La pass (5620m) from Kargiak, an exploratory section of this fabulous Himalayan trek. Our wild routes through the Indian Himalaya are adventurous, challenging Ladakh and Zanskar treks through sublime canyon lands, far-flung valleys with remote villages, high Himalayan passes, and hidden valleys of mythical Ladakh & Zanskar, a fabulous river route, sandals required!
Our epic trek begins in Ladakh, the land of high passes, at the idyllic villages of Photoskar, Yulchung and Nyeraks. Crossing high passes, fording rivers, and exploring the remote Bear Valley (a name we coined, and opened as a trekking route), we trek towards mythical Zanskar, a fantastic route through which other Westerners ever venture. Zanskar, the land of white copper, is a timeless Himalayan region tucked away between the Himalayan and Zanskar ranges, once part of an ancient trade network with Tibet. Once in secluded Shade, the most set-apart in Zanskar, we have an extra day to experience traditional village life before setting off on our next adventure.
Following the turquoise Tsarap Chu river, an exciting, slightly exposed canyon route to arrive at the iconic, ancient Phuktal Gompa, one of the most spectacularly set monasteries anywhere on the planet. We have trekked into the heartland of Zanskar; the traditional villages we encounter along the way a vision of days past in Tibet, a photographer’s dream. The campsites are idyllic as we cross the high Phirtse La (or Surichun La) pass to finish our wonderful journey.
We offer epic jeep safaris after our Ladakh trek. Relax on the shores of scenic, traditional Pangong Lake on the border of Tibet, and enjoy a visit to Central Asian Nubra valley; some of the most fascinating regions of the Indian Himalaya. Our sublimely beautiful, unforgettable Himalayan trek is a wonderful journey through the remote valleys of Ladakh, and Zanskar in ‘old Tibet’ is one of THE best Ladakh treks
Trek
The Wild Route & Bear Valley Camping Trek | Ladakh & Zanskar Traverse (Nyeraks to Bear Valley, Zangla & Shade River Valleys to Phuktal Gompa & Surichen La Pass) – Indian Himalaya Trekking
Day 1 – Wednesday, 13 August 2025 – Meet in Leh
Day 2 – Leh
Day 3 – Leh
Day 4 – Drive Photoksar View Camp | Cross Sirsir La 4825m
Day 5 – Drive Yulchung & Trek Nyeraks | Cross Bumiktse La 4400m, Singge La 4970m & Chocho Khuri La 3865m
Day 6 – Trek Nyeraks High Camp
Day 7 – Trek Bear Camp (Bear Valley) | Cross Takti La 4955m & OhShit La 4580m
Day 8 – Trek Karmafu (Bear Valley)
Day 9 – Trek Zangla Doksa River Camp | Cross Namtse La 4495m
Day 10 – Zangla Doksa River Camp | Optional Central Zanskar Monastery Jeep Safari
Day 11 – Trek Tzazar Doksa (Zangla Sumdo) Camp
Day 12 – Trek Pandang La High Camp
Day 13 – Trek Kharnak Sumdo River Camp | Cross Pandang La 5175mm
Day 14 – Trek Mitsik Doksa | Cross Cross Liyu La 4375m & Lar La 4690m
Day 15 – Trek Shade | Cross Rotang La 4890m
Day 16 – Trek Yatah
Day 17 – Trek Phuktal Gompa & Purne | Cross Phuktal La 4005m
Day 18 – Trek & Drive Kargiak | via Tangso & Skyng
Day 19 – Trek Surichun La High Camp
Day 20 – Trek Chumik Marpo | Cross Surichun La 5620m
Day 21 – Trek Berga Songchak
Day 22 – Trek Chumik Gyartse
Day 23 – Drive Leh | Cross (Jeep) Taglang La 5335m
Day 24 – Leh
Day 25 – Saturday, 6 September 2025 – Trip Ends | Transfer Airport
India Travel Notes
Our Ladakh and Zanskar treks start and finish in Leh, from where there are daily flights to and from Delhi. If you have successive international flights that are not all part of the same ticket or following domestic flights we suggest planning more cautiously and leaving an extra day in Leh after the trip.
We’re happy to help arrange excursions to Nubra, the nomadic Salt Lake region, Kashmir and Srinagar, or sightseeing in the Indus Valley if you have extra time!
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
Kamzang Journeys Ladakh Trekking Videos | Menno
Kamzang Journeys | Kharnak Nomads
Kamzang Journeys | Markha Valley
Kamzang Journeys | Changthang Nomads
Kamzang Journeys | Rupshu Nomads
Leh & Indus Valley
Kamzang Journeys Products
Duffel bags, t-shirts, camp towels, buffs, handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes + bags, Himalayan textile pillow covers + more available in Kathmandu!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop
Client Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments
Kamzang Journeys Menus
Camp Menus
Travel Advice
+ Travel medical insurance is required for the trek.
+ We recommend purchasing trip cancellation and travel insurance!
Short Trek
The Wild Route & Bear Valley Camping Trek Short | Ladakh & Zanskar (Suru Valley Jeep Safari) – Indian Himalaya Trekking
Day 1 – Wednesday, 13 August 2025 – Meet in Leh
Day 2 – Leh
Day 3 – Leh
Day 4 – Drive Photoksar View Camp | Cross Sirsir La 4825m
Day 5 – Drive Yulchung & Trek Nyeraks | Cross Bumiktse La 4400m, Singge La 4970m & Chocho Khuri La 3865m
Day 6 – Trek Nyeraks High Camp
Day 7 – Trek Bear Camp (Bear Valley) | Cross Takti La 4955m & OhShit La 4580m
Day 8 – Trek Karmafu (Bear Valley)
Day 9 – Trek Zangla Doksa River Camp | Cross Namtse La 4495m
Day 10 – Zangla Doksa River Camp | Optional Central Zanskar Monastery Jeep Safari
Day 11 – Trek Tzazar Doksa (Zangla Sumdo) Camp
Day 12 – Trek Pandang La High Camp
Day 13 – Trek Kharnak Sumdo River Camp | Cross Pandang La 5175mm
Day 14 – Trek Mitsik Doksa | Cross Cross Liyu La 4375m & Lar La 4690m
Day 15 – Trek Shade | Cross Rotang La 4890m
Day 16 – Trek Yatah
Day 17 – Trek Phuktal Gompa & Purne | Cross Phuktal La 4005m
Day 18 – Drive Photoksar (Homestay) | Visit Mune & Bardan Gompas
Day 19 – Drive Leh | Cross Sirsir La 4800m | Visit Wanla Fort & Alchi Gompa
Day 20 – Monday, 1 August 2025 – Trip Ends
India Travel Notes
Our Ladakh and Zanskar treks start and finish in Leh, from where there are daily flights to and from Delhi. If you have successive international flights that are not all part of the same ticket or following domestic flights we suggest planning more cautiously and leaving an extra day in Leh after the trip.
We’re happy to help arrange excursions to Nubra, the nomadic Salt Lake region, Kashmir and Srinagar, or sightseeing in the Indus Valley if you have extra time!
Travel Advice
+ Travel medical insurance is required for the trek.
+ We recommend purchasing trip cancellation and travel insurance!
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
Kamzang Journeys Ladakh Trekking Videos | Menno
Kamzang Journeys | Kharnak Nomads
Kamzang Journeys | Markha Valley
Kamzang Journeys | Changthang Nomads
Kamzang Journeys | Rupshu Nomads
Leh & Indus Valley
Kamzang Journeys Products
Duffel bags, t-shirts, camp towels, buffs, handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes + bags, Himalayan textile pillow covers + more available in Kathmandu!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
Kamzang Design Etsy Shop
Client Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments
Kamzang Journeys Menus
Camp Menus
Itinerary
The Wild Route & Bear Valley Camping Trek | Ladakh & Zanskar Traverse (Yulchung to Bear Valley, Zangla & Shade Valleys, Phuktal Gompa & Surichen La Pass) – Indian Himalaya Trekking
Day 1 – Meet in Leh 3500m
Welcome to Leh, the capital of predominantly Buddhist Ladakh in Jammu and Kashmir, tucked away amidst mountainous Ladakh, part of the great Trans Himalayan range. If arriving by air, you will feel the jump in altitude and it will take your body a few days to adjust. If arriving by road from Manali or Srinagar, you will have had some extra acclimatization en route but still need time to adjust to the 3500 meter altitude. Hydrate, stay away from alcohol for a few days, rest, and don’t over-exert yourself! Even walking up to the Leh Bazaar or the steep steps leading to Leh Fort will leave you breathless for the first few days. We recommend starting Diamox the day before you fly up to Leh. The prophylactic dose is 125mg 2x per day if you don’t have any AMS symptoms, or 250mg 2x per day if you have some symptoms such as a headache, feeling dizzy, disoriented and/or irritable, edema (swelling of the extremities, in this case) having no appetite or not sleeping at night.
We stay at the family run Shaynam Hotel, a lovely guest house with a beautiful garden courtyard, located just below the Main Bazaar in Leh, with options to stay at the nearby Padma Guest House, or Omasila in Changspa north of Leh (close to Shanti Stupa). Kim will take you on a short tour of old Leh and the Main Bazaar once you’ve settled into your room and had some coffee, tea, breakfast and water. Central Asian Leh is incredibly atmospheric, packed with trendy cafes and restaurants, Muslim tandoori bread ovens, timeless, winding alleyways, Central Asian antique and pashmina shops, Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, picturesque Muslim mosques, Hindu and Sikh temples, fruit and vegetable markets, a polo field, ancient mani walls and chortens, and the interesting dried fruit and nut market run by locals and flower-laden Dha Hanu villagers along and around the Main Bazaar. Don’t miss the Central Asian Museum or the walking tour of the historic buildings of Old Leh!
We will meet for dinner in the evening for dinner, see Kim’s great eats suggestions that she’ll pass on. (B)
Days 2 & 3 – Leh | Walking, Cycling, Rafting & Sightseeing Tour Options
We have two more full days in Leh to acclimatize, and do some hiking, cycling, exploring, rafting, touring and/or sightseeing and enjoy the peaceful, willow-lined streets and bustling bazaar life of Singge Namgyal’s 17th century capital of Ladakh. Leh was once an integral part of Western Tibet and a major trading post along the southern Silk Route between Central Asia, Tibet, China, Kashmir and India. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town; the newly-restored ruins of the 17th century Leh Palace, the ancient 15th century Leh Fort (the highest point at 3680m) and the attached Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, other historic Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the Sunni and Shi’ite Muslim mosques, narrow back alleys with steaming Muslim bread, tiny antique shops tucked away amidst the many ancient stupas and architectural remnants, the exotic Main Bazaar (c. 1840s) which once accommodated trade caravans, and even a polo field. Today, the Main Bazaar is a colorful street, the sidewalks crammed mornings and afternoons with Ladakhi women selling their fresh fruits and vegetables, and locals at the far end vending their dried nuts, apricots, apples and a colorful variety of vegetables.
Caravans of merchants from far flung destinations such as Yarkand, Tibet, Kashgar and North India passed through Leh during ancient trade missions, trading salt, wool, Pashmina, tea and semi-precious stones, lending to the city its exotic allure. Pilgrims flocked to the monasteries of Leh and the Indus valley, explorers of old stopped in Leh to re-stock and weather out the harsh Himalayan winter and soldiers en route to plunder and conquer desirous destinations passed through Leh, all leaving their mark on this unique capital.
Kim will take you for a walk up bustling Fort Road, lined with shops owned by Kashmiri, Tibetan and Kashmiri shop-keepers, to the crumbling but majestic Leh Fort and the red, Maitreiya Tsemo Gompa, perched high on a craggy and crumbling hilltop overlooking the bazaars of old Leh. You can stop at the 9-story Leh Palace, of a similar architectural design to the Tibetan Potala Palace, on the way down if you have the energy. Visit the museum, a worthwhile endeavor, as well as the nearby gompas/gonpas (Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) – Soma Gompa, Chamba Lakhang and Chensrig Lakhang. Sankar Gompa (17th – 18th c), reached through shady lanes to the east of Changspa, lies in the midst of Chubi’s groves of poplar and willow and is another wonderful morning or afternoon walk. The back route to Leh Fort starts in Chubi and passes through a desert-like Buddhist cremation ground before climbing to the fortress.
Wander along the willow-lines streets of Changspa to reach the many steps leading to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for a view over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. (B)
Touring Options Leh | Indus Valley Sightseeing Trips
Endless options for wonderful ‘jeep safaris’ through the fertile Indus Valley to visit a few of the living Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the ‘cradle of civilization’ of much of the ancient world. Kim can help arrange a jeep and driver for a day or overnight trip to some of Leh and the historic Indus valley’s most scenic and culturally interesting spots.
Indus Valley Monastery & Fortress Tours
Arrange (through Kim, our Tibetan jeep-driver Wang Chuk or the Shaynam Hotel) a ‘jeep safari’ through the fertile Indus Valley to visit a few of the living Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the ‘cradle of civilization’ of much of the ancient world. Kim can help arrange jeeps and/or a guide for a day’s excursion.
Adventure Cycle Option Leh | Drive Up & Cycle Down Kardung La 5340m (39 km)
One of the Himalaya’s great downhill rides, put your bicycle on a jeep up to the Kardung La along the Ladakh Range, the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra Valleys, and part way to the infamous Siachen Glacier. This epic road was built in 1976, and openned to public vehicles in 1988. Cycle down this switchbacking road, stopping on the way down to slowly cycle through some of Leh’s leafy northern suburbs. From Wikipedia “Khardong La is historically important as it lies on the major caravan route from Leh to Kashgar in Central Asia. About 10,000 horses and camels used to take the route annually, and a small population of Bactrian camels can still be seen at Hunder, in the area north of the pass. During World War II there was an attempt to transfer war material to China through this route.” Note that although all signs proclaim the Kardung La to be 5602 meters (or somewhere in this vicinity), it’s actually nearly 300 meters lower, so actually not at all the highest motorable pass in the world! Times of India Article | Kardung La
Leh Historic Cycle Tour | Shanti Stupa, Gonpa Village, Gonpa Monastery & Leh Fort (20-25 km)
Our favorite short Leh cycle tour starts at Shaynam Hotel, cycling along willow-lined lanes up to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for views over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. We continue with a bit of off-road cycling to traditional Gompa village and its monastery at the top of the village, dropping and ascending to cycle along the spectacular, high road to Leh Fort, precariously perched, and the monastery complex above Leh Palace. Last a long descent back to Leh via the old city and the Muslim sections of Leh, an incredibly scenic bike trip.
Indus Valley Eastern Monasteries Cycle (or Jeep) Tour | Spikuk, Stakna, Thiksey & Shey (45-65km)
A beautiful Ladakhi cycling day heading out on a bike tour of the eastern Indus Valley monasteries, beginning with 7½ km out of Leh straight down to Spituk Gompa. We will stop for a visit of this 1000 year old Gelugpa (once Nyingmapa) Tibetan Buddhist monastery, named the ‘exemplary monastery’ by the Great Translator Lotsewa Rinchen Zangpo and presently housing about 1000 monks. Back on the bikes, we cycling past a row of mani stones and chortens along a small willow and popular lined road through the small hamlet of Spituk and cross a small bridge spanning the Indus River. Taking a lovely, rural road with few vehicles, we cycle along the south of the Indus for about 10 km, reaching the equally small intersecting road coming from Tibetan Choglamsar.
We continue to cycle along this small country road, biking past traditional Buddhist villages, Islamic mosques, whitewashed chortens and fields of barley and peas. About 15 km into the ride the impressive sight of Stakna Gompa looms to our left, and we cycle towards the Indus, climbing for a kilometer to reach this impressively set monastery, founded in the 16th century by a Bhutanese lama, and every year Stakna Hosta a monastic festival that still draws a large contingent of monks from Bhutan!
Cruising back down the hill, we cross the Indus again and cycle another 6 km to Thikey Gompa, a bustling monastic institute and a 12-story Gelugpa complex with a renown Maitreya Buddha in the main assembly hall, an ancient library and incredible murals, artifacts and statues. The monastery was built in the 15th century following instructions of Je Tsongkhapa, and has one of the largest monastic schools in Ladakh.
From Thiksey (or Shey) we have options to cycle the last 15 kilometers uphill back to the Shaynam Hotel, or to throw the bikes onto the jeep and drive back with Ang Chuk. From Thiksey to Shey, we cycle west on a flat road along the main highway, paved but with few cars, for 5 km to reach ancient Shey Gompa, one of Ladakh’s old capitals, now in ruins except for the monastery. Cycling further west on the same road, we soon reach the back intersection to Leh, avoiding busy Choglamsar, and climb for about 10 km to the very busy main road. The last 3 or so km are on the main road, crossing through an equally busy intersection at the petrol pump, with the last steep 1 km on our small Old Leh Rd to Shaynam. A big cycling day for our third day at altitude in the Indian Himalaya!
LEH SIGHTSEEING & CYCLING NOTE | Because of the altitude of Leh, you may opt to ONLY do some jeep sightseeing through the Indus Valley, or to wander through Leh’s endlessly fascinating old town or relax and make sure your bike is tuned up. We will discuss options in Leh!
Spitok Gonpa & Stok Palace Cycle (or Jeep) Tour (35+km)
Another great option for cycling tours out of Leh begins with the 7 km downhill to Spitok Gompa, followed by a bucolic cycle across the other side of the Indus, and finally a steep 7 km cycle up to Stok Palace and leafy Stok village. The Ladakah royal family still resides part of the year in this palace, which houses a wonderful prayer room and a very interesting museum, worth a visit (and perhaps an overnight stay). The road continues 2 or 3 km past the palace, ending where the trek to Stok La begins at the top of the valley. Cruise back down the 9-10 km paved road, cross the Indus at Choglamsar, and cycle up the back road to reach Shaynam Hotel.
EAST | Shey, Thikse, Hemis, Chemde (Chemre), Thagthok (Sakti), Stakna + Matho Gompas. Stok Palace has wonderful heritage rooms and chalets for overnight stays, and Sakti has charming homestays.
WEST | Spitok, Phyang, Basgo, Likir, Alchi, Rizdong + Lamayuru Gompas. Alchi is a wonderful village to spend the night, and ditto for Lamayuru, which also has several hotels near this picturesque monastery.
Indus or Zanskar White Water Rafting
Exciting white-water rafting trips on the Indus (less challenging) or Zanskar Rivers, $40 – $45.
Day 4 – Drive Photoksar & Yulchung 3910m or Nyeraks 3860m | Cross Sirsir La 4825m, Bumiktse La 4400m & Singge La 4970m
After breakfast we jump into our jeeps and head for the start of our Ladakh trek at Yulchung, a long drive through the historic Indus Valley and into Ladakh. Leaving Leh we drive past the ancient Spitok Gompa, spectacularly perched on a craggy hillock above the cultivated fields of Spitok village and Phyang Gompa and village to the right. We continue along a cliff-side road past the intersection of the Indus River with the Zanskar River, the Zanskar villagers’ lifeline during the harsh winters. Look out the back windows for a spectacular panorama of the Ladakh range, which extends westward to meet the Karakorum range in the distance. About an hour later, we’ll spot Basgo Gompa and Fort, a 500 year old World Heritage site, situated spectacularly on a spur above the Indus. Further down the Indus on the right is the link road to Likir Gompa, and to the left the turnoff to the 1000 year old Alchi Gompa, built in the Northern Indian style with wonderful frescos and murals inside the many prayer rooms. Just past Alchi is the link road to Rizdong on the right; soon afterwards we cross the Indus at Khaltse, and continue to the turn off to Panjilla a half hour down the road.
Panjilla is a lovely village lined with apricot trees and lively with villagers. We drive further to the Sumdo and then on the spectacular gorge road to Hanupatta. Pink Zanskar roses line the road, leaving behind a scent of cinnamon, and incredible spires of rock tower above at every corner. We continue on the new road giving access to Photoksar, passing through the long village of Hanupatta with ancient carved mani walls and chortens. The valley widens as we slowly ascend, and the rock-spires become ever more impressive, their hues of ochre and tans glowing gently in the morning rays. We cross the large-ish Spong Togpa river on a new Bailey’s bridge, and soon afterwards crest the Sirsir La, our first of many Ladakhi passes (Ladakh means ‘Land of high passes’).
Expansive views of the craggy ranges surrounding us at the prayer-flag festooned summit of the Sirsir La. We descend the steep ridge to our left, passing yellow poppy-like flowers, ‘bee balm’ (bees love this flower) or monarda from which earl grey tea is made and marmots popping their heads out of their burrows. We continue to ascend easily, soon crossing a small stream and climbing a bit to reach an amazing complex of a white-washed kane (entrance) chorten, a mani wall and a lama’s seat. Just around the corner is the incredibly scenic village of Photoksar (4200m), perched precariously on a hillside above the river. If the wild flowers are in bloom and the billowing fields of barley ripening, this is one of the most beautiful villages in Ladakh, certainly one of the most photographed. Especially if the villagers are herding their flocks of sheep and goats back to Photoksar after a day of grazing, the sun-rays filter through the village haze ….
After a break in Photoksar, we’re back in the jeep heading towards our second pass, the small Bumiktse La, passing a summer ‘doksa’ or grazing area. The deep gorge leading directly to Panjilla rises dramatically to our left, and we’ll be greeted with great views of Photoksar and its fertile valley from the pass. Ahead is the Utah-like bulk of the Singge (lion) Peak and the Singge La (pass). This valley is the high pasture of the Photoksar villagers, and we pass their herds of sheep, goats and yaks en route to Yulchung. Next up is the prayer-flag festooned Singge La, the ‘lion pass’ where we’ll have views across Ladakh and Zanskar. Our road snakes its way up to the top of the pass from the left of the valley while the old trail still goes up the middle through the wildflowers, by the small parachute tent.
We’ll hang five-colored Tibetan prayer flags at the Singge La, we drop steeply into the dramatic canyon with the old trail below us, the valley resplendent with Zanskar rose bushes, pastures of wildflowers, lichen-covered rocks and grasses. There are often blue sheep and ibex in this region, as well as red fox, wolves and snow leopards. The massive, ochre-colored canyon walls to our left as we descend have been smoothed and textured by millenniums of wind and water erosion which have left strange caves throughout. Yulchung, which means ‘small kingdom’, is a remote, traditional village with a five-hundred year old gompa on the upper reaches of the village and another smaller ‘lhakhang’ perched on a precarious rock-ledge in front of the crescent-shaped village. The straight rod-like rock on top of the craggy cliffs across the river from camp is called ‘ranjung kazar pani’.
Tomorrow’s pass is visible in the distance, as is the pass leading to ‘bear valley’, high up in the peaks in front of us, past the powerful Zanskar River. We’ll have many local visitors during the course of the afternoon and evening. Kim’s wonderful Zanskari grandmother Sonam Yanskit, sadly passed away in 2022 (in her mid-80s). Sonam Yanskit’s husband Nyawang Jigmet, who looked like a real Tibetan with his turquoise earrings and ‘goncha’ (a dress similar to a chuba), passed away a couple of years before Sonam Yanskit, and her health deteriorated after his death.
We will hope to have a chance to visit a traditional Ladakhi house and the gompa in the afternoon. Behind a set of three ancient chortens lives Sonam Yanskit’s husband’s nephew and his preschool teacher wife, in what used to be the King of Yulchung’s house. They are descendants of this family although there is little that’s still ‘royal’ about their house or lifestyle.
The staff has set up our first Kamzang Journeys campsite just below the extended road, on the far side (south) of the village, right next to some wonderful old Ladakhi dwellings. The dramatic views from this village are awe-inspiring, and the villagers are welcoming. We’ll set you up in your tents, show you around our Kamzang-style dining tent and settle in with a steaming mug of chai.
TRAIL & ROAD NOTE | Depending on the condition of the road and trails after Yulchung, we may opt to drive all the way to Nyeraks, saving this day as an extra one during the trek. At the moment, the road is dirt and paved, and the trail has yet to be rebuilt in a better location. (8 hrs driving)
Day 5 – Trek Nyeraks 3860m | Cross Chocho Khuru La 3865m
The start of our wonderful Himalayan trek, and a scenic Ladakh trekking day as we hike down to the Zanskar River and back up to Nyeraks. Leaving camp, we trek below the ruins of the ancient ‘lhakhang’ and hermitage as we head towards the ridge that drops steeply out of Yulchung to the Zanskar River canyons far below. Keep an eye out for the red fox that lives in the vicinity, and for blue sheep grazing along the hillsides. After contouring around several hillsides, we have a small climb to the Chocho Khuri La, where we’ll enjoy the spectacular views in both directions. Sadly there is a new road built up this pass, and back down, although we can avoid some of it. We drop down a steep switchback, dusty, with a small spring and local berries, into the gorge of the Zanskar River, which we cross by a new wooden, cantilevered bridge, rebuilt after the floods of 2015 (and again a newer bridge for cars). We trek up the hot hillside on a winding trail past a unique version of a ‘lhatoo’ (a shrine to the mountain deities the locals believe live on local peaks), a sculpture made from blue sheep horns, to the village of Nyeraks, perched on a plateau high above the Zanskar.
We begin to understand the harshness of life in such a setting, between pass and river gorge, a seemingly impossible place, with its own beautiful monastery, and even an old, sacred tree. The small Nyeraks Gompa is wonderful, a real relic of times past which is white-washed yearly, a colorful event. The gompa was being renovated and repainted in 2015 by monks and painters from Lingshed, with which it is associated. We once saw the procession of the Ngari Rimpoche, who is the younger brother of the Dalai Lama, leaving Nyeraks after a visit to the monastery, an elaborate procession with parasols, musicians, horses and locals following. Our campsite is another spectacular one on this remote Ladakh trek, with incredible sunset views over the village, passes and craggy peaks. The quality of light in this part of the Himalaya is breathtaking; be sure to have an evening stroll through the village and take it all in. The alfalfa fields are fodder for the animals for the rest of the year, and we often see striped, tufted hoopoes flitting from willow to willow. The other trees are possibly Nepal alders, though we are still in the process of identifying them. We also find these same trees in Mustang!
Sonam Yanskit’s daughter, Thinle Angmo, lives in Nyeraks with her husband and four young children, the youngest 5 (2020). Angmo is an ‘amchi’, or Tibetan doctor, having completed several years of study at Lingshed Gompa years ago, and she now treats local villagers for trade or a small donation. Her husband is often away, working at a medical center in Kaltze, a world away from Nyeraks, and her adorable 1 year old (in 2022) daughter Tashi took her first steps last year when we visited! A large house at the top of the village, once the house of a village chief, has an exquisite house gonpa that we may be able to visit; their cute, young sons love to play in the courtyard. Most of the houses are of traditional Ladakhi design, with an open courtyard in the center of the first floor of the house, where most work is done, and time spent in the sun. (4½ hrs, 9½ km)
Day 6 – Trek Nyeraks High Camp 4675m
We head off on the first half of our steep, 1300 meter ascent from Nyeraks to the Takti La pass, which separates Ladakh from Zanskar on our Himalayan trek (although we only climb 800 meters today). We start climbing right out of the village, passing the white-washed chortens and through the wire gate, often steeply. We pass several cairns as we hike up a chain of several very steep hills, stopping at the top of each to rest, and look behind us towards the Singge. Nyeraks is now a patchwork of greens, browns and tans, far below us in the valley, and the hillside is peppered with ancient, crumbling chortens. The steep sided valley is made of black, oxidized iron ore which sparkles in the sunlight, small mountain flowers brighten the harsh landscape and marmots poke their heads out of their holes. Walking along an old irrigation wall, we soon reach a small pond fed by a mountain spring were we set up a spectacular high camp, cold but worth it for the evening and morning views! (4 ½ hrs, 4 ½ km)
Day 7 – Trek Bear Camp 3980m (Bear Valley) | Cross Takti La 4955m + OhShit La 4580m
Fresh pressed coffee and chai are welcome on this chilly morning as we head into Bear Valley, a name we coined which is now in general use on many Ladakh treks. Keep an eye out for blue sheep and ibex at the flat summit, and notice the glacier flower blooming though out the walk on our short, 1 ½ hour trek to the pass. We ascend to cairn topped ridges, making our way carefully through the scree slope which contour around the peak and lead to the prayer flags at the grassy Takti La. Looking back across to the Singge La and the serrated ridges that we have crossed over the past few days is an awesome sight.
Descending on a very steep switchback to a glacial stream (we might be able to refill water), we have another short and more gradual climb to the OhShit La (named after the view upon reaching this pass from the other direction and seeing the Takti La looming ominously ahead of us). We have now entered our ‘bear valley’, and a steep, switchbacking trail down brings us down to the colorful end of the valley, where we hike into a green valley of willows and flowers, still following the small stream. Making our way on the small, overgrown trail, crossing the stream a few times, we reach the clearing that we call Bear Camp (although we haven’t actually spent the night there with one) in another hour.
We’ve entered one of the ‘lost valleys’ of Zanskar, one of the many that we will explore on our Ladakh and Zanskar trek! The crew will light a fire tonight and make some homemade roti, a great camping evening. Zanskar translates as ‘land of white copper’, a once remote collection of Himalayan kingdoms cut off from the rest of the world by the Himalayan Range to the south, and the Zanskar Range to the north.
BEAR NOTES | Our only actual bear spotting was in 2003, when our group did this trek for the first time (with Joel). We spotted a large brown bear cub just in front of us, and then across the valley what we presumed to be its parents, not looking happy that a large group of trekkers were between them and their cub! The next season we only spotted frozen bear scat and no prints, and in 2005 we again spotted fresh bear scat. Since then we often see bear scat, often last season’s, and sometimes bear prints. Rumors were spread that the villagers of Zangla shot some of the bears after the bears raided their sheep paddocks years ago. The staff also saw a bear in about 2015 just near our campsite! (5½ hrs, 7 km)
Day 8 – Trek Karmafu (Pharkunsa) (Bear Valley) 3780m
Today’s half day Himalayan trek is an exciting and beautiful one, first along the willow-lined stream, jumping back and forth (possibly wear sandals), and then over (or under) an ice bridge and through a narrow canyon with ankle deep water (sandals). Next on the list of adventures is a short climb to the small Pangat La (3900 meters), followed by a high, exposed trail over the river followed by an easy river fording and another canyon trek on crumbling trails on the right side of the river. The staff have often had to rebuild this trail, and sometimes have to unload the horses. Just past this tricky section, we crest a small rise and have a lovely view down valley towards our plateau campsite, a spectacular one. We’ll stop for lunch under the only shady tree in the valley, just after leaving the canyon, and perhaps jump in the river to cool down. Just afterwards, past more local ‘bear berries’ and seabuckthorne bushes, we pass junction of a small stream where (in 2005 Kim) set off alone to help get camp set up, heard a loud splashing very close to her which she assumed to be a bear, and came running back to the lunch spot. Joel and the boys, ever brave, came running out with the bear spray to do battle. Be on the lookout for the prints and scat of snow leopard, fox and wolf as well as bear.
We might do a bit of river walking, or we can opt to stay on the trail, which undulates on the scree slope, avoiding the thorns of the seabuckthorne bushes. These berries produce a delicious drink, very high in vitamin C, which you can find in Leh, sweetened with sugar. A few years ago Lhakpa and I saw fresh bear tracks while river walking, and over 10 years ago Joel, the group and I encountered a large Himalayan Brown Bear, turning our heads to see the even larger mother and father bears across the small stream. There are many brightly striped hoopoes in this valley, very hard to photograph and very shy. In 2022, we followed a series of local pea and grass-filled bear scat all the way down tomorrow’s pass (the Namtse La) and to the bottom of the valley, right near the village of Zangla! I heard from WC Namgyal, a researcher in Zangla who lives next door to the King’s house, that bears have a 700x greater sense of smell than humans …
We arrive in our plateau campsite in the early afternoon, in time to enjoy the views of the hoodoos across the stream, go for a dip below camp, and possibly spot some blue sheep and ibex that roam the hillsides. The hoodoos that line the riverbank opposite camp are amazing sculptures of eroded rock and mud, that hosted a show of acrobatic blue sheep several years ago. Our mules and horses got stuck in the mud flats below camp many summers ago, after extreme flooding in Ladakh that left the rivers clogged with quick sand-like mud, and a few years ago we left camp following the fresh tracks of bear prints up the valley towards Zanskar. We might build a campfire in the evening, a practice first started to keep the bears away years ago. (4½ – 5 hrs, 8 km)
Day 9 – Trek Zangla Doksa River Camp 3430m | Cross Namtse La 4495m
A small saddle above our campsite topped with a barrier of sticks leads us back down into a dramatic, narrow valley on the start of our exciting Himalayan trekking day. Our small trail follows a small, willowy stream that intersects our Bear Valley river, and which we follow as we ascend for an hour or so, often jumping from side to side (no sandals required). After hiking through tight willows, the valley broadens and the views open in front of us as we ascend under hoodoos backed by brilliant blue sky. Chukars chortle and rush up the arid hillsides and grazing yaks glance up as we invade their pristine territory. Continuing to hike a bit more steeply uphill for another few hours, it’s an easy crossing of the Namtse La, a desert-like pass which means ‘top of the sky’. If the weather cooperates this is our lunch spot, a scenic one!
We drop steeply for a total of 1000 meters, entering into a beautiful valley of Zanskar roses, shimmering shale, a tiny stream and wolf traps. After some three hours walking, brings us out onto the wide plain, the once-Kingdom of Zangla. One really gets a sense of why this remained a hidden kingdom for so many centuries. At the top right of the village is the hilltop fortress (dzong) of Zangla, and past that several watch towers along the Jumlam route. Past Zangla lies the Himalayan barrier and the Umasi La route leading to Kashmir; the wooden beams that are the center of most Zanskari houses came from this route, laboriously carried by porters centuries ago. Below, the Zanskar curves away into the Muslim Suru valley and the Pensi La, closed for all but three months of every year and in front, behind the villages of Pidmo and Pishu, the Zanskar range cuts off approach for all but those like us, a well-equipped caravan.
After emerging from the gorge we have a one-hour walk through Honya Doksa and along the Zanskar plateau following the paved road, or hiking along the riverside, a slightly longer but nicer route where hoopoes abound, to our lovely riverside camp that we call Zangla Doksa River camp. Doksa means seasonal nomadic settlement in Ladakhi, and the locals from Honya Doksa will pass by in the evenings with their large flocks of sheep, goats and donkeys, making for some classic photos of traditional life in Zanskar. The grass is green and there is a clear spring (spout) right at camp, so have a refreshing wash and settle in for the evening. Sunsets and sunrises are amazing from camp, the perfect end to a classic Zanskar trekking day! (7½ hrs, 15 km)
Day 10 – Zangla Doksa River Camp
A rest and exploration day in Zanskar; options are to hang around at camp and relax in this sublime setting, to visit the Central Zanskar monasteries or to hike up and explore the wonderful and historic Zanskari village of Zangla, though we do pass through Zangla and can visit the fort tomorrow, en route to the Jumlam route.
Kim and Lhakpa will head to Padum to resupply for the second half of our Ladakh and Zanskar trek. Some people might want to hire a local jeep and explore the historic monasteries of Central Zanskar, an interesting and scenic tour!
Zangla Village & Fort Tour
Climbing gradually out of our campsite, hike along the plateau past a weathered rock carved with thousand-year old Mon chortens, soon reaching Zangla Chomo Ani Gonpa (nunnery) to the northern side of the village. Follow the village road past the King of Zangla’s house, where our Kamzang Journeys group had tea one summer with the royal residents, including the Queen Mother. The King of Zangla, Gyalthes Nima Norboo Namgial Ldey of the Sonsten Gampo lineage, recently passed away, but was the same age as the Dalai Lama (early 80s) who he knew well. We met the King of Zangla once in the village, and another time rode into and back from Padum with him in 2015. The King’s house now has a new horse stable in front, and the new house right next to the somewhat dilapidated royal residence is the house of the village carpenter.
Songsten Gampo was the great 7h century Tibetan king who unified much of Tibet, encouraged the spread of Tibetan Buddhism and was the patron of the creation of the Tibetan script. He had two wives, one Chinese and the other Nepali. The king’s family is also of the Nyimagon lineage, a Tibetan king from the 11h century whose youngest of three sons, Ldey Tsugon, ruled Zanskar, Lahoul and Spiti. The other two sons ruled areas of western Tibet (Guge, Purang) near Mount Kailash.
The piece de resistance of Zangla, however, is its fortress, presently being restored by an organization called ‘Cosmos Room’. The ruins of the 900 year-old Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the ancient Kings of Zangla, are a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of lookout towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally ‘melted’ the dzong, and it is now quite as safe as it was previously. The famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19h century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room. The fort is guarded over by a giant, new stupa built in 2009, while more ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend back to the village and eventually to camp.
Zanskar Valley Monasteries Tour | Sani 3670m, Karsha 4030m & Pipiting 3670m Gompas
We can help to hire a local jeep from Zangla to visit the fascinating, historic monasteries of Central Zanskar …
Leaving Zangla, you’ll pass a local Zanskar lhatoo to the left of the road just past town, a shrine to the mountain deity that lives on the peak just near the fortress. Driving south for 19 km along a relatively flat road, you’ll pass the hamlets of Tsazar, with Rinam across the Zanskar River, to reach Stonge village, with the monastery high above. Just before reaching the main village, the jeep turns to the left and drives steeply up the traverse to Stongde Gonpa.
Stongde Monastery 3815m
Stongde Gompa, one of the oldest in Zanskar, was built in 1052 by Naropa’s disciple, the famous translator Lama Marpa, and taken over by the Gelugpa in the 15th century, with Je Tsongkhapa as its present head. Stongde is the second largest monastery in Zanskar, with approximately 60 monks and many students, renown for its Gustor Festival during the summer.
After the climb to the monastery, climb to the monastery roof for wonderful views of the patchwork of Stongde village and the Zanskar valley. It’s one of the most lively and colorful monasteries, perched precariously up on a craggy rock ledge, and surrounded by lovely birch woods. We has many friends there, including Geshe Lobsang who lectures and travels around the world, and founded the monastic school. Geshe Stenzin and his brother, are also good friends; they might invite us for tea and give us a tour of the gompa, including its room of treasures in back of the oldest ‘lhakhang’, or prayer hall. We might be able to catch the evening puja in the butter-lamp lit prayer room, a surreal experience with resonating, deep chanting, cymbals, Tibetan drums, a step back hundreds of years.
Sani Gonpa 3670m
We recommend visiting the 1000-year-old Sani Gompa on the Stod River, the route out to Rangdum and the Suru Valley, a Drukpa Kargyu gompa with several resident nuns living in the monastery. The monastery is renown for its unique Kanika Chorten, presumed to date back to the time of the famous Kushan emperor, Kanishka (Kanika is the English transliteration of the emperor’s name) who lived around 127 CE. Kanishka is well known in Buddhist literature as the promoter of Buddhism in this region, sponsoring a significant Buddhist conference in Kashmir.
From Wikipedia: “Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, is said to have dwelt for five years in the small ‘Gamshot Lhakang’ squeezed between the main building and the corridor, to the right of the Kanika chorten. Inside may be seen a figure of Guru Rinpoche and historical scenes in half relief on both sides of the statue. Apparently, one can just see the white opening to a cave in a cliff across the river from the monastery where Padmasambhava is also said to have meditated for several years and it is still used as a meditation cell. The monastery is also claimed to be connected with the famous Indian Yogi Naropa (956-1041 CE). There is now small room next to the Kanika chorten where it is thought that Naropa meditated in which there is a veiled bronze statue of the yogi. A group of Kargyu nuns established a small retreat centre at ‘Starkhugnza’ in the 1990s. It is a site above Sani which was founded by Ngawang Tsering (1657-1732), a famous Zanskar meditator. All of the nunneries in Zanskar are under the spiritual authority of the monks and few have much in the way of endowments.”
Karsha 4030m & Pipiting 3670m Gompas
From Sani, take the back roads to the Gelugpa Karsha Gompa, the largest, most important, and possibly the most scenic monastery in Zanskar, built high up into the cliffs above the village of Karsha. The monastery is said to be founded by Guru Rimpoche, or Padmasambhava, and is under the control of the Ngari Rimpoche (the brother of HH the Dalai Lama). “Behind his seat in the chapel is a statue of Lhaso Cho Rinpoche, brought from Lhasa in the 1960s, with a golden crown decorated with carnelian and turquoise. The most important festival, known as the Karsha Gustor, is held with masked cham dances on the 26th to the 29th day of the 11th Tibetan month, which is usually in January.” – Wikipedia
The oldest temple is the Avalokiteshvara Lhakang, containing wall paintings from 1000 years ago during the period of Rinchen Zangpo. A fire burned down the kitchen about a decade ago, and a new, larger kitchen was rebuilt. The inside of the main assembly hall is purely Tibetan Buddhist, with ancient murals on the walls, priceless statues and the usual Buddhist offerings. Karsha and Karsha village are home to many ancient rock-carving sites. The monastery is said to be founded by Guru Rimpoche, or Padmasambhava, and is under the control of the Ngari Rimpoche. A fire recently burned down the kitchen, but a new, larger kitchen was rebuilt. The inside of the main assembly hall is purely Tibetan Buddhist, with ancient murals on the walls, priceless statues and the usual Buddhist offerings.
Padum 3585m
After the tour, you will return via Padum, (3585m), a Central Asian town and a transit point for goods coming and going from Leh to Kargil, with a large Muslim population. There are some thousand year old pre-Tibetan Buddhist Buddha carvings just below Padum, the Gyalba Rigsinga, worth a look. And pick up a plate of momos on the main drag!
“Mons of the Khesa race were dominant in the past in the region of western Himalayas. The Mons have been Buddhist in the region from the time of the Kushan dynasty, established by Emperor Kanishka. Mons, the dominant population in the Zanskar valley, and are said to belong to an Aryan race linked to Kaniskha’s period as their features do not match those of the local tribes or the Mongolians. Mons are credited with building 30 monasteries, chortens and temples, including Karsha Monastery in the main Zanskar valley; some of the other monasteries they built are: Teta, Muni, Phuktal, Pune, Bardol, Togrimo, Padum, Pipting, Tondhe, Zangla, Linshot and Sumda. Gelugpa monastery is another important monastery in Khursha village, which has an excellent display of mural arts. – Wikipedia
Day 11 – Trek Tzazar Doksa (Zangla Sumdo) Camp 3825m
We start our wild, 5-day Himalayan trekking route (many of them sandal and trekking pole days, including today during which we have 20+ river crossings) through the colorful gorges and canyons from Zanskar and Zangla to the remote Shade valley, beginning with a section of the Jumlam, or ‘middle route’. The Jumlam is an old Silk Route trail leading into Zanskar, a Ladakh Zanskar trek used when the rivers were low enough to trek along the riverbeds.
Leaving our Zangla campsite, we trek for 45-minutes past the Mon carved mani ‘chorten’ stone and up to the Zangla Ani Gompa (nunnery), and continue along the road past the once-impressive King of Zangla’s house. We continue to ascend for another half hour to the impressive Zangla Fort, home to the kings of Zangla of yore. Just afterwards, heading left on the jeep track, we pass the protector deity’s small lhakhang (god’s house) on the right of the trail followed by ancient lookout towers on both sides of the valley, now crumbling and in ruins, attesting to the importance of the Jumlam trade route centuries ago.
We walk along the irrigation ditch for a bit while descending and soon reach the green doksa of the Tsazar villagers. From here we head left, or east, along the Zumlung Chu (river), crossing many times in the willow-shaded valley full of ancient beds of fossilized oysters. It should take us about five hours of hilly walking, with many river crossings, to reach our campsite, just past the turnoff (to the right) leading to the main Jumlam route and the Charchar La. Our camp at Tzazar Doksa is lovely and warm, surrounded by willows, but loses the sun early (4:30 pm) so our hint is to climb to the plateau 100m above camp, cross the river where there are many doksas and a grassy spring, or back to the sumdo (river intersection), which keeps the sun until 6 pm. There are blue sheep and ibex in this valley, as well as (potentially) bears, the grass is lovely for some stretching or yoga, and the stream is refreshing for a post-hike wash. There are local greens near the doksas, which we’ll pick for a delicious addition to our evening meal. (6 hrs, km)
DISTANCE
Day 12 – Trek Pandang La High Camp 4450m
We follow the shimmering Zumlung Chu on today’s Zanskar trek, with plenty of ‘Himalayan flat’ throughout the day. Leaving camp, we hike for 5 minutes through thick seabuckthorne bushes to a doksa. The first two hours of hiking are easy, crossing the river many times in a magical valley which opens up as we head north. Note the amazing canyon on our left and the dramatic, soaring canyons in general as we hike. The valley is full of ‘dinosaur plants’, willows and oyster beds, a rocky, narrow valley of large scree trails. At the second sumdo, or river junction, at 3950 meters the trail narrows and we trek through a batch of seabuckthorne bushes, with tart, orange berries amongst sharp thorns. Our trail undulates as we negotiate the tricky valley floor, often climbing and descending to avoid sheer rocks dropping to the river or thick groves of underbrush. This route is the grazing area of Tzazar villagers (just south of Zangla), who use the valley as their summer pastures.
Finally, we make a sharp right, cross the stream, leave the river and ascend steeply for a bit on a trail of loose scree and rocks, which eventually flattens out. Flowers and oasis of trees appear in the stark landscape, softening it, and our trail becomes more gradual. We turn directly left through a grove of willows, passing our hidden Bazza Camp (4250m), a green pasture by a clear stream named after our friend Bazza who celebrated his birthday here in during our exploratory trek in this region.
From here we have one last steep ascent through green pastures, passing several doksas and grazing yaks, staying on a trail over the steep ravine below us to our right. Blue sheep roam the hillsides, so keep your eyes open as you walk through the green plateaus ahead. After about 45 minutes we reach our small, green Pandang La High Camp, with a very cold spring and incredible views including tomorrow’s Pandang La. We have encountered a herd of semi-wild Zanskari horses at this dramatic high camp, possessive of their grazing area and quite aggressive towards our horses. (5 hrs, km)
Day 13 – Trek Yangdam Chen 4430m | Cross Pandang La 5175m
Another Himalayan pass day, starting with yet another steep ascent through meadows colored with pink and red bistort, the views increasingly spectacular as we look back to the craggy peaks of Zanskar behind us. We’ll trek for about 2½ hours to crest the Pandang La, where we’ll stop and admire the panorama of Himalayan peaks from this remote pass. The trail to our right at the pass as we look ahead towards Shade leads, eventually, to Tsazar. A route to explore another year …
The descent begins with an easy 20 minute of contouring to the left, followed by a steeper descent down into the Niri Chu valley. We’ll stop for lunch at the first green plateau about 45 minutes below the pass, or possibly at camp 30 minutes from here. Camp is on a small, green plateau with a frigid spring (spout) in back. There is lots to explore if you have the energy for some hiking above camp, across the river. Blue sheep roam the hillsides, we’ve often spotted snow leaopard tracks, and there is also a good deal of bird life including hoopoes along the riverside amongst the collection of doksas. (5 hrs, km)
Day 14 – Trek Mitsik Doksa 4285m | Cross Liyu La 4375m & Lar La 4690m
An adventurous and beautiful river day, with an incredible array of wildlife living amongst the craggy hillsides, judging from the prints we encounter. Bear, wolf, snow leopard, blue sheep, red fox are among the tracks that we generally encounter, an exciting route!
Leaving camp, we cross our river almost immediately and continue along the right banks of the river for half an hour on a relatively flat trail. At the sumdo of this river and the Niri Chu we pass by a large river valley to the left that leads to the nomadic region of Kharnak. We have to cross Niri Chu, and then continue to cross this river throughout the morning, staying mostly at river level. Wear sandals or running shoes and have your trekking poles with you! The valley is a dramatic combination of soaring cliff-walls, canyons and green river valleys, lovely.
After about three hours of river hiking we cross the small, intersecting stream coming from our left and climb for a short time to a grassy plateau, the Niri Chun camp from our exploratory trek, our river crossings finished. We soon reach Shade Pullu, another doksa, and then have 45 min – 1 hour of slightly exposed, high trails to reach the ridge-top Liyu La, a dramatic vantage point from where we look out to our next pass, the Lar La. The ascent to the Lar La isn’t nearly as daunting as it looks from the Liyu La, though it is a big climb.
We’ll rest for a bit at the pass, and then descend for 15 minutes (about 150m) to the Niri Doksa valley, from where we begin to climb again up the steep grazing ridge towards the Lar La. We will stop for lunch about half way up the steep, switch-backing trail. The pass generally takes about 1½ hours to climb, the craggy rock outcropping at the top a welcome sight! The views from this pass are some of the most dramatic in the valley, worth a half hour of gazing back over the remote river valleys that we trekked through, and onwards towards Shade.
Our descent is another steep one as the valley drops right down to a green campsite called Mitsik Doksa, where the staff have set up camp at yet another mind-boggling beautiful camp right on the shimmering, clear and pebbly riverside. Mitsik Doksa is a wide flood plain along the river, absolutely wonderful, sometimes visited by locals from Shade on their way to or from a doksa. Take the afternoon to do some laundry and explore down the river valley towards Niri Chu, which snakes through deep canyons below us. We’re right below tomorrow’s pass, the Rotang La, so we will arrive at Shade early enough to explore this wonderful remote village. (8 hrs, km)
Day 15 – Trek Shade 4270m | Cross Rotang La 4890m
It’s about a three hours climb to the Rotang La from camp, hiking somewhat steeply past Rotang Doksa (4470m) where we might find some fresh sheep or goat yogurt if the villagers have camped here. From the doksa, the trail switchbacks a bit more gradually through local pea plants to the Rotang La, festooned with prayer flags, and with impressive views! The descending valley on the Shade side is colorful in shades of yellows, oranges and reds, and it’s a lovely and easy descent of about an hour to Shade, with one small ridge between. We’ve seen snow leopard prints in this valley as well, as you would expect near a remote village of herders. Just before the village we pass an extensive collection of white-washed chortens, signs of Shade’s importance along the ancient salt trade routes …
Our campsite is just before Shade, on the only flat area next to a stream, a spot perfectly situated for washing, and for sunrise and sunset photos of Shade village and its patchwork of fields. The villagers and village kids will be by in the afternoon, and at sunset the large flocks of sheep and goats are herded into the closed paddocks for milking, the herders carrying essential loads of dried grasses, alfalfa and pea plants on their backs.
Shade, not often visited by Westerners, is one of the most interesting villages we’ll encounter on our trek, so we will head out to explore after lunch. The village is a cluster of 14 traditional, closely packed Zanskari mud-brick houses, with corrals for the goats and sheep, grass drying on the rooftops, small vegetable gardens. There are approximately 95 inhabitants, of whom three of the men are in the Indian Army, bringing a bit of extra wealth to the village. There are also five lamas/monks and one ‘chomo’, or nun, residing in the village, and our friend the amchi (also the headman), with his wife and five children, impressive for a remote village of this size. We’ll visit some of the local houses for a glass of tea, chang (Tibetan barley beer), yogurt from the nearby doksa or some churpi (dried cheese).
Shade is surrounded by extensive fields of barley (ne), potatoes (aloo), sag (shema) and snap peas and they also have greenhouses in which they grow radish (labo), cilantro, cabbage, cauliflower and carrots. Some of the locals stay up in the doksas north of our campsite, sometimes returning every few days and other times staying longer. The villagers rotate grazing their flocks and protecting them from the many wolves and snow leopards in the area! Local words for some of the wildlife we might encounter: snow leopard (shen), ibex (hin), blue sheep (nabo) and wolf (shanku). (4½ hrs, km)
Day 16 – Trek Yatah 3995m
Another amazing trekking day ahead as we head to Yatah, our next remote campsite, located half way to Phuktal Gompa in Central Zanskar. Leaving the Shangri-La of Shade via a trail directly below the village, we pass through the entrance chorten and descend past the harvesting villagers for about 45 minutes to where the river plummets through a narrow gorge and the canyon closes in on us. We’ve watched flocks of 45+ ibex grazing in this valley, where locals collect village fodder at the end of the summer. At the intersection of the Niri Chu (river) we reach the village ‘lhatoo’ (4100 m), a kata-covered monument dedicated to Shade’s protector deity called Cho Gyumjang, a female goddess. Her peak is just to the left if you’re looking up the narrow canyon towards Shade, and locals invite the monks from Phuktal Gompa to have a yearly puja for her (which we’ve been lucky to witness).
Turning left at the lhatoo, with the turqouise Niri Chu once again far below us, we have about ten minutes of slightly exposed trail as we head towards Trantrog Gompa (4020m). Soon the valley opens, the turquoise river takes wide S turns and our canyons become dramatic hoodoos over the riverbed. We can see the tiny hamlet of Trantog ahead, with its small gompa said to be either 30-40 or 750 years old. Perhaps there was an ancient meditation cave at the site of this gompa, which the caretaker told us was built by a lama from Phuktal. The interesting woman who holds the key might be around to show us the village treasures. There are apparently only three people living in the village and about as many houses. Still, it’s certainly a scenic spot built up on a craggy hill overlooking this idyllic valley.
From Trantog we descend to the willow-lined Niri Chu which we cross on a bridge (which was a bit sketch in 2022), afterwards climbing on an exposed trail to a contouring trail high above the valley, following the the river on the opposite side. Soon we reach ‘Trantog Sumdo’ (3960m) leading to the Shun Shade valley. We contour on a wide trail above the Nialo Kontse Chu, which the river has become after the last intersection, for another 1½ hours. We pass a new and an old bridge across the river, the old one an original rope bridge, and have lunch by a gnarly ancient juniper stump overlooking the gorge. Three ridges later we’ve reached Tsarap Sumdo (3920m), and then we have only 30 minutes to camp at the high grazing pastures of Yatah. Yatah is about 150 meters above the trail to the right, an unexpected site after our narrow, steep-sided canyon, and it will take another half an hour to reach it. (5½ hrs, km)
Day 17 – Trek Phuktal Gompa & Purne 3830m | Cross Phuktal La 4005m
Another wonderful Zanskari trekking day, starting with a climb of 100 meters above camp to drop back down to the main trail a bit further on, avoiding a cliff section of trail below. From the flags at the top of the ridge, we descend back down to meet a new, cantilevered bridge and the main trail to Phuktal. On the other side of this small gully we contour on a good trail high above the Tsarap Chu and past several small doksa. It’s a hot trail as the high altitude sun reflects off the mica-filled sandy hills around us. We have a long, dusty and hot climb to reach the Phuktal La, from where we’re treated to a tremendous view over the spectacular Phuktal Gompa and the green, checkered valley. We’ll stop for lunch here, at the massive, white-washed chorten, followed by a very short descent to the iconic Buddhist monastery.
Phuktal Gompa (3900m), which translates as ‘the cave of leisure or liberation’, is spectacularly built into a cliff-side, one of the most colorful gompas in Zanskar as well as one of the oldest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the Indian Himalaya (15th century, although information inside the monastery claims that it’s nearly 1000 years old). Phuktal Gompa has a school attached, and the young, lively monks are always keen to practice their English or to have a photo taken. The monastery is a real Central Asian treasure with ancient prayer rooms, an old library, a fountain with magical waters in the original cave, a Tibetan medicine center, a wonderful kitchen and many old friends. Singge, the young Zanskari boy that we sponsored for school at the Himalayan Buddhist School in Manali (and our first Kamzang Kid), stayed a few years at this Phuktal before being ‘evicted’ for bad behavior. Alexander Csoma de Kőrös also spent time translating in this monastery (see below).
Phuktal Gompa
“Phuktal Monastery is built around a natural cave, which is believed to have been visited by numerous sages, scholars, translators, and monks around 2,550 years ago. The remote location of the monastery was ideal for monks looking for peace and solitude to meditate. The present Phuktal Gompa, of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism, was established in the early 15h century by Jangsem Sherap Zangpo, a disciple of Je Tsongkhapa. Tsongkhapa was the founder of Gelug, which is one of the newest schools of Tibetan Buddhism.
Believed to be one of the earliest residents of the cave are the 16 Arhats, or the legendary followers of Buddha. The images of these 16 Arhats appear on the cave walls. The great scholars and translators Padmasambhava and Phakspa Nestan Dusdan are believed to have lived in the cave, and so is the great leader and translator Lama Marpa Lotsawa. In the 12h century, the Tibetan translator Zanskar Lotsawa Phagpa Sherab also lived and worked from Phuktal. The eminent scholars and brothers Dangsong, Pun, and Sum, who were believed to have the supernatural power of flight gave teachings on Dharma at Phuktal. When Jangsem Sherap Zangpo arrived at Phuktal, the three brothers bequeathed the holy site to him and departed. According to legend, the spiritually gifted Zangpo caused a spring to appear and run from the cave, a tree to grow on top of the cave and for the cave itself to grow larger in size. Then, under his guidance, the present structure of the monastery was built around the cave. It is built in the cliffside, like a honeycomb. The cliff is part of a lateral gorge of a major tributary of the Lungnak River (Lingti-Tsarap River). The monastery today houses a main temple, prayer rooms, a library with rare sacred texts, apartments and living quarters, teaching facilities, a kitchen, and of course, the original cave and the sacred spring, which is protected. It is home to about 70 monks.
There is a stone tablet which serves as a reminder of the stay of Alexander Csoma de Kőrös at Phuktal, while he worked on the first English-Tibetan dictionary between 1826 and 1827, when he explored Ladakh.” – Wikipedia
After exploring the gonpa and meeting the many young novice monks, we descend to the Tsarap Chu, crossing this massive river on a long, wooden bridge, from where we have almost two hours of undulating trail to camp. After some big floods several years ago, we had to cross this massive river on a locally-constructed vine bridge, and our horses had to swim the huge, fast-flowing river. Scary! It’s a beautiful hike along the left banks of Tsarap Chu on a precipitous, undulating and recently improved canyon trail, with road building in progress closer to Purne.
Purne, on the main Zanskar trail, is at confluence of the Tsarap Chu and the Kargiak Chu, and there are sure to be other trekkers and travelers staying at this hub as the road to the Singge La and Himachel Pradesh passes by Purne now. Camp at Norboo’s guest house and campsite is warm, a beautiful spot to relax, so take advantage of the free time to do some laundry and have a cold beer from the local shop-teahouse, run by Norboo’s lovely daughters. Sadly, the oldest daughter Angmo, married to a good friend, from Padum, died of cancer in 2022. Their aunt Dolma, the local amchi, is also a good friend of ours from years ago and owns a lodge next door. Showers available at the guest house! (7 hrs, km)
Day 18 – Trek Tangze 4015m
Leaving our lovely camp at Purne, we descend back down to the small bridge and then hike back up to the main Zanskar trail following the Kargiak Chu. We pass the small village of Yal, where fodder and kindling dry on the rooftops, in half an hour, and then continue on our high trail overlooking the Kargyak Chu for another hour until we reach the labyrinthine village of Testa, an oasis of green fields and traditional Zanskari houses. Next comes the colorful Kuru with its many threshing circles and white-washed mani walls. Trekking further along the trail past Kuru’s long chain of mani walls, we descend crossing a small stream coming down from our right, and then continue along the river bank for another half an hour. We cross the Kargiak Chu on a large bridge, continuing for another hour or so to the village of Tangze, with its many-hued patchwork of fields. We’ll stop at the small the small teahouse, owned by our friend Sonam Dorje and run by his two daugters. Sonam’s son Phuntsok is the local amchi of Tangze.
The staff has set up camp in Sonam Dorje’s campsite, as we prepare to leave the main Zanskar valley behind the day after tomorrow. Above us to the right of the trail is Tangze Gompa, one of the oldest in Zanskar, backed by jagged, dun-colored peaks (and renovated in 2022, losing much of its charm). Have a walk around the 2-tiered village, alive with birdlife, and green with almost ripe barley, pea and dal plants, and bush with locals in the fields, and kids returning from school. (5 hrs, 14km)
Day 19 – Trek Kargiak 4110m | via Tangso & Skyng
We’ll enjoy the scenic hike to beautiful Kargiak village, the first southern village in Zanskar. Singge comes from this village, and we’ll hope to meet his blind mother who still moves to the doksas to take care of the animals in the summertime. It’s a 2 – 3 hour hike directly to Kargiak, following the Kargiak Chu through a scenic, green valley dotted with villages, with the Gompa Rangjung monolith looming spectacularly in front of us in the direction of the Shingo La pass to Lahaul.
For those who’d like a longer, cultural hike en route to Kargiak, we have the option to hike along the opposite side of the river, ascend gradually for about 45 minutes and cross the intersecting river on a (shaky) bridge, and visit the lovely and cultural village of Tangso, with its large school and tiers of barley fields. We’ll continue down the valley to Skyng, perhaps stopping for a cup of tea or our lunch at Singge’s sister Tsering’s house. Tsering has 5 children, the youngest 2-year-old was home in 2022. Skyng is always bustling with harvest activity, the golden barley undulating in the wind, the yaks and dzobkios (dzos) tied by the nose rings to their stakes …
We cross a small bridge over the Kargiak Chu and reach the main road, where we really see what the road has done to Zanskar in terms of development. There’s even a cement heli-pad at the northern end of town! Finally we reach our green, riverside campsite at Kargiak. The green oasis of Kargiak has a solar-powered Sun School build and sponsored by a Czechoslovakian INGO, an old village gompa up top, large, tri-colored chortens to the south of the village and several sprawling multi-family houses forming the center of this scenic village. Singge’s blind mother and other relatives also live in the village, so we’ll stop for a visit in the afternoon. (2½ – 5 hrs, 9+ km)
EXPLORATORY ROUTE
Day 20 – Trek Surichun La High Camp
An exploratory day of trekking, leaving Kargiak and trekking just to the south of the village, over the small stream heading east towards the Surichun La. Villagers have told us that camp is is a lovely high plateau, probably about a 5 hour hike from the village on a well-used grazing trail. (5 hrs, km)
Day 21 – Trek Chumik Marpo | Cross Surichun La 5620m
Another exploratory day crossing the high Surichun La, though we end up in the same campsite as crossing the Phirtse La. It will be a long and challenging day reaching this high pass, where the mountain views are sure to be exceptional! Descending, the valley eventually widens and we reach another wonderful campsite called Chumik Marpo, which overlooks rolling green hills ahead. Behind is the route to Kargiak over the Phirtse La.
The valley widens and we reach another wonderful campsite called Chumik Marpo, a green doksa colored with high alpine flowers which overlooks rolling green hills ahead. Behind is the route to Kargyak over the 4620 meter Surichun La. (8 hrs, km)
TRADITIONAL ROUTE
Day 19 – Tangze | Day Hike Kargiak 4110m
If we’ve made it through the trek without needing this extra day, in Zanskar, we’ll use this day for a day hike to Kargiak. Singge comes from this village, and we’ll hope to meet his blind mother who still moves to the doksas to take care of the animals in the summertime. It’s a two to three hour walk each way following the Kargiak Chu through a scenic, green valley dotted with villages, with the Gompa Rangjung monolith looming spectacularly in front of us in the direction of the Shingo La pass to Lahaul. We’ll hike along the opposite side of the river, and visit the lovely and cultural villages of Tangso and Skyng en route, perhaps stopping for a cup of tea at Singge’s cousin’s house. Skyng is always bustling with harvest activity, the golden barley undulating in the wind.
We cross a small bridge over the Kargiak Chu to reach our green, riverside campsite at Kargiak, and then head out to explore the village. The green oasis of Kargiak has a solar-powered school build and sponsored by a Czechoslovakian INGO, an old village gompa up top, large, tri-colored chortens to the south of the village and several sprawling multi-family houses forming the center of this scenic village. We’ll return to Tangze along the straight trail on the same side of the river. (7 hrs r/t, 9 km)
Day 20 – Trek Zingchen 4605m or Phirtse La High Camp 4915
We’re heading along an ancient trans-Himalayan trade route for the rest of the trek, part of the old Silk Route. Until the 1980s the Changpas from Tibet came two times a year to trade barley with the Zanskaris. Starting in Serchu on the Leh-Manali highway, they crossed the Phirtse La with their caravans and arrived at Tangze in the Lungnak valley to trade their salt and wool. See Janet Rizvi’s ‘Caravans of the Himalayas’ for more about this.
A beautiful day of trekking as we head west up the second valley just beyond Tangze. The checker of vibrant green field opens up below us as we climb higher, passing the tri-colored chortens at the far end of the village and entering the narrow gorge to our left and climbing steeply. We follow a trickle of a stream on colored river rocks, taking a sharp turn right up the steep hillside to our right. Look for blue sheep and horns as we hike. We climb through green pastures and a doksa, and an hour plus later we’ve reach a craggy ridge which we call the Tangze La (4585m) which offers magnificent views down to lower Zanskar and towards the Shingo La (pass) leading to Lahaul. Below us, spread throughout the Zanskar valley, the hillsides are colored in shades of eggplant, green and mustard. River deltas below create artistic patterns and blue flowers surrounded by a sage-like brush decorate the ground underfoot.
We descend gently, cross a few small streams and set up camp at what locals call Zingchen, an idyllic green campsite in the valley. We may head another few hours up the valley to the higher Phirtse La High Camp depending on the condition of the lower camp, and the weather. (5 hrs, km)
Day 21 – Trek Chumik Marpo 4765m | Cross Phirtse La 5580m
We’ll have an early start for our crossing of the epic Phirtse La pass, which will take us at least 5 hours to ascend as we gain 950m! Crossing to the other side of the valley 15 minutes past camp, usually jump able, we climb and descend on thes bank of the river as we head towards the pass. We pass a small doksa, a campsite for a small group, after an hour or so, afterwards crossing the river again back to the left bank. 2 ½ hours from camp we finally reach Phirtse La High Camp (4900m), after which the trail turns rocky and we share the valley with grazing yaks as we trek along scree trails above the glaicial river. The colors of the valley turn shades of grey, black and ochre as we ascend on a good path, stopping for a break at a green patch with a large boulder and admiring the glaciers and snow-peaks that surround us (3-4 hrs). The last, steep, 400-meter switchback brings us, grindingly, to the crest of the Phirtse La, an impressive climb and a sublime Himalayan view!
Heading down the right hand valley we enter another green, fertile grazing valley and follow the rolling hills for an hour, having lunch at a sheltered doksa. We cross the small stream next to us, climb a small ridge and then the right fork of the valley. After a steep climb and descent on a shale trail, jumping several small streams and with a little bit of mild exposure, we contour around brown, undulating hillsides, passing far above several local doksas. The valley widens and we reach another wonderful campsite called Chumik Marpo, a green doksa colored with high alpine flowers which overlooks rolling green hills ahead. Behind is the route to Kargyak over the 4620 meter Surichun La. (8 – 9½ hrs, 17 km)
Day 22 – Trek Berga Songchak 4410m
We have 2 river crossing this morning, so have your sandals ready as we trek past marmots and local yaks, grazing in the high, green pastures near our campsite. We hike for about 45 minutes to reach a plateau camp, followed by a stone doksa, and then continue along the same side of the river for another hour to reach the wide and cold crossing, our first of the day, a mossy, somewhat slippery one.
Afterwards more trekking amongst green valleys and lovely rolling hills, a little piece of nomadic paradise in the Indian Himalaya. Valleys to the right lead to snow-peaks and the river grows as glacial melt adds to its volume. Lichen covered granite, weather-worn sedimentary rocks and purple flowers dot the landscape; we start to pass long, ancient mani walls signifying that we’re entering nomadic lands. The walking is easy with flat trails and grass underfoot, with a few small climbs en route. We pass more signs of nomadic existence and then have to cross the wide and often difficult Khamberop Togpo (river) at Kham Krap. We may take people over on horses; at the least use poles and link arms; the river is always wide, but generally not very deep.
These next two days, in the lower reaches of the Himalayan peaks, we often pass local ‘gaddi’ shepherds from Lahaul and the neighboring Hindu valleys with their large flocks of sheep and goats as we continue towards Sarchu, past Kyonon doksa. Eroded hoodoos look like stone-age cathedrals on the opposite side of the river. We trek through this wide expanse of river, green valleys, blue sky and snow peaks, past mani stones with chortens carved into them, and over a few small ridges for an hour before heading directly down through the eroded hoodoos to the river and another idyllic campsite at Berga Songchak, right on the relatively clear river. (5 hrs, 13 km)
Day 23 – Trek Chumik Gyartse 4280m
We continue hiking through this magical nomadic Ladakhi landscape, crossing several more small streams and trekking past ancient rocks deposited by glaciers eons ago. There is a small stream to jump and green springs just past camp, after which we climb briefly back up to the plateau and reach a line of Tibetan nomadic doksas.
There are several deep valleys to descend into and climb out of, a few more streams to cross and more green plateaus to hike across until we reach the canyons leading to Sarchu. (Sarchu is across the large Lingti Chu (river) from our campsite at Chumik Gyartse). We descend steeply from the plateau, and just before our old campsite at Sarchu on our side of the river we have a quite large river crossing (depending on the water level). Afterwards, we hike through a briar patch of seabuckthorne, following a spring-fed stream, jumping or wading through a few intersecting streams. Soon we reach a large bridge spanning the Tsarap Chu and hike about 45 minutes north (along a flat trail) towards our wonderful campsite at the waterfall springs just below Chumik Gyartse.
Chumik Gyartse is where the Shun Shade valley inhabitants relocated years ago, and it’s interesting to hike half an hour above our camp to their new village. There is much controversy over whether life was better or worse in their old valley, the elders tending to regret the move. Check out the incredible falls and mineral springs just past camp, well worth a last day’s refreshing Himalayan shower!
Ang Chuk and the drivers will meet us at camp, having parked their jeeps past at the Sarchu army camp on the plateau across the river. We can look across the river to the Leh-Manali highway but our campsite is isolated and beautiful, on the side of a small stream for washings. We’ll have our tips party for the Kamzang Journeys staff tonight; Ang Chuk always brings us our order of beers! (6 hrs, 16 km)
Day 24 – Drive Leh
We have a 20-minute hike upstream and across the bridge, and a last climb up to the embankment, and our epic Ladakh trek through the Indian Himalaya is finished! We’ll relax in the jeeps and enjoy the spectacular 5-hour drive through Rupshu, along the Manali – Leh highway, turn left at Umchi and then drive along the Indus Highway past Hemis, Stakna, Matho and Thikse monasteries, Shey Gompa and its crumbling fortress and eventually Stok palace (on alternating sides of the valley), a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back at the Shaynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori and cold beers are not far away! (5 hrs drive)
Day 25 – Leh
One last day in Leh, our favorite Central Asian capital, in case of delays during the trek. You’ll also have time to do some more shopping and exploring, and to wind down after our journey through the remote routes of Ladakh and Zanskar.
Day 26 – Trip Ends | Transfer Leh Airport
Our wonderful journey through the Indian Himalaya ends today. We will transfer you to the Kushok Bakula Rimpoche Airport for your return journey. You have several options after the trip: a flight back to Delhi, an epic ‘jeep safari’ back to Manali or elsewhere in the Indian Himalaya, or spending more time in Leh. We’re happy to assist on all fronts, but Leh flights are not included in our India treks.
Extra Days in Leh
We are happy to book extra nights at the hotel, or a hotel of your choice, if you want to stay in Leh for a few extra days to explore our favorite Central Asian capital, or just to relax and soak in the mountain scenery. We are also happy to book trips to Nubra, the high lake region (Pangong, Tsomoriri + Tso Kar), sightseeing jeep safaris along the Indus Valley, rafting, bicycling down the Kardung La or any other activity you’d like!
TRAVEL NOTE | If you have successive international flights that are not all part of the same ticket or following domestic flights we suggest planning more cautiously and leaving an extra day in Leh.
Short Itinerary
Days 1 – 10 – See Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek
This section of the trek is the same as the longer trek.
Extra Day – Zangla Doksa River Camp
Finally a rest and exploration day; options are to hang at camp and relax in this sublime setting or to hike up and explore the wonderful and historic Zanskari village of Zangla.
ZANGLA OPTION | Climbing gradually out of our campsite, we hike along the plateau past a weathered rock carved with thousand-year old Mon chortens, soon reaching Zangla Chomo Gompa (nunnery) to the northern side of the village, and then follow the village road past the King of Zangla’s house, where we had tea last summer with the royal residents, including the Queen Mother. The young King of Zangla is now in his 40s, and the new house right next to the somewhat dilapidated royal residence is the house of the village carpenter! The piece de resistance of Zangla, however, is its fortress, presently being restored by an organization called ‘Cosmos Room’. The ruins of the 500 year-old Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the ancient Kings of Zangla, are a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of lookout towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally ‘melted’ the dzong, and it is now quite as safe as it was previously. The famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19th century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room. The fort is guarded over by a giant, new stupa built in 2009, while more ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend back to the village and eventually to camp.
ZANSKAR VALLEY GOMPA OPTION: Get a group together to hire a jeep to visit the fascinating, old gompas of Zanskar from Padum. You will have time to visit the 1000 year old Sani Gompa on the Stod River, the route out to Rangdum and the Suru Valley. From Sani, you can take the back roads to Karsha Gompa, one of the largest and most scenic in Zanskar or Ladakh, built high up into the cliffs above the village of Karsha. To return, you will pass back through Padum where you can do some email or pick up supplies at the many shops. Padum is a very Central Asian feeling village, a transit point for goods coming and going from Leh to Kargil, with a large Muslim population. There are some thousand year old pre-Tibetan Buddhist Buddha carvings just below Padum, worth a look if you’re stopping in town. And pick up a plate of momos on the main drag! En route back to Stongde, make a quick stop at Pipiting Gompa on a small hill in the direction of Stongde. And that should be a full day!
Kim & Lhakpa will head to Padum to resupply for the second half of the trek. Some people might want to head to central Zanskar to make a wonderful Zanskar gompa tour.
Day 11 – Drive Rangdum
Sadly, it’s time to say goodbye to trekkers from the longer trek. You have an incredible jeep safari through Zangla, the Suru Valley and finally the western Indus Valley ahead!
After returning to Padum (option to visit the central Zangla monasteries if you didn’t yesterday), you will drive north from Padum heading for Rangdum. You’ll stay the night at a homestay in Randgum, visiting its historic Rangdum Gompa, perched on top of a small hill in the midst of a wide Tibetan-style valley, guarded by massive, whitewashed chortens. Randum is one of our favorite villages, remote enough to not get many trekkers or visitors, with a distinctly Tibetan look although a bit of Muslim influence, and friendly villagers. You may have the chance to visit a local home, or at least have a cup of salt-butter tea with the homestay owners.
Rangdum Gompa is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery of the Gelugpa sect at the base of the Suru Valley, with about 30 monks, situated next to the small hamlet of Zhuldo. The monastery was constructed about 200 years ago by Gelek Yashy Takpa during the reign of King Tsewang Mangyul of Ladakh. Both the village and the gompa rely on supplies from the Muslim villages of the Suru Valley as their summer growing season is too brief to sustain themselves during the long, harsh winters.
Day 12 – Drive Lamayuru
A continuation of the stunning and intensely intersting Suru Valley jeep safari, today through the Muslim sections of Ladakh. We’ll pass through numerous Muslim villages, where the greeting is ‘As-Salaam-Alaikum’ (peace be with you), to which you answer ‘Wa-Alaikum-Salaam’. The beautiful green and blue-eyed women cover their heads in patterned scarves and wear the colorful and practical salwar kameez. The often bearded men dress in a long, Muslim coat and have a disarmingly direct stare, a genuine smile and lovely crinkled eyes from the harsh sun. En route we drive past the spectacularly beautiful glaciers coming from Nun and Kun peaks, climbed from green base camps to our left as we head north. We drive through Suru village and then continue along this scenic and diverse road until we reach bustling, Mulsim Kargil with its many fruit and vegetable markets. Once past Kargil we turn right (east) and follow the Wakha Chu for an hour or so to scenic Mulbeck, were we’ll stop for lunch an kilometer past town (if we haven’t in Kargil) at a small but clean ‘dhaba’ and gaze at the ancient stone Chamba, an iconic statue carved into the rock face to the right of the road. Chamba (Tibetan) or Maitreya (Sanskrit) is the future Buddha. It is said to date back to the Kushan period of the early 1st or 2nd century. Modern scholars place it in the 8th century. To the front right of the statue is a small Buddhist shrine.
Nearby are ancient inscriptions written in Kharosthi script and an edict issued by King Lde, who ruled western Ladakh in the 15th century, to discontinue sacrificing goats. (Wikipedia): ‘Every year at least once or twice in each village the heart was torn out of a living goat in front of an altar. King Lde had the following inscription carved: “Oh Lama (Tsongkapa (1378-1441) take notice of this! The king of faith, Bum lde, having seen the fruits of works in the future life, gives orders to the men of Mulbe to abolish, above all, the living sacrifices, and greets the Lama. The living sacrifices are abolished.” Sadly, the people of Mulbekh found this too onerous to follow, for beside King Lde’s edict, on the same rock, is an inscription saying the order was too hard to be executed. “For what would the local deity say, if the goat were withheld from him?” ‘
Kushan Empire (Wikipedia) – ‘The Kushans spread from the Kabul River Valley to encompass much of the Indo-Greek Kingdom, from which they took their first official language (Greek), Bactrian alphabet, Greco-Buddhist religion, coinage system, and art. They absorbed the Central Asian tribes that had previously conquered parts of the northern central Iranian Plateau once ruled by the Parthians,[citation needed] and reached their peak under the Buddhist emperor Kanishka the Great, whose realm stretched from Turfan in the Tarim Basin to Pataliputra on the Gangetic Plain. During the 1st and early 2nd centuries CE, the Kushans expanded across the northern parts of the Indian subcontinent at least as far as Saketa and Sarnath near Varanasi (Benares), where inscriptions have been found dating to the era of the Kushan emperor Kanishka the Great, which began about 127 CE. Though Kanishka greatly honored Buddhism, he is said to have protected the teachings of Zoroastrianism and Hinduism as well. Kanishka sent his armies north of the Karakoram mountains. They captured territories as far as Kashgar, Khotan and Yarkant, in the Tarim Basin of modern-day Xinjiang, China. A direct road from Gandhara to China was opened which remained under Kushan control for more than a century. The security offered by the Kushans encouraged travel across the Khunjerab Pass and facilitated the spread of Mahayana Buddhism to China.’
History lesson over, you depart this history-laden spot and continue on towards Lamayuru, two hours of winding roads, crossing two small passes (the larger the Photu La 4090m) followed by the dramatic switchback to Lamayuru Gompa, with several wonderful viewpoints en route.
Once in Lamayuru you will check in to the Moonland Hotel and have time to visit Lamayuru Monastery in the evening. The light at dusk is sublime, and the hotel is perfectly situated to photograph the monastery as the sun sets …
Day 13 – Drive Leh
You can stop at the gompa to visit the chapels in the morning before continueing the descent to the intersection of the road leading to Wanla and the start of the traditional Ladakh to Zanskar trek on the right of the river at the Yapola River. Another half an hour on a good, paved road and we meet and cross the mighty Indus, locally known as the Sengee Kha Babs (mouth of the lion river). Our scenic drive continues past the turnoff to Alchi, Basgo, the intersection of the Zanskar and Indus rivers, Spikuk Gompa and finally Leh, which is about three hours of driving from Lamayuru.
You’ll have the opportunity to visit any or all of these monasteries en route if you choose. Back at the Shaynam or Omasila in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and a delicious Asian fusion meal is not far away at Chopsticks.
Day 14 – Trip Ends | Transfer Leh Airport
Our wonderful Himalayan journey ends today. We will transfer you to the Kushok Bakula Rimpoche Airport for your return journey. You have several options after the trip: a flight back to Delhi, an epic ‘jeep safari’ back to Manali or elsewhere in the Indian Himalaya, or spending more time in Leh. We’re happy to assist on all fronts, but Leh flights are not included in our India treks.
Highlights & Reviews
Trip Advisor Reviews
Client Highlights Reviews
Travelers’ Comments
Trip Highlights
- Exotic Leh & the historic Indus Valley
- Dramatic canyonlands
- The best of Zanskar & Ladakh
- Wild Shade – Zangla route
- Remote Bear Valley
- Zangla Palace & Fort
- Canyons, river crossings & far-flung villages
- Tibetan Buddhist gompas of Zanskar
- Challenging trekking & high passes
- Sublime Himalayan scenery
- Central Asian wildlife
- Few other trekkers & our secret routes!
- Extra days for exploration …
Client Highlights
A truly outstanding trek experience; Kim and her team are amazing! This is the second Kamzang Journeys trek I have taken. Every aspect of the trip was well planned and executed. The entire team is professional and make every effort to make the trip an outstanding experience. If you are considering a trek, Kamzang Journeys is the company to go with!
– Vernon G (USA), Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2019
A fabulous trekking company! I trekked with Kamzang Journeys in the Indian Himalayas – Ladakh and Zanskar – for two months this summer. Our leader Kim Bannister, the guides, and staff were all excellent. Meals were delicious, healthful, and varied. Our individual tents were spacious, and I appreciate the fact that there is no single supplement. Though the trails were sometimes challenging and the elevations high, we stayed healthy and happy for the entire two months, a rarity when trekking for this amount of time at high elevations. Kamzang Journeys’ trips are an excellent value, especially when you factor in all of the luxuries we enjoyed. Thank you Kamzang Journeys!
– Jasmine S (USA), Ladakh Nomads, Lakes & High Passes AND Wild West Ladakh & Zanskar Traverse Treks 2018
This was a fabulous trek in the high Himalayas! Kim Bannister, the owner of the company and the main guide on this trip, was knowledgeable about the area, the route and the people. She went above and beyond to take care of all the trekker’s needs and make sure everyone was comfortable. The staff and the horsemen were competent, helpful and friendly. The overall experience was excellent and I would definitely do another trip with Kamzang Journeys.
– Brooke Saindon (USA), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2018
High passes, nomads and wild, remote country; adventure is never far! I have just returned from two months trekking in the Ladakh-Zanskar region in India with Kim and her excellent team. This was my SEVENTH trek with Kim and I would have to say they get better each year. Kamzang Journeys never disappoints. From the very high standard, variety and amount of food, to the spacious 3-man tents (for each individual), to the safety and care shown by her staff and to the unique dining tent that all other groups envy. If you are looking for a remote, interesting trek or trip in Asia I would highly recommend Kamzang Journeys. There is a reason everyone comes back!
– Sue W (Australia), Nomads, Lakes + High Passes AND Wild Ladakh Zanskar Traverse Treks 2018
Fabulous trekking in a fabulous region! I love Ladakh and came here first in 1981 (trekking from Manali to Leh). I’ve been back six times (now) since and all of the six have been with Kim Bannister and Kamzang Journeys. She and her crew find superb remote routes (and avoid the ever increasing road network); their attention to the comfort of the well being of the customers is second to none. There is no single supplement it is assumed you’ll have your own (large) tent which makes daily routine so much easier and more enjoyable with plenty of room to have your kit in your tent. The dining tent is erected as soon as you are in camp and provides tea/coffee biscuits and a nice place to sit in between meals. Trekking in Ladakh in June – September is ‘summer’ so the days are quite long (light by 5.30 a.m. and not dark until 7.30 p.m. in July) so having had a day’s walking you get into camp with plenty of daylight left and you can wash yourself and any clothes and both will dry. It also provides time to relax in the sun. The weather is lovely; hot days (shirtsleeves) and cool nights are perfect for sleeping. Very little in the way of biting insects! Kim’s cooks are super and the menus great with lots of fresh vegetables and fresh fruit (and she arranges for a mid trek re-supply of these). Breakfasts are varied … porridge, eggs (of your choice), and a daily ‘baked product’. Superb ahead of a day’s walking. Hygiene standards are super … I’ve never had an upset stomach on trek with Kim … an excellent first aid kit is carried for any needs that may arise. Can’t recommend them enough … they’re a happy team (and it’s the same crew year after year). One of the last great wilderness regions of the world and one of the few trekking destinations where the optimum time to go is during the European summer holidays!
– Sally L (UK), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2018
Outstanding trekking adventure, first class guides and personal attention – this is why Kamzang has so many repeat clients! We trekked with Kim Bannister and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa for 22 days through remote Zanskar in Aug 2014. It was the adventure of a lifetime. Kim has many years experience and a loyal team of support staff and horsemen. Food and camping were very well organized; Kim and Lhakpa lead us through stunning scenery into remote Zanskari villages. Their detailed local knowledge and ability to speak with villagers made for a memorable rich experience. Over high passes and crossing rivers we always were in good hands. Thoroughly recommended if you really want to trek off the map.
– David R. & Kathy F (Canada), Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2014
This was the third time I’ve trekked with Kamzang Journeys and Kim and her crew it was lovely to be back amongst friends. Ladakh is a fabulous destination and a real step back in time to ‘real’ travelling. Trekking with Kim and her crew is authentic but also luxurious; a single tent as standard, the ‘Festival Tent’ for relaxation and meals, hot water for tea/coffee on ‘tap’, and great standards of cooking! No fears of food poisoning as hygiene is excellent. If you’re stuck with June – September for your long Himalayan trekking Ladakh is the place to go and Kim and Kamzang Journeys are the people to go with!
– Sally L (UK), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek, Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek & more
A bucket list must, and an expeditionary style adventure in a pristine environment. All at the good hands of Kim Bannister, the organizational wizard, and her extraordinary staff. Kim and her guide partner Lhakpa Dorji led us on an idyllic route through the remote and beautiful Ladakh & Zanskar region of northern India. My initial apprehensions, as a first time trekker, were quickly extinguished by the friendly and professional manner of the competent staff. It was the experience of a life time, certainly one that I will never forget. This trekking company deserves a “5 star rating”! You need only bring a good set of lungs, a strong pair of legs, a zest for adventure and a sense of humor. I will return!
– Tom B (USA), Ladakh & Zanskar Kora Trek 2013
Magnificent treks and highly professional! I have trekked with Kim four times, three in Ladakh in Northern India and one in Nepal. On all four occasions the treks were very well organised and run in a very professional manner. Kim’s crew are all enthusiastic and are very happy to provide assistance where necessary. As trekkers you are very well looked after with individual tents and a large tent for socializing and dining. Kim and Lhakpa plan their treks so they are interesting and that they go off the beaten track and you are not walking in procession with other trekking groups, Kim is aware of the different needs and capabilities of her trekkers and her daily itineraries cater for all. On the more challenging parts of her treks Kim and her crew are always there to support. I hope to do more trekking with Kim and Kamzang Journeys and highly recommend them.
– Dennis B (Australia), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2015, Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2013 ++
Thank you very much for a wonderful trek. I felt so very well looked after, from great food to river crossings to much needed breaks and always someone to see that we did not feel lost or alone. Your attention to detail, from the shopping expeditions both in Leh and along the way, from the variety and quality of food to making sure that everything we needed was provided and easy to access, is amazing. Also your energy and generosity of time and spirit in those extra expeditions to nomad tents, the fort etc. when many leaders would have signed off for the day.
– Leslie S (Australia), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2012
I have done a number of treks with a variety of companies. One of these treks was to Ladakh, India with Kamzang. I found the trek’s organization and quality of food to be excellent. Equally important was Kim’s knowledge of the cultures that we trekked through, so that we, as relative outsiders, could gain some insight into their lives. However, two things stand out. Kim’s infectious enthusiasm: not just for the landscapes and cultures we passed through but for dad-to-day life on the trek. Secondly, the shared ‘mess-tent’, a haven of comfort and conversation. Very highly recommended.
– Roger E (UK), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2011
What a trip! Thanks for all your hard work and imagination. Truly a spectacular journey and the clientele you attracted was a magnificent bonus.
– Chris R (USA), Wild Ladakh & Rupshu Trek
Wow! What an unforgettable experience you have given me. I was constantly amazed at your patience with the individual needs and concerns of the group and of the heartfelt care and connection you have with your staff and horses. You are a great leadership team and a joy to wake up to each morning! The landscape, the interactions with the villagers, nuns and monks along the way, the exhileration of the more risky bits of the trip and your smiling faces will not be forgotten. Thank you & Jullay!
– Annie K (New Zealand), Wild Zanskar 2010
I think about you and Lhakpa and everybody a lot; and I miss the trek, the beautiful mountains, the amazing sceneries and rich culture there. Every time when I go through my trekking photos, the memories of those great moments come back to me, speaking to me and asking me why I haven’t packed my gears and signed up for my next Himalaya trip?!
– Summer T (China), Wild Ladakh Zanskar Traverse
I have been on treks with Kim four times. All her trips are superbly well organized and smoothly run. Everything is take care of. The food is great and accommodation good. The only thing you have to do is the walking. It’s a five star service and great value!
– Peter H (UK), Ladakh & Zanskar Treks ++
Kim Bannister Photography | Trek & Travel Photos
Himalayan Trip Photos
Kamzang Journeys Menus
Camp Menus
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Articles & Documentaries | Ladakh & Zanskar, Indian Himalaya
Kamzang Journeys | The Ladakh Great Himalayan Bicycle Trip | David Koelle | YouTube Video
Stunning Time Lapse of Ladakh in 4K | Reels & Frames
Becoming a Woman in Zanskar | Jean-Michel Corillion
Ladakh Diaries | Postcard from Paradise | India Today – Features Kamzang Journeys
Nomads in Ladakh: Hard Living at Altitude | Blog by France LeClerc
On Snow Leopard Mountain | BBC Planet Earth
Child Monks of the Himalayas | BBC – In Pictures
Chang Tang Pa | Cat Vinton Photo Essay
Silent Roar, The Snow Leopard | National Geographic Documentary
Shepherdess of the Glaciers | Trailer YouTube
Ladakh, Mountains & Men | Le Figaro
Blog Article | Za Rahula Local Nomadic God
Ladakh, the Last Shangri La | National Geographic
A Journey to Little Tibet | National Geographic
Legends of Dha Hanu | Stephan Kloos
India: Extreme Biking in Beautiful Ladakh | The Telegraph UK
The Grey Ghosts of the Mountains | Vimeo
Kashmir, the Inheritance of Loss | New York Times
Cracking India’s Mystifying Nod Code – BBC Travel
The Ravishing Art of Alchi – NY Times Books
The Planet Doesn’t Need Money, It Needs Behavioral Change: Sonam Wanchuk | The Week
A Brother’s Five Decade Search for a Lost King From Ladakh | A Better India
The Ice Stupas | New Yorker
Yak Herders’ Vanishing Way of Life | New York Times
Himalaya, Land of Women | Marianne Chaud ZED Arte France
Our World Return to Zanskar | BBC
Kashmir & Srinagar
A Journey to Kashmir’s Gurez Valley | NY Times
Kashmir, the Inheritance of Loss | New York Times
What is Article 270 & Why Does it Matter in Kashmir? | New York Times
Haider | Film about Kashmir
Fascinating Delhi & India Article Series
Jungle Prince of Delhi | NY Times
Mystery of the Royal Family of Oudh Unravels a Bit More | NY Times
Special Episode | The Jungle Prince | NY Times
Street Food in India | India Mike Blog
Gandhi & India | BBC Documentaries
In Search of Gandhi | BBC Documentary
The Making of the Mahatma – Part 1
The Rise to Fame – Part 2
The Road to Freedom – Part 3
Ladakh Cycling Videos
Nubra – Wari La Cycle | David Koelle
Lamayuru, Leh, Nubra + Khardung La Cycle – | David Koelle
Pangong Lake + Chang La Cycle | David Koelle
Srinagar – Lamayuru Cycle | David Koell
Leh – Manali Cycle | David Koelle
Kamzang Journeys | Ladakh Trek Videos
Kamzang Journeys | Kharnak Nomads | MennoBen
Kamzang Journeys | Markha Valley | MennoBen
Kamzang Journeys | Changthang Nomads | MennoBen
Kamzang Journeys | Rupshu Nomads | MennoBen
Leh + Indus Valley | MennoBen
Date & Price
2025 Dates
13 Aug – 6 Sept
25 Days
13 Aug – 1 Sept
20 Days
$4880 (25 Days)
$4480 (20 Days)
+ NO Single Supplement Shaynam Hotel
+ NO Single Supplement Camping
+ Flights NOT Included (Meet Leh)
+ Short Trek Prices Include 3-Day Jeep Safaris to Leh
Includes
- Hotels in Leh (Breakfast)
- NO Single Supplement for Camping!
- Restricted Area Permits
- Personalized Leh Sightseeing (With Kim)
- Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
- Airport Transfers
- Optional Rafting or Cycling Trips
- Kamzang Journeys Boutique Trekking
Single Northface tents (2+3 person tents), delicious, plentiful meals with seasonal, fresh produce, French Press organic coffee, Indian Chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, trek library of books, full medical kit, our Kamzang ‘lounge’ tent with Indian cotten rugs, Crazy Creek camp chairs, blankets + occasional music in the evenings. For support, our caravan of horses + mules, Western, Sherpa + local guides and our 5-Star Kamzang Journeys team. Highlight is our signature yellow Kamzang dining tent’. NO single supplement for single tents. AND flexibility, experience, adventure, safety, challenge + fun!
Safety & Health Precautions
- Oxygen (cost not included)
- Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
- PAC Bag (portable oxygen chamber)
- Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
- Katadyn Filtered Water
- Safe, Sanitary, Delicious + Plentiful Food + Drinks
Excludes
- Domestic + International Fights
- Indian Visa
- Lunch + Dinner in Leh
- Travel + Travel Health Insurance
- Equipment Rental
- Alcohol + Bottled Drinks
- Gompa (Monastery) Donations
- Laundry (staff will do for donations)
- Tips
Hotels in Leh | Extra Nights & Boutique Hotels
We use Hotel Shaynam, Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Ladakh, Leh Plaza & Hotel Omasila, as our arrival hotels depending on availability and your room preferences. Our standard hotel with no single supplement charge is the Hotel Shaynam. Kim and the Kamzang Journeys staff stay here, a lovely family-run guest house with a blooming garden, deck chairs, tables and umbrellas. We offer upgrade and single supplement charges for Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Leh, Hotel Leh Plaza and Omasila. We will book all hotels for you regardless of where you stay, so please specify your preference when booking a trek. Breakfast included in all of the hotels.
Hotel Shaynam
Hotel Shaynam
Extra Nights – Single $35 | Double $40
Hotel Chospa | Upgrade Charge
Chospa Hotel
Heritage Rooms – Single $165 | Double $185 Night ($825 & $925 Trip)
Hotel Chospa | Extra Nights
Heritage Rooms – Single $200 | Double $225
Hotel Padma Ladakh | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Padma Ladakh
Garden Rooms – $10 Night Single & Double ($50 Trip)
Deluxe Rooms – $50 Night Single & Double ($250 Trip)
Super Deluxe Rooms – $80 Night Single & Double ($400 Trip)
Premium Rooms with Balcony – $100 Night Single & Double ($500 Trip)
Hotel Padma Ladakh | Extra Nights
Garden Rooms – Single $45 | Double $55
Deluxe Rooms – Single $90 | Double $105
Super Deluxe Rooms – Single $120 | Double $135
Premium Rooms – Single $145 | Double $160
Hotel Leh Plaza | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Leh Plaza
Super Deluxe Rooms – $40 Night Single & Double ($200 Trip)
Premium Rooms – $65 Night Single & Double ($325 Trip)
Hotel Leh Plaza | Extra Nights
Super Deluxe Rooms – Single $75 | Double $95
Premium Rooms – Single $100 | Double $120
Hotel Omasila | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Omasila
Heritage Rooms – $40 Night Single & Double ($200 Trip)
Suite Rooms – $90 Night Single & Double ($450 Trip)
Hotel Omasila | Extra Nights
Heritage Rooms -– Single $65 | Double $75
Suite Rooms – Single $125 | Double $135
Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $300 for meals (while not on trip), drinks (on trip) and tips. We recommend $350 per person thrown into the tips pool for the crew.
Contact & Details
Kamzang Journeys
https://kamzangjourneys.com/
kim@kamzang.com, kamzangkim@gmail.com
info@kamzang.com
Kim Bannister, Chez Kim, Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Nepal
Kamzang Journeys LLC, USA
India Contacts
Kim Mobile: +(91) 9419 981715, 9103 666078
Lhakpa Mobile: +(91) 9419 977569, 70067 70368
Kim’s WhatsApp: +(977) 9803 414745
Lhakpa’s WhatsApp +(977) 9841 235461 (WhatsApp)
Khumbu Adventures (Nepal)
Lhakpa, Doma & Nuru Sherpa
Lhakpa Mobile: +(977) 9841 235461 (WhatsApp), 9823 905461
Doma Mobile: +(977) 9841 510833, 9803 675361
Nuru Wangdi Mobile: +(977) 9803633783 (WhatsApp)
www.khumbuadventures.com
hiking.guide@gmail.com, nuruwangdi@gmail.com
Srinagar & Kashmir Contact
Shangaloo Travels
Mehraj Deen (GM & Ladakh Operations)
mehraj@shanglootravels.com
Mehraj Mobile: +(91) 9419013874, 9858986512
Office: +(91) 0194 2502083
Shangaloo Travels Tel : +(91) 0194 2502082-90, +(91) 9596 787001-20
On-Trek Contact
We are not able to use our satellite phone in India or Ladakh because of security restrictions. In case of emergency, a few numbers are listed below, or contact Doma or Nuru Sherpa of Khumbu Adventures in Nepal. We sometimes have access to landlines during the trek, and will try to use our Garmin InReach for text messaging.
Padma Deachen Mobile (Shaynam Hotel): +(91) 70510 49977 (WhatsApp)
Jigme Mobile (Shaynam Hotel): +(91) 96229 96242 (WhatsApp)
Jigmet Punchok (Driver & Leh Company – Adventures La): +(91) 99062 49085 (WhatsApp)
Ang Chuk Mobile (Driver & Friend): +(91) 94193 44641 (WhatsApp)
Tenzin Wanga Email (Ang Chuk’s Son): tenzinw5@gmail.com
Communications on Trek | Garmin InReach Messaging Service
Kamzang Journeys has a Garmin MapShare page for sending + receiving messages to our Garmin InReach satellite messaging device. Give this link to friends + family who want to follow our progress on the trek, have them send us a message so we have their email in the system. We can message them back directly, email works better than texts. Messages are free, enjoy.
https://share.garmin.com/KimBannister
Kim will post InReach updates to the Kamzang Journeys Facebook page.
Satellite Phones & Drones in India
Satellite phone, Garmin InReach, SPOT or satellite communications of any sort are STRICTLY PROHIBITED in India! Serious consequences, please leave yours at home! Drones are also illegal in Jammu & Kashmir unless registered with the appropriate government office in Delhi.
Kamzang Journeys FaceBook
https://www.facebook.com/kamzangjourneys/
Posts from Leh before + after the trek.
Kamzang Journeys | Kim Bannister Photography
https://kimbannisterphotography.smugmug.com/
Kamzang Journeys Blog
https://www.kamzangjourneys.com/kamzang-journeys-blog/
Shop Kamzang Journeys Products
https://www.kamzangjourneys.com/store/
Shop Kamzang Design
https://www.etsy.com/shop/KamzangDesign
The Kamzang Fund
Sponsoring Children, Medical Issues and Giving Back to Himalayan regions.
https://www.kamzangjourneys.com/kamzang-fund/
Travel Books
https://www.kamzangjourneys.com/kamzang-journeys-travel-books/
Arrival Hotels Leh
Hotel Shaynam
Hotel Omasila
Padma Guest House
Hotels in Leh | Alternative & Luxury Hotels
We use Hotel Shaynam, Padma Guest House or Hotel Omasila as our arrival hotel, depending on availability and your preference. Our standard hotel is the Hotel Shaynam where Kim and the Kamzang Journeys staff stay, a lovely family-run guest house with a blooming garden, deck chairs, tables + umbrellas. We don’t charge a single supplement at Hotel Shayman. We charge a single supplement for Omasila and Padma, and a double upgrade for Omasila. We will book all hotels for you regardless of where you stay. Please specify your preference when booking a trek. Breakfast included in all of the hotels.
Leh Alternative & Luxury Hotels
We will confirm current prices yearly, please inquire …
Alternative Hotels
We’re happy to book other hotels of your choice. Some recommended hotels below.
Hotel Royal Ladakh
Single Supplement – $225
Extra Nights – Single $80, Double $90, Suite $115
Breakfast Included
Dragon Hotel
Single Supplement – $200
Extra Nights – Single $70, Double $80, Suite $120
Breakfast Included
Luxury Hotels
Spash out on one of Leh’s most luxurious hotels! We will be happy to make any bookings needed. Enjoy!
The Grande Dragon Ladakh
Single Deluxe $220, Single Suite $210
Breakfast Included
The Zen Ladakh
Single/Double Premium $155/$180
Zen Cottage – $250
Executive Suite – $310
Presidential Suite – $340
Nimmu House
Nimmu Village (45 Minutes from Leh)
4 Rooms + 5 Tents
Single/Double Rooms – $170/$190
Single/Double Luxury Tents – $185/$205
Pangong Serai
Single Supplement – $50 Per Night
Extra Nights – $50
Breakfast Included
Lunch + Dinner – $20 Per Meal
Travel Medical Insurance
Required for your own safely. We carry a copy of your insurance with all contact, personal and policy information with us on the trek and our office in Kathmandu keeps a copy. Note that we almost always trek over 4000 meters (13,000+ feet) and that we don’t do any technical climbing with ropes, ice axes or crampons.
Note that private helicopter insurance generally not available in India!
Travel Medical & Travel Insurance
TRAVEL MEDICAL INSURANCE is required to travel with us. We strongly recommend TRAVEL INSURANCE as well in case of international or domestic flight cancellation or unexpected costs on the trip such as helicopters when flights are cancelled or passes are impassible. Your insurance must include HELICOPTER EVACUATION and travel over 4000 meters (over 13,000 feet). In INDIA and TIBET helicopter evacuation is more difficult, although we still recommend including this option in your policy. Please do your own research, check with your local insurance provider for the company best for your country, age and trip requirements.
INSURANCE NOTE | Please bring us a PRINTED PAGE with your name, address, personal emergency contact, insurance policy name and number and the overseas contact number to call in case of emergency for us to give to our local agents (we don’t need the particulars, just a one-page copy of the policy).
Global Rescue Services
Safety is our top priority, but unforeseen emergencies can occur on any trek, cycling trip or journey. A Global Rescue membership will provide you with 24 hour advisory services, field rescue (evacuation from your point of injury or illness to the nearest appropriate medical facility), and also evacuation to your home hospital of choice for continuing care all at no cost to you. You can purchase the coverage directly from Kamzang Journeys, with or without the IMG travel medical insurance coverage.
Global Rescue Services
Global Rescue & IMG Travel Medical Insurance
https://globalrescue.com/kamzang/
Travel Medical Insurance Suggestions
Travel Guard & AIG Travel Insurance
http://www.travelguard.com/
HTH Travel Insurance
https://www.hthtravelinsurance.com/
Allianz Care Travel Insurance
https://www.allianzcare.com/en/personal-international-health-insurance/travel-insurance.html
Adventure Sports Cover 360
https://asc360.com/
TravelEx Insurance
https://www.travelexinsurance.com/
AXA Travel Insurance
https://www.axatravelinsurance.com/
CoverMore Travel Insurance
https://www.covermore.com/
World Nomads Travel Insurance
http://www.worldnomads.com/
Seven Corners Travel Insurance
https://www.sevencorners.com/insurance/HW35TW3
Generali Global Insurance
https://us.generaliglobalassistance.com/
World Trips Atlas Travel Insurance
https://www.worldtrips.com/travel/insurance/Atlas-International-Insurance/
Ripcord Travel Insurance
http://www.ripcordrescuetravelinsurance.com/
International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) – FREE Membership
www.iamat.org
Helicopter Service & Rescues Leh, Ladakh
Please pass on this information to your travel medical insurance provider …
HeliService Ladakh (Government Agency)
https://heliservice.ladakh.gov.in/
+91 01982-255567, contact@heliservice.ladakh.gov.in
Ladakh Rescue Center
Mr. Nasir Mohd
+91 96229 98919, 94194 41333, nasiradvo786@gmail.com
Working together with:
Pawan Hans Helicopter Service (Government Regulated))
https://www.pawanhans.co.in/english/index.aspx
Medical
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs etc. but please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety.
DO bring all prescription medications and good rehydration/electrolytes. We advise bringing your own Diamox, Ciprofloxin, Azithromyacin & Augmentin. We have all of these with us but the Western versions are always better than the Indian equivalents.
PAC Bag & Oxygen
We carry a Portable Oxygen Chamber, or Gammow Bag, with us on many treks. There is no charge for use of the PAC bag but oxygen is $300 per canister (cost price, pass on to insurance company).
Health Information
India Health Information
CDC
We also recommend bringing probiotics with you to help prevent infections while on trek. Doctor’s recommendation!
Arrival India
Arrival in India
ARRIVAL NOTE | Flights to/from Leh are NOT included in the price or itinerary. Everyone will need to arrange their own flight or overland trip to Leh. You can book your international flights all the way to Leh, Ladakh (IXL) which will ensure that your flight provider is responsible for hotels if your flight is delayed or cancelled. You might also want to come overland from Manali, breath-taking jeep safari, or from Srinagar, both some of the planet’s most spectacular drives.
Email us your flight arrival details and have our contact details with you when you arrive in Delhi in case you need assistance. Kim will have her mobile with her, as will our agents from Dhruv Travels, so don’t hesitate to call. We can help with hotels, flights, airport pick-ups and drops, sightseeing in Delhi or travels further to Rajasthan or Agra & the Taj Mahal (see Dhruv Travels).
GET YOUR INDIAN VISA
You can get your Indian e-Visas (visa-on-arrival) online, either at the Indian government website or at the easier, and slightly more expensive iVisa website. Extensions are possible but very difficult. You must have your visa BEFORE arriving in India!
INDIAN GOVERNMENT SITE
https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/evisa/tvoa.html
https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/evisa/Registrationi
VISA
https://www.ivisa.com/india-visa-application
INDIAN VISA REFERENCE & ADDRESSES
Hotel Leh: Shaynam Hotel, 20 Old Leh Road, Leh, Ladakh, 194101
+(91) 70510 49977
Contact: Jigmet Singay Dadul &/or Padma Deachen
Mobile: +91 70510 49977 (Padma)
Mobile: +91 96229 96242 (Jigmet)
EXAMPLE:
Reference Name: Padma Deachen
Address: 20 Old Leh Road
Line 2: Ladakh
State: Jammu & Kashmir (or Ladakh, when the system is updated)
District: Leh
Phone: 70510 49977 (don’t need +91)
NOTE: Don’t add spaces or +country code when adding your phone or mobile numbers.
Travel Agent Delhi: Dhruv Travels, 2464, Nalwa St, Chuna Mandi, Paharganj, New Delhi, 110055 (Tel: +91 11 2358 2715)
Kim’s Mobile: +(91) 9419 981715
Satellite Phones & Drones
Satellite phones are ILLEGAL in all of India, including Jammu & Kashmir. If you are caught with a satellite phone, SPOT, Garmin InReach or another satellite device it will be confiscated, you will be fined and the owner might go to jail or be restricted from re-entering India. This is serious!
Drones are also illegal in Jammu & Kashmir unless registered with the government in Delhi.
Delhi Hotels
Some suggestions for extra nights + layovers in Delhi, near the airport
Marriott Aero City
The Muse Sarovar
Red Fox
Holiday Inn (Airport)
Andaz Delhi
Architectural Digest Article on Andaz
Delhi Restaurants & Bars
Zomato Restaurant Reviews
Notes on Itinerary
Although we try to follow the itinerary below, it is ONLY a guideline based on years of experience trekking in the Himalaya. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group’s acclimatization rate or sickness.
The Himalaya are our passion, and we take trekking seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure …
Temperatures & Clothing
Dress conservatively in Leh and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are okay if they aren’t too short, mini skirts aren’t recommended. Sleeveless t-shirts are absolutely fine, but perhaps avoid tank-tops on the trail. Super tight doesn’t go over so well with the village elders. Many of the younger generation in Nepal wear modern Indian or Western-influenced clothes, but remember that you haven’t signed up for a beach or surf vacation. Use your good judgment, be an ambassador for western tourists! Please ask Kim or your guide if unsure about appropriate clothing.
Leh is generally very hot during the day (t-shirt weather) and cool at night (long sleeve shirt, fleece or synthetic jacket weather depending on month in the summer). A sun hat is essential during the day, sandals like Keens perfect for both a wander around town and trekking. Ladakh is very casual, a pair of jeans and shirt fine for evenings.
Trekking temperatures vary considerably, and you will need a wide range of trekking gear during the trek. Gear will range from sandals to boots, from t-shirts to down jackets. We suggest packing a warm sleeping bag, and bring layers. A full discussion of gear on ‘Gear’ tab.
Cultural Issues
Ladakhis are very open and welcoming, but there are a few issues you should be aware of to make your stay in Ladakh more fulfilling. Use your right hand to pass things, shake hands or do most anything. Left hands are somewhat taboo. Best not to pat kids on heads, or point feet ahead of you at monasteries. Don’t walk over someone’s legs or feet, but put your hand down in front of you to signal them to pull their legs to the side. Take off shoes and hats when going into Buddhist monasteries and Hindu temples, don’t use flashes inside monasteries or temples in general, be respectful of a puja (prayer ceremony) if attending one. You can talk, all religious are very tolerant, but be aware of your level of voice.
Ladakhis don’t anger quickly, so try not to raise your voice if exasperated or angry as it only will make a situation worse. Do bargain at shops, with taxis and rickshaws, but don’t fleece them. They are poor and making a living, generally.
Give small donations on the streets if you choose, but try not to encourage begging too much. Be aware of who you are giving money to, and please only give small amounts. If you do want to donate to a cause, ask about our Kamzang Fund or other responsible organizations.
Note that Leh and Ladakh are melting pots of different religions: Buddhist, Hindu and Muslim, as well as a few Christians. Tolerance and acceptance of all religions tolerated!
Pampering Yourself in Leh
Inquire if you’re interested in staying in one of Leh’s high end hotels. A few suggestions …
Stok Palace
‘Built entirely by the Ladakhi craftsmen in 1820, the Stok Palace still continues to be a snug abode for the Namgyal dynasty. The Namgyal dynasty traces its origin to its founder –Lhachen Palgygon as early as 10th century. You are entering a historical property and the Palace stands 195 years old. The Stok Palace was opened to public in 1980 with blessings of His Holiness the Dalai Lama and since it’s been over a decade and visitors continues to pour from all over the World. It encapsulates and reflects the lifestyle and history of Royalties set in the midst of the valley of Singey Sangpo which is known more popularly as Indus River.
Preserved from urbanity, this pristine natural landscape allows you to relax in serene atmosphere, pregnant with the delicious aroma of the country side and amazing views all around and takes the visitors through the imagery experience, detailing the softness of Snow, the brilliance of sunlight, billowing clouds, wandering pathways, and picturesque local architecture. As with anything embracing the grandeur and beauty of nature, the landscapes achieve a sense of timelessness; they envelop the echoes and silence of eons gone by. So come and enjoy the fine dining experience prepared from the family kitchen products coming from the local market and village. You can enjoy the pleasures of healthy and natural Ladakhi, Tibetan and Indian food.’
Nimmu House
‘Nimmu House Ladakh is a sustainable Hotel in Ladakh, 30 km from Leh, in the village of Nimmoo. A noble house belonging to the cousin of the king of Ladakh, from the early 90s, surrounded by an orchard. Nimmu House includes five spacious tents scattered across the orchard and a room located in the house. Activities include Hiking, trekking, rafting, cooking classes, visits to the village of Nimmu and the monasteries of the Indus Valley’
The Ultimate Traveling Camp
‘The first truly mobile luxury camps in India covering a calendar of destinations and festivals. This nomadic super luxury camp introduces the discerning traveller to different adventures in Carefully selected exceptional locations in the mountains, deserts, jungles and unexplored Countryside. Experience the many moods of exotic India with its dramatic landscapes, rustic and unexplored rural surroundings. Rediscover yourself…meet gurus from the far reaches of the Himalayas, raft down the River Indus, watch a game of Polo, a sport of the Royals, picnic in picturesque spots, celebrate tribal hues at the Hornbill Festival, explore quaint tribal Naga villages, or simply curl up in your ‘tent with a view’!
Tips for Staff
We recommend at least $200 per person to go into the tip pool for the staff. Please bring IC with you on the trek for the tips. It’s nice to buy the staff drinks on the last night. Or any other night that you feel like getting them a bottle of run!
Tips in General
Tips are always appreciated but they don’t need to be extravagant. 50 IC to carry bags to/from your room is fine. 100 IC for drivers to/from the airport. Round up taxi fares. A larger tip would be expected for a day trip in a car, perhaps 500 IC. 10% is included in some restaurant and hotel bills in India, and if it’s not included it’s still expected. Check your bills, and still round up at restaurants. Feel free to give out small change to the beggars in the streets (5, 10, 20 IC).
Cash & ATMs
You’ll want some cash with you on the trek for drinks, snacks, beer, sodas, etc. There are often chances to during the trek, and usually local crafts to buy en route. (You’ll want your tip money IC as well). There are ATMs in Leh but they don’t dispense large amounts of cash so you’ll be best with currency to change. Traveler’s checks not recommended in India.
Extra Days in India | Customize Your Journey
We are happy to book extra nights at the hotel, or a hotel of your choice, if you want to stay in Leh for a few extra days to explore our favorite Central Asian capital, or just to relax and soak in the mountain scenery. We are also happy to book trips to Nubra, sightseeing jeep safaris along the Indus Valley, rafting, bicycling down the Kardung La or any other activity you would like.
See our Extensions Tab for trip ideas!
Gear
Kamzang Journeys Products
Kamzang Journeys duffel bags, t-shirts, camp towels and buffs. Handcrafted leather passport wallets, totes and bags, unique Himalayan textile pillow covers, cashmere stoles and more!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Gear List
A guideline, not a bible, for the gear you will (probably) need on the trek. Do ask (or send gear links) if you have questions! Everyone has their own method of gearing-ups for the mountain, so although these suggestions are based on 20+ years in the Himalayan regions, they may not be exactly what you bring on a trek. Layers are essential for trekking, and quality is more important than quantity. It’s worth investing in some new, warm, lightweight trekking gear! Kim will check your gear before the trek, if needed.
One duffel bag per person. The airline regulations in Nepal (not applicable to India) allow 15 kg per person for mountain flights (including your daypack). We find ways to adjust, but be aware of this limitation and try to limit your duffel bag and daypack to 20 kg (50 lbs) total. 20 kg (50 lbs) is also the weight limit for our treks, although we’re a bit flexible.
- Duffel Bag
- Day Pack (30-40 L)
- Sleeping Bag (-20 to 0F/-30C to -20 Recommended)
- Air Mattress
- Trekking Boots, Trekking Shoes &/or Running Shoes
- Hiking Sandals, Water or Running Shoes (REQUIRED for River Crossings. Inquire for Your Trek)
- Crocs (Evenings & Washing)
- Down Jacket(s) &/or Vests (Can be Lightweight Down Jackets. Layering Recommended)
- Wind/Rain Jacket & Pants (Inquire for Your Trek)
- Trekking Pants (2-3)
- T-Shirts (3-4)
- Long-Sleeve Shirts (3-4)
- Technical Jacket (Depending on Other Jackets)
- Thermal Top & Bottom
- Thermal (Lightweight) Top & Bottom
- Evening Thermal Top & Bottom (Synthetic &/or Down Pants Optional)
- Socks (5-6)
- Down Booties (Optional, Recommended)
- Gloves (Lighter Pair & Heavier Pair for Passes)
- Thermal Hat
- Baseball Cap &/or Wide-Brimmed Hat
- Camp Towel
- Inflatable Camp Pillow (Optional)
- Trekking Poles (Recommended &/or Required. Inquire for Your Trek)
- Sunglasses (Extra Recommended)
- Reading Glasses (Extra Recommended)
- Head Lamp (Extra Recommended)
- Water Bottles | Nalgenes (2-3)
- Water Bladder (Optional, Recommended)
- Travel Umbrella (Optional, Recommended)
- Watch (or Alarm)
- Battery Chargers & Extra Batteries
- USB Adapter with Multiple Ports (Recommended)
- Camera or Smart Phone (Optional)
- Small Water Filter, SteriPen +/or Squeeze Filter Bottle Umbrella (Optional, Recommended)
- Camp Washing Bowl (Optional, Collapsible for Clothes)
- Laundry Detergent or Bio-degradable Clothes Soap
- Small Solar Panel (Optional, Recommended for iPods, Phones, Camera Batteries, e-Readers – We Often Have Solar Charging Capacity)
- Book(s) or Kindle &/or Audiobooks
- Zip-Lock | Plastic Bags
- Soft Toilet Paper | Tissues (Optional)
- Toiletries
- SPF Sunscreen & Lip Balm
- Personal Medical Supplies
- Hand Sanitizers (Small)
- Reusable Wipes (Recommended, Not Single Use)
- Rehydration | Electrolytes (Required)
- Snacks (Required)
Dining Tent Note
We have a ‘dress code’ for the evenings in the tent, which essentially means you’ll be changing out of your trekking clothes and into clean, warm evening clothes (which works well for getting into your sleeping bag after dinner). This is to keep the dining tent as clean as possible, as we eat and sit on the ground in Crazy Creek (style) camp chairs …
Suggested Medical Supplies
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs etc. but please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety!
SUGGESTED MEDS | Dexamethasone, Nifedipine & Diamox (altitude), Azithromycin, Ciprofloxacin & Augmentin (antibiotics), blister bandages, Tegaderm &/or bandages, knee & ankle supports/braces (if required), ACE bandage for sprains & strains, cough drops.
Bring whatever pain meds you generally use (Ibuprofen, Paracetamol/Tylenol, Diclofenac), meds for diarrhea (Loperamide/Imodium) and nausea (Ondansetron), antihistamines (non-drowsy & Benadryl is good for a drowsy antihistamine that might help with sleep), as well as any medications that you take regularly or that your doctor prescribes. We recommend picking up a combination Salmeterol & Fluticasone inhaler locally, good for (from a doctor trekking friend) “high altitude cough due to reactive airways, which is kind of like temporary asthma. The ingredients in the inhaler relax the bronchial passages and calm inflammation in the airways.”Stay away from sleeping medications, drugs in the codeine-opiate-narcotic family and other drugs that suppress your breathing (not a good at altitude). And don’t forget electrolytes! Have some with you in your pack (as well as snacks) daily …
We’re happy to take excess medical supplies off your hands when you leave if you won’t need them. We use lots of the large amount we have with us to treat locals, our staff and our trekkers…
Kim’s Gear Suggestions
I generally wear a trekking t-shirt, trekking pants, a mid-weight long-sleeve shirt, a lightweight synthetic jacket (sometimes paired with a vest), often starting the morning in a lightweight pair of long underwear. I carry a lightweight wind-rain jacket and pants, an extra pair of socks, gloves, a baseball cap and hat in my daypack, and on colder days also have a lightweight down jacket with me.
I use a 35 L Osprey daypack with a bladder, and an extra Nalgene to refill water on the trail, and often use trekking poles. I generally trek in running shoes, although I use boots on very cold days and over passes, and sometimes on hot days I also trek in Keen or Chaco sandalas. I often carry Crocs with me in case of river crossings and to give my feet a break at lunch (Tevas, Chacos and Keen sandals take a long time to dry and are relatively heavy), and I carry micro-spikes on pass days. I always have snacks, electrolytes, my camera or iPhone, sunscreen, hand sanitizer and some toilet paper, a small medical kit and a SteriPen.
Good trekking boots or running shoes that you’ve hiked in before the trek are essential. You don’t ever need climbing or plastic boots (for mini-crampons or micro-spikes). Trekking poles are not required but strongly recommended, especially for going down passes which are often steep and icy, and for treks with river crossings and rocky trails. Bring gators if you tend to use them but they’re not required if you don’t own a pair. Micro-spikes (mini-crampons) or YakTrax are useful (or essential) for pass crossings (inquire before the trek). We have an ice ax and rope with us during some treks for pass crossing days, for extra safety.
Good, polarized sunglasses are essential. Do bring an extra pair in case you lose or break them. Don’t forget a sun hat and/or a baseball cap, perhaps an extra headlamp, and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF! Don’t get caught with blistered lips that don’t heal at altitude!
Nights are chilly to very cold, so a down jacket(s) and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. We recommend a down sleeping bag of -10 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C). Mine is -20 F. At lower altitudes I open it and sleep under it like a quilt, and up higher am toasty warm during cold nights. NOTE sleeping bag ratings don’t correspond to how warm they need to be at altitude. Campsites at higher altitudes can be freezing at night and in the morning. The dining tent is a Tibetan style ‘yurt’ with cotton rugs (dhurries), tables and camp chairs on the ground. It warms up in the evenings when everyone is inside having soup, but it is still important to have warm clothes for the evenings. I change into thermals for the evening at camp and to sleep in when we get to camp; stretchy yoga pants over thermal underwear, light down vest and/or jacket over thermal layers. I love my down (or synthetic) booties at night in the tent! We have blankets for everyone if needed, and we even have a small propane heater on some treks …
Bring XL plastic bags or stuff sacks in your daypack in case of rain. The weather is changeable in the Himalaya, so we recommend that everyone has a strong, waterproof duffel bag for the trek. We supply covers that go over the duffel bags to protect them from rain, dirt + rips.
Day Pack
We recommend a 30-45 liter day pack. Better to have it too large than too small as on pass days you’ll need to carry more warm gear, and you can always cinch daypacks down. Many packs come with internal water bladders, or you can purchase them separately; very good for ensuring that you stay hydrated. Make sure your pack fits comfortably when loaded before bringing it trekking!!
In your day pack, you’ll carry your camera or phone, approx 2 liters of water, a jacket, lightweight wind and/or rain pants (often), a thermal hat, a baseball cap or sun hat, a buff (optional, but great to have on dusty trails), gloves, sunscreen, snacks, electrolytes, maybe something to purify water, hand sanitizer, a small bit of medical supplies, a pack-cover and often a lightweight down jacket. I slip my Crocs in for lunchtime stops or unexpected river crossings, and almost always carry a lightweight down jacket!
Tents
Everyone gets their own North Face style dome tent (3-person, large) without paying a single supplement. Couples share the same sized tent.
Drinking Water
We bring KATADYN (or equivalent) expedition-sized water filters along on the trek for fresh drinking water, ecologically the best way to get water in the Himalaya’s fragile trekking regions. Bring your own SteriPen or Sawyer squeeze filter for a back-up filtered water system during the day if you already have one. We bring ours as well, so this is optional. Please bring at least 2 Nalgene or other water bottles in addition to your water bladder.
WATER NOTE | We do not provide boiled water for filling water bottles on our camping treks although there is endless hot water for herbal, black or green teas, hot chocolate, hot lemon as well as delicious Indian chai and Kashmiri tea.
Snacks
You will NEED snacks hiking at altitude, even if you’re not a big snacker. Bring your favorite energy bars, gels, chocolate bars, dried fruit and nuts, jerky or whatever else gives you quick energy. Emergen-C and/or other electrolyte mixes are important in water bottles or before or after the trekking day; it is ESSENTIAL to bring electrolytes with you in your day packs in case you cramp up, get diarrhea or otherwise need them.
You might want to bring something to share in the dining tent. Any sort of cheese (especially from your hometown) is great as a treat on a cheese board before dinner, and something sweet is always appreciated!
Rentals
We have (approximately) 0F super-down sleeping bags to rent for $2.50 per day on our Nepal & Tibet treks. You might want a warmer sleeping bag (I use a -20F); if so, please do bring your own, as we want you to be warm while sleeping at night!
Packing & Extra Gear Storage
It’s easy to pack and unpack from a duffel bag, especially when the temperature drops. It’s a good idea to invest in a strong, waterproof duffel such as a North Face or one of our Kamzang Journeys duffels. You can store extra gear and computers at the hotel while we’re trekking.
Shopping & Snacks in Nepal (& Tibet)
Almost all gear is now available in Kathmandu, from real (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Sherpa Gear, Marmot or at some shops in Thamel) to inexpensive knock-offs or good Nepali brands. The real gear shops take credit cards. There are many camera and mobile shops, and you can pick up good quality chocolate, snack bars (including gluten free, organic and vegan) and lots of other varieties dried fruits, nuts and snacks in Kathmandu. And, of course, you can shop for pashminas (or cashmere, or fakes, please ask if unsure), good quality silver, handicrafts and locally produced specialty products. We also have a large variety of good quality, unique handicrafts at Café Caravan in Boudhanath.
Our trips to Tibet always start in Kathmandu, so the above advice applies, and you can also pick up interesting Chinese snacks and dried fruits in all of the markets in Lhasa.
Shopping & Snacks in India
You can pick up some trekking gear in Leh, such as trekking poles, sleeping bags (about 0F), lightweight down jackets, duffel bags, some good Western and Chinese or Asian gear, but not shoes or boots. Top up your gear in Leh if you need to, but best not to rely on doing major shopping here although the second hand markets can be a treasure chest of trekking and cycling gear! There is a large variety of good quality dried fruit and nuts available in Leh at the outdoor markets and indoor supermarkets, and you can also pick up good chocolates, snack bars, dried fruit, nuts and seeds, and herbal teas in Leh at Chospa Supermarket.
Ladakh, Nubra & Kashmir Extensions
Srinagar & the Jewels of Kashmir Journey
Kashmir, Srinagar & Indus Jeep Safari
A great extension to any of our Kamzang Journeys treks in Ladakh & Zanskar, or a wonderful trip on its own. Kashmir and Srinagar are some of the jewels of the Indian Himalaya, often described by local Kashmiris as ‘heaven on earth’. We are offering a wonderful nine-day itinerary, flying from Delhi to Srinagar and finishing in Leh via the overland route. There are many ways to customize this trip, please get in touch to make this trip exactly what you are looking for!
Some of the highlights: old historic Srinagar & the Mughal Gardens, touring Dal & Nageen Lakes by shikara (local boat), the atmospheric morning floating market, a visit to Dacigram National Park, an excursion Manasbal & Wular Lake, the largest lake in Asia, a tour of Yousmarg and a visit to Naranag Temple, the oldest in Kashmir. En route to Leh you’ll have the option to drive the stunningly beautiful Indus highway via the Koji La, with a chance to visit idyllic Sonmarg and stop at several Tibetan Buddhist monasteries along the road to Leh. Or you can take a one-hour flight directly to Leh. Enjoy the world renown beauty and hospitality of Kashmir!
Nubra, the Indus Valley & Salt Lake Regions Journey
Nubra, Indus Valley Monasteries & Salt Lakes
A nearly perfect extension and a great trip on its own! Tour Central Asian Nubra, Leh, the Indus Valley monasteries (gompas, in Tibetan or Ladakhi) and the breathtakingly beautiful and culturally interesting salt lake region of northern Ladakh, bordering Tibet (China). Visit the nomadic communities at Tso Moriri, the traditional villages at Pangong Lake and explore the bustling Tibetan Buddhist monasteries en route to these lakes via a newly opened route! A wonderful jeep safari though the Indian Himalaya. There is lots to explore in historic Leh and the historic Indus Valley, tucked away amongst the shady villages and intriguing alleyways of this Central Asian capital.
Ladakh & Zanskar
Ladakh & Zanskar Information
“The center of Leh is a wide bazaar where much polo is played in the afternoons; and above this the many irregular flat-roofed, many-balconied houses cluster around the palace and a gigantic chorten alongside it. The rugged crest of the rock on a spur of which the palace stands is crowned by the fantastic buildings of an ancient gonpa … a very mixed population in which the Moslem element is always increasing … partly due to the marriage of Moslem traders with Ladakhi women who embrace the faith of their husbands.
Great caravans en route for Khotan, Yarkand and even Chinese Tibet arrived daily from Kashmir, the Punjab and Afganistan, and stacked their bales of goods in the place. The Lhasa traders opened shops in which the specialties were brick tea and instruments of worship. Merchants from Amritsar, Kabul, Bokhara and Yarkand … thronged the bazaar and opened bales of costly goods in tantalizing fashion. Mules, asses, horses and yaks kicked, squealed and bellowed; the dissonance of bargaining tongues rose high. There were mendicant monks, Indian fakirs, Moslem dervished, Mecca pilgrims, itinerant musicians, and Buddhist ballad howlers. Broad-faced women with creels on their backs brought in lucerne, Ladakhis, Baltis and Lahaulis tended the beasts
… Lhasa traders in heavy winter clothing exchange their expensive teas for Nubra and Baltistan dried apricots, Kashmir saffron and rich stuffs from India. Merchants from Yarkand on big Turkestan horses offer hemp, which is smoked as opium, and Russian triffles and dress goods, under cloudless skies. With the huge Kailas (Karakorum) range as a background, this great rendezvous of Central Asian traffic has a great fascination, even though moral shadows of the darkest kind abound.” (Leh 1894)
– Excerpts from ‘Among the Tibetans’ – Isabella Bird Bishop
History of Ladakh & Zanskar
“Ladakh (the ‘land of high passes’) is a region in Indian state of Ladakh that currently extends from the Kunlun Mountains to the main Great Himalayas to the south, inhabited by people of Indo-Aryan and Tibetan descent. It is one of the most sparsely populated regions in Jammu and Kashmir and its culture and history are closely related to that of Tibet. Ladakh is renowned for its remote mountain beauty and culture. The Tibetan name La-dvags means ‘land of high passes’ It connected India with the Silk Road. Ladakh is its pronunciation in several Tibetan districts, and a transliteration of the Persian spelling.
Historically, the region included the Baltistan (Baltiyul) valleys (now mostly in Pakistan), the entire upper Indus Valley, the remote Zanskar, Lahaul and Spiti to the south, much of Ngari including the Rudok region and Guge in the east, Aksai Chin in the northeast (extending to the Kun Lun Mountains), and the Nubra Valley to the north over Khardong La in the Ladakh Range. Contemporary Ladakh borders Tibet to the east, the Lahaul and Spiti regions to the south, the Vale of Kashmir, Jammu and Baltiyul regions to the west, and the southwest corner of Xinjiang across the Karakoram Pass in the far north.
Aksai Chin is one of the disputed border areas between China and India. It is administered by China as part of Hotan County but is also claimed by India as a part of the Ladakh region of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. In 1962, China and India fought a brief war over Aksai Chin and Arunachal Pradesh, but in 1993 and 1996 the two countries signed agreements to respect the Line of Actual Control.
In the past Ladakh gained importance from its strategic location at the crossroads of important trade routes, but since the Chinese authorities closed the borders with Tibet and Central Asia in the 1960s, international trade has dwindled except for tourism. Since 1974, the Government of India has successfully encouraged tourism in Ladakh. Since Ladakh is a part of strategically important Jammu and Kashmir, the Indian military maintains a strong presence in the region.The largest town in Ladakh is Leh, followed by Kargil. Almost half of Ladakhis are Shia Muslims and the rest are mostly Tibetan Buddhists. Some Ladakhi activists have in recent times called for Ladakh to be constituted as a union territory because of perceived unfair treatment by Kashmir and Ladakh’s cultural differences with predominantly Muslim Kashmir.”
History of Ladakh & Zanskar
“Rock carvings found in many parts of Ladakh indicate that the area has been inhabited from Neolithic times. Ladakh’s earliest inhabitants consisted of a mixed Indo-Aryan population of Mons and Dards, who find mention in the works of Herodotus, Nearchus, Megasthenes, Pliny, Ptolemy, and the geographical lists of the Puranas. Around the 1st century, Ladakh was a part of the Kushana empire. Buddhism spread into western Ladakh from Kashmir in the 2nd century when much of eastern Ladakh and western Tibet was still practicing the Bon religion. The 7th century Buddhist traveler Xuanzang describes the region in his accounts.
In the 8th century, Ladakh was involved in the clash between Tibetan expansion pressing from the East and Chinese influence exerted from Central Asia through the passes. Suzerainty over Ladakh frequently changed hands between China and Tibet. In 842 Nyima-Gon, a Tibetan royal prince annexed Ladakh for himself after the break-up of the Tibetan empire, and founded a separate Ladakhi dynasty. During this period, Ladakh acquired a predominantly Tibetan population. The dynasty spearheaded the second spreading of Buddhism, importing religious ideas from north-west India, particularly from Kashmir. The first spreading of Buddhism was the one in Tibet proper.
According to Rolf Alfred Stein, author of Tibetan Civilization, the area of Zhangzhung was not historically a part of Tibet and was a distinctly foreign territory to the Tibetans. According to Rolf Alfred Stein, “The Tibetans encountered a distinctly foreign nation—Shangshung, with its capital at Khyunglung. Mt. Kailāśa (Tise) and Lake Manasarovar formed part of this country, whose language has come down to us through early documents. Though still unidentified, it seems to be Indo-European. Geographically the country was certainly open to India, both through Nepal and by way of Kashmir and Ladakh. Kailāśa is a holy place for the Indians, who make pilgrimages to it. No one knows how long they have done so, but the cult may well go back to the times when Shangshung was still independent of Tibet. How far Zhangzhung stretched to the north, east and west is a mystery. We have already had an occasion to remark that Shangshung, embracing Kailāśa sacred Mount of the Hindus, may once have had a religion largely borrowed from Hinduism. The situation may even have lasted for quite a long time. In fact, about 950, the Hindu King of Kabul had a statue of Vişņu, of the Kashmiri type (with three heads), which he claimed had been given him by the king of the Bhota (Tibetans) who, in turn had obtained it from Kailāśa.”
A chronicle of Ladakh compiled in the 17th century called the La dvags royal rabs, meaning the Royal Chronicle of the Kings of Ladakh recorded that this boundary was traditional and well-known. The first part of the Chronicle was written in the years 1610–1640 and the second half towards the end of the 17th century. The work has been translated into English by AH Francke and published in 1926 in Calcutta titled “The Antiquities of Indian Tibet”. In volume 2, the Ladakhi Chronicle describes the partition by King Skyid-lde-ngima-gon of his kingdom between his three sons, and then the chronicle described the extent of territory secured by that son. The following quotation is from page 94 of this book: “He gave to each of his sons a separate kingdom: to the eldest Dpal-gyi-gon, Maryul of Mngah-ris, the inhabitants using black bows; Ru-thogs of the east and the goldmine of Hgog; nearer this way Lde-mchog-dkar-po; at the frontier Ra-ba-dmar-po; Wam-le, to the top of the pass of the Yi-mig rock.” It is evident that Rudok was an integral part of Ladakh. Even after the family partition, Rudok continued to be part of Ladakh. Maryul meaning lowlands was a name given to a part of Ladakh. Even at that time(in the 10th century), Rudok was an integral part of Ladakh and Lde-mchog-dkar-po (Demchok) was an integral part of Ladakh.
Faced with the Islamic conquest of South Asia in the 13th century, Ladakh chose to seek and accept guidance in religious matters from Tibet. For nearly two centuries until about 1600, Ladakh was subject to raids and invasions from neighboring Muslim states. Some of the Ladakhis converted to Islam during this period. Between the 1380s and early 1510s, many Islamic missionaries propagated Islam and proselytized the Ladakhi people. Important Sufi missionaries propagated Islam to the locals; Mir Sayyid Ali was the first one to make Muslim converts in Ladakh and is often described as the founder of Islam in Ladakh. Several mosques were built in Ladakh during this period, including in Mulbhe, Padum and Shey, the capital of Ladakh. His principal disciple, Sayyid Muhammad Nur Baksh also propagated Islam to Ladakhis and the Balti people rapidly converted to Islam. Noorbakshia Islam is named after him and his followers are only found in Baltistan and Ladakh. During his youth, Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin expelled the mystic Sheikh Zain Shahwalli for showing disrespect to him. The sheikh then went to Ladakh and proselytized many people to Islam. In 1505, Shamsuddin Iraqi, a noted Shia scholar, visited Kashmir and Baltistan. He helped in spreading Shia Islam in Kashmir and converted the overwhelming majority of Muslims in Baltistan to his school of thought. It is unclear what happened to Islam after this period and it seems to have received a setback. Mirza Muhammad Haidar Dughlat who invaded and briefly conquered Ladakh in 1532, 1545 and 1548, does not record any presence of Islam in Leh during his invasion although Shia Islam and Noorbakshia Islam continued to flourish in other regions of Ladakh.”
Thikse Monastery, Ladakh
“King Bhagan reunited and strengthened Ladakh and founded the Namgyal dynasty (Namgyal means “victorious” in several Tibetan languages) which survives to today. The Namgyals repelled most Central Asian raiders and temporarily extended the kingdom as far as Nepal. During the Balti invasion led by Raja Ali Sher Khan Anchan, many Buddhist temples and artifacts were damaged. According to some accounts after the Namgyals were defeated, Jamyang gave his daughter’s hand in marriage to the victorious Ali. Ali took the king and his soldiers as captives. Jamyang was later restored to the throne by Ali and was then given the hand of a Muslim princess in marriage whose name was Gyal Khatun or Argyal Khatoom upon the condition that she would be the first queen and her son will become the next ruler. Historical accounts differ upon who her father was. Some identify Ali’s ally and Raja of Khaplu Yabgo Shey Gilazi as her father, while others identify Ali himself as the father. In the early 17th century efforts were made to restore destroyed artifacts and gonpas by Sengge Namgyal, the son of Jamyang and Gyal and the kingdom expanded into Zangskar and Spiti. However, despite a defeat of Ladakh by the Mughals, who had already annexed Kashmir and Baltistan, it retained its independence.
It appears that the Balti conquest of Ladakh took place in about 1594 AD which was the era of Namgyal dynasty by Balti king Ali Sher Khan Anchan. Legends show that the Balti army, obsessed with success, advanced as far as Purang, in the valley of Mansarwar Lake, and won the admiration of their enemies and friends. The Raja of Ladakh sued for peace and, since Ali Sher Khan’s intention was not to annex Ladakh, he agreed subject to the condition that the village of Ganokh and Gagra Nullah should be ceded to Skardu and he (the Ladakhi Raja) should pay annual tribute. This tribute was paid through the Gonpa (monastery) of Lama Yuru till the Dogra conquest of Ladakh. Hashmatullah records that the Head Lama of the said Gonpa had admitted before him the payment of yearly tribute to Skardu Darbar till the Dogra conquest of Ladakh.
Islam begin to take root in the Leh area in the beginning of the 17th century after the Balti invasion and the marriage of Gyal to Jamyang. A large group of Muslim servants and musicians were sent along with Gyal to Ladakh and private mosques were built where they could pray. The Muslim musicians later settled in Leh. Several hundred Baltis migrated to the kingdom and according to oral tradition many Muslim traders were granted land to settle. Many other Muslims were invited over the following years for various purposes.
In the late 17th century, Ladakh sided with Bhutan in its dispute with Tibet which, among other reasons, resulted in its invasion by the Tibetan Central Government. This event is known as the Tibet-Ladakh-Mughal war of 1679-1684. Kashmiri historians assert that the king converted to Islam in return for the assistance by Mughal Empire after this, however Ladakhi chronicles do not mention such a thing. The king agreed to pay tribute to the Mughals in return for defending the kingdom. The Mughals however withdrew after being paid off by the 5th Dalai Lama. With the help of reinforcements from Galdan Boshugtu Khan, Khan of the Zungar Empire, the Tibetans attacked again in 1684. The Tibetans were victorious and concluded a treaty with Ladakh, and then retreated back to Lhasa in December 1684. The Treaty of Tingmosgang in 1684 settled the dispute between Tibet and Ladakh but severely restricted Ladakh’s independence. In 1834, the Dogra Zorawar Singh, a general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, invaded and annexed Ladakh to the Sikh Empire. After the defeat of the Sikhs in the Second Anglo-Sikh War, the province of Jammu & Kashmir was transferred to Gulab Singh, to be ruled under British suzerainty as a princely state. A Ladakhi rebellion in 1842 was crushed and Ladakh was incorporated into the Dogra state of Jammu & Kashmir. The Namgyal family was given the jagir of Stok, which it nominally retains to this day. European influence began in Ladakh in the 1850s and increased. Geologists, sportsmen and tourists began exploring Ladakh. In 1885, Leh became the headquarters of a mission of the Moravian Church.
Ladakh was claimed as part of Tibet by Phuntsok Wangyal, a Tibetan Communist leader. At the time of the partition of India in 1947, the Dogra ruler Maharaja Hari Singh signed the Instrument of Accession to India. Pakistani raiders had reached Ladakh and military operations were initiated to evict them. The wartime conversion of the pony trail from Sonamarg to Zoji La by army engineers permitted tanks to move up and successfully capture the pass. The advance continued. Dras, Kargil and Leh were liberated and Ladakh cleared of the infiltrators.
In 1949, China closed the border between Nubra and Xinjiang, blocking old trade routes. In 1955 China began to build roads connecting Xinjiang and Tibet through this area. It also built the Karakoram highway jointly with Pakistan. India built the Srinagar-Leh Highway during this period, cutting the journey time between Srinagar and Leh from 16 days to 2. The route, however, remains closed during the winter months due to heavy snowfall. Construction of a 6.5km tunnel across Zoji La pass (was recently constructed) to make the route functional throughout the year. The entire state of Jammu & Kashmir continues to be the subject of a territorial dispute between India, Pakistan and China. The Kargil War of 1999, codenamed “Operation Vijay” by the Indian Army, saw infiltration by Pakistani troops into parts of Western Ladakh, namely Kargil, Dras, Mushkoh, Batalik and Chorbatla, overlooking key locations on the Srinagar-Leh highway. Extensive operations were launched in high altitudes by the Indian Army with considerable artillery and air force support. Pakistani troops were evicted from the Indian side of the Line of Control which the Indian government ordered was to be respected and which was not crossed by Indian troops. The Indian government was criticized by the Indian public because India respected geographical co-ordinates more than India’s opponents: Pakistan and China.
In 1984 the Siachen Glacier area in the northernmost corner of Ladakh became the venue of a continuing military standoff between India and Pakistan in the highest battleground in the world. The boundary here was not demarcated in the 1972 Simla Agreement beyond a point named NJ9842. In 1984 India occupied the entire Siachen Glacier and by 1987 the heights of the Saltoro Ridge which borders the glacier to the west, with Pakistan troops in the glacial valleys and on the ridges just west of the Saltoro Ridge crest. This status has remained much the same since, and a ceasefire was established in 2003.
The Ladakh region was bifurcated into the Kargil and Leh districts in 1979. In 1989, there were violent riots between Buddhists and Muslims. Following demands for autonomy from the Kashmiri dominated state government, the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council was created in the 1990s. Leh and Kargil Districts now each have their own locally elected Hill Councils with some control over local policy and development funds. In 1991, a Peace Pagoda was erected in Leh by Nipponzan Myohoji.
There is a heavy presence of Indian Army and Indo-Tibetan Border Police forces in Ladakh. These forces and People’s Liberation Army forces from China have, since the 1962 Sino-Indian War, had frequent stand-offs along the Lakakh portion of the Line of Actual Control. The stand-off involving the most troops was in September 2014 in the disputed Chumar region when 800 to 1000 Indian troops and 1500 Chinese troops came into close proximity to each other.”
Geography of Ladakh
“Ladakh is the highest plateau in the state of Jammu & Kashmir with much of it being over 3000m (9800′). It extends from the Himalayan to the Kunlun Ranges and includes the upper Indus River valley. Historically, the region included the Baltistan (Baltiyul) valleys (now mostly in Pakistani administered part of Kashmir), the entire upper Indus Valley, the remote Zanskar, Lahaul and Spiti to the south, much of Ngari including the Rudok region and Guge in the east, Aksai Chin in the northeast, and the Nubra Valley to the north over Khardong La in the Ladakh Range. Contemporary Ladakh borders Tibet to the east, the Lahaul and Spiti regions to the south, the Vale of Kashmir, Jammu and Baltiyul regions to the west, and the southwest corner of Xinjiang across the Karakoram Pass in the far north. The historic but imprecise divide between Ladakh and the Tibetan Plateau commences in the north in the intricate maze of ridges east of Rudok including Aling Kangri and Mavang Kangri, and continues southeastward toward northwestern Nepal. Before partition, Baltistan, now under Pakistani control, was a district in Ladakh. Skardu was the winter capital of Ladakh, while Leh was the summer capital.
The mountain ranges in this region were formed over 45 million years by the folding of the Indian plate into the more stationary Eurasian Plate. The drift continues, causing frequent earthquakes in the Himalayan region. The peaks in the Ladakh Range are at a medium altitude close to the Zoji La (5000–5500m or 16,000–18,050′) and increase toward southeast, culminating in the twin summits of Nun & Kun (7000m or 23,000′).
The Suru and Zanskar valleys form a great trough enclosed by the Himalayas and the Zanskar Range. Rangdum is the highest inhabited region in the Suru valley, after which the valley rises to 4400m (14,400′) at Pensi La, the gateway to Zanskar. Kargil, the only town in the Suru valley, is the second most important town in Ladakh. It was an important staging post on the routes of the trade caravans before 1947, being more or less equidistant, at about 230 km from Srinagar, Leh, Skardu and Padum. The Zanskar valley lies in the troughs of the Stod and the Lungnak Rivers. The region experiences heavy snowfall; the Pensi La is open only between June and mid-October. Dras and the Mushkoh Valley form the western extremity of Ladakh.
The Indus River is the backbone of Ladakh. Most major historical and current towns – Shey, Leh, Basgo and Tingmosgang (but not Kargil) – are close to the Indus River. After the Indo-Pakistani War of 1947, the stretch of the Indus flowing through Ladakh became the only part of this river, which is greatly venerated in the Hindu religion and culture, that still flows through India.
The Siachen Glacier is in the eastern Karakoram Range in the Himalaya Mountains along the disputed India-Pakistan border. The Karakoram Range forms a great watershed that separates China from the Indian subcontinent and is sometimes called the “Third Pole.” The glacier lies between the Saltoro Ridge immediately to the west and the main Karakoram Range to the east. At 76km long, it is the longest glacier in the Karakoram and second-longest in the world’s non-polar areas. It falls from an altitude of 5753m (18,875′) above sea level at its source at Indira Col on the China border down to 3620m (11,880′) at its snout. Saser Kangri is the highest peak in the Saser Muztagh, the easternmost subrange of the Karakoram Range in India, Saser Kangri I having an altitude of 7672m (25,171′).”
Monthly Average Temperature in Leh
“The Ladakh Range has no major peaks; its average height is a little less than 6000m (20,000′), and few of its passes are less than 5000m (16,000′). The Pangong Range runs parallel to the Ladakh Range for about 100 km northwest from Chushul along the southern shore of the Pangong Lake. Its highest point is about 6,700m (22,000 ft) and the northern slopes are heavily glaciated. The region comprising the valley of the Shayok and Nubra rivers is known as Nubra. The Karakoram Range in Ladakh is not as mighty as in Baltistan. The massifs to the north and east of the Nubra–Siachen line include the Apsarasas Group (highest point 7245m; 23,770′) the Rimo Muztagh (highest point 7385m; 24,229′) and the Teram Kangri Group (highest point 7464m; 24,488′) together with Mamostong Kangri (7526m; 24,692′) and Singhi Kangri (7202m; 23,629′). North of the Karakoram lies the Kunlun. Thus, between Leh and eastern Central Asia there is a triple barrier — the Ladakh Range, Karakoram Range, and Kunlun. Nevertheless, a major trade route was established between Leh and Yarkand.
Ladakh is a high-altitude desert as the Himalayas create a rain shadow, generally denying entry to monsoon clouds. The main source of water is the winter snowfall on the mountains. Recent flooding in the region (e.g., the 2010 floods) has been attributed to abnormal rain patterns and retreating glaciers, both of which have been found to be linked to global climate change. The Leh Nutrition Project, headed by Chewang Norphel, also known as the “Glacier Man”, creates artificial glaciers as one solution for retreating glaciers.
The regions on the north flank of the Himalayas – Dras, the Suru Valley and Zanskar – experience heavy snowfall and remain cut off from the rest of the region for several months in the year, as the whole region remains cut off by road from the rest of the country. Summers are short, though they are long enough to grow crops. The summer weather is dry and pleasant. Temperature ranges are from 3 to 35 °C in summer and minimums range from -20 to -35 °C in winter.
The Zanskar River is the main river of the region along with its tributaries. The Zanskar River becomes frozen during the winter, and the famous Chadar trek takes place on this magnificent frozen river.”
Fauna & Flora of Ladakh
“Vegetation is extremely sparse in Ladakh except along streambeds and wetlands, on high slopes, and in irrigated places. The first European to study the wildlife of this region was Ferdinand Stoliczka, an Austrian-Czech paleontologist who carried out a massive expedition there in the 1870s.
The fauna of Ladakh has much in common with that of Central Asia in general and that of the Tibetan Plateau in particular. Exceptions to this are the birds, many of which migrate from the warmer parts of India to spend the summer in Ladakh. For such an arid area, Ladakh has a great diversity of birds — a total of 225 species have been recorded. Many species of finches, robins, redstarts (like the black redstart), and the hoopoe are common in summer. The brown-headed gull is seen in summer on the Indus and on some lakes of the Changthang. Resident water-birds include the brahminy duck, also known as the ruddy sheldrake, and the bar-headed goose. The black-necked crane, a rare species found scattered in the Tibetan plateau, is also found in parts of Ladakh. Other birds include the raven, Eurasian magpie, red-billed chough, Tibetan snowcock, and chukar. The lammergeier, Himalayan griffin and the golden eagle are common raptors here, especially in Changthang region.
The endangered black-necked crane, Grus nigricollis, breeds in Ladakh. It is the state bird of Jammu & Kashmir. The bharal or blue sheep is the most abundant mountain ungulate in the Ladakh region, although it is not found in some parts of Zangskar and Sham areas. The Asiatic ibex is a very elegant mountain goat that is distributed in the western part of Ladakh. It is the second most abundant mountain ungulate in the region with a population of about 6000 individuals. It is adapted to rugged areas where it easily climbs when threatened. The Ladakhi Urial is another unique mountain sheep that inhabits the mountains of Ladakh. The population is declining, however, and there are not more than 3000 individuals left in Ladakh. The urial is endemic to Ladakh, where it is distributed only along two major river valleys: the Indus and Shayok. The animal is often persecuted by farmers whose crops are allegedly damaged by it. Its population declined precipitously in the last century due to indiscriminate shooting by hunters along the Leh-Srinagar highway. The Tibetan argali or nyan is the largest wild sheep in the world, standing 3.5 to 4 feet at the shoulder with the horn measuring 90–100 cm. It is distributed on the Tibetan plateau and its marginal mountains encompassing a total area of 2.5 million km2. There is only a small population of about 400 animals in Ladakh. The argali prefers open and rolling terrain as it runs, unlike wild goats that climb into steep cliffs, to escape from predators. The endangered Tibetan antelope, known as chiru in Indian English, or Ladakhi tsos, has traditionally been hunted for its wool (shahtoosh) which is a natural fiber of the finest quality and thus valued for its light weight and warmth and as a status symbol. The wool of chiru must be pulled out by hand, a process done after the animal is killed. The fiber is smuggled into Kashmir and woven into exquisite shawls by Kashmiri workers. Ladakh is also home to the Tibetan gazelle, which inhabits the vast rangelands in eastern Ladakh bordering Tibet.”
Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass)
“The kiang, or Tibetan wild ass, is common in the grasslands of Changthang, numbering about 2,500 individuals. These animals are in conflict with the nomadic people of Changthang who hold the kiang responsible for pasture degradation. There are about 200 snow leopards in Ladakh of an estimated 7,000 worldwide. The Hemis High Altitude National Park in central Ladakh is an especially good habitat for this predator as it has abundant prey populations. The Eurasian lynx, is another rare cat that preys on smaller herbivores in Ladakh. It is mostly found in Nubra, Changthang and Zanskar. The Pallas’s cat, which looks somewhat like a house cat, is very rare in Ladakh and not much is known about the species. The Tibetan wolf, which sometimes preys on the livestock of the Ladakhis, is the most persecuted amongst the predators. There are also a few brown bears in the Suru valley and the area around Dras. The Tibetan sand fox has been discovered in this region. Among smaller animals, marmots, hares, and several types of pika and vole are common.
Scant precipitation makes Ladakh a high-altitude desert with extremely scarce vegetation over most of its area. Natural vegetation mainly occurs along water courses and on high altitude areas that receive more snow and cooler summer temperatures. Human settlements, however, are richly vegetated due to irrigation. Natural vegetation commonly seen along water courses includes seabuckthorn, wild roses of pink or yellow varieties, tamarisk, caraway, stinging nettles, mint, Physochlaina praealta, and various grasses. Natural vegetation in unirrigated desert around Leh includes capers (Capparis spinosa), Nepeta floccosa, globe thistle (Echinops cornigerus), Ephedra gerardiana, rhubarb, Tanacetum spp., several artemisias, Peganum harmala, and several other succulents. Juniper trees grow wild in some locations and are usually considered sacred by Buddhists.
Human settlements are marked by lush fields and trees, all irrigated with water from glacial streams, springs, and rivers. Higher altitude villages grow barley, peas, and vegetables, and have one species of willow (called drokchang in Ladakhi). Lower villages also grow wheat, alfalfa, mustard for oil, grapes, and a greater variety of vegetables. Cultivated trees in lower villages include apricots, apples, mulberries, walnuts, balsam poplars, Afghan poplars, oleaster (Elaeagnus angustifolia), and several species of willow (difficult to identify, and local names vary). Elms and white poplars are found in the Nubra Valley, and one legendary specimen of white poplar grows in Alchi in the Indus Valley. Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia), Himalayan cypress and horse chestnut have been introduced since the 1990s.”
Government & Politics of Ladakh
“Ladakh district was a district of the Jammu & Kashmir state of India until 1 July 1979 when it was divided into Leh district and Kargil district. Each of these districts is governed by a Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council, which is based on the pattern of the Darjeeling Gorkha Autonomous Hill Council. These councils were created as a compromise solution to the demands of Ladakhi people to make Leh a union territory.
In October 1993, the Indian government and the State government agreed to grant each district of Ladakh the status of Autonomous Hill Council. This agreement was given effect by the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council Act, 1995. The council came into being with the holding of elections in Leh District on 28 August 1995. The inaugural meeting of the council was held at Leh on 3 September 1995. Kargil, later, adopted the Hill council in July 2003, when the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council — Kargil was established. The council works with village panchayats to take decisions on economic development, healthcare, education, land use, taxation, and local governance which are further reviewed at the block headquarters in the presence of the chief executive councilor and executive councilors. The government of Jammu and Kashmir looks after law and order, the judicial system, communications and the higher education in the region.”
Economy of Ladakh
“The land is irrigated by a system of channels which funnel water from the ice and snow of the mountains. The principal crops are barley and wheat. Rice was previously a luxury in the Ladakhi diet, but, subsidized by the government, has now become a cheap staple. Naked barley (Ladakhi: nas, Urdu: grim) was traditionally a staple crop all over Ladakh. Growing times vary considerably with altitude. The extreme limit of cultivation is at Korzok, on Tsomoriri Lake, at 4,600m (15,100 ft), widely considered to be the highest fields in the world.
A minority of Ladakhi people were also employed as merchants and caravan traders, facilitating trade in textiles, carpets, dyestuffs and narcotics between Punjab and Xinjiang. However, since the Chinese Government closed the borders with Tibet and Central Asia, this international trade has completely dried up. Since 1974, the Indian Government has encouraged a shift in trekking and other tourist activities from the troubled Kashmir region to the relatively unaffected areas of Ladakh. Although tourism employs only 4% of Ladakh’s working population, it now accounts for 50% of the region’s GNP.”
Transport in Ladakh
“Ladakh was the connection point between Central Asia and South Asia when the Silk Road was in use. The 60-day journey on the Ladakh route connecting Amritsar and Yarkand through 11 passes was frequently undertaken by traders till the third quarter of the 19th century. Another common route in regular use was the Kalimpong route between Leh and Lhasa via Gartok, the administrative center of western Tibet. Gartok could be reached either straight up the Indus in winter or through either the Taglang La or the Chang La. Beyond Gartok, the Cherko La brought travelers to the Manasarovar and Rakshastal Lakes, and then to Barka, which is connected to the main Lhasa road. These traditional routes have been closed since the Ladakh-Tibet border was sealed by the Chinese government. Other routes connected Ladakh to Hunza and Chitral but, as in the previous case, there is no border crossing between Ladakh and Pakistan.
In present times, the only two land routes to Ladakh in use are from Srinagar and Manali. Travelers from Srinagar start their journey from Sonamarg, over the Zoji La pass (3,450m; 11,320 ft) via Dras and Kargil (2,750m; 9,020 ft) passing through Namika La (3,700m; 12,100 ft) and Fatu la (4,100m; 13,500 ft). This has been the main traditional gateway to Ladakh since historical times and is now open to traffic from April or May until November or December every year. The newer route is the high altitude Manali-Leh Highway from Himachal Pradesh. The highway crosses 4 passes (Rohtang la (3,978m; 13,051 ft), Baralacha La (4,892m; 16,050 ft), Lungalacha La (5,059m; 16,598 ft) and Taglang La (5325m, 17,470′) and the More Plains, and is open only between May and November when snow is cleared from the road.”
Demographics of Ladakh
“People of Dard descent predominate in Dras and Dha-Hanu areas. The residents of the Dha-Hanu area, known as Brokpa, are followers of Tibetan Buddhism and have preserved much of their original Dardic traditions and customs. The Dards of Dras, however, have converted to Islam and have been strongly influenced by their Kashmiri neighbors. The Mons are believed to be descendants of earlier Indian settlers in Ladakh, and traditionally worked as musicians, blacksmiths and carpenters. The region’s population is split roughly in half between the districts of Leh and Kargil. 76.87% population of Kargil is Muslim, with a total population of 140,802, while that of Leh is 66.40% Buddhist, with a total population of 133,487, as per the 2011 census.
The principal language of Ladakh is Ladakhi, a Tibetan language. Educated Ladakhis usually know Hindi, Urdu and often English. Within Ladakh, there is a range of dialects, so that the language of the Chang-pa people may differ markedly from that of the Purig-pa in Kargil, or the Zanskaris, but they are all mutually comprehensible. Due to its position on important trade routes, the language of Leh is enriched with foreign words. Traditionally, Ladakhi had no written form distinct from classical Tibetan, but a number of Ladakhi writers have started using the Tibetan script to write the colloquial tongue. Administrative work and education are carried out in English; although Urdu was used to a great extent in the past, now only land records and some police records are kept in Urdu.”
Cuisine of Ladakh
“Ladakhi food has much in common with Tibetan food, the most prominent foods being thukpa (noodle soup) and tsampa, known in Ladakhi as ngampe (roasted barley flour). Edible without cooking, tsampa makes useful trekking food. A dish that is strictly Ladakhi is skyu, a heavy pasta dish with root vegetables. As Ladakh moves toward a cash-based economy, foods from the plains of India are becoming more common. As in other parts of Central Asia, tea in Ladakh is traditionally made with strong green tea, butter, and salt. It is mixed in a large churn and known as gurgur cha, after the sound it makes when mixed. Sweet tea (cha ngarmo) is common now, made in the Indian style with milk and sugar. Most of the surplus barley that is produced is fermented into chang, an alcoholic beverage drunk especially on festive occasions.”
Music & Dance of Ladakh
“Traditional music includes the instruments surna and daman (shenai and drum). The music of Ladakhi Buddhist monastic festivals, like Tibetan music, often involves religious chanting in Tibetan as an integral part of the religion. These chants are complex, often recitations of sacred texts or in celebration of various festivals. Yang chanting, performed without metrical timing, is accompanied by resonant drums and low, sustained syllables. Religious mask dances are an important part of Ladakh’s cultural life. Hemis Monastery, a leading center of the Drukpa tradition of Buddhism, holds an annual masked dance festival, as do all major Ladakhi monasteries. The dances typically narrate a story of the fight between good and evil, ending with the eventual victory of the former. Weaving is an important part of traditional life in eastern Ladakh. Both women and men weave, on different looms. Typical costumes include gonchas of velvet, elaborately embroidered waistcoats and boots and hats.”
Sports of Ladakh
“The most popular sport in Ladakh is ice hockey, which is played only on natural ice generally mid-December through mid-February. Cricket is very popular. Archery is a traditional sport in Ladakh, and many villages hold archery festivals, which are as much about traditional dancing, drinking and gambling as about the sport. The sport is conducted with strict etiquette, to the accompaniment of the music of surna and daman (shehnai and drum). Polo, the other traditional sport of Ladakh is indigenous to Baltistan and Gilgit, and was probably introduced into Ladakh in the mid-17th century by King Singge Namgyal, whose mother was a Balti princess. Polo, popular among the Baltis with some support from financial heavyweights, is an annual affair in Drass region of District Kargil.”
Social Status of Women in Ladakh
“A feature of Ladakhi society that distinguishes it from the rest of the state is the high status and relative emancipation enjoyed by women compared to other rural parts of India. Fraternal polyandry and inheritance by primogeniture were common in Ladakh until the early 1940s when these were made illegal by the government of Jammu & Kashmir. However, the practice remained in existence into the 1990s especially among the elderly and the more isolated rural populations (and still exists with the nomads). Another custom is known as khang-bu, or ‘little house’, in which the elders of a family, as soon as the eldest son has sufficiently matured, retire from participation in affairs, yielding the headship of the family to him and taking only enough of the property for their own sustenance. The society is also both maternal and paternal, the tradition of where the groom comes to stay with the bride’s family is not considered a taboo unlike the rest of India. Women enjoy a very high status in society, however, female participation in the politics of the region remains limited.”
Traditional Medicine of Ladakh
“Tibetan medicine has been the traditional health system of Ladakh for over a thousand years. This school of traditional healing contains elements of Ayurveda and Chinese medicine, combined with the philosophy and cosmology of Tibetan Buddhism. For centuries, the only medical system accessible to the people have been the amchi — traditional doctors following the Tibetan medical tradition. Amchi medicine is an important component of public health to this day, especially in remote areas.
Programs by the government, local and international organizations are working to develop and rejuvenate this traditional system of healing. Efforts are underway to preserve the intellectual property rights of amchi medicine for the people of Ladakh. The government has also been trying to promote the sea buckthorn in the form of juice and jam, as it is believed to possess many medicinal properties. This is seen as a means of providing employment to self-help groups in rural Ladakh.”
Education in Ladakh
“Traditionally there was little or nothing by way of formal education except in the monasteries. According to the 2001 census, the overall literacy rate in Leh District is 62% (72% for males and 50% for females), and in Kargil District 58% (74% for males and 41% for females). Traditionally there was little or nothing by way of formal education except in the monasteries. Usually, one son from every family was obliged to master the Tibetan script in order to read the holy books.
The Moravian Mission opened a school in Leh in October 1889, and the Wazir-i Wazarat (ex officio Joint Commissioner with a British officer) of Baltistan and Ladakh ordered that every family with more than one child should send one of them to school. This order met with great resistance from the local people who feared that the children would be forced to convert to Christianity. The school taught Tibetan, Urdu, English, Geography, Sciences, Nature study, Arithmetic, Geometry and Bible study. It is still in existence today. The first local school to provide western education was opened by a local Society called Lamdon Social Welfare Society in 1973. Later, with support from HH Dalai Lama and some international organizations, the school has grown to accommodate approximately two thousand pupils in several branches. It prides itself on preserving Ladakhi tradition and culture.
Schools are well distributed throughout Ladakh but 75% of them provide only primary education. 65% of children attend school, but absenteeism of both students and teachers remains high. In both districts the failure rate at school-leaving level (class X) has for many years been around 50%. Before 1993, students were taught in Urdu until they were 14, after which the medium of instruction shifted to English.
In 1994 the Students’ Educational and Cultural Movement of Ladakh (SECMOL) launched Operation New Hope (ONH), a campaign to provide “culturally appropriate and locally relevant education” and make government schools more functional and effective. Eliezer Joldan Memorial College, a government degree college enables students to pursue higher education without having to leave Ladakh.”
– All Excerpts from Wikipedia
Zanskar
“Zanskar appears as ‘Zangskar’ mostly in academic studies in social sciences (anthropology, gender studies), reflecting the Ladakhi pronunciation, although the Zanskari pronunciation is Zãhar. Older geographical accounts and maps may use the alternate spelling “Zaskar”. An etymological study of the name reveals that its origin might refer to the natural occurrence of copper in this region, the Tibetan word for which is “Zangs”. The second syllable however seems to be more challenging as it has various meanings: “Zangs-dkar” (white copper), “Zangs-mkhar” (copper palace), or “Zangs-skar” (copper star). Others claim it derives from zan = copper + skar = valley … the origin of this name might also be “Zan-mKhar” (food palace), because the staple food crops are so abundant in an otherwise rather arid region. The locally accepted spelling of the name in Tibetan script is zangs-dkar.
Some of the religious scholars of the district, also cited by Snellgrove and Skorupsky (1980) and Crook (1994), hold that it was originally “bzang-dkar”, meaning good (or beautiful) and white. “Good” would refer to the triangular shape of the Padum plain, the triangle being the symbol of Dharma and religion; “white” would refer to the simplicity, goodness, and religious inclinations of the Zanskaris. Thus, even if etymologically it would be more correct to use “Zangskar”, the most frequently found spelling for this region is undoubtedly “Zanskar”.”
History of Zanskar
“The first traces of human activity in Zanskar seem to go back as far as the Bronze Age. Petroglyphs attributed to that period suggest that their creators were hunters on the steppes of central Asia, living between Kazakhstan and China. It is suspected that an Indo-European population known as the Mon might then have lived in this region, before mixing with or being replaced by the next settlers, the Dards. Early Buddhism coming from Kashmir spread its influence in Zanskar, possibly as early as 200 BC. The earliest monuments date from the Kushan period. After this eastward propagation of Buddhism, Zanskar and large parts of the Western Himalaya were overrun in the 7th century by the Tibetans, who imposed their then animistic Bön religion.
The Zanskar Range is a mountain range in the union territory of Ladakh that separates Zanskar from Ladakh itself. Geologically, the Zanskar Range is part of the Tethys Himalaya, an approximately 100-km-wide synclinorium formed by strongly folded and imbricated, weakly metamorphosed sedimentary series. The average height of the Zanskar Range is about 6,000m.”
Phugtal Monastery (South East Zanskar)
“Buddhism regained its influence over Zanskar in the 8th century when Tibet was also converted to this religion. Between the 10th and 11th centuries, two royal houses were founded in Zanskar, and the monasteries of Karsha and Phugtal were built. Until the 15th century Zanskar existed as a more or less independent Buddhist Kingdom ruled by between two and four related royal families. Since the 15th century, Zanskar has been subordinate to Ladakh, sharing its fortunes and misfortunes. In 1822 a coalition of Kulu, Lahoul, and Kinnaur invaded Zanskar, plundering the country and destroying the Royal palace at Padum.
In the mid-20th century, border conflicts between India, Pakistan and China caused Ladakh and Zanskar to be closed to foreigners. During these wars Ladakh lost two thirds of its original territory, losing Baltistan to Pakistan and the Aksai Chin to China. Ladakh and Zanskar, despite a tumultuous history of internal wars and external aggressions, have never lost their cultural and religious heritage since the 8th century. Thanks to its adherence to the Indian Union, this is also one of the rare regions in the Himalaya where traditional Tibetan culture, society, and buildings survived the Chinese Cultural Revolution. In the last twenty years, the opening of a road and the massive influx of tourists and researchers have brought many changes to the traditional social organization of Zanskar. In 2007 the valley suffered its third year of a desert locust infestation with many villages losing their crops. The response of the monasteries was to carry out a puja (prayer ceremony) to get rid of them while the government was advocating the use of insecticides which the Buddhists were reluctant to use, but in some cases were forced to try with as yet undocumented success. In 2008 it was reported that the Locusts had left the central Zanskar plains.”
Geography of Zanskar & Zanskar Mountain Range
“The Zanskar Range is spread over a vast area from southeastern boundaries of the state of Kashmir and extends in the northwest direction to the eastern limits of Baltistan. It separates Ladakh from the valleys of Kashmir and the Chenab River. In other words, it serves as a boundary line between Ladakh region of Kashmir and the remaining two regions of the state (Jammu and the Vale of Kashmir). The 23,000′ (7000m) high peaks Nun & Kun are within this range. Marbal Pass and many other passes which connect Ladakh with Kashmir are in this area, and the 13,000 feet (4000m) high Zoji La pass is in the extreme northwest of Zanskar range. This range, in fact is a branch of the Great Himalayan Range. Many rivers start in different branches of this range flow northward, and join the great Indus River. These rivers include Hanle River, Khurna River, Zanskar River, Suru River (Indus), and the Shingo River. It also separates Kinnaur from Spiti in Himachal Pradesh. The highest peaks of Himachal are in Zanskar range.
Zanskar covers an area of some 7000 square km at an elevation of 3500-7135m. It consists of the country lying along the two main branches of the Zanskar River. The first, the Doda River, has its source near the Pensi La at 4400m, and then flows south-eastwards along the main valley leading towards Padum, the capital of Zanskar.”
Nun & Kun Peaks
“Early exploration of the massif included a visit in 1898 and three visits by Arthur Neve, in 1902, 1904, and 1910. In 1903, Dutch mountaineer Dr. H. Sillem investigated the massif and discovered the high plateau between the peaks; he reached an altitude of 6,400 m (21,000 ft) on Nun. In 1906, noted explorer couple Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband William Hunter Workman, claimed an ascent of Pinnacle Peak. They also toured extensively through the massif and produced a map; however, controversy surrounded the Workmans’ claims, and few trigonometrical points were given for the region, so that the map they produced was not usable.
After unsuccessful attempts to climb the mountain in 1934, 1937, and 1946 the first ascent of Nun was in 1953 by a French-Swiss-Indian-Sherpateam led by Bernard Pierre and Pierre Vittoz, via the west ridge. The summit pair comprised Vittoz, a Moravian missionary to the Tibetans and an experienced alpinist, and Claude Kogan, a pioneering female mountaineer. Since then, other routes have been pioneered.The north-west face was first ascended on October 27. and 28., 1976 by seven climbers from a Czech expedition, led by F. Čejka. The first British ascent was made by Steve Berry and friends via the east ridge in 1981 (his father had attempted Nun in 1946).
Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza made the first ascent of Kun in 1913, via the north-east ridge. Fifty-eight years passed before the second recorded attempt on the peak, which resulted in a successful ascent by an expedition from the Indian Army.”
Shingo La Pass (Zanskar)
“The second branch is formed by two main tributaries known as Kargiak River, with its source near the Shingo La (5091m) and the Tsarap Chu (River), with its source near the Baralacha La. These two rivers unite below the village of Purne to form the Lungnak River (also known as the Lingti or Tsarap river). The Lungnak river then flows north-westwards along a narrow gorge towards Zanskar’s central valley (known locally as jung-khor), where it unites with the Doda river to form the Zanskar River.”
Zanskar River & the Indus
“The Zanskar River then takes a north-eastern course until it joins the Indus in Ladakh. High mountain ridges lie on both sides of the Doda and Lingti–Kargiak valleys, which run north-west to south-east. To the south-west is the Great Himalayan Range which separates Zanskar from the Kisthwar and Chamba basins. To the north-east lies the Zanskar Range, which separates Zanskar from Ladakh. The only outlet for the whole Zanskar hydrographic system is thus the Zanskar river, which cuts the deep and narrow Zanskar Gorge through the Zanskar range. The Zanskar range spans 640km from the Karcha (Suru) River to the upper Karnali River. Kamet Peak 7756m is the highest point in the range.
These topographical features explain why access to Zanskar is difficult from all sides. Communication with the neighboring Himalayan areas is maintained across mountain passes or along the Zanskar river when frozen. The easiest approach leads from Kargil through the Suru Valley and over the Pensi La. It is along this track that in 1979 the only road in Zanskar was built to connect Padum with the main road from Srinagar into Ladakh. One of the first Tibetologists to spend an extended period in the region was Hungarian scholar Sándor Csoma de Kőrös who spent over a year living in the region in 1823. After being integrated into the newly formed state of India in 1947, Zanskar and the neighboring region of Ladakh were both declared restricted areas and only opened to foreigners in 1974.”
Climate Condition of Zanskar
“Zanskar is a high altitude semi-desert lying on the northern flank of the Himalayan Range. This mountain range acts as a barrier protecting Ladakh and Zanskar from most of the monsoon, resulting in a pleasantly warm and dry climate in the summer. Rain and snowfall during this period are scarce, although recent decades have shown a trend towards increasing precipitation. Several water-driven mills were built during ancient periods of drought at a great distance from the villages, but have been abandoned because running water is now available nearer to the settlements. Zanskari houses, though otherwise well built, are not adapted to the recently increasing rainfall, as their roofs leak, catching their surprised inhabitants unprepared. Most of the precipitation occurs as snowfall during the harsh and extremely long winter period. These winter snowfalls are of vital importance, since they feed the glaciers which melt in the summer and provide most of the irrigation water. Parts of Zanskar valley are considered some of the coldest continually inhabited places in the world.”
Demography of Zanskar
“Zanskar’s population is small, the April 2006 medical census records a population of 13,849 people. Roughly 95% of the inhabitants practice Tibetan Buddhism, while the remainder are Sunni Muslims, whose ancestors settled in Padum and its environs in the 19th century. The majority of Zanskaris are of mixed Tibetan and Indo-European origins; notably Changpa, Dard and Mon. The latter are in fact ethnically Dard, but “Mon” is used in order to distinguish them from later Dard settlers.
The population lives mainly in scattered small villages, the largest being the capital Padum, with nearly 700 inhabitants. Most of the villages are located in the valleys of the Zanskar River and its two main tributaries. Given the isolation of this region, the inhabitants tend towards self-sufficiency, and until recently lived in almost complete autarky. External trade has, however, always been necessary for the acquisition of goods such as tools, jewelery, or religious artifacts.
The Zanskaris’ main occupations are cattle-rearing and farming of land that they almost always own. Cultivable land is scarce, and restricted to alluvial fans and terraces, cultivated fields being rarely found above an altitude of 4000m. The Zanskaris have developed a system of intensive arable agriculture and complex irrigation to produce enough food in these conditions. The scarcity of cultivable land has also resulted in a tendency towards a stable, zero-growth population. An efficient birth-control system in Zanskar has historically been achieved by the common practice of polyandrous marriage, in which several brothers are married to the same wife, and the widespread adoption of a celibate religious life. A high infant mortality rate also contributes to population stability.
In the summer, the women and children stay far away from the villages to tend to the livestock. This system, known as transhumance, is similar to the one found in the Alps where the animals are sent during the summer higher up in the mountains (the alpine meadows) and were kept by the children and women.”
– All Excerpts from Wikipedia
Nubra
Nubra Valley
The Nubra Valley is defined by the Shyok River, a tributary of the Indus, and the Nubra (or Siachen) River, the valley delineating the Ladakh and Karakoram ranges. The northern reaches of the Nubra Valley border Pakistan and the Siachan Glacier, both sensitive military regions often restricted to tourists. Nubra locals speak Balti (as well as Hindi), as do their neighbors in Baltistan, across the border in Pakistan. The Siachen Glacier is the second longest glacier in the world (with the exception of the polar regions), often referred to as the world’s highest and coldest battlefield, with battles over 6000 meters (which ceased after 2003).
Nubra was once an integral part of the fabled trans-Himalayan trade plied along the Silk Road for millenium, bringing great prosperity to this seemingly remote region. Caravans of camel, horse and yaks transported wool, cloth, opium, animal skins, exotic spices, dies such as indigo, and valuable stones such as turquoise, coral and of course gold. The route was treacherous, crossing high Himalayan passes connecting Leh and Yarkand until 1950 when the borders between China (Tibet) and India were sealed. The remnants of this once-important trade are the Bactrian camels, now used as vehicles to give tourists a taste of Central Asia with rides through the sand dunes between Diskit and Hunder. Nubra’s verdant groves of populars and apricots, and fields of billowing barley, all fed by the Shyok and Nubra Rivers, are an oasis in an otherwise stark environment, coloring the timeless Buddhist monasteries of Deskit, Chamba (Hunder), and Samstannling (Sumur) and Ensa, where the chanting, cymbals and horns of Buddhist monks during their morning pujas reverberate through the valley.
The people of Nubra are an interesting mix of the ethnically Tibetan Ladakhis, and Central Asian inhabitants, with blue or green eyes, fairer skin, sometimes freckles, lighter hair and more sculpted features. There are even rumors of a Greek tribe searching for the tomb of Jesus Christ in this region centuries ago, and eventually settled down in what is now known as Nubra. The locals also raise sheep and goats, as well as keeping the Bactrian camels.
Kashmir & Srinagar
Kashmir & Srinagar
The Vale of Kashmir is one of the most prized jewels of the Indian Himalaya, described by Kashmiris as ‘heaven on earth’, famed for its floating gardens and markets on Dal & Nageen Lakes, the fascinating historic Srinagar, the pashmina weaving and other Kashmiri crafts, its heavenly Mughal Gardens, the Shankaracharya Temple and its wonderful houseboat stays.
Around Srinagar there are some of the most beautiful valleys and villages in the Indian Himalaya, as well as some of the world’s most idyllic alpine scenery. Highlights are Dacigram National Park, Manasbal & Wular Lake (the largest lake in Asia), Yousmarg, Naranag Temple (the oldest in Kashmir), Sonmarg and Pahalgam.
We’ve put together several options to tour Srinagar, Kashmir, the famous lakes with their colorful floating markets and shikaras (long-tail boats), either flying in and out of Srinagar or opting for a stunningly beautiful jeep safari over the renown Koji La pass to Leh and Ladakh for a tour of the Indus Valley and its many Buddhist monasteries. We base our tours in Srinagar, where you stay in style on traditional houseboats on the lake, visit the floating market, old Srinagar and its many mosques and markets and the famous Mughal gardens.
See our Travel Books list for recommendations of books to read on this idyllic, but politically complicated, region of Muslims and Hindu Pandits, a region which wants to be free to choose its own destiny.
Great Stays
LADAKH | GREAT STAYS
We use Hotel Shaynam, Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Ladakh and Hotel Omasila as our arrival hotels, depending on availability, your budget and room preferences. We can also book any of the ‘Great Stays’ hotels for you if you’d like to treat yourself to a unique stay in Leh, or elsewhere in Ladakh. Our standard hotel is the Hotel Shaynam where Kim, Lhakpa and the Kamzang Journeys staff stay, a lovely family-run guest house with a blooming garden, deck chairs, tables and umbrellas. We don’t charge a single supplement at Hotel Shaynam, but we do charge single and upgrade supplements for Chospa, Omasila, Hotel Padma Ladakh (see Date & Price tab). Please specify your room preference when booking a trek. Breakfast included in all of the hotels.
Great Stays & Boutique-Luxury in Ladakh
We’re happy to book other hotels of your choice. Splash out on one of Leh’s most luxurious hotels! We will be happy to make any bookings needed …
Hotel Chospa
Hotel Chospa
“Hotel Chospa is a stunning retreat nestled in the heart of the vibrant city centre of Leh, located on the Old Leh Road. This enchanting abode has been curated to cater to the discerning explorer and those who appreciate the finer things in life. Chospa is the union of contemporary hospitality with the scenic and material biome of Ladakh. The architecture mirrors the traditional Ladakhi construction and materiality, rendering an ambience familiar to locals and unique for visitors.”
The Grand Dragon Ladakh
Grand Dragon Ladakh
“Established in 2007, The Grand Dragon Ladakh, one of the first 5 star hotels in Leh Ladakh, is owned and operated by the Abdu family from Leh, who have more than 40 years of experience welcoming visitors to the beautiful region. It is decorated magnificently with handmade paintings by Gulam Mustafa (the first modern artist of Ladakh) around every corner are reminiscent of royalty.”
Stok Palace Heritage Hotel
Stok Palace
“Occupying a high altar of reverence amongst the people of Ladakh, the Namgyal dynasty has resided in the Stok Palace for centuries now. Opened to the public in 1980 with the blessings of the Dalai Lama, Stok Palace today is a boutique and heritage hotel in Ladakh that encapsulates all that this mysterious and beautiful land is.”
Ladakh Sarai
Ladakh Sarai
“Ladakh Sarai started with an erstwhile adventure travel company, Tiger Tops in Stok which lies below the mighty Stok Kangri Range next to the Stok Palace.”
Chamba Camp
Chamba Camp
“Overlooking snow-capped mountains and Thiksey monastery, The Chamba Camp’s tents are superlative. With four poster beds, power showers, bespoke writing desks & private verandahs this is ‘glamping’ to the nth degree. The food is astounding: haute cuisine in high places.”
The Indus River Camp
Indus River Camp
“By day, explore the grounds, go on local hikes, visit surrounding monasteries and palaces, take in local culture or go rafting, trekking, cycling or motorbiking. Or pick a book from our well-curated library and read to the sound of flowing water. In the evening, we take guests for a riverside sunset walk, after which the milky way becomes visible with the naked eye. Sit out under the open sky by the warmth of an open fire and look out at the moon and its craters through our camp telescope.”
The Apricot Tree
The Apricot Tree
“In the most outstanding location, overlooking the flowing River Indus, Apricot Tree is a true escape. With intricate woodwork and ornate, colorful Buddhist paintings there is even a traditional Ladakhi kitchen where meals can be enjoyed. Rooms are large and bright and feature private balconies.”
Nimmu (45 minutes from Leh)
Nimmu House
Nimmu House
“Housed in a traditional Ladakhi stately home this property provides a choice between tented accommodation or rooms in the house. All are effortlessly chic combining modern muted palettes and traditional Ladakhi fabrics and textiles. The food is superb, both French and Ladakhi and all included.”
45 minutes from Leh
Saboo Resorts
Saboo Resorts
“Comprised of 15 traditional yet modern Ladakhi cottages, all with stunning mountain views. There is a restaurant serving Indian, Ladakhi and Tibetan dishes. Dining under the stars, next to the bonfire proves very popular. A perfect location for exploring the Ladakh valley”
Saboo, 30 minutes from Leh
The Unalome Resort (Diskit, Nubra)
The Unalome Resort
“The Unalome Resort is a tranquil and enchanting retreat nestled amidst the majestic landscapes of Diskit, Nubra Valley in Ladakh. Our resort offers a serene escape, allowing you to immerse yourself in the natural splendour and cultural richness of this captivating region.”
Lchang Nang Retreat (Sumur, Nubra)
Lchang Nang
“Lchang Nang retreat – The House of Trees is an eco-conscious luxury hotel and resort in Nubra Valley that celebrates local experiences, people, and culture. Located in the fabled Nubra Valley of Ladakh, on the banks of the Nubra River and on the last stop of the ancient Silk Route. The resort is the very example of a successful and sustainable eco-resort.”
Organic Boutique Hotel (Sumur, Nubra)
Organic Boutique Hotel
A beautiful hotel with large organic gardens, rooms with wooden decks or boutique tents in the willow-shaded alleys of lovely Hunder, in Nubra …
Nubra Eco Lodge (Sumur, Nubra)
Nubra Eco Lodge
“A family run ecotourism venture, located near Sumur sand dunes in the Nubra Valley. The landscape facing the confluence of Shyok and Nubra rivers is the natural habitat for seabuckthorn, wild flowers and desert wildlife. The 11 acre farm with our family home, has been planted with poplar, willow, apricot and apple trees, along with vegetable gardens. It commands a 360 degree view of the Karakoram mountains, the sand dunes and the nubra river.
A large open deck facing the valley near the vegetable garden is used as a lounge or for dining in fair weather. Ideal location to go for long walks along the Sumur sand dunes and the Nubra River. We recommend a minimum two days stay to enjoy the Nubra experience.”
Lotus Eco Resort (Sumur, Nubra)
Lotus Eco Resort
“Situated in the heart of Nubra Valley at a walking distance from the famous sand dunes. Lotus Eco Resort – The Mud House is spread in a sprawling green area of about 4 acres amidst Apricot, willow and poplar trees. Lotus Eco Resort – The Mud House has a well furnished 12 suites embedded with all the modern facilities and yet traditional in all ways, each of the suites is equipped with a beautiful fireplace and couches to sit around.”
Organic Boutique Resort (Hunder, Nubra)
Organic Boutique Resort
“A luxurious hotel which offers peaceful stay at a very attractive location near to nature”. And wonderful organic gardens, with a choice of rooms or semi-luxury tents …
Yourdum Guest House (Hundur, Nubra)
Yourdum Guest House
Pangong Sarai (Pangong Lake, Maan)
Pangong Sarai
“Just like the firefly looks for the undisturbed nature for its environment, Pangong Sarai turns into the home to the migrants in the disconnection. Pangong Tso lake is a surprising marvel in the mountains. The camps give a brave ordeal to the explorers. Climbing around the mountains, trekking and investigating the untouched land are the essentials of being here. We serve you with the flavors of Ladakh in the Pangong style to enrich you in the extreme.”
Spinney Cottage (Pangong Lake, Merak)
Spinney Cottage
“Nestled amidst the stunning landscape of Pangong Lake, our resort boasts 12 cozy wooden cottages, each offering a breathtaking view of the tranquil waters and majestic mountains.”
Ralpa Homestay (Pangong Lake, Merak)
Ralpa Homestay
“A serene retreat on the tranquil shores of Pangong Lake in Merak, Ladakh. Nestled amidst the breathtaking landscapes of the Himalayas, this cozy homestay provides guests with a blend of traditional Ladakhi hospitality and modern comforts. Visitors can enjoy stunning lake views, relish homemade Ladakhi cuisine, and experience the warmth of local culture in a peaceful and picturesque setting, making it an ideal escape for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.”
Sakti Villa (Sakti, Wari La Chemrey Valley)
Sakti Villa
Solpon Homestay (Sakti, Wari La Chemrey Valley)
Solpon Homestay
Holiday Inn (Hanle)
Holiday Inn Hanley
“Hotel Holiday Inn Hanley is located in historic Hanle village. It is the site of the 17th century Hanle Monastery (gompa) of the Drukpa Kagyu branch of Tibetan Buddhism. Hanle is located in the Hanle River valley on an old branch of the ancient Ladakh –Tibet trade route. More recently, Hanle is the home of Hanle observatory, one of the world’s highest sites for astronomical observation.”
Tsering Angmo (Leh): 6899581464
DELHI & RAJASTHAN | GREAT STAYS
There are many great stays in Delhi and Rajasthan; we’ve listed just a few …
Delhi & Rajasthan | 5-Star Hotels
If you want to treat yourself at a five-star hotel, book a room at The Imperial Hotel, the Taj Mahal or the Aman Resort before or after the trek. It’s a great way to wind down from travels or after a trek! All have spas, pools, gardens and many world-class cafes, restaurants and bars within the air conditioned complexes. Room rates vary considerably depending on the season.
The Imperial ($$$)
The Imperial
Taj Mahal Hotel ($$$$)
Taj Mahal
Aman Resorts ($$$$)
Aman Resorts
Delhi | Stylish Hotels
Easy choices …
Bloom Rooms ($$-$$$)
Bloom Rooms
Colonel’s Retreat ($$-$$$)
Colonel’s Retreat
Ahuja Residences ($$$)
Ahuja Residences
Lutyens Bungalow ($$)
Lutyens Bungalow
Delhi | Homestays
Homestays are increasingly becoming popular in Delhi. Search on-line for a good one; they usually provide breakfast, and dinner if requested.
Photos
KIM BANNISTER PHOTOGRAPHY | HIMALAYAN TREKS, CYCLE TRIPS & TRAVELS
Kim Bannister Photography
CYCLE THE HIMALAYA PHOTOS
Guided Cycling Trips
KAMZANG JOURNEYS | ALL ABOUT US IN PHOTOS
Explore Kamzang Journeys
KAMZANG JOURNEYS | YELLOW TENT PHOTOS
The Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness
HIMALAYAN WILDLIFE, BIRDS & FLOWERS PHOTOS
Himalayan Wildlife, Birds & Plants
HIMALAYAN DESIGN & CULTURAL PHOTOS
Himalayan Design & Cultural Photos
KAMZANG JOURNEYS GROUP PHOTOS
Kamzang Journeys Groups
KAMZANG JOURNEYS STAFF PHOTOS
Kamzang Journeys Staff
THE KAMZANG FUND & KAMZANG KIDS PHOTOS
The Kamzang Fund
NEPAL JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Nepal Journey
INDIA JOURNEY PHOTOS
India Journeys
TIBET JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Tibet Journeys
BHUTAN JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Bhutan Journeys
MYANMAR (BURMA) JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Myanmar (Burma) Photos
MONGOLIA JOURNEYS PHOTOS
Mongolia Journeys
SOUTHEAST ASIA PHOTOS
South East Asia Photos
Map
