The Great Bicycle Journey Across Bhutan – Private
Paro – Haa – Thimpu – Punakha – Phobjikha – Trongsa – Bumthang – Mongar – Trashigang – Rangjung – Samdrupjongkahar – Assam (India)
Our Kamzang Journey ultimate Bhutan cycling trip!
We have created this bicycle journey to be easily customized if you have less days, other interests or want to combine with a short trek or more days of sightseeing.
Inquire for options.
This epic journey across Bhutan is the perfect way to experience this exotic, magical and sublimely beautiful Tibetan Buddhist Kingdom, shrouded in myth and legend and adorned with snow-capped Himalayan peaks …
Your Bhutanese guide will lead you across the magical Kingdom of Bhutan and down to Assam, India, by bicycle.
The Bhutan biking is amazing, some of the most scenic, varied and traffic-free in all of Asia with several of the world’s greatest descents, lots of hilly countryside and many high passes to cross. We’ve built in several extra days to explore the traditional villages and remote valleys of Bhutan, the land of the Thunder Dragon. You will bike through the scenic, alpine Haa valley, past the resplendent Punakha Dzong, stop to see the migrating black cranes in idyllic Phobjika, explore the monasteries and dzongs of Bumthang valley and cycle past traditional Bhutanese villages all the way to Tashigang in the far east. The most epic descent is dropping two thousand meters down to Samdrupjongkhar, we finish this bike ride in Assam, eastern India.
En route, you’ll have plenty of prayer-flag festooned Himalayan passes to cross, and epic Himalayan vistas. Of course you will be eating Bhutan’s unique and delicious ema datsi, or cheese & chilly curry along with other regional specialties.
We have included plenty of time in Paro, Thimpu, Punaka, and Bhutan’s other large towns to explore the monasteries, fortresses and visit the museums and restaurants. And as a bonus, we’ve built in a half-day of river rafting near Punakha.
Join us for this wonderful journey through Bhutan …
Trip
The Great Bicycle Journey Across Bhutan – Private
Day 1 – Arrive Paro. Bike to Drukyel Dzong
Day 2 – Paro. Hike to Taksang (Tiger’s Nest). Bike to Paro Dzong
Day 3 – Bike to Haa
Day 4 – Bike to Thimpu
Day 5 – Bike to Punakha
Day 6 – Punakha (daytrip Punakha Dzong & Punakha Valley)
OPTION: White water rafting trip
Day 7 – Bike to Phobjikha
Day 8 – Phobjikha (daytrip Phobjikha Valley
OPTION: Black-necked cranes hike depending on time of year
Day 9 – Bike to Trongsa
Day 10 – Bike to Chumey (Bumthang Valley)
Day 11 – Bike to Jakar (Bumthang Valley)
Day 12 – Bike to Mongar (part by jeep)
OPTION: Stay at homestay in Uma instead of extra day in Phobjhika
Day 13 – Bike to Trashigang
Day 14 – Trashigang (daytrip to Rangjung)
Day 15 – Bike to Samdrupjongkhar (part by jeep)
Day 16 – Transfer Guwahati Airport. Depart
Itinerary
Day 1 – Arrive Paro (Afternoon Ride to Drukyel Dzong 20 km) 2400m
Fly to Paro from the departure city of your choice (see Druk Air schedule: Xplore Bhutan can book your flights for you). The flight into Paro from Kathmandu (and elsewhere) must be one of the most spectacular on the planet. The panorama includes Everest, Kanchenjunga, Shishapangma, Gauri Shankar, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Lhotse, Chamlang, Jannu, Chomoyummo, Pauhunri, Shudu Tsenpa, Jhomolhari and Jichu Drake.
You’ll have an exciting descent into the Paro valley as the captain maneuvers the jet down through the narrow, steep-sided valleys, seeming to barely miss the forested walls on either side. The landings by experienced pilots are always smooth, and clear, blue skies with temperatures in the mid-60s are worth the anxiety of the landing.
You’ll be pickup from Paro Airport by a representative from Xplore Bhutan and transferred to our hotel in Paro, the lovely Tenzinling Resort just outside of Paro town. The rooms here are beautiful, large with high roofs and large windows overlooking the houses of the Paro suburbs and the massive Paro Dzong in the distance. The international flights usually arrive by mid-morning, so after your first traditional Bhutanese lunch you’ll have the afternoon to put your bike together or to check out the Xplore Bhutan bike reserved for you. Bring your own shoes, and pedals if you like …
Bhutanese dishes are delicious if you like meat and chilis. Their national dish is ema dates, whole red or green chilis cooked with butter and cheese and served over rice. As a tourist you’re fed far too many dishes, and you will hardly make a dent in the ema datsi, chicken, potatoes and cheese, cauliflower and cheese, Chinese vegetables and Bhutanese vegetables!
After lunch we’ll head out for an afternoon ride. Leaving central Paro, a much more traditional town than the capital Thimpu, we’ll pass the row of whimsically painted general stores heading out of town and turn steeply up an unpaved street as we ride towards Drukyel Dzong some 10 km up the valley. The valley is bucolic, real Bhutan, and quite relaxed riding. We’ll have time to chat with the smiling kids, all speaking good English, along the way (and some will want to try out the bikes!)
After wandering around the ruins of Drukyel Dzong, perched picturesquely above this green valley packed with intricately decorated Bhutanese houses, we cycle back along the same route, stopping to take photos of the dramatically situated Taksang Gompa, or Tiger’s Nest, one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s haunts back in the 8th century. Back at the hotel, dinner is almost always at Tenzingling Resort, showers are hot, and beers are always stocked! Welcome to Bhutan …
Day 2 – Paro. Hike Taksang Gompa
Today is an acclimatization day, and a chance to hike up through beautiful pine forests to Bhutan’s most iconic landmark, Taksang Gompa, which clings to a huge granite cliff above Paro valley. It’s a five-hour return hike including time at the monastery and lunch, and at this altitude can be a bit tiring, so hike slowly and stay well hydrated. It is believed that Padmasambhava (Guru Rimpoche) came to Bhutan in the 7th century on a flying tigress and meditated in a cave for three months. The demons were subdued who were trying to stop the spread of Buddhism and converted the Paro valley into Buddhism. During the end of the 17th century a monastery was built on the spot where the saint meditated and it is a pilgrimage site for every Bhutanese to visit at least once in their life time.
Once back at the van you’ll have the choice of driving back to the hotel or biking the approximately 15 kilometers into Paro, or half of this back to the Tenzinling Resort.
If time permits, we’ll spend the afternoon in Paro to explore the traditional architecture and visit Rinpung Dzong, otherwise known as Paro Dzong , meaning ‘Fortress on a Heap of Jewels’. The dzong was built in 1644 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal on the foundation of one of Guru Rimpoche’s monasteries and was used to defend the Paro valley from invasions by Tibet. Although the dzong survived the 1897 earthquake, it was severely damaged by a fire in 1907. Like most dzongs in Bhutan, it is now the assembly hall as well as housing the monastic body, district government offices, and courts.
Day 3 – Bike to Haa (approx 85 + 15 km) 2780m
It is a lovely but slightly grueling ride to Haa from about 30 km past Paro, at Chuzong, the confluence of two rivers, the Paro Chu and the Thimphu Chu. The first hour is an easy but steady uphill along an elevated trail high above the Paro Chu and there is more up for another hour and a half until lunch, where we’ll picnik at a beautiful spot on a ridge, lined with ‘chador’, or white prayer flags erected as a memorial for someone when they die. The ridges are full of ‘lha khang’, or small Buddhist gompas, whitewashed with gilded spires. Below, the villages clung to the steep hillsides and the terraced fields of barley, millet, buckwheat and winter wheat slanted steeply down to the river. En route, we’ll have time to stop and visit with Bhutanese on the side of the road, often school kids just about to return to their classes.
A bit after lunch we’ll have the chance to stop at a lovely Bhutanese-styled tea-house with a warm wood fire burning inside; the weather can turn a bit cold in this part of Bhutan and it’s a good chance to take a break from the wind. There are wonderful photo opportunities of older Bhutanese dressed in their traditional ‘ghos’ and ‘kiras’, the women with short hair and bangs, and the men with Western hats. The lively villages, all of them painted with fantastic murals of Bhuddist animals, phalluses (representing the Divine Madman Drukpa Kinley) and ornately-decorated windows an sidings, are bordered with fences along the narrow roads, and stray cats and dogs wander throughout.
Once past Jyenkhana it’s about 15 km further downhill to Haa, and then another 15 km to our lovely hotel, the Lechuna Heritage Lodge, owned by the same group that owns In-Trek Resorts in Nepal. The staff will light a hot fire for us in the bukhari, a common feature in Bhutanese homes and hotels …
Day 4 – Bike to Thimpu (approx 115 km) 2340m
We wake to a picturesque, rural Bhutanese valley often covered in snow in the winter months, and jump on the bike for the lovely 15 km bike ride back to Haa, often with cold fingers, and with time to stop and watch the occassional archery match between Haa and Paro archers, with singing and dancing Tibetan style when someone hit the target. The road is paved out to the end of the valley where the army has a checkpost blocking further explorations. There is a chance for lots of photography in this idyllic setting, traditional Bhutanese houses providing the foreground for snow-covered peaks and pine forests in back.
After tea back in Haa, we’ll drive the route back to our lunch spot from where we continue driving along the main ‘highway’ for 31 kilometers to Thimphu. The last 5 kilometers is along a double laned highway, a change from the rest of bucolic Bhutan. We’ll arrive late in the afternoon, just in time to check into Hotel Galingha, shower and head out to have a quick visit to the new Thimphu market, not nearly as atmospheric as the old market in the field, do a bit of quick shopping.
Day 5 – Bike to Punakha (71 km) 1240m
We have about 5 km of light city riding to get out of Thimpu before we start switchbacking for another 17 km up to the Dochula pass (3140m), one of Bhutan’s most scenic passes overlooking the high snow peaks bordering Tibet. Be careful of the dogs en route as they often travels in packs. At Hongtsho, just 5 km before the pass, there is a lovely, rustic teashop where we can get a cup of chai for the last stretch to the pass. We’ll pass through small hamlets where Tibetan women sell apples (from China) at roadside stalls, past the checkpost and then continue through hillsides of oak, maple and blue pine the the pass.
The Dochula pass has been transformed with 108 new chortens and millions of prayer flags, beautiful examples of Bhutanese Buddhist architecture, a brilliant foreground of the Bhutan Himalaya in the background. The breathtaking panorama includes Masagang (7158m), Tsendagang (6960m), Terigang (7060m), Jejegangphugang (7158m), Kangphugang (7170m), Zongphugang (7060m) and finally Gangkar Puensum (7570m), the highest peak totally inside Bhutan and widely believed to be the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. The Bhutanese government has prohibited the climbing of peaks to respect local customs and the homes of protective spirits.
The chortens were built in 2005 as a memorial for the Bhutanese who lost their lives in the Assam conflict. There are sometimes large pujas on the adjoining hilltop, with incense burning, drums and cymbals and many people circling the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens, commissioned by the Queen Mother, and adding fresh whitewash to the massive, square-based one in the center of the complex.
The Druk Wangyal Lhakang (temple) was built in honor of HM Jigme Singye Wangchuk; the past and future merge in the details of the lhakhang and its structure tells the story of a supreme warrior figure whose vision pierces the future, blending history and mythology.
It is worth a stop just below the pass for tea at a large restaurant overlooking this magnificent scene before continuing down the amazing 42 kilometer ascent to Metshina. The forest heading down is filled with rhododendron, alder, cypress, hemlock and fir, and the damaged road switchbacks relentlessly. The long, downhill cruise (with bumps and potholes) is incredible. The bucolic valleys open up, green with crops and fruit groves and dotted with white Bhutanese houses. As we descend, our cold and wind gear will be quickly shed and we reach a more tropical region of Bhutan as we cycled through bamboo forests, the small road lined with prickly cactus. We pass through a small village and eventually reached Metshina where we might stop for lunch at one of the nicest restaurants of the trip, overlooking this magical valley and a Guru Rimpoche temple. The last 10 or 11 kilometers to Punakha are wonderful, cruising along a paved road with undulating hills, and a final, grueling 100 meter climb to the hotel.
We check into the lovely Damchen Resort quite a ways above the Mo Chu (Punakha sits at the intersection of the Mo Chu and the Phu Chu, the mother and father rivers) and have the option to head out on our bikes to Punakha Dzong, enjoying the rest of the balmy, tropical day on our bikes. Punakha Dzong is perhaps the most impressive of Bhutan’s dzongs, the second one built and the seat of the government until the 1950s. The afternoon light is perfect, illuminating the guilded rooftops …
Day 6 – Punakha Valley & Optional Rafting
We have a wonderful day planned today, first cycling about 15 km up the valley along the Mo Chu to Ugyen of Xplore Bhutan’s kayaking and rafting resort along the river, a fantastic stopping off point for a few days of relaxation and river activities. En route we’ll get to watch the black great cormorants sunning themselves on rounded river rocks and vivid blue kingfishers darting about.
After touring the tropical complex we have two options:
OPTION 1 – Cycle back and have a tour of Punakha Dzong, followed by lunch along the riverbanks. After lunch we can set off one of two excursions, one along a precipitous off-road trail on the western banks of the Pho Chu and another (safer route) crossing the Pho Chu and continuing along the small, sandy road to the suspension bridge about 10 or 15 km past the turnoff. Right after crossing my first bridge we can cycle uphill along a rutted trail for a bit to take a look at the small village just above, soon afterwards backtracking back down to the ‘main’ road. There are plenty of chances to stop and chat with locals, most of whom spoke Nepali. It’s a nice ride back with a cool afternoon breeze, finally crossing the road from the new part of Punakha, called Kuruthang, right to our hotel.
OPTION 2 – Take advantage of the change to raft down the Punakha Chu back to Punakha Dzong, which Xplore Bhutan has arranged for us a special treat. We’ll also have a chance to visit the Punakha Dzong if we spend the rest of the morning rafting.
Day 7 – Bike to Pobjikha (83 km) 2920m
We have a lovely, flat morning cycling along the Punatsang Chu, flat, calm and reflecting the Bhutanese architecture on this windless morning. We’ll follow the bypass road, reaching Wandgue Phodgrang about 7 km later and have a walk around this historic dzong, not as restored or as large as the Punaka Dzong but beautiful with its traditional murals. From the dozing, perched on a hill, we’ll pedal downhill, passed all the time by large trucks as there is roadwork and a ‘timing’ system along this road. The day grows hotter as we descend, the landscape becoming more tropical and resembling Nepal more and more. We will meet the jeep past Chuzomsa where there is an In-trek Hotel, at a small local shop in the hamlet of Tigizampa, about 10 km past Wangdue. We drive past the roadwork (if it is still there, otherwise will cycle) and have a lovely lunch at Nobding, about 17 km below the Lawa La pass, perhaps the best food of the journey. The ride up and over the pass is grueling, becoming more steep towards the top of the pass. Don’t give up!
If the weather is cold, throw your bike into the back of the van at the Lawa La; otherwise, you’ll revel in the long descent from the pass to Pobjikha. We might stop to look at a beautiful Bhutanese house divided in two, with a porch in front connecting the two. On our exploratory trip an extended family and Lama were enjoying the afternoon sun on the deck, and I stopped to take a photo of the beautiful house and setting. It turned out that Karma knew the family and they invited us up. The Lama was having a puja for a young girl (the neighbor’s, we’re not sure if it was a relative) who had some disabilities. We spent some time outside with the family and then went inside to the common room around the fire for an hour afterwards. The Lama had the seat of honor in front of the fire with his back propped up against the far wall. A very young Rimpoche, perhaps two years old, dressed in gold and yellow, was the son of one of the families and ran around the large room chasing a yellow ball …
We stay for the next two nights at a fantastic hotel called Dewachen. The rooms are huge with their own stoves and big windows, traditionally decorated in a rustic style, and the dining room was lively with an enormous bukhari stove to sit around. Enjoy a few beers around the wood-burning stove in the dining room, and chat with other tourists who have come to see the black-necked cranes …
Day 8 – Pobjikha Valley
We have the day to cycle and hike around the beautiful Pobjikha valley, starting the morning with a ride to Gangtey Gompa, the first Nyimgmapa temple in Bhutan. It was started in 1613 by the grandson and reincarnation of Pema Lingpa, and the rest finished by his reincarnation. The gompa is spectacularly set, overlooking the glacial Pobjikha Valley with its endangered black necked cranes who spend the winter in this valley feasting on the dwarf rhododendron which grows in the swampy glacial soil. The cranes are said to circle the gompa three times before setting off on their hazardous journey to Tibet for the summer, and in fact they actually do, probably catching the thermals up to start them off on their long migration.
We have an option to hike along a sign posted ‘Nature Trail’, circling the cranes on the other side of the valley, and getting good photos of them taking off and landing nearby. We’ll have lunch at a local restaurant before returning to the hotel.
Next up, a bumpy ride to a few villages about 5 (+) kilometers down the valley; you can continue quite a ways down this small road. Just before reaching the hotel there is a general store (cum bar) where fairly inebriated locals hang out, and lots of people speak Nepali.
Day 9 – Bike to Trongsa (69 km) 2180m
We leave the hotel and cycle back up to Gangey Lhakhang, about a half an hour’s gentle ride uphill. The small country road passes several small shops and houses, and then climbs past the Amankora Resort, afterwards winding through open forests of pine and fir. We’ll then continue ascending towards the Lawa La pass, where yaks graze by the whitewashed, square chorten. It’s only 3 kilometers to the next pass, the Pele La, which is about 100 meters higher than the Lawa La.
A great cruise down the pass on a narrow but good road, almost car-free, often freezing cold, brings us to a few local villages. We can stop to buy a locally woven baskets close to the bottom of the hill before continuing 5 kilometers more to the beautifully set Chendebji Chorten, surrounded by white prayer flags on long poles. This is a Nepali-style chorten, whitewashed with a rounded dome and Buddha eyes.
We’ll have lunch nearby, afterwards continuing on a lovely, nearly flat road for about another 10 kilometers. The temperature is usually perfect at just under 2500 meters, and the road winds its way through idyllic Bhutanese countryside. We pass a small gompa with a large contingent of maroon-clad monks – Tashi Choboling? – which is said to be the center of the country. Karma, our guide, says the center is at Trongsa. A further 20 kilometers or so of cruising downhill on this rural road, now becoming more wooded, brings us to a viewpoint of Trongsa Dzong, the oldest in the country, built in the 16th century. Just past the dzong we have a seriously fast and windy downhill, lots of fun, to the bridge from where it is a 5 kilometer ride uphill to Trongsa.
Trongsa is a true fortress-style dzong, wonderfully atmospheric, where monks wander in and out feeding the pigeons and going about their daily routines, watched over by the ‘disciplinary monk’, a throwback to olden days. We’ll spend the night in Trongsa at the newest hotel in town.
Day 10 – Bike to Chhume (Bumthang Valley) (39 km) 2935m
We start the day with a 28 kilometer climb up to the top of the Yotung La at 3425 meters, afterwards descending for 11 kilometers to scenic Chhume valley below. As we drop we pass through lovely pine and fir forests lined with dwarf rhododendrons and then a fenced country road with lots of options for afternoon explorations. Chhume is a lovely valley, and the lodge one of the nicest in Bhutan, so worth spending the rest of the day here. After lunch, whoever wants can cycle together or on their own around the small country lanes, stopping for a chat at the many general stores where the Bhutanese tend to congregate. We’ll spend the night at the charming Chhume Nature Resort, managed by Miss Pem.
Day 11 – Bike to Jakar (Bumthang Valley) (approx 30 km) 2585m
Waking to a misty Bhumtang landscape, the wide valley opens up before us and brightens with the first morning’s rays. We’ll cycle through the idyllic country lanes fenced in pine (which is actually some the major east-west highway in Bhutan), stopping to look at textiles and some of Bhutan’s exquisite silk scarves en route. We have an easy climb to the Kiki La (pass), adorned with colorful prayer flags on long, erect poles and then a long, winding descent down to the second valley in Bumthang, finally along the Jakar Rong Chu. We may stay at the Wangdicholing Resort, owned by Karma’s younger sister, a few kilometers before the main town of Jakar. Jakar has had two fires in the past year, so is presently under reconstruction, but there are still enough shops open to get the feel of it. We’ll have lunch at the hotel, in front of a hot bukhari stove. After digesting, we’ll get back on our bikes to do some sightseeing in Jakar, a wonderful and historic valley.
The majestic Jakar Dzong, built in 1549, is first on the afternoon sightseeing agenda. Next, the ancient and atmospheric Jampey Lhakhang, built it 659 by King Songsten Gampo on the same day as Kyichu Gompa in Paro in order to pin down the body of a Tibetan demoness. Here we’ll notice older Bhutanese doing ‘koras’ and counting their prayer beads, praying for a good rebirth. Next to this is the wonderful Kurjey Lhakhang, the oldest temple of which was built in 1652. The next temple was built in 1900 by Sanpa Lhundrup, the first king of Bhutan, and the last in 1984 by the queen mother, Ashi Kesang Wangchuck. The last temple was built over a cave with the body print of Guru Rimpoche, so a sacred spot. Finally, we’ll returned to town, cross the bridge and cycle about 7 kilometers up the eastern valley to visit Tampshing Lhakhang, built in 1501 by Pema Lingpa. Enough for one day!
Up another valley is the Tampshing Lhakhang, situated along a lovely country road, and the Red Panda brewery. Nearby you can buy delicious Guda cheese at the local dairy shop. A Swiss man was the force behind both the beer and the cheese. Local apple juice and apple brandy are also available, the juice being just like the apple juice in Manang, Nepal. Back in the center of town are more shops, some owned by Tibetans, families whose refugee descendents fled Tibet in 1959.
Day 12 – Bike to Mongar (part by jeep – 195 km) 970m
We leave beautiful Jakar valley cycling back over yesterday’s bridge, and then turning right, perfect cycling along the Chamkhar Chu for the first 10 kilometers. The road eventually starts to climb gradually past fenced farmhouses, potato fields, cows and local Bhutanese outside doing their house errands. Higher up, perhaps 20 kilometers into the ride, we are high above the valley and snow peaks open up around us, absolutely spectacular. Soon we’ll passed several groups of white prayer flags.
After cycling about 26 kilometers we reach the lovely and scenic village of Tangsibi, at about 3000 meters. Here, Ugyen’s father-in-law built a wonderful white chorten between his house, which is now empty, and the road. Villager circumambulate this chorten daily. From here we’ll probably get into the van as we have almost 200 kilometers to cover, (which would take 7+ hours in a jeep) and drive for a while. We’ll pass rhododendron trees as we ascend to the crest of the Shertung La (3590m), which is 47 km from Jakar. Back on the bikes, we cruise down the pass for a short time passing the idyllic village of Ura, with its gompa backing the closely packed houses, and then cycle up along another dramatic and traffic-free narrow road for another 6 or 7 kilometers. We’ll again jump into the van and wind our way up, and up, for a long ride to the Thrumshing La (3735 meters), the highest pass on the main highway of Bhutan.
It’s a fantastic descent through the Thrumshing National Park along a cliff-side road through alpine rain forest, nerve-racking if you’re nervous about exposure, very exhilarating otherwise. Just before the descent we’ll stop for lunch at a chorten at Sangor, and then cycle the 62 km through beautifulto Kuri Zampa, 3200 meters below the pass, where we cross the bridge and have a last 25 km ascent to reach Mongar.
The weather will become warmer as we drop below 2000 meters, and the descent great as we contour high over the terraced fields, houses and prayer flags far below us. The scenery is similar to the Arun Salpa valley in Nepal, with a river far below and fruit trees and terraced fields, simpler houses and animals covering the landscape. En route, women sell dried, salted banana and pomellos, Indian-style dhabas line the roadside and many villagers who speak perfect Nepali.
We stay at a new hotel in Mongar, the nicest in town and will be ready for a shower, dinner and a well-deserved beer.
NOTE: We have an option of doing this ride in 2 days and staying at a home stay in Uma. IF we do this we will use our extra day in Pobjhika.
Day 13 – Bike to Trashigang (98km) 1100m
We have a long day today, cycling all the way to Tashigong some 95 kilometers from Mongar, nearly as far east as you can go in Bhutan. We will probably start the morning in short-sleeve shirts, which will be appreciated on the 18 kilometer ride up the Kori La (2380m). The ascent isn’t too steep but continuous, an 800 meter climb from Mongar. The countryside is still bathed in the morning mist, the colors of the terraced fields muted. We’ll stop for a break at a bright crimson wild cherry tree, usually covered in chatty warblers feeling upside-down on the flowers, and perhaps watch a kestrel chasing an eagle over a valley covered in white flowering daphne and red rhododendrons. From the pass we’ll have a fantastic 21 kilometer downhill through pine forests to the quaint village of Yadhi (1480m). We’ll stop for tea at a traditionally-styled teahouse, with a sunny courtyard and dried chilis and tiny tomatoes, a chance to see more of rural Bhutan. Beyond Yadhi we continue our descent, the many tight swithbacks called the ‘Yadhi Loops’, finally reaching the riverside 350 meters and 10 kilometers later. We drop down to 650 meters and it will for sure be hot and humid ….
Crossing a bridge over the Shere Chhu in the heat of the day, we have a scorchingly hot 200 meter ascent on an incredible cliff-side road over the river which seems to continue endlessly, again reminiscent of the Arun Salpa valley. About an hour later we drop back down to Rolong, a great spot where they serve a local-style lunch outside under a thatched roof, with the river breeze barely cooling us. Wonderful, very reminiscent of Nepal or India. We continue after lunch on a ‘flat’ road to the bridge at Chazam, at just over 700 meters, from where we look straight up the ridge to Trashigang Dzong. Then a last, grueling 10 kilometer (400 meter) climb against headwind, stopping for sweet mango juice for energy every few kilometers.
Finally we arrive at the tiny village of Trashigang, with a medieval atmosphere, perched precariously along the steep hillside. Trashigang is an interesting village of small Indian-styled shops and local-style hotels crunched together around a small square with a prayer wheel in the center. We’ll stay at one of Trashigang’s newer hotels, although I have fond memories of our basic hotel on the exploratory trip, sitting outside under leafy trees having our sundowners …
Day 14 – Dayride to Rangjung (30 km)
We have a slightly more leisurely day of biking today to visit the idyllic Ranjung village, a return journey of 30 km along perfect country roads.
We’ll drive the last 10 kilometers from Chazam to Trashigang unless you’re a glutton for punishment. The Lepcha Cafe is run by Lepchas, a cast of Nepalis from Sikkim, worth a stop in.
Day 15 – Bike to Samdrup Jonkar (part by jeep – 181 km)
Our last day of cycling, sadly … We leave Trashigang early and take the left fork towards the south of Bhutan. It’s a perfect, winding road contouring its way up towards the first of a series of passes and ridges, past the county’s only college, Sherubtse, at Kanglung. A few kilometers past the college is Yongphula, which is supposed to be a pass at 2190 meters on the map, but ends up as a village. From here, the road continues to switchback higher and higher, passing a row of seven new white chortens near the ‘Yongphula 0’ sign. Back in 2011 much of this road was under construction, hot an dusty, so we’ll have to decide which sections are worth cycling, which others are better done in the van. It’s a beautiful road with expansive views and many hills, which gets hot mid-day. Further along the road is an incredibly exposed section, the longest stretch of narrow, exposed, cliff-hugging road in the country. Some of it has a guard rail, fortunately!
The last 100 kilometers or so, past Womrong, the road twists and turns, only occasionally having any sort of barrier to prevent cars and trucks from hurdling down the steep ravine thousands of meters below. The surrounding countryside is a magical mash of steep hills covered in thick jungle, with hamlets and lone houses perched precariously on small cultivated bits of land. We eventually reach the border town of Samdrup Jonkar in the early evening, a typical border town, a mix of Indian and Bhutanese and a jumble of characterless hotels and dirty streets. We stay in a basic hotel, have our last meal of ema datsi, and reminisce about the great bike journey across Bhutan ….
Day 16 – Drive to Guwahati (India) – Depart
We’ll be up early for breakfast and to meet our drivers to the airport at Guwahati, India, just across the Bhutan-Indian border. After 4 kilometers of ‘no man’s land’ we’ll reach the border of Bhutan and India, a rural cement shack, fortunately without a computer or knowledge of the new rule about not entering India twice in two months.
Breathing a sigh of relief that you won’t have to live out the rest of you life in this four square kilometer section, we’ll continue along the main road, a typically Indian road which we share with rickshaws, ox carts, bicycles overloaded with families, cows and barefoot villagers. We drive past rice paddies and thatched huts, a completely different world than the idyllic one which we just left behind in Bhutan. The sounds, smells and energy of predominantly Hindu India are something truly unique, that either attract or repel. The border post into India is a wooden shack with a huge ledger. Goodbye Bhutan!
From Guwahati, there are easy flights to Calcutta or elsewhere in India, with further connections to Nepal or anywhere else in the world. Book your flights early …
Highlights & Reviews
Trip Advisor Reviews
Client Highlights
Once again I carefully chose Kamzang for my exotic, indulgent trip to Bhutan. All praise to Kim and Lhakpa for making sure this was the best possible trip for our money, a trek in a very expensive/ exclusive part of the Himalayas. It was tough, it was amazing and it was the best thing I have ever done. Kim and Lhakpa spun their special magic to make this trek amazing. The Bhutanese guide Tse Tse made sure we had a good run down of what to expect each day.
Our tough trek, mud, rain, snow was everything we expected, however our time in camp, our food and our morale was always boosted by Kim and Lhakpa on even the toughest of days – and this is what we all signed up for – you cannot do the Snowman Trek and think it will be easy.
I am so glad I did this trek with Kamzang Journeys. I would do the toughest trek with Kamzang anywhere in the world. You will always get safety, dedication and genuine concern from these guys, they will ultimately help you reach your potential, and you will become friends for life. They will help you go forward with your trekking goals. Thanks guys. I will book again can’t wait.
– Shannon F (Australia), Bhutan Lunana Snowman Trek 2016
Read More Testimonials
Trekkers’ Comments
Trip Highlights
- Great biking on relatively traffic-free roads …
- Black-necked cranes at Phobjika
- White water rafting in Punakha Valley
- Buddhist monasteries in Bumthang Valley
- Dzongs at Trashigang & Mongar
- Markets at Paro & Thimpu
- Punakha Dzong
- Drukgyal Dzong
- Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) Monastery
- Remote Haa Valley
- Idyllic side-trips in lovely valleys
- Traditional villages & cultures
- Spectacular mountain vistas & passes
- THE best of Bhutan
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip + Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Online Articles on Bhutan
Soaking in a Unique Bath Culture | BBC Travel
Why Don’t People See the Yeti Anymore? | BBC
Bhutan, a Higher State of Being | New York Times
Bhutan Untamed: Snow Leopards on the Snowman Trek | Telegraph
Bhutan’s Dark Secret to Happiness | BBC Travel
Bhutan’s Enlightened Experiment | National Geographic
Bhutan Rising | WWF
Bhutan: Travel Blueprint | Wanderlust UK
Creating a Future for Healthy Forests in Bhutan | WWF
Phallus Art Brings Luck in Bhutan – And Tourists, Too | New York Times
Date & Price
2019 Dates
Feb | March tba
Custom Excursions Available
16 days
Private Trip Price 2 | 3 Cyclists – $4780
Private Trip Price 4+ Cyclists – $4280
Single supplement – $500
Minimum 2 cyclists
Discount for larger groups – Inquire
Discount for personal bicycle – $200
Bike rental (Kona Lanai) – Free
Includes
- Accommodation at 3 & 4-star hotels
- Sightseeing & entry fees
- All meals
- Group transportation by Toyota vans or Coaster vans (depending on group size)
- Airport transfers
- Bhutanese guide
- Bhutanses cycle mechanic
- Bike rentals (Kona Lanai)
- International flight booking services
- Bhutan visa fees & tourism royalties
- Sleeping bag if needed
Excludes
- Travel or travel health insurance
- International flights
- Alcohol & bottled drinks
- Laundry
- Tips & other items of a personal nature
Tips & Extra Cash
Bring shopping and drinking money! We recommend $150 per trekker as tips for the staff, and an extra $200-$300 to spend during the trip.
Contact & Details
Kamzang Journeys Contact
Kim Bannister
kim@kamzang.com
kamzangkim@gmail.com
Mobile: +(977) 9803414745 (WhatsApp), 9863196743
Kathmandu Contact
Khumbu Adventures
hiking.guide@gmail.com
Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841235461, 9705235461
Doma Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841510833, 9705510833
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa Mobile: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp),
Bhutan Contacts
INNER ROUTES
Owner | Loja Sureg
sloja2013@gmail.com
+975 17 420 433
Office | Jigme & Pema
jigmelojaktbt@gmail.com, Pema tobgayloja@gmail.com
Garmin InReach | Unlimited On-Trek Text Messages + Route Map
We have a Garmin MapShare page and a Garmin InReach satellite messaging device for sending and receiving messages on the treks guided by Kim + Lhakpa. Give the link to people who want to follow or communicate with us and have them send a message. The ‘message’ button is on the top left of the email link that they receive; the sender needs to input an EMAIL address (instead of mobile number) to get a response. You can email them back directly during the trek (the device is linked to my mobile) as much as you’d like. Messages are free, enjoy!
Follow Us on Facebook
Kamzang Journeys Facebook
I will post InReach updates to our Kamzang Journeys Facebook page if friends & family want to follow our progress.
Bhutan Visas
Our Bhutan agent will issue your Bhutan visa and email it to you at least 10 days before your arrival in Paro.
Indian Visa
You will have to have an e-Tourist Visa for the end of our trip, entering Assam. Be sure to have your Indian Visa before arrival in India. Most countries qualify for the new visa-on-arrival system, which is valid for 30 days, and is double entry. NOTE that you need to apply and pay for the visa BEFORE arriving in India. You get the actual visa with your paid application once in India.
Indian Visa
Indian Visa Reference
You can print out + fill out your Visa on Arrival form before arriving in India, but you need to apply for the visa before leaving for India.
Travel Agent Delhi: Dhruv Travels, 2464, Nalwa St, Chuna Mandi, Paharganj, New Delhi, 110055, India, +91 11 2358 2715
Hotel Delhi: Jyoti Mahal Guest House, 2488-90 Nalwa Street, Chuna Mandi, Pahar Ganj, New Delhi,110055, +91 1123580523/24/25/26
Indian Visa Note
You will need a 30-day e-Tourist Visa for India, as well as for Bhutan (our Bhutan agent gets these) for this bicycle trip. Book your onward ticket out of Guwahati from early afternoon onwards on Day 18. Do book extra luggage when leaving Guwahati as extra luggage in India is $$$.
Flights To + From Bhutan
Our Bhutan agent can issue your flight to Paro from various destinations and can book your return flights, whether from Paro or from Guwahati in Assam, India. You can also book your own flights to Bhutan and from Bhutan or India. At the moment Druk Air is the only carrier flying into and out of Bhutan.
Travel Medical Insurance
Required for your own safety. We carry a copy of your insurance with all contact, personal and policy information with us on the trek and our office in Kathmandu keeps a copy. Note that we almost always trek over 4000 meters (13,000′) and that we don’t do any technical climbing with ropes, ice axes or crampons.
Global Rescue Rescue Services
We recommend (but don’t require) that our trekkers sign up for Global Rescue services as a supplement to your travel medical insurance. You can book this directly through our Kamzang Journeys site.
Global Rescue
Medical On-Trek
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs and other essentials. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please do have a full check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety.
DO bring all prescription medications and rehydration powders-electrolytes. We advise bringing your own Diamox, Ciprofloxin, Azithromycin + Augmentin. We do have all of these with us, but the Western versions are generallly more reliable than the Indian equivalents. See Gear List for a full list of recommended medications for the trek.
Bhutan Health Information
CDC
We also recommend bringing probiotics with you to help prevent infections while on trek. Doctor’s recommendation!
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
General Bhutan Information
See Bhutan Tab
Arrival Paro
Bhutan Contacts
INNER ROUTES
Owner | Loja Sureg sloja2013@gmail.com
+975 17 420 433
Office | Jigme jigmelojaktbt@gmail.com, Pema tobgayloja@gmail.com
Early Arrival in Bhutan
You will be met at the Paro airport by a representative from our Bhutan travel agency. Look for a sign with your name on it, they will be looking for you. You’ll be driven to the hotel in Paro where you will meet Kim, Lhakpa and those from the group who have already arrived. Everything is included in Bhutan, so if you arrive early you’ll have a driver, car and guide at your disposal.
Arrival Hotel
Provide upon Booking
Flights To + From Bhutan
Our Bhutan agent can issue your flight to Paro from various destinations and can book your return flights, whether from Paro or from Guwahati in Assam, India. You can also book your own flights to Bhutan and from Bhutan or India. At the moment Druk Air is the only carrier flying into and out of Bhutan.
Bhutan Visas
Our Bhutan agent will issue your Bhutan visa and email it to you at least 10 days before your arrival in Paro.
Currency, Credit Cards + ATMS
Bhutanese Ngultrum = Indian Rupee. Although the national currency is the ngultum, IC is accepted throughout Bhutan.
+ In 1974, the ngultrum was introduced, replacing the rupee at par. The ngultrum is equal in value to the Indian rupee. India was key in assisting the Bhutanese government as it developed its economy in the early 1960s. When the ngultrum was introduced, it retained the peg to the Indian rupee which the Bhutanese rupee had maintained. The ngultrum does not exchange independently with other nations’ currencies but is interchangeable with the Indian rupee.
You’ll want local currency with you on the trip and trek for drinks, snacks, beer, soda and general shopping. There are many chances to shop during the trip, especially in eastern Bhutan, and usually local crafts to buy en route. There are ATMs in Paro, Thimpu and other cities, and you’ll want some cash to change as well.
Most larger craft shops in Thimpu, Paro and Punakha will accept credit cards, although there is generally a merchant fee surcharge. Credit cards aren’t as widely accepted in the central or east of Bhutan.
Tipping in Bhutan
Tips are best in local currency, the Bhutanese ngultrum. Guides and drivers will expect tips when you last see them, so for sightseeing sections before the trip, the drivers will expect small tips, and the same for the drivers after the trip.
Bhutan Temperatures + Dress Etiquette
See GEAR LIST tab for suggested gear. This is a winter bicycle trip, and although it can be cold or wet on the passes (rain or snow), generally the temperature isn’t very cold, and evenings are spent in warm lodges, often with stoves! The winter months (November – March) are chilly in the mornings, cold enough that you might start the day in a down jacket, but warm up to jeans and t-shirt weather by late morning.
For other private cycling trips: Much of Bhutan in the Spring and Autumn is warm during the day (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirt weather), cools down in the afternoon. Nights are often below freezing although they can also be much warmer. Summer is hotter and wetter. Nights require a down jacket if you’re sitting outside. It never hurts to have an umbrella in Bhutan as it can rain at any time of the year!
Dress conservatively in the cities and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are OK if they aren’t too short, NO shorts or tank tops in the monasteries. Use your good judgment! See Bhutan Tab for the Bhutanese dress code.
Shopping in Bhutan
Bhutan is known for its crafts and textiles, and there are many local craft markets around Bhutan where you can pick up wonderful things to bring home. Your guide will help if you’re interested in shopping while in Bhutan!
Gear
Kamzang Journeys Products
Duffel Bags, T-Shirts, Camp Towels, Buffs, Leather Passport Wallets, Totes & Bags, Himalayan Textile Pillow Covers & More!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Gear List
Guideline for the gear you will need on the trek. Please ask if you have questions. 20 kg per person!
- Duffel Bag
- Day Pack (30-45 L)
- Sleeping Bag (-10 to 20F/-23C to 30C)
- Air Mattress
- Down Jacket
- Trekking Boots
- Running Shoes or Lighter Shoes (optional)
- Crocs (evenings + washing)
- Hiking Sandals (or Crocs – river crossings)
- Trekking Pants (2-3)
- T-Shirts (2-3)
- Long-sleeve Trekking Shirts (2-3)
- Trekking Jacket
- Wind + Waterproof Jacket + Pants
- Fleece or Thermal Top + Bottom (evenings)
- Lightweight Long Underwear (sleeping + layering)
- Socks (4-6)
- Gloves (lighter + heavier for passes)
- Wool Hat
- Baseball Cap or Wide-brimmed Hat
- Camp Towel
- Trekking Poles (optional, recommended)
- Down Booties (optional, recommended)
- Sunglasses (+ extra pair)
- Water Bottles | Nalgenes (2-3)
- Bladder (optional, recommended)
- Toiletries, Sunscreen with SPF, Lip Balm with SPF
- Watch (or alarm)
- Extra Batteries
- Battery Chargers
- Head Lamp
- Yak Trax or Micro Spikes (for treks with icy passes)
- Small Water Filter or Steripen (optional, to carry in daypack)
- Camp Washing Bowl (optional, collapsible for clothes)
- Laundry Detergent or Bio-degradable Clothes Soap
- Hand Sanitizer
- Small Solar Panel (optional, recommended for iPods, iPhones, camera batteries, Kindles)
- Book(s)
- Zip-Lock Plastic Bags (extra protection for electronics, toiletries)
- Soft Toilet Paper | Tissues (we supply toilet paper but you will want something softer for blowing your nose)
- Baby-Wipes | Wet-Wipes (for personal cleaning)
- Handi-Wipes, J-Cloth or Chux (optional – quick clean, fast drying)
- Rehydration | Electrolytes
- Snacks!
- Personal Medical Supplies
Medical + Suggested MEDS
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs etc. but please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety!
Suggested prescriptions + meds: Dexamethasone, Nifedipine + Diamox (altitude), Azithromycin, Ciprofloxacin + Augmentin (antibiotics), Compeed or blister bandages, Tegaderm, bandages, tape, antibiotic ointment + Betadine (Povidone-Iodine ointment) (wounds + cuts), knee + ankle supports/braces (if required), ACE bandage for sprains + strains. Bring whatever pain meds you generally use (Ibuprofen, Paracetamol/Tylenol, Diclofenac), meds for diarrhea (Loperimide/Immodium) and nausea (Ondansetron), antihistamines (non-drowsy, and Benadryl is ok for a drowsy one that might help with sleep), as well as any medications that you take regularly or that your doctor prescribes. We recommend picking up a combination salmeterol and fluticasone inhaler in Kathmandu, good for (from a doctor trekking friend “high altitude cough due to reactive airways, which is kind of like temporary asthma. The ingredients in the inhaler relax the bronchial passages and calm inflammation in the airways.”
Stay away from sleeping medications, drugs in the codeine-opiate-narcotic family and other drugs that suppress your breathing (not a good at altitude). And don’t forget electrolytes! – have some with you in your pack (as well as snacks) every day please …
We’re happy to take excess medical supplies off your hands when you leave if you won’t need them and pass them on to others. We use lots of the large amount we have with us to treat locals as well as our own trekkers…
Comments on Gear
Layers are essential for trekking. Quality is more important than quantity. It’s worth investing in the great, newer lightweight trekking gear available in all gear shops, online or in Kathmandu.
Kim’s Gear Suggestions: I generally wear a trekking t-shirt, light trekking pants, a mid-weight shirt, a lightweight synthetic jacket (instead of a fleece), a lightweight jacket and pants for wind and rain. If the weather looks stormy or it’s a pass day I carry a lightweight down jacket and a storm-weight jacket. I always have a pair of lightweight gloves (heavier ones additionally for pass days), a hat, a baseball cap and an extra pair of socks in my day-pack. I generally trek in low Merrill hiking shoes, and Keen boots on very cold days and over passes. I always carry Crocs with me in case of river crossings, or to air my feet at lunch. I carry a 38 L (although it looks larger) Black Diamond day pack although I also love Osprey packs. On pass days I carry Yak Trax and trekking poles, and I always have an extra pair of sunglasses, electrolytes, my camera, a medical kit, a Steripen, snacks and lots of water in my pack. My favorite gear brands available in Kathmandu are Sherpa Gear, Mountain Hardwear and Marmot. I wear lots of Patagonia gear although it’s not available in Kathmandu.
Good trekking boots are essential. High boots are best, but you don’t need climbing or plastic boots (for mini-crampons or micro-spikes). You can also get away with low, sturdy trekking boot, which I wear quite often except for over the passes. Trekking poles are not required but strongly recommended, especially for going down passes which are often steep and icy and for treks with river crossings. Bring gators if you tend to use them but they’re not required if you don’t own a pair. Micro-spikes (mini-crampons) or YakTraxs are almost always useful (or essential) for the pass crossings. We will have at least one ice ax with us. It’s also good (possibly essential) to have a pair of plastic Crocs for washing and to wear in the lodges in the evenings. Tevas take a long time to dry and are relatively heavy.
Good, polarized sunglasses are essential. Do bring an extra pair. Don’t forget a sun hat and/or a baseball cap, an extra headlamp and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF!
The weather is changeable in the Himalaya, so again I recommend that everyone has a strong, WATERPROOF duffel bag for the trip (although they do tend to weigh more). We supply covers that go over the duffel bags to protect them from rain, dirt & rips.
Nights are cold, so a down jacket and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. For your sleeping bag, we recommend a DOWN bag of 0 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C). Mine is -20 F. At lower altitudes I open it and sleep under it like a quilt and up higher am toasty warm during the cold nights. Campsites near passes can get COLD. Rentals available. The dining tent is a Tibetan style ‘yurt’, with blankets and camp chairs on the ground. It warms up in the evenings with the gas lamp but it is still important to have warm clothes for the evenings. I always use down booties which are great when it’s cold, but a pair of thick wool socks also work.
Bring extra large plastic bags or stuff-sacks in case of rain. You can pack electronics in them or stash your sleeping bag and clothes. The weather is changeable in the Himalaya, so again I recommend that everyone has a strong, waterproof duffel bag for the trip. We supply covers that go over the duffel bags to protect them from rain, dirt & thorns.
Tents
Everyone gets their own Western tent without a single supplement. Tents supplied by Xplore Bhutan.
Day Pack
We recommend a 35-45 liter day pack (ask at your gear shop if you’re not sure of the capacity). Better to have it too large than too small as on pass days you’ll need to carry more warm gear. Most have internal water bladders built in, which are good for ensuring that you stay hydrated. Make sure it fits and is comfortable before purchasing!
In your day pack, you will be carrying your camera, 2+ liters of water, a jacket, wind & rain pants, hat, gloves, extra socks, sunscreen, snacks, electrolytes, water purifying tablets, filter, or Steripen camera, hand sanitizer, a pack-cover and often a down jacket. I slip my Crocs on the back in case of unexpected stream crossings or for lunch.
Water
We bring KATADYN expedition-sized water filters along on the trek for fresh drinking water, ecologically the best way to get water in the Himalaya’s fragile trekking regions. Bring your own filter pump, Steripen/UV purifier or iodine/chlorine tablets for fresh water while trekking. NOTE: To be extra safe with your drinking water, you can drop one purifying tablet into your water bottle after filling with our filtered water. Make sure you wait the required amount of time before drinking, and don’t add anything with Vitamin C as this negates the iodine.
Please bring at least TWO (and better three) Nalgene, Sigg or other unbreakable plastic/metal water bottles. Camelbacks and other bladder systems are good for trekking but can leak, so as a back-up it’s best to also bring a Nalgene or other water bottle.
NOTE: We do not provide boiled water for drinking on either our tea-house/lodge or our camping treks although there is endless hot water for herbal, black or green teas, hot chocolate, hot lemon as well as Indian chai and Kashmiri tea.
Snacks
You will NEED snacks hiking at altitude, even if you’re not a snacker. People crave unusual foods at altitude! Energy bars, ‘GU’ gels, chocolate bars, dried fruit & nuts, beef jerky (or whatever) are important to have along for long days, before lunch and passes. Lemonade mix, Emergen-C or similar drink mixes are great to have for hot days in your water bottles, and it is ESSENTIAL to bring electrolytes with you every day.
Packing & Storage
It’s easiest to pack and unpack from a duffel bag, especially when the temperature drops, and easiest for porters to carry. Inexpensive and decent quality duffels are available in Kathmandu (if you’re passing through) but it’s best to invest in a strong, waterproof duffel such as a North Face. You can store extra gear with Xplore Bhutan before the trek.
Travel Photography Gear Guide
The Complete Guide to Gear for the Landscape Photographer
Bhutan
Bhutan
Shrouded for centuries in the misty serenity of the great Himalayas, the Land of the Thunder Dragon, or Bhutan, as now known to the rest of the world, developed its own distinct civilization. This deeply spiritual land is home to a unique identity, derived essentially from a fertile religious and cultural heritage. Bhutan brims with myth and legend. As a befitting testimony, a great Buddhist heritage of over 2000 monasteries and 10,000 monuments dot its peaceful open space and regal mountains. An ambience of near sacred tranquility permeates the land, fostering an environment of spiritual affluence that has shaped the foundation of that rarity that we know as Bhutanese life. All Bhutanese are required to wear their national dress, called gho for men, kira for women.
The Bhutanese have deliberately and zealously safeguarded and preserved their rich culture and traditions, its ancient way of life, in all its aspects. And it is perhaps one of the world’s last strongholds of unspoiled wilderness. It is a part of the earth that represents a fabled realm. Bhutan is a land where the past and the contemporary co-exist in harmony, a recipe that makes a journey undeniably amazing. A trip through Bhutan, in many ways, is still a journey into the past. In this small tract of land, one of the most rugged terrains in the world frames one of the world’s richest vegetation. It is a land of about 700,000 people who believe that Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross National Product. Bhutan is a country with a different face. And a different story to tell.
Apart from trekking along the northern frontier, you will be also visiting the main western towns of Thimphu, Paro and Punakha. Western Bhutan is comparatively more developed than the rest of the country. Thimphu, the capital, has all the important government offices, including the King’s Secretariat. Paro has the only airport and Punakha is the ancient capital of Bhutan.
The yeti, locally known as ‘migoi’, is still talked about in the high, Himalayan regions of Bhutan. From a BBC article “It’s widely believed in Bhutan that the yeti walks backwards to fool trackers … Another common belief is that the yeti cannot bend its body, a feature it is thought to share with evil spirits. According to author Kunzang Choden, this explains why most traditional Bhutanese homes have small doorways. In her book, Bhutanese Tales of the Yeti, she describes how the raised threshold and lowered lintel force anyone who enters to lift their leg and bend their head.”
Ethnic Groups of Bhutan
There are numerous ethnic groups in Bhutan, and no one group constitutes a majority of the Bhutanese population. The Bhutanese are of four main ethnic groups, which themselves are not necessarily exclusive: the politically and culturally dominant Ngalop of western and northern Bhutan; the Sharchop of eastern Bhutan; the Lhotshampa concentrated in southern Bhutan; and Bhutanese tribal and aboriginal peoples living in villages scattered throughout Bhutan.
Ngalop
The Ngalop, meaning ‘earliest risen’ or ‘first converted’ according to folklore, are people of Tibetan origin who migrated to Bhutan as early as the 9th century. The Ngalop introduced Tibetan culture and Buddhism to Bhutan and their language, Dzongkha, is the national language, coming from old Tibetan. The Ngalop are dominant in western and northern Bhutan, including Thimphu.
Sharchop
The Sharchop, meaning ‘easterner’, are people of mixed Tibetan, South Asian and Southeast Asian descent residing primarily in eastern Bhutan, the largest ethnic group in Bhutan. Most Sharchop speak Tshangla, a Tibeto-Burman language, and are closely related to the aboriginal Monpa (Menba) although most have been largely assimilated into the Tibetan-Ngalop culture.
Lhotshampa
The Lhotshampa are generally classified as Hindus although this group includes Buddhist Tamang and Gurung, as well as Kiranti (Rai and Limbu) who are traditionally largely animist. The Lhotshampa are generally Nepalese, and their main festivals include Dashain and Tihar. In the past, the Bhutanese government attempted to limit immigration and restrict residence and employment of Nepalese to the southern region, and throughout the 80s and 90s, over 100,000 Lhotshampa fled Bhutan for Nepal in fear of persecution. Many Bhutanese refugees still reside in UNHCR refugee camps in Nepal, though many have been resettled to third countries.
Indigenous + Tribal Groups
Small aboriginal and indigenous tribes live scattered throughout Bhutan, culturally and linguistically part of the populations of West Bengal or Assam, having embraced Hindu agricultural systems. These groups include Brokpa, Lepcha and Doya tribes, as well as the descendants of slaves who were brought to Bhutan from tribal areas in India.
Tibetans
Bhutan also has a sizable Tibetan refugee population, most arriving after 1959 although there are no purely Tibetan communities or villages. There were once three types of Tibetan refugees in Bhutan, most of whom migrated to India to be with the Dalai Lama, while the third group was divided into two sections, those who chose to stay in Bhutan, and those who stayed but chose to leave. Those Tibetans who chose to stay now have Bhutanese residency, while the others do not, and they don’t share exactly the same benefits as other Bhutanese.
Culture of Bhutan
Cradled in the folds of the Himalayas, Bhutan has relied on its geographic isolation to protect itself from outside cultural influences. A sparsely populated country bordered by India to the south, and China to the north, Bhutan has long maintained a policy of strict isolationism, both culturally and economically, with the goal of preserving its cultural heritage and independence. Only in the last decades of the 20th century were foreigners allowed to visit the country, and only then in limited numbers. In this way, Bhutan has successfully preserved many aspects of its culture, which dates directly back to the mid-17th century.
Modern Bhutanese culture derives from ancient culture. This culture affected the early growth of this country. Dzongkha and Sharchop, the principal Bhutanese languages, are closely related to Tibetan, and Bhutanese monks read and write the ancient variant of the Tibetan language, known as chhokey. The Bhutanese are physically similar to the Tibetans, but history does not record when they crossed over the Himalayas and settled in the south-draining valleys of Bhutan. Both Tibetans and Bhutanese revere the tantric guru, Padmasambhava, the founder of Himalayan Buddhism in the 8th century.
Religion in Bhutan
Bhutanese society is centered around the practice of Buddhism, which is the main religion. Religious beliefs are evidenced in all aspects of life. Prayer flags flutter on hillsides, offering up prayers to benefit all nearby sentient beings. Houses each fly a small white flag on the roof indicating the owner has made his offering payments to appease the local god. Each valley or district is dominated by a huge dzong, or high-walled fortress, which serves the religious and administrative center of the district. Approximately 23% of the population is Hindu. There is a small Muslim population in Bhutan, covering 0.2% of the whole country’s population. Overall, 75% of the population is Buddhist, and 0.4% other religions.
Religious Festivals
Once every year, a dzong or important village may hold a religious festival, or Tsechu. Villagers from the surrounding district come for several days of religious observances and socializing while contributing auspicious offerings to the lama or monastery of the festival. The central activity is a fixed set of religious mask dances, or cham, held in a large courtyard. Each individual dance takes up to several hours to complete and the entire set may last two to four days. Observation of the dances directly blesses the audience and also serves to transmit principles of Tantric Buddhism to the villagers. A number of the dances can be traced directly back to Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal himself, the founder of Bhutan, and have been passed down essentially unchanged since the mid-17th century. Prior to dawn on the final day of the tsechu a huge tapestry, or thongdrel, is unfurled in the courtyard of the dzong for several hours. The mere sight of it is believed to bring spiritual liberation. The thongdrel is rolled up before the rays of the morning sun can strike it.
Monks join the monastery at six to nine years of age and are immediately placed under the discipleship of a headmaster. They learn to read chhokey, the language of the ancient sacred texts, as well as Dzongkha and English. Eventually they will choose between two possible paths: to study theology and Buddhist theory, or take the more common path of becoming proficient in the rituals and personal practices of the faith.
The daily life of the monk is austere, particularly if they are stationed at one of the monasteries located high in the mountains. At these monasteries food is often scarce and must be carried up by the monks or their visitors. The monks are poorly clothed for winter conditions and the monasteries are unheated. The hardship of such a posting is well-recognized; to have a son or brother serving in such a monastery is recognized as very good karma for the family. A monk’s spiritual training continues throughout his life. In addition to serving the community in sacramental roles, he may undertake several extended silent retreats. A common length for such a retreat is three years, three months, three weeks and three days. During the retreat time he will periodically meet with his spiritual master who will test him on his development to ensure that the retreat time is not being wasted.
Each monastery is headed by an abbot who is typically a Lama, although the titles are distinct. The highest monk in the land is the chief abbot of Bhutan, whose title is Je Khenpo. He is theoretically equivalent in stature to the king. The Central Monk Body is an assembly of 600 or so monks who attend to the most critical religious duties of the country. In the summer they are housed in Thimphu, the nation’s capital, and in the winter they descend to Punakha dzong, the most sacred dzong in Bhutan, where Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal’s mortal body has been kept under vigil since the late 17th century.
Music of Bhutan
Bhutanese music has traditional genres such as Zhungdra, Boedra, and a modern genre called Rigsar. Bhutanese musicians include: Jigme Drukpa, who is also a leading Bhutanese musicologist.
Official Behavioral Code
The Driglam Namzha is the official behaviour and dress code of Bhutan. It governs how citizens should dress in public and how they should behave in formal settings. It also regulates a number of cultural assets such as art and Bhutanese architecture. In English, driglam means “order, discipline, custom, rules, regimen” and namzha means “system,” though the term may be styled “The Rules for Disciplined Behaviour.”
It is a manner and etiquette as what to wear, how to eat, talk and bow down before the government officials and the clergy. The Driglam Namzha was imposed on all citizens from 1990. The people of different ethnic heritage for example the Lhotsampas (Bhutanese citizens of ethnic Nepali origin – they were not Bhutanese citizens and they were not Lhotsampas) resented this and revolted against this imposition, thereby getting kicked out of Bhutan to the refugee camps. About 20% of Bhutan’s population currently live in exile because of this Bhutanization policies of the Royal Government followed by land expropriation and persecution.
To preserve the indigenous Buddha’s Teachings as their long-guarded culture and tradition, Menjong Chöthün Tshogpa, a charitable organization was established in 2002 by The Supreme Dharma King or Trulku Jigme Chöda Rinpoche 70th Je Khenpo of Bhutan.[2] The chairman at present is Trizin Tsering Rimpoche who also happens to be the founder of Buddha Dordenma Image Foundation, another charitable organization in Bhutan.
National Dress Code
Previously all Bhutanese citizens were required to observe the national dress code, known as Driglam Namzha, while in public during daylight hours. The rule was enforced more rigorously in some districts (dzongkhag) than others. Men wear a heavy knee-length robe tied with a belt, called a gho, folded in such a way to form a pocket in front of the stomach.
Women wear colourful blouses over which they fold and clasp a large rectangular cloth called a kira, thereby creating an ankle-length dress. A short silk jacket, or toego may be worn over the kira. Everyday gho and kira are cotton or wool, according to the season, patterned in simple checks and stripes in earth tones. For special occasions and festivals, colourfully patterned silk kira and, more rarely, gho may be worn.
Additional rules of protocol apply when visiting a dzong or a temple, or when appearing before a high-level official. Male commoners wear a white sash (kabney) from left shoulder to opposite hip. Local and regional elected officials, government ministers, cabinet members, and the King himself each wear their own colored kabney. Women wear a narrow embroidered cloth draped over the left shoulder, a rachu.
The dress code has met with some resistance from Lhotshampa, people of Nepali ancestry, living along the Indian border who resent having to wear a cultural dress which is not their own.
Bhutanization | The Darker Side
Despite living in Bhutan for up to five generations, the Lhotsampas retained their highly distinctive Nepali language, culture, and religion. They participated in public life and politics, even attaining positions of significant leadership. The Lhotsampas coexisted peacefully with other ethnic groups in Bhutan until the mid 1980s, when Bhutan’s king and the ruling Druk majority became worried that the growing Lhotsampa population could threaten the majority position and the traditional Buddhist culture of the Druk Bhutanese.
The government therefore initiated a campaign, known as “One country, one people,” or “Bhutanization” to cement Bhutanese national identity. The policies imposed the Druk dress code, religious practices, and language use on all Bhutanese regardless of prior practices. These changes negatively impacted the Lhotsampa people, because they did not wear the same traditional dress, practice the same religion, or speak the same language as the northern Bhutanese. The use of the Nepali language was prohibited in schools, many Lhotsampa teachers were dismissed, and textbooks were burned.
Men + Women in Society
Men and women work together in the fields, and both may own small shops or businesses. Men take a full part in household management, often cook, and are traditionally the makers and repairers of clothing (but do not weave the fabric). In the towns, a more “western” pattern of family structure is beginning to emerge, with the husband as breadwinner and the wife as home-maker. Both genders may be monks, although in practice the number of female monks is relatively small.
Marriages are at the will of either party and divorce is not uncommon. The marriage ceremony consists of an exchange of white scarves and the sharing of a cup. Marriages can be officially registered when the couple has lived together for more than six months. Traditionally the groom moves to the bride’s family home (matrilocality), but newlyweds may decide to live with either family depending on which household is most in need of labour.
Bhutanese Names
Except for royal lineages, Bhutanese names do not include a family name. Instead two traditional auspicious names are chosen at birth by the local lama or by the parents or grandparents of the child. First names generally give no indication if the person is male or female; in some cases the second name may be helpful in that regard.
As there is a limited constellation of acceptable names to choose from, inevitably many people share the same combination of first and second names. To resolve the ambiguity an informal nicknaming system comes into play which recognizes where a person is from. If a certain “Chong Kinley” is from Chozom village in the Paro valley, she is called “Paro Kinley” when she is travelling outside the valley. In Paro valley itself she is identified by the name of her village, thus “Chong Kinley Chozom”. Surprisingly, multiple children in a small hamlet of a few houses may have exactly the same name, reflecting the inspiration of the local lama. In this case, she is identified by the name of the house she was born in, thus “Chemsarpo” Kinley.
Food of Bhutan
The staple foods of Bhutan are red rice (like brown rice in texture, but with a nutty taste, the only variety of rice that grows in high altitudes), buckwheat, and increasingly maize. The diet in the hills also includes chicken, yak meat, dried beef, pork, pork fat, and lamb. Soups and stews of meat, rice, ferns, lentils, and dried vegetables, spiced with chili peppers and cheese, are a favourite meal during the cold seasons.
Zow shungo is a rice dish mixed with leftover vegetables. Ema datshi, made very spicy with cheese and chili peppers (similar to chili con queso), might be called the national dish for its ubiquity and the pride that Bhutanese have for it. Other foods include: jasha maru (a chicken dish), phaksha paa, thukpa, bathup, and fried rice.
Dairy foods, particularly butter and cheese from yaks and cows, are also popular, and indeed almost all milk is turned into butter and cheese. Popular beverages include: butter tea, black tea, locally brewed ara (rice wine), and beer. Popular spices include: curry, cardamom, ginger, thingay (Sichuan pepper), garlic, turmeric, and caraway.
When offered food, one says meshu meshu, covering one’s mouth with the hands in refusal according to Bhutanese manners, and then gives in on the second or third offer.
Sports of Bhutan
Archery is the national sport in Bhutan, and competitions are held regularly in most villages. It differs from Olympic standards in technical details, such as the placement of the targets and atmosphere. There are two targets placed over 100 m apart and teams shoot from one end of the field to the other. Each member of the team shoots two arrows per round.
Traditional Bhutanese Archery is a social event, and competitions are organized between villages, towns, and amateur teams. There is usually plenty of food and drink complete with singing and dancing. Attempts to distract an opponent include standing around the target and making fun of the shooter’s ability. Darts (kuru) is an equally popular outdoor team sport, in which heavy wooden darts pointed with a 10 cm nail are thrown at a paperback-sized target 10 to 20 m away.
Another traditional sport is digor, which resembles shot put and horseshoe throwing.
Football is the most popular sport in Bhutan. In 2002, Bhutan’s national football team played Montserrat in what was billed as The Other Final; the match took place on the same day Brazil played Germany in the World Cup Final, and at the time Bhutan and Montserrat were the world’s two lowest ranked teams. It was held in Thimphu’s Changlimithang Stadium, and Bhutan won 4–0. Cricket has also gained popularity in Bhutan, particularly since the introduction of television channels from India. The Bhutan national cricket team is one of the most successful affiliate nations in the region.
– Most of this information from Wikipedia
Tucked between the Tibetan Plateau to the north and India to the south, west and east, Bhutan lies entirely within the Eastern Himalayas. It’s just half the size of Indiana. But 51% of its land is protected—the highest percentage of any nation in Asia. Equally striking, the Bhutanese constitution requires at least 60% of the country’s forest cover to be permanently maintained (the country is currently at more than 70%).
Those percentages reflect the value of protected areas—and more broadly, nature—to multiple facets of Bhutanese society. One is spiritual: Bhutan’s culture is rooted in Buddhism, which emphasizes the interdependence between humans and nature … Wildlife delivers revenue as well. The country’s mountains, alpine meadows and thick forests shelter more than 5,600 vascular plant species and 200 mammal species. There are tigers, snow leopards and Asian elephants—as well as bird species like the beautiful nuthatch. Tourism showcasing Bhutan’s biodiversity and nature-inspired culture is one of the fastest-growing sectors of the country’s economy …
Renewable hydropower sold to India currently generates more than 45% of national revenue, and the country must diversify its economy to address its evolving needs. At the same time, Bhutan’s leaders are keeping a close eye on Gross National Happiness—the country’s holistic approach to prosperity that includes social, environmental and political priorities alongside economic ones.” – WWF
“The majority of Bhutanese still live off the land, practicing subsistence agriculture and animal husbandry. Bhutan is the only country in the world whose state religion is Mahayana Buddhism. Its official language, Dzongkha, is spoken in few other places on earth — but all Bhutanese schoolchildren, even in the deepest countryside, are taught English. Bhutan only got television in 1999. There are no plastic bags allowed in Bhutan, and 72 percent of the country is under forest cover. In 2013, the government announced its intention to become the world’s first 100-percent organic-farming nation … Gender equality is a work in progress; fewer than 9 percent of the country’s nationally elected officials are women.” – NY Times
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