The Great Bhutan Himalayan Bicycle Journey

The Great Bhutan Bicycle Journey | West to East Bhutan & Assam, India – Bhutan Himalayan Bike Trip
Day 1 – Arrive Paro 2390m | Transfer Hotel & Assemble Bicycle
Fly to Paro from the departure city of your choice (see Druk Air schedule). Our Bhutan agent will book your flights to and from Paro. The flight into Paro must be one of the most spectacular on the planet. The panorama includes Everest, Kanchenjunga, Shishapangma, Gauri Shankar, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Lhotse, Chamlang, Jannu, Chomoyummo, Pauhunri, Shudu Tsenpa, Jhomolhari and Jichu Drake. It’s an exciting descent into the Paro valley as the captain maneuvers the jet down through the narrow, steep-sided valleys, seeming to barely miss the forested walls on either side. The landings by experienced pilots are always smooth, and clear, blue skies with temperatures in the mid-60s are worth the anxiety of the landing.

You’ll be pickup from Paro Airport by our guide and driver from our Bhutan agency and transferred to our hotel in Paro, the lovely Tenzinling Resort just outside of Paro town. The rooms here are beautiful, large with high roofs and large windows overlooking the houses of the Paro suburbs and the massive Paro Dzong in the distance. The international flights usually arrive by mid-morning, so after your first traditional Bhutanese lunch you’ll have the afternoon to put your bike together or to check and adjust your rented bicycle. Bhutanese dishes are delicious; their national dish is ema dates, whole red or green chilis or potatoes, cooked with butter and cheese and served over rice.

After lunch, if time permits, you have the option to cycle 6km on a flat, paved road into Paro to test out the bicycles, and then have a look through the traditional town of Paro, with lots of shopping opportunities. The shops sell everything from beetle nut to exquisite, hand-woven textiles. In the evening, we may have the chance to watch the locals playing archery Bhutan’s national game and a bit of an obsession in the country. Back at the Tenzinling Resort dinner is almost always at the hotel, showers are hot, and cold Bhutanese beers are always stocked. Welcome to Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon! Tenzinling Resort (L, D)

Day 2 – Paro | Paro Valley Cycling  
A day to acclimatize and recover from your jet lag in Paro, and to get used to the roads in Bhutan (you cycle and drive on the left). Your guide will take you sightseeing in Paro on your bikes, cycling along the beautiful high route to and from Paro, a paved and scenic country road lined with beautiful houses with traditional Bhutanese architecture.

There is lots to explore in Paro, starting with a visit to Rinpung Dzong, or Paro Dzong, which translates as ‘Fortress on a Heap of Jewels’. Paro Dzong was built in 1644 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal on the foundation of one of Guru Rimpoche’s monasteries and was used to defend the Paro valley from invasions by Tibet. Although the dzong survived the 1897 earthquake, it was severely damaged by a fire in 1907. Like most dzongs in Bhutan, it is now the assembly hall as well as housing the monastic body, district government offices, and courts. We might also have time to visit the National Museum. Paro Museum features local art, textiles, artifacts, and sculptures. (B, L, D)

Day 3 – Bike Haa 2780m | Cross Chelai La 3780m  (75.6km)
We start our Bhutan Himalaya winter cycle trip with a challenging and long but incredibly scenic ride to rural Haa to the west of Paro, with the option to drive up the pass and cycle down to Haa. 

Cycling south past the airport and following the Paro Chu (river), we turn right after about 14 km and start to bike up the high Chelai La pass, a beautiful, switch-backing ride through wooded countryside, possibly covered in snow along the higher reaches of the pass. We cycle past clusters of colored or bleached white prayer flags as we ascend slowly up the pass, a relatively challenging ride up endless switchbacks. Our back-up vehicle is with us at all times for anyone needing a break from the climb, and we stop every 10 km or so for water +/or snack breaks..

From the prayer-flag festooned Chelai La, after gazing out at some of Bhutan’s highest snow peaks, we have a wonderful, long downhill ride on a well-paved road, passing small herds of grazing yaks en route. As we near the green valley bottom, the chill in the air warms up and we reach the fence-lined fields and beautiful houses of the Haa valley, our most westerly destination. Turning right at the T junction, we have to cycle up 1 or 2 km to reach our lovely lodge, the rooms heated for arrival, just outside of Haa. The dining room is warmed by a Bukhara stove, and the traditional Bhutanese buffet is one of the best of the bicycle trip. Rigsum Resort. (B, L, D)
Distance 75.6km, Elevation Gain 1755m, Elevation Loss 1420m

CYCLE NOTE | For those not 100% acclimatized or as strong as they would like to be on their bikes, we  recommend driving up the Chelai La pass and then cycling down to Haa!

Day 4 – Bike Chuuzom. Drive Thimphu 2340m  (108km)
We wake to a picturesque, rural Bhutanese valley often covered in snow in the winter months and start the day with a beautiful 15 km ride up the Haa valley, where we’ll have time to stop and watch the occasional archery match between Haa and Paro archers, with singing and dancing Tibetan style when someone hit the target. The road is paved out to the end of the valley where the army has a check-post blocking further explorations. There are great chances for photography in this idyllic setting, with traditional Bhutanese houses providing the foreground for snow-covered peaks and pine forests in back.

Returning along the same country road, we cycle through Haa village, stopping for some local yogurt and photos in this colorful, Bhutanese village of traditional architecture and shops. From town we have a slightly hilly 15 km ride through the beautiful, textured countryside to the hamlet of Jyenkhana, continuing to cycle on a high, undulating road through this wonderful countryside until our long descent at the end of the day. There are wonderful photo opportunities of older Bhutanese dressed in their traditional ‘ghos’ and ‘kiras’, the women with short hair and bangs, and the men with Western hats. The lively villages, all of them painted with fantastic murals of Bhuddist animals, phalluses (representing the Divine Madman Drukpa Kinley) and ornately-decorated windows and sidings, are bordered with fences along the narrow roads, and stray cats and dogs wander throughout.

We’ll picnic at a beautiful spot on a ridge, lined with ‘chador’, or white prayer flags erected as a memorial for someone when they die. The ridges are full of ‘lha khang’, or small Buddhist gompas, whitewashed with gilded spires. Below, the villages clung to the steep hillsides and the terraced fields of barley, millet, buckwheat and winter wheat slanted steeply down to the river. En route, we’ll have time to stop and visit with Bhutanese on the side of the road, often school kids just about to return to their classes. We might have the chance to stop at a lovely Bhutanese-styled tea-house with a warm wood fire burning inside; the weather can turn a bit cold in this part of Bhutan and it’s a good chance to take a break from the wind.

One of the trips most epic downhills is ahead, cruising down through beautiful countryside peppered with traditional villages, descending on an elevated road high above the Paro Chu.

After the long descent to Chhudzom, the intersection of the Paro and Thimphu Chus (rivers), we put the bikes into the truck and drive the 25 km along the Bondey-Haa highway to Thimpu. We arrive in Thimpu late in the afternoon, just in time to check into the hotel, shower and perhaps head out for a quick visit of Thimphu. We’ll have options to check out the new Thimphu market (not nearly as atmospheric as the old market in the field) and do a bit of quick shopping. Tashichho Dzong, the main secretariat building constructed in a traditionally Bhutanese style, is notable for being built without nails or metal. With a bit of extra time, we might visit the large memorial stupa to the late King HM Jigme Dorji Wangchuk, the founder of modern Bhutan, the Handicraft Emporium and the Buddha statue above Thimphu for a birds’ eye view of Thimpu. Hotel Galingha. (B, L, D)
Distance 108 km, Elevation Gain 1379m, Elevation Loss 1760m

Extra Day Thimphu | Bike Dodina Loop ()
In case of extra days on the trip, a great one-day loop around the Thimphu valley, with time to explore Thimphu in the afternoon. Starting with the morning light, we ride past small Bhutanese villages, through farmlands and dense forests, a slight uphill to Dodina, where the end of the road features two monasteries set back high amongst the mountains. The return is a gradual downhill to Thimphu, where we have the rest of the day to visit the national institute for Zorig Chusum (a school of arts and crafts) and explore the capital, well known for its handicrafts shops, art galleries and cafes.

Day 5 – Bike Punakha 1240m | Cross Dochula Pass 3140m  (66.2km)
Starting the morning with 6 km of light city riding to get out of Thimpu, we start switch-backing for another 16 km up to the Dochula, one of Bhutan’s most scenic passes overlooking the high snow peaks bordering Tibet. We bike through small hamlets where locals and Tibetans sell apples, oranges and dried fruits at roadside stalls, past Hongtsho, followed 5 km later by the check-post, and continue ascending through hillsides of oak, maple and blue pine to the Dochula.

The Dochula pass has been transformed with 108 new chortens and millions of prayer flags, beautiful examples of Bhutanese Buddhist architecture, a brilliant foreground of the Bhutan Himalaya in the background. The breathtaking panorama includes Masagang (7158m), Tsendagang (6960m), Terigang (7060m), Jejegangphugang (7158m), Kangphugang (7170m), Zongphugang (7060m) and finally Gangkar Puensum (7570m), the highest peak totally inside Bhutan and widely believed to be the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. The Bhutanese government has prohibited the climbing of peaks to respect local customs and the homes of protective spirits.

The chortens were built in 2005 as a memorial for the Bhutanese who lost their lives in the Assam conflict. There are sometimes large pujas on the adjoining hilltop, with incense burning, drums and cymbals and many people circling the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens, commissioned by the Queen Mother, and adding fresh whitewash to the massive, square-based one in the center of the complex. The Druk Wangyal Lhakang (temple) was built in honor of HM Jigme Singye Wangchuk; the past and future merge in the details of the lhakhang and its structure tells the story of a supreme warrior figure whose vision pierces the future, blending history and mythology.

If the weather is clear, we’ll stop just below the pass to look out over this magnificent scene before continuing down the breathtaking 42 kilometer descent to the Punakha valley. The forest heading down the endless switchbacks is filled with budding rhododendron, alder, cypress, hemlock and fir. The bucolic valley open up, green with crops and fruit groves and dotted with white or colorful wooden Bhutanese houses with slate rooftops. As we descend, our cold and wind gear will be quickly shed and we reach a more tropical region of Bhutan as we cycled through bamboo forests, the small road lined with prickly cactus. We pass through a small village where you can buy grilled corn on the cob by the roadside, and eventually reach the valley bottom at Metshina. We will stop for lunch at one of the nicest restaurants of the trip, overlooking this magical valley, with a Chimi Lhakang and a Guru Rimpoche temple ahead.

Punakha sits at the intersection of the Mo Chu and the Pho Chu, the mother and father rivers. After lunch, we’ll cycle an easy 3-4 km loop to visit Chimi Lhakang, home of Drukpa Thinley, and the Guru Rimpoche temple. The last 5 or 6 kilometers to Punakha are wonderful, cruising along a paved road with undulating hills, with a final, grueling 100 meter climb to the hotel (depending on our hotel).

We check into the lovely Hotel Vara in the new part of Punakha, called Kuruthang (the lower hotel option), with perfect views over the scenic rice paddies of Punakha, and have the option to head out towards Punakha Dzong, enjoying the rest of the balmy, tropical day on our bikes. Hotel Vara. (B, L, D)
Distance 66.2km, Elevation Gain 1160m, Elevation Loss 2,161m

Day 6 – Punakha | Cycle Punakha Dzong + Punakha Valley  (33.3km)
An idyllic and relaxing cycling day, first cycling about 15 km up the valley along the Mo Chu where we’ll get to watch the black great cormorants sunning themselves on rounded river rocks and vivid blue kingfishers darting about above the clear river. We might opt for a short uphill ride through more beautiful countryside dotted with villages before descending to the river, which we cross on a long suspension bridge. Next, after a round-about route to the palace, a wonderful tour of the resplendent Punakha Dzong! Punakha Dzong is perhaps the most impressive of Bhutan’s dzongs, the second one built and the seat of the government until the 1950s. The morning light from just beyond the dzong is perfect, illuminating the gilded rooftops.

After a 1 – 2 hour tour of Punakha Dzong, we’ll cycle a few km up the Punakha River (also known as the Puna-tshang Chu) for a picnic lunch along the riverbanks, afterwards continuing about 10 km up this scenic, relatively flat valley, following the river on a country road past local villages, always busy with school children and locals, perhaps some threshing, endlessly fascinating and always photogenic. We can return on our bikes or in the van, with the grinding uphill ahead if we stay at the higher hotel. (B, L, D)
Distance 33.3km, Elevation Gain 453m, Elevation Loss 448m

Tashithang Trip ()
Crossing the Pho Chu, we continue to cycle along the small, sandy road to the suspension bridge about 10 or 15 km past the turnoff. Right after crossing my first bridge we can cycle uphill along a rutted trail for a bit to take a look at the small village just above, soon afterward backtracking back down to the ‘main’ road. It’s a nice ride back with a cool afternoon breeze, finally crossing the road from the new part of Punakha, called Kuruthang, right to our hotel. 

Day 7 – Bike Phobjikha 2920m  | Cross Lawa La 3330m  (69.2km)
We have a lovely, flat morning cycling along the Punatsang Chu, flat, calm, and reflecting the Bhutanese architecture on this windless morning. Cycling back 2 km towards the dzong, we take the same bridge back over the Punatsang Chu and turn right, continuing past Wangdi Dzong after about 7 km, an iconic dzong which tragically burned down in Sept 2011. Cycling downhill, the day grows hotter as we descend, the landscape becoming more tropical. At the hamlet of Tigizampa, about 25 km past Punakha after crossing a small concrete bridge, there is a lovely small shop where locals often rake their drying rice, a good spot for a break. Continuing the gradual ascent up the hillside, we continue the extremely scenic ride as we head for the Lawa La. We’ll stop for a late lunch at atmospheric Nobding, about 17 km below the Lawa La pass, and possibly continue the rest of the uphill in the jeep from here as it’s a long day, and the pitch steepens as we near the pass, from where we have views of Jhomolhari. 

Enjoy the long descent from the Lawa La, where locals sell colorful woven textiles, down to Gangtey Lhakang, where we will stop for a quick visit before continuing downhill to Pobjikha. There is an especially beautiful traditional Bhutanese house divided in two, with a porch in front connecting the two, just before Dewachen Hotel. On our exploratory trip an extended family and Lama were enjoying the afternoon sun on the deck, I stopped to take a photo of the beautiful house and setting and they invited us into the house. The Lama was having a puja for a young girl who had some disabilities. We spent some time outside with the family and then went inside to the common room around the fire for an hour afterward. The Lama had the seat of honor in front of the fire with his back propped up against the far wall. A very young Rimpoche, perhaps two years old, dressed in gold and yellow, was the son of one of the families and ran around the large room chasing a yellow ball.

We stay for the next two nights at the fantastic Dewachen Hotel, featuring large rooms with their own stoves and big windows, traditionally decorated in a rustic style, and the dining room was lively with an enormous Bukhara stove to sit around. Enjoy a few beers around the wood-burning stove in the dining room, and chat with other tourists who have come to see the black-necked cranes. Dewachen Hotel (B, L, D)
Distance 69.2km, Elevation Gain 2289m, Elevation Loss 585m

Extra Day Phobjikha Valley – Local Cycle Trip & Black Neck Cranes ()
We have an optional day to cycle and hike around the beautiful Pobjikha valley, starting the morning with a ride to Gangtey Gompa, the first Nyimgmapa temple in Bhutan started in 1613 by the grandson and reincarnation of Pema Lingpa, and finished by his reincarnation. The gompa is spectacularly set, overlooking the glacial Pobjikha Valley with its endangered black-necked cranes who spend the winter in this valley feasting on the dwarf rhododendron which grows in the swampy glacial soil. The cranes are said to circle the gompa three times before setting off on their hazardous journey to Tibet for the summer, and in fact, they actually do, probably catching the thermals up to start them off on their long migration.

We have an option to hike along a sign posted ‘Nature Trail’, circling the cranes on the other side of the valley, and getting good photos of them taking off and landing nearby. We’ll have lunch at a local restaurant before returning to the hotel.

Next up, a bumpy ride to a few villages about 5+ kilometers down the valley; you can continue quite a ways down this small road. Just before reaching the hotel there is a general store (cum bar) where fairly inebriated locals hang out, and lots of people speak Nepali. (B, L, D)

Day 8 – Bike Trongsa 2180m | Cross Lawa La 3330m + Pele La 3410m  (74.4km)
We leave the hotel and cycle back up to Gangey Lhakhang, along the unpaved road, and then continut 3 km uphill. The small country road passes several small shops and houses, and then climbs past the Amankora Resort, afterward winding through open forests of pine and fir. We continue ascending a further 7 km towards the Lawa La, where yaks graze by the whitewashed, square chorten. After a stop at the Lawa La chorten, we descend for 1 ½ km and then climb 3 km to the next pass, the Pele La, which is about 100 meters higher than the Lawa La.

We look forward to a great cruise down from the pass on a good road overlooking the bucolic valley, but often cold. After about 30 km of cycling past rustic villages, we finally reach Chendebji Chorten, surrounded by white prayer flags on long poles, a Nepali-style chorten, whitewashed with a rounded dome and Buddha eyes.

We’ll have lunch nearby, afterward continuing on a lovely, nearly flat road for about another 10 kilometers. The temperature is usually perfect at just under 2500 meters, and the road winds its way through idyllic Bhutanese countryside. We pass a small gompa with a large contingent of maroon-clad monks near Tashi Choboling Gompa, which is said to be the center of the country.

A further 20 kilometers or so of cruising downhill on this rural road, now becoming more wooded, brings us to a viewpoint of Trongsa Dzong, the oldest in the country, the original temple built in the 15th century and overlooking the Mangde River. Just past the dzong we have a seriously fast and windy downhill, lots of fun, to the bridge from where it is a 5-kilometer ride uphill to Trongsa. Trongsa is a true fortress-style dzong, wonderfully atmospheric, where monks wander in and out feeding the pigeons and going about their daily routines, watched over by the ‘disciplinary monk’, a throwback to olden days. Yangkhil Resort. (B, L, D)
Distance 74.4km, Elevation Gain, 909m Elevation Loss 1831m

Day 9 – Bike Chhume (Bumthang Valley) 2935m | Cross Yotung La 3425m  (44km)
From our hotel, it’s 1 ½ km of flat road into town, from where we start the day with a 28-kilometer climb up to the top of the Yotung La, afterward descending for 11 kilometers to scenic Chhume valley below. As we drop we pass through lovely pine and fir forests lined with dwarf rhododendrons and then a fenced country road with lots of options for afternoon explorations. Chhume is a lovely valley, and the lodge one of the nicest in Bhutan, so worth spending the rest of the day here. After lunch, whoever wants can cycle together or on their own around the small country lanes, stopping for a chat at the many general stores where the Bhutanese tend to congregate. We’ll spend Christmas at the charming Chhume Nature Resort. (B, L, D)
Distance 44 km Elevation Gain 1364m Elevation Loss 546m

Day 10 – Bike Jakar (Bumthang) 2585m | Cross Kiki La 2900m | Explore Bumthang Valley by Bike (Kurjey, Tamshing Temple, Swiss Farm)  (25.2km)
Waking to a misty Bhumtang landscape, the wide valley opens up before us and brightens with the first morning’s rays. We’ll cycle through the idyllic country lanes fenced in pine (which is actually some the major east-west highway in Bhutan), stopping to look at textiles and some of Bhutan’s exquisite silk scarves en route. We have an easy 3-4 km climb to the Kiki La, adorned with colorful prayer flags on long, erect poles and then a long, winding descent down to the second valley in Bumthang, finally along the Jakar Rong Chu. Jakar has had two fires in the past year, so is presently under reconstruction, but there are still enough shops open to get the feel of it. We’ll have lunch at the hotel, and after lunch we’re back on our bikes for some sightseeing in the Bumthang valley, a wonderfully historic and beautiful valley.

We’ll also visit the ancient and atmospheric Jambey Lhakhang, built in 659 by King Songsten Gampo on the same day as Kyichu Gompa in Paro in order to pin down the body of a Tibetan demoness. Here we’ll notice older Bhutanese doing ‘koras’ and counting their prayer beads, praying for a good rebirth. At Jambey Lhakhang there is a winter festival (naked dance festival) where the lamas wear only masks and dance naked around the fire, after midnight.

Just up the valley is the incredibly beautiful Kurjey Lhakhang, the oldest temple of which was built in 1652. The next temple was built in 1900 by Sanpa Lhundrup, the first king of Bhutan, and the last in 1984 by the queen mother, Ashi Kesang Wangchuck. The last temple was built over a cave with the body print of Guru Rimpoche, so a sacred spot. Finally, we’ll returned to town, cross the bridge and cycle about 7 kilometers up the eastern valley to visit Tampshing Lhakhang, built in 1501 by Pema Lingpa. Enough for one day!

Up another valley is the Tampshing Lhakhang, situated along a lovely country road, and the Red Panda brewery. Nearby you can buy delicious Guda or Ementhaler cheese at the local dairy shop, and have a tour of the cheese factory if you’d like. A Swiss man was the force behind both the beer and the cheese. Local apple juice and apple brandy are also available, the juice being just like the apple juice in Manang, Nepal. Another option is to visit the majestic Jakar Dzong, built in 1549. Back in the center of town are many shops, some owned by Tibetans, families whose refugee descendants fled Tibet in 1959, good shopping for crafts and snacks. Wangdi Choling or River Lodge (B, L, D)
Distance 25.2km, Elevation Gain 220m, Elevation Loss 587m

Day 11 – Jakar (Bumthang) | Day Bike Tang Valley & Ugyen Choling Palace (35km + 35km
Another beautiful day of exploring the idyllic valleys surrounding Bumthang by bike, cycling 10 km along the Mongar highway and then heading up the Tang valley on a paved road. We climb gently past the burning lakes of Mebatstho, cycle through colorful villages and then drop down to the village at Tang.  Crossing the river on a bridge, it’s a short ride up to the Ugyen Choling Palace, now converted into a museum. After exploring the town and palace, we can have lunch in town, or we might opt to bring a packed lunch with us. Wangdi Choling or River Lodge (B, L, D)(B, L, D)

Day 12 – Bike Sengor 3500m | Cross Shertung La 3590m & Thrumshing La 3735m  (105km)
We’ve added an extra day to this year’s itinerary; our adjusted route will spend the night staying at a local farmhouse in Sengor, a wonderful chance to experience local Bhutanese culture and enjoy some (spicy) Bhutanese home-cooked meals.

Leaving beautiful Jakar valley, we cycle back over the bridge in town, turn right, and bike along a perfect road following the Chamkhar Chu for the first 10 kilometers. The road eventually starts to climb gradually past fenced farmhouses, potato fields, cows, and local Bhutanese doing their household errands. Higher up above the valley, about 20 kilometers into the ride, we cycle past several groups of white prayer flags, with snow peaks opening up around us, absolutely spectacular. After cycling about 26 kilometers we reach the lovely and scenic village of Tangsibi, at about 3000 meters. We bike past rhododendron as we ascend to the triple pass of Shertung La, 47 km from Jakar (about 21 km of climbing past Tangsibi), each false pass marked with white prayer flags. We’ve earned the long, wooded descent to the scenic village of Ura, with its gompa backing the closely packed houses. We will stop for lunch in Ura, perhaps just outside a local Nepali-run shop in the sun.

After lunch, it’s a grind to get up to the pass, cycling up along another dramatic and traffic-free narrow road as we wind our way up, and up, to the Thrumshing La, the highest pass on the main highway of Bhutan. We’ve earned the fantastic descent through the Thrumshing National Park along a cliff-side road through alpine rain forest, slightly nerve-racking if you don’t like exposure, but very exhilarating otherwise. Part way down the descent we’ll pass at the small hamlet of Sengor, our destination for the night. Beers definitely on the menu! Sengor Farmhouse (B, L, D)
Distance 105 km, Elevation Gain 2073m, Elevation Loss 1618m

Day 13 – Bike Mongar 1600m |   (86.5km)
We continue the long descent through the lush, rainforest-like terrain, alive with exotic birds and bird songs, passing waterfalls, small villages, local livestock, monkeys, an exhilearating downhill ride and always with fabulous vistas. On our last trip, in the dark (we combined the last two days, and drove the last 50 or so km), we saw many small Night-Jar Owls flying up out of the road in front of our car lights.

It’s a wonderful day of cycling through eastern Bhutan; and to be able to enjoy this subtropical paradise, we’ve scheduled a shorter day to relax in the lovely Trogon Villa, tucked away in the small hamlet of Sershingtang and colored with ruby red poinsettias and feeling wonderfully tropical after the chill of central Bhutan. Trogon Villa. We’ll enjoy the tropical greens and bird life of Trogan Villa. Options include driving 15-20 km back up the winding hillside to enjoy the cruise back through the tropical plants of this lush region, bird calls filling the space around us. You might prefer to cycling up 10 or 12 km up this lovely road, listening for the rare red Ward’s Trogon and Tragopon, the males of the latter having an incredible blue mating dance. We might also see Black Eagles, capped languor, and we’re in red panda territory although they’re very shy, and unlikely to show themselves. We’ll share the road with mithuns, called bjacha in Bhutan, cow-like bovines descended from the wild gaur. (B, L, D)
Beasts of the Northern Mountains
Distance 40 km, Elevation Gain 153m, Elevation Loss 1656m

Day 14 – Bike Trogon Villa (Sershingtang) 4160m 
Loading our bags and leaving Trogon Villa, we descend on a perfectly paved country road through beautiful villages where kids practice archery, crops are drying on the sides of the road, and banana and papaya trees signify a more tropical climate. The temperature rises as we drop below 2000 meters, and the descent is epic as we contour high above terraced fields, central Bhutanese houses and fluttering groups of prayer flags far below us. The scenery is similar to the Arun Salpa valley in Nepal, with the river far below, fruit trees and terraced fields, simpler houses and animals adorning the landscape. En route, women sell dried, salted banana chips, tangerines, bananas and pomelos, Indian-style dhabas line the roadside and many villagers speak perfect Nepali. Finally, we reach to Kuri Zampa, 3200 meters below the Thrumshing La, where we cross the bridge and have a last 25 km switch-backing ascent to reach Mongar. We stay at Hotel Wangchuk in Mongar, the nicest in town just above the old town, and will be ready for a shower, dinner and a well-deserved beer. Hotel Wangchuk. (B, L, D)
Distance 46.5km, Elevation Gain 1134m, Elevation Loss 1032m

Day 15 – Bike Trashigang 1100m |  Cross Kori La 2380m  (86.2km)
A long day today, cycling all the way to Trashigang, over 70 kilometers from Mongar, nearly as far east as you can go in Bhutan. We will probably start the morning in short-sleeve shirts, which will be appreciated on the 18-kilometer ride up the Kori La. The ascent isn’t too steep but continuous, an 800-meter climb from Mongar. The countryside is still bathed in the morning mist, the colors of the terraced fields muted. We’ll stop for a break at a bright crimson wild cherry tree, usually covered in chatty warblers feeling upside-down on the flowers, and perhaps watch a kestrel chasing an eagle over a valley covered in white flowering daphne and red rhododendrons. From the pass we’ll have a fantastic 21-kilometer downhill through pine forests to the quaint village of Yadhi (1480m). We’ll stop for tea at a traditionally styled teahouse, with a sunny courtyard and dried chilis and tiny tomatoes, a chance to see more of rural Bhutan. Beyond Yadhi we continue our descent, the many tight switchbacks called the ‘Yadhi Loops’, finally reaching the riverside 350 meters and 10 kilometers later. We drop down to 650 meters and it will for sure be hot and humid.

Crossing a bridge over the Shere Chhu in the heat of the day, we have a scorching 200-meter ascent on an incredible cliff-side road over the river which seems to continue endlessly, again reminiscent of the Arun Salpa valley. About an hour later we drop back down to Rolong, a wonderful spot where they serve a local-style lunch outside under a thatched roof, with the river breeze barely cooling, very reminiscent of Nepal or India. Otherwise we have lunch at the chorten overlooking the river 30 km before Trashigang. We continue after lunch on an undulating road, mostly high above the river, cycling about 20 km to the bridge at Chazam, at just over 700 meters, from where we look straight up the ridge to Trashigang Dzong, meaning the Fortress of the Auspicious Hill. Last, a last, grueling 6-7 kilometer (400-meter) climb (it’s 10 km all the way into Trashigang), often riding against a headwind, to reach the turnoff to our hotel (which is above the town). The last 1 km to the hotel is unpaved, very steep, and it’s better after a long, tiring day to stick the bikes into the truck or van.

Finally, we arrive at Trashigang, an interesting village with a prominent dzong, old-style shops and a medieval atmosphere, perched precariously along the steep hillside, crunched together around a small square with a prayer wheel in the center. We’ll stay at one of Trashigang’s newest hotels, Druk Deothjung Hotel, set high on a rocky road above the Trashgang road (although I have fond memories of sitting outside in town, under leafy trees, having our sundowners in the original hotel run by the same owners). Druk Deothjung Hotel. (B, L, D)
Distance 86.2km, Elevation Gain 1658m, Elevation Loss 2096m

Day 16 – Trashigang | Day Bike Rangjung  (38.7km)
A leisurely biking day to visit Trashgang Dzong and afterward idyllic Rangjung village and Rangjung Oesel Choeling Monastery, a return journey of 30 km along wonderful country roads. Leaving the hotel, we negotiate the steep lane back down to the Trashigang road, and cycle the 3 relatively flat km to town. We’ll spend an hour visiting Trashigang Dzong (opens at 9 AM), an extremely atmospheric dzong still used at the administrative center of the region, built in 1659 to defend against Tibetan invasions. Don’t miss the colorful, descriptive murals just outside the oldest prayer hall. These wonderful murals, often whimsical, tell the story of Bhutan’s interesting history involving Tibetan invasions, a mix of secular, royal and religious, and sometimes even magical. Note the felted wool rain hats of the Sharchop ethnic group, who reside in eastern Bhutan.

Leaving Trashigang, we descend on the steep, cliffside road from the end of town for nearly 4 km, cruising steeply down the hillside and turning right at the small T intersection. For the next 11 or 12 km we have a lovely countryside ride, mostly flat, following the river, through typical eastern Bhutanese countryside. The houses are shaded by banana and papaya trees, and cows roam the roads as we cycle by the many prayer flags, white-washed chortens and rock outcroppings of this beautiful valley.

A last short climb just past a set of white-washed chortens and white lung-ta flags and we Rangjung, translated as ‘self-emanating’ has very photogenic local markets, home of the resplendent Rangjung Oesel Choeling Monastery where we watched a colorful Buddhist cham (lama dance) festival on another cycling trip. The monastery is on top of the hill, surrounded by colorful prayer flags on vertical poles. After some shopping and poking around the market, we’ll cycle 3 or 4 km for a scenic lunch amongst a cluster of white prayer flag poles, returning to our T junction on the same road we cycled in on. The last nearly 4 km back up to Trashigang are steep but doable; with the dzong a tremendous site as we reach Trashgang. The Lepcha Cafe is run by Lepchas, a cast of Nepalis from Sikkim, worth a stop in town. Last, an easy 3 km cruise downhill to the turnoff to our hotel, from where we can bike or drive up to the hotel. Sunsets from our high vantage point at the hotel are incredible, as is the view the other direction back towards the dzong. Druk Deothjung Hotel. (B, L, D)
Distance 38.7km, Elevation Gain 901m, Elevation Loss 900m

Day 17 – Drive Yonphula Airport. Fly Paro 
A short drive to the Yonphula Airport for your short flight back to Paro. Your bikes will go overland in the support vehicle, and you can box them up back in Paro after your Taktsang Monastery hike tomorrow. Depending on the flight time, you’ll have some extra time to explore Paro. Tenzinling Resort. (B, L, D)

Day 18 – Paro | Hike Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest) 3100m 
You’ll start the morning with a drive to the bottom of Taktsang Monastery (Tsha-tham), followed by a great hike through beautiful pine forests to Bhutan’s most iconic landmark, Tiger’s Nest, clinging to a huge granite cliff above Paro valley. It is believed that Padmasambhava (Guru Rimpoche) came to Bhutan in the 7th century on a flying tigress and meditated in a cave for three months. The demons were subdued who were trying to stop the spread of Buddhism and converted the Paro valley into Buddhism. During the end of the 17th century a monastery was built on the spot where the saint meditated and it is a pilgrimage site for every Bhutanese to visit at least once in their life time.

The hike to Taktsang Monastery, including time at the monastery and lunch, takes approximately 4-5 hours. On our first full day at altitude, it’s important to hike slowly and stay well hydrated. Once back at the van, you’ll drive the 10km back to the Tenzinling Resort, where you’ll meet your bikes in the afternoon. The staff will help you to box them back up for your international flight out of Bhutan tomorrow. Tenzinling Resort (B, L, D)

Day 19 – Sunday, 12 March 2024 – Trip Ends | Transfer Paro Airport
Our epic Great Bhutan Cycling Journey ends, and bikes packed, your guide will drop you at the Paro International Airport for your flight home … (B)

Kadenche La!

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The India (Assam) Route

Bike Wamrong 1300m 
We’re considering breaking our long day downhill (part would have to be by jeep) into two downhill days as we cycle towards the border of India. We head for Womrong, a village just off the main route to Samdrup Jonkar. There is a basic guest house here with plenty of rooms, so we might decide to do the entire ride to the Assam border and skip our extra day in Trashigang.

Bike Samdrup Jonkar  (182.6 km Bike + Drive)
Our last day of cycling, as diverse as they come in the Himalaya as we end up all the way down at Samdrup Jonkar, on the steamy border of India!

Cycling out of Trashigang early morning, we take the left fork towards the highway leading to Assam and the south of Bhutan. It’s a perfect, winding road contouring its way up towards the first of a series of passes and ridges, past the county’s only big college in the east, Sherubtse, at Kanglung. A few kilometers past the college is Yongphula, a pass at 2190 meters on the map, but seems to be just a village. From Yongphula the road continues to switchback higher and higher, passing a row of seven new white chortens near the ‘Yongphula 0’ sign. It’s a beautiful road with expansive views and many hills, which gets hot mid-day. Further along the road is an incredibly exposed section, the longest stretch of narrow, exposed, cliff-hugging road in the country, some of it with guard rails, fortunately.

The last 100 kilometers or so, past Wamrong (a potential stop for the night), the road twists and turns, only occasionally having any sort of barrier to prevent cars and trucks from hurdling down the steep ravine thousands of meters below. The surrounding countryside is a magical mash of steep hills covered in thick jungle, with hamlets and lone houses perched precariously on small cultivated bits of land. We cycle into the border town of Samdrup Jonkar in the early evening, a typical border town, a mix of Indian and Bhutanese and a jumble of characterless hotels and dirty streets. We’ll stay in a more basic hotel (although the nicest available), and will finish off the trip with cold beers and our last meal of ema datsi, reminiscing about our epic bicycle journey across Bhutan! (B, L, D)
Distance 182.6 km, Elevation Gain 3510m, Elevation Loss 4551m

Drive Border (India) & Transfer Guwahati Airport – Trip Ends (98 km (Drive))
We’ll be up early for breakfast and to meet our drivers to the airport at Guwahati, India, just across the Bhutan-Indian border. After 4 kilometers of ‘no man’s land’ we’ll reach the border of Bhutan and India, a rural cement shack, fortunately without a computer or knowledge of the new rule about not entering India twice in two months.

Breathing a sigh of relief that you won’t have to live out the rest of your life in this four square kilometer section, we’ll continue along the main road, a typically Indian road that we share with rickshaws, ox carts, bicycles overloaded with families, cows, and barefoot villagers. We drive past rice paddies and thatched huts, a completely different world than the idyllic one which we just left behind in Bhutan. The sounds, smells and energy of predominantly Hindu India are something truly unique, that either attract or repel. The border post into India is a wooden shack with a huge ledger. Goodbye Bhutan!

From Guwahati, a three-hour drive from the border, there are easy flights to Calcutta or elsewhere in India, with further connections to Kathmandu or anywhere else in the world. Book your flights early, and plan to leave in the afternoon. Kadenche La! (B)
Distance: 98 km (Drive), Elevation Gain 243m, Elevation Loss 343m

TRAVEL NOTE | You will need an Indian Visa to enter India from Samdrup Jonkar. Book your flights out of Guwahati starting mid-afternoon the same day …

2025 Dates
25 Feb  2 – 19 March
18 Days

Trip Price
$6480
4+ Cyclists

$6680
3 Cyclists

$7180
2 Cyclists

$7480
1 Cyclist 

+ Single Supplement – $650
+ Yonphula Paro Flight – $230 (When Necessary)
+ Bike Mechanic – $200 (Per Person)
+ Bike Rental – $650
+ Palace, Monastery & Sightseeing Entry Fees – Not Included

Includes

• Bhutanese Guides
• Back-Up Vehicle
• Cycle Mechanic (Optional) + Tool Kit
• Accommodation + Meals in Bhutan
• Transport to Sites
• Group Transportation
• Airport Transfers
• International Flight Booking Services
• Bhutan Visa + Tourism Royalties

Safety & Health Precautions

• Thuraya Satellite Phone (when allowed)
• Garmin InReach Satellite Messaging System (when allowed)
• Updated Route published on Garmin Site (when allowed)
• Helicopter Evacuation Services (when allowed)
• Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
• Katadyn Filtered Water
• Safe, Sanitary, Delicious + Plentiful Food + Drinks

Excludes

• Domestic + International Fights
• Bicycle Rental
• Sightseeing + Entry Fees
• Travel + Travel Health Insurance
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol + Bottled Drinks
• Tips

Bhutan Flight Prices (Approx)
Kathmandu-Paro-Kathmandu – $475
Bangkok-Paro-Bangkok – $810
Delhi-Paro-Delhi – $775

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $300 for drinks, shopping and tips. We recommend $250-$300 per cyclist thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

Trip Advisor Reviews

Client Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments

Cycle Trip Highlights

• Great Bhutan Cycling on Relatively Traffic-free Roads
• Phobjikha Valley + the Black Necked Cranes
• Bhutan’s Buddhist Drukpa Monasteries
• The Idyllic Bumthang Valley
• Trashigang, Thimpu, Paro + Mongar Dzongs
• Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) Monastery Hike (Paro)
• Drukgyal Dzong Day Bike (Paro)
• Paro + Thimpu MarketsRemote Haa Valley
• Traditional Bhutanese Villages 
• Spectacular Mountain Vistas + Himalayan Passes
• Bhutan’s Incredible Cuisine (Chilis)!
• THE Best of Bhutan – on a Bike!

Clients’ Highlights & Comments
A wonderful bicycle tour of Ladakh & Zanskar, the Indian Himalaya!
Cycle-eat-relax-repeat. I had met Kim Bannister & Lhakpa Dorji previously, but this was my first trip with them as formal leaders. Kim & Lhakpa have all of the logistics for fun and relaxing Ladakh travel completely dialed in. The itinerary was challenging but not overly so, with the flexibility to ride in the support vehicle completely open at any time. Very importantly, our two drivers were 100% calm and safe. Cycling ranged from 4 – 8 hours a day. The team uses cell phones and radios for communications to coordinate camps and timing. Each cyclist also has a personal radio for potential emergency use, but in reality, even though we had some tough days, there were zero emergencies. Camp is set up and struck efficiently by the crew. Snacks and hot and cold drinks await on arrival in the afternoon, with large, comfy personal tents set up in nice locations and your personal gear stashed inside. It has been said an army marches on its stomach, and for any trip of this sort, the food is of paramount importance. Junar and the rest of the crew never failed to impress with tasty, copious and varied food choices, including melons, momos, salads, and a birthday cake!
– David K (USA), Ladakh Sky Kingdoms Ladakh Cycling Journey 2019

Excellent! Most challenging but very good, and everything was well organized, so no complains. I would recommend this trip to anyone who is interested in a bit of cycling adventure!
– Herb B (Australia), The Great Nepal Bicycle Journey 2022

From Lhasa to Kathmandu – Cycling across the Tibetan Plateau!
I can only highly (once more, highly) recommend Kamzang Journeys. Absolutely top notch experience, when it comes to exploring the remote Himalayas, by either hiking or biking. This time, we have cycled across the Tibetan Plateau for about 1000 kms. Stunning. Magnificent. Mesmerizing. Adventurous. And safe. Superb logistics, organization and team (really!). Deep insights into the Tibetan culture from a beautiful soul who has been living the Himalayan spirit for nearly 20 years. Kamzang Journeys will make your experience an unforgettable memory. Kim & Lhakpa are knowledgeable (this is an understatement), are passionate about the region, its people and their culture & traditions. Food is truly beyond expectations, camp sites always stunning & relaxing, and Kim & her Team will go the extra mile to secure your safety. Full disclosure: over the past 11 years or so, I have repeatedly returned to Kamzang Journeys for the joy of experiencing the Himalayan region, with authenticity & simplicity, as most of their customers do. (and this is a testimony of the quality & the love of their ‘services’). Kamzang Journeys: you rock!
– Laurence V (France), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

Lhasa to Kathmandu Bicycle Trip. A difficult trip to organize went wonderfully with Kamzang Journeys. Fantastic food. Great people. Don’t know how it could have been better!
– Grant E (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

The experience I had when I cycled with Kamzang Journeys was incredible. The team, as well as the guides, were fantastic and extremely helpful. Kim made you feel very safe and comfortable and had great knowledge, and the sights, characters and the culture were a dream. Definitely worth it and I will definitely go again.
– Nita B (New Zealand), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip!
When I first searched online for a Nepal trekking guide in 2006, I found Kim Bannister. I was most impressed by the fact that the person leading my trek was the one answering my emails and that she evidenced a commitment to an environmental ethic and to treating her staff (and, when relevant, the pack animals) with respect and fairness. Not one other company mentioned any kind of valued ethic, let alone provided a personal response. Back then I was inquiring about a trek to the Everest Region, a bucket list dream of mine. Though I have since made that journey with Kim, I did not go in 2006, because Kim provided the honest insight that summer was not a good time to go to the that region due to the monsoon and suggested Ladakh instead.

Though I was sure Everest was the only place I wanted to go, I jumped at the alternative adventure, already trusting Kim’s expertise and knowing that I was to be led by a capable, reasoned guide. I have since trekked with Kim to Dolpo, Everest High Passes, and just returned from the cycling trek with Kim from Lhasa to Kathmandu. In 2007 Kim also set up a Tibet jeep trip for me and has connected me to contacts in India. I trust Kim implicitly. Every place one might travel in the entire Himalayan region — Nepal, India, China, Bhutan — is, by its nature, wildly unpredictable, from the weather, to closed borders, cancelled flights, lost luggage, runaway animals, altitude sickness, and beyond. Kim manages such fluidness with impressive agility, resource, and calm. We have shared quite a few wonderful stories, laughs, amazing food, and our share of beer over these adventures. As myself an experienced outdoor educator and leader, risk management consultant, and now attorney, my 2006 bet with Kim has paid off exquisitely. Stop looking now — you have found the best.
– Anne M (USA), The Great Tibet Bicycle Trip June 2018

Once again I carefully chose Kamzang for my exotic, indulgent trip to Bhutan. All praise to Kim and Lhakpa for making sure this was the best possible trip for our money, a trek in a very expensive/ exclusive part of the Himalayas. It was tough, it was amazing and it was the best thing I have ever done. Kim and Lhakpa spun their special magic to make this trek amazing. The Bhutanese guide Tse Tse made sure we had a good run down of what to expect each day. Our tough trek, mud, rain, snow was everything we expected, however our time in camp, our food and our morale was always boosted by Kim and Lhakpa on even the toughest of days – and this is what we all signed up for – you cannot do the Snowman Trek and think it will be easy.

I am so glad I did this trek with Kamzang Journeys. I would do the toughest trek with Kamzang anywhere in the world. You will always get safety, dedication and genuine concern from these guys, they will ultimately help you reach your potential, and you will become friends for life. They will help you go forward with your trekking goals. Thanks guys. I will book again can’t wait.
– Shannon F (Australia), Bhutan Lunana Snowman Trek 2016

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Travel Reading
Travel Books

Articles & Video on Bhutan
The Tiger’s Nest | NY Times

How & Why Bhutan Came to Worship the Phallus | Culture Trip

Soaking in a Unique Bath Culture |  BBC Travel

Why Don’t People See the Yeti Anymore? | BBC

Bhutan, a Higher State of Being | New York Times

A Rough Ride to Bliss in Bhutan | New York Times

Bhutan Untamed: Snow Leopards on the Snowman Trek | Telegraph

Bhutan’s Dark Secret to Happiness | BBC Travel

Bhutan’s Enlightened Experiment | National Geographic

Bhutan Rising | WWF

Bhutan: Travel Blueprint | Wanderlust UK

Creating a Future for Healthy Forests in Bhutan | WWF

Phallus Art Brings Luck in Bhutan – And Tourists, Too | New York Times

Bhutan Fashion | The Telegraph

Bhutan Press Freedom | NY Times

The Tiger’s Nest | National Geographic