Bhutan Shangri La | Jhomolhari Trek, Phobjikha (Gangtey Valley), Bumthang Valley, Punakha, Thimphu & Paro!
Bhutan Himalaya Trek
This unique journey through Bhutan has been especially crafted for Kamzang Journeys.
Join us for a ‘best-of’ Bhutan trip, a diverse trip which combines trekking, cultural touring and day hikes.
We cover much of Bhutan, from Paro, Thimpu and Punakha in western Bhutan to Phobjikha in the center of the country, Bhutan’s cultural hub and a sublimely beautiful region.
Our trip begins with some sightseeing in Paro to Bhutan’s most sacred site, Taktsang or the ‘Tiger’s Nest’. Next we embark on the Jhomolhari Trek starting in the Paro valley, a 7-day trek during which we will be treated to breathtaking views of their sacred peaks Jhomolhari, Jichu Drake & Tsherimgang on the border of Tibet. Trekking through Jigme Singye National Park, you meander through beautiful alpine eadows where nomads camp in yak-hair tents, cross a mountain passes, hike through wildlife and bird filled sub-tropical jungles and through traditional Bhutanese villages, having the chance to experience rural life in Bhutan. Of course you’ll be treated to incredible Himalayan views throughout the journey!
After the trek, enjoy the scenic flight to Bumthang were you’ll have several days to explore the many dzongs (fortresses) and Buddhist monasteries, shop for the textiles for which Bumthang is famous and hike in pristine rural countryside, perhaps having a chance to see the migrating black-necked cranes in Phobjika or Chumey. To top off the trip, you’ll visit one of Bhutan’s most resplendent buildings, Punakha Dzong, as well as Paro Dzong, and have time to wander through the atmospheric streets of both cities. Throughout, you will stay in wonderful boutique-style Bhutanese hotels and be pampered by Bhutanese hospitality and charm. Of course we will have to try the national dish, ema datsi! Enjoy this specially crafted journey through magical Bhutan!
Trip
Bhutan Shangri La | Jhomolhari Trek, Phobjikha & Bumthang – Bhutan Himalayan Trekking
Day 1 – Arrive Paro | Transfer Hotel & Paro Sightseeing
Day 2 – Paro | Hike Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest)
Day 3 – Drive Sharna Zampa. Trek Shing Karap
Day 4 – Trek Soi Thangthangkha
Day 5 – Trek Jangothang (Jhomolhari Base Camp)
Day 6 – Jangothang (Jhomolhari Base Camp)
Day 7 – Trek Yaksa | Cross Bhonte La Pass 4890m
Day 8 – Trek Shana Army Camp | Cross Thongbu La Pass 4380m. Drive Drukgyel Dzong & Paro
Day 9 – Drive Trongsa
Day 10 – Drive Bumthang (Jakar) | Morning Visit Trongsa Dzong
Day 11 – Bumthang (Jakar) | Bumthang Valley Sightseeing
Day 12 – Bumthang (Jakar) | Tharpaling Monastery Hike
Day 13 – Drive Phobjikha (Gangtey Valley) | Black Neck Crane Viewing in Winter
Day 14 – Phobjikha (Gangtey Valley) | Gangtey Valley Nature Hike & Visit Gangtey Monastery
Day 15 – Drive Punakha | Visit Chimi Lhakhang & Punakha Dzong
Day 16 – Drive Thimphu | Thimphu Sightseeing
Day 17 – Trip Ends | Transfer Paro Airport
Alternative Flight Schedule
Day 9 – Paro | Paro Sightseeing
Day 10 – Fly Bumthang (Jakar)
Bhutan Trip Notes
+ Optional Luxury & Boutique Hotels or Amankora Resorts (+$)
+ Our Bhutan journey starts and finishes in Paro, Bhutan. Flights to and from Bhutan are available from Delhi, Kathmandu, Bangkok, Calcutta and a few other destinations. You can book your own Bhutan flights, or our agent can book the flights for you
+ Option to see one of Bhutan’s colorful Tsechus (monastic lama dances) in many towns
+ Option to book extra days in Phobjika, Punakha, Haa, Thimpu or Paro
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
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Kamzang Design Etsy Shop (On-Line)
Many of these handcrafted products designed by Kim and local craftspeople are available in Kathmandu, including much of the tribal silver collection …
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Client Highlights & Reviews
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+ Purchase travel insurance with helicopter evacuation!
+ Purchase trip cancellation + travel insurance
Itinerary
Bhutan Shangri La | Jhomolhari Trek, Phobjikha & Bumthang – Bhutan Himalayan Trekking
Day 1 – Arrive Paro 2390m | Transfer Hotel & Paro Sightseeing
Fly to Paro from the departure city of your choice (see Druk Air schedule). Our Bhutan travel agent can book your flights for you. The flight into Paro from Kathmandu (and elsewhere) must be one of the most spectacular on the planet. The panorama includes Everest, Kanchenjunga, Shishapangma, Gauri Shankar, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Lhotse, Chamlang, Jannu, Chomoyummo, Pauhunri, Shudu Tsenpa, Jhomolhari and Jichu Drake. You’ll have an exciting descent into the Paro valley as the captain maneuvers the jet down through the narrow, steep-sided valleys, seeming to barely miss the forested walls on either side. The landings by experienced pilots are always smooth, and clear, blue skies with temperatures in the mid-60s are worth the anxiety of the landing.
You’ll be pickup from Paro Airport by your Bhutan guide and transferred to your hotel in Paro, the lovely Tenzinling Resort (or similar standard hotel) just outside of Paro town. The rooms here are beautiful, large with high roofs and large windows overlooking the houses of the Paro suburbs and the massive Paro Dzong in the distance. If your international flights arrives by mid-morning, you’ll be treated to your first traditional Bhutanese lunch and have the afternoon to explore.
Bhutanese dishes are delicious if you like meat and chilis. Their national dish is ema dates, whole red or green chilis cooked with butter and cheese and served over rice. As a tourist you’re fed far too many dishes, and you will hardly make a dent in the ema datsi, chicken, potatoes and cheese, cauliflower and cheese, Chinese vegetables and Bhutanese vegetables!
After lunch (if you arrive in the morning) you’ll head into Paro for some sightseeing, with time to visit some of the shops that sell everything from beetle nut to exquisite, hand-woven textiles. Time permitting you can explore the traditional Bhutanese architecture and visit Rinpung Dzong, or Paro Dzong, translated as ‘Fortress on a Heap of Jewels’. Paro Dzong was built in 1644 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal on the foundation of one of Guru Rimpoche’s monasteries and was used to defend the Paro valley from invasions by Tibet. Although the dzong survived the 1897 earthquake, it was severely damaged by a fire in 1907. Like most dzongs in Bhutan, it is now the assembly hall as well as housing the monastic body, district government offices, and courts. We might also have time to visit the National Museum.
In the evening, you may have the chance to watch the locals playing archery Bhutan’s national game and a bit of an obsession in the country! Back at the Tenzinling Resort dinner is almost always at the hotel, showers are hot, and beers are always stocked! Welcome to Bhutan! Overnight: Paro Hotel
Paro (Rinpung) Dzong
“Rinpung Dzong, sometimes referred to as Paro Dzong, is a large dzong – Buddhist monastery and fortress – of the Drukpa Lineage of the Kagyu school in Paro District, Bhutan. It houses the district Monastic Body as well as government administrative offices of Paro Dzongkhag. It is listed as a tentative site in Bhutan’s Tentative List for UNESCO inclusion.
In the 15th century local people offered the crag of Hungrel at Paro to Lama Drung Drung Gyal, a descendant of Pajo Drugom Zhigpo. Drung Drung Gyal built a small temple there and later a five storied Dzong or fortress which was known as Hungrel Dzong. In the 17th century, his descendants, the lords of Hungrel, offered this fortress to the Drukpa hierarch, Ngawang Namgyal, the Zhabdrung Rinpoche, in recognition of his religious and temporal authority. In 1644 the Zhabdrung dismantled the existing dzong and laid the foundations of a new dzong. In 1646 the dzong was reconsecrated and established as the administrative and monastic centre of the western region and it became known as “Rinpung Dzong”. During the reign of the 23rd Penlop Dawa Penjor the Fortress caught fire (before the first king Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck was enthroned) and all the important relics and statues were burnt, except for the Thongdrel (20×20 metre-wide). Paying homage to the Thongdrel it is believed that the faithful can attain Nirvana.
Some scenes in the 1993 film Little Buddha were filmed in this dzong. According to the history of Paro Dzong, written by Drungchen Dasho Sangay Dorji, the rock face below the dzong was named ‘Ringpung’ by Guru Rinpoche in the eighth century, hence when the dzong was later built here, it came to be known as ‘Ringpung Dzong’.
A great annual festival or tshechu is held at Rinpung Dzong from the 11th to the 15th day of the second month of the traditional Bhutanese lunar calendar (usually in March or April of the Gregorian calendar). On this occasion, holy images are taken in a procession. This is followed by a series of traditional mask dances conveying religious stories which are performed by monks for several days. Before the break of dawn on the morning of the fifteenth day, a great sacred thongdrel banner thangka depicting the Eight Manifestations of Padmasambhava, (Guru Pema Jungney, Guru Nima Yoezer, Guru singye dradrong, Guru tshoki Dorji, Guru shacha singye, Guru pema gyelpo, Guru dorji dolo, and Guru lodan Chokse) is displayed for the public in the early morning hours, to keep to the tradition of not allowing sunlight to fall on it. The ground on which the monks perform the mask dance is called Deyangkha.” – Wikipedia
Day 2 – Paro | Hike Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest) 3120m
Today is an acclimatization day as well as a chance to hike up through beautiful pine forests to Bhutan’s most iconic landmark, Taktsang Gompa, clinging to a huge granite cliff above Paro valley. It is believed that Padmasambhava (Guru Rimpoche) came to Bhutan in the 7th century on a flying tigress and meditated in a cave for three months. The demons were subdued who were trying to stop the spread of Buddhism and converted the Paro valley into Buddhism. During the end of the 17th century a monastery was built on the spot where the saint meditated and it is a pilgrimage site for every Bhutanese to visit at least once in their life time.
The hike to Taktsang Monastery, including time at the monastery and lunch, takes a good five hours. You’ll be at altitude, so hike slowly, watch the sometimes precipitous trail and stay well hydrated. Once back at the van we can either drive back into Paro or spend the afternoon back at your hotel, finishing your packing for the trek. Overnight: Paro Hotel
Day 3 – Drive Sharna Zampa 2850m. Trek Shing Karap 3090m
You’ll drive from Paro to Drukgyel Dzong, built in 1647 to protect the Paro valley from invading Tibetans; unfortunately it was destroyed by fire in 1951. You will continue to hike up the Paro valley, passing by terraced rice paddies, orchards of fruit trees, and fields of potato, corn, mustard, radish, buckwheat, barley and wheat. The traditional villages of rammed earth and wooden farm houses and painted lintels are similar to the ones you will see throughout Bhutan. We reach Sharna Zampa, the starting point of the Jhomolhari trek, just above the Gunetshawa Army Base, where there is a check post for travelers.
Here, you will meet your trekking staff and horsemen, and begin your Bhutan trek! Crossing the wooden bridge, stay on the left side of the stream, crossing several side streams as the trail follows the Paro Chhu. You’ll pass beautiful meadows, cow paddocks and more traditional farm houses on this rocky, often muddy and undulating trail, and will pass through mixed conifer forests. Enjoy your first campsite in Bhutan! Overnight: Camp (3 hrs trek, 1 hr drive, 16 km)
Day 4 – Trek Soi Thangthangkha 3610m
After a wonderful breakfast, you’ll continut to trek further north along the border of Tibet, heading uphill through the river valley until you enter the Jigme Dorji National Park, a park of 4350 square meters and the largest protected area in the country, extending past Laya into Lunana to the east. The forests in the park are predominantly oak, maple, birch, larch pine and alder, with rhododendron taking over as the parkland reaches higher altitudes.
The valley finally narrows gradually to a mere path which descends to a meadow camp. From here, if weather permits, you will have the first wonderful views of Jhomolhari, or Chomolhari (7314m), one of Bhutan’s best known and beautiful peaks. Overnight: Camp (7-8 hrs, 22 km)
Day 5 – Trek Jangothang (Jhomolhari Base Camp) 4080m
Another chance for views of majestic Jhomolhari this morning. You will continue to trek up the Paro Chhu valley which widens into alpine meadow and scanty growths of forest; Jichu Drake (6794m) dominates the right side of the skyline. Crossing an army outpost, we enjoy increasingly spectacular views of high mountain ridges and snow-capped peaks, and yaks, yak-hair tents and seasonal settlements become a regular feature of the landscape. Passing the villages of Soe, Takethang and Dangochang, you soon reach the nomadic pasturelands of Jangothang, one of the most beautiful campsites of the Himalayas. We’ve reached the high plateaus above treeline, more Tibetan in character, and are trekking through scrub juniper and dwarf rhododendron, both used for incense. You’ll once again have a spectacular view of Mount Jhomolhari from camp. Overnight: Camp (5-6 hrs, 19 km)
Day 6 – Jangothang (Jhomolhari Base Camp) | Acclimatization Day
An acclimatization day in beautiful Jangothang, with plenty of possibilities for day hikes with great views over lakes and snow-capped Jhomolhari and Jichu Drake, as well as some blue sheep spotting in the rocky outcrops. There hasn’t been much mountaineering activity on these two peaks although Doug Scott reached the summit of Jichu Drake in 1988. A side trip up the small valley heading towards Jhomolhari leads to a great viewpoint down onto the Jhomolhari glacier. Another hike heads up to Sopu Lake, near the Nyele La. Overnight: Camp
Day 7 – Trek Yaksa 3800m | Cross Bhonte La Pass 4890m
The trail leads to a last settlement in the valley and drops to the Paro Chhu. Passing the lake of Tshophu (4380m) you will climb up steeply to Bhonte La pass, the highest point of this trek route. Reaching the Dhumzo Chhu river, you trek downstream passing the few houses of Soi Yaktsa (Dhumzo) to arrive at your camp soon afterwards. Overnight: Camp (6-7 hrs, 15 km)
Day 8 – Trek Thombu Shong & Shana Army Camp | Cross Thombu La Pass 4380m. Drive Drukgyel Dzong & Paro
The trail climbs 100m over a ridge to drop to another stream, and then after crossing the Thombu La pass, you’ll descend towards Gunitsawa and on to Shana Army Camp. Your trek has finished, and you’ll meet your private vehicle and drive to Drukgyel Dzong, continuing on to Paro. Enjoy a hot shower at your hotel in Paro, followed by a delicious Bhutanese meal, and relax for the night. Overnight: Paro Hotel (3 hrs, 14 km, 1½ hr drive)
Day 9 – Drove Trongsa
You’ll board your private vehicle for a scenic drive through Bhutan, heading to Trongsa. Your guide will give you detailed information as you drive, and you’ll have plenty of time to stop and photograph, meet locals, have tea and just enjoy the countryside en route …
You’ll cross the Dochu La pass (3100m), followed by Wangdu Phodrong and the turnoff to the Gantey valley. (6 hrs driving)
Distance Driving: 227 km
Trongsa Dzong
“Chökhor Raptentse Dzong, built in 1644, used to be the seat of power of the Wangchuck dynasty before they became rulers of Bhutan in 1907. Traditionally the King of Bhutan first becomes the Trongsa Penlop (governor) before being named Crown Prince and eventually King. Built on a mountain spur high above the gorges of the Mangde Chhu, the dzong controlled east-west trade for centuries. The only road connecting eastern and western Bhutan (the precursor to the modern Lateral Road), passed through the courtyard of the dzong. At the command of the penlop the massive doors could be shut, dividing the country in two. Higher yet on the mountainside is a watchtower, called “Ta Dzong”(watch tower), built to guard the dzong from enemies but now housing a museum and a chapel dedicated to Jigme Namgyal who was Trongsa Penlop from 1853 to 1870.
As per the prophecy of lha dang lama, in 1543 the tutor of kuenkhen Pema Karpo visited Yoeling village to the north of current day Trongsa dzong, where Yoeling Temple is located. In his clear spiritual vision, he saw a sparkling light emerging at night from a cliff in the middle of a forest. Later that day, when he went to the site, he saw the bagha of Dorji Phamo and the soul lake of Pelden Lhamo (Mahakali) as well as the footprints of her riding horse along the waist of the cliff. Yongzin Rinpoche then built a hermitage at the particular site and meditated in the area, where he saw Pelden Lhamo in person. He realized it to be a prophecy for the place to have a Majestic Dzong, from which the reign of the Pelden Drukpa would flourish as the rays of the Sun.
Trongsa is also known as Mang-deg (or Mang-dey). The history behind who, why and when the name was given runs back to the time when Buddhist scholar Kuenkhen Longchen Rabjam visited Trongsa around 1357 and conferred kachoe བཀའ་ཆོས། spiritual teaching at the place called Sherabling. During that time the people of Trongsa [devotees] offered plenty of druna (grain) as an offering. In an enchanting way, Kuenkhen Rinpoche said, “since you all offered me plenty of grain, the place will be called ‘Mang-Deg'”. Mang meaning ‘plenty’ and deg meaning ‘offered’. Thus the name of the place was derived from Kuenkhen Rinpoche’s statement, and was known as Mang-deg, which later changed to mag-dey as mentioned before, with the change of time”. – Wikipedia
Day 10 – Drive Bumthang (Jakar) | Morning Visit Trongsa Dzong
You’ll have a tour of Trongsa Dzong in the morning (see above) and then board your private vehicle for the drive east to Jakar, having crossed into Bhumtang district. You’ll check into your hotel, and have the rest of the afternoon to begin your explorations of the many sites of Bhumtang valley. (2 hrs)
Distance Driving: 66 km
Alternative Bumthang Flight Route
Day 9 – Paro | Paro Sightseeing (Alternative Drive Trongsa)
As flights to Bumthang are often cancelled, we’ll begin the beautiful drive to Bumthang, stopping at Trongsa for the night. Overnight: Trongsa Hotel
Day 10 – Fly Bumthang (Jakar) 2585m Seem more of Bhutan, flying west on a scenic 25 minute flight to Bhutan’s heartland. We land in Jakar (Bumthang) and stay in a hotel for the night. (6 hr drive) Overnight: Bumthang Hotel
Day 11 – Bumthang (Jakar) | Bumthang Valley Sightseeing
A free day for some sightseeing in Jakar and Jakar valley with your guide. You’ll visit the monasteries, dzongs and temples below, as well as the Red Panda brewery, situated in the eastern Bhumthang valley. Nearby you can buy delicious Guda cheese at the local dairy shop. A Swiss man was the force behind both the beer and the cheese. Local apple juice and apple brandy are also available, the juice being just like the apple juice in Manang, Nepal.
Back in the center of town are more shops, some owned by Tibetans, families whose refugee descendants fled Tibet in 1959. Also worth visiting are the woodcraft workshops, dying workshop, and the five water wheels behind Wangdicholing Old Palace. Overnight: Bumthang Hotel
Jakar Dzong, Jamphey Lhakhang, Kurjey Lhakhang, Tampshing Lhakhang & Tampshing Lhakhang
The majestic Jakar Dzong, built in 1549, is first on the afternoon sightseeing agenda. Next, the ancient and atmospheric Jampey Lhakhang, built it 659 by King Songsten Gampo on the same day as Kyichu Gompa in Paro in order to pin down the body of a Tibetan demoness. You will notice older Bhutanese doing ‘koras’ and counting their prayer beads, praying for a favorable rebirth. Next to this monastery is the wonderful Kurjey Lhakhang, the oldest temple of which was built in 1652. The next temple was built in 1900 by Sanpa Lhundrup, the first king of Bhutan, and the last in 1984 by the queen mother, Ashi Kesang Wangchuck. The last temple was built over a cave with the body print of Guru Rimpoche, so a sacred spot. In the eastern valley is Tampshing Lhakhang, built in 1501 by Pema Lingpa. Up another valley is the Tampshing Lhakhang, situated along a lovely country road.
Optional Bumthang Valley Sightseeing | Membartsho (The Burning Lakes) or Pesiling Monastery
If you have an extra day in Bumthang, you might consider a day excursion to Membartsho (The Burning Lakes) and visit some of the local temples around Bumthang. Or you might head out on a day hike to Pesiling Monastery.
Day 12 – Drive & Hike Tharpaling Monastery & Chumme 2935m
The hike to Tharpaling and Chumey takes about 5 hours, and you’ll arrive in idyllic and rural Chumme valley in Bumthang, with wooden fences, small stores, traditional Bhutanese architecture, and black cranes when they have migrated here. Overnight: Chumme Nature Resort
Day 13 – Drive Phobjikha 2920m
Back in your vehicles, you have a morning drive over the Yotungla Pass towards the Phobjikha valley. You’ll stop for lunch at the Chendebji Chorten before driving on over the Pele La pass to the Phobjikha valley. Overnight: Phobjikha Hotel
Day 14 – Drive Punakha 1240m | Sightseeing Punakha Dzong
Morning visit the Gangtey Goenpa Monastery and then drive on to the Punakha Valley. En route, we’ll stop and visit the ruin and reconstruction site of the Wangduephodrang Dzong. In the afternoon, with the lovely afternoon light, we’ll drive to Punakha Dzong to visit this iconic structure. Punakha Dzong is perhaps the most impressive of Bhutan’s dzongs, the second one built and the seat of the government until the 1950s. The morning light is perfect, illuminating the guilded rooftops of this impressive, iconic fortress. Overnight: Punakha Hotel
Punakha Dzong
“The Punakha Dzong, also known as Pungthang Dewa Chhenbi Phodrang (meaning “the palace of great happiness or bliss”), is the administrative center of Punakha District in Punakha, Bhutan. Constructed by Ngawang Namgyal, 1st Zhabdrung Rinpoche, in 1637–38, it is the second oldest and second-largest dzong in Bhutan and one of its most majestic structures. The dzong houses the sacred relics of the southern Drukpa Lineage of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism, including the Rangjung Kharsapani and the sacred remains of Ngawang Namgyal and the tertön Pema Lingpa. Punakha Dzong was the administrative center and the seat of the Government of Bhutan until 1955 when the capital was moved to Thimphu. It is listed as a tentative site in Bhutan’s Tentative List for UNESCO inclusion.
The Dzong is located between the Pho Chhu (Male) and Mo Chhu (Female) river in the Punakha–valley. The source of the Mo chu river is in the northern hills of Lighsi and Laya in Bhutan, and in Tibet. The Po Chu River is fed by glaciers in the Lunana region of the Punakha valley. After the confluence of these two rivers, the main river is known as Puna Tsang chu or Sankosh River and flows down through Wangdue Phodrang, crosses the Bhutan–India border at Kalikhola and eventually meets the Brahmaputra River. Punakha is the winter capital of Bhutan. The head of the clergy of Bhutan with his entourage of monks spend the winter in this dzong. Jacaranda trees grow around the dzong, blooming with mauve flowers in the spring.” – Wikipedia
Day 15 – Drive Thimphu
Morning drive from Punakha to Thimphu. En route visit the Chhimi Lhakang and stop at the Dochula Pass to visit the Druk Wangyal Lhakang and 108 chortens. Overnight: Thimphu Hotel
Day 16 – Thimphu | Thimpu Sightseeing
Sightseeing of Thimphu. Visit the world’s largest sitting Buddha, visit the Folk Heritage Museum, School of Local Art and Crafts or option to do a day hike to Phajoding Monastery overlooking the Thimphu valley. The total hike time to the monastery and back will be about 5 to 6 hours. Overnight: Thimphu Hotel
Thimphu (Tashichho) Dzong
Tashichho Dzong (Dzongkha: བཀྲ་ཤིས་ཆོས་རྫོང) is a Buddhist monastery and fortress on the northern edge of the city of Thimphu in Bhutan, on the western bank of the Wang Chu. It has traditionally been the seat of the Druk Desi (or “Deb Raja”), the head of Bhutan’s civil government, an office which has been combined with the kingship since the creation of the monarchy in 1907, and summer capital of the country.[1] In old British documents, it is known as Tassisudon.
According to a 1922 traveler:
“It was built by the first Dharma Raja, who also founded the Lho-drukpa sect of Buddhism, which has remained the distinctive sect of Bhutan. The correct transliteration of the vernacular name—Bkrashis-chhos-rdzong, meaning “the fortress of auspicious doctrine”—is, according to Graham Sandberg, Tashichhoidzong.”
The main structure of the whitewashed building is two-storied with three-storied towers at each of the four corners topped by triple-tiered golden roofs. There is also a large central tower or utse. The original Thimphu dzong (the Do-Ngön Dzong, or Blue Stone Dzong) was built in 1216 by Lama Gyalwa Lhanapa (1164–1224), founder of the Lhapa branch of the Drikung Kagyu, at the place where Dechen Phodrang Monastery now stands on a ridge above the present Tashichö-dzong. In 1641 Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal took over that Dzong from the Lhapa Kagyu, reconsecrated, and renamed it Tashichö-Dzong. It was then established as the main seat of the Southern Drukpa Kagyu and the summer residence of the monastic body or sangha headed by Shabdrung Rinpoche. Most of this original dzong was destroyed by fire in 1772 and a new dzong was built at the present site by the sixteenth Desi, Sonam Lhudrup, and it was then consecrated by the thirteenth Je Khenpo, Je Yonten Taye, who named the new Dzong Sonamchö-dzong. Following the death of the Desi it was renamed Tashichö-dzong after the old Dzong.
Tashichö Dzong was again destroyed by fire three different times as well seriously damaged by an earthquake.[when?] Each time it was rebuilt by the Desi and Je Khenpo of the time. In 1962, after the capital was moved from Punakha to Thimphu, the present Dzong was rebuilt by the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, as the seat of Government following a different plan from the old one. Only the central Utse tower, the Lhakhang Sarp (new temple), and main Gönkhang (protector temple) remain from the earlier Dzong. After its completion in 1968, the new Tashichö Dzong was consecrated by the 66th Je Khenpo Yonten Tarchin; the 16th Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpai Dorje; and Je Kudre, Jamyang Yeshe.
Tashichö Dzong (meaning Fortress of the glorious religion) has been the seat of Bhutan’s government since 1968. It presently houses the throne room and offices of the king, the cabinet secretariat and the ministries of home affairs and finance. Some other government departments are housed in buildings to the south of the Dzong, and others in new buildings in Thimphu. West of the dzong is a small tower of Ney Khang Lhakhang which houses a statue of Shakyamuni Buddha and protective deities. In 1953 the royal family took up residence in the newly built Dechencholing Palace.
In 1777, during the time of the 18th Desi, Jigme Singye, the Kunrey (assembly hall of the monks) in the Dzong was renovated, as it was totally dark inside. It was further renovated by the 25th Desi, Pema Cheda, in 1807. Phurgyal, during his tenure as the 32nd Desi, added the Ditsang lhakhang in 1826 and installed many new statues. In 2002 a newly built Neten Chudrug (16 arhats, those who had extinguished all defilements) Thongdrol was consecrated and added by His Holiness the Je Khenpo. The northern portion is the summer residence of the Je Khenpo and the Central Monastic Body.” – Wikipedia
Day 17 – Trip Ends | Transfer Paro Airport
Your guide will transfer you to the Paro Airport for your international flights. We hope you’ve enjoyed your stay in Bhutan, the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon!
Date & Price
Dates
Custom Departures
17 Days
Trip Price
$4980
+ Trip Price for 2 Travelers (Per Person)
+ Optional Bumthang Flights: $205 Per Person
+ Hotel Single Supplement – $Inquire
+ Flights to & from Bhutan NOT Included
Inquire for Luxury Bhutan Hotels
Le Meridien
Uma Hotels
Aman Bhutan
Lechuna Heritage Lodge
Zhiwa Ling
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Includes
- Bhutan’s Heritage Hotels
- Jhomolhari Trek
- Flights Bumthang
- All Meals in Bhutan
- English-speaking Bhutanese Guide
- Bhutan Visa
- Government Royalties & Taxes
- Private Transportation
- Sightseeing & Museum Entrance Fees
- Bottled Drinking Water
- Airport Transfers
Excludes
- Travel Insurance | Travel Health Insurance
- International Flights
- Equipment Rental
- Alcohol | Bottled Drinks
- Laundry
- Tipping
Highlights & Reviews
TripAdvisor Reviews
Client Highlights
Once again I carefully chose Kamzang for my exotic, indulgent trip to Bhutan. All praise to Kim and Lhakpa for making sure this was the best possible trip for our money, a trek in a very expensive/ exclusive part of the Himalayas. It was tough, it was amazing and it was the best thing I have ever done. Kim and Lhakpa spun their special magic to make this trek amazing. The Bhutanese guide Tse Tse made sure we had a good run down of what to expect each day.
Our tough trek, mud, rain, snow was everything we expected, however our time in camp, our food and our morale was always boosted by Kim and Lhakpa on even the toughest of days – and this is what we all signed up for – you cannot do the Snowman Trek and think it will be easy.
I am so glad I did this trek with Kamzang Journeys. I would do the toughest trek with Kamzang anywhere in the world. You will always get safety, dedication and genuine concern from these guys, they will ultimately help you reach your potential, and you will become friends for life. They will help you go forward with your trekking goals. Thanks guys. I will book again can’t wait.
– Shannon F (Australia), Bhutan Lunana Snowman Trek 2016
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
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Trekkers’ Comments
Highlights
- Jhomolhari Trek
- Jhomolhari Peak & the Bhutan Himalaya
- Yaks & yak-hair tents
- Diverse Bhutanese Ethnic Groups
- Drukpa Tibetan Buddhist Monasteries
- Western Bhutan (Paro, Thimpu & Punakha)
- Central & Eastern Bhutan | Bumthang
- Punakha, Paro & Thimpu Dzongs
- Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest) Hike
- Central Bhutan & Phobjikha Valley
- Black Necked Cranes in Phobjikha (Winter Season)
- Bhutan’s Incredible Cuisine!
Contact & Details
Kamzang Journeys Contact
Kim Bannister
kim@kamzang.com
kamzangkim@gmail.com
Mobile: +(977) 9803414745 (WhatsApp), 9863196743
Kathmandu Contact
Khumbu Adventures
hiking.guide@gmail.com
Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841235461, 9705235461
Doma Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841510833, 9705510833
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa Mobile: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp),
Bhutan Contacts
INNER ROUTES
Owner | Loja Sureg
sloja2013@gmail.com
+975 17 420 433
Office | Jigme & Pema
jigmelojaktbt@gmail.com, Pema tobgayloja@gmail.com
Garmin InReach | Unlimited On-Trek Text Messages + Route Map
We have a Garmin MapShare page and a Garmin InReach satellite messaging device for sending and receiving messages on the treks guided by Kim + Lhakpa. Give the link to people who want to follow or communicate with us and have them send a message. The ‘message’ button is on the top left of the email link that they receive; the sender needs to input an EMAIL address (instead of mobile number) to get a response. You can email them back directly during the trek (the device is linked to my mobile) as much as you’d like. Messages are free, enjoy!
Follow Us on Facebook
Kamzang Journeys Facebook
I will post InReach updates to our Kamzang Journeys Facebook page if friends & family want to follow our progress.
Bhutan Visas
Our Bhutan agent will issue your Bhutan visa and email it to you at least 10 days before your arrival in Paro.
Indian Visa
You will have to have an e-Tourist Visa for the end of our trip, entering Assam. Be sure to have your Indian Visa before arrival in India. Most countries qualify for the new visa-on-arrival system, which is valid for 30 days, and is double entry. NOTE that you need to apply and pay for the visa BEFORE arriving in India. You get the actual visa with your paid application once in India.
Indian Visa
Indian Visa Reference
You can print out + fill out your Visa on Arrival form before arriving in India, but you need to apply for the visa before leaving for India.
Travel Agent Delhi: Dhruv Travels, 2464, Nalwa St, Chuna Mandi, Paharganj, New Delhi, 110055, India, +91 11 2358 2715
Hotel Delhi: Jyoti Mahal Guest House, 2488-90 Nalwa Street, Chuna Mandi, Pahar Ganj, New Delhi,110055, +91 1123580523/24/25/26
Indian Visa Note
You will need a 30-day e-Tourist Visa for India, as well as for Bhutan (our Bhutan agent gets these) for this bicycle trip. Book your onward ticket out of Guwahati from early afternoon onwards on Day 18. Do book extra luggage when leaving Guwahati as extra luggage in India is $$$.
Flights To + From Bhutan
Our Bhutan agent can issue your flight to Paro from various destinations and can book your return flights, whether from Paro or from Guwahati in Assam, India. You can also book your own flights to Bhutan and from Bhutan or India. At the moment Druk Air is the only carrier flying into and out of Bhutan.
Travel Medical Insurance
Required for your own safety. We carry a copy of your insurance with all contact, personal and policy information with us on the trek and our office in Kathmandu keeps a copy. Note that we almost always trek over 4000 meters (13,000′) and that we don’t do any technical climbing with ropes, ice axes or crampons.
Global Rescue Rescue Services
We recommend (but don’t require) that our trekkers sign up for Global Rescue services as a supplement to your travel medical insurance. You can book this directly through our Kamzang Journeys site.
Global Rescue
Medical On-Trek
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs and other essentials. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please do have a full check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety.
DO bring all prescription medications and rehydration powders-electrolytes. We advise bringing your own Diamox, Ciprofloxin, Azithromycin + Augmentin. We do have all of these with us, but the Western versions are generallly more reliable than the Indian equivalents. See Gear List for a full list of recommended medications for the trek.
Bhutan Health Information
CDC
We also recommend bringing probiotics with you to help prevent infections while on trek. Doctor’s recommendation!
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
General Bhutan Information
See Bhutan Tab
Arrival Paro
Bhutan Contacts
INNER ROUTES
Owner | Loja Sureg sloja2013@gmail.com
+975 17 420 433
Office | Jigme jigmelojaktbt@gmail.com, Pema tobgayloja@gmail.com
Early Arrival in Bhutan
You will be met at the Paro airport by a representative from our Bhutan travel agency. Look for a sign with your name on it, they will be looking for you. You’ll be driven to the hotel in Paro where you will meet Kim, Lhakpa and those from the group who have already arrived. Everything is included in Bhutan, so if you arrive early you’ll have a driver, car and guide at your disposal.
Arrival Hotel
Provide upon Booking
Flights To + From Bhutan
Our Bhutan agent can issue your flight to Paro from various destinations and can book your return flights, whether from Paro or from Guwahati in Assam, India. You can also book your own flights to Bhutan and from Bhutan or India. At the moment Druk Air is the only carrier flying into and out of Bhutan.
Bhutan Visas
Our Bhutan agent will issue your Bhutan visa and email it to you at least 10 days before your arrival in Paro.
Currency, Credit Cards + ATMS
Bhutanese Ngultrum = Indian Rupee. Although the national currency is the ngultum, IC is accepted throughout Bhutan.
+ In 1974, the ngultrum was introduced, replacing the rupee at par. The ngultrum is equal in value to the Indian rupee. India was key in assisting the Bhutanese government as it developed its economy in the early 1960s. When the ngultrum was introduced, it retained the peg to the Indian rupee which the Bhutanese rupee had maintained. The ngultrum does not exchange independently with other nations’ currencies but is interchangeable with the Indian rupee.
You’ll want local currency with you on the trip and trek for drinks, snacks, beer, soda and general shopping. There are many chances to shop during the trip, especially in eastern Bhutan, and usually local crafts to buy en route. There are ATMs in Paro, Thimpu and other cities, and you’ll want some cash to change as well.
Most larger craft shops in Thimpu, Paro and Punakha will accept credit cards, although there is generally a merchant fee surcharge. Credit cards aren’t as widely accepted in the central or east of Bhutan.
Tipping in Bhutan
Tips are best in local currency, the Bhutanese ngultrum. Guides and drivers will expect tips when you last see them, so for sightseeing sections before the trip, the drivers will expect small tips, and the same for the drivers after the trip.
Bhutan Temperatures + Dress Etiquette
See GEAR LIST tab for suggested gear. This is a winter bicycle trip, and although it can be cold or wet on the passes (rain or snow), generally the temperature isn’t very cold, and evenings are spent in warm lodges, often with stoves! The winter months (November – March) are chilly in the mornings, cold enough that you might start the day in a down jacket, but warm up to jeans and t-shirt weather by late morning.
For other private cycling trips: Much of Bhutan in the Spring and Autumn is warm during the day (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirt weather), cools down in the afternoon. Nights are often below freezing although they can also be much warmer. Summer is hotter and wetter. Nights require a down jacket if you’re sitting outside. It never hurts to have an umbrella in Bhutan as it can rain at any time of the year!
Dress conservatively in the cities and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are OK if they aren’t too short, NO shorts or tank tops in the monasteries. Use your good judgment! See Bhutan Tab for the Bhutanese dress code.
Shopping in Bhutan
Bhutan is known for its crafts and textiles, and there are many local craft markets around Bhutan where you can pick up wonderful things to bring home. Your guide will help if you’re interested in shopping while in Bhutan!
Gear
Kamzang Journeys Products
Duffel Bags, T-Shirts, Camp Towels, Buffs, Leather Passport Wallets, Totes & Bags, Himalayan Textile Pillow Covers & More!
Kamzang Journeys Products
Gear List
Guideline for the gear you will need on the trek. Please ask if you have questions. 20 kg per person!
- Duffel Bag
- Day Pack (30-45 L)
- Sleeping Bag (-10 to 20F/-23C to 30C)
- Air Mattress
- Down Jacket
- Trekking Boots
- Running Shoes or Lighter Shoes (optional)
- Crocs (evenings + washing)
- Hiking Sandals (or Crocs – river crossings)
- Trekking Pants (2-3)
- T-Shirts (2-3)
- Long-sleeve Trekking Shirts (2-3)
- Trekking Jacket
- Wind + Waterproof Jacket + Pants
- Fleece or Thermal Top + Bottom (evenings)
- Lightweight Long Underwear (sleeping + layering)
- Socks (4-6)
- Gloves (lighter + heavier for passes)
- Wool Hat
- Baseball Cap or Wide-brimmed Hat
- Camp Towel
- Trekking Poles (optional, recommended)
- Down Booties (optional, recommended)
- Sunglasses (+ extra pair)
- Water Bottles | Nalgenes (2-3)
- Bladder (optional, recommended)
- Toiletries, Sunscreen with SPF, Lip Balm with SPF
- Watch (or alarm)
- Extra Batteries
- Battery Chargers
- Head Lamp
- Yak Trax or Micro Spikes (for treks with icy passes)
- Small Water Filter or Steripen (optional, to carry in daypack)
- Camp Washing Bowl (optional, collapsible for clothes)
- Laundry Detergent or Bio-degradable Clothes Soap
- Hand Sanitizer
- Small Solar Panel (optional, recommended for iPods, iPhones, camera batteries, Kindles)
- Book(s)
- Zip-Lock Plastic Bags (extra protection for electronics, toiletries)
- Soft Toilet Paper | Tissues (we supply toilet paper but you will want something softer for blowing your nose)
- Baby-Wipes | Wet-Wipes (for personal cleaning)
- Handi-Wipes, J-Cloth or Chux (optional – quick clean, fast drying)
- Rehydration | Electrolytes
- Snacks!
- Personal Medical Supplies
Medical + Suggested MEDS
We have a full medical kit with us including Diamox (for acclimatizing), antibiotics, inhalers, bandages, re-hydration, painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs etc. but please bring a supply of all prescription and personal medications. Kim has First Aid, CPR and Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certifications as well as many years of experience with altitude in the Himalaya but is NOT a qualified medic or doctor, so please have a check-up before leaving home, and inform us of any medical issues. This is for YOUR OWN safety!
Suggested prescriptions + meds: Dexamethasone, Nifedipine + Diamox (altitude), Azithromycin, Ciprofloxacin + Augmentin (antibiotics), Compeed or blister bandages, Tegaderm, bandages, tape, antibiotic ointment + Betadine (Povidone-Iodine ointment) (wounds + cuts), knee + ankle supports/braces (if required), ACE bandage for sprains + strains. Bring whatever pain meds you generally use (Ibuprofen, Paracetamol/Tylenol, Diclofenac), meds for diarrhea (Loperimide/Immodium) and nausea (Ondansetron), antihistamines (non-drowsy, and Benadryl is ok for a drowsy one that might help with sleep), as well as any medications that you take regularly or that your doctor prescribes. We recommend picking up a combination salmeterol and fluticasone inhaler in Kathmandu, good for (from a doctor trekking friend “high altitude cough due to reactive airways, which is kind of like temporary asthma. The ingredients in the inhaler relax the bronchial passages and calm inflammation in the airways.”
Stay away from sleeping medications, drugs in the codeine-opiate-narcotic family and other drugs that suppress your breathing (not a good at altitude). And don’t forget electrolytes! – have some with you in your pack (as well as snacks) every day please …
We’re happy to take excess medical supplies off your hands when you leave if you won’t need them and pass them on to others. We use lots of the large amount we have with us to treat locals as well as our own trekkers…
Comments on Gear
Layers are essential for trekking. Quality is more important than quantity. It’s worth investing in the great, newer lightweight trekking gear available in all gear shops, online or in Kathmandu.
Kim’s Gear Suggestions: I generally wear a trekking t-shirt, light trekking pants, a mid-weight shirt, a lightweight synthetic jacket (instead of a fleece), a lightweight jacket and pants for wind and rain. If the weather looks stormy or it’s a pass day I carry a lightweight down jacket and a storm-weight jacket. I always have a pair of lightweight gloves (heavier ones additionally for pass days), a hat, a baseball cap and an extra pair of socks in my day-pack. I generally trek in low Merrill hiking shoes, and Keen boots on very cold days and over passes. I always carry Crocs with me in case of river crossings, or to air my feet at lunch. I carry a 38 L (although it looks larger) Black Diamond day pack although I also love Osprey packs. On pass days I carry Yak Trax and trekking poles, and I always have an extra pair of sunglasses, electrolytes, my camera, a medical kit, a Steripen, snacks and lots of water in my pack. My favorite gear brands available in Kathmandu are Sherpa Gear, Mountain Hardwear and Marmot. I wear lots of Patagonia gear although it’s not available in Kathmandu.
Good trekking boots are essential. High boots are best, but you don’t need climbing or plastic boots (for mini-crampons or micro-spikes). You can also get away with low, sturdy trekking boot, which I wear quite often except for over the passes. Trekking poles are not required but strongly recommended, especially for going down passes which are often steep and icy and for treks with river crossings. Bring gators if you tend to use them but they’re not required if you don’t own a pair. Micro-spikes (mini-crampons) or YakTraxs are almost always useful (or essential) for the pass crossings. We will have at least one ice ax with us. It’s also good (possibly essential) to have a pair of plastic Crocs for washing and to wear in the lodges in the evenings. Tevas take a long time to dry and are relatively heavy.
Good, polarized sunglasses are essential. Do bring an extra pair. Don’t forget a sun hat and/or a baseball cap, an extra headlamp and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF!
The weather is changeable in the Himalaya, so again I recommend that everyone has a strong, WATERPROOF duffel bag for the trip (although they do tend to weigh more). We supply covers that go over the duffel bags to protect them from rain, dirt & rips.
Nights are cold, so a down jacket and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. For your sleeping bag, we recommend a DOWN bag of 0 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C). Mine is -20 F. At lower altitudes I open it and sleep under it like a quilt and up higher am toasty warm during the cold nights. Campsites near passes can get COLD. Rentals available. The dining tent is a Tibetan style ‘yurt’, with blankets and camp chairs on the ground. It warms up in the evenings with the gas lamp but it is still important to have warm clothes for the evenings. I always use down booties which are great when it’s cold, but a pair of thick wool socks also work.
Bring extra large plastic bags or stuff-sacks in case of rain. You can pack electronics in them or stash your sleeping bag and clothes. The weather is changeable in the Himalaya, so again I recommend that everyone has a strong, waterproof duffel bag for the trip. We supply covers that go over the duffel bags to protect them from rain, dirt & thorns.
Tents
Everyone gets their own Western tent without a single supplement. Tents supplied by Xplore Bhutan.
Day Pack
We recommend a 35-45 liter day pack (ask at your gear shop if you’re not sure of the capacity). Better to have it too large than too small as on pass days you’ll need to carry more warm gear. Most have internal water bladders built in, which are good for ensuring that you stay hydrated. Make sure it fits and is comfortable before purchasing!
In your day pack, you will be carrying your camera, 2+ liters of water, a jacket, wind & rain pants, hat, gloves, extra socks, sunscreen, snacks, electrolytes, water purifying tablets, filter, or Steripen camera, hand sanitizer, a pack-cover and often a down jacket. I slip my Crocs on the back in case of unexpected stream crossings or for lunch.
Water
We bring KATADYN expedition-sized water filters along on the trek for fresh drinking water, ecologically the best way to get water in the Himalaya’s fragile trekking regions. Bring your own filter pump, Steripen/UV purifier or iodine/chlorine tablets for fresh water while trekking. NOTE: To be extra safe with your drinking water, you can drop one purifying tablet into your water bottle after filling with our filtered water. Make sure you wait the required amount of time before drinking, and don’t add anything with Vitamin C as this negates the iodine.
Please bring at least TWO (and better three) Nalgene, Sigg or other unbreakable plastic/metal water bottles. Camelbacks and other bladder systems are good for trekking but can leak, so as a back-up it’s best to also bring a Nalgene or other water bottle.
NOTE: We do not provide boiled water for drinking on either our tea-house/lodge or our camping treks although there is endless hot water for herbal, black or green teas, hot chocolate, hot lemon as well as Indian chai and Kashmiri tea.
Snacks
You will NEED snacks hiking at altitude, even if you’re not a snacker. People crave unusual foods at altitude! Energy bars, ‘GU’ gels, chocolate bars, dried fruit & nuts, beef jerky (or whatever) are important to have along for long days, before lunch and passes. Lemonade mix, Emergen-C or similar drink mixes are great to have for hot days in your water bottles, and it is ESSENTIAL to bring electrolytes with you every day.
Packing & Storage
It’s easiest to pack and unpack from a duffel bag, especially when the temperature drops, and easiest for porters to carry. Inexpensive and decent quality duffels are available in Kathmandu (if you’re passing through) but it’s best to invest in a strong, waterproof duffel such as a North Face. You can store extra gear with Xplore Bhutan before the trek.
Travel Photography Gear Guide
The Complete Guide to Gear for the Landscape Photographer
Bhutan
Bhutan
Shrouded for centuries in the misty serenity of the great Himalayas, the Land of the Thunder Dragon, or Bhutan, as now known to the rest of the world, developed its own distinct civilization. This deeply spiritual land is home to a unique identity, derived essentially from a fertile religious and cultural heritage. Bhutan brims with myth and legend. As a befitting testimony, a great Buddhist heritage of over 2000 monasteries and 10,000 monuments dot its peaceful open space and regal mountains. An ambience of near sacred tranquility permeates the land, fostering an environment of spiritual affluence that has shaped the foundation of that rarity that we know as Bhutanese life. All Bhutanese are required to wear their national dress, called gho for men, kira for women.
The Bhutanese have deliberately and zealously safeguarded and preserved their rich culture and traditions, its ancient way of life, in all its aspects. And it is perhaps one of the world’s last strongholds of unspoiled wilderness. It is a part of the earth that represents a fabled realm. Bhutan is a land where the past and the contemporary co-exist in harmony, a recipe that makes a journey undeniably amazing. A trip through Bhutan, in many ways, is still a journey into the past. In this small tract of land, one of the most rugged terrains in the world frames one of the world’s richest vegetation. It is a land of about 700,000 people who believe that Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross National Product. Bhutan is a country with a different face. And a different story to tell.
Apart from trekking along the northern frontier, you will be also visiting the main western towns of Thimphu, Paro and Punakha. Western Bhutan is comparatively more developed than the rest of the country. Thimphu, the capital, has all the important government offices, including the King’s Secretariat. Paro has the only airport and Punakha is the ancient capital of Bhutan.
The yeti, locally known as ‘migoi’, is still talked about in the high, Himalayan regions of Bhutan. From a BBC article “It’s widely believed in Bhutan that the yeti walks backwards to fool trackers … Another common belief is that the yeti cannot bend its body, a feature it is thought to share with evil spirits. According to author Kunzang Choden, this explains why most traditional Bhutanese homes have small doorways. In her book, Bhutanese Tales of the Yeti, she describes how the raised threshold and lowered lintel force anyone who enters to lift their leg and bend their head.”
Ethnic Groups of Bhutan
There are numerous ethnic groups in Bhutan, and no one group constitutes a majority of the Bhutanese population. The Bhutanese are of four main ethnic groups, which themselves are not necessarily exclusive: the politically and culturally dominant Ngalop of western and northern Bhutan; the Sharchop of eastern Bhutan; the Lhotshampa concentrated in southern Bhutan; and Bhutanese tribal and aboriginal peoples living in villages scattered throughout Bhutan.
Ngalop
The Ngalop, meaning ‘earliest risen’ or ‘first converted’ according to folklore, are people of Tibetan origin who migrated to Bhutan as early as the 9th century. The Ngalop introduced Tibetan culture and Buddhism to Bhutan and their language, Dzongkha, is the national language, coming from old Tibetan. The Ngalop are dominant in western and northern Bhutan, including Thimphu.
Sharchop
The Sharchop, meaning ‘easterner’, are people of mixed Tibetan, South Asian and Southeast Asian descent residing primarily in eastern Bhutan, the largest ethnic group in Bhutan. Most Sharchop speak Tshangla, a Tibeto-Burman language, and are closely related to the aboriginal Monpa (Menba) although most have been largely assimilated into the Tibetan-Ngalop culture.
Lhotshampa
The Lhotshampa are generally classified as Hindus although this group includes Buddhist Tamang and Gurung, as well as Kiranti (Rai and Limbu) who are traditionally largely animist. The Lhotshampa are generally Nepalese, and their main festivals include Dashain and Tihar. In the past, the Bhutanese government attempted to limit immigration and restrict residence and employment of Nepalese to the southern region, and throughout the 80s and 90s, over 100,000 Lhotshampa fled Bhutan for Nepal in fear of persecution. Many Bhutanese refugees still reside in UNHCR refugee camps in Nepal, though many have been resettled to third countries.
Indigenous + Tribal Groups
Small aboriginal and indigenous tribes live scattered throughout Bhutan, culturally and linguistically part of the populations of West Bengal or Assam, having embraced Hindu agricultural systems. These groups include Brokpa, Lepcha and Doya tribes, as well as the descendants of slaves who were brought to Bhutan from tribal areas in India.
Tibetans
Bhutan also has a sizable Tibetan refugee population, most arriving after 1959 although there are no purely Tibetan communities or villages. There were once three types of Tibetan refugees in Bhutan, most of whom migrated to India to be with the Dalai Lama, while the third group was divided into two sections, those who chose to stay in Bhutan, and those who stayed but chose to leave. Those Tibetans who chose to stay now have Bhutanese residency, while the others do not, and they don’t share exactly the same benefits as other Bhutanese.
Culture of Bhutan
Cradled in the folds of the Himalayas, Bhutan has relied on its geographic isolation to protect itself from outside cultural influences. A sparsely populated country bordered by India to the south, and China to the north, Bhutan has long maintained a policy of strict isolationism, both culturally and economically, with the goal of preserving its cultural heritage and independence. Only in the last decades of the 20th century were foreigners allowed to visit the country, and only then in limited numbers. In this way, Bhutan has successfully preserved many aspects of its culture, which dates directly back to the mid-17th century.
Modern Bhutanese culture derives from ancient culture. This culture affected the early growth of this country. Dzongkha and Sharchop, the principal Bhutanese languages, are closely related to Tibetan, and Bhutanese monks read and write the ancient variant of the Tibetan language, known as chhokey. The Bhutanese are physically similar to the Tibetans, but history does not record when they crossed over the Himalayas and settled in the south-draining valleys of Bhutan. Both Tibetans and Bhutanese revere the tantric guru, Padmasambhava, the founder of Himalayan Buddhism in the 8th century.
Religion in Bhutan
Bhutanese society is centered around the practice of Buddhism, which is the main religion. Religious beliefs are evidenced in all aspects of life. Prayer flags flutter on hillsides, offering up prayers to benefit all nearby sentient beings. Houses each fly a small white flag on the roof indicating the owner has made his offering payments to appease the local god. Each valley or district is dominated by a huge dzong, or high-walled fortress, which serves the religious and administrative center of the district. Approximately 23% of the population is Hindu. There is a small Muslim population in Bhutan, covering 0.2% of the whole country’s population. Overall, 75% of the population is Buddhist, and 0.4% other religions.
Religious Festivals
Once every year, a dzong or important village may hold a religious festival, or Tsechu. Villagers from the surrounding district come for several days of religious observances and socializing while contributing auspicious offerings to the lama or monastery of the festival. The central activity is a fixed set of religious mask dances, or cham, held in a large courtyard. Each individual dance takes up to several hours to complete and the entire set may last two to four days. Observation of the dances directly blesses the audience and also serves to transmit principles of Tantric Buddhism to the villagers. A number of the dances can be traced directly back to Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal himself, the founder of Bhutan, and have been passed down essentially unchanged since the mid-17th century. Prior to dawn on the final day of the tsechu a huge tapestry, or thongdrel, is unfurled in the courtyard of the dzong for several hours. The mere sight of it is believed to bring spiritual liberation. The thongdrel is rolled up before the rays of the morning sun can strike it.
Monks join the monastery at six to nine years of age and are immediately placed under the discipleship of a headmaster. They learn to read chhokey, the language of the ancient sacred texts, as well as Dzongkha and English. Eventually they will choose between two possible paths: to study theology and Buddhist theory, or take the more common path of becoming proficient in the rituals and personal practices of the faith.
The daily life of the monk is austere, particularly if they are stationed at one of the monasteries located high in the mountains. At these monasteries food is often scarce and must be carried up by the monks or their visitors. The monks are poorly clothed for winter conditions and the monasteries are unheated. The hardship of such a posting is well-recognized; to have a son or brother serving in such a monastery is recognized as very good karma for the family. A monk’s spiritual training continues throughout his life. In addition to serving the community in sacramental roles, he may undertake several extended silent retreats. A common length for such a retreat is three years, three months, three weeks and three days. During the retreat time he will periodically meet with his spiritual master who will test him on his development to ensure that the retreat time is not being wasted.
Each monastery is headed by an abbot who is typically a Lama, although the titles are distinct. The highest monk in the land is the chief abbot of Bhutan, whose title is Je Khenpo. He is theoretically equivalent in stature to the king. The Central Monk Body is an assembly of 600 or so monks who attend to the most critical religious duties of the country. In the summer they are housed in Thimphu, the nation’s capital, and in the winter they descend to Punakha dzong, the most sacred dzong in Bhutan, where Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal’s mortal body has been kept under vigil since the late 17th century.
Music of Bhutan
Bhutanese music has traditional genres such as Zhungdra, Boedra, and a modern genre called Rigsar. Bhutanese musicians include: Jigme Drukpa, who is also a leading Bhutanese musicologist.
Official Behavioral Code
The Driglam Namzha is the official behaviour and dress code of Bhutan. It governs how citizens should dress in public and how they should behave in formal settings. It also regulates a number of cultural assets such as art and Bhutanese architecture. In English, driglam means “order, discipline, custom, rules, regimen” and namzha means “system,” though the term may be styled “The Rules for Disciplined Behaviour.”
It is a manner and etiquette as what to wear, how to eat, talk and bow down before the government officials and the clergy. The Driglam Namzha was imposed on all citizens from 1990. The people of different ethnic heritage for example the Lhotsampas (Bhutanese citizens of ethnic Nepali origin – they were not Bhutanese citizens and they were not Lhotsampas) resented this and revolted against this imposition, thereby getting kicked out of Bhutan to the refugee camps. About 20% of Bhutan’s population currently live in exile because of this Bhutanization policies of the Royal Government followed by land expropriation and persecution.
To preserve the indigenous Buddha’s Teachings as their long-guarded culture and tradition, Menjong Chöthün Tshogpa, a charitable organization was established in 2002 by The Supreme Dharma King or Trulku Jigme Chöda Rinpoche 70th Je Khenpo of Bhutan.[2] The chairman at present is Trizin Tsering Rimpoche who also happens to be the founder of Buddha Dordenma Image Foundation, another charitable organization in Bhutan.
National Dress Code
Previously all Bhutanese citizens were required to observe the national dress code, known as Driglam Namzha, while in public during daylight hours. The rule was enforced more rigorously in some districts (dzongkhag) than others. Men wear a heavy knee-length robe tied with a belt, called a gho, folded in such a way to form a pocket in front of the stomach.
Women wear colourful blouses over which they fold and clasp a large rectangular cloth called a kira, thereby creating an ankle-length dress. A short silk jacket, or toego may be worn over the kira. Everyday gho and kira are cotton or wool, according to the season, patterned in simple checks and stripes in earth tones. For special occasions and festivals, colourfully patterned silk kira and, more rarely, gho may be worn.
Additional rules of protocol apply when visiting a dzong or a temple, or when appearing before a high-level official. Male commoners wear a white sash (kabney) from left shoulder to opposite hip. Local and regional elected officials, government ministers, cabinet members, and the King himself each wear their own colored kabney. Women wear a narrow embroidered cloth draped over the left shoulder, a rachu.
The dress code has met with some resistance from Lhotshampa, people of Nepali ancestry, living along the Indian border who resent having to wear a cultural dress which is not their own.
Bhutanization | The Darker Side
Despite living in Bhutan for up to five generations, the Lhotsampas retained their highly distinctive Nepali language, culture, and religion. They participated in public life and politics, even attaining positions of significant leadership. The Lhotsampas coexisted peacefully with other ethnic groups in Bhutan until the mid 1980s, when Bhutan’s king and the ruling Druk majority became worried that the growing Lhotsampa population could threaten the majority position and the traditional Buddhist culture of the Druk Bhutanese.
The government therefore initiated a campaign, known as “One country, one people,” or “Bhutanization” to cement Bhutanese national identity. The policies imposed the Druk dress code, religious practices, and language use on all Bhutanese regardless of prior practices. These changes negatively impacted the Lhotsampa people, because they did not wear the same traditional dress, practice the same religion, or speak the same language as the northern Bhutanese. The use of the Nepali language was prohibited in schools, many Lhotsampa teachers were dismissed, and textbooks were burned.
Men + Women in Society
Men and women work together in the fields, and both may own small shops or businesses. Men take a full part in household management, often cook, and are traditionally the makers and repairers of clothing (but do not weave the fabric). In the towns, a more “western” pattern of family structure is beginning to emerge, with the husband as breadwinner and the wife as home-maker. Both genders may be monks, although in practice the number of female monks is relatively small.
Marriages are at the will of either party and divorce is not uncommon. The marriage ceremony consists of an exchange of white scarves and the sharing of a cup. Marriages can be officially registered when the couple has lived together for more than six months. Traditionally the groom moves to the bride’s family home (matrilocality), but newlyweds may decide to live with either family depending on which household is most in need of labour.
Bhutanese Names
Except for royal lineages, Bhutanese names do not include a family name. Instead two traditional auspicious names are chosen at birth by the local lama or by the parents or grandparents of the child. First names generally give no indication if the person is male or female; in some cases the second name may be helpful in that regard.
As there is a limited constellation of acceptable names to choose from, inevitably many people share the same combination of first and second names. To resolve the ambiguity an informal nicknaming system comes into play which recognizes where a person is from. If a certain “Chong Kinley” is from Chozom village in the Paro valley, she is called “Paro Kinley” when she is travelling outside the valley. In Paro valley itself she is identified by the name of her village, thus “Chong Kinley Chozom”. Surprisingly, multiple children in a small hamlet of a few houses may have exactly the same name, reflecting the inspiration of the local lama. In this case, she is identified by the name of the house she was born in, thus “Chemsarpo” Kinley.
Food of Bhutan
The staple foods of Bhutan are red rice (like brown rice in texture, but with a nutty taste, the only variety of rice that grows in high altitudes), buckwheat, and increasingly maize. The diet in the hills also includes chicken, yak meat, dried beef, pork, pork fat, and lamb. Soups and stews of meat, rice, ferns, lentils, and dried vegetables, spiced with chili peppers and cheese, are a favourite meal during the cold seasons.
Zow shungo is a rice dish mixed with leftover vegetables. Ema datshi, made very spicy with cheese and chili peppers (similar to chili con queso), might be called the national dish for its ubiquity and the pride that Bhutanese have for it. Other foods include: jasha maru (a chicken dish), phaksha paa, thukpa, bathup, and fried rice.
Dairy foods, particularly butter and cheese from yaks and cows, are also popular, and indeed almost all milk is turned into butter and cheese. Popular beverages include: butter tea, black tea, locally brewed ara (rice wine), and beer. Popular spices include: curry, cardamom, ginger, thingay (Sichuan pepper), garlic, turmeric, and caraway.
When offered food, one says meshu meshu, covering one’s mouth with the hands in refusal according to Bhutanese manners, and then gives in on the second or third offer.
Sports of Bhutan
Archery is the national sport in Bhutan, and competitions are held regularly in most villages. It differs from Olympic standards in technical details, such as the placement of the targets and atmosphere. There are two targets placed over 100 m apart and teams shoot from one end of the field to the other. Each member of the team shoots two arrows per round.
Traditional Bhutanese Archery is a social event, and competitions are organized between villages, towns, and amateur teams. There is usually plenty of food and drink complete with singing and dancing. Attempts to distract an opponent include standing around the target and making fun of the shooter’s ability. Darts (kuru) is an equally popular outdoor team sport, in which heavy wooden darts pointed with a 10 cm nail are thrown at a paperback-sized target 10 to 20 m away.
Another traditional sport is digor, which resembles shot put and horseshoe throwing.
Football is the most popular sport in Bhutan. In 2002, Bhutan’s national football team played Montserrat in what was billed as The Other Final; the match took place on the same day Brazil played Germany in the World Cup Final, and at the time Bhutan and Montserrat were the world’s two lowest ranked teams. It was held in Thimphu’s Changlimithang Stadium, and Bhutan won 4–0. Cricket has also gained popularity in Bhutan, particularly since the introduction of television channels from India. The Bhutan national cricket team is one of the most successful affiliate nations in the region.
– Most of this information from Wikipedia
Tucked between the Tibetan Plateau to the north and India to the south, west and east, Bhutan lies entirely within the Eastern Himalayas. It’s just half the size of Indiana. But 51% of its land is protected—the highest percentage of any nation in Asia. Equally striking, the Bhutanese constitution requires at least 60% of the country’s forest cover to be permanently maintained (the country is currently at more than 70%).
Those percentages reflect the value of protected areas—and more broadly, nature—to multiple facets of Bhutanese society. One is spiritual: Bhutan’s culture is rooted in Buddhism, which emphasizes the interdependence between humans and nature … Wildlife delivers revenue as well. The country’s mountains, alpine meadows and thick forests shelter more than 5,600 vascular plant species and 200 mammal species. There are tigers, snow leopards and Asian elephants—as well as bird species like the beautiful nuthatch. Tourism showcasing Bhutan’s biodiversity and nature-inspired culture is one of the fastest-growing sectors of the country’s economy …
Renewable hydropower sold to India currently generates more than 45% of national revenue, and the country must diversify its economy to address its evolving needs. At the same time, Bhutan’s leaders are keeping a close eye on Gross National Happiness—the country’s holistic approach to prosperity that includes social, environmental and political priorities alongside economic ones.” – WWF
“The majority of Bhutanese still live off the land, practicing subsistence agriculture and animal husbandry. Bhutan is the only country in the world whose state religion is Mahayana Buddhism. Its official language, Dzongkha, is spoken in few other places on earth — but all Bhutanese schoolchildren, even in the deepest countryside, are taught English. Bhutan only got television in 1999. There are no plastic bags allowed in Bhutan, and 72 percent of the country is under forest cover. In 2013, the government announced its intention to become the world’s first 100-percent organic-farming nation … Gender equality is a work in progress; fewer than 9 percent of the country’s nationally elected officials are women.” – NY Times
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