Manaslu Circuit Lodge Trek
Nepal Himalaya Trekking

Manaslu Circuit & Tsum Valley Lodge Trek – Nepal Himalayan Trek
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! You will be met at Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from Kamzang Journeys or Khumbu Adventures – our partners Doma, Lhakpa and Nuru Sherpa in Kathmandu. Please look for a sign with your name on it. Transfer to the Kathmandu Guest House (or see Kathmandu Hotels tab for luxury, boutique, and other hotel options in the Kathmandu Valley) where your room has been booked for you. Drink plenty of water to hydrate after your flight, and enjoy your first evening in Kathmandu …

We’ll need your travel medical insurance, and we’ll photography your passport and Nepali visa, so please have them ready to give to Lhakpa, Doma or Nuru. And please ask if you need your gear checked, or have shopping or sightseeing questions. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Enjoy dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants. (B)

Day 2 – Kathmandu
Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (see Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples. (B)

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Day 3 – Drive Arughat & Macchakhola 875m
You will be up early for your lovely but sometimes bumpy drive from Kathmandu, mostly driving along the Trisuli River, to the starting part of your trek in the scenic Gurung Middle Hills of Nepal. Arughat is a small village on the Bhudi Gandaki River inhabited mainly by Newars, and the major supply depot for the trade route north to the border of Tibet. The route is bucolic and hot as you dive through Nepal’s green middle hills, driving up the Bhudi Gandaki River through villages of mixed Gurung, Magar, and Brahmin-Chhetri denizens. Eventually, you reach the small hamlet of Machakhola (Fish River), which was wiped out by a flood several years ago and rebuilt as a trekking hub and small village, where you will stay at a traditional lodge for the night. (B, L, D)

Day 4 – Trek Jagat 1370m
A long and hot trekking day, starting with a walk through the village of Korlebesi an hour past Macchakhola, and followed by an hour of walking along the river, by tobacco and buckwheat fields, past rocks washed smooth by the river, often climbing up stone steps, to reach the hot springs in the center of the small, terraced village of Tatopani. You have plenty of time to soak our grungy bodies in the gushing hot water streaming out of sculpted spouts. A gentle climb through the woods past some spectacular waterfalls and sculpted rocks brings us to a new suspension bridge across the Budhi Gandaki which you cross. Continue along a forested path and soon reach the large teahouse at Dobhan.

After a short break, you’ll cross the Dhoban Khola on another long suspension bridge. Above Dobhan, the Budhi Gandaki descends in an impressive series of steep cataracts with water and weather-sculpted rocks along the riverside, passing through a tangled green forest of trees, vines and flowers (including orchids), the dusty trail hugging the cliffside. You’ll share the trail with local sheep and goat herders, the youngest of the flock in rope baskets slung over their backs. More steep steps along cliff walls to climb as the river descends even more steeply and stratified river rocks decorate our route. It’s hot and there will be chances to stop at fly-blown Nepali bhattis, shared with local farm animals, for a drink, snack and rest en route. The valley flattens a bit and after a short climb you reach a newer bhatti and campsite. From here your trail climbs high above the river, nearly 200 meters, only to descend to an ‘eye’ of the Budhi Gandaki River. The valley widens, the river makes a large S turn and then calms.

Stop for lunch at another camping spot and group of bamboo teahouses called Yaru just at the bottom of this climb. The hike continues with an exciting elevated walkway (already broken – or ending in nothingness – in 2022) built into the cliffside far above the river, bringing you to yet another long, new suspension bridge crossing the Budhi Gandaki. Crossing the bridge, climb high, descend past the campsites of lower Jagat, and then climb again on neat stone steps to enter Jagat, the entranceway to the Manaslu National Park where your guide will check you into the park. There is WiFi available here, and it’s worth wandering around the beautiful, paved village, with ancient chortens in the center of the village, where village mothers’ groups have recorded how much they contributed to these paving schemes. (6-7 hrs) (B, L, D)

Day 5 – Trek Philim 1570m
Enjoy your short day of less than three hours. After descending a long series of stone steps back down to the river from Jagat village, climb on slab steps along a terraced hill-side to the small hamlet of Saguleri, just past where you’ll have your first view of the impressive Shringi Himal (7187m). Beautiful red flame-leaf trees adorn the trail as you continue to climb and descend far above the river. You will pass through the fly-blown paved village of Sirdibas, where the local children sell oranges in the autumn, and soon afterwards pass by the local water mill. Crossing the river again on a long, high suspension bridge at Gata Khola, you have a steep climb past green fields of wheat to reach Philim (1570m), the MCAP headquarters with a health post, a Japanese sponsored school and a micro-hydro plant. You’ll arrive at Philim in time for lunch, and will spend an hour or two exploring the interesting upper levels of this Gurung village, with Chhyoling Sandu Gompa and its friendly care-taker family right at the top of the village.

The fascinating upper village’s Gurung inhabitants are quite poor, and often when camping in Philim we would spend the afternoon tending to wounds. Notice the chorten with the Maoist hammer and sickle in the center of the upper village, the kane chortens with murals inside and the intricately woven baskets which both the men and the women craft. The exquisite gold heirloom necklaces that adorn some of the women come from Barpak. Be careful of village dogs as they do sometimes bite (Kim has firsthand experience in this …), and do keep an eye on the skies as we’ve spotted golden eagles here. After an interesting afternoon of wandering through beautiful and fascinating Philim, enjoy a locally sourced dinner at the lodge, and maybe a cold beer as you’re still at lower altitudes! (3 hrs) (B, L, D)

Day 6 – Trek Deng 1865m
Leaving Philim along the main, paved trail you’ll hike through corn and millet fields on a high trail over the Budhi Gandaki and soon pass Ekle Bhatti (which means one tea-house). Continuing on this spectacular trail, we hike through a narrow, dramatic gorge with towering walls, past a thundering waterfall to the right of the trail and more smaller ones along the way. White-faced langurs frolic in the trees above and remote villages cling to the opposite side of the gorge. Everything is green and in full bloom. About two hours past Philim, just as we reach the metal bridge which spans the Budhi Gandaki, with the trail leading east to the Tsum valley to our right.

Passing the Tsum valley entrance, descend for a bit to cross the Budhi Gandaki on a steel Bailey’s bridge, and continue further north into more Tibetan border regions. Enjoy the wild rose bushes and deep blue clematis, and the vultures and golden eagles as they soar above. You might run into villagers from Nyak (2340m), a remote village perched high above the trail, herding their sheep and goats as you trek. You ascend gradually along a wide, hillside trail through an open pine forest, and cross the river two more times on newly built steel suspension bridges (built by a Gurkha NGO – note the old bridge still barely hanging at the second bridge), trekking on generally flatter trails through dense woods of rhododendrons, bamboo, orchids and wild flowers. As you climb, look back for views of Ganesh Himal IV. After 1½ hours we pass the small hamlet and teahouses of Pewa (Paha) (1975m), where our camping group stopped for the night in 2022, setting up the dining tent and with the option of staying in the rooms of Five Sisters Lodge. We continue on, relatively easy climbing as we leave the narrow river gorge and finally cross the intersecting Dyang (Deng) Khola on a metal suspension bridge to climb briefly to the hamlet of Deng.

Deng is the start of the region called Kutang, where the inhabitants are ethnically Tibetan but speak a different dialect than the people of upper Nubri, where the inhabitants are purely Tibetan. The Kutang dialect, called ‘kukay’, is a mix of Tibeto-Burman and Gurung, and their culture is a mix of Nepal and Tibet. You’ll have views of the Ganesh Himal to the rear, as well as Lapuchen and Dwijen Himals to the north. You will stay at Hotel Windy Valley at the start of the town, a lovely family-run guest house with a small shop and a lawn with outdoor tables or an indoor dining room with stove for enjoying the late afternoon. It’s worth a visit to one of the local houses, perhaps for a glass of local ‘chang’, or Tibetan beer, It starts to feel like a piece of old Tibet … (B, L, D)

Alternative Route – Trek Prok 2400m
From Deng, you have 4-5 hours of quite spectacular trails, a rollercoaster of ascents and descents to the Prok turnoff. You cross tributary streams two times on metal suspension bridges, always staying high above the Budhi Gandaki, with local mountain pepper (timbur) bursting form the trailside plants. The walk through the gorge is breathtaking but hot, with spectacular views throughout the day, and some potential small rockslides. Kim’s group once met the postman, hand delivering small cloth bound parcels with wax stamps to remote households.

The valley is steep-sided and impressive, descending briefly to a metal suspension bridge which you cross as you head along the undulating trail into Nupri. You’ll switchback steeply, once climbing a notched wooden ladder, up to the small, poor village of Rana where the women usually have their looms out. After more climbing through lovely woods of pine and crossing another bridge, you reach Bihi Phedi, where there is a new lodge (with a good campsite), a small tea-house where we often stop for a quick rest and views of Kutang Himal. From this point in the trek, you start to see very artistic mani stones, a sure sign that we are entering another of the tiny Tibetan footholds that mark the high Himalayan places. These particular mani stones were carved by stone carvers from Bihi, above Bihi Phedi, famous in the region for this craft.

Just past Bihi Phedi, you’ll begin the wonderful afternoon’s hike, trekking up steeply to the beyul, or sacred Buddhist sanctuary, of Prok, one of Kutang’s most traditional villages perched high up on a plateau amongst green fields of barley, far above the Budhi Gandaki. This village is renowned for its amchis (traditionally trained Tibetan healers, who practice a type of Chinese-Tibetan medicine), and the once kings of Nupri (see Nepali Times article) of whom Dorje Chakuri is the last in the line of descendants …

From Prok, pray to the gods for views of the sacred Shringi Himal and Ganesh Himal peaks, and get out to explore this fascinating, far-flung ethnically Tibetan village. You’ll have the afternoon to visit some local monasteries, Chokang Gompa high above the village, presided over by Rimpoche Nyima Gyalgen Lama), and stop in to visit some Prok-pas in their traditional house. During our exploratory visit to Prok in 2022, the camping group arrived just as a colorful Buddhist festival called Jhangchuk Sangmo (a Dumche festival) was in full swing, with an archery contest fueled by chang (barley beer) and raksi (grain alcohol, followed by the carrying of the Tibetan Buddhist sacred texts around the village, an incredibly symbolic and timeless event! Our friend Nyima Diki from Samdo spent several months here seeing amchis years ago, when suffering from what we later discovered to be postpartum depression.

From the Nepali Times article ‘Journey to the Mountain of the Spirit’ by Claire Burkert and Thomas Kelley: “Climbing our last mile of a long day, we pass a rock painted with an image of the great Buddhist master, Padmasambhava. A white peak of the Shringi Himal appears, lit by late light. We enter a village gateway: bright green fields spread out before us, with clusters of tall trees in spring leaf, monasteries, and stone houses beyond. A cheerful man in bare feet greets us and invites us to his home. His name is Dorje and he belongs to the royal family of Prok.

Our intuition that this village named Prok is a treasured place within a beyul, a hidden valley, is confirmed when we chat with our host that evening. It is believed that Padmasambhava, who introduced Buddhism to Tibet in the 8th century, hid many valleys called beyul throughout the Himalayan region and provided such forces as snowstorms and mist to protect them. These treasured and peaceful valleys would be discovered once the world faced destruction, hatred and lawlessness.

The stone house sheltering us (Dorji’s hotel) was once the palace of the king of the Nubri valley. Though Dorje was born a prince, he practices as the village amchi (traditional healer). His daughter Jhangchuk, schooled in Kathmandu, alternately consults as a health researcher and gathers fodder in the forest. Thomas photographs Dorje’s family altar and an image of his father, the king. Dorje shows him his scar from a bear attack and describes how the village was wracked by earthquake. He points out his photo with the Dalai Lama …  Hardships balanced out by faith: Dorje is reading his prayers when Jhangchuk guides us to a monastery that the community has reinforced with ample cement. Even though the beyul was not spared the earthquake, people here survived.” (6 ½ hrs (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.24km Elevation Gain 837m Elevation Loss 326m

Day 7 – Trek Namrung 2540m
The valley is still steep-sided and impressive as you leave in the morning, descending briefly to a metal suspension bridge which you’ll cross as we head along the undulating trail to Nupri. You switch back steeply, once climbing a notched wooden ladder, up to the small, poor village of Rana where the women usually have their looms out. After more climbing through lovely woods of pine and crossing another bridge, you’ll reach Bihi Phedi, where there is a new lodge and views of Kutang Himal. From here you will start to see very artistic mani stones (prayers etched onto wayside rocks, particularly mani stones with pictures of gods and goddesses in this region), a sure sign that you are entering another of the tiny Tibetan footholds that mark the high Himalayan places. These particular mani stones were carved by stone carvers from Bihi, above Bihi Phedi, famous in the region for this craft.

You have several more hours of ascents and descents ahead of you, twice crossing tributary streams on metal suspension bridges, staying high above the Budhi Gandaki. The walk through the gorge is breathtaking but hot, with spectacular views. Five hours past Namrung, just past a beautifully painted kane chorten and after crossing a bridge over the Budhi Gandaki, you’ll reach the outskirts of Ghap. Again, note the elaborate mani walls with Buddhas in several asanas which were carved by the famous Bihi stone-carvers, and the egg-shells strung above the local ‘tea-house’ doors in Ghap prevent the evil spirits from entering the house. Past the bridge, it’s a good half hour to reach lunch at Hotel Kyimolung.

TREK NOTE | You don’t stay at Ghap but across the Bhuri Gandaki and up steeply up for 45 minutes is the village of Chaak, where the son of the tea-house and campsite owner in Ghap lives with his family. There is a small, deserted gompa, carved mani stones (the style here is distinctly different that most other Tibetan Buddhist regions), and some Tibetans from Samdo who graze their yaks here. In the village, they will be drying their maize to grind into flour, and then trade with the people of upper Nubri. Across the river are great views of the village of Prok perched on the plateau jutting over the river below us. From Chaak, you can trek further to Kwak, and there is a trail up to Shringi Himal base camp. A fire recently destroyed the gompa at Kwak.

Soon after leaving Ghap, you ascend for two hours through a dense, cool forest of fir, rhododendron, bamboo and oaks, crossing the now narrow Budhi Gandaki twice on newly built suspension bridges, and continue to climb, often on smooth, stone steps. You might spot danphe, the national bird of Nepal, or grey langur monkeys with white faces along the trail. As you gain altitude, we reach alpine territory and are treated to increasingly broad mountain views. You eventually reach Namrung, the first village in Nubri, a region of purely Tibetan inhabitants speaking a dialect of western Tibet. Namrung is a spectacular spot when the weather is good but can be chilly if in the clouds so bring something warm in your daypack. You are now entering the Tibetan region of upper Nupri; Nupri means ‘western ridge’ or ‘western mountains’. Spend the afternoon wandering through town, passing wild roses bushes blooming with cinnamon scented flowers, lavender clemetis and wild stinging nettles along the village trails, tucked away amongst more ancient, weathered mani stones and Buddhist chortens. (B, L, D)

LODGE OPTION | You have an option to upgrade to a new luxury lodge at the start of the village, Nubri Four Seasons Resort (+ $50 Per Person).

Alternative Route – Trek Hinang Gompa 3220m
A great Himalayan trekking day heading to the remote Hinang Gompa, to the southwest of the main Manaslu trekking route, a beautiful location which sees few Western trekkers. Above Namrung, the valley opens, textured with green barley fields (and bear watches to guard them, note the bamboo structures tied with cloth in the fields at the nearby village of Banzam, bean poles with shimmering stirps to keep crows away. An hour and half of trekking along undulating trails brings you to the village of Lihi (2840m). Lihi houses two old gompas, a long village of more billowing fields of barley, also guarded by bear watches. Lihi is known for its unusual architecture which we’ll see further north in Nupri as well, apartment-like units with a common roof, and views include the massive Ganesh NW (II + III, 7118m).

Descending just past Lihi, take the left fork in the trail which leads to Himal Chuli Base Camp, and hike for about 1½ hours through lovely pine forests, following the Hinang Khola, which flows from the Hinang and Lanjam Glaciers. Hinang is a vibrant retirement village for elderly Nupri villagers, who often watch the kids as parents trek up the valley to hunt for yersta gumbu. Your guide will have to make sure the monastery is set up to take in trekkers for the evening, and if there are monks and cooks there, the accommodation will be basic, but a great experience. You’ll arrive at Hinang in time for lunch, with hiking options up the valley for views of the Hinang Glacier in addition to enjoying the incredible view of Himal Chuli right in front (north) of camp. Follow the right side of the glacial stream north in the afternoon, heading towards Himal Chuli, and sharing the trail with locals in search of yertsa gumbu. You pass several kharkas en route; it’s a long way to get to a viewpoint overlooking the glacier, but after 1½ hours of hiking uphill you reach a kharka at 3520m which seems a good stopping point.

Visit the new Drukpa Kargyu monastery (the monks from Hinang Gompa study at Namo Buddha Gompa in the Kathmandu valley in the winter, and the head abbot is the Bhutanese Khenchen Thrangu Rinpoche, and the smaller, 200-year-old Nyingma monastery perched up on the hill behind the stupa, rebuilt after the earthquake in 2015 by the abbot Lhakpa Norbu Lama. This monastery is home to about 15 nuns, and about 20 household monks. Many of the children in this valley (and in surrounding villages of Nubri) attend a school in Kathmandu sponsored by the renown Takyur Rimpoche.

In 2019 we were fortunate to arrive at Hinang during the yearly 3 or 4 day puja held at the Nyingma Gonpa. The local rimpoche related the story of the sacred Kyimolung pilgrimage circuit “Kyimolung translates as ‘dog circuit’ in the local dialect, referring to a pilgrimage route taking in Deng, Tsum and the Larkya La pass, one of Guru Rimpoche’s beyuls” (Buddhist refuges). And in 2022 we saw the last day of the same puja, with colorful and interesting lama dances, Buddhist chants, horns and cymbals and an incredible Tibetan Buddhist puja the next morning. In 2023, our camping group arrived at Hinang to find that the Nyingma Gompa had tragically burned down in an electrical fire, the only remains being the bare ‘bones’ of the 3 large Buddhist statues inside the monastery. The nuns were residing in the lower rooms and in the village, having had to abandon their accommodation at the monastery above. (4 hrs + afternoon hike) (B, L, D)
Distance: 6.8km

Day 8 – Trek Lihi, Shyo & Lho 3180m
Another wonderful and diverse trekking day awaits. Above Namrung, the valley opens out and there are extensive barley fields and bear watches to guard them (note the bamboo structures in the fields at the nearby village of Banzam). An hour and half of undulating trails later, you’ll reach the village of Lihi (2840m), a substantial altitude gain. Lihi houses two old gompas, and is spread along the trail with billowing fields of barley, guarded by more bear watches. Lihi is known for its unusual architecture which we’ll see further north in Nupri as well – apartment-like units with a common roof. From Lihi, you can head east to the newly opened village of Hinang, which also has an important gompa.

Climb gently through the village past the lodge campsite, descend to the Hinang Khola which flows from the Hinang and Lanjam Glaciers, and climb again, with views of Ngadi Himal and Manaslu north opening up aheadof us. Soon you’ll reach the kane chorten and the picturesque Tibetan village of Shyo (3000m). Shyo has a small lha-khang and two newly rebuilt gompas (with help from the Taiwanese?), one across the river. Look for the bear claw on the upper deck of one of the slate-terraced house at the far end of the village. Across the river are said to be the ruins of an old Tibetan fort as well as the resplendent new gompa. From Shyo, the views of Ngadi Chuli are spectacular, and further on, towards Lho, you are finally treated to breath-taking views of Manaslu itself, an impressive afternoon!

One more small descent out of Shyo, past a fly-blown teahouse and a small stream, and you start to climb up to Lho, a lively, green and sprawling village adorned with many prayer flags, in the yard of a small lodge just above the new chorten that was built with the help of the Taiwanese in 2009. The local household deities in Lho are called ‘pholhas’ and are revered at small altars in all of the houses.

The old small gompa is being rebuilt, and the new Nyingma Rimjung Gompa, adorned with multi-colored prayer flags on top of the hill, is worth a visit. The large gompa houses 150 monks (both novice monks and lamas) from such far away Tibetan regions as Manang, Dolpo and Bhutan. The gompa was a joint venture of these same Taiwanese and Kempo Tashi Tsering. From the guest house, sunset and sunrise are wonderful, with breathtaking views of Manaslu and Manaslu North just ahead. (B, L, D)

Day 9 – Trek Sama Gaon (Ro) 3525m | Optional Route via Pung Gyan Gompa 3780m
If the weather is clear, you’ll wake to a misty, golden sunrise and spectacular views of Manaslu and Manaslu North right from the lodge (with fabulous photos from the top of the mani walls and chortens). Leaving Lho, with the snowy peaks of Manaslu rising behind the Nyingma Rimjung Gompa, pass above the billowing green barley fields and below the monastery on the newer trail, crossing a long suspension bridge, trekking through open woods, and crossing a small stream on a wooden bridge. Ascend through light forests next to a small river until you reach a small hydro-electric hut. Heading to the right, hike up through a once dense forest of spruce (which smells just like Maine), now sadly becoming deforested. Locals from Lho and Sama Gaon have cut almost all of the large pines to transport by yak to Tibet where they are sold and other Chinese goods purchased. Hong Sangbu Gompa, near Musithang Kharka, was once a small village gompa and now dwarfed by the larger, newer gompa which will apparently be used for meditation.

Hike past an old mill where local women are often roasting barley and grinding it to make tsampa. Soon you’ll reach the high, idyllic summer settlement of Shayla, a settlement of the Lho villagers, where we’ve found pelts of blue sheep tucked away in the rafters of the modest wooden homes, and sometimes spot Himalayan thar. There are extensive mountain panoramas from Shayla, a hamlet of new lodges and old summer houses with a large, school sponsored by Takyur Rimpoche at the end of the village. Shayla is a great place to spend the night if you have extra days in hand, or if you want to visit Pung Gyan Gompa en route to Sama Gaon, a long but worthwhile day hike. (see route below).

Once past Shayla, you’ll cross two long suspension bridges over flood and land-slide scarred river junctions. The trail leads past Tibet grazing settlements, the second trail to Pung Gyan Gompa to the left, more grazing yaks, several doksas (kharkas), a large school and eventually past checkered fields of barley and potato to Sama Gaon, or Ro, as the locals call it. From the school, it’s a half an hour’s walk to Ro.

Sama Gaon sits in a bowl at the foot of the pastures leading to the high peaks. It’s a lovely village of mani walls, household monks, gompas and tightly packed rows of houses. Just above the village is the extensive Pema Choling Gompa which acts as a retirement home for many of the elders of Sama. The people settled here from Tibet over 500 years ago, and the two gompas (one in the lower village) date from this time, both having unique architecture, colorful doors and windows and built of wood. The Tibetan villages in this region of Manaslu have distinctive entrance gates (kanes), and they maintain an active trade with their co-religionists in Tibet over several high passes nearby (notice the Chinese brandy and beer for sale in the small shops). Taxes were actually paid to the Dzongka Dzong (fortress) at the border of Tibet, a few days walk from Sama Gaon, as late as the 1940’s until it was taken over by the Gorkhas in the late 19th century. Later, after 1959, the region was home to Tibetan guerrillas, and thus closed to trekking until 1992. The economy is based on farming, herding and trading.

Take the afternoon to hike up to the old Kagyu Pema Choling Gompa settlement just north of the village. This is locally called Labrang, or Lama’s place, and houses several lamas and their families as well as many nuns. The lamas and monks in Sama are all married, and there are about sixty of them. There are frequent pujas at the gompa and many prayer rooms with old murals and statues, worth at least an hour to explore. It’s also endlessly fascinating to wander the dirty alleyways of Sama, it’s stone houses with wooden decks and shingles a similar style to the ones in Lho and Lihi. Yaks and dzobkios share the narrow alleys, which have small waterways running in the middle of them and planks to bridge the two sides. If the weather is good, you will see the village women weaving wool (phal) from Tibet as well as local sheep and goat wool into lengths of fabric which eventually become chubas. We often shop for hook rugs (den) and other Tibetan artifacts in the village, a good way to interact with the villagers. Geoff Child’s ‘Tibetan Diary’ is a must-read before (or after) spending time in Sama Gaon. (B, L, D)

Optional Route | Trek Shayla 3500m, Pung Gyan Gompa 4045m & Sama Gaon 3525m
The route to Pung Gyan Gompa is a stunning hike either from Shayla or from before Lho, up a quite remote trail along the Numla Khola and the Pung Gyan glacier, past Tibetan ‘kharkas’ or seasonal herding settlements. There are unbeatable views of Manaslu from near gompa, often yaks grading on the plateau, and retreat hermitages, still used, in the cliffs just above the monastery. The gompa was mostly destroyed by an avalanche in 1953, and recently rebuilt, now adorned by Tibetan prayer flags.

Once past Shayla, you’ll be trekking through classic alpine scenery, hiking along glacial streams with iris, azaleas (in the rhododendron genus), primrose (primulas) and dwarf rhododendron (used for making Tibetan incense, along with juniper) coloring the mountain scape. After crossing two long suspension bridges over flood and land-slide scarred river junctions, take a sharp left turn just before the school and doksa at a small (marked) trail, and hike up to Pung Gyan Gompa and the backside of Manaslu. To reach Pung Gyan Gompa, you have a stunning 2-3 hour hike up a sometimes icy trail along the Numla Khola and the Pung Gyan glacier, hiking past Tibetan ‘doksas’, or seasonal herding settlements. We pass thousands of yellow and blue primrose (primulas), the leaves emitting a slightly skunky sesame smell, eventually reaching the lateral moraine of Pung Gyan glacier. We often see Himalayan thar and blue sheep along this route, grazing along the right side of the valley, and Himalayan griffon and Lammergeiers (both vultures) overhead. Looking down valley, the views over blue, glacial lakes and this massive, silt and boulder strewn glacier are sublime and otherworldly …

From the plateau, you’ll be treated to unbeatable views of Manaslu from near Pung Gyan Gompa, a monastery that was mostly destroyed by an avalanche in 1953 and recently rebuilt. See David Snellgrove’s account of the Japanese climbers from 1952-56 who angered the mountain goddess and caused the avalanche that destroyed the monastery and killed the nuns living inside. Monks from the Lho monastery sometimes meditate in the prayer flag strewn meditation caves above the monastery; one of them has been there for about 40 years we’ve been told. Locals are often grazing their yaks and naks (and adorable baby yaks) on the green plateau, staying at their doksas for a month or two. Marmots stick their heads out of their holes, and you might even spot a rare lone ibis bill at the prayer flag-marked spring just near camp. Hike a few minutes towards the glacial moraine, just behind the small pond, for a mind-blowing Manaslu panorama if the weather is clear and the mountain blesses you with her presence! 

Back down the green, flower filled glacial valley to the wide plateau, your trail leads us past Tibet grazing settlements, several doksas (where you might find a bowl of fresh yak (nak, dri) yogurt). At the end of the valley,  turn left back on the main trail and pass the large Lho school, checkered fields of barley and potatoes, and grazing yaks, and enter the large village of Sama Gaon, locally called Ro. (7½ – 8 hrs) (B, L, D)

Day 10 – Trek Samdo 3850m | via Manaslu Base Camp (Birendra Tal Lake)
Another day of spectacular Himalayan vistas as you trek past craggy woods of Himalayan birch during the walk up the valley to Samdo, an easy 3 – 3½ hours hike.

BIRENDRA TAL & MANALSU BASE CAMP HIKE | For those who want an extra excursion, you have the option to hike to the overlook Birendra Tal (lake), trekking towards Manaslu Base Camp. Once through the livestock gate, take a left turn and  head west towards Manaslu Base Camp, hiking along the grassy lateral moraine and passing two seasonal kharkas. As you hike up through the woods on a dirt trail, past birch, juniper and rhododendron, the lake opens up below and you’ll get closer to the impressive icefall of the Manaslu Glacier. You might hike up to a Guru Rimpcohe cave at 4050m meters before returning back to the valley, perhaps scaring some danphe (Nepal’s national birds) or blue sheep from their hiding spots as you descend, crossing the small stream and heading north again back on the mail trail …

Passing by the left side of the long mani walls at Kermo Kharka, continue to trek for about 2 hours, soon spotting the entrance chorten of Samdo high on a bluff. Descend to the Budhi Gandaki, which you cross a small bridge, and have a short climb to the ‘kane’ entrance of Samdo, cleansing ourselves on the way into the village. You’ll stay in the middle of Samdo, at a lodge which sometimes has Wifi, owned by Tsewang Deckyi and her husband.

The villagers of Samdo came across the border from the village of Riu in Tibet after 1959 and built their new village here, at their old herding settlement. Like the people of Ro, Samdo inhabitants are Tibetan, and were ceded the land by the king of Jumla over 500 years ago. Unlike the Ro locals, they only claimed their land after the Chinese takeover in the early 1950s. Since then they have established a trade with China and India, marketing among other things, the aphrodisiac root that grows in the region yertsagumbu. We have lots of friends in the village, and you and your guide will might be invited to visit and share some chang (Tibetan barley beer), salt-butter tea and perhaps do a bit of carpet or textile shopping. Take a walk around the village where the inhabitants live an essentially Tibetan lifestyle, herding their yaks, sheep and goats, training their horses and planting barley and potatoes. There is a small gompa in a house mid-village which we visited in a previous year where a puja was held by several of the reincarnated lamas of Samdo.

We have a long connection with a wonderful family in Samdo, one that Clint Rogers, author of ‘Where Rivers Meet’, lived with years ago. The Kamzang Fund helped Nima Dikki get over her four-year postpartum depression years ago, and we knew her husband Tsewang Gyurme well. Tragically, Tsewang Gyurme died fighting a forest fire in January 2011 (see memorial in The Kamzang Fund page) and Nyima Dikki is struggling (optimistically) to make ends meet by running a small local tea-house. We will visit Nyima Dikki’s traditional Tibetan house later in the afternoon, and all are welcome to sit by the warm fire, and try some chang, raski, salt-butter tea and local potatoes dipped in timbur (mountain pepper). The eldest daughter, Menden Samo, helped her mother run the household before she got married in 2019. Tsewang Gyurme’s sister Rita Lhamo, a beautiful, deaf woman with a warm smile, also a talented weaver, will be by to visit, as will Tsewang’s father and Nyima’s mother.

The Kamzang Fund Projects | We have a ‘Samdo Fund’ to help Nima Dikki with her life, kids and business if anyone is interested in contributing. The Kamzang Fund also helps Rita Lhamo, their parents, and Nyima Dorji (Babu) and his wife Tashi Dikki, who have a tragic story of their own. (4+ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.8 km

Day 11 – Samdo | Trek Samdo Doksa 4280m & Samdo Doksa Mesa 4355m
It’s nearly impossible to over-appreciate the sublime views of Manaslu and the surrounding Himalayan snow peaks, so we’ve scheduled an extra day to hike higher up in the Manaslu region, to a doksa about 300 meters above Samdo, amongst the slate roofs and patios of the doksa, on the trail which leads towards the Lajyung La Pass (5120m). This pass isn’t used much by locals anymore, so the upper section of trail is barely visible, but you can hike further up the valley for some awesome peak viewing, including an in-your-face view of Manaslu itself (or just enjoy the amazing mountain panoramas from camp or slightly higher up this route). 

Leaving Samdo, pass through the one street of the village and start climbing gradually, heading northeast and gaining wonderful views down to Samdo, its tilled or green fields and slate roofs below, partly obscured by the sunlight on beams of morning fire-smoke. As you ascend, the peaks to the west open up behind us and in 1½ hours we’ve crested ‘Samdo Spur’ (4235m). From left to right, the peaks are: Simrang Himal, Himal Chuli, Ngadi Himal, Manaslu, Manaslu North and Larkye Peak. To the right of the Larkye La which is just in front of us as we look northwest, we can see Cheo Himal and Kang Guru behind the pass. Two more contours to northern ridges brings us to a small, clear glacial stream and the original summer kharkas of the Lho people, now deserted and sometimes used by the Samdo-pa in the winter. The kharka huts are beautiful, with glimmering slate tiles on the roofs and slate patios.

Climb one more hill to the old cairn and head directly north up the grassy hillside to reach the idyllic ‘Samdo Doksa Hill’ (4575m). From this vantage point, you’ll have views east to the Lajyung La pass leading to Tibet, as well as over the Larkye La and at over to the Manaslu Massif. Purple and yellow primulas bloom throughout the hillsides, marmots stand on their hind legs and whistle, choughs soar and play above us, chukkars dart past us, and blue sheep roam the hillsides above. Local yaks also roam the pastures above these doksas, and more yersta gumbu camps are above. We might also see more danphe (Himalayan monal pheasants, the national bird of Nepal) as they crash through the underbrush, and often spot lammergeier and Himalayan griffon soaring high above. It’s a knee-wrenching hour-long descent back down to Samdo, and you might want to bring your lunch along with you. (2½-4 hrs) (B, L, D)

Extra Trek Day Samdo | Day Hike Rui La (Tibet Border) (5000m)
A rest, acclimatization or exploration day in this wonderful Tibetan village, tucked away below Manaslu which towers above us to the west. The sun hits Samdo early and warms the village, so get up with the sun, soak in the mountain environment and notice the early morning sunbeams illuminating the village wood-smoke. In back of the village rise the majestic peaks of Ngadi Chuli, Himal Chuli and Simnang Himal.

For those wanting to explore, it’s possible to trek up to the Rui La, the trading pass into Tibet which local Samdo-pa have been using for centuries. Bring a full day pack and warm gear as this pass at 5000 meters can be cold, and be ready for a long, strenuous day of trekking. Leaving Samdo, we take the main trail for 20 minutes and then continue north until the second major valley, turning right and switchbacking up the hillside to reach the Rui La pass, on the border of Tibet. Lizzy reports that this border now has barbed wire and a Chinese flag, but the last time we were there quite a few years ago there was only a stone marker at the actual border.

The Gya La (‘large pass’) to the north of Samdo is a more frequently used trading route to Tibet but makes for an extremely long day trip. The border markers at the top says ‘China, 1962.’ The trail up to the pass is used frequently by groups of Samdo residents with their yaks carrying timbers over the border to Tibet. True High Asia. These days the main trade is in yartsa gumbu, and Tibetan Khampas used to come for the month of June to bring this commodity back to Tibet and sell to the Chinese for a hefty profit. (Now the border is closed to Tibetans, generally). For those who want (or need) to rest, enjoy a relaxing day in Samdo, chat with the villagers, and get ready for the Larkya La pass in a few days! (8 – 9 hrs) (B, L, D)

Day 12 – Trek Dharamsala High Camp (Larkya Phedi) 4480m
You have a shorter 3 -4 hour day as you head to Dharamsala, the highest lodge site for crossing the Larkya La pass. You leave Samdo on the old trade route towards Tibet (Sherpas from the Khumbu region used to bring their yaks into Tibet and then across the Larkya La down into Nubri on their extensive trade-circuit in years past), cross a small bridge, and climb westwards above the ruins of Larkya Bazaar. The bazaar was one of the trade markets, a seasonal tented camp, that flourished years ago, before the closing of the Tibetan border. Ascending through grazing lands, open, grassy plateaus filled with dwarf rhododendron, juniper bushes and lichen-covered granite, the panoramas become increasingly awe-inspiring. You’ll soon reach the view up to Syancha Glacier on the other side of the valley which tumbles down from Manaslu & Manaslu North. The route up Manaslu is visible from one of the many spurs that we crest this morning.

Finally, you reach the developing lodge settlement at Dharamsala, the most basic and hilly of the Manalsu Circuit trek. You’ll feel the altitude and the cold here! We’re in blue sheep territory, so keep an eye out for herds of them grazing nearby on the barren hillsides. If you’ve still got energy to spare hike up either of the ridges that form the boundary of the valley, or hike up alongside the small spring-fed stream in back of the lodges and enjoy the birds, marmots and blue sheep. Either way you’ll have good views of Naike Peak to the south and the tip of Manaslu in front. Have an early dinner in preparation for our pass crossing tomorrow … (B, L, D)

Day 13 – Trek Bimtang 3590m | Cross Larkya La (5140m & 5160m) 
It will be dark as you pack up your gear in the morning and head out for the 8-hour trekking day, crossing the spectacular Larkya La to reach the Bimtang valley and the Annapurna region! Bring your trekking poles and micro-spikes; you’ll need them for the descent of the Larkya La!

After a short climb directly above the lodges, you’ll hike along the right side of the lateral moraine, soon following the narrow bottom of this valley. Look for blue sheep, pika, marmot and Tibetan snow-cock tracks in the snow, and you might be lucky and see snow leopard prints or scat. You’ll soon reach the ablation valley on the north side of the Larkya Glacier where we’ll have views of Cho Danda and Ganesh Himal l to the east and then of Larkya Peak (6250m) to the west. Continue across the often snowy, undulating moraine of the glacier, past the many snow markers, and in about two hours reach a small hut, mostly unused (4920 meters). From here you will have another two hours of ascent to reach the Larkya La pass. Continue to ascend on small ridges and past a lovely frozen lake, often through the snow, making a gradual ascent which becomes steeper only in the last section to the pass.

The views from the top of the Larkya La are wonderful, mountain panoramas equally amazing from both sides of the double pass. From the east, the direction you just hiked up, look down on Samdo Peak and the peaks bordering Tibet, and Larkye Peak to the southeast. To the west towards the Annapurna region rise Kang Guru (ridge only), Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal and a bit further down the pass the views open up to included Gyagi Kung and Annapurna II. After hanging your Tibetan prayer flags and yelling ‘Ki ki so so lha gyalo’ (may the Gods be victorious), get ready for a steep climb down a narrow ridge, followed by a switch backing, often icy descent, to a trail following the left side of the Salpu Danda glacier moraine. You might stop for lunch (packed lunch) after reaching a flat area with smooth rocks if there’s no snow, once you’ve crossed the rock fall area, or you might wait until you reach the new group of 2 or 3 lodges about an hour above Bimtang, a welcome stop! We’ve stopped at Kunsang Hotel & Restaurant although there are others.

From the start of the glacial moraine, continue to  traverse downhill with another steep section ahead, soon reaching a flatter valley full of primulas and azalea bushes. You’ll still have a good 2-3 hours to go to reach Bimtang, a boulder-strewn, circular descent. Bimtang, which means ‘plain of sand’, is the region where the Samdo people keep their yaks and horses in the summer and winter months. You’ll pass the Ponkar Lake sign (1¾ hrs to the lake) just before reaching the hamlet of Bimtang. Enjoy a chilled beer at Hotel Ponkar Mountain & Restaurant, the first on the left as you enter the hamlet, as the evening clouds gather, turning pink behind the surrounding peaks … (8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 16.4 km

Day 14 – Trek Gowa 2620m or Tilje 2300m
A chilly but beautiful morning as the sun behind the ridge hits the Himalayan peaks around you long before the lodge. Leaving the frosty grazing fields of Bimtang, you’ll climb to a ridge over the moraine and look down on the opaque, turquoise lakes below, soon afterwards descending and then crossing a boulder-strewn river, often flooded, on a wooden bridge. We ascend and then head down through open forests of brilliantly blooming rhododendron, juniper, birches and spruce past the doksas below Bimtang. En route, you might pass Samdo-pa returning from their shopping in the Manang region with their loaded horses. Butterflies flutter peacefully, hummingbirds dart from tree to tree, and white strawberry flowers and azalea bushes are underfoot as you descend through forests of rhododendron, with the west side of Manaslu opening up impressively in front of you. You’ll continue to hike along the rocky river-bed, often on trails which traverse sliding hillsides, and stop for a break at the 2 small lodges of Yak Kharka (we like the lodge on the left of the trail). You’ll follow the intersecting glacial rivers, increasingly large as we drop, and eventually cross a steel Bailey’s bridge and reach the small hamlet of Karche, where you might stop for lunch at 7 Sisters Lodge …

After lunch, you have a medium sized climb, more green fields and wild flowers, and an undulating trail as you trek past several small, green and tilled villages  a sign that we’ve reached lower altitudes. You’ll pass through the vibrant green barley fields (protected by local scarecrows) of Gowa village, where you stop for the night at the nice Nirvana Garden Inn, run by the lovely daughter Angina. You might opt to continue on another hour or so to Tilje, an interesting village of Gurung inhabitants, but a bit busier than it used to be before the earthquake and the rebuilding. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 13.2 km (Gowa)

Day 15 – Trek Tal 1860m | Annapurna Region | via Nache 2230m
You have an hour’s hike through a cultural region to reach Tilje, whose inhabitants of Tilje are a mix of Manangis, Ghale Gurung and Chettris (Hindus) so have developed a unique architecture and culture, and eat a mix of foods ranging from dal bhat and buckwheat dhiro to tsampa to Tibetan salt-butter tea. The deep gorge ahead marks the land of apple pie, cold beers and hot showers, otherwise known as the Annapurna Circuit.

Leaving Tilje, hike along a relatively easy trail following the Dudh Khola through bamboo forests, high above the river, descending towards Dharapani, an atmospheric Tibetan village with prayer flags fluttering in the wind, stopping en route at the Nyingma Tangbarang Gompa (2260m) in Thongje on the old Annapurna trail. Generally you take a higher trail and miss the last descent to Dharapani, a great, off-the-map hike up to the beautiful Gurung Nache village. The hike is a longish uphill, crossing a very long suspension bridge over an incredibly steep gorge, to reach Nache, with its green barley fields billowing in the breeze, and a small village monastery. You will find some locals or a local teahouse for a traditional lunch, and then begin a steep drop down stone steps to Marshyangdi (or Marsyangdi) River.

Trekking south on the main Annapurna Circuit trail, you soon arrive at a long suspension bridge over which you cross the Marsyangdi River to reach the small village of Karte, re-crossing it soon afterwards. You’ll continue along a high, winding, stunning cliff-side trail past several small teahouses at Khorte, and then switch backing down the steep trail before crossing the Marsyangdi River yet again. There have been many landslides over the past few years, so the bridges and number of crossings, and of course the trails, are a bit unpredictable on this short stretch of trail and road. Ahead, descend to river level and spot the wide plain and waterfall at scenic Tal, the last village of the Lower Manang region. Tal means lake, and the area here was formed when the valley was blocked by a landslide and a dam formed behind. The lake has long gone and now the village of Tal sits on the river flats.

You’ll stop for your last night of the trek at Hotel Norling, the first lodge on the left once you reach Tal. In 2022 & 2023, we reached this by crossing the river on a small, bamboo bridge instead of hiking to the end of town and crossing the large suspension bridge. You’ll celebrate your epic journey through the wilds of Manaslu this evening with the team, and get ready for a jeep ride to Kathmandu (maybe breaking for a night at Bandipur) tomorrow!  (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 15.75 km

Day 16 – Drive Kathmandu
You’ll board your private 4WD vehicle for the bumpy ride to Besi Sahar at the start of the Annapurna Circuit, followed by a good, paved road down to the Kathmandu – Pokhara Highway and on another hour to pass the Bandipur turnoff on the main highway. It is a different world leaving the Himalayan regions, with green hills, traditional villages and gentle light as you drive through the lush, semi-tropical middle hills of Nepal, following the Trishuli River. Back at the Kathmandu Guest House, enjoy a hot shower and a cold beer in the lovely garden before dinner to celebrate the end of a wonderful trek! (8-11 hrs driving) (B, L)
Distance: 250km driving

Extra Day – Split the Drive & Stay in Bandipur | The Old Inn
Bandipur is a lovely Newari village about half way back to Kathmandu, and if you have the time we highly recommend spending a night in this traditional village in one of The Old Inn’s heritage rooms!

Scenic Bandipur is a traditional Newari village, a showcase of one of Nepal’s oldest cultures, beautifully preserved high on a ridge above the road connecting Pokhara and Kathmandu. Bandipur, originally a Magar village, was later ruled by Tansen (Palpa) on the main trade route connecting Tibet in the north to India in the south, and is now a timeless yet vibrant town with lovely guest houses and cafes. You’ll arrive via the steep 8 kilometer road which winds up from the highway, far above the Marsyandi River, and check into The Old Inn, a wonderful, historic Newari boutique hotel surrounded by shops, houses, temples and community centers. If the weather is clear, you’ll be treated to snow-capped Himalayan panoramas.

We recommend a hike down to the less touristed Newari village of Dharapani just below Bandipur, and don’t miss sampling the local yogurt and lassis! There is a wonderful viewpoint just past the Hindu temple, leading to Thani Mai Temple on top of Gurungche Hill. Once up the switchback of stone steps, you’ll enjoy the vast panorama of Bandipur, the Marsyangdi Valley and the checkered fields of the villages in the valley below, especially beautiful at sunset. The hotel has an incredible deck overlooking the forested hillsides, and a good buffet (dinner not included in Bandipur) to top off a great day. You might opt to head out and try another restaurant for dinner after a sundowner beer at The Old Inn.

Some options for a longer stay in Bandipur: Bandipur Bageshwori Peak is about 10 km from Bandipur, an option to visit with the jeep if discussed with the driver beforehand. Siddha Gufa, the largest cave in Nepal, is a half day’s hike from Bandipur, and another half-day hike takes you to Ramkot, a traditional Magar village known for its thatched-roof roundhouses. (B)
Distance Driving: 90.38 km

Day 17 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA 
Transport to TIA Airport for your flight home. Namaste!

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Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

Dates
Custom Departures
17 Days

Trek Price
$2980
+ Price based on 2+ Trekkers
+ Single Upgrades Available

Lodge Upgrades
+ Single Upgrade Lodges – $375 (Subject to Availability)

Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades 
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

Includes

• Kathmandu Guest House
• Airport pick-ups & drops
• Group transportation by private vehicle
• Manaslu Concervation Area Permit, Manaslu National Park Permit & Annapurna Conservation Area Permit
• Lodge/Teahouse accomodation & meals
• Nepali guide & porter(s)

Excludes

• Insurance (travel & medical)
• Nepal Visa
• Rescue Service (cost)
• Meals in Kathmandu
• International flights to/from Nepal
• Equipment rental
• Alcohol & soft drinks
• Laundry
• Tipping and other items of a personal nature.

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $300 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

Trip Advisor Reviews

Client’s Comments
Thank you so much for all of the effort, help and patience that you put in to make the trek special for us.  We had such an amazing experience, and we will always have such incredible memories that we will remember for the rest of lives.  It was truly an experience of a lifetime! I was so impressed with your whole operation; I don’t know how you juggle it all.  You are not only an amazing operator, pulling all the levers, but you are a gifted guide which makes the trip truly special for everyone.  Also, your attention to detail is impressive, you can tell you put a lot of thought into how to make the whole experience as comfortable and pleasurable as possible.
– Rob B (USA), High Manaslu Trek

‘Kim’s support team are uniformly excellent, and all pitch in to ensure a smooth operation and to make sure that you are OK at all times. The equipment is all top-notch and the food is very, very good. In addition, the smaller, more “informal” style really promotes interaction between members of the group and the guys helping out, which is a rare thing. They are all really friendly, down-to-earth people and have a great deal of knowledge about the trekking regions, local history and customs, and are very happy to answer any questions you have. A good measure of the success of these trips is the number of returning trekkers and climbers that choose them again and again for their holidays. I’d have to say that every trip I’ve made with them has been a really special experience. Suffice to say, not once have I been tempted to join any other trekking group.
– Beau M, High Manaslu Trek

Simply the best! I cannot recommend Kim and her Kamzang Journeys team highly enough if you are looking for trekking experts in Nepal, India and Tibet. The High Himalaya are Kim’s playground and she is expert at sharing her enthusiasm and knowledge with her groups. I have been trekking with them since 2007, and each year I return enthused and excited because I just know it is going to be so much fun. Kim is completely professional setting her itineraries to make sure her clients acclimatize properly, she never skimps on staff so you can go at a pace that suits, and the food is the best I have ever had while hiking. Unlike many companies, Kim has a core group of excellent guides and kitchen crew, there is no single supplement, her gear is always the best, and Kim and Lhakpa’s personal leadership ensures local interaction along the way, almost as if we were visiting old friends. And for sure you will make new friends with your fellow trekkers in Kim’s famous Tibetan dining tent, the social hub of the group. This trek with Kim and Lhakpa was the best of the ten or so we have done in the Indian subcontinent. No detail was overlooked, making for a camp that was the envy of other groups! Kim’s ability to engage with local villagers added another dimension to our experience as the locals invited us to join them in their schools, homes and daily tasks. The food was imaginative, well-presented and plentiful, and served with a smile. Kamzang crew were unfailingly helpful and generous with their time, responding to individual needs as far as possible. An experience not to be missed!
– Marian D (New Zealand),  GHT | High Manaslu, Annapurnas & Upper Mustang Trek + more

I have been with Kim and her crew on four separate treks into the Nepal Himalayas. Each one has been unique, exciting, challenging, and totally amazing. Kim has the best crew around and they provide a comfortable camp and great food. I would highly recommend Kim, Kamzang Journeys and her group.
– Allan B (USA), High Manaslu Trek + more

Read More Testimonials
Trekker’s Comments

• Manaslu Circuit with breathtaking Himalayan panoramas
• Ganesh Himal range
• Laprak & Barpak Gurung villages (optional)
• The Larkya La pass (5400m)
• The Tibetan region of Nubri
• The mixed Tibetan & Gurung inhabitants of Kutang
• Tibetans of Samdo & Sama Gaon villages
• Tibetan Buddhist gompas (monasteries)
• Manaslu Base Camp (lake) day trip
• Incredibly diverse scenery and cultures
• Spectacular Himalayan views & great side-trips

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip + Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Online Articles + Films on Manaslu + Tsum
Soul Mountain – Nepali Times

Spirit Mountain – Nepali Times

Ramble to Manaslu – The Himalayan Times

Home Away form Home in Tsum– Nepali Times

In the Mountain of the Soul – Nepali Times

Academic Article on Manaslu – Nepali Mountaineering Association

Manaslu Avalanche – BBC

Unmistaken Child  – Film on Tsum Valley

Nupri Women’s Health Training – Video by Nepal SEEDS (Geoff Childs)

Lower Tsum Clinic – Video by Nepal SEEDS (Geoff Childs)

Kami Kids in Sama Gaon School – Video by Nepal SEEDS (Geoff Childs)